Well I sure enjoyed this video! Very nice machining of all the parts. For awhile there I thought I was doing it myself. Other than I did mine on my CNC Bridgeport. Your parting tool holder looks top notch! It was so fun watching my design being made by and described so well by a professional hobby machinist who knows what he is doing. Great job and thanks for the shout outs. Gary
Thanks for your comments Gary. And, no problem for the shout outs, you did all the experimenting and came up with a good design. Credit is given accordingly.
What a cool project. 👍👍😎👍👍. I wonder if the parting blade would benefit by creating a large radius relief on the left (chuck) side like is used with typical trepan tool geometry? Does that make sense?
Possibly yes. I think any radius relief would help. I guess the only issue is that the inner rings have a much tighter radius. So you would need split the difference and make the relief suit the middle rings. That said, I wont know if the wide kerf is an actual issue until I experiment more, and start gluing up the rings. I can also cut down the height of the tool to reduce the kerf if I need to.
Your parting tool will present its cutting edge (( scrapper)) at or near 90 degrees to the face of your workpiece, looking for a catch. Would a traditional parting tool presenting a negative rake be safer or did it make a difference, what was your experience. P.S.: I envy your metal cutting tools and ability. Thanks
Thanks for your question, it is a good one. I have only been woodturning for just over a year and we have diamond parting tools at the club which I have used a lot. From a metalwork and machining background I could not work out why woodturning parting tools have a negative rake. I did ask around the club but I did not get any solid answers. Then I asked around the club and looked up carbide parting tools for woodturners. These seem to have a neutral rake and the user pushes them in on center. So some thought went into what parting blade to use, and what angle it should be presented at, and I settled on what you see in the video. In terms of how it cuts, it is quite good actually. It is important to have the rest close to your work so that there is plenty of support. It cuts good if you ease the tool in. If you push too hard it can get a bit grabby, even when the rest is close to the work. The downside of the blade that I used is that it is too high. This makes it harder to cut out the rings which are closer to the center. This is because the radius of the ring is shorter and the tool has to cut a wider kerf when it is cutting the ring. I hope this was helpful.
That whole parting tool including the handle came out really nice, well done 👍
Thank you.
Really good trick and tool making. Enjoyed. Cheers Rob
Thanks Rob.
Gday John, brilliant job, I’m looking forward to seeing you make the bowl now, great video mate, cheers
Thanks Matty, much appreciated.
Well I sure enjoyed this video!
Very nice machining of all the parts. For awhile there I thought I was doing it myself. Other than I did mine on my CNC Bridgeport.
Your parting tool holder looks top notch!
It was so fun watching my design being made by and described so well by a professional hobby machinist who knows what he is doing.
Great job and thanks for the shout outs.
Gary
Thanks for your comments Gary. And, no problem for the shout outs, you did all the experimenting and came up with a good design. Credit is given accordingly.
Great video, by using a board it saves an enormous amount of waste by using a large hunk of wood to turn a bowl.
Thank you. Yes, you minimize waste using a board.
Nice work John.
Steve.
Thank you Steve.
You got a good laugh out of me with "ball peen press"
I was hoping for some laughs. I made the video and I still laugh when Judge Judy comes up.
Grandios! 👍👍👍
Thank you.
Great job. Is there any chance you are making more of the jigs?
Thank you. No sorry, I have a bunch of other projects to get on with.
What a cool project. 👍👍😎👍👍. I wonder if the parting blade would benefit by creating a large radius relief on the left (chuck) side like is used with typical trepan tool geometry? Does that make sense?
Possibly yes. I think any radius relief would help. I guess the only issue is that the inner rings have a much tighter radius. So you would need split the difference and make the relief suit the middle rings. That said, I wont know if the wide kerf is an actual issue until I experiment more, and start gluing up the rings. I can also cut down the height of the tool to reduce the kerf if I need to.
Your parting tool will present its cutting edge (( scrapper)) at or near 90 degrees to the face of your workpiece, looking for a catch. Would a traditional parting tool presenting a negative rake be safer or did it make a difference, what was your experience. P.S.: I envy your metal cutting tools and ability. Thanks
Thanks for your question, it is a good one.
I have only been woodturning for just over a year and we have diamond parting tools at the club which I have used a lot. From a metalwork and machining background I could not work out why woodturning parting tools have a negative rake. I did ask around the club but I did not get any solid answers. Then I asked around the club and looked up carbide parting tools for woodturners. These seem to have a neutral rake and the user pushes them in on center. So some thought went into what parting blade to use, and what angle it should be presented at, and I settled on what you see in the video.
In terms of how it cuts, it is quite good actually. It is important to have the rest close to your work so that there is plenty of support. It cuts good if you ease the tool in. If you push too hard it can get a bit grabby, even when the rest is close to the work.
The downside of the blade that I used is that it is too high. This makes it harder to cut out the rings which are closer to the center. This is because the radius of the ring is shorter and the tool has to cut a wider kerf when it is cutting the ring. I hope this was helpful.