Wood Turning NEW Bowl from Board Cutting Jig 2.1 READ UPDATE
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- Опубліковано 1 жов 2024
- UPDATE
(One thing I meant to mention is using a piece of HDPE is an option for the wood piece in this jig.)
I was ask to show how I made my cutting jig for a bowl from a board.
I showed how I made it and also showed how one can be made without metal working machines.
I purchased the Nova Modular Tool Post and Nova Box Rest:
www.amazon.com...
Both items show up on this page.
You can also get a Robert Sorby version. You need to get the one that fits your banjo.
Robert Sorby parting tool with handle:
taytools.com/c...
Robert Sorby Micro Parting Tool blade only. This is what I bought.
taytools.com/p...
I bout everything on Amazon.
If you decide to make one of these you are responsible for how it is built and how you use it.
If you found this video entertaining
Please Like and Subscribe and Share if you are inclined
The video is for entertainment purposes only
You are watching how I do things and not suggesting others should do it the way I do.
You need to know your machines and how to use them. Follow how the manufacture says to use them safely.
Look up other turnings I have done:
Dizzy Twister Turnings Segmented Turnings
Feature Rings Staves
20 minute bowl
Great gift or a craft show sales
Star bowl Block bowl
Tumbling bowls Emerging Bowls Black Locust Vase
Droop Bowl Offset Bowl Barrel of Blocks Star Bowl Bowl in a Bowl
Droop Bowl Lathe modifications Lacquer Shellac Friction Polish
Abrasive Paste Polishing Paste Wipe on Poly Black Locust Hollow Form
Multi Axis Square Bowl Siberian Elm Hollow Form
Dodecahedron Soccer Ball Sphere Olive Wood Turnings Illusions Segmented Vase
Tangent Stave Turning
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No board will be safe from the lathe now, Gary! Can just see all the 1x material cowering in the corner every time you walk into the shop! And now it's spreading to your students, professor and their boards are cowering. I hope you are proud of yourself young man! LOL!
Well done, my friend, very well done! And now, I see you've put out a bonus video this week. Sheesh, what an overachiever! I'll be on my way over to see what is what with that little gem! 😊
Phil
Well everything in my shop is hiding. I can't find half my tape measures and only one of the 100 pencils out there. And I think my table saw is buried under a pile of lumber LOL.
The bonus was to make up for all the assignments I didn't get done in school! And that's the truth LOL.
Thanks all the smiles I got from you comments my friend.
Take care,
Gary
Hello my friend,
good tool. I see you are doing a good job. Thank you for the introduction and detailed information. see you later. All the best.
Thanks so much and thanks for watching.
Take care,
Gary
Denis merci beaucoup. Je vous remercie de regarder et de commenter.
Gary
One thing I meant to mention. I would use HDPE plastic instead of wood. I just did not have a piece around at the time.
I add my thanks as well to those below. This covers everyone that might be interested in bowls from boards. It doesn't get any simpler than that. Many many bowls can be made very easily and if one should wear the wood part out, just make another one. The steel won't wear. I thoroughly enjoy your videos and I hope you keep them up for as long as you can. Regards, and stay safe!
Thanks so much! I meant to add the option of using HDPE which will last a long time.
I plan on lots more videos. But today we planted a large arborvitae and after that I might have to rest for a half a day!
Thanks for watching,
Gary
I hope this is not too long. I mad a jig and to test it I ran to Home Depot and picked up a piece of pine 3/4" x 10" x 4'. I made rings for two bowls with 9" circles. I must say the rings came out perfect. I have glued one set up, no turning yet. This may be the last rings I cut with this iteration of the tool. After four plunging cuts the wood portion of the tool is wallowing out. Silly me, I used pine I had in the garage. The good part is that before making the ring cutting jig I set up a jig on my belt sander at 27 degrees so this will make redoing the tool easier. On making the first tool the belt sander assured that the angle on the box rest and wood were identical. I used a 60 grit belt to shape the rough saw cuts on the wood and a 36 grit belt to totally shape the box rest (no sawing at all). It went smooth, but a mask is advised. I plan on replacing the wood with aluminum. I purchased a piece of 1-1/4" x 1" x 3-5/8" for only $6.31. The block of aluminum is the perfect size for me I will not have to change it in the least. I will have to shape the aluminum and I have it in my mind that I can do it using a drill, hack saw, file, and belt sander. I am feeling pretty confident about that part. What I wonder about is how I will cut the kerf as a hack saw only gives me .033" which is short of what I need for a 1/16" parting tool. I do not think a needle file will be healthy enough for the job. So let me ask you to throw out any ideas you may have to cut the kerf. Should I be looking for someone that can mill it as that should be a small job once everything else is done. I really do not know if a router or die grinder (Dremel) would be an option. I would love to hear your thoughts and let me say thank you. Thank you for making the information available. I have just had a grand time the past week thinking about how I would approach this project and then actually following through. It is joy I derived from your kindness of sharing.
