I’m sitting on the side of the freeway waiting for a tow truck after my fuel pump on my 98 ranger went out. This video gives me much hope that this problem is easier to address than I thought. Thank you!
Always knew from "the forums" that taking the bed off was the way to go, but you've provided all the time-saving details omitted from those abbreviated tales of woe... kudos!
Dude!! One of the absolute BEST instructional videos that I have seen in years. Very concise, yet all important details covered. Excellent camera work! Stellar work!.....Of course I subscribed!
Awesome video. I the past I've had to let others do this type of work--cost was huge. I've got a 1994 Ranger 4x4 v6 4.0L and its a regular bed/cab. Now that everything has gone up (inflation), I've learned to do nearly all my repairs and maintenance--and it has save me thousand $$$. Thanks for posting. You've helped a lot!
Thank you for showing how to do it, you and your video helped give me the confidence to do mine. However EVERYTHING was different on my 2006 2.3 4 cyl lol I rented the tool you recommended, autozone tried giving me a different one so I pulled up your video and gave them the part number 🤣 but the fuel retainer tool didn't open up enough so I had to use the old hammer and screwdriver. It was one thing after another but if it wasn't for you I would have paid someone to do it so I still thank you and greatly appreciate it. Ps. Just to be clear I dont blame you for mine being different, I find it commical lol
Your a life saver brother, im doing the same repair on a 2002 Ford Ranger Xlt that i recieved when my Uncle passed away. Way easier then pulling the tank
Great informative video! Someone was looking for help and I found your video and shared it with them. Also helps me out cause I might have to change my fuel pump assembly. The other day my gas gauge dropped to empty and the fuel light came on right after filling the tank 😂 2 days later the gauge worked and was back to normal and a week later the same thing happened again. Watching the video definitely helped cause I didn’t want to drop a tank in my driveway. Mine is a 2004 Ranger XLT. I subscribed as well. 👏🤜🤛
Thanks for your video. I have found that you don't need a special tool to loosen the ring on the cover, just get a large size flathead screwdriver, put it against one of the ribs and hit it with a mallet counterclockwise to loosen it. Do the same clockwise to tighten it after the repair. There is also a cheap fuel line disconnector that is made of aluminum that goes for about 10 bucks at advance auto in their random tools section that is much better than the plastic pieces. I bought it when I couldn't find my plastic set. Works great.
You were lucky then. I had to borrow the tool from AutoZone...147 bucks deposit for a 28 dollar tool.😡🤬 The screwdriver truck was breaking chunks off the ring. Using the tool I needed a breaker bar to get ring loose. 🤷 my guess is someone replaced it before using a 300# gorilla for the installation tool 😁
Did this to replace the fuel pump. Removed the entire bed. Lucky I did because it revealed almost totally rusted out rear spring shackles. Replaced them and the tail pipe too while I had it off. Electric impact wrench was not strong enough. Had to use a breaker bar. Slow and tedious but no way could I drop the fuel tank.
If you cut a hole in the liner and bed as a hack the open hole is nice. Mine got used by squirrels to fill up the bed with say 3 gallons of acorns. Lol This is with a camper shell.
Excellent video , just bought a 2008 ford ranger 4.0 4x4 and the floater is not working properly and I wonder if there may be a way to just replace the floater or should I just replace the whole pump? Thanks for such a helpful video , nicely done👍
Nice music! Although I may drop the tank. It would take longer to slide the bed back, for removing the toolbox and bed liner would take longer. Also, I've got to drop the fuel tank to get to the blown brake line. Which chose to blow in between the fuel tank and the frame. 🤔🤷 The current fuel pump is 27yrs old and the original factory one.
The use of the removal kit is a great idea for sure, the clamps on the pump are made to be removed properly. I think a bit more care could have been take to remove the bed liner, taking it over the side and recklessly running it down the paint is not something I would do myself. A must always is to disconnect the battery.
How much did auto zone charge you rent the fuel pump kit? They quoted me $135 to rent it, but to buy it's $124 on Amazon. How did you go about renting the kit?
