My Ender 3 Pro was in a bundle at Matter Hackers that came with the Build Tek sheets, which saved me because for some stranger reason the stock magnetic surface quit sticking, as in the prints wouldnt stick at all. Swapped and just fine. I clean with IPA before every print to insure a fresh clean surface, no issues with sticking, as long as the bed is leveled and nozzle height is correct.
I print on the mate glass. For adhesion I use 3D glue (I think it is a povidone solution). Most of the time is works great: 1) I like mate part bottom surface 2) It usually sticks well during print 3) It usually pops out as the surface temperature drops down to 40 C 4) They are inexpencive and can be purchased almost anywhere (in any glass work shop) The downsides are: 1) It makes bed heating process longer as glass sheet has its heat capacuty 2) Sometimes parts cat peel out some chips from the glass
I have an Ender 3 v1 and an Artillery Sidewinder X1 and what I have doned with those is I purchased some inexpensive flexable spring steel sheets with magnetic bases from one of the Chinese companies and then I use a product from DOBSTFY that you can get from Amazon. The DOBSTFY product is probably similar to Buildtak. It sticks better than PEI and you can still flex your prints off.
Interesting. I will check out DOBSTFY. While I like the ease of print removal of sprint steel I really like the flatness of glass. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
@@MakeWithTech That's one of the nice things with the Sidewinder X1. It comes with a glass only bed so it is already flat so no need to worry about putting the spring steel on a warped bed. On my Ender 3 I use a BLTouch.
If someday i am even 10% as happy as Mr. Shaperio I consider myself blessed... Love this guys enthusiasm!!!! He”s my 3d motivational guru!!! SUBSCRIBE!!! He deserves it!!!
Great info, i've had best luck using GO-3D PRINT 235mm x 235mm Borosilicate Glass Plate for Creality Ender 3, Pro 3, Ender 5 3D Printer ordered from Amazon and spray Aqua-Net on a lint free towel and wipe on prior to printing.
Thanks for sharing. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I am working with the Ender 5 Plus, and using the Creality glass bed. Even though the glass is ´flat', I have found that I needed to shim the plate with post-it notes on 3 of the 4 sides. Bonding has been very successful even on large and tall PETG prints (100m filament) - as long as I use Magicgoo. That needs to be on in a pretty thick layer. I found I can renew that for several prints, then pull the glass and clean in the sink with soap and water.
Clear explanations as usual. You’re a good teacher. I have an Ender 5 Pro and came with a magnetic sheet but it can’t support temperature higher then 70C and I want to change for a PEI sheet from Creality. Did you try it? Seems to be fairly new. Cost less than $30 in Canada. Importing the MatterHackers’ from US would cost almost double with shipping, duties and sales taxes. Anyone else has tried it?
I just bought my first printer Ender 3 pro and my parents always tell me that it wasn’t worth it because I could get stuff online but I wanted it to learn and to have my own custom stuff for my things at home
Ok I just got some magigoo today so very good timing. Printing on the plain glass side of the ender 3 V2 bed as the other side got to the point were nothing would stick. So plain glass worked ok but on some prints (printing numbers and letters for example) that had very small foot print could never get it to work. Tried magigoo for the first time and perfect print :) Thanks for the video :)
Yep, thats exactly what i have done since day 1 on my Ender 3 V2, i use a sheet of BuildTak on top of the included Creality glass bed, the prints sticks almost too good onto the BuildTak. So i can recommend that.
I have the cr-10 S5 and have discovered the glass bed works great if you keep it in the center at 70 degrees Celsius and keep it super clean with isopropyl alcohol. The bed has to be good and warm and wiped with isopropyl alcohol between each print
Bought a Creality glass bed for my Ender 5 Pro a couple of weeks ago. No issues with adhesion here. For PLA and PLA+ I just use IPA to clean it. For TPU and PETG I use a cheap Scotch glue stick and it sticks well. Also bought a PEI sheet (because of all the stories that it's superior) but haven't used it yet because there is no need atm. :) Don't know if the glass bed from the Ender 3 v2 is exactly the same as the one I bought on Amazon though.
