Former print dry user here: I had the same experience with the print dry 2.0 regarding it not reaching advertised temperatures. I contacted PD on the issue and acknowledged it as a known problem. That unit operates on an open loop system. They informed me that they will be released a closed loop system and that they have an expected arrival of stock late October / early November. This conversation was had on Sept 18th
Awesome video, thanks. Where I live the summer is very dry (25-30% humidity) and I didn't have printing problems, but in winter we have 70-80% and I started to have problems. I only print on PLA and I had a lot of stringing and first layer jagged problems (like you showed almost at the end of the video) and I thought the problem was my printer. I struggled a long time with the problem and I changed the extruder, hot end, nozzle, a glass bed, then PEI in spring steel sheet, but long story short, it solved after I started to storage my filaments in sealed plastic bags with silica gel desiccant, so humidity is a big deal.
Great Videos, I live in a high humidity area, simple cheap solution is a small Reptile Tank Heater (Ebay) and an old Esky cooler box, keeps the air dry in the Esky without heating the box and being low voltage cheap to run. These heaters are sold online for small pet rodents, snakes, lizards etc, they don't put out a lot of heat but do seem to do enough to keep my filament dry.
Amazing illustration! I always thought that TPU was more hygroscopic than PLA. Now I know why my PLA filaments tend to become brittle after stacking them in the open for a month or so. I'll adopt your great method in getting those containers with good sealants in them and probably start up by using the stacks of silica jel packets. Thank you sir for sharing your experience 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi all, just mentioning that you can see the effect of moisture if you look and listen carefully while you are purging some filament. You can hear popping and even see small bubbles arise on the surface of extruded filament. Some other 3D printing youtube channels have mentioned this. 2nd @DrVax I think your humidity sensor is limited to 16% minimum (at least when I saw the specs on Amazon on one that looks exactly like you are using). Might be good to verify specs, Lastly, proper dry storage is important from the start when you get in the filament. A box with desiccant probably won't be enough to restore any moisture effected spools without a heating element.
I store my PLA in a Polygon Polybox - a two reel holder with bowden tube like the EIBOS container. It doesn't have a heater, but instead relies on packets of rechargeable silica gel. The ambient humidity is around the 55-70% range here, but the Polybox and silica gel gets it down to below 10% (which is the lowest reading the sensor can go). For me, this works well enough that a dedicated dryer is not needed. If you need to go the dryer route, then one possible alternative to filament dryers to to use a food dehydrator. They work just the same and the only modification needed is the removal of the food trays. (Some humidifiers have removable trays but others have built in trays which need to be snipped away with some cutters).
I live in the UK and we have an airing cupboard with the hot water storage tank, Had a problem with PLA getting brittle put all my reels in the airing cupboard and it solved all my problems
A good set of reviews. I have seen the Eibos reviewed by others and it seems like a good system. This is the first time I have seen the printdry system and it looks good also. I have had good luck with a modified food dehydrator that I purchased on Amazon this summer. Ir was very reasonable and can hold a minimum of two rolls with the parts included. I'm in the process of printing extra rings to increase the capacity to 4 - 6 rolls. I am a little confused with the chart showing the filament water contents. I know Nylon is a real water hog, but I have never had problems with PLA. I agree that PETG needs to be dry along with ABS, but the chart seemed to have PLA with a higher water content. The thiing I found most interesting is the dry box that displays its status and you can recharge by plugging in. Thanks for all of the good information. I learned something today/
Great video and good timing! I just used an old toaster over to test the sample PLA that came with my Ender 3 (it was left out for a long while) and it worked! Looking at storage solutions now.
Glad I could help! P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
being relatively new myself, starting with fresh(dry) filament was a game changer. I was testing with an old spool stored poorly and kept getiing inconsistent results. Seriously considering ordering one of these for my prusa setup
I've been printing a couple years, it wasn't until I started using PC / Nylon and Carbon Fiber blends till I realized that I had the problem. So if you stick with PLA and PETG you can relax till you see issues.