Hey mate, you seem to know your way around the fuel system. Do you know much about the fuel shut off solenoid in relation to the immobilizer? Was trying to locate it on the assembly you had out there but couldn't seem to see what was going on. Any advice would be much appreciated.
What fuel pump do you recommend for the job? I have been researching trying to make sure I get a good fuel pump so I don't have to redo the job a month later due to part failure like other people have been doing. I got lucky on the heater core....my uncle went through 9 of them until he got one that didn't leak. His dash is never going to be the same.
I will say, for some weird reason, the 112"/125" wheelbase use the same pump, the 118" uses a different pump, at least on the 3.0. I had to use a Ford specific VIN decoder to get my wheelbase, as the label was blank on the door jamb.
I traced my fuel pump problem all the way down to finding out the terminals on top of my pump housing did Not let power pass through to fuel pump wires.... Crazy!!!! Pump is good terminals on top of housing bad, replaced pump and assembly.
I had no idea the beds came off that easy . I had my broken fuel line near the tank fixed , and no telling how much money I saved by not having it towed.
I did not have a no start, in this case my issues were irrelevant since this did not fix the issue. Normally a bad fuel pump is indicated by the car barely starting or not starting at all and low fuel pressure at the fuel rail and at the fuel filter (which can be tested with a tool you can rent from your local auto parts store).
Dunno, lotta people opt to take the bed off, think they overestimate the difficulty of unbolting one side of the two straps out from under the truck, letting the tank halfway down, and disconnecting the lines and connectors and then just dropping the tank entirely. Especially if you're a guy like me with 2 toolboxes in the truck and bed bolts with an unknown level of corrosion. Obviously, wouldn't do it on a full tank, but I just put a drain bolt in the tank to solve that problem.
I mean I've done it both ways and I really prefer this to mucking around with dropping the whole tank. Dropping the whole tank tends to get messy especially if it happens to die when the tank is mostly full of fuel. A drain bolt would work but for people with easy to remove toolboxes or no toolboxes at all this is really a lot easier IMO.
I tried didn't work, I tried screwdriver and dead blow, was just breaking bits off of the ring. O Reilly has the tool for 28, loaner at AutoZone was 147 deposit 🤷 I still had to use a breaker bar on the ratchet, I think Hercules installed the previous one.
Maybe in Florida but in nys no way would you disconnect the bed would fall apart as you do it lol drop the tank and install new straps. If not cut a door in your bed 😊
I bought a 2000 4.0l with 115k miles and it starts up and runs really rough. When I give it any throttle it dies. I replaced maf sensor, intake air temp sensor, fuel filter, and a few more things. I ran a fuel pressure test and the highest that would get was just under 30psi and when i quit cranking the pressure drops instantly. Would that mean my fuel pump is probably my problem???
Yeah it's located on the fuel rail under the hood. It's right where the fuel line connects to the fuel rail which is under the intake manifold. You should see a silver bar running front to back on the engine under the intake manifold and just follow that until you see where it connects. There should also be a vacuum line attached to the top of the actual fuel pressure regulator.
How long did this take in a single day? I don’t think it took an hour, or more than four. I need to do this so I need to know how much time I need to set aside for having that done.
It should be much easier if you have help, it took me about 3 hours but that was because I was doing it by myself which complicated moving the bed off and because I didn’t rent the tools ahead of time to remove the lines or unscrew the top of the pump.
If you pull the fuel pump relay there is still some residual pressure, that residual is enough to start the car but it will die shortly after because there's not a constant supply of fuel.
Why did you replace it exactly if it still started ? I’m having issues where mine shut off when I stop but starts right back up and it only does it sometimes
I replaced it because I was trying to diagnose why my short and long term fuel trim were just consistently through the roof. The only logical conclusion I could come to at the time was that it was being caused by the fuel pump being too weak to provide what was being demanded by the computer. I think I ended up being wrong because I think this problem is still happening and I'm just ignoring it since the car still works fine.
