How to : Replace a Fuel Pump on a 2000 Ford Ranger
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- This video describes the easiest procedure I've found to replace a fuel pump on a Ford Ranger. The method I use is removing the bed to gain access to the pump. This method can be used on many other pick up trucks as well. I hope you find this video helpful. Please like, share, subscribe, and tell a friend about us. Have a great day!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of MintHillBilly, he cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information or improper use of this information. Due to factors beyond the control of MintHillBilly, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. MintHillBilly assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. MintHillBilly recommends safe practices when working with power tools, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not MintHillBilly.
I dont see why anyone would thumb this down... Its pretty much a walk thru on how to do this...
Thanks! Appreciate the comment and for watching. Check out our channel for more how to videos. Have a great day.
I get annoyed when people do this as well.
I could possibly shine a bit of light.
All I was interested in was the top of the fuel pump where the wiring clips in.
Mine isnt the same. It was mentioned that you would maybe have to splice it.
Which is why I came back to this video. But I never was able to see the top of the assembly. My replacement pump is gonna have to be spliced
This video was on point. I just finished replacing the fuel pump on my 2000 Ford Ranger XL and it was a breeze thanks to this video.
From Texas here, and i just wanted to say thank you very much for your demonstration video. It was very helpful. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for the help! I did as you said except that I didn't remove the wheels nor the bumper. I removed the bed bolts and fuel filler screws and of course all the plugs, then I propped the bed on the rear bumper and a 2x4 about 3 feet long and worked under that. No problems, works great now!!!
Thanks for watching and sharing your experience with this project. Please come back to our channel for more How To videos. Have a great day!
After seeing your comment I did the same thing. Propping it up locks it in against the bumper and makes it really stable, plus you don't have to find a place to store the bed while you're working. Thanks!
You made that look too easy! :-) Good Job!
Amazing they don't send you a new filter sock and then tell you you void the warranty without one
thanks, lifting the bed was easier than lowering the tank
The tank won’t come out through the bottom. It’s all done through the top under bed.
hay my friend thank you very much i took my truck to one of the popular car shop and they wanted $1100.00 to replace the pump. with your video i will do it my self. thanks again for shearing
Awesome! Glad it helped you save some money!
This saved me a lot of time and money thanks for making this
Thank you for taking the time for the video. It gave me an insight of what it entails. Thanks again.
Very good video! Walked me exactly through what I need to do, what tools, plus, the order in which to do them! Keep up the good work!😊
My 2001 Ranger quit last weekend. Cranks over, will run with starting spray. Replaced fuel filter no help...Not sure how to verify if the fuel pump is bad.
I will say this is one of the BEST "how to" videos on UA-cam. Very well done.
Sounds like its the fuel pump. To confirm the pump you can remove the line from the fuel rail and key it up. See if the any fuel comes out. Make sure you have a container for the fuel to go in. Another thing you could do is crawl under the vehicle near the fuel tank. listen for the sound of the pump while someone keys it in the on position. Hope this helps.
Check the fuel pump relay first. Also check to see if you have spark.
freckin out standing video,very helpful !!
Excellent video. I very much appreciate it! Gonna do this in the morning. I have everything ready to go. My truck is a 99 Mazda B2300 but I think it is mostly the same as yours. Thanks again from Georgia!
+Steve Collins BTW maybe I missed it but did you release the fuel pressure before doing this swap? I will be doing that but not sure if it is a big deal or not.
I definately prefer this method to dropping the tank and working underneath! Great tutorial!
Thanks for the demo! This is a much better/easier idea than dropping the tank in a home garage in my opinion. Thanks especially for explaining how that middle line disconnects; I would probably have broken it trying to figure it out without your info.
Great simple video. Use a stick of wood rather than a chisel. No need to remove lights, only disconnect the plug drivers side rear. Remove tailgate to lighten the work. No need to remove the bumper. I chose to remove mudflaps to protect them.
With this video and more like it.. we the unknowing shall learn! Thanks man!! beats dropping the tank,, I have had to do that in a 1988 Plymouth Reliant, sucked but,, yeah. with the savings I got a OEM from Mopar pump.. never had to replace again.
Worked exactly the same on my 99 except I had to deal with the quick release attachments for the fuel line. Great video!
very helpfull. i appreciate your detail. not to long not to short.
Thanks a lot from Brazil!!
For my bed bolts I had to spray them with some lubricant (I used PB) a couple of times. Other than that, the job was pretty easy. Never thought of taking the bed back so I'm glad I watched your video first! Thank You for making this!
Thanks for a very helpful video. I didn’t know about the green clip on the one line, and didn’t know how to get it off until I watched this.
I’m not criticizing, but you did more work than you needed to do. I’ve done the fuel pumps on two Rangers...a 2000 stepside, and a 1996 flareside, and all I had to do was remove the tailgate, remove the 6 bed bolts, remove the filler neck, and disconnect the harness for the rear lights. Prop up the bed a couple inches at the back to reach the connector for the rear lights. It’s right there above the license plate. Then...get something about 4 feet long to use for a prop, tip the bed up from the drivers side so the other side is resting on the opposite rear tire, put your prop in a safe, secure spot to hold up the bed, and you’re ready to work on the fuel pump.
I’m an out of shape old guy and I was able to do this alone.
Great video. I may be doing this job soon and your video clearly shows how involved the job is and how to go about it. Thank you for sharing your knowledge it's greatly appreciated!
I think it's easier to drop the tank..but I guess depends on skill ad tool availability...good video.