The importance of cleaning the Creality build plate with alcohol is something I failed to mention in the video. The Creality web site lists the build plate as "Surface Tempered Glass Plate with Special Chemical Coating". If it is PEI cleaning with alcohol makes a lot of sense -- which is what I do with my Prusa PEI build plate. Your comment should help a lot of people. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I have an Ender 3 v2 and I use jumbo purple glue sticks on it. I was able to get 30 glue sticks (I bought way too many) for about $26. Sometimes the prints stick too well with it if the layer of glue is too perfect. I print at 60 degrees. 30 jumbo glue sticks will probably last longer than the printer itself. Before every print, I preheat the bed and use a folded up, wet paper towel to wipe off the glue without the need for soap. Then I use a small alcohol wipe (70%) to polish it off. Preheating the bed makes the glue come off easier.
Build tek warps on my printer and hot end either irons a flat spot and then warps the material, then the hot end burns a hole in the raised portion. I switched to glass I bought locally. Works okay with a some UHU Stick and evened out with alcohol. The build tek for the TRONXY 500mmx500mm bed is pricey to buy at 3 x $20 / $60 from China and wait 3 months for delivery. Also having a hard time levelling the bed. Original start up and Z axis just bumped and 0 movement. I had missing parts and cables not long enough and bought an upgrade bed sensor that doesn't work as I do not know how to put G29 in the software for the printer. Just the presence of the sensor allows normal Z movement. There is no Z Offest available and it comes down to basic positioning and levelling. 5 attemps to make a print on glass, first 2 failed so I added the glue. It is better than nothing with 3 good prints but leveling each time before a print is time consuming. I'm older than you and not much patience left to give.
Sounds like you are struggling a bit with the TRONXY 500mmx500mm. I have no experience with that printer. If it has an ABL the G29 is added to the Start Gcode you specify in your slicer. The G29 has options for how many points to probe and you can use these options to limit the probing and speed up your start up time. Unfortunately a 3d printer with an ABL probe and no Z Offset option in the firmware is very difficult to use. You can however specify the Z offset on the G29 command. For example G29 P3 Z-1.10 ; Probe the bed with a 3x3 grid and set the Z offset to -1.10 If the TRONXY does not use standard Marlin firmware this may not work.
I've had my Ender 3 V2 for about 2 weeks and had almost immediate success, even with some tricky prints. Then I cleaned the glass plate with IPA and boom, adhesion failures. Cleaned repeatedly with 90% IPA, washed with Dawn dishwashing soap and rinsed repeatedly, re-leveled bed, fiddled with different nozzle and bed temps -- no better. Tube of Magigoo arrives today so I'm hopeful that solves my problem. The one thing that sticks in my mind is that when I first cleaned the bed with IPA the paper towel picked up some yellowish substance. I cleaned until I didn't see any more trace of that. Now I'm wondering if Creality coats the bed with some sort of adhesion promoter from the factory and that was what I was seeing? BTW, I have watched many of your videos and they are some of the best I have seen on YT on any subject. I'm a techie old enough to remember when Digital Equipment Corporation first introduced the VAX system and am wondering if there's a connection there to the name you've chosen for your channel?
@@MakeWithTech Figured as much. So many innovations on the VAX/VMS platform.... Regarding Ender 3V2 adhesion I can report that even with Magigoo applied the bed almost seems to repel filament. In desperation I applied a self-adhesive build surface that came in a box of Overture filament, re-leveled the bed, and presto, now printing fabulously. Adhesion is almost too good, so now trying Magigoo as to facilitate removal. Think it's time to order some BuildTak or LayerLock.
I’m surprised you didn’t include WhamBam flex plate with PEX surface.... been using on my E3Pro w/MicroSwiss hot end and get great results with both PLA & PETG. Just FYI.
Im using the Creality Glass with Elmer's Glue Sticks on my CR-3 Pro. I haven't had a problem yet. Once the bed cools, the prints pop off with normal hand pressure and the print surface is easily washed with soap and warm water.
