This video was thrown into my algo, and I didn’t even know I wanted to build at least one drift. Thanks for the entire video and confirming what I had thought. At least with the brands and what not. A lot of useful knowledge. Thanks! 🍻
Really liked your explanation about gyros. I also have an FPV racing background and the way you look the drift car feels really appealing and unique for me. Looking forward to see more content like this. Chassis tuning would be a good one.
Yo thanks for all that information! I recently picked up the rc hobby so im glad i stumbled on this video so early because its nice to know i dont always need to spend lots of money to make something work. i'm looking forward to learning all sorts of mechanical and programmable tuning for these things.
wow so have been watching rc drift stuff for 3 days and pricing out potential builds. this was a great video and will probably save me some coin. thanks man.
Onisiki gyro, toro rc 50 esc with programing card and onisiki 13.t motor from rc mart are great budget parts, my opinion dont skimp out on the servo though also if you got some extra spend it on a good radio sanwa is my preference specifically for drifting
Dude you are preaching the truth!! I really hope the drift community will come together on these matters. Good electronics are not correlated to a higher price tag here. 🤷🏾♂️
Great video! I know I'm a year late, but explaining drift suspension geometry in depth and describing how it affects the drifting/handling would be great!
I started drifting this week with RC. I thought because of my sim experience and IRL seat time that I would be able to hop in it. Learning this stuff is crazy
In my experience, when tuned properly, AVCS smooths out your drifts by slowing down the return-to-center tendency of the servo. . Without AVCS, in long sweeping drifts you would be counteracting the return-to-center by making micro-corrections in your steering input in order to sustain the drift. From the observer's prospective this could look like front wheel twitch (not to be confused with gyro wobble). With AVCS active (and tuned properly) the car will hold that countersteer longer, allowing you to focus on wheel spin to keep it sideways and let the gyro do its thing. Absolutely NOTHING wrong with your observations and what you say tracks (well informed video btw, ty). AVCS is just a tool. I find it helps smooth out my drifts from the viewer's prospective and looks and feels more to scale.
hmm maybe I'll try it again. I know what you're saying in regards to futaba gyros because they almost feel like they're auto-drifting but I haven't noticed that with non-futaba gyros.
@@ode4492 I gotcha. Yeah that's not something I particularly like about futaba gyros. In long sweepers you can literally take your hand off the wheel and finish the drift. I would rather do the drifting myself lol.
Fully ready to see more videos of rc drifting from you, more info on gyro tuning (as I always thought it was best to run gyro gain between 50-75%, and never 100), and servo tuning. If you have any type of recommendations for esc tuning, I'm more than sure we're all ready for some of that as well. I have this video saved in Favorites for sure.
Dude thank you so much, I was having problems with my gyro, I seen your video and the bit about too close to the motor so I moved my gyro further from the motor and its like a different car, thank you so much
interesting to hear your take on it my only real comment would be.. the servo horn length is the mechanical distance the link travels.. further out.. travels further for less rotation further in means more rotation for the same travel by having the link at just the right spot so you use full 100% of the travel you get a much better resolution of movement, if you have 1024 steps of travel and you turn your rates down to 50% at full lock say.. your only getting 512 steps of resolution from lock to lock... having more resolution of movement make the gyros job a lot easier also having the link further in gives the servo a mechanical advantage to deliver more torque to the rack.. like a lower gear on a bike (not that the rack then exerts more leverage on the servo.. it has less)
You're right and in most cases that would be good. (like in a race car) But with drifting if the servo has too much mechanical advantage it kind of... overworks the gyro and induces wobble. You can literally tune out wobble just by making the horn shorter.
@@Furadi you got the right idea... The wrong way round lol If you didn't want the torque? A 19kg servo wouldn't be necessary? I actually find about 10-12kg is sufficient with a good setup Maybe you need the extra torque as you have been loosing it in mechanical disadvantage?
