A special thanks to Cobalt Keep for helping us continue to create great videos! www.cobaltkeep.com/ Coupon Code: EOB15 for 15% off Painting Hilt products!
I've found that using less flow improver and more thinner has helped my prime with airbrush game. Seems like where paint got a lil thick, the prime was weakest
Magnetize the fly base at the belly of the ship using 2 or 3 strong magnets in line or triangle so it doesn't spin. Weigh the base down heavy. If done right it won't tip over it'll seperate/fold over at the mate up point slowing it and reducing falling distance. Have you ever seen the glued on fly base tip, then someone tries to stop it by pushing down on the base edge that's lifted?....only to leverage swing it back even faster to flip over his hand or the inertia snaps the base off and the model is now flying off the table..😅😅😅I've done it and seen it lol it sucks ass
The Coruscant Police dropship is probably one of my favourite designs intrduced to star wars, as soon as they released the Legion version I bought one and now watching this makes me want another.
@dick danger Close, but it's still in the gunship family of ships. The actual TIE dropship is the TIE reaper, which was first seen in Rogue One and is a transport/dropship that is a part of the TIE family of ships.
Incredible, as usual. I'd say you painted them as nicely as the miniatures they made for the original films. Truly. And I appreciate you using a sponsor that's not only relevant to the hobby, but also makes things I actually want. The painting handle with connected light is genius.
This is a really nice video, when I was first getting into legion, I was trying to look up size comparison to 40k vehicles so I could show people how much more you model you were getting, but apparently no one has ever taken a picture of the two in the same shot
Heyo - noticed that you mentioned a couple times that you are rubbing too hard when clearing the oil wash. One of the important parts that seem missed is that you should varnish between your acrylic stage and your oil stage. This should help protect the time your spent painting and make the oil stage easier.
@@tobiaspieringer1653 Then he didn't use enough or apply it properly as a proper varnish stage would not be troubled by aggressive rubbing. You can't have it both ways either he should have no trouble or he messed up something. I am a big guy and I have never rubbed hard enough to have trouble with the varnish under coat. As someone who came to wargaming from enamel painting ww2 models, where a paint job will take days no matter what. Wargammers as a whole suffer from rushing their paint jobs almost uniformly. While I understand that they want to play the game it shouldn't be a problem to drop days into a single model. Its worth it if the paint job is important to you and setting arbitrary finish times just hurts the work in the end. Just remember that people have been painting figures long before wargamming existed. Even though acrylics have changed the world of painting you shouldn't try to ignore the years of experience that traditional painters have. These tips don't come from a place of anger but one of sharing and interest in supporting people's love of painting figures. I usually paint scrap pieces of plastic like the sprue and will often test my varnish on it to see how it looks as the protection coat will change the end result, hence why its always important to have both matt and gloss versions of the sealer/varnish you like to use. A gloss varnish is stronger as a matt varnish will compromise itself as it creates tiny pits in the coat to spread light so as to stop a shine. This effect also makes it much easier to paint over as the paint will stick better to the pitted surface. This is also why people will say to gloss varnish the whole object then come back with matt varnish to give the look you want. Good luck with your endeavors!
I just finished my LAAT/le that's been sitting on the shelf for over a year because it was an intimidating job, even for someone who's been painting minis for nearly 20 years. I like the oil wash, I hand lined every single panel by hand with a black ink. It took awhile but I really like the sharp contrast it gives. Not as realistic as your technique which is what scale modelers use, but I think it fits with the more exaggerated proportions of the tabletop minis. Both look really great and now I have to go get some of those troopers for my LAAT as well!
Your consistently my favorite mini content creator! Your light hearted nature and talent in multiple realms of miniatures gives me more inspiration to push my own hobby forward!
I've been watching your channel since 2014/2015 for base ideas and tutorials, and its incredible how much your techniques and painting style has improved over the years, I look forward to more of your work and passion for the miniature hobby.
Jay, they look amazing and I think the red tinted cockpit was the right way to go, thanks for putting me on to the Badger Ghost Tints, just off to buy some!