I have tried some generic glue sticks in the past and they did not work well for me. Elmer's Glues stick are clearly less expensive than MagiGoo so it is worth a try. Thanks for the commend. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Great i formation. Thanks. Sounds like the ender 3 v2 glass plate is wearing quickly. Or is it only me who used it badly? The center part of the glass seems to get glossy more and more. I usedto be quite happy with the sticking of this glass. But not so much any more. But I guess it is ok. About the magicgoo.... do you have to replace magicgoo for every print? How difficult is it to clean the glass from magicgoo? Thanks and great video...
Nice video DrVax. I have a 300x300 build plate that is a little uneven, as in high and low spots. Probably around 0.1mm variance. It's enough that for a layer height of less than 0.25mm I need a raft for larger projects. Do you think a metal build plate would even that out for me?
Glass is the flattest possible solution. A glass surface with buildtak will work quite well. As indicated in the video I have also been quite pleased with the LayerLock surfaces, however if the base under the LayerLock is not flat you still may have an issue. So if you want to fix a imperfect base glass with buildtak is probably best. A great place to discuss this is at the DrVax forum located at forum.drvax.com.
@@MakeWithTech Your reply is what I was expecting. groan. I have a PEI build surface on aluminum heater and had to upgrade to an 18mm inductive sensor to get good reliability, so glass would be out of the range of my sensor. I was hoping that metal would be rigid enough to bridge over inconsistent build plate.
Never tried one. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
@@MakeWithTech how about a Discord server? i would personally prefer that because i am already familiar with it and i dont need to make an account or anything
I found that www.vbulletin.com/ was a better fit for my needs. Full disclosure I was confusing Discord or Discourse. I had only looked at Discourse which was expensive and complex to use. Discord is quite interesting but lacks some of the organizational features I am looking for.
You forgot to test the TH3d Studio's Ezflex2 smooth and textured. It's magnetic and I have no more need for clips. I use it on my ender 5. No need for glues I love the textured the best only need a raft when using supports. Check it out and you will switch too.
On plain glass I used a mix of 1/4 pint of water to 1 tbs of PVA glue. Mix well and paint on with a brush. (For PLA) Ive also found that if it is really hard to get the print off, you can put the build plate in the freezer for 30 min and the part will pop off. ;)
I think you got, like, an "old version" of the glass bed on your Ender 3 V2. My is different starting with the logo (it says Ender with the little "horsy" logo on it) and the texture is exactly the same (or very very similar) to my AnyCubic MEGA X printer. Anything that I print on my Ender 3 V2 sticks like crazy and will pop-off on its own as soon as the bed temperature reaches 25-26 Celsius. Pretty much the same behavior as the MEGA X. In the description on Amazon (Canada) where I ordered my Ender, it says: Carborundum Glass Platform. Go figure ?!? BTW, I enjoy your channel and thank you for taking the time to share with us what your just "learned" with (mainly) 3D printing. Keep up the good work for many years to come and have fun doing it !!!
The one that came with my Ender 4 V2 was the same as your. The ones shown in the videos are spares I ordered for testing. I also think my bed might have been a bit dirty and will try it again after cleaning with alcohol. But even when new it was not as good as BuildTak.
The part about the Creality glass surface being unpeelable is not entirely true. Back when my prints used to stick (don't ask), I had a print that would not come off no matter what I tried. After an hour in the freezer, it finally did after no small amount of coaxing but it in turn removed the "bonded coating" with it. If I were able to post pictures here as proof I would.
Interesting. I know I sound like an ad for MagiGoo, and I pay for my supply just like everyone else, but it does also solve the release problem. I find it very important to use with PETG which tends to stick to may surface including glass.
Yes! Also you can use any biodegradable degreaser to clean the bed and make sure that you rinse twice the bed with tap water to remove the left over film deposit from the degreaser or else nothing will stick to the bed when you print :-(
I find the best way to get consistent adhesion is never touch the surface with my fingers. If the surface never comes in contact with skin oils then they can go a very long time without needing cleaning and there aren't dead spots on the surface that the print doesn't stick to. I wear gloves if I need to touch the middle of the build plate.