With added grip I've had troubles with MST gyros and yokomo yg gyro paired with the agfrc servo and had several issues with gyro wobble even with gain turned down.
AGFRC is OEM for the ReveD RS-ST and Yokomo servos. If its programmable and you open the servo and see "ASS" on the PCB, its AGFRC made. On gyros, lots of the lower/mid priced are basically the same/similar. The Futaba GYD550 is very good and mainly use it if you're using compatible Futaba radio with Gyro Link so it can be adjusted from the Tx and fine tune other settings. Wouldn't recommend it if you're not on Futaba. Only reason to spend more on those gyros is IF you want the additional functions or compatibility with the radio system. For me its GYD550 on a T4PM Plus and KO Propo KG-X on EX-NEXT. The Yokomo DP-302V4 works, but does feel different slightly to my GYD550 and KG-X (both of these gryos cost me around $80-$85, you can shop around to find deals). All these gyros I'm using on A50BHL servos, as the ReveD RS-ST is a coreless servo, where the A50BHL is brushless and cost less than the RS-ST, which has gone up in price a lot.
Great video. Currently running a onsinki v2 gyro, pritty sure that is an agfrc too. Been drifting on and off for a couple years now . I found the faster the servo the shorter the horn has to be to get the precision needed for it drive nicely. The horn that comes with rmx kit is long and same one that the rtr comes with which has a slow servo .
Yes adjusting laver ratios will semi adjust gyro sensitivity without gain value. More modern Servos like the ct500 can use a longer horn and still be just as smooth. To fine tune your lever ratio I’d recommend the adjustable horn from WUN.
Hey mate ive got a question about control link....there is a lot less info on latency than drones when it comes to latency. But from what ive seen 20-40ms is "good" For kwads thats pretty bad... Can we some how use the same link on crossfire (without using pwm mode ) or other options for rc cars? Cheers
Just bought my first rc car rmx 2.5. Looking to upgrade my gyro and servo and noticed you recommend the mst mgx. Is that not the same exact gyro that comes stock on these rmx 2.5? Everyone says the gyro and servo should be my first upgrade and now I’m confused since your upgrade seems to be my stock gyro
here from the fpv days! sick that ur into drifting, been doing a lot of research too and i love ur take on the gyros, keep the drift content and info coming, its much needed on youtube! Also what made you choose the MST over say the reved RDX or usukani NGE which are similar price range ish
i will say my favorite gyro is the Futaba GY 550 which is 120$, but all my chassis aside from my comp chassis has a power HD G1 gyro and Power HD servo. less than $100 for the combo.
I used to fly choppers for a little bit and I would think that moving the gyro foward, towards the front tires would calm thing down the closer you get to the front axle, no? In line with the front axle line would be the least sensitive point
This was a great video. I’m curious as someone with a background in MFG: OEN typically means identical components and a white label job. What’s your opinion on the software role? Do you think there’s any variability happening from the drift manufacturers or it’s just a software paint job?
My dude, solid video. You are well spoken and well educated. I do not agree with many points you've made here and there are some things I feel that you aren't taking into consideration. Let's just use futaba as an example... the GY550 is my personal favorite gyro. Futaba had to research, develop, and write their own code for that gyro. This takes time and money. Drone FC's run opensource software so a mfg doesn't have ANY of that cost in their production. Additionally, you are entering this aspect of the hobby with gyro knowledge above and beyond even veteran drivers. A vast majority of drifters, this is their first experience with a gyro of any kind. to many of those drivers, a little extra money is worth it if it means more time driving, and less time tuning. I do not want to "Scoff" at your limited experience, but what you are saying looks good on paper. Practical application is another story. There are way too many variables from chassis to chassis and driving styles that make gyros way more nuanced than just buying an AGFRC servo and MST gyro. Thank you again for the video, cheers.
