Great info on getting the angle right for optimal friction! I always just eyeballed it, with varying success, but I'll use this method going forward! One tip I've used, is to glue up whatever scraps are on hand into a 'board' where the end grain is along the long side, and the width is the length of the wedges I'm making, then put that into my table saw sled, up against an angled fence and stop (or you can even use the miter gauge), flipping the 'board' after each cut, to batch out a lot of wedges at once. Gluing them up into this short/wide panel makes them safer to handle and cut, than trying to hold the individual pieces of scrap.
I think that most every workholding device we have uses a wedge somewhere. Holdfasts, screw clamps (a screw is a wedge wrapped around an axle), vises, nails, others. Thanks for showing the CNC application.
first time I have heard the optimum angle mentioned. thanks for taking the time. I really appreciate your videos and watch every one I can. I think your on to something with these tips. or at least for me you are. 40 year machinist turned woodworking guy wanta be since retired here.
Another home run! I have known about wedging, of course, but hardly ever think of using this method. I am glad you addressed the optimum angle to use for the wedges. Thanks for your fine tips.
Nice tip on the 1:12 / 4% angle. Been looking for a way to butt-join two shorter panels into one longer than 8 feet to make some tall shop cabinets as a single unit from plywood I have already on hand (I could always make the cabinets from smaller boxes stacked, but making each one as a single tall box would save on wood by eliminating redundant tops and bottoms, saving me from having to purchase any more, during these times when one needs to take out a bank loan to buy a sheet of sanded 3/4"). I chose dowels to fasten the joint, but was stumped how to clamp it with the force I thought it needed, both to hold the glue until cured, but also to overcome any slight misalignment of the dowel holes and force the joint together. I ruled out options that would mar the visible surfaces, such as pocket holes, or screwing temporary cleats on either side of the joint and using my regular-sized clamps to pull those together. I thought about pipe clamps, but the cost was too prohibitive for the few times I'm likely to have such a long project that needs them (not to mention buying special 10' lengths of the pipe just for this project). And I don't really have any serious woodworker friends nearby from whom I can borrow something like that for my one project. But splicing some 2x4's into two long 'bars', screwing some scrap blocks to them for jaws, and wedge-clamping the long panel between those scrap blocks, using your 1:12 formula for the optimum wedge angle, now that would definitely work! Thanks for the info!
Love your channel and vids! They are unique and very informative. Different than houndreds of your UA-camfellows. Also i love your special shirts, but unfortunately i cant buy them as i life in europe... Thanks for all of your effort! And go on
Not related to wedges, although I use them for work holding. I noticed you have a set of the veritas back saws. I am curious if you find in use that the molded back is heavy enough to allow you to saw with just pushing forward not down allowing the saw teeth to do the cutting? Your thoughts would be appreciated as I value your channel as one of the best teaching resources available.
@@wortheffort Thank you for the quick reply Shawn. Actually they are sharp, I did increase the rake a bit 14degrees didn't feel aggressive enough. They cut smooth, I was really just looking for your opinion, which I value. There is so much discussion about the weight of brass that I want to know from someone who actually uses them an expert opinion. You likely saved me a 300 dollar experiment.
If you think about it, a screw is a wedge, just take those threads off and lay out it creates an angle. My understanding from a mechanical principle is over 15 degrees is ineffective or counter productive.
You trying to tell me something about the way I clamped my wood for that video I made? Haha. Well I’m gonna take that as a courteous yes and see what I can come up with. Thanks. Oh wait..... what about wood on its side edge without a vise?
My ears fail me sometimes so I cast to my tv which int turn plays audio through my stereo which has eq and better speakers. Works well, Try it if you can.
Man. This is exactly what I’ve needed. I’ve felt like a stooge trying to create my own wedges for clamping
Another one of your videos goes in my Woodworking list of invaluable tips! Thanks, Shawn!
I am amazed at how little is talked about wedges! I us use them all the timee them all t timefor fixing workpieces, So simple
Excentric cams are also really easy to make by hand from wood. I really like to use it for marking gauges.
Good job .. greeting from Irak
Great info on getting the angle right for optimal friction! I always just eyeballed it, with varying success, but I'll use this method going forward! One tip I've used, is to glue up whatever scraps are on hand into a 'board' where the end grain is along the long side, and the width is the length of the wedges I'm making, then put that into my table saw sled, up against an angled fence and stop (or you can even use the miter gauge), flipping the 'board' after each cut, to batch out a lot of wedges at once. Gluing them up into this short/wide panel makes them safer to handle and cut, than trying to hold the individual pieces of scrap.
Wish I had found this video much earlier. Huge help. Thanks a lot.
Thanks
I think that most every workholding device we have uses a wedge somewhere. Holdfasts, screw clamps (a screw is a wedge wrapped around an axle), vises, nails, others. Thanks for showing the CNC application.