There are a few things that might be a good option. Using HDPE plastic the slot should last a long time. Or another plastic like that.
For the aluminum a hacksaw would be a start and the maybe a carbide coated hacksaw blade.
Or maybe a cutting wheel or bit on a Dremel tool i That should follow the hacksawed kerf. If you do not have a Dremel you could use a drill. Cordless or corded.
So I think you should be able to get a slot in the aluminum.
Let me know if that makes sense and if you have any other questions.
The people that share their knowledge so readily are a special breed. You are a great ambassador for the turning world Gary!
Thanks so much Todd, I appreciate your comment. Watch for a short video in the middle of next week. Another request I have gotten around to doing. Then of course a new video that Friday as welll.
Take care,
Gary
Thanks very much for sharing this and all your other videos. I’ve been meaning to try your bowl-from-a-board technique since I first saw this last year. I finally got around to making the jig and a Sorby clone parting tool (from a reciprocating saw blade).
I cut an inch off of the 5 inch Nova tool post because I have the Laguna 12/16 lathe (12 swing). I had to shorten the post anyway to make it work with the Nova modular tool rests I have. So no extra work. To the best of my knowledge Nova the shortest 1” diameter post Nova makes is 5”. I guess most midi-lathes use a ⅝ diameter post.
Very nice Dave.
Let me know how it goes.
Gary
Hi Gary. I'm new to turning and have enjoyed your videos. The jig/fixture you made is fantastic. I will be making one. One thing: have you thought of patenting the design. Gary's tool ferry. HA! Thanks for sharing your ideas and work.
Thank you Mike. I suppose I could have tried to get a patent on it but it is just a way go guide a tool and I am sure other things have been made on the same idea. I did have someone decide to make and sell them. I am ok with that but making it seem like he came up with the idea does not sit well. Just my opinion is it is too clunky and hard to use.
Mine is simplistic at its best.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Well done. What has been your experience with a 60 deg bowl?? I am going to try 3d Printing the part. Since you have a good CAD system you should try 3d printing some one off parts. FLsun has a $200 delta style 3D printer this is a great piece of equipment. Model Q5.. Great work and great presentation.
Thank you Hamp,
I have two 3D printers and I have printed many things for wood turning with them.
If you watch this video at 3:12 of the video you will see a 3D printed version of my cutting jig.
ua-cam.com/video/bGcRLGWMn5c/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ThePapa1947
I put the files on TinkerCad as well.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
I too am thrifty (cheap) Gary. I've expanded a bit on your idea. I used 1" steel bar stock (Amazon) and 1.75 x 1.75 X 5 oak block (tree). I made a "T" ...forstner bit & epoxy. Then I cut the guide mortise tool guides at a variety of angles, along the block. The oak block is setup parallel to the work piece. Thank you for the idea. Oh, and I made the parting tools from HSS tool blanks (Amazon). Easy & cheap!
Thank you Louis! Always nice talking ideas with another thrifty(cheap) person.
You have an excellent design as well.
Take care,
Gary
Excellent detailed instructional video. I am planning to make one. I have a newbie question, how do you attach the board to the chuck? Using screw? Wood block? Thank you.
Thank you very much. With these I normal hot glue a premade tenon to the bottom. Doing that again today. I will make sure I show it.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
I guess I did not realize the handle diameter would be all that important if I have clearance I did not think it would matter if the clearance is 1/8" or 1". That being said my handle max diameter is .890" or which equals 57/64". On another note I received my box rest and it appears to me if I am going to screw a wood block to it I would be best to use #4 screws in the back., one on each side of the gusset. In the front one #4 or possible one #6 after I file the gusset level to the platform - sound about right?
The handle I made is 1" gas line pipe so what you have is close enough to that. And I did make mine with the least amount of clearance needed. So 1/8" is fine. The screw in the front sounds good and making a flat spot is a good Idea.
I would feel comfortable with the screw in front.
And a few options that I would feel comfortable in doing for the back end:
Really good double sided tape should keep it from twisting.
A small hole maybe 1/8th inch drilled through the back end of the wood and just a little into the center of the back end of the metal piece. This will also keep it from rotating.
I did not check for clearance but there might be room for a screw coming up from above the tapped hole that the post goes into? The screw I used going up the thin end of my piece only goes in about 3/16" to keep it from twisting.
Lots of options for doing this.
Epoxy will work for the whole thing but would need to heat the metal to swap out the piece.
I left all these option off the video to keep it simple. You have good understanding of what is going on so I thought I would mention these.
Gary
Hi Gray this Michael Barsamian. Trying to send a picture of the cutter blade from Amazon. Not having the best luck attaching the two photos. If you have an email address please attach. Thanks Mike
Thank you Mike. If you go to my About Page using a PC you can find my email.
Other wise if you give me yours I will be happy to respond to it.
I get a lot of spam from auto bots if I leave it out in the open here.
I will await your response.
Gary
Really, really nice tool or jig you made, but I've to say, i'm so glad the most of us Europeans use the metric system, . . .!