I recently returned to applying primer through my airbrush. I tend to follow the fully cured primer up with a thin layer or two of satin varnish. This acts like a sort of quick save, which I repeat once or twice on my way to a finished paintjob. The final coat of matt or satin varnish seals it all. No paint rubbed off yet on any of these minis. 😊
Also doing 2 or 3 coats of primer gives you a similar effect (since both acrylic primer and varnishes tend to use the same resin). Alternatively, if you have a very well-ventilated airbrush booth (or airbrush outside), you can use a lacquer-based primer, which is much tougher than acrylic.
Nice paint job, some interesting ideas in there. I make up toy soldier sets to give away, 1:32 for the 3-7 year olds and 1:72 for 7 and older. Personally I think Plasticweld or MekPak are the go-to glues for polystyrene (Mek also works on ABS plastics), they weld the part together. If you havent tried this kind of glue check out the Revel Contacta type, which comes with a nice applicator tube (if it blocks just play a flame over it). The liquid type I prefer is applied with a small paint brush. As they are going to get tossed around (mostly by parents trying to reclaim the dining table) I have to make them very solid. Just made a star trek style shuttle craft' in 1:32 from 2mm card (I think Americans call it chipboard), thick and hard to cut but very sturdy, especially reinforced with lolly sticks (popsicle sticks in the US I believe), tongue depressors and candy-floss sticks (3mm square stripwood, cheapest source I know of for this material but an alternative are extra-long matches sold for lighting barbecues) . Then I tried to paint it white using craft store white acrylic, not good. Losing patience with acrylics, they just do not cover as well as enamels (although their transparency can produce some neat effects). White house paint is not available in tester pots so I have ordered a white primer rattle can. We shall see. I'll try an oil wash (some panel lines were added using an empty ball-point pen).
When I was a little, little kid, I had some sort of Star Wars vehicle toy that I'd play with when I was in the bath, and I did it so many times the White coloring of it became really similar to the finished look of your Rebel vehicle. Somehow, your paint job was nostalgic for me.
I feel like maybe that I why I wasn’t enjoying vehicle painting as well. I just picked up that painting handle with the light on it. Thanks for the recommendation
Love the use of oil on both. The the grime on the Rebel Alliance Speeder Truck really reminds me of the 'lived in Sci-Fi universe' that Lucas created, giving off the same feeling as the dirty outer walls of the Lars farmstead or the kind of run down interior of the Millennium Falcon. The red-tinted forward-facing canopy of the cockpit works well, I think. It's very reminiscent of Vader's red eye lenses.
Man I‘ve been avoiding your videos cuzza the click baity names you give them, but I just started watching and I love your stuff! I love how positive you are. It’s great hearing someone just be stoked about war gaming.
I think you definitely made the right choice on that Imperial cockpit, it looks incredible! Maybe it just helped you learn that you don't need to spend quite as much time on the interior for the next one 😂
The Oil paints really worked like magic. Wonderful stuff. I am trying to get to my vehicles as well so, any good alternatives to the oil paints ? Could I use a thinned speedpaints or a wash for a similar effect ? Or maybe something else entirely?
I have never painted a vehicle at 28mm scale, as I've always thought them too big. I have whole companies of tanks in Epic scale and WWII micro armor, though.
When you were asking yourself which one to paint first, we all knew the rebel scum was going to be the test model. 😂 The troopers hanging off the air ship is epic!! Love it!!❤❤
The appropriate tool for the project is the tool you want BUT An acrylic wash you apply with a big brush and them immediately pull off with a rag is how they would have weathered it at ILM. It's also a fun way to weather and if you haven't tried it you should. My favorite videos about that would be Adam Savage's Tested videos on weathering since he worked at ILM for the prequels
Thanks for this review. I had no idea these two models were even out there. Just bought one of each and was both impressed by the quality and value - found then at £20.00 each including post. A comparable 40K vehicle would probably have been close to £60 EACH. As it is I am getting one more of each from the same seller and still am financially ahead of the game when compared to GW output. I dont collect the Star Wars Legion game models and they dont fit in well with the 40k environment (to clean and techy) but for other ranges such as Stargrave, Mantic and Deathfields they are perfect.
