The points you were trying to make about the segmented construction were good. Your actual construction would be vastly improved if you would get a sharp saw blade. Also slow the cuts down. That will help too. Be sure to sand all the fuzzies on the segments. They will go together better. Put your camera on a tripod. The movement when you are talking to the camera is driving me nuts. And back away from the camera a bit. Good luck in working out the bottom of your bowls. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks glen. Love the advice and tips. I'm still learning everything but I enjoy sharing what I Do know. I will put these tips to practice and see how they work out!
Try a segmented base with a floating solid insert to form the bottom. - Make your first ring with the OD where you want it and the ID 2" smaller. This gives you a ring with a 1" wall and flatten the bottom side as usual. - Grab that ring in your Cole jaws with a 1/4" plywood sacrificial layer under it then turn the ID round. - Turn a 1/2" dado in the ID to about 1/8" less than the ring thickness. - Turn a solid piece of wood (I use something contrasting) round to an OD slightly smaller than the OD of the 1st ring dado and slightly thicker than the depth of the dado. - Glue the solid plug into the ring with only two spots of glue in line with the grain of the plug. As the plug shrinks and swells with weather, the glue wont crack and the bowl won't split. The swelling of the plug will be absorbed into that small gap between the plug and the ring. - Last, flatten the top as usual. This gives you a foot on your base, a flat place to sign it, material on the inside to round out the bottom, and no hole at the middle of the base where segments don't quite meet. Complete the piece as usual.
Around 20minutes: a comment on Cole jaws. Some time ago, I tried what you did and didn't like the grip I got with the rubber fingers. I had some flat head screws that fit the jaws and tried just the screws with no rubber. The edges of the screws bit into the OD of the ring like fingernails and held the ring VERY well. The slight dimples left by the screw heads didn't matter because they got turned away a little later. Try it. You might like it.
What you are doing here is great but I just wanted to pass on a few things I have learned. I have been making segmented bowls and vases for years now and had the same issue when I started with the bottoms not meeting up correctly. The issue is the angle that the segments are cut to. If a ring has 8 or 12 pieces and the angle is off just a bit, you can still make them come together with a bit of sanding and some glue but the more segments per row will compound the amount of angle you are off to the point that all the sanding you do will never make it look good or fit. I ended up making a few table sleds at different angles and working with tons of scrap I moved the angle guide boards a hairs breath at a time to get the angle just right to get the bottom to meet. Try it next time with a small amount of segments per row then double the amount, then adjust the guide board a hair one way and then the other…..you will be surprised just how much that little bit of movement can make.
Thank you, and thank you for the advice. I understand the compounding between multiple segments, and I have been thinking about making custom sleds for the segmented bottom. Now that I know it's possible. I will have to look into it to make my own! Thanks again!
Use Titebond 2 instead of 3. It has less open time so it tacks up quicker and helps prevent all the slipping and misalignment. I can't imagine you need the waterproof benefits of TB3.
That’s a good idea. I use tb3 because I don’t know what people are going to use my bowls for. And if they don’t take care of them, like leave them in a sink full of water, I would hope that the tb3 would help my bowls last a little longer.
This has popped up many times. With a properly set up jig you should never have to sand the joint. And with a good blade and a slow cut at the end you should have nice tight joints. Just wanted to say that it can be done. Not saying anything against what you have done.
Oh I know it can be done. I’ve done it before. You are right. Guess I just need to figure out the best way to get it 100% of the time. Thanks for the input!
@@madiradesign sure thing. Again not criticize your work. A wedgie sled with perfect wedges is the key. I have CNC milled my wedges. I find a laser can work. But not as thick.
@@ThePapa1947 oh yeah. Thats what I use. I actually mill my own wedgies and sleds for Etsy. I know I should have used a different blade. And probably need to update my 5 year old prototype wedgie sled.
@@madiradesign why give in so easily, yes at times it's really difficult but that's why we love turning so much, remember that it's the finished product that drives us on if it was easy we probably wouldn't bother. Please don't think I am critical about your skills because that is definitely not what I think when it is finished I have no doubt that the bowl will be beautiful and shining of pure beauty. Good luck with your turning.
@@bretteee mmm I see. Well, there was a lot more time behind the scenes, trying to figure out how to make it work or IF I wanted to make it work. Making videos takes a lot of time and I guess It was just quicker for me to get the bowl done than to keep working and working on it. Thanks for watching and your input.
Thanks for sharing your experience with bowl! 👍🏻 I have two I need to get done and this video was a big help! Thanks!
Awesome! Well, thank you! glad it was of some help
Looking good!
Thank you! Second video coming out this week!
You did amazing work on this project 👍👍
Wow. Thank you. I’m glad I stuck it out. And you will see in the next video, they finish up very nicely!