Yep
first time I have heard the optimum angle mentioned. thanks for taking the time. I really appreciate your videos and watch every one I can. I think your on to something with these tips. or at least for me you are. 40 year machinist turned woodworking guy wanta be since retired here.
I second that fully
Thanks
Thanks
Another home run! I have known about wedging, of course, but hardly ever think of using this method. I am glad you addressed the optimum angle to use for the wedges. Thanks for your fine tips.
Thanks
u life saver! thanks again buddy. so simple can't believe i did not think of that!
Thanks
Nice tip on the 1:12 / 4% angle. Been looking for a way to butt-join two shorter panels into one longer than 8 feet to make some tall shop cabinets as a single unit from plywood I have already on hand (I could always make the cabinets from smaller boxes stacked, but making each one as a single tall box would save on wood by eliminating redundant tops and bottoms, saving me from having to purchase any more, during these times when one needs to take out a bank loan to buy a sheet of sanded 3/4"). I chose dowels to fasten the joint, but was stumped how to clamp it with the force I thought it needed, both to hold the glue until cured, but also to overcome any slight misalignment of the dowel holes and force the joint together. I ruled out options that would mar the visible surfaces, such as pocket holes, or screwing temporary cleats on either side of the joint and using my regular-sized clamps to pull those together. I thought about pipe clamps, but the cost was too prohibitive for the few times I'm likely to have such a long project that needs them (not to mention buying special 10' lengths of the pipe just for this project). And I don't really have any serious woodworker friends nearby from whom I can borrow something like that for my one project. But splicing some 2x4's into two long 'bars', screwing some scrap blocks to them for jaws, and wedge-clamping the long panel between those scrap blocks, using your 1:12 formula for the optimum wedge angle, now that would definitely work! Thanks for the info!
Good stuff................ once again. Like the presentation style. Thanks.
Thanks
I use both
Nice video as usual! Good explanation for wedges. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks
Good idea of subject... I love wedges, so simple and efficient.
You can also talk about wedges in tool design and furniture.
They're the elegant brute force solution.
Eureka. You did it again...Was just thinking about this....It's beyond strange...cheers...rr from Normandy
Told ya, I'm stalking your brain.
Often overlooked, and as you have shown, wedges can be very useful in the shop. Thanks for posting......... :)
Thanks
Very useful info. Thank you.
Thanks
thank you . great info on the wedges. thats a big help
Thanks
I use wedges in combination Whit an osb shop floor to glue thin panels
Good idea
I have use wedges but did not know the 12:1 number. I have the Stanley saw you speak of and I'm interested in your handle when ready. /John
Likely next week. Have a show to work this weekend.
Love your channel and vids! They are unique and very informative. Different than houndreds of your UA-camfellows. Also i love your special shirts, but unfortunately i cant buy them as i life in europe... Thanks for all of your effort! And go on
Thanks, I'll announce when my fulfillment co can do Europe.
Gonna try this on my planing beam instead of using a vise off the end.
Wilbur Pan might have more info on work holding on a beam.
Not related to wedges, although I use them for work holding. I noticed you have a set of the veritas back saws. I am curious if you find in use that the molded back is heavy enough to allow you to saw with just pushing forward not down allowing the saw teeth to do the cutting? Your thoughts would be appreciated as I value your channel as one of the best teaching resources available.
They’re designed to be the right weight. If you don’t think they’re heavy enough your saw is likely dull.
@@wortheffort
Thank you for the quick reply Shawn. Actually they are sharp, I did increase the rake a bit 14degrees didn't feel aggressive enough. They cut smooth, I was really just looking for your opinion, which I value. There is so much discussion about the weight of brass that I want to know from someone who actually uses them an expert opinion. You likely saved me a 300 dollar experiment.
If I'd seen this yesterday my bench would have no metal in it. Can wedges be considered decorative if they're not visible 😂
If a tree falls in a forest and nobody's around does it make a sound?
If you think about it, a screw is a wedge, just take those threads off and lay out it creates an angle. My understanding from a mechanical principle is over 15 degrees is ineffective or counter productive.
You trying to tell me something about the way I clamped my wood for that video I made? Haha. Well I’m gonna take that as a courteous yes and see what I can come up with. Thanks. Oh wait..... what about wood on its side edge without a vise?
Thanks. On it's side without a vise just use a stop.
wow. amazing how you can just ignore the simple solutions. thanks
Thanks
Love your channel but the sound quality is not great
John Williams best I can do.
wortheffort sound quality fits for purpose. Keep up the great work!
My ears fail me sometimes so I cast to my tv which int turn plays audio through my stereo which has eq and better speakers. Works well, Try it if you can.
Thanks much! Here is a link to the Windsor chair book on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Make-Windsor-Chair-Updated-Expanded/dp/1440334811
Description now updated, for got the link.
Or tracksaw users xD
Do a table glue up with wedge only challenge
Material cost might be more than justified in this tips series.
fair enough. been thinking about building a proper workbench. i don't have an army of clamps so im thinking about doing a wedge only glue up.