They look great! 👍 Amazing job. It is a little disconcerting about the paint rubbing off so easily. However, you did say curing time was likely the issue, and that does make sense.
hey man, im a scale modeller and have used oils alot, wha ttype of solvent did you use? If you used mineral turpentine or an off the shelf it reacts badly with acrylic paint usually. Ive found 2 heavy coats of aryclic or alternative and enamel, are good, gloss finish. as the oils will matte it down. Additionally, i recommend using burnt uber or any other kind of transparant pigment, the reason why is oil paints range heavily in opacity, and for grime you want something thats semi transparant, to assist with removal. Alternatively, a range of cheap water soluble oils exist if you dont wanna risk the paint, still varnish ofc but you should be good.
The best varnish I've ever used for oil painting is actually games workshops munitorum clear varnish. You can apply it and wait 10 mins and then go ham with oils & white spirits. If you need to just run panel lines I use vallejos gloss clear. The army painters varnish is really bad, white spirits remove it.
Brother, you know it's a bad thing. Models shouldn't be so big that you need two tables. Now, I'm not going to dwell on the fact that epic 40k was fantastic. If my shipment of epic 40k rules and pieces hadn't been lost in shipment when I was enlisted, I would still be playing that game today. It was fun. It was easy to get someone who never played before into the hobby. Painting was a breeze. Mounting was a breeze. And you can have in one 8-hour session a game that you could carry around in a small box or briefcase. Epic 40k is what I think about fondly often.
I've always like the idea of a Rebel Alliance general who's got a bit too much nostalgia for the CIS he used to serve in~ and so he uses a lot of Blue and Grey on his rebels gear~ with some... Surplus doids hehe
Thanks for the Clear glue tip! Also you're def scrubbing way too hard. Even with a thin coat of airbrush primer and unvarnished layers you should be pulling off paint. Add a tiny drop of mineral spirits to the sponge if a dry sponge isnt doing the job.
bro bro bro! one second at the beginning of the video that you will paint quickly, 3:01 the interior of this vehicle takes several hours :D? this is how it finally is :D anyway i like your videos
I have both of these models and I agree they are a pain to transport. But like you said theyre just too cool not to have. I painted my speeder truck in the same way u painted your black templar tank. I primed in black and sponged dark grey everywhere then I added some red markings using sponges to give it a beat up look. I use it in my Shadow Collective army and its awesome
If you like repainting/converting toys for poorhammer, I've seen a lot of people using the Lightyear toys for 28mm games like Stargrave, etc. The movie flopped, and they made way too many toys, so they're easy to find on clearance. You have to pay attention online though since they sell the same ships under different scales. Large variety of fighter styles, and the Armadillo ship makes a great Big Transport With Cargo Doors model.
A lot of guys try to add comedy relief jokes into their vids and it's usually not funny and cringe but you commend the effort lol your jokes actually had me randomly chuckling out loud haha great vids, you're a natural
Love the video, been consuming miniature painting videos a lot these few days. Just one question, how do you protect the paint. Do you spray them with varnish? And if yes, what kind?
If those troopers ever fall off, how about trying to magnatise them? it would be a really cool visual indicator durign a game for if the troopers are onboard or not so you can remove them when they disembark.
Painting question, how do you not get buildup on your gloves from "smearing" on the model you're doing. Do you periodically refresh you gloves or maybe wipe down the one you're using?
![Tatooine/Mos Eisley Buildings for Star Wars Legion - TRASH TERRAIN TUTORIAL - [DESERT TERRAIN EP.4]](/img/n.gif)
A special thanks to Cobalt Keep for helping us continue to create great videos! www.cobaltkeep.com/ Coupon Code: EOB15 for 15% off Painting Hilt products!
I've found that using less flow improver and more thinner has helped my prime with airbrush game. Seems like where paint got a lil thick, the prime was weakest
Magnetize the fly base at the belly of the ship using 2 or 3 strong magnets in line or triangle so it doesn't spin. Weigh the base down heavy. If done right it won't tip over it'll seperate/fold over at the mate up point slowing it and reducing falling distance. Have you ever seen the glued on fly base tip, then someone tries to stop it by pushing down on the base edge that's lifted?....only to leverage swing it back even faster to flip over his hand or the inertia snaps the base off and the model is now flying off the table..😅😅😅I've done it and seen it lol it sucks ass
@EonsOfBattle do you have a Telegramm Account or is there a scammer in your UA-cam comment section?