It's a good idea to calibrate your hygrometer because they are often not accurate out of the box. Also, simple and cheap analog hygrometers that just use a strand of hair and a spring are often more accurate than digital ones.
Some ideas for DYI alternatives are that you can suck the air from plastic bags using a regular vacuum cleaner. A food dehydrator costs about $30 and will dry filament without damaging it although it would not have the ability to print from it directly.
Thanks for sharing. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Thanks for the input, I plant on trying to use my food saver to create the vacuum and use the food saver bags. They are quite cheap if you order bulk rolls on Amazon. I might even dry one of the cheap food dehydrators and print my own cover for it.
@@MakeWithTech Actually I am new at 3d printing and I'm in the process of setting up my work station. I have a new Artillery Side Winder X1 and one of the complaints is the spool holder, I found a 3d filament Dryer spool holder for $80 on Amazon and ordered it to replace the spool holder on the Sidewinder. Thank to your videos this should make my learning experience easier and better. Thank you.
You mentioned a couple times how fast the humidity dropped in the box. It seemed like you were talking about an empty box. If that is the case, even if the box is completely sealed the humidity will drop as temperature rises, because the measurement is relative humidity. When air has a given amount of water in it and the temp changes the humidity changes in the opposite direction.
I can't remember where, but recently, I saw a vid wrt filament drying, and they pointed out that spools with solid sides were not ideal, took much longer to dry the whole spool full.
If you use the fryer as a feeder it does not matter. The outer layer of filament contains several hours of print time, so you are drying the filament far before it reaches the printer.
Hi, I love your presentations!!! As it happens, I have been developing a system to print continuously with dry filament. I am in Fort Lauderdale. I keep my filament at about 24% humidity. I will try to contact you tomorrow morning directly. My solution is better than what you have here and costs a fraction. :)
I have the EiBOS Easy Dry I love it except for one issue. It has a Humidity readout and a Knob that you dial in to filament type. Easier than knowing what temp to dry your filament. I just dial to PETG and set. It heats a lot so probable working. The bad is I bought Amazon Basic filament the spool is just slightly bigger than normal filament spool. So it does not work. Bummer. I am looking to see if EIBOS makes a similar but slightly bigger unit.
Thanks for sharing. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Thanks for the very informative video. I made my own filament storage box and am surprised to see the humidity levels shown quickly in your video. I expected a heated dryer to reduce the humidity more. Once calculated, the 16% relative humidity at 43 deg C is 9.5g/m3 in absolute humidity. My passive storage box gets down to 2.7g/m3 with zero power usage. We have pretty high humidity most of the time here in the UK so filament storage is essential. Check out my storage box build video on my channel if you're interested in how i got my humidity down so low. Thanks again for the in-depth review.
I also wonder how well the bags will work. I bought some on Amazon With a hand pump. When these work it is a great system but the Pink plug does not work on about half of the bags. Frustrating I would rather spend slightly more money and get ones that would every time. And then you should only have to buy them once.
QUESTION: I try to print with PCL filament ( temperature 70 to 120 ) on ender 3 but my extruder refuse to move. It only extrude when the temperature is at 170 degree ( it's too hot for this kind of filament. Is there a way to tell the printer to extrude at 90 degree? Thanks.
Wow. 70 to 120c is very cool and if the extruder will not move than the filament is not soft enough for it to extrude it. What brand of filament is this. I am not familiar with any filament that extrudes below about 170c. A great place to discuss this is at the DrVax forum located at forum.drvax.com.
@@MakeWithTech I bought it from 3D printing Canada but it's also use alot with 3D pen. Here the description from 3 d printing Canada: PCL is also known as Polycaprolactone. It has been used in 3D printing because of its exceptional printing properties. It has a truly unique melting temperature of 60C which is even lesser than your standard ABS or PLA filaments which have melt temperatures in 200C+ range. It offers excellent layer adhesion providing extremely durable prints. The PCL filament can be molded quickly. This is especially advantageous for beginners who can practice until they get perfect results. All you need to do is immerse your prototype in warm water (60C) to soften it, and then you can remodel it until you are satisfied. It is widely used in medical applications because it is non-toxic, biodegradable and environmentally friendly. It is made from a high-quality material which has no air bubbles, kinks or any oily residue. So, you can enjoy creating artwork safely.