Thx for sharing anyway 😎💪👊
Glad you like the tool jig.
As far as the metric system goes I am happy that you have it and find it easy to use.
I had no choice in the matter. I was born with the system we use. I learned it and know it very well. And used it at work everyday.
We would get drawings in metric and had to have special metric shirnk rules for making those patterns. Or convert the dimensions to something that could be understood.
When I get comments in another language I use a translator to read them and then I reply in the same language.
Not all that hard to do.
Sorry my dimensions do not work for you but I would be happy to convert them for you.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Papa, I just finished making my jig. My platform was shorter and not as wide but it didn't matter. I tapped a 8-32 thread both in the wood and metal platform and used machine screws. I would send some pictures but I don't know how to do it with UA-cam. However, the more important thing is to say thank you for producing this video. It was a great help. John von
You can find my email in my About Page
Great video Gary! Couldn't you make the whole thing out of wood or maybe plastic? Take care and GOD BLESS 🙏!
Thanks Stephen, I would not recommend making the shaft out of wood. I see issues with fastening it in place.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thank you for showing all that. And figuring all that out. I am going to make one of those myself. I am betting I will need to get a similar parting too like you gave. Mine is 3/16" thick and about 3/4" high. I am thinking that will bind up in the cuts ?
Thank you John! I would agree your parting tool sounds a bit oversized for cutting rings on an angle. You just would not have the clearance needed for the tool.
Best of luck,
Gary
Great idea for B from B. Do you happen to have the 3D drawing available for the aluminum block you did for the all aluminum jig?
Thank you very much. I do have the profile drawing of the block. How are you planning on making it?
You can find my email in my about page. Send a email and let me know what you are looking for. Be sure to mention ring cutting jig in the subject.
Gary
THANK YOU for this excellent video, I'll be making this jig in the near future
Thank you Daniel. Happy you enjoyed the video.
Take care
Gary
That was a very interesting video Gary and it gave me some food for thought.
Cheers mate, Bram
Thank you Bram, happy you enjoyed it.
Cheers my friend,
Gary
Your instructions are clear the board width and length will be determined by the box rest platform size. The height of the board will be determined by the depth of the parting tool and handle combination in order to allow clearance for a deeper plunge with the parting tool. I have ideas and am sure I can make this work, but I am not trying to reinvent the wheel so I am going to ask that you please share the height of the board you used. It will make things easier for me as I will be using the same parting tool you use and I doubt my handle can be any larger than yours as I have a Sorby micro handle. Once again I thank you!!
Happy my information on how I made mine was clear.
I have the Sorby Micro parting tool blade. I did not buy it with a handle and what you are seeing it hooked to is a metal handle that I can change tools out in.
I started with a wood block that was 1.125" tall. I removed .75" leaving a flat end that was .375" thick. From the very top of the end piece I cut a slot that was .25" deep .5" below the slot to the tail end of the piece which is .375" thick.
Not having the Sorby Micro parting tool with a handle I am not sure what those dimensions are.
If you told me the maximum diameter of that handle I could tell you the dimensions you need.
Hope that helps.
Gary
Another excellent video thanks Gary and happy Christmas and healthy new year
Charlie
Thank you Charlie and a Merry Christmas to you as well.
Gary
Thank you so much for this info. I'll be making one soon. Truly awesome of you to not only show your bowl cutting technique but to dedicate a video on making the jig itself. Thanks again!!! 👍🏾
Thank you Greg, I enjoyed making it for the people who asked for the video and for all those who watching it.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
I really enjoyed this video you could show more of your homemade jigs and tools I'm interested and I don't even turn wood
Thank you Bill, as a matter fact there is a very short mid week video coming.
Take care,
Gary
Love your inventions Gary. I'll be making one. Thanks.
Thank you Tom. When you make the top piece that is the guide use some HDPE plastic or another plastic instead of wood.
I wished I would have had a piece when I did this one. But the wood worked for demo purposes.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Is the parting tool point contacting the wood at the center line? This is another excellent video, thank you.
Yes for sure right on the center line. I think I said that in the previous version of this. Thanks for asking.
Gary
Enjoyed watch this, even though it's above my pay grade!
Thank you Joe! Being retired it is WAY above my pay grade as well.
Thank you Gary for your sharing of most valuable information..sure made my day easier devising the guide. Most appreciated. I tried the wood guide for the parting tool in your earlier videos. The idea worked great!!! my mistake was in using a slightly larger (height-width) parting tool. A slight disaster..the tool broke sending a section of the tool into the face shield..I tool was a thin diamond shape...which the quality must have been poor. Hence, made a purchase of HSS in 2mm thickness by 8mm height, placed into a new holder. This video is just what I needed to complete the cutter unit.. Thank you again Gary
Thank you very much Michael. The wide parting tools have been an issue. I actually made a drawing to show what size I needed to not bind up. That is how I ended up with what I have.
What you have now should be great.
Do you have a link to where you got the steel? I would love to have a look at it.