@@buckleyourpants6509 yeah, i wondered this…
i cant say i miss the 40k on your channel - games workshop cant contain your miniature-painting skills!!!
Awesome! Thank you for using some of our sculpts to take your vehicles to the next level!
SkullForge rocks!! 🤘🤘🤘
Did you guys make the awesome woolie?
The Coruscant Police dropship is probably one of my favourite designs intrduced to star wars, as soon as they released the Legion version I bought one and now watching this makes me want another.
After playing Jedi survivor I forgot how much I love the design. Literally a TIE drop ship
@dick danger Close, but it's still in the gunship family of ships. The actual TIE dropship is the TIE reaper, which was first seen in Rogue One and is a transport/dropship that is a part of the TIE family of ships.
8:27 I'm here for the RLM references
Incredible, as usual. I'd say you painted them as nicely as the miniatures they made for the original films. Truly.
And I appreciate you using a sponsor that's not only relevant to the hobby, but also makes things I actually want. The painting handle with connected light is genius.
If you think those are big, Creature Caster is going to rock your world! I'm using two of their 15.5 cm models as greater Daemons in 40k
0:34 This hurt my soul SO BAD.
This is a really nice video, when I was first getting into legion, I was trying to look up size comparison to 40k vehicles so I could show people how much more you model you were getting, but apparently no one has ever taken a picture of the two in the same shot
Woh, never loved the battlepigs, but that brief glimpse of the mini changed my mind. Well done!
Heyo - noticed that you mentioned a couple times that you are rubbing too hard when clearing the oil wash. One of the important parts that seem missed is that you should varnish between your acrylic stage and your oil stage. This should help protect the time your spent painting and make the oil stage easier.
He did.
@@tobiaspieringer1653 Then he didn't use enough or apply it properly as a proper varnish stage would not be troubled by aggressive rubbing. You can't have it both ways either he should have no trouble or he messed up something. I am a big guy and I have never rubbed hard enough to have trouble with the varnish under coat. As someone who came to wargaming from enamel painting ww2 models, where a paint job will take days no matter what. Wargammers as a whole suffer from rushing their paint jobs almost uniformly. While I understand that they want to play the game it shouldn't be a problem to drop days into a single model. Its worth it if the paint job is important to you and setting arbitrary finish times just hurts the work in the end.
Just remember that people have been painting figures long before wargamming existed. Even though acrylics have changed the world of painting you shouldn't try to ignore the years of experience that traditional painters have. These tips don't come from a place of anger but one of sharing and interest in supporting people's love of painting figures. I usually paint scrap pieces of plastic like the sprue and will often test my varnish on it to see how it looks as the protection coat will change the end result, hence why its always important to have both matt and gloss versions of the sealer/varnish you like to use. A gloss varnish is stronger as a matt varnish will compromise itself as it creates tiny pits in the coat to spread light so as to stop a shine. This effect also makes it much easier to paint over as the paint will stick better to the pitted surface. This is also why people will say to gloss varnish the whole object then come back with matt varnish to give the look you want. Good luck with your endeavors!
I just finished my LAAT/le that's been sitting on the shelf for over a year because it was an intimidating job, even for someone who's been painting minis for nearly 20 years. I like the oil wash, I hand lined every single panel by hand with a black ink. It took awhile but I really like the sharp contrast it gives. Not as realistic as your technique which is what scale modelers use, but I think it fits with the more exaggerated proportions of the tabletop minis. Both look really great and now I have to go get some of those troopers for my LAAT as well!
Your consistently my favorite mini content creator! Your light hearted nature and talent in multiple realms of miniatures gives me more inspiration to push my own hobby forward!
I've been watching your channel since 2014/2015 for base ideas and tutorials, and its incredible how much your techniques and painting style has improved over the years, I look forward to more of your work and passion for the miniature hobby.
So comprehensive, and so many golden nuggets on how you paint and what methods or materials (like silly putty) you use!!!
Hey jay. I’ve also found that after priming you let the model sit a day. That helps prevent the scrapping issue
Really well done, and they looked like a lot of fun to paint! I very much like how you got the glowing console screen effects on the speeder.