@@michousamuelson4094 PCL can be extruded at 70 degrees on the printing pen, but it is not suitable for use on the printer, because the flow rate is very poor at 100℃. PCL printing needs to be done at 200-210℃. Too high temperature can effectively improve the flow rate of PCL, but be careful not to print too slowly, which is easy to carbonize. At the same time, the printer is required to have a strong cooling performance, which can quickly cool the material to below 60℃. It can be printed under external fan and low-temperature air conditioning. Excuse my broken English.
I have nozzle from 0.2 to 1 mm. But I can't find any setting profile in any site to use it in Cura 4.7. Please can you help me to find a suitable profile to these nozzle.
It's not part of profile configuration you specify nozzle in the middle top part of the Cura main window, where it shows selected filament and nozzle. Just click on it and you will be able to change both -- filament parameters and nozzle size.
petg at 235 i print mine at 255 and no stringing with a tube and my pla roll is on the floor in garage for 8 months now even got wet still prints the same , i think it totally depends on where you stay in the world
If the humidity in your garage is below 35% -- it doesn't actually matter. Otherwise I had lots of troubles with nylon and pla because of humidity. Especially nylon.
Buy a food dryer for half the price. Works the same. Buy the silica gel beads in bulk for dirt cheaper on amazon. Don't throw them away when they're saturated. Drying them in your kitchen oven makes them orange again. Don't overpay for packaged ones like in the video.
Thanks! Nice and informative! Just a few comments: 1) Nylon is a torture -- you dry it in your oven for hours, you grab it to use, sudden call from your lovely but hysteric lady, 30 minutes wasted listening that people arround are idiots and DriveTests should enforce psychiatric exams for everyone before taking driving tests, finally printing attempt and ... failed. Because 30 mins out of oven was enough for nylon to absorb humidity from 50-52% humid atmosphere. So you have to stop your bubbling or blowing printing attempt and coock your nylon once again in the oven. 2) Instead of Amazon you can go to Costco and buy exactly the same Eva-Dry devices -- they sell in packs of 2-4 items per pack. It's cheaper than Amazon. At least here in Canada. :)
Build a dryer from food dehydratator then. Cut the middle part on the grid and mount one or two couplers on the side with ptfe tube up to your extruder. Voila, you have cheap dryer and also filament printing box while drying and printing. Buy taller one for two filament spools and add some silica to the bottom too. No need to buy those overpriced filament dry boxes which are in essence same thing, just 5x more.
@@ZhuJo99 They work for regular types like PLA, PETG and their derived options. Everything that can be dried by < 75C temperature. But for Nylon they are useless, you need stable 90C to dry it out. The same is valid for another high-temperature filaments. On another hand -- regular filament driers kinda from eSun or Sunlu are also useless for Nylon and high-temp filaments, they barely provide 70C.
@@krukhlis and on the other hand, pla or petg rarely needs any drying. Maybe TPU and ASA (after long time in humid environment). But Nylon can be printed from such drybox made from dehydratator. Dry it in the toast mini owen and then print from dry box, if you don’t have heated filament chamber. And after drying in owen, straight to vacuum chamber if it’s not going to be printed.
The Eibos will fuse and deform filament unless you rotate the spools manually, I would not recommended this one at all due to that and also the fact that if you use it to feed filament, changing filament roles is a PAIN and not condusive!
@@MakeWithTech It is always nice to see that youtube people are not perfect. I would rather watch videos made by people, where errors happen and get shown, than polished ones, that make look things easier than they are. Now I have to find out, were to buy those filament drivers, you were talking about, to treat them hygroscropicly in my new printer dryer. :D
Heres an idea: Maybe DON'T start with a WHAT a print dryer is, what it does, and what difference it makes. I seriously doubt that the people coming to this video are the type of people who DON'T know what filament dryer is, what id does, and what its needed for. Cut to the chase.