Thanks,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 thank you for sharing your knowledge and experiences. I found the HSS cutter blank on Amazon. 2mm x 8mm x 200mm in length ..in a 5 pack. I'm not at home so in the process of making a temp handle/holder til I return and devise a better setup. I will send a picture shortly.
Gary, very nice. Thanks for sharing, added to my list to make.
Thank you John and thanks for watching.
Gary
Beautifully explained Gary. It seems to me you did lose your marbles this is a Woodworking Channel LOL 😂 . You are frugal like me brother 👍🏽 I like the one you made with aluminum 🤔
Thank you Habeeb, I lost those marbles many years ago. This is all that keeps me sane! LOL
Frugal...very kind of you to put it that way 🤣
Take care,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Don’t feel bad brother. I lost mine long time ago 😂 lol.
Excellent instruction video thank you very much
Thank you very much. Happy you enjoyed it.
Gary
Gary, what parting tool do you use to cut your ring?
Thanks…
Hi Dave, I have the Sorby Micro Parting tool.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Wow thank you so much for this info. I will make one of my own, I love you work,
Thank you Michael, I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Gary
Thank you Gary very good info
Will make one pierre
Thank you Pierre I appreciate you watching.
Gary
Your video was very kind of you to do. Thank you very much!
Thank you Mike, happy you enjoyed the video.
Take care,
Gary
Gary when turning an economy patterned bowl how critical is iit that the inner diameter of one Ring matches the diameter of the ring below it? if they don't match will the pattern be discontinuous? Hopefully I have explained it well
The pattern will generally line up. It is important that the rings are concentric to each other. Matching the diameter makes it easier but I have done plenty where the diameters did not match but the pattern does. What I do is look at it as 4 places to line up. So looking down I line up front to back and then do side to side. I also flip it over and double check side.
Great question and the next time I do one I will point that out.
Let me know if that answers your question.
Take care,
Gary
Thanks I'm going to try one this weekend. If it turns out I will send you a picture. Otherwise you won't see it 🙂
I find this very interesting I have hard making things like mainly because I don't really understand angles an math but love making things
Thanks Henry!
@@ThePapa1947 you are so welcome
Thanks for the info I'm going to try your idea so thanks again 😊
Thank you Bret I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Gary
THANK u so so much very simple to make.
Thank you Manjit, yes it should be very easy.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
It looks like your parting tool has been modified to
I only bought the blade for this tool. They sell the blade for their modular setup and I have made a couple handles that I use for other tools that I made. You can buy it with a handle as well. But it seems a little on the short side.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Sou brasileiro, tenho 67 anos e estou começando na Tornearia, após me aposentar. Adoro seus trabalhos e esse Jig é fantástico. Se puder, diga-me qual a espessura do seu formão de corte e largura da lâmina. Grato,
Orlando Araújo.
Muito obrigado. A ferramenta de separação que estou usando tem 1/4 de polegada de altura e 0,07" de largura. É uma ferramenta de Robert Sorby.
Se você procurar por isso, você pode encontrá-lo.
Ferramenta de micropartição Sorby 865H, 1/16 pol.
Você também pode comprar apenas a lâmina e fazer sua própria alça.
Obrigado por assistir,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 agradeço imensamente sua gentileza. Felicidades.
This comment is about character, not woodworking. Gary, I appreciate your generous spirit. You created something we can all use and not only gave the idea away but also took the time to make a video to show us how we can make one without metal woodworking tools. You really went the extra step, or mile!
Thank you Josh for your kind words. I am happy this video has a lot of interest. I was not sure but made it because of many request.
Thanks for watching and your comments.
Gary
I made your jig using plastic as you suggested, and I bought the Robert Sorby mini parting tool. I’d add a photo, but I don’t see how to do that in a comment. My first two attempts to use it ended badly. I started with an 8-3/4” dia disk of mahogany 1-1/2” thick and set the jig at 45 deg. The tool cut about 1-3/8” into the disk and then jammed, stalling the lathe, and ripping the tool from the handle. I noticed that a the steel blade was only in the handle about 3/4”, which I thought was way to little for the forces on the parting tool. I’m about to give up on this, but I first wanted to ask you two questions: 1) is there a thickness limit on the disk? I.e. was 1.5” too thick? And 2) Can this bowl-from-board technique be done with a 1/8” parting tool which would be better able to withstand the force?
I would not go over 1" thick boards. The cut length on your 1.5 inch board would be 2.125 inches on a 45 degree angle. That is way to much for the Sorby tool You would get a lot of heat build up and for sure it could a good chance of it jamming. The RPM can play a part in that as well. I try to stay around 600 RPM.
Yes a 1/8" parting tool will be better but it will also get hot in that thick of a board.
I would try 1 inch thick boards(that is perfect for a bowl from a board.
Even 3/4" will work fine.
I mention using the thinner board in my videos and have said much thicker makes it harder to do.
Try thinner boards and depending on the height of the 1/8" parting tool it could bind easier. Depending on how small the rings get. That is why I use the thinner blade.