I do not have access to Amazon India but the Creality Ender 3 V2 is an excellent printer supplied in a kit form. The kit is only mechanical assembly as all of the electronics are fully assembled. The ANET ET4 requires less assembly but the firmware is not as good. ANET is in the process of working with the open source community to make Marlin 2.0 available on the ET4 at that point it will be an excellent choice.
There are much cheaper alternatives for a gluestick, UHU or Pritt glue works as well and costs a fraction. That being said, if gluestick is the only way to make your print stick you have other issues that need looking at.
Yes a perfectly tuned 3d printer may not need a bed adhesive but I am sure my printers are not perfectly tuned. I used a bed adhesive which is different than a regular glue stick to make my life easier.
Thanks for the infor. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
The ET4 ships with a bare glass plate. I use Magigoo on my ET4. An alternative is to add BuildTak on top of the glass. You will have to relevel the print surface since the stock ET4 ABL system is not reliable.
A mirrors just glass but it is super level glass which makes sense because if it wasn't super level you would end up with a fun house type reflection. when you level the bed with a mirror it is very very level so adhesion would be better. I haven't tried abs
lol drvax still need to learn more printing on glass lol, glass easily the best surface to print on lol stick really well, also you don't need to used a razor blade, just spray some isopropyl alcohol and Wala
if only matterhackers customer support was good. they're local to me, i've gone in there dozens of times. then i had a couple bad rolls of filament. they admitted there was a known issue with the batch numbers and colors i had. took the rolls back to the back and came back out front and told me that there would be a 15% restocking fee reduced from my refund. i told them to just give me a couple rolls that were good and was told that i wouldn't be able to get 2 full rolls as the rolls i had were used. i said yeah they were because the prints keep failing, and now i find out that it's your fault and you know there is an issue. i've had other friends have bad experiences there too, and like i said, we go into their storefront in lake forest in person. never again will they receive a dime from me or anyone i know. too many of us have been burned.
As someone thinking of getting into 3d printing this provided some great information on build plates.
I discovered your channel through your no touch guide for ender 3 v2, have not regret subbing to you yet :D
Thanks.
My Ender 3 Pro was in a bundle at Matter Hackers that came with the Build Tek sheets, which saved me because for some stranger reason the stock magnetic surface quit sticking, as in the prints wouldnt stick at all. Swapped and just fine. I clean with IPA before every print to insure a fresh clean surface, no issues with sticking, as long as the bed is leveled and nozzle height is correct.
I print on the mate glass. For adhesion I use 3D glue (I think it is a povidone solution).
Most of the time is works great:
1) I like mate part bottom surface
2) It usually sticks well during print
3) It usually pops out as the surface temperature drops down to 40 C
4) They are inexpencive and can be purchased almost anywhere (in any glass work shop)
The downsides are:
1) It makes bed heating process longer as glass sheet has its heat capacuty
2) Sometimes parts cat peel out some chips from the glass
I have an Ender 3 v1 and an Artillery Sidewinder X1 and what I have doned with those is I purchased some inexpensive flexable spring steel sheets with magnetic bases from one of the Chinese companies and then I use a product from DOBSTFY that you can get from Amazon. The DOBSTFY product is probably similar to Buildtak. It sticks better than PEI and you can still flex your prints off.
Interesting. I will check out DOBSTFY. While I like the ease of print removal of sprint steel I really like the flatness of glass.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
@@MakeWithTech That's one of the nice things with the Sidewinder X1. It comes with a glass only bed so it is already flat so no need to worry about putting the spring steel on a warped bed. On my Ender 3 I use a BLTouch.
If someday i am even 10% as happy as Mr. Shaperio I consider myself blessed... Love this guys enthusiasm!!!! He”s my 3d motivational guru!!! SUBSCRIBE!!! He deserves it!!!
Great info, i've had best luck using
GO-3D PRINT 235mm x 235mm Borosilicate Glass Plate for Creality Ender 3, Pro 3, Ender 5 3D Printer ordered from Amazon and spray Aqua-Net on a lint free towel and wipe on prior to printing.