@@Vegasofficial1 I did test for vacuum leaks and even went as far as to replace all the vacuum lines when I swapped the engine out but unfortunately that didn't change anything. I do have to swap the engine again in it (the one in there now was a temporary junkyard one) so I'll keep an eye out for anything off when I have it apart again.
Fuel pressure...replace inline filter, your gonna anyway... My pump was intermittent... When she stalls and sputters, check pressure by pushing the check valve on the throttle body, should squirt out.. gauge it if you have one..rangers like Thier fuel pressure.
its not the electic thats the problem its that's a very weak impact...i have one of those...its only 1/3 as strong as a medium milwaukee - a medium milwaukee will take almost anything out, and if it can't then the heavy one will 100%...i keep one of those in my tools for when you need the heavy artillery
Ok, I see this boy is doing it the hard way the bed liner is the simplest thing to remove. Any of you have an empty 5-gallon plastic bucket. You take the tailgate off. No need for the extra weight. Lift up the middle of the plastic liner shove bucket ass-end first push it as far as you can under the Bedliner. Now you have loosened up the bed liner on both sides it should just Popout. It's so stupid I did it the way he's doing it 2 times and found out the bucket trick
Thanks for the heads up, if I need to do the job again I’ll just lift it up, this is already one of the easiest cars I’ve had to do the fuel pump on since you don’t have to drain the tank or anything so I didn’t mind the few extra steps of just pulling the bed off, but hopefully your comment helps others.
Sure you got it by now... But remove the 3 7mm bolts around filler neck, and push it down... Mine was pretty stiff, and when it dropped,I squished my finger😡. Another thing the mudflaps kept me from being able to slide the bed back any further, but it gives plenty of room.
The reason your plastic fuel line tool didn’t work is because it’s the 5/16 one and that line is 3/8 which should be the blue one of the set. My plastic tool worked fine when I figured out that mistake
It would have been easier had you lifted the center of floot bed then you usea srew driver!! Lol plus you could have a better view on the back of you truck by just removing back door its easy to take off. You made things look harder😂
From my experience it's just always a lot easier to lift the bed when it's on a truck. Every time I've tried to drop a tank it turns out the bolts holding the straps in are in rough shape and either don't want to come out or barely want to go back in.
@@RKAdventures45 - Good point, if the truck has been used in areas where roads are salted in the winter. I happen to be within 100 miles of the Pacific coast where we rarely get snow and roads are never salted. Bolts on the undersides of 20-year-old vehicles can be loosened with little trouble.
@@Milosz_Ostrow Yeah, even though I'm located in the south it seems every car that I've needed to replace a fuel pump on has been from up north so this has just become my go to method. If the other method works better for you by all means do it that other way!
It's not necessary to completely remove all sixpaul sakes bolt you leave the last 2 on and You can lift bed up. Very good video though is good video no thank you
Wait till next time you have to replace the fuel pump. You just needed that hand tight. You make things difficult on yourself harder than they have to be.
Not the best video for me.... he misses so many things that there is no way to go thru....had to stop repeatedly scratching my head. For example i have no idea what he is doing around @7:00. Had to find other videos to complete the job. All in all, nice guy, well intended but not easy to follow. When you have to guess, and stop & rewind the video over 10 times you know the guy is screwing around. Just my honest opinion
Found On The Road Dead and Fox Or Repair Daily. Som e stereotypes are true. Well FORD rings true but if you want it you can say it out loud. But know Elizabeth Ford bet on KC to win and they own more of Boulder City making them Mormon s
I’m sitting on the side of the freeway waiting for a tow truck after my fuel pump on my 98 ranger went out. This video gives me much hope that this problem is easier to address than I thought. Thank you!
Definitely seems easy to do.
I could have written this same thing.
Rolling at 70 and it just quit.
A real Florida boy would drive around for 3 weeks with the bed removed, proud of his driveshaft, lol... ;')
lol if I had two people so I could actually lift the bed all the way off I would’ve!