Hope this helps,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Thank you, thank you. I'll get a new 1/16" tool (the catch/jam I described bent the first into a pretzel) and stick to thinner boards and lower the speed to under 600.
Thanks for the update. I know the tool is thin but to cut the smaller rings without binding it is all I could get to work. And it works fine.
Do not force your cut and I pull it out to clear the chips and a few times on each cut.
Need to Patent it and sell the Patent for residual income on each sale.
Thank you that is a good idea!
If you patton it it separates you from manufacture
Thank you Bill, that is a good idea.
Thanks for sharing. Great job explaining how you can make this useful tool. Hope you have a good weekend. Full View and Like 👍
Thank you Allen, I appreciate you taking time to comment and thanks for watching,
Gary
Does this tool works on 2 inch lumber as well?
With a long enough party tool it can.
Really good - Thanks Gary for sharing
Thank you Brian and thanks for watching,
Gary
Thank you Gary for sharing your skills and knowledge. You're a great teacher! 👌
Thank you very much for your kind words my friend!
Take care,
Gary
I tossed Nova some dollars today going to try to make one.
Let me know how it goes and thanks for watching.
Gary
How good is that. Thank You Chief 🙏
Thank you Michael!
Papa 1947 I take full responsibility for my build and use of this idea that you shared with our turning community, I just do not have the vision for these ideas. I also love watching Shady Acre's as I am 2.5 hours North of Phil. Both of you guys have Great Presentation presents, Great Job. I do have some HDPE on hand. R/ Sam I
Thank you Sam.
I think HDPE is perfect for a guide block.
I am about 2.5 hours south of Phil. Looking forward to the video he is putting out today.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
Good explanation Gary. Very helpful. I will continue to use version 1.0
👍Frank.
Thank you Frank, yes 1.0 works just fine!
Take care,
Gary
After wallowing out my pine version of this jig I am on an aluminum version. I thought I would offer some comments and thoughts here for others that might want to pursue aluminum using basic tools. First the post was easy to drill and tap using my 12” wood turning lathe. Having a ⅝ collet made it real easy. However, if I do another jig I will consider drilling thru both pieces and using a grade 8 bolt to clamp the two pieces together. Only saying grade 8 to allow for maximum torque. After spending hours outlining the jig with drilled holes, connecting the holes with a hacksaw, filing (serious filing), and belt sanding I had a good solid jig that only needed the kerf put in. Not wanting to mess up the hours of work I had put into the project I consulted a machine shop thinking they were going to hang the phone up and tell me to get lost. Instead they took on the project of putting the kerf in by way of a milling machine and charged me one hour labor ($60). Once I had the finished product in hand and cut six rings I knew I made the right decision. I do not believe that I could have achieved the same quality with a hacksaw or die grinder, a better man might have got it done. For what many of us spend on our lathes and tooling $60 certainly won’t break the bank. Oh, I purchased both pieces of aluminum for $12. I used a 1-½” x 1” x 3-⅝” block. And a ⅝” x 4” round. The finished product looks like a little boat on a post similar to the one you made of wood, except I did not use the Nova box rest. Thank you once again for sharing your ideas which made it possible for me to comment here.
Thank you for letting me know how you did it. I think you came up with an excellent option.
The other option that I should have mentioned in the video was use a piece of HDPE plastic for the piece instead of wood.
Having a milling machine makes it easy to make mine from metal and aluminum makes works great.
Having a band saw also allows you to cut aluminum on a wood cutting band saw. I have got a lot using a 1/4 or 3/8 skip tooth blade. But those are good quality blades I bought at a local saw shop. They make the length to fit what you need. They are the same or less than the ones you can buy from a wood working store or online.
Nice job of using the basic idea using the tools you have and thanks for sharing it.
Gary
Thanks for your detailed videos on your methods of making a bowl from a board. I'd made several but only using straight 45* angles and was tired of the look of the straight funnel bowls. Using the different angles offers a new area to explore.
I made your jig using materials I had on hand, 1" OD aluminum tube and a piece of 3/4" OD aluminum bar that nicely fit into the tube. Drilled and tapped the end of the 3/4" to take a 1/4-20 bolt, epoxied the rod into the tube and then formed the top piece from some un-named but very hard and dense tropical hardwood.
Worked as expected but I found that my first effort was more work parting than I'd hoped.
My 1/8" parting tool has no flare at the tip so I got a lot of heat build up in the tool from friction in the parting cut and had to sharpen several times. Maybe pushing too hard. I do tend to do that. And the final cut through had quite a bit of exit splintering.
Perhaps I should explain that I used an assortment of small cut offs that yielded a blank that was 1 1/8" thick and made almost exclusively of some very dense wood such as pau marfim ( Brazilian maple ).
What thickness blank do you normally use? I'm assuming 3/4" but could be wrong in that.
Are your woods particularly hard?
What speed do you use? I was running around 650 RPM. The bland was 12 1/2" OD at the start.