Thanks for sharing.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I am working with the Ender 5 Plus, and using the Creality glass bed. Even though the glass is ´flat', I have found that I needed to shim the plate with post-it notes on 3 of the 4 sides. Bonding has been very successful even on large and tall PETG prints (100m filament) - as long as I use Magicgoo. That needs to be on in a pretty thick layer. I found I can renew that for several prints, then pull the glass and clean in the sink with soap and water.
Thanks for sharing.
Clear explanations as usual. You’re a good teacher. I have an Ender 5 Pro and came with a magnetic sheet but it can’t support temperature higher then 70C and I want to change for a PEI sheet from Creality. Did you try it? Seems to be fairly new. Cost less than $30 in Canada. Importing the MatterHackers’ from US would cost almost double with shipping, duties and sales taxes. Anyone else has tried it?
I just bought my first printer Ender 3 pro and my parents always tell me that it wasn’t worth it because I could get stuff online but I wanted it to learn and to have my own custom stuff for my things at home
My wife thought it was silly as well but I made her some of these www.thingiverse.com/thing:330724 and she says it is the best thing I have printed.
I use extra strong and cheapest hairspray on glass for PLA. Spray quite thick and let good dry before printing.
Probably smells terrible but much less expensive than magigoo.
Ok I just got some magigoo today so very good timing. Printing on the plain glass side of the ender 3 V2 bed as the other side got to the point were nothing would stick. So plain glass worked ok but on some prints (printing numbers and letters for example) that had very small foot print could never get it to work. Tried magigoo for the first time and perfect print :) Thanks for the video :)
Yep. It works for me.
Yep, thats exactly what i have done since day 1 on my Ender 3 V2, i use a sheet of BuildTak on top of the included Creality glass bed, the prints sticks almost too good onto the BuildTak. So i can recommend that.
I have the cr-10 S5 and have discovered the glass bed works great if you keep it in the center at 70 degrees Celsius and keep it super clean with isopropyl alcohol. The bed has to be good and warm and wiped with isopropyl alcohol between each print
Good information. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video it's very informative.
You're welcome
Bought a Creality glass bed for my Ender 5 Pro a couple of weeks ago. No issues with adhesion here. For PLA and PLA+ I just use IPA to clean it. For TPU and PETG I use a cheap Scotch glue stick and it sticks well. Also bought a PEI sheet (because of all the stories that it's superior) but haven't used it yet because there is no need atm. :) Don't know if the glass bed from the Ender 3 v2 is exactly the same as the one I bought on Amazon though.
The importance of cleaning the Creality build plate with alcohol is something I failed to mention in the video. The Creality web site lists the build plate as "Surface Tempered Glass Plate with Special Chemical Coating". If it is PEI cleaning with alcohol makes a lot of sense -- which is what I do with my Prusa PEI build plate.
Your comment should help a lot of people.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I have an Ender 3 v2 and I use jumbo purple glue sticks on it. I was able to get 30 glue sticks (I bought way too many) for about $26. Sometimes the prints stick too well with it if the layer of glue is too perfect. I print at 60 degrees. 30 jumbo glue sticks will probably last longer than the printer itself. Before every print, I preheat the bed and use a folded up, wet paper towel to wipe off the glue without the need for soap. Then I use a small alcohol wipe (70%) to polish it off. Preheating the bed makes the glue come off easier.
Thanks for sharing.
Build tek warps on my printer and hot end either irons a flat spot and then warps the material, then the hot end burns a hole in the raised portion. I switched to glass I bought locally. Works okay with a some UHU Stick and evened out with alcohol. The build tek for the TRONXY 500mmx500mm bed is pricey to buy at 3 x $20 / $60 from China and wait 3 months for delivery. Also having a hard time levelling the bed. Original start up and Z axis just bumped and 0 movement. I had missing parts and cables not long enough and bought an upgrade bed sensor that doesn't work as I do not know how to put G29 in the software for the printer. Just the presence of the sensor allows normal Z movement. There is no Z Offest available and it comes down to basic positioning and levelling. 5 attemps to make a print on glass, first 2 failed so I added the glue. It is better than nothing with 3 good prints but leveling each time before a print is time consuming. I'm older than you and not much patience left to give.