Jay, they look amazing and I think the red tinted cockpit was the right way to go, thanks for putting me on to the Badger Ghost Tints, just off to buy some!
I recently returned to applying primer through my airbrush. I tend to follow the fully cured primer up with a thin layer or two of satin varnish. This acts like a sort of quick save, which I repeat once or twice on my way to a finished paintjob. The final coat of matt or satin varnish seals it all. No paint rubbed off yet on any of these minis. 😊
Also doing 2 or 3 coats of primer gives you a similar effect (since both acrylic primer and varnishes tend to use the same resin). Alternatively, if you have a very well-ventilated airbrush booth (or airbrush outside), you can use a lacquer-based primer, which is much tougher than acrylic.
Nice paint job, some interesting ideas in there. I make up toy soldier sets to give away, 1:32 for the 3-7 year olds and 1:72 for 7 and older. Personally I think Plasticweld or MekPak are the go-to glues for polystyrene (Mek also works on ABS plastics), they weld the part together. If you havent tried this kind of glue check out the Revel Contacta type, which comes with a nice applicator tube (if it blocks just play a flame over it). The liquid type I prefer is applied with a small paint brush. As they are going to get tossed around (mostly by parents trying to reclaim the dining table) I have to make them very solid. Just made a star trek style shuttle craft' in 1:32 from 2mm card (I think Americans call it chipboard), thick and hard to cut but very sturdy, especially reinforced with lolly sticks (popsicle sticks in the US I believe), tongue depressors and candy-floss sticks (3mm square stripwood, cheapest source I know of for this material but an alternative are extra-long matches sold for lighting barbecues) . Then I tried to paint it white using craft store white acrylic, not good. Losing patience with acrylics, they just do not cover as well as enamels (although their transparency can produce some neat effects). White house paint is not available in tester pots so I have ordered a white primer rattle can. We shall see. I'll try an oil wash (some panel lines were added using an empty ball-point pen).
Was not expecting a Half in the Bag reference. Great video guys
Great video, love how you did the red stripe, it looks perfect!!
Beautiful work! You did a amazing job. Thanks for sharing these
Great work - Absolutely right that big vehicles can be more like terrain projects than miniatures when planning, building, and painting
When I was a little, little kid, I had some sort of Star Wars vehicle toy that I'd play with when I was in the bath, and I did it so many times the White coloring of it became really similar to the finished look of your Rebel vehicle. Somehow, your paint job was nostalgic for me.
I have no interest in playing table top games but I love watching your videos. Great enthusiasm and ultra talented, bravo.
I bet Byron watches these videos lately with pride knowing he is helping you dry brush better than before
I feel like maybe that I why I wasn’t enjoying vehicle painting as well. I just picked up that painting handle with the light on it. Thanks for the recommendation
These models are such fun to have on the tables and they really make for super fun gaming moments. Love that you did this. Keep it up!
Love the use of oil on both. The the grime on the Rebel Alliance Speeder Truck really reminds me of the 'lived in Sci-Fi universe' that Lucas created, giving off the same feeling as the dirty outer walls of the Lars farmstead or the kind of run down interior of the Millennium Falcon.
The red-tinted forward-facing canopy of the cockpit works well, I think. It's very reminiscent of Vader's red eye lenses.
Man I‘ve been avoiding your videos cuzza the click baity names you give them, but I just started watching and I love your stuff! I love how positive you are. It’s great hearing someone just be stoked about war gaming.
I don't collect Star Wars but I'm gonna get that Imperial ship for sure.
I think you definitely made the right choice on that Imperial cockpit, it looks incredible! Maybe it just helped you learn that you don't need to spend quite as much time on the interior for the next one 😂
That red glass is fantastic.
I super appreciate how you are doing OGA. I just pray that this continues through the year. 😊❤❤❤
The Oil paints really worked like magic. Wonderful stuff.
I am trying to get to my vehicles as well so, any good alternatives to the oil paints ? Could I use a thinned speedpaints or a wash for a similar effect ? Or maybe something else entirely?
In 25 easy steps.
A perfect synapsis for an eons vid
I don't think I've ever heard 'intimidating wiggle' before. Thank you, Jay.
I have never painted a vehicle at 28mm scale, as