I have 2 printers, one has a flex steel magnetic sheet on it and I swore by that until I got the other one which has ultrabase, that has been amazing as long as it’s leveled. Just don’t have the nozzle too low or you’ll never get your prints off.
I've always used glass beds. On my FT-5 I used 12" mirror tiles, and on my i3 2020 I'm using borosilicate. Combine that with a couple coats of aquanet hairspray, and I've never had any issues with PLA adhesion. PETG hasn't given me any trouble either for that matter. ABS, now that is a whole different story.....
@@youarein1ov3 Well, I'll start by saying that neither of my printers have heated chambers or enclosures, so that might help when printing straight to glass, but I'm not sure. That said, on my i3 I stuck a pei sheet on top of my glass one time when I was deal set on printing a piece in ABS that was the size of the entire bed. That worked, but you have to be careful, because at times it was sticking too well, to the point where I'm pretty sure I destroyed a print or two trying to remove them. It's also easy to gouge the pei when you're removing the printed part if you're not careful.
I do the same thing with the exact hairspray and have never had issues. If it sticks too good you can rub a piece of ice on the bottom of the plate and the print will pop right off. and no it doesn't crack the glass. i've been doing it that way forever and still have same piece of glass.
I bought an Ender 3 Pro after stumbling upon your channel 3 (?) weeks ago, and I had my fair share or problems too, fortunately the version I bought came with the glass bed already, but I couldn't get my prints to not lift off in the corners. The solution I found was to use a raft, and now my problem became "How do I remove the prints from the bed without warping them or scratching the bed with the metal scraper". But at least the prints come out great :]
I have 3 of those glass beds with the black texture on it. 2 are the geeetech superplate and 1 is the creality. the geeetech ones pop the prints loose when the bed cools but the creality needs a jackhammer and patience to get things off. not sure why. they are great beds though. bought my first one a week after getting my first printer and I order one every time I order a new printer.
I have a glass bed from Lowes and i just rub a piece of ice underneath the glass and the print pops off. You would think the heated glass would break but it doesn't. I can't speak for the creality one though. I just bought one so i'll have to try it.
I personally swear by WHAM BAM build surfaces, have them on both my ender 3 and cr10v2. After a print, all it requires is a quick wipe of IPA and 00 steel wool, and it's ready to go again.
You've never tried PET? I'll save you some time, glue stick on glass or pei. Highly recommend the prusa mk3 style powder coated flex sheet, keep it clean.
I use a mirror with a salt solution wiped across a hotbed to evaporate the water leaving a crystalline salt layer. dissolve one heaped tablespoon of salt to 50ml of hot water and use a paper towel to wipe on to the hotbed. I tried to post a URL to a PDF made by the developer of this method but your YT settings are blocking URL's
My printer prints smooth and perfect except if I don't put a raft down it never sticks. Like ever. Fails every time right off the bat without a raft. With raft never had a issue lol
Forgot the easiest and best option, but no one is trying: Double sided tape ! Really try it, pls... you dont have to clean anything ! Just put on your tape and enjoy the best adhesion you could ever have xD Idk why no one does it, its so easy, 100% adhesion everytime, no cleaning required, probably cheaper than buying iso-propanol
@@FranklyBuilt Plus as you said its not whatever kind of bed anymore but tape. It would be interesting to see how well it works though. Never heard anyone using double sided tape. Usually its painter's tape or masking tape.
there is glassbeds and there is borosilicate glassbeds. this is a glassbed. its crap. boro glass is the kind that is used in woodburners. the surface is covered in tiny hills and valleys. its on a microscopic level so it appears transparent to us ;) so mr has not gotten to the pei and its superior pex springsteel plates? ahh. mate.. those are the dream
I have 2 printers, one has a flex steel magnetic sheet on it and I swore by that until I got the other one which has ultrabase, that has been amazing as long as it’s leveled. Just don’t have the nozzle too low or you’ll never get your prints off.
thanks for the suggestion, i just started 3d printing and your videos are a great help!
I've always used glass beds. On my FT-5 I used 12" mirror tiles, and on my i3 2020 I'm using borosilicate. Combine that with a couple coats of aquanet hairspray, and I've never had any issues with PLA adhesion. PETG hasn't given me any trouble either for that matter. ABS, now that is a whole different story.....
Any tips for ABS Adhesion? Or should I just toss my ABS at this point and swap
@@youarein1ov3 Well, I'll start by saying that neither of my printers have heated chambers or enclosures, so that might help when printing straight to glass, but I'm not sure.