Sounds like you are struggling a bit with the TRONXY 500mmx500mm. I have no experience with that printer. If it has an ABL the G29 is added to the Start Gcode you specify in your slicer. The G29 has options for how many points to probe and you can use these options to limit the probing and speed up your start up time. Unfortunately a 3d printer with an ABL probe and no Z Offset option in the firmware is very difficult to use. You can however specify the Z offset on the G29 command.
For example G29 P3 Z-1.10 ; Probe the bed with a 3x3 grid and set the Z offset to -1.10
If the TRONXY does not use standard Marlin firmware this may not work.
You need to get a Reptor print removal tool :) best tool ever
I just ordered one to try it out.
@@MakeWithTech you will love it ... rounded edges its nice let me know how ya like it. Its not my product its just a nice tool
Great update
Great test
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks for continuing to watch my videos.
I've had my Ender 3 V2 for about 2 weeks and had almost immediate success, even with some tricky prints. Then I cleaned the glass plate with IPA and boom, adhesion failures. Cleaned repeatedly with 90% IPA, washed with Dawn dishwashing soap and rinsed repeatedly, re-leveled bed, fiddled with different nozzle and bed temps -- no better. Tube of Magigoo arrives today so I'm hopeful that solves my problem. The one thing that sticks in my mind is that when I first cleaned the bed with IPA the paper towel picked up some yellowish substance. I cleaned until I didn't see any more trace of that. Now I'm wondering if Creality coats the bed with some sort of adhesion promoter from the factory and that was what I was seeing?
BTW, I have watched many of your videos and they are some of the best I have seen on YT on any subject. I'm a techie old enough to remember when Digital Equipment Corporation first introduced the VAX system and am wondering if there's a connection there to the name you've chosen for your channel?
Yep. I worked for DEC for 5 years. DrVax was my nickname among some of my peers.
@@MakeWithTech Figured as much. So many innovations on the VAX/VMS platform....
Regarding Ender 3V2 adhesion I can report that even with Magigoo applied the bed almost seems to repel filament. In desperation I applied a self-adhesive build surface that came in a box of Overture filament, re-leveled the bed, and presto, now printing fabulously. Adhesion is almost too good, so now trying Magigoo as to facilitate removal. Think it's time to order some BuildTak or LayerLock.
I’m surprised you didn’t include WhamBam flex plate with PEX surface.... been using on my E3Pro w/MicroSwiss hot end and get great results with both PLA & PETG. Just FYI.
I do remember hearing good things about the WhamBam surface but I have not tried it.
Im using the Creality Glass with Elmer's Glue Sticks on my CR-3 Pro. I haven't had a problem yet. Once the bed cools, the prints pop off with normal hand pressure and the print surface is easily washed with soap and warm water.
I have tried some generic glue sticks in the past and they did not work well for me. Elmer's Glues stick are clearly less expensive than MagiGoo so it is worth a try. Thanks for the commend.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Great i formation. Thanks. Sounds like the ender 3 v2 glass plate is wearing quickly. Or is it only me who used it badly? The center part of the glass seems to get glossy more and more. I usedto be quite happy with the sticking of this glass. But not so much any more. But I guess it is ok.
About the magicgoo.... do you have to replace magicgoo for every print? How difficult is it to clean the glass from magicgoo?
Thanks and great video...
Nice video DrVax. I have a 300x300 build plate that is a little uneven, as in high and low spots. Probably around 0.1mm variance. It's enough that for a layer height of less than 0.25mm I need a raft for larger projects. Do you think a metal build plate would even that out for me?
Glass is the flattest possible solution. A glass surface with buildtak will work quite well. As indicated in the video I have also been quite pleased with the LayerLock surfaces, however if the base under the LayerLock is not flat you still may have an issue. So if you want to fix a imperfect base glass with buildtak is probably best.