Part of my problem may be expecting more than is reasonable. Another part might be the thickness of the blank or the wood choice. Or if it's not those it may just be operator error. Need more practice.
Any light you can shed from your experience would be appreciated.
Again, thanks for your videos. I do enjoy watching what you do.
Hi Randy, sounds like what you made will do the trick. A lot like the I use now.
So it does sound like you might be pushing a bit hard and turning a little fast for the real hard wood.
I use a variety of wood. None are what I would consider extra hard. I would say Purple Heart being the hardnest.
Most of my boards are around 15/16 the way I purchase them. When you start cutting angles the cut gets much farther than that.
I tend to pull the tool out a few times during the cut to clear the cut and let the tool cool down. On the harder wood I may touch the edge up again with a diamond card just to get another burr on it. Once a burr is gone you are no longer cutting.
Hope that helps and if I missed something let me know.
Gary
thanks Gary great information as usual three different way to make it just brilliant thanks again
Thanks you Daemon and thanks for watching.
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 I've ordered the nova post and robert sorby box scraper rest and I will let you know how I get on
Simple, easy built thank you
Thank you Larry and thanks for watching,
Gary
Hi Gary,
Really appreciate your video. I picked up some aluminum remnants from my local metal supply and look forward to building the jig. I didn’t know Nova had these parts... thanks for telling us all.
I have a follow up question - you usually use 3/4 stock for your ring bowls. Can you use thicker stock? I have a nice piece of 8/4 Clark walnut 14” wide that I think would make a nice bowl. Any advice on cutting angles for a curving surface, or should I reference the video you showed ring jig 1.0?
Hi Skip, thanks for watching and aluminum will work fine. I will continue to use the aluminum one that I have and keep the other for its intended use.
So maybe you ask about the 8/4 before and if you did I am sorry for not answering. I could not find the question later that day when I was going to answer.
So yes you could do 8/4 but it will be a very long cut and things will get hot. As a matter of fact to cut a 45 on a 2 inch piece the cut would measure 2.8284 inches long. I like to keep the boards 1.25 inches thick or less.
But if you have a nice parting tool you could do it with 2 inch thick. But you will be making a very tall bowl or one with very thick walls.
And yes check out the video I did on making curved walls on a bowl from a board.
ua-cam.com/video/0zJlsPsNKxM/v-deo.html&ab_channel=ThePapa1947
Let me know if you have any questions.
Take care,
Gary
Very cool, simple jig Gary. Thanks.
How do you decide what angle you want to cut your rings at? Are there advantages to, say, 45 over 50 and so on?
Thank you, A 45 will give you a much steeper side wall where as a 50 or 55 will make a flatter wall. But the 55 will also end up making a smaller base if you are not careful. If you use a combination of the angles you can get a little curve on the walls.
Hope that helps explain your question. If not let me know.
Gary
So interesting. Thanks for sharing 🌞
Glad you enjoyed it Ray and thanks for watching.
Gary
Gary, you are such a great help to your audience and so kind to share your knowledge and info on how to make your jigs. You have been a big help to me. Thanks!
Thank you very much Carol. Happy you find them useful.
Take care,
Gary
What a great informational video! Step by step and easy to follow. Thank you so very much for sharing this how to video!
Your Florida friend, Dotty ❤️ 😎 🙃
Thank you Dotty, Happy it was helpful.
Gary Oregon where we have a different ocean than yours.
Hi Gary, thanks for showing your jig. I'm new to woodturning (I started this year) and I have joined a club and attended many courses. I'm really enjoying the woodturning experience, and I'm learning a lot from the courses and other members, and of course videos like yours. I have also been doing metal fabrication and machining for quite a long time. I plan to make a jig like this but I have questions about the woodturners parting tools. At the club we use the diamond shape parting tools. I have also seen the flat sided parting tools, where you cut an extra bit on the side for relief to reduce binding. Both of these types of parting tools have a point at the tip (negative rake), and this is where I get confused. When using a parting tool on the metal lathe, the tool is flat on the top (neutral rake), and you set the top of the tool at dead center on the work. These parting blades are typically tapered (wider at the top) to provide relief for the tool when parting material. The questions I have are:
1) Why are a lot of woodturners parting tools pointed with negative rake?
2) Would a parting tool from a metal lathe work on wood when cutting on dead center?
Good morning and thanks for watching.
I have not a lot of metal work myself. I have a small metal lathe and a full sized Bridgeport CNC mill.
The parting blades I use on my lathe are just like you talked about. And yes that shape will work on wood as well.
I would say the diamond shaped parting tool for wood is that way to clear the chips. There are more coming out and coming out faster when cutting wood. Also I think that negative rake shape will help with the tool catching.
The important thing for me when cutting on an angle for the rings is having a shorter in height tool.
I spent a lot of time on my CAD program drawing those cuts and have settle on a tool that is 1/4 inch tall and .08 inches wide. Looking at the kerf made I find the best clearance when getting down to the smallest ring being cut.