I mean if you look at futaba in general they're extremely overpriced. Their flagship radio is like $700 with no published latency #'s. This point is made even worse when you consider Radiomaster has release the MT12 running ELRS protocol for under $200. To your point it's open source vs not but if someone is willing to learn there's zero reason to spend an extra $500 on an inferior radio. Same goes for sanwa and spektrum and flysky.
@@Furadi to my point, you know of the MTS, but still chose a Sanwa. I’m assuming it’s not because of the UI so did you buy sanwa because of how it “feels”. I fully agree that many RC electronics ARE overpriced. Me personally, the money spent on futaba is worth it based on the “feel” I get from the car. I rocked an NB4 for years till I switched to the 10px and the difference is physically palpable. Again, I do appreciate your views and I look forward to hearing your observations the more you drive. Cheers sir, and thank you for your reply. If you are ever in Indianapolis, look up Zero Traction and we can shred some laps.
Used to follow you during my FPV fase as well 😁👍 This is my experience as well, but as with all hardware in this hobby it's worth nothing without good software and there is alot of gyros out there that could do well if the software their running were better, ref. Betaflight back in the days. Anyways, great video and good thoughts.
You seem like someone Id get along with haha. I ask so many questions and its like pulling teeth for setup advice. Thanks for making this video, I just got into drifting after a long break from outdoor racing and its alot of fun. Ive noticed alot of the high end stuff allows for remote adjustments but damn its pricey. I made a couple shorts from my local drift track if your interested in checking them out. Any advice in spinning out in tight turns, Im running a yd2z, but cant figure out if its electronics or chasis tuning for that one issue.
hey hey! Spinning out I've found is almost always down to not having enough front toe-out. I hear ya about the adjustment integration but tbh how often are you really going to tune your electronics in that manner aside from gyro gain? Servo settings and escs settings are pretty much done once you have them dialed in and that usually only takes 2 or 3 tries to get the settings right.
what for, easyer and cheaper is and everybody has one at home if not ask the next you know who ever did some rc stuff, just install a quarz or 27mhz receiver shakes and twists the same way before you start driving or you are into adjust the gyro....
I like this vid. But I don't understand what the gyro is for. You said it's not for driving straight. What does it do in turns ? You turn the steering wheel - the gyro knows where your car is going? Maybe do a video on this. Thanks
So, the gyro detects changes in angle. So when you throw the car sideways into a corner the gyro senses the change of angle and makes corrections to the steering to keep that angle depending on how high the gain is tuned.
Hello, i have the same setup in my RMX as you, AGFRC but my gyro/19kg servo is branded AFRC which is the same as AGFRC. Im using short servo horn, i centered the servo and setted the damping to 500 and i still have wheel wobble. Should i turn the servo speed down more? I have setted it to 74% PWM power and high sensitivity.
@@Furadi At 70-100% but i found out that my radio controller have broken potentiometer and i broke some plastics inside so i need to buy new one and my steering system had some resistance because it was running outside and debris made the way inside the bushings so it can be because of that too. What gain are you normally running at your rmx if i may ask?
@@jasoncummings64 with the use of usb programmer 👌I have programmable servo that plugs in to the pc. And i have around 550 damping. But it still wobbles a little, dunno why
This was a great video. I’m curious as someone with a background in MFG: OEN typically means identical components and a white label job. What’s your opinion on the software role? Do you think there’s any variability happening from the drift manufacturers or it’s just a software paint job?
Yes I do think there's some variability based on what the reseller is asking for. For example I believe the AGFrc v3 and the MST MGX are the same hardware... But the MGX seems to scale the gain higher than the v3. Meaning 65% on the MGX feels like 90% on the v3. So in the software that would mean they just have different PID values.
@@Furadi As you said, the PID tuning... For me it could be what make a good gyro vs a crap one. I do wonder if you pay more for the software than for the hardware. I'm Currently running a noble pro as transmitter. Their gyro enabled receiver now has a dedicated drift mode(after software update). I'm waiting for delivery to test it over my current Futaba GYD450(set in normal mode not AVCS).