The desiccant in your bins is toxic. The colour changing desiccants especially are dangerous for your health as are the silica gel packs. The best desiccant to use is 3Å Zeolite which is used in drying air for breathing apparatus(scuba diving). It is clay based and food safe, which can’t be said for all other desiccants. It can be regenerated in your oven at 120-140 degrees Celsius(248-284 Fahrenheit) for 2h without health concerns.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have heard it both ways. P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
The wireless dehumidifier is the best and affordable option to store many spools of filaments, thanks a lot for making this video
Former print dry user here: I had the same experience with the print dry 2.0 regarding it not reaching advertised temperatures.
I contacted PD on the issue and acknowledged it as a known problem. That unit operates on an open loop system. They informed me that they will be released a closed loop system and that they have an expected arrival of stock late October / early November. This conversation was had on Sept 18th
That’s for the confirmation.
I was just looking for a solution in my filaments full of moisture
Thanks again DrVax
Long life and prosper for the channel!
Happy to help!
Awesome video, thanks. Where I live the summer is very dry (25-30% humidity) and I didn't have printing problems, but in winter we have 70-80% and I started to have problems. I only print on PLA and I had a lot of stringing and first layer jagged problems (like you showed almost at the end of the video) and I thought the problem was my printer. I struggled a long time with the problem and I changed the extruder, hot end, nozzle, a glass bed, then PEI in spring steel sheet, but long story short, it solved after I started to storage my filaments in sealed plastic bags with silica gel desiccant, so humidity is a big deal.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
I just received my PrintDry 2.0 with the large spool and extra container. Cant wait to use!
This was VERY helpful. The two pictures you showed were exactly the problems I had printing with PETG.
Great Videos, I live in a high humidity area, simple cheap solution is a small Reptile Tank Heater (Ebay) and an old Esky cooler box, keeps the air dry in the Esky without heating the box and being low voltage cheap to run. These heaters are sold online for small pet rodents, snakes, lizards etc, they don't put out a lot of heat but do seem to do enough to keep my filament dry.
Amazing illustration! I always thought that TPU was more hygroscopic than PLA. Now I know why my PLA filaments tend to become brittle after stacking them in the open for a month or so. I'll adopt your great method in getting those containers with good sealants in them and probably start up by using the stacks of silica jel packets. Thank you sir for sharing your experience 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
My pleasure.
wet PLA become ductile, not brittle.
Hi all, just mentioning that you can see the effect of moisture if you look and listen carefully while you are purging some filament. You can hear popping and even see small bubbles arise on the surface of extruded filament. Some other 3D printing youtube channels have mentioned this.
2nd @DrVax I think your humidity sensor is limited to 16% minimum (at least when I saw the specs on Amazon on one that looks exactly like you are using). Might be good to verify specs,
Lastly, proper dry storage is important from the start when you get in the filament. A box with desiccant probably won't be enough to restore any moisture effected spools without a heating element.
I store my PLA in a Polygon Polybox - a two reel holder with bowden tube like the EIBOS container. It doesn't have a heater, but instead relies on packets of rechargeable silica gel. The ambient humidity is around the 55-70% range here, but the Polybox and silica gel gets it down to below 10% (which is the lowest reading the sensor can go). For me, this works well enough that a dedicated dryer is not needed.
If you need to go the dryer route, then one possible alternative to filament dryers to to use a food dehydrator. They work just the same and the only modification needed is the removal of the food trays. (Some humidifiers have removable trays but others have built in trays which need to be snipped away with some cutters).
Thanks for sharing.