Many have tried tools that are 3/4 inch tall. They work fine for cutting at 90 degrees to the work. But as soon as you make an angle cut for the rings there is no clearance at all.
I think as a metal worker you can understand all of this.
Also I make all my cuts dead center with any the parting tool I use when cutting the rings.
Hope this helps and let me know if you have any other questions.
Gary
I've been trying to get away from the static 45 degree side in a typical economy bowl. Can you use this jig to vary the angle on each ring to get a softer curve on the outside?
Never mind, You answered this in the previous video!
No problem!
Thank you gary i made and works perfect.thank you for teaching us.if you like to see what i made please give me your email address.
Thank you Michael. You can find my email in my About page. Or just give me yours and I will respond to it.
I would love to see what you made.
Gary
Thanks Gary. Very helpful.
Thanks Victor and thanks for watching.
Gary
Hi Gary,
Your description and instructions are elegant in their simplicity! From what you have shown and described my own version of the tool jig can be transformed to approximate yours with nothing more than a few simple modifications. Thank you for your generosity in sharing.
Regards,
Graeme Wood.
Thank you very much Graeme! Now you have me wondering what your jig is like.
Take care,
Gary
Got to have one. Thank you so very much.
Thanks so much and thanks for watching.
Gary
Excellent Tutorial be good when shed warms up and i can put some of your ideas to practice thank you. All the best from Lincolnshire UK
Thank you Gary, it is warming up here which is nice. Warm enough to plant the last large arborvitae we bought.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
It took me a while to realize you were making 2 tables. Slowly dawned on me though. Nice and simple is a good design choice. Thanks for sharing Elias ! Take care. -Mike
Thank you Mike. Yes I mentioned I did not want to cut up the new platform I bought for making this video. I probably never would have bought one because I could have made one if needed. But I am sure I will find a place to use it.
If the Elias is who I think it is I will do my best to live up to the new name I have been given. But that will be a very big task indeed.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Oops, how did I give the comment meant for his snickeri channel to you ? Just one of those mysteries of YT eh ? Living up ? That's why we watch !
Nonetheless Gary - Thanks for sharing. Take care. -Mike
@@mpart_woodlathe-stuff if you say so. I am still confused. Guess I have not have enough coffee!
Cool, Gary! That makes it simple enough. I recently saw another method using a scroll saw. I may try that as well.
Thanks Billy. I am sure the scroll saw would work great. I had one but never found a lot of use for it.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
I think ican make one now. Thank you
Good deal Harvey and let me know if you have any question.
Gary
I just finished making the 2-1 cutting jig. Haven’t used yet but am looking forward to do so. Thanks for a great presentation. You are the best and i am pretty much a beginner.
Thank you very much Maxine. Good to hear you have made the jig. Have fun turning I know I still do.
Take care,
Gary
The Nobel for ThePapa1947
Thank you Joseph!
Thanks for watching my friend.
Gary
Excellent tutorial, Gary!
Thanks so much Valerie. I am hoping others will be able to make their own now.
Thanks so much for sharing your design for the ring cutting jig. It’s very generous of you to share your Ideas and expertise with others.
Thank you Tom. I appreciate your comment and thanks for watching,
Gary
Thanks for this Gary!
Thank you Chris and thanks for watching.
Gary
Very well done on this video Gary. I will borrow a few of the ideas and adapt them to my mini-lathe, especially the box cutting tool rest. It is impossible to find any specialty parts for my lathe, so I design and make them myself.
This project will have to wait as I'm busy with yard work that needs to be done before the summer heat moves in.
Thank you very much Gil. Always nice to be able design parts for your own lathe. Sounds like you have that under control.
I understand the yard work thing. We have one more large arborvitae to get planted. And this afternoon is the time to do it.
Take care,
Gary
Wow, pretty ingenious there Gary. If I was turning more these days, I would definatley build one of those.
Thanks Tom, happy you enjoyed the video.
Take care,
Gary
Thank you for this.
Sure thing Doug and thanks for watching!
Gary
I like that Gary. Nice job
Thank you Charles and thanks for watching.
Gary
hi Gary,I made one and will try it soon,seams people like stuff made so can buy,but easy to build,thanks again for brain work
Thanks Fran, yes it is pretty easy to make. Let me know how it goes.
Take care,
Gary
Thanks so much for sharing this. I used the Nova products to build one and cut my first bowl yesterday. It was amazing! Now to build the press.
Thank you Ralph, happy you had success. Have fun with the press and let me know how it goes.
Gary
Thank you for sharing all the work you have done on this project. You have a hose clamp on your jig to set the height of the jig and tool entry into the board. Does the point of your tool go in dead on the center line? Do you go in slightly above or below the centerline? I am looking forward to making a jig. Thanks again!!
Thank you for watching and asking the question. Yes I put the tool right on the center line. I meant to talk about that and I will on my next bowl from a board video that I do.
Thanks again,
Gary
It looks simple enough to make and quite useful. I would note that my Nova toolrest fits quite in my Laguna 1836.