The learning curve on this stuff has been pretty steep :D
Thats what makes it fun 😃
Best RC car tutorial on gyros bar none! Thank you.
This video was thrown into my algo, and I didn’t even know I wanted to build at least one drift. Thanks for the entire video and confirming what I had thought. At least with the brands and what not. A lot of useful knowledge. Thanks! 🍻
very comprehensive and very insightful discussion. I like
Really liked your explanation about gyros. I also have an FPV racing background and the way you look the drift car feels really appealing and unique for me. Looking forward to see more content like this. Chassis tuning would be a good one.
Yo thanks for all that information! I recently picked up the rc hobby so im glad i stumbled on this video so early because its nice to know i dont always need to spend lots of money to make something work. i'm looking forward to learning all sorts of mechanical and programmable tuning for these things.
wow so have been watching rc drift stuff for 3 days and pricing out potential builds. this was a great video and will probably save me some coin. thanks man.
Onisiki gyro, toro rc 50 esc with programing card and onisiki 13.t motor from rc mart are great budget parts, my opinion dont skimp out on the servo though also if you got some extra spend it on a good radio sanwa is my preference specifically for drifting
Thank you! I followed what you said and it has made a world of difference. Can’t wait to get my program card now
Dude you are preaching the truth!! I really hope the drift community will come together on these matters. Good electronics are not correlated to a higher price tag here. 🤷🏾♂️
hobbywing bl120 (45$) and a 10 motor (100$) will get ya what ya need
Thanks for the informative video, definitely right up my alley and drastically different than the typical content on here.
Great video.. I feel like I finally got the most straight forward.. legit low down on gyros and servos.. you are appreciated.. thank you.
Great video! I know I'm a year late, but explaining drift suspension geometry in depth and describing how it affects the drifting/handling would be great!
Very helpful I am getting into rc drifting so this is very nice material I’ll prob buy like the v3 but I is don’t understand like how to tune the gyro
Man this video was EXTREMELY helpful thank you. I subbed
Thanks for the video man. Trying to get my head around electronics for my first drift build and your breakdown is fantastic.
I started drifting this week with RC. I thought because of my sim experience and IRL seat time that I would be able to hop in it. Learning this stuff is crazy
Omg i love rc and i love learning. This video is amazing bro
In my experience, when tuned properly, AVCS smooths out your drifts by slowing down the return-to-center tendency of the servo. . Without AVCS, in long sweeping drifts you would be counteracting the return-to-center by making micro-corrections in your steering input in order to sustain the drift. From the observer's prospective this could look like front wheel twitch (not to be confused with gyro wobble).
With AVCS active (and tuned properly) the car will hold that countersteer longer, allowing you to focus on wheel spin to keep it sideways and let the gyro do its thing.
Absolutely NOTHING wrong with your observations and what you say tracks (well informed video btw, ty).
AVCS is just a tool. I find it helps smooth out my drifts from the viewer's prospective and looks and feels more to scale.
hmm maybe I'll try it again. I know what you're saying in regards to futaba gyros because they almost feel like they're auto-drifting but I haven't noticed that with non-futaba gyros.
@@Furadi Yes, and for clarification, I'm running a Futaba GYD450. So to be fair my experience doesn't translate outside of this particular gyro.
@@ode4492 I gotcha. Yeah that's not something I particularly like about futaba gyros. In long sweepers you can literally take your hand off the wheel and finish the drift. I would rather do the drifting myself lol.
This is an incredibly informative video thanks for sharing.
thanks for the tip, is AGFrc and AFRC-GYS-1 V3 are the same thing?
Fully ready to see more videos of rc drifting from you, more info on gyro tuning (as I always thought it was best to run gyro gain between 50-75%, and never 100), and servo tuning. If you have any type of recommendations for esc tuning, I'm more than sure we're all ready for some of that as well. I have this video saved in Favorites for sure.