I live in the UK and we have an airing cupboard with the hot water storage tank, Had a problem with PLA getting brittle put all my reels in the airing cupboard and it solved all my problems
A good set of reviews. I have seen the Eibos reviewed by others and it seems like a good system. This is the first time I have seen the printdry system and it looks good also. I have had good luck with a modified food dehydrator that I purchased on Amazon this summer. Ir was very reasonable and can hold a minimum of two rolls with the parts included. I'm in the process of printing extra rings to increase the capacity to 4 - 6 rolls. I am a little confused with the chart showing the filament water contents. I know Nylon is a real water hog, but I have never had problems with PLA. I agree that PETG needs to be dry along with ABS, but the chart seemed to have PLA with a higher water content. The thiing I found most interesting is the dry box that displays its status and you can recharge by plugging in. Thanks for all of the good information. I learned something today/
Thanks for sharing and for continuing to watch my videos.
Great video and good timing! I just used an old toaster over to test the sample PLA that came with my Ender 3 (it was left out for a long while) and it worked! Looking at storage solutions now.
Glad I could help!
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Thank you for this! I’m super new at 3D printing, never knew this was something I have to worry about haha
being relatively new myself, starting with fresh(dry) filament was a game changer. I was testing with an old spool stored poorly and kept getiing inconsistent results. Seriously considering ordering one of these for my prusa setup
I've been printing a couple years, it wasn't until I started using PC / Nylon and Carbon Fiber blends till I realized that I had the problem. So if you stick with PLA and PETG you can relax till you see issues.
It's a good idea to calibrate your hygrometer because they are often not accurate out of the box. Also, simple and cheap analog hygrometers that just use a strand of hair and a spring are often more accurate than digital ones.
That's good to know. I also weigh my spools when I put them in and see how much less they weigh when I remove them.
Excellent idea.
great video and presentation! well done mate! thanks for sharing!
Can you please do a follow-up on the print dry while using Nylon?.
Some ideas for DYI alternatives are that you can suck the air from plastic bags using a regular vacuum cleaner. A food dehydrator costs about $30 and will dry filament without damaging it although it would not have the ability to print from it directly.
With some design work you could modify one, wouldn't be surprised if Thingiverse didn't already have an horazontal spool holder for one!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:4578549
Thanks for sharing.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Thanks for the link and the information and thanks for watching and participating in forum.drvax.com
@@MakeWithTech Already did two weeks ago: forum.drvax.com/forum/pictures-of-your-builds/3106-i-build-a-filament-dryer-feeder-for-less-than-40-euro
Thanks for the input, I plant on trying to use my food saver to create the vacuum and use the food saver bags. They are quite cheap if you order bulk rolls on Amazon. I might even dry one of the cheap food dehydrators and print my own cover for it.
Great idea!
@@MakeWithTech Actually I am new at 3d printing and I'm in the process of setting up my work station. I have a new Artillery Side Winder X1 and one of the complaints is the spool holder, I found a 3d filament Dryer spool holder for $80 on Amazon and ordered it to replace the spool holder on the Sidewinder. Thank to your videos this should make my learning experience easier and better. Thank you.
Thanks Doctor, my daily 3d meds
My pleasure
Hello doctor Vax I misplaced my sd card for my mingda d2 3d printer and the company hasn't replied back to me by email nj_charley@yahoo.com
Thanks for this very informative Video Ivr. you never fail to impress me.
Thanks.
You mentioned a couple times how fast the humidity dropped in the box. It seemed like you were talking about an empty box. If that is the case, even if the box is completely sealed the humidity will drop as temperature rises, because the measurement is relative humidity. When air has a given amount of water in it and the temp changes the humidity changes in the opposite direction.
Tank you for your explanation.
Interesting as always
Thanks for sharing :-)
Thanks again! I really appreciate my long time viewers.
Good to see you again Asger
Excellent!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks.
I can't remember where, but recently, I saw a vid wrt filament drying, and they pointed out that spools with solid sides were not ideal, took much longer to dry the whole spool full.
If you use the fryer as a feeder it does not matter. The outer layer of filament contains several hours of print time, so you are drying the filament far before it reaches the printer.