I'm about to be that florida man lol
Damn u know we Floridians roll
Always knew from "the forums" that taking the bed off was the way to go, but you've provided all the time-saving details omitted from those abbreviated tales of woe... kudos!
Thanks bro lifesaver and money saver hell yea information goes crazy when you can actually obtain it
Dude!! One of the absolute BEST instructional videos that I have seen in years. Very concise, yet all important details covered. Excellent camera work! Stellar work!.....Of course I subscribed!
Awesome video. I the past I've had to let others do this type of work--cost was huge. I've got a 1994 Ranger 4x4 v6 4.0L and its a regular bed/cab. Now that everything has gone up (inflation), I've learned to do nearly all my repairs and maintenance--and it has save me thousand $$$. Thanks for posting. You've helped a lot!
One of the best videos I have seen, great detail.
Most excellent! That impact hammer/drill seems the way to go/ Better than a breaker bar and ratchets.
How can you tell if the fuel pump is really bad
Darn!! I gotta do this for a friend! No charge, of course!! Some 🍺! Alternative form of payment! Y'all be good. God bless!
Really detailed video thank you for taking the time to teach all us how to do this sir
Nice job on this video. Very clear and easy to follow. Thank you
Thank you from Alabama!! This helped me big time today!!
Thank you for showing how to do it, you and your video helped give me the confidence to do mine. However EVERYTHING was different on my 2006 2.3 4 cyl lol I rented the tool you recommended, autozone tried giving me a different one so I pulled up your video and gave them the part number 🤣 but the fuel retainer tool didn't open up enough so I had to use the old hammer and screwdriver. It was one thing after another but if it wasn't for you I would have paid someone to do it so I still thank you and greatly appreciate it.
Ps. Just to be clear I dont blame you for mine being different, I find it commical lol
Your a life saver brother, im doing the same repair on a 2002 Ford Ranger Xlt that i recieved when my Uncle passed away. Way easier then pulling the tank
Just used this video to fix my truck in record time. Thank you. Great, concise instructions.
Great informative video! Someone was looking for help and I found your video and shared it with them. Also helps me out cause I might have to change my fuel pump assembly. The other day my gas gauge dropped to empty and the fuel light came on right after filling the tank 😂 2 days later the gauge worked and was back to normal and a week later the same thing happened again. Watching the video definitely helped cause I didn’t want to drop a tank in my driveway. Mine is a 2004 Ranger XLT. I subscribed as well. 👏🤜🤛
Great video! Thank you for your detailed instructions....I'm pretty sure I'll be doing this very soon
Thanks for your video. I have found that you don't need a special tool to loosen the ring on the cover, just get a large size flathead screwdriver, put it against one of the ribs and hit it with a mallet counterclockwise to loosen it. Do the same clockwise to tighten it after the repair. There is also a cheap fuel line disconnector that is made of aluminum that goes for about 10 bucks at advance auto in their random tools section that is much better than the plastic pieces. I bought it when I couldn't find my plastic set. Works great.
You were lucky then. I had to borrow the tool from AutoZone...147 bucks deposit for a 28 dollar tool.😡🤬
The screwdriver truck was breaking chunks off the ring. Using the tool I needed a breaker bar to get ring loose. 🤷 my guess is someone replaced it before using a 300# gorilla for the installation tool 😁
Did this to replace the fuel pump. Removed the entire bed. Lucky I did because it revealed almost totally rusted out rear spring shackles. Replaced them and the tail pipe too while I had it off. Electric impact wrench was not strong enough. Had to use a breaker bar. Slow and tedious but no way could I drop the fuel tank.
And remember, Always disconnect your battery before working on electronical parts kids.
If you know what youre doing it doesnt matter
Excellent job creating this video and replacing the fuel filter! Thanks for making it look easy!
Brilliant thank you from the U.K.
Great video, My 1994 2.3 will be less stressful now.
Also got a 94 2.3 and I think I gotta do the same thing😂
@@MildAura How did your 94 ranger fuel pump change go? I'm hoping to do mine tomorrow.