Fxx kicks ass cant beat the feel of that car feels so much like my 1/1 rwds its spooky, rear motor cars cant be thrown into corners the same
Great video! Would love to hear more about what you've learned about tuning drift chassis. Maybe one on bump steering?
Dude thank you so much, I was having problems with my gyro, I seen your video and the bit about too close to the motor so I moved my gyro further from the motor and its like a different car, thank you so much
woohoo!
Great video it will be nice to see a little drifting at the end 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
interesting to hear your take on it
my only real comment would be..
the servo horn length is the mechanical distance the link travels..
further out.. travels further for less rotation
further in means more rotation for the same travel
by having the link at just the right spot so you use full 100% of the travel
you get a much better resolution of movement,
if you have 1024 steps of travel and you turn your rates down to 50% at full lock say..
your only getting 512 steps of resolution from lock to lock...
having more resolution of movement make the gyros job a lot easier
also having the link further in gives the servo a mechanical advantage to deliver more torque to the rack.. like a lower gear on a bike
(not that the rack then exerts more leverage on the servo.. it has less)
You're right and in most cases that would be good. (like in a race car) But with drifting if the servo has too much mechanical advantage it kind of... overworks the gyro and induces wobble. You can literally tune out wobble just by making the horn shorter.
@@Furadi you got the right idea...
The wrong way round lol
If you didn't want the torque?
A 19kg servo wouldn't be necessary?
I actually find about 10-12kg is sufficient with a good setup
Maybe you need the extra torque as you have been loosing it in mechanical disadvantage?
@@phibin777 here have a look at this drift blog... Might help it make sense for you. Happy drifting! ameblo.jp/marcus38060/entry-12364848212.html
With added grip I've had troubles with MST gyros and yokomo yg gyro paired with the agfrc servo and had several issues with gyro wobble even with gain turned down.
AGFRC is OEM for the ReveD RS-ST and Yokomo servos. If its programmable and you open the servo and see "ASS" on the PCB, its AGFRC made.
On gyros, lots of the lower/mid priced are basically the same/similar. The Futaba GYD550 is very good and mainly use it if you're using compatible Futaba radio with Gyro Link so it can be adjusted from the Tx and fine tune other settings. Wouldn't recommend it if you're not on Futaba. Only reason to spend more on those gyros is IF you want the additional functions or compatibility with the radio system. For me its GYD550 on a T4PM Plus and KO Propo KG-X on EX-NEXT. The Yokomo DP-302V4 works, but does feel different slightly to my GYD550 and KG-X (both of these gryos cost me around $80-$85, you can shop around to find deals). All these gyros I'm using on A50BHL servos, as the ReveD RS-ST is a coreless servo, where the A50BHL is brushless and cost less than the RS-ST, which has gone up in price a lot.
Savox ti gear digital servos is what i use in all my cars great speed and reliability
All makes sense. Completely agree
I was just wondering if we could turn a old FC into an RC gyro. Thanks for the tips!
Good information need all we noobies can get 👍
Great video. Currently running a onsinki v2 gyro, pritty sure that is an agfrc too. Been drifting on and off for a couple years now . I found the faster the servo the shorter the horn has to be to get the precision needed for it drive nicely. The horn that comes with rmx kit is long and same one that the rtr comes with which has a slow servo .
Yes adjusting laver ratios will semi adjust gyro sensitivity without gain value. More modern Servos like the ct500 can use a longer horn and still be just as smooth. To fine tune your lever ratio I’d recommend the adjustable horn from WUN.
Here is a suggestion, I would love to see tips and suggestions for beginner drivers. Also, what are the characteristics between the FXX and the RMX.
What are those green wheels? Those are really nice.
can AGFRC servo be tuned using the Reve D dongle?
Hey mate ive got a question about control link....there is a lot less info on latency than drones when it comes to latency.
But from what ive seen 20-40ms is "good"
For kwads thats pretty bad...
