1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 liter V6 water pump replacement. Part 1. Removal of the old water pump.
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- Опубліковано 9 лют 2025
- This is part 1 of the replacement of the water pump on a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 liter flex fuel V6 engine. The installation will be listed as part 2 here: • 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0 l... . Good luck. If you find this video useful, please hit the like button and subscribe especially if you think I might post something else useful to you, or you just need a laugh now and then. Thanks. April 2024 update: Since I apparently left out at least one important step, sorry I'm not sure how that happened, check the comments below. There are replies that cover at least the fan removal. There is also tool for that. I'll do a video on just that eventually. Thanks to all who comment and add instructions. The community is a very important resource.
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Have a great day. Keep in mind, if I can do it, you probably can too.
Really helpful video. Thanks for taking the time to make it! Im going to be tackling this on my '01 Ranger next weekend.
You skipped the whole part of removing the fan. That was the part that I needed to see. So many of you guys leave out the part I need to see. Pisses me off! I stuffed rags between the belts and the pulleys so it wouldn't turn. When I turned the wrench on that big nut, it just turned and turned and the fan didn't cone of the shaft. The shaft kept turning all along its length even though the belts were held stationary.
A small pipe wrench with the teeth biting the lip of the grooved water pump pully works just fine. It will stop it from turning while you tap the reverse-thread nut.
Wow. It looks like there is a segment missing. Very sloppy on my part. I think there is a tool for that avail at Autozone to borrow. I'll have to go into my vids and see if I can find it. The important issue here is that these are left hand threads.There is a short video on the tube here that shows simply jamming the pulley and using a crescent wrench on it. To break it loose you do need to smack it to break it loose. That makes all the difference in the world. Sorry I'll see if I can add it. Thanks for the heads up.
Remove two of the four bolts that hold the water pump pulley in place. Go to your local hardware and purchase two of the same thread type bolts, but 1-1/2 inch in length. Then thread these two longer bolts back into the pulley. This will allow you to go behind the pulley with a large screw driver. Place the screw driver in between these bolts, and use a large adjustable wrench to break loose the fan shaft. You turn the wrench to the right to loosen the blade. Once loosened, you can remove by hand. Prior to removing the fan, I cut a piece of cardboard and placed between the fan shroud to protect the radiator coil from incurring damage. To allow easier access to the (2) rear bolts that hold the Compressor & Power Steering Bracket, remove the Driver's side Tire. You can then use a Ratchet and extension to easily access these two bolts.
@@jameswordenjr.7628 Or just use the proper fan tool removal kit
well explained, very detail, Thank you
Awesome video
Thanks. I think I may have missed a step but maybe next time.
Buen video!.. 👍🏻
Muchas gracias y Feliz Navidad.
Just did it 😊
Great. Hope I helped a bit. Thanks.
Saludos, hay que echar el compresor a un lado para sacar los tornillos que quedan detrás del tensor o sacando el tensor solamente?
Al ver el video, no parece que se haya tenido que mover el compresor. Gracias.
My Ranger ain't neva left me stranded whereas my Chevy S10 ...can't keep that hunk of metal shit runnin.
Well I can only really comment on my Tahoe with it's mighty V8. In the 70's I had a 327 powered Camaro and it was unbreakable. Actually now that I think about it, I had an S10 Blazer with a 2.8. Other than having no balls, it was pretty decent. I have to admit, I had 3 '99 Ford's enter my life at once, and despite Ford not being able to decide on SAE or Metric hardware, using both, they were/are pretty easy to work on. 3.0 liter, and a 4.0 liter V6s and a 4.6 liter V8 have/had they. There must be a reason there are so many Ford trucks on the road. Despite my whining, they are solid machines, especially the older ones. They are hard to kill. My current ride is a '96 Chevy Tahoe with 327K miles. I hope to make 500K. Thanks.
Part 2?
Part 2 is the installation of the pump. It's on the channel somewhere. Thanks.
Take off the water pump pulley for easier access right after you take the fan off.
Thanks for the tip. I love more access. Easier to check out everything else you normally don't get to see.
You’re doing too much you don’t have to remove the radiator to remove the fan, shroud and water pump.