Hi, I love your presentations!!! As it happens, I have been developing a system to print continuously with dry filament. I am in Fort Lauderdale. I keep my filament at about 24% humidity. I will try to contact you tomorrow morning directly. My solution is better than what you have here and costs a fraction. :)
I have the EiBOS Easy Dry I love it except for one issue. It has a Humidity readout and a Knob that you dial in to filament type. Easier than knowing what temp to dry your filament. I just dial to PETG and set. It heats a lot so probable working. The bad is I bought Amazon Basic filament the spool is just slightly bigger than normal filament spool. So it does not work. Bummer. I am looking to see if EIBOS makes a similar but slightly bigger unit.
If I ordered either one of those dryers or storage vacuum bags where would they be shipped from?
I live in south Florida and I keep my filament in buckets with desiccant packs
Thanks for sharing.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv
Thanks for the very informative video. I made my own filament storage box and am surprised to see the humidity levels shown quickly in your video. I expected a heated dryer to reduce the humidity more. Once calculated, the 16% relative humidity at 43 deg C is 9.5g/m3 in absolute humidity. My passive storage box gets down to 2.7g/m3 with zero power usage. We have pretty high humidity most of the time here in the UK so filament storage is essential. Check out my storage box build video on my channel if you're interested in how i got my humidity down so low. Thanks again for the in-depth review.
I will have to check out your video. Thanks for sharing.
@@MakeWithTech That would be great, I'd love to know your opinion.
I also wonder how well the bags will work. I bought some on Amazon With a hand pump. When these work it is a great system but the Pink plug does not work on about half of the bags. Frustrating I would rather spend slightly more money and get ones that would every time. And then you should only have to buy them once.
QUESTION: I try to print with PCL filament ( temperature 70 to 120 ) on ender 3 but my extruder refuse to move. It only extrude when the temperature is at 170 degree ( it's too hot for this kind of filament. Is there a way to tell the printer to extrude at 90 degree? Thanks.
Wow. 70 to 120c is very cool and if the extruder will not move than the filament is not soft enough for it to extrude it. What brand of filament is this. I am not familiar with any filament that extrudes below about 170c.
A great place to discuss this is at the DrVax forum located at forum.drvax.com.
@@MakeWithTech I bought it from 3D printing Canada but it's also use alot with 3D pen. Here the description from 3
d printing Canada: PCL is also known as Polycaprolactone. It has been used in 3D printing because of its exceptional printing properties. It has a truly unique melting temperature of 60C which is even lesser than your standard ABS or PLA filaments which have melt temperatures in 200C+ range.
It offers excellent layer adhesion providing extremely durable prints. The PCL filament can be molded quickly. This is especially advantageous for beginners who can practice until they get perfect results. All you need to do is immerse your prototype in warm water (60C) to soften it, and then you can remodel it until you are satisfied.
It is widely used in medical applications because it is non-toxic, biodegradable and environmentally friendly.
It is made from a high-quality material which has no air bubbles, kinks or any oily residue. So, you can enjoy creating artwork safely.
@@michousamuelson4094 PCL can be extruded at 70 degrees on the printing pen, but it is not suitable for use on the printer, because the flow rate is very poor at 100℃.
PCL printing needs to be done at 200-210℃. Too high temperature can effectively improve the flow rate of PCL, but be careful not to print too slowly, which is easy to carbonize.
At the same time, the printer is required to have a strong cooling performance, which can quickly cool the material to below 60℃. It can be printed under external fan and low-temperature air conditioning.
Excuse my broken English.
Just an update a year later, the prices are off, 179 for printdry, 139 for EIBOS on Amazon. EIBOS doesn't give away that vacuum sealer anymore either.
do you have a coupon for the printdry site?
Sorry no.
Love you videos
I have nozzle from 0.2 to 1 mm. But I can't find any setting profile in any site to use it in Cura 4.7. Please can you help me to find a suitable profile to these nozzle.
It's not part of profile configuration you specify nozzle in the middle top part of the Cura main window, where it shows selected filament and nozzle. Just click on it and you will be able to change both -- filament parameters and nozzle size.
petg at 235 i print mine at 255 and no stringing with a tube and my pla roll is on the floor in garage for 8 months now even got wet still prints the same , i think it totally depends on where you stay in the world
If the humidity in your garage is below 35% -- it doesn't actually matter. Otherwise I had lots of troubles with nylon and pla because of humidity. Especially nylon.