That said, on my i3 I stuck a pei sheet on top of my glass one time when I was deal set on printing a piece in ABS that was the size of the entire bed. That worked, but you have to be careful, because at times it was sticking too well, to the point where I'm pretty sure I destroyed a print or two trying to remove them. It's also easy to gouge the pei when you're removing the printed part if you're not careful.
I do the same thing with the exact hairspray and have never had issues. If it sticks too good you can rub a piece of ice on the bottom of the plate and the print will pop right off. and no it doesn't crack the glass. i've been doing it that way forever and still have same piece of glass.
Nice informative video Frank. I will give the ultra base a try.
I've been using a wham bam flex plate on my cr-10 max and it may be my favorite surface i've ever used.
I bought an Ender 3 Pro after stumbling upon your channel 3 (?) weeks ago, and I had my fair share or problems too, fortunately the version I bought came with the glass bed already, but I couldn't get my prints to not lift off in the corners. The solution I found was to use a raft, and now my problem became "How do I remove the prints from the bed without warping them or scratching the bed with the metal scraper". But at least the prints come out great :]
I was waiting the whole video for the print to cool down sending the glass flying.. sadly I was disappointed ;)
Thanks for your insight, very helpful :)
I have 3 of those glass beds with the black texture on it. 2 are the geeetech superplate and 1 is the creality. the geeetech ones pop the prints loose when the bed cools but the creality needs a jackhammer and patience to get things off. not sure why. they are great beds though. bought my first one a week after getting my first printer and I order one every time I order a new printer.
I have a glass bed from Lowes and i just rub a piece of ice underneath the glass and the print pops off. You would think the heated glass would break but it doesn't. I can't speak for the creality one though. I just bought one so i'll have to try it.
I personally swear by WHAM BAM build surfaces, have them on both my ender 3 and cr10v2. After a print, all it requires is a quick wipe of IPA and 00 steel wool, and it's ready to go again.
Haha nice, good ole goo gone xD
You've never tried PET? I'll save you some time, glue stick on glass or pei. Highly recommend the prusa mk3 style powder coated flex sheet, keep it clean.
I use Wham Bam and Tiny Machine 3D Flex plate.
I use a mirror with a salt solution wiped across a hotbed to evaporate the water leaving a crystalline salt layer.
dissolve one heaped tablespoon of salt to 50ml of hot water and use a paper towel to wipe on to the hotbed.
I tried to post a URL to a PDF made by the developer of this method but your YT settings are blocking URL's
Great video. What do you use for your CR10S4? Im having trouble finding options for the 400 plate.
So far the stock glass
My printer prints smooth and perfect except if I don't put a raft down it never sticks. Like ever. Fails every time right off the bat without a raft. With raft never had a issue lol
Look at my post above yours, this will save you loads of plastic
Glue stick...
@@teeheetummytums972 tried it, also tried tape
@@I2ocker89 check out my comment beneath the video (double sided tape is the solution, really)
Forgot the easiest and best option, but no one is trying:
Double sided tape ! Really try it, pls... you dont have to clean anything ! Just put on your tape and enjoy the best adhesion you could ever have xD
Idk why no one does it, its so easy, 100% adhesion everytime, no cleaning required, probably cheaper than buying iso-propanol
But then you have to buy tape every time and it’s just adding to the mix of things you need. When you could just. Clean the bed lol
@@FranklyBuilt Plus as you said its not whatever kind of bed anymore but tape. It would be interesting to see how well it works though. Never heard anyone using double sided tape. Usually its painter's tape or masking tape.
What printer is the best?
can you use an ultrabase bed from the cr10 on an ender 3 s1 plus
No it’s too big
Ok thanks
can you say me please from where you have stormbraker model?
Etsy. I have a build video on it
@@FranklyBuilt o yeah sorry I don't see that, thanks :)
there is glassbeds and there is borosilicate glassbeds. this is a glassbed. its crap. boro glass is the kind that is used in woodburners. the surface is covered in tiny hills and valleys. its on a microscopic level so it appears transparent to us ;)
so mr has not gotten to the pei and its superior pex springsteel plates? ahh. mate.. those are the dream
ender 3 for 3d shoe cubby's or furniture just wanting to start 3d printing
my ender5 bed i cant get adhesion at all
Clean it with alcohol and level it again.
3rd, again
1st