Can we some how use the same link on crossfire (without using pwm mode ) or other options for rc cars?
Cheers
Just bought my first rc car rmx 2.5. Looking to upgrade my gyro and servo and noticed you recommend the mst mgx. Is that not the same exact gyro that comes stock on these rmx 2.5? Everyone says the gyro and servo should be my first upgrade and now I’m confused since your upgrade seems to be my stock gyro
here from the fpv days! sick that ur into drifting, been doing a lot of research too and i love ur take on the gyros, keep the drift content and info coming, its much needed on youtube! Also what made you choose the MST over say the reved RDX or usukani NGE which are similar price range ish
i will say my favorite gyro is the Futaba GY 550 which is 120$, but all my chassis aside from my comp chassis has a power HD G1 gyro and Power HD servo. less than $100 for the combo.
I bought like a $8 one and I think it works but I also am completely new to this and I have an awd car which is different drifting.
I used to fly choppers for a little bit and I would think that moving the gyro foward, towards the front tires would calm thing down the closer you get to the front axle, no? In line with the front axle line would be the least sensitive point
This was a great video. I’m curious as someone with a background in MFG: OEN typically means identical components and a white label job. What’s your opinion on the software role? Do you think there’s any variability happening from the drift manufacturers or it’s just a software paint job?
My dude, solid video. You are well spoken and well educated. I do not agree with many points you've made here and there are some things I feel that you aren't taking into consideration. Let's just use futaba as an example... the GY550 is my personal favorite gyro. Futaba had to research, develop, and write their own code for that gyro. This takes time and money. Drone FC's run opensource software so a mfg doesn't have ANY of that cost in their production. Additionally, you are entering this aspect of the hobby with gyro knowledge above and beyond even veteran drivers. A vast majority of drifters, this is their first experience with a gyro of any kind. to many of those drivers, a little extra money is worth it if it means more time driving, and less time tuning. I do not want to "Scoff" at your limited experience, but what you are saying looks good on paper. Practical application is another story. There are way too many variables from chassis to chassis and driving styles that make gyros way more nuanced than just buying an AGFRC servo and MST gyro. Thank you again for the video, cheers.
I mean if you look at futaba in general they're extremely overpriced. Their flagship radio is like $700 with no published latency #'s. This point is made even worse when you consider Radiomaster has release the MT12 running ELRS protocol for under $200. To your point it's open source vs not but if someone is willing to learn there's zero reason to spend an extra $500 on an inferior radio. Same goes for sanwa and spektrum and flysky.
@@Furadi to my point, you know of the MTS, but still chose a Sanwa. I’m assuming it’s not because of the UI so did you buy sanwa because of how it “feels”. I fully agree that many RC electronics ARE overpriced. Me personally, the money spent on futaba is worth it based on the “feel” I get from the car. I rocked an NB4 for years till I switched to the 10px and the difference is physically palpable. Again, I do appreciate your views and I look forward to hearing your observations the more you drive. Cheers sir, and thank you for your reply. If you are ever in Indianapolis, look up Zero Traction and we can shred some laps.
@@Louiedajew oh no no, my M17 is like 3 years old. The Radiomaster is brand new lol. Currently trying to sell my M17 actually.
do i need a gyro on my 4wd drift car ? bcz i dont want to pay like 100$ for nothing
Used to follow you during my FPV fase as well 😁👍 This is my experience as well, but as with all hardware in this hobby it's worth nothing without good software and there is alot of gyros out there that could do well if the software their running were better, ref. Betaflight back in the days. Anyways, great video and good thoughts.
Have you tried sanwa gyro and servo
Been thinking about getting into drift. are the MST RMX 2.5 1/10 2WD Brushless RTR Drift Cars good for a starter? Informational as always!
That's probably the best way to get started!
I agree again with you. If you cant make it to 100 gain, something is wrong.