A great place to discuss this is at the DrVax forum located at forum.drvax.com.
@@MakeWithTech Your reply is what I was expecting. groan. I have a PEI build surface on aluminum heater and had to upgrade to an 18mm inductive sensor to get good reliability, so glass would be out of the range of my sensor. I was hoping that metal would be rigid enough to bridge over inconsistent build plate.
Care with the Razor blade Paint scraper.
Those are Known to Gouge Window glass.. Let alone a 3d plastic print surface. :-)
Yes you need to be careful. Use carefully flat against the print surface this approach works very well for me.
have you ever tried a Printbay FR4 plate? i LOVE those, printed about 150 hours now, PLA petg TPU, all works PERFECT :) anyway, nice video. thanks
I have not. Thanks for sharing the tip.
Ha, that's what I meant, the black one is very "sexy".
My new favourite is a glassfiber reinforced resin plate at the moment.
Never tried one.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
@@MakeWithTech how about a Discord server? i would personally prefer that because i am already familiar with it and i dont need to make an account or anything
I found that www.vbulletin.com/ was a better fit for my needs.
Full disclosure I was confusing Discord or Discourse. I had only looked at Discourse which was expensive and complex to use. Discord is quite interesting but lacks some of the organizational features I am looking for.
@@MakeWithTech mmh, okay. there are roles that you can assign. anyway, hoping that your solution work well for you :)
I have a Creality pei spring steel build plate that works great.
Thanks for sharing.
Hi great video you really need to try the Trianglelabs Double textured PEI Spring sheet for PETG it is AWESOME!
Thanks for the tip!
You forgot to test the TH3d Studio's Ezflex2 smooth and textured. It's magnetic and I have no more need for clips. I use it on my ender 5. No need for glues I love the textured the best only need a raft when using supports. Check it out and you will switch too.
Another good suggestion.
On plain glass I used a mix of 1/4 pint of water to 1 tbs of PVA glue. Mix well and paint on with a brush. (For PLA)
Ive also found that if it is really hard to get the print off, you can put the build plate in the freezer for 30 min and the part will pop off. ;)
Excellent suggestions.
What about good old fashioned blue painters tape?
That works but I find it takes a lot of time to replace and when I use it it tears after most prints.
My ender 3v2 build plate won't stick at all so I went with blue painters tape with no issues at all
sir can you test complex moveing part print on ender 3 v2 ? please make a viedo on it.
I did one of these videos before, sounds like it is time to do one again. Thanks for the suggestion.
I think you got, like, an "old version" of the glass bed on your Ender 3 V2. My is different starting with the logo (it says Ender with the little "horsy" logo on it) and the texture is exactly the same (or very very similar) to my AnyCubic MEGA X printer. Anything that I print on my Ender 3 V2 sticks like crazy and will pop-off on its own as soon as the bed temperature reaches 25-26 Celsius. Pretty much the same behavior as the MEGA X. In the description on Amazon (Canada) where I ordered my Ender, it says: Carborundum Glass Platform. Go figure ?!?
BTW, I enjoy your channel and thank you for taking the time to share with us what your just "learned" with (mainly) 3D printing. Keep up the good work for many years to come and have fun doing it !!!
The one that came with my Ender 4 V2 was the same as your. The ones shown in the videos are spares I ordered for testing. I also think my bed might have been a bit dirty and will try it again after cleaning with alcohol. But even when new it was not as good as BuildTak.
The part about the Creality glass surface being unpeelable is not entirely true. Back when my prints used to stick (don't ask), I had a print that would not come off no matter what I tried. After an hour in the freezer, it finally did after no small amount of coaxing but it in turn removed the "bonded coating" with it. If I were able to post pictures here as proof I would.
Interesting. I know I sound like an ad for MagiGoo, and I pay for my supply just like everyone else, but it does also solve the release problem. I find it very important to use with PETG which tends to stick to may surface including glass.
Washing the new ender 3 v2 glass bed in hot soapy water tends to work for me when it starts having adhesion problems
Thanks for the suggestion.