It's not a big deal to pull it and give yourself more room. Every time I've squeezed in to work against a radiator I think I've banged into it and bent the fins. I like the room without worrying about it. I haven't tried that but no doubt it can be done. Thanks for the comment, someone out there might want to do it that way. It's good to know that it's possible. Comments are one of the most valuable resources this forum has to offer. Tips from those who are actually doing the work can be the difference between success and failure or a simple repair vs a financial disaster. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
@@teammudshark6894 I prefer to have the extra room as well 👍🏽
@@teammudshark6894 Service manual says radiator stays in.
Thanks for the "official" info. I'm pretty sure the manuals have professional techs in mind and the time they get for the job. I just prefer the extra room that gives me the ability to get access to the front of the engine. I've had issues in the past with being "too slow" for paid work. In this case I had no such time requirements so I could take the extra time. As I mention often, it's a good policy that any time you have access to an area, you make use of it and inspect all you can see. Any time the belt(s) are off is when you can check for worn out bearings in any the the pulleys for example. I am not fond of having to do the minimum required. I've worked where the policy was in the case of squirrel nest covering the engine, was to simply open up a hole to get to the filler cap. No telling what other damage might be under that mess but a .25 labor allowance doesn't allow for cleaning it up and finding out. That stuff doesn't fly in aviation. Pun intended. "They can just come back if there's another problem". That's just no professional to me. I didn't last very long there. Success in "professional" auto mechanics depends on speed. In aviation, it's safety 1st lead by quality work with nothing left to chance. The classic response is "when flying, you can't simply pull over when the engine quits". Sorry for the rant. Thanks again for the confirmation that the radiator can stay in.
I don’t remember having all the metric bolts on my ‘89 Ranger. Is it the Mazda connection ?
So you have hit upon my main issue with Ford. For some reason they use a mix of SAE and Metric hardware spread out over the entire engine. It would be nice if they would keep it one or the other. I think you may have part of the answer. The Mazda connection. In this case at least. I ran into this a bunch on my '99 E150 van. Can't explain that one. I thought Ford was built in America. Just keep it in mind when the sockets/wrenches don't fit quite right. No problem for 1/2"/13mm but some others don't match up so good. Thanks.
How do you get the pulley off of the old water pump seriously need help thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry, I don't know how I missed that part. I know I have that clip somewhere. I hope you were able to find the info here on youtube. There are several methods. I used the special tool avail at Autozone.
10:00 wp pulley wheel.
What sealant did you use on the waterpump sealant/thread sealer?
It's actually "water pump and thermostat gasket sealer". Comes in a small tube. This video shows it. studio.ua-cam.com/users/videodTBONMM6Xuw/edit Thanks.
i use red RTV
Or a socket and long extencen
I was hoping to see some better pics and removal of the bolts at the back of the A/C compressor. Seems like all the videos skip it, or gloss over it. Guess I look at microfish for a better depiction of them.
If you are around yt, can you respond with infirmation or a video from anywhere. I can get ti the timing chain....but, why do they never show if we have to turn something or what or how to make sure the top and bittom spockets are lined up. Its like im right there but i have zero guys at home to teach me. There's a step...i know ditsmust be lined up but what if they aren't on tge timing chain. I have a ranger 95-3l, 2wd,xlt
So, the info you need depends on the engine you have. If you want to find it, enter "1995 Ford Ranger ( engine size ) timing chain replacement" in you tube. There should be videos for this. You might also want to just search that same thing in google. When the results come up, click on "images". There will be a bunch of pictures from different sources generally showing the timing pulleys and the alignment marks on the edge of the pulleys. The general rule will be to remove the timing cover, then rotate the engine until the timing marks are lined up before removing the chain/pulleys. When you re-install the new ones, you line up the pulleys the same way you took them off with the new chain on them. they should go right on in the correct position provided you don't turn the engine when they are removed. The keyways on the shafts should be in the correct position. Take the spark plugs out and use a wrench on the crankshaft pulley to turn the engine. You can also try to use the starter to "bump" the engine over until the marks line up. Surely, there are videos to show you all this. Good luck.
10 mm socket and a breaker bar
You don’t have to remove your shoes to remove the water pump
Thanks for the advice. I find it makes me feel more "grounded" in my work. Thanks for watching.
Terrible
You're not mechanic why you put your self in UA-cam isn't right boy
Wut
Why did you just work on water pump stop messing some else your ain't that good mechanic.
Why are you commenting when what you say makes no sense?
💕 "PromoSM"