Was the change out difficult? I'm going to attempt my 94 ranger.
If you cut a hole in the liner and bed as a hack the open hole is nice. Mine got used by squirrels to fill up the bed with say 3 gallons of acorns. Lol This is with a camper shell.
Great video, thanks for the detail!
I HATE MUSIC IN DIY VIDEOS........................except this one. lmao it slaps!
Excellent video , just bought a 2008 ford ranger 4.0 4x4 and the floater is not working properly and I wonder if there may be a way to just replace the floater or should I just replace the whole pump? Thanks for such a helpful video , nicely done👍
will this work for a 2004 ford ranger?
Holy crap just dropped the freaking fuel tank it's a lot easier than taking the liner off and taking a box off are you kidding me
Incredible thank you
Nicely presented
Nice music! Although I may drop the tank. It would take longer to slide the bed back, for removing the toolbox and bed liner would take longer. Also, I've got to drop the fuel tank to get to the blown brake line. Which chose to blow in between the fuel tank and the frame. 🤔🤷 The current fuel pump is 27yrs old and the original factory one.
Thank you sir.
The use of the removal kit is a great idea for sure, the clamps on the pump are made to be removed properly. I think a bit more care could have been take to remove the bed liner, taking it over the side and recklessly running it down the paint is not something I would do myself. A must always is to disconnect the battery.
How much did auto zone charge you rent the fuel pump kit? They quoted me $135 to rent it, but to buy it's $124 on Amazon. How did you go about renting the kit?
❤great fix video😮
Hey mate, you seem to know your way around the fuel system. Do you know much about the fuel shut off solenoid in relation to the immobilizer? Was trying to locate it on the assembly you had out there but couldn't seem to see what was going on. Any advice would be much appreciated.
Good advise
Thanks a lot will definitely help
Eagerly waiting for my fuel pump to go out so i can go flat bed.
Why did you change it? Trying to figure out if it’s the pump or filter
this is going to be me doing it myself insted of having someone else do it. just need to get the rhino lining off the bolts
Great video. Only thing is there a part number for that fuel pump?
Does the tailgate not come off? Just felt like the connector would have been easier with it removed as well as the box 🤷♂️
What parts store did you rent that kit from?
What fuel pump do you recommend for the job? I have been researching trying to make sure I get a good fuel pump so I don't have to redo the job a month later due to part failure like other people have been doing. I got lucky on the heater core....my uncle went through 9 of them until he got one that didn't leak. His dash is never going to be the same.
I will say, for some weird reason, the 112"/125" wheelbase use the same pump, the 118" uses a different pump, at least on the 3.0. I had to use a Ford specific VIN decoder to get my wheelbase, as the label was blank on the door jamb.
Good video!!
I traced my fuel pump problem all the way down to finding out the terminals on top of my pump housing did Not let power pass through to fuel pump wires.... Crazy!!!! Pump is good terminals on top of housing bad, replaced pump and assembly.
I had no idea the beds came off that easy . I had my broken fuel line near the tank fixed , and no telling how much money I saved by not having it towed.
Just curious did you have a no start is that how you knew the fuel pump is bad
I did not have a no start, in this case my issues were irrelevant since this did not fix the issue. Normally a bad fuel pump is indicated by the car barely starting or not starting at all and low fuel pressure at the fuel rail and at the fuel filter (which can be tested with a tool you can rent from your local auto parts store).
Dunno, lotta people opt to take the bed off, think they overestimate the difficulty of unbolting one side of the two straps out from under the truck, letting the tank halfway down, and disconnecting the lines and connectors and then just dropping the tank entirely. Especially if you're a guy like me with 2 toolboxes in the truck and bed bolts with an unknown level of corrosion. Obviously, wouldn't do it on a full tank, but I just put a drain bolt in the tank to solve that problem.
I mean I've done it both ways and I really prefer this to mucking around with dropping the whole tank. Dropping the whole tank tends to get messy especially if it happens to die when the tank is mostly full of fuel. A drain bolt would work but for people with easy to remove toolboxes or no toolboxes at all this is really a lot easier IMO.