You seem like someone Id get along with haha. I ask so many questions and its like pulling teeth for setup advice. Thanks for making this video, I just got into drifting after a long break from outdoor racing and its alot of fun. Ive noticed alot of the high end stuff allows for remote adjustments but damn its pricey. I made a couple shorts from my local drift track if your interested in checking them out. Any advice in spinning out in tight turns, Im running a yd2z, but cant figure out if its electronics or chasis tuning for that one issue.
hey hey! Spinning out I've found is almost always down to not having enough front toe-out. I hear ya about the adjustment integration but tbh how often are you really going to tune your electronics in that manner aside from gyro gain? Servo settings and escs settings are pretty much done once you have them dialed in and that usually only takes 2 or 3 tries to get the settings right.
Hi Furadi, what car is that? It looks real good!
what for, easyer and cheaper is and everybody has one at home if not ask the next you know who ever did some rc stuff, just install a quarz or 27mhz receiver shakes and twists the same way before you start driving or you are into adjust the gyro....
also the gyd 470 is a joke. the 550 has numerous settings you can change with your transmitter.
Only if the radio you use is Futaba 7px or higher. Otherwise(correct me if I'm wrong), 470 seems to be just as good as 550.
I like this vid. But I don't understand what the gyro is for. You said it's not for driving straight. What does it do in turns ? You turn the steering wheel - the gyro knows where your car is going? Maybe do a video on this. Thanks
So, the gyro detects changes in angle. So when you throw the car sideways into a corner the gyro senses the change of angle and makes corrections to the steering to keep that angle depending on how high the gain is tuned.
Ha..... so I understand what Porshe did with the (real) 911. I think they have similler funcation.
Are out of the box gyro good enough or is it better to upgrade? Not a fan of auto drift or assists/nannies but would like to lessen spin outs.
Hi watchu think of the jx pdi servo? Its is acheap servo witj suspisios specs?😅
TRY POWER HD G1 GYRO!!!! less than 40 and i love em
Better then dp302 v4?
real good gyro should run on tarmac or unprepared rough concrete
Hello, i have the same setup in my RMX as you, AGFRC but my gyro/19kg servo is branded AFRC which is the same as AGFRC. Im using short servo horn, i centered the servo and setted the damping to 500 and i still have wheel wobble. Should i turn the servo speed down more? I have setted it to 74% PWM power and high sensitivity.
At what gain % is it wobbling?
@@Furadi At 70-100% but i found out that my radio controller have broken potentiometer and i broke some plastics inside so i need to buy new one and my steering system had some resistance because it was running outside and debris made the way inside the bushings so it can be because of that too. What gain are you normally running at your rmx if i may ask?
@@YesIgen my RMX on smooth concrete is pretty snappy so I usually run 80 - 100%
how do you set the damping ?
@@jasoncummings64 with the use of usb programmer 👌I have programmable servo that plugs in to the pc. And i have around 550 damping. But it still wobbles a little, dunno why
No no… Jess is right. The Futaba is the best and the only one you should be buying. Especially since it’s cheap at $120
Do you have any experience with the AGFRC mini gyros?
I don't. So far I only have the 2 MST cars.
Sub’d
This was a great video. I’m curious as someone with a background in MFG: OEN typically means identical components and a white label job. What’s your opinion on the software role? Do you think there’s any variability happening from the drift manufacturers or it’s just a software paint job?
Yes I do think there's some variability based on what the reseller is asking for. For example I believe the AGFrc v3 and the MST MGX are the same hardware... But the MGX seems to scale the gain higher than the v3. Meaning 65% on the MGX feels like 90% on the v3. So in the software that would mean they just have different PID values.
@@Furadi As you said, the PID tuning... For me it could be what make a good gyro vs a crap one. I do wonder if you pay more for the software than for the hardware. I'm Currently running a noble pro as transmitter. Their gyro enabled receiver now has a dedicated drift mode(after software update). I'm waiting for delivery to test it over my current Futaba GYD450(set in normal mode not AVCS).