The points you were trying to make about the segmented construction were good. Your actual construction would be vastly improved if you would get a sharp saw blade. Also slow the cuts down. That will help too. Be sure to sand all the fuzzies on the segments. They will go together better. Put your camera on a tripod. The movement when you are talking to the camera is driving me nuts. And back away from the camera a bit. Good luck in working out the bottom of your bowls. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Thanks glen. Love the advice and tips. I'm still learning everything but I enjoy sharing what I Do know. I will put these tips to practice and see how they work out!
Try a segmented base with a floating solid insert to form the bottom.
- Make your first ring with the OD where you want it and the ID 2" smaller. This gives you a ring with a 1" wall and flatten the bottom side as usual.
- Grab that ring in your Cole jaws with a 1/4" plywood sacrificial layer under it then turn the ID round.
- Turn a 1/2" dado in the ID to about 1/8" less than the ring thickness.
- Turn a solid piece of wood (I use something contrasting) round to an OD slightly smaller than the OD of the 1st ring dado and slightly thicker than the depth of the dado.
- Glue the solid plug into the ring with only two spots of glue in line with the grain of the plug. As the plug shrinks and swells with weather, the glue wont crack and the bowl won't split. The swelling of the plug will be absorbed into that small gap between the plug and the ring.
- Last, flatten the top as usual. This gives you a foot on your base, a flat place to sign it, material on the inside to round out the bottom, and no hole at the middle of the base where segments don't quite meet.
Complete the piece as usual.
Oh wow! Thank you for this. I’ll have to give it a shot next time I make a segmented bottom. Thank you.
Around 20minutes: a comment on Cole jaws. Some time ago, I tried what you did and didn't like the grip I got with the rubber fingers. I had some flat head screws that fit the jaws and tried just the screws with no rubber. The edges of the screws bit into the OD of the ring like fingernails and held the ring VERY well. The slight dimples left by the screw heads didn't matter because they got turned away a little later. Try it. You might like it.
Great tip. A clever solution. I’ll give it a whirl!
Paddlepop sticks cut in half work great for splitting the segments in half :)
Yes! I can’t wait to try another segmented base. Because I have learned so much from this one.
What you are doing here is great but I just wanted to pass on a few things I have learned. I have been making segmented bowls and vases for years now and had the same issue when I started with the bottoms not meeting up correctly. The issue is the angle that the segments are cut to. If a ring has 8 or 12 pieces and the angle is off just a bit, you can still make them come together with a bit of sanding and some glue but the more segments per row will compound the amount of angle you are off to the point that all the sanding you do will never make it look good or fit. I ended up making a few table sleds at different angles and working with tons of scrap I moved the angle guide boards a hairs breath at a time to get the angle just right to get the bottom to meet. Try it next time with a small amount of segments per row then double the amount, then adjust the guide board a hair one way and then the other…..you will be surprised just how much that little bit of movement can make.
Thank you, and thank you for the advice. I understand the compounding between multiple segments, and I have been thinking about making custom sleds for the segmented bottom. Now that I know it's possible. I will have to look into it to make my own! Thanks again!
Use Titebond 2 instead of 3. It has less open time so it tacks up quicker and helps prevent all the slipping and misalignment. I can't imagine you need the waterproof benefits of TB3.
That’s a good idea. I use tb3 because I don’t know what people are going to use my bowls for. And if they don’t take care of them, like leave them in a sink full of water, I would hope that the tb3 would help my bowls last a little longer.
Nice looking bowls so far! You could have just put in a long piece and used it as a tenon. Then you would not have to worry about turning it away.
Thank you, yeah, I should have done a tenon, oh well, live and learn!
@@madiradesign looking forward to the next video.
only 1 set !! i have 3 sets of 4 jaw chucks with colejaws for 2 of the 3 :)
Dang! Thats awesome! I’ll get there one day!
This has popped up many times. With a properly set up jig you should never have to sand the joint.
And with a good blade and a slow cut at the end you should have nice tight joints.
Just wanted to say that it can be done.
Not saying anything against what you have done.
Oh I know it can be done. I’ve done it before. You are right. Guess I just need to figure out the best way to get it 100% of the time. Thanks for the input!
@@madiradesign sure thing. Again not criticize your work.
A wedgie sled with perfect wedges is the key.
I have CNC milled my wedges.
I find a laser can work. But not as thick.
@@ThePapa1947 oh yeah. Thats what I use. I actually mill my own wedgies and sleds for Etsy. I know I should have used a different blade. And probably need to update my 5 year old prototype wedgie sled.
Why .
Why what?
@@madiradesign why give in so easily, yes at times it's really difficult but that's why we love turning so much, remember that it's the finished product that drives us on if it was easy we probably wouldn't bother. Please don't think I am critical about your skills because that is definitely not what I think when it is finished I have no doubt that the bowl will be beautiful and shining of pure beauty. Good luck with your turning.
@@bretteee mmm I see. Well, there was a lot more time behind the scenes, trying to figure out how to make it work or IF I wanted to make it work. Making videos takes a lot of time and I guess It was just quicker for me to get the bowl done than to keep working and working on it. Thanks for watching and your input.