I wonder if wrapping a strap around the lid, and running the ends through a box-end wrench might work similar to filter wrench.
Just take a chisel or big screwdriver and hammer it’s much faster and easier
I tried didn't work, I tried screwdriver and dead blow, was just breaking bits off of the ring. O Reilly has the tool for 28, loaner at AutoZone was 147 deposit 🤷 I still had to use a breaker bar on the ratchet, I think Hercules installed the previous one.
Maybe in Florida but in nys no way would you disconnect the bed would fall apart as you do it lol drop the tank and install new straps. If not cut a door in your bed 😊
I bought a 2000 4.0l with 115k miles and it starts up and runs really rough. When I give it any throttle it dies. I replaced maf sensor, intake air temp sensor, fuel filter, and a few more things. I ran a fuel pressure test and the highest that would get was just under 30psi and when i quit cranking the pressure drops instantly. Would that mean my fuel pump is probably my problem???
Did you figure it out?
@@mvc2177 replaced the fuel pump and that fixed everything
what size screw holds the hlbed to walls
Any idea where the fuel pressure regulator is located on a 2000 ford ranger 2.5??
Yeah it's located on the fuel rail under the hood. It's right where the fuel line connects to the fuel rail which is under the intake manifold. You should see a silver bar running front to back on the engine under the intake manifold and just follow that until you see where it connects. There should also be a vacuum line attached to the top of the actual fuel pressure regulator.
How long did this take in a single day? I don’t think it took an hour, or more than four. I need to do this so I need to know how much time I need to set aside for having that done.
It should be much easier if you have help, it took me about 3 hours but that was because I was doing it by myself which complicated moving the bed off and because I didn’t rent the tools ahead of time to remove the lines or unscrew the top of the pump.
You have any problems getting the bed aligned ?
No issues aligning the bed back on afterwards.
The white clip on the gas line is suppose to be pushed down to remove the line not pulled up .
How does the truck start an run the fuel out of line in the beginning?
If you pull the fuel pump relay there is still some residual pressure, that residual is enough to start the car but it will die shortly after because there's not a constant supply of fuel.
Why did you replace it exactly if it still started ? I’m having issues where mine shut off when I stop but starts right back up and it only does it sometimes
I replaced it because I was trying to diagnose why my short and long term fuel trim were just consistently through the roof. The only logical conclusion I could come to at the time was that it was being caused by the fuel pump being too weak to provide what was being demanded by the computer. I think I ended up being wrong because I think this problem is still happening and I'm just ignoring it since the car still works fine.
@@RKAdventures45 oh for sure you may just have a Vac leak somewhere unless you checked that
@@Vegasofficial1 I did test for vacuum leaks and even went as far as to replace all the vacuum lines when I swapped the engine out but unfortunately that didn't change anything. I do have to swap the engine again in it (the one in there now was a temporary junkyard one) so I'll keep an eye out for anything off when I have it apart again.
Fuel pressure...replace inline filter, your gonna anyway... My pump was intermittent... When she stalls and sputters, check pressure by pushing the check valve on the throttle body, should squirt out.. gauge it if you have one..rangers like Thier fuel pressure.
@@kenclarke4906 I’ve done the filter haven’t checked the fuel pressure I guess I’d have to buy something to test it properly right ?
its not the electic thats the problem its that's a very weak impact...i have one of those...its only 1/3 as strong as a medium milwaukee - a medium milwaukee will take almost anything out, and if it can't then the heavy one will 100%...i keep one of those in my tools for when you need the heavy artillery
If you have a engine hoist and some rope/come-a-long straps then use that to take the bed off. Makes it a 1 peson job.
Very good video, but at 1:20, that’s a
great way to scratch up the paint on the bed rails…
Spray some WD 40 on the bolts from under the bed making it much easier.