Available on Amazon US now, my dear friends!
I've found some TPU worse than nylon for sucking up moisture.
Hi. How are you? Is your strength back?
Buy a food dryer for half the price. Works the same.
Buy the silica gel beads in bulk for dirt cheaper on amazon. Don't throw them away when they're saturated. Drying them in your kitchen oven makes them orange again. Don't overpay for packaged ones like in the video.
Thanks for the info!
Thanks! Nice and informative! Just a few comments:
1) Nylon is a torture -- you dry it in your oven for hours, you grab it to use, sudden call from your lovely but hysteric lady, 30 minutes wasted listening that people arround are idiots and DriveTests should enforce psychiatric exams for everyone before taking driving tests, finally printing attempt and ... failed. Because 30 mins out of oven was enough for nylon to absorb humidity from 50-52% humid atmosphere. So you have to stop your bubbling or blowing printing attempt and coock your nylon once again in the oven.
2) Instead of Amazon you can go to Costco and buy exactly the same Eva-Dry devices -- they sell in packs of 2-4 items per pack. It's cheaper than Amazon. At least here in Canada. :)
Build a dryer from food dehydratator then. Cut the middle part on the grid and mount one or two couplers on the side with ptfe tube up to your extruder. Voila, you have cheap dryer and also filament printing box while drying and printing. Buy taller one for two filament spools and add some silica to the bottom too. No need to buy those overpriced filament dry boxes which are in essence same thing, just 5x more.
@@ZhuJo99 They work for regular types like PLA, PETG and their derived options. Everything that can be dried by < 75C temperature. But for Nylon they are useless, you need stable 90C to dry it out. The same is valid for another high-temperature filaments. On another hand -- regular filament driers kinda from eSun or Sunlu are also useless for Nylon and high-temp filaments, they barely provide 70C.
@@krukhlis and on the other hand, pla or petg rarely needs any drying. Maybe TPU and ASA (after long time in humid environment).
But Nylon can be printed from such drybox made from dehydratator. Dry it in the toast mini owen and then print from dry box, if you don’t have heated filament chamber.
And after drying in owen, straight to vacuum chamber if it’s not going to be printed.
The Eibos will fuse and deform filament unless you rotate the spools manually, I would not recommended this one at all due to that and also the fact that if you use it to feed filament, changing filament roles is a PAIN and not condusive!
Filament Dryer.
Yep. For some reason filament “driver” was stuck in my head. Sorry. But the content should still be solid.
@@MakeWithTech It is always nice to see that youtube people are not perfect. I would rather watch videos made by people, where errors happen and get shown, than polished ones, that make look things easier than they are.
Now I have to find out, were to buy those filament drivers, you were talking about, to treat them hygroscropicly in my new printer dryer. :D
Thanks for the support.
Heres an idea: Maybe DON'T start with a WHAT a print dryer is, what it does, and what difference it makes.
I seriously doubt that the people coming to this video are the type of people who DON'T know what filament dryer is, what id does, and what its needed for.
Cut to the chase.
hygroscropic!
The desiccant in your bins is toxic. The colour changing desiccants especially are dangerous for your health as are the silica gel packs. The best desiccant to use is 3Å Zeolite which is used in drying air for breathing apparatus(scuba diving). It is clay based and food safe, which can’t be said for all other desiccants. It can be regenerated in your oven at 120-140 degrees Celsius(248-284 Fahrenheit) for 2h without health concerns.
Ahhh you're using PETg...nuff said; that's why your prints are failing Lmfao 😂
I have very successful prints with petg, pla and TPU. You just have to take the time to tune for the filament.
By the way, PETg is pronounced, "pet-jee"
Thanks for the suggestion. I have heard it both ways.
P.S. I have started a new discussion forum at forum.drvax.com where we can all have more elaborate discussions and share pictures on our prints and printers. Check it out. Irv