Yes! Also you can use any biodegradable degreaser to clean the bed and make sure that you rinse twice the bed with tap water to remove the left over film deposit from the degreaser or else nothing will stick to the bed when you print :-(
I find the best way to get consistent adhesion is never touch the surface with my fingers. If the surface never comes in contact with skin oils then they can go a very long time without needing cleaning and there aren't dead spots on the surface that the print doesn't stick to. I wear gloves if I need to touch the middle of the build plate.
Good idea. Cleaning with alcohol will remove any oil from your fingers.
sir i want to buy a 3d printer. plzz suggest a 3d printer as a beginner under 250-300$(max -20000). plzz make sure its available on amazon india.
I do not have access to Amazon India but the Creality Ender 3 V2 is an excellent printer supplied in a kit form. The kit is only mechanical assembly as all of the electronics are fully assembled. The ANET ET4 requires less assembly but the firmware is not as good. ANET is in the process of working with the open source community to make Marlin 2.0 available on the ET4 at that point it will be an excellent choice.
@@MakeWithTech ender 3v2 amazon india price is 30000(407$) which is over budget for me.
@@MakeWithTech when anet eta 4 get marlin filmware update?
They are working on it now. An early release is already available on the ANET web site but it requires some knowledge of electronics for installation.
There are much cheaper alternatives for a gluestick, UHU or Pritt glue works as well and costs a fraction.
That being said, if gluestick is the only way to make your print stick you have other issues that need looking at.
Yes a perfectly tuned 3d printer may not need a bed adhesive but I am sure my printers are not perfectly tuned. I used a bed adhesive which is different than a regular glue stick to make my life easier.
PEI is not really good for TPU and PETG. But perfect for PLA
Thanks for the infor.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
I'm having a horrible time with adhesion and print quality with the ET4 and PETG filament
The ET4 ships with a bare glass plate. I use Magigoo on my ET4. An alternative is to add BuildTak on top of the glass. You will have to relevel the print surface since the stock ET4 ABL system is not reliable.
@@MakeWithTech I'll try to post on the forums. We don't have buildtak locally. Also having print quality issues with PETG. Inconsistent
On your printer can you use petg
Sure. There is a video on the channel about printing PETG.
Ender 3 version 4???
Not sure what that is. If I said version 4 I just misspoke. I have an Ender 3 V2.
Has anyone tried a mirror surface (especially for ABS)? I read it somewhere that it provides extremely well adhesion. Worth to buy one?
A mirrors just glass but it is super level glass which makes sense because if it wasn't super level you would end up with a fun house type reflection. when you level the bed with a mirror it is very very level so adhesion would be better. I haven't tried abs
Correct. Thanks for sharing.
When I find I need an adhesive, my choice is Aqua Net hairspray.
lol drvax still need to learn more printing on glass lol, glass easily the best surface to print on lol stick really well, also you don't need to used a razor blade, just spray some isopropyl alcohol and Wala
Thanks for sharing.
@@MakeWithTech you're welcome, great channel by the way keep up the good work!
I just put glue stick on the glass and if it sticks too well, I just put the glass in water and the part just floats up the water.
Excellent. Regular glue sticks have not worked as well as MagiGoo for me.
Wham bam
Have not tried it but multiple people have recommended it.
DrVax thank you ma’am😀
if only matterhackers customer support was good. they're local to me, i've gone in there dozens of times. then i had a couple bad rolls of filament. they admitted there was a known issue with the batch numbers and colors i had. took the rolls back to the back and came back out front and told me that there would be a 15% restocking fee reduced from my refund. i told them to just give me a couple rolls that were good and was told that i wouldn't be able to get 2 full rolls as the rolls i had were used. i said yeah they were because the prints keep failing, and now i find out that it's your fault and you know there is an issue. i've had other friends have bad experiences there too, and like i said, we go into their storefront in lake forest in person. never again will they receive a dime from me or anyone i know. too many of us have been burned.
Sorry to hear that. I have only ordered from them online and had no issues.
@@MakeWithTech wait till you have to send something back. Do it through someone else or with a fake name and see how they treat you.