Ok, I see this boy is doing it the hard way the bed liner is the simplest thing to remove. Any of you have an empty 5-gallon plastic bucket. You take the tailgate off. No need for the extra weight. Lift up the middle of the plastic liner shove bucket ass-end first push it as far as you can under the Bedliner. Now you have loosened up the bed liner on both sides it should just Popout. It's so stupid I did it the way he's doing it 2 times and found out the bucket trick
Thanks for the heads up, if I need to do the job again I’ll just lift it up, this is already one of the easiest cars I’ve had to do the fuel pump on since you don’t have to drain the tank or anything so I didn’t mind the few extra steps of just pulling the bed off, but hopefully your comment helps others.
lol I had to get my bed off with 1/2 ratchet and a 24mm wrench for leverage.
Hmm weird I can not remove my bed with out removing the hose. What is the magic trick I missed that u didn't show. Lol
Sure you got it by now... But remove the 3 7mm bolts around filler neck, and push it down... Mine was pretty stiff, and when it dropped,I squished my finger😡. Another thing the mudflaps kept me from being able to slide the bed back any further, but it gives plenty of room.
Your first step was incorrect. U said 6 bolts. Some models have 8
The reason your plastic fuel line tool didn’t work is because it’s the 5/16 one and that line is 3/8 which should be the blue one of the set. My plastic tool worked fine when I figured out that mistake
Looks good, but too much for me. :-)
Screw that, just get out the grinder and cut an access hole in the bed. We do it with classic Volkswagens and toyota trucks. Much easier
Adding a little door under the bed liner is actually a super smart idea, my little ranger is too clean to cut up right now tho!! Lol
"Get the bed liner out"
Well... crap. Got an entire camper built into mine...
In your specific case you may be better off dropping the tank from the bottom
It would have been easier had you lifted the center of floot bed then you usea srew driver!! Lol plus you could have a better view on the back of you truck by just removing back door its easy to take off. You made things look harder😂
I would have opted for draining the fuel tank and dropping it instead of removing the truck bed.
From my experience it's just always a lot easier to lift the bed when it's on a truck. Every time I've tried to drop a tank it turns out the bolts holding the straps in are in rough shape and either don't want to come out or barely want to go back in.
@@RKAdventures45 - Good point, if the truck has been used in areas where roads are salted in the winter. I happen to be within 100 miles of the Pacific coast where we rarely get snow and roads are never salted. Bolts on the undersides of 20-year-old vehicles can be loosened with little trouble.
@@Milosz_Ostrow Yeah, even though I'm located in the south it seems every car that I've needed to replace a fuel pump on has been from up north so this has just become my go to method. If the other method works better for you by all means do it that other way!
It's not necessary to completely remove all sixpaul sakes bolt you leave the last 2 on and You can lift bed up. Very good video though is good video no thank you
6 bolts
You wouldn't have to rent that tool next time
Wait till next time you have to replace the fuel pump. You just needed that hand tight. You make things difficult on yourself harder than they have to be.
This thing gets beat around a lot more than average so I'd rather have it tighter for peace of mind, to each his own though.
The plastic removal tools work just fine. They just don't work for you
didn't work good for me either. I could not get the line loose no matter how hard I pulled and pushed the plastic tool!
😅
I cut that one off with a pipe cutter
more old inferior quality pollution causing salvage metal
Sh1t. I need more tools
Oh hell no!
Not the best video for me.... he misses so many things that there is no way to go thru....had to stop repeatedly scratching my head. For example i have no idea what he is doing around @7:00.
Had to find other videos to complete the job. All in all, nice guy, well intended but not easy to follow. When you have to guess, and stop & rewind the video over 10 times you know the guy is screwing around. Just my honest opinion
He’s replacing the fuel sending unit, if you buy the whole assembly this part is irrelevant, but he’s trying to save a couple bucks
Found On The Road Dead and Fox Or Repair Daily. Som e stereotypes are true. Well FORD rings true but if you want it you can say it out loud. But know Elizabeth Ford bet on KC to win and they own more of Boulder City making them Mormon s