Great video it was very helpful. Thanks
Thanks for the video. It was very informative and helpful. I knew as much as taking the bed off, but I've never changed a fuel pump. This showed me more than enough to feel confident in being able to complete this relatively simple job myself instead of being raped by the mechanic.
just what I needed thanks a whole lot
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Thanks for the video, you just saved my son and I $800.00 doing this ourselves. Your step by step was simple to follow. THANK YOU BROTHER! I would add to disconnect the battery before you start. If I had to do it again, I could do it in 2 hours, maybe less with all power tools.
Perfect video
Thank you! Appreciate you watching and commenting.
Thank you
Great video thank you for the great help!!!
Thank you so much for this video. You saved me $500 this week.
Great video, thanks.
Muchas gracias señor
Good job
Terrific, thanks. I have a mazda B 4000....hope it is same....
My truck goes in on the 26th. I hope this is all that's wrong with it but at least I know what to expect for labor.
Gracias
Great video. Just one question: what was the total time it took for you to complete everything involved (if reconnecting the bumper/bumper/etc is estimated with the same time to disconnect)? Including the total time involved is something I’ll also suggest you include in your future videos. Thanks in advance.
My 2001 Mazda b3000 has this exact pump
Great
I see that nicotine gum on the table good for you did it work for you? hope so.
Bill, help me out here. The two longer bed bolts (T-55), where is their placement? At the top of the bed close to the cabin, or at middle, or at the end close to the tailgate?
helpful
I just did this on my 2005 ranger, for an extra $60 I bought the whole assembly and just popped it in
Awesome, I wanted to get a complete unit too but at the time I needed it they didn't have one in stock.
i got an 08 Mazda b4000. would this be the same pump assembly
Do NOT use motor oil when screwing the ring back on. Oil degrades rubber! Use silicone lubricant if you feel it needs lubricating. You screw it on dry, regardless. For those who do use the special tool for the ring the torque specification is 30 foot pounds.
Or just buy the complete pump. 6 min mark in video. Its like 20 more. I need a new bed so this looks like a job to do when i do that.
I checked the prices, on a 2.5 with the short wheelbase, the pump assembly is around 260.00
Damn, got far into the project where I just nw realized the wire connectors are different :/
Cool video but you need someone to hold your camera.
I’ve been wondering if taking the bed off the truck was an easier option then dropping the tank it looks like it is. Thanks!
no workbench is complete without a pack of nicotine gum
My ranger seems like it's pulling and dragging. I replaced the fuel filter air filter o2 sensor. Have no idea why I can't get it to stop chugging along
Do u think it's the fuel pump?
If proper fuel pressure is present and each cylinder is in spec for correct spark, air volume and fuel spray...then meter test your MAF and TB. Confirm there are no Crankshaft or cam sensor faults.
The fastest (and by far easiest) way to do this is how I did it. see channel.
Great, now I am stuck with the dilemma of putting the bed back on or going bedless. :P
If u r in Florida ,the figuring out is done done.
I had to replace the license plate’s light bulb, I saw a spark, now my ranger 01 won’t start any more, I have checked all the fuses and relays and they are all fine. Do you think the fuel pump could be the problem?
Have 2005 ford ranger. Died out on me so took it to mechanic. Mechanic changed out fuel pump, and cleaned out fuel lines. Code P0353 showed up while doing diagnosis. Truck starts up and revs good. Just that when I get to 40 MPH truck starts to lose power and acceleration is no good. I then turn off engine let truck rest for 20 seconds then starts up just fine. Just again hitting the 40 MPH range looses power all the time . Please help anyone thanks .
808 Kamakazi check to see if the accelerator cable is not too stretched out. If it is you may need to replace it. Some times if it's too streched out it will not open the throttle plate to it's fullest and it'll starve of air.
When you turned your truck on why was it creaking like that ?
It's old.
quick release connector tool will not release line? may have to replace entire cap to tank. anyone have any ideas?
Should have gotten your parts are rockauto.com. The sock filters are only a few dollars and I got a whole new pump and assembly for around $112. The pump itself is only about $10-$20.
I bought a medium grade pump that came with full kit to appease multiple makes and multiple pump screens too for about $25 with free s&h
Good info, but - I would have drained the tank first for safety. Drop a tool, cause a spark, generate an obituary. Just a suggestion.
The risks we take. I usually wear a helmet and life jacket when taking a shower too. Can't ever be too careful these days.
I actually play with gasoline for kicks and next time you near some soil or sand pour a few ounces across it and light. While still "burning" & with flames, stomp out with shoe. Then agitate rapidly the same spot again with shoe. It should instantly reignite and flame up again. * Obviously let it exhaust all petro remaining before ignoring/leaving.
If I make this move happen imm a hýý ut þþý
A Chisel? How about a flat head screwdriver so you don't "chisel" off pieces of plastic from a tight clamp...
I give this an "f" fix your lighting sucks..use a camera person 😜
seems to me like ur doin a whole bunch more work than u need to, totally way 2 much !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Lori Evans thanks for your input fucking slack jawed bitch.
Maybe with all your vast knowledge you could at least enlighten us with what exactly it is you believe he went above and beyond with when considering the amount of work he put in. In other words, wtf are you talking about? This was fairly simple and straight-forward. Maybe what it is is that you really have no idea what you're talking about. I doubt you've ever picked up a screwdriver, much less changed the batteries in your vibrator or the fuel pump on a truck. So please...reiterate your point !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The fastest (and by far easiest) way to do this is how I did it. see channel.