Thanks Bill, it slides right in mine but I have to clamp harder than normal to get it fixed in place. As you know there is a second threaded hole on the Laguna banjo and if I tighten it up just a little then the Nova post clamps fine. But the Laguna tool rest is a bit tight.
If you have a micrometer I think you will see the Nova is about .002 thousandths smaller.
I would be curious to hear what you come up with.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
That’s cool. Thanks Gary
Thank you very much Joseph, happy you enjoyed it.
Take care,
Gary
Thanks for the helpful info. Really enjoy watching your videos.
Thank you very much Doug! I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Gary
Thank You. I had the same idea using the box platform to make this. I will give a shot tomorrow. Thanks again.
Thank you Don. It does seem like a great solution. Not surprised that others have made use of the platform. Looking forward to seeing it
Take care,
Gary
Great explanation with terrific illustrations/video. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Julian and thanks for watching.
Gary
Thank's Garry for your great skill in "make it yourself". It is one of my pleasure too; and even if I don't finish all my ideas, I have a huge pleasure in conceptualizing. We won't forget that ancient wood turners were used to make their tools themselves instead of buying finished ones. Have a good weekend my friend. 😃👍
Thank you very much Jean Louis. I am not quite ancient but in my trade we made all kinds of special tools and fixtures to get the job done. I have always loved that part of the job.
Take care my friend,
Gary
Thanks for sharing this, Gary. It looks simple enough that I may try making one soon. I have a modular rest system that has a post which screws on to various size rests. I think it should work. I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again for the inspiration.
Thanks Tom. Which brand are you using? The Nova uses metric threads and was aluminum if you did not want to buy the box rest. But the short one is not that expensive.
Let me know how it goes.
Gary
Thanks Gary, I already made a steel version ant tried a bowl. Working on the finish on the inside before I reverse it and finish up on the outside.
Very nice Greg, happy to hear you have made one. Let me know how your bowl turns out.
Gary
Just found this video and it's exactly what I have been looking for. Thank you Gary as this is one of the best give away I have seen in a long time. Many many thanks
Thanks so much Frank. Glad you enjoyed the video.
Take care,
Gary
This is a very useful and priceless (yes to the beholders) content for making one for ourselves Gary. Thanks and greatly appreciated as I was going to make one ( somehow without a metalworking machine) but now you have given us the cookbook so that even a "CAVEMAN" can do this 🤣. It is people like you and many who share their crafts and passions over the net that has enabled the IQ of our planet to go up several points over the last two decades!
Thank you Rama for your very kind words. Much appreciated.
Best of luck and thanks for watching,
Gary
Thanks for the follow up to make the jig for us DIYers Gary, those of us without a CNC :). As usual, your content is very clear, concise and effective for the wood turning community!
Thank you very much. Sometimes I feel like I am cheating using my CNC...but I get over that real fast LOL.
Knowing others do not have the equipment I really enjoyed making this video.
Gary
Well this is what I would call a high value video. Not only does it show how to make a particular tool for a particular use, it shows dimensions, and gives many considerations for situations that are not yours, ie, possibly ours. That is really valuable. I am not ready to make a bowl in a board, but will be soon. It is good to know that I have a reference video to do that when I am ready. This was a big week for me, as I finally finished the lathe table I have been working on for over a year. I now have to just bolt down and assemble the lathe, sharpen some tools, and I am ready to turn. I am so excited. I will be able to join you in turning exercises each week. Thanks for the instruction, and the encouragement! Your video as always is excellent. See you next week!
Thank you very much Mark. Very exciting that you are almost ready to get that lathe going. Look forward to hearing about how it is going.
Take care,
Gary
I have a question. I am going to order the Robert Sorby Micro Cut Off tool.I’m thinking of just ordering without the handle and attaching a square handle that would fit the tool rest. Good idea?
Yes it will fit fine. I bought just the blade as well.
Thanks for watching,
Gary
Thank you for making this jig. I've always had problems making angled cuts on my Band Saw. I think it will be much slicker to do it on the lathe.
Thank you Bill, for sure this will be my main way of cutting rings.
Thanks for watching.
Gary
Great intstructions Gary. With this video I'm sure I could make one for myself.
Maybe using a home made casting. 😎
Thanks Leo, for sure making your own casting would be very cool.
If I was serious about making these I would make a pattern and have castings made. That is if I still had the connection with foundries that I used to have. Made lots of patterns similar to something like this and usually filled the board with 4 to 6 patterns.
Can't wait to see your home cast version.
Take care,
Gary
@@ThePapa1947 Not the first project on my priority list but you never know. I will surely post it when I get to it.
Thanks Gary, quick question for you. If one has a laguna 1836 and was willing to sign a waver of liability for you. What would you charge to make one of these and mail it? Of course minus shipping cost.
Hi Tim, what is it about making this that you are concerned about? Working with the metal? If you want to email me I will help you through all of this.
I am guessing you have a Laguna? Is it the 1836?
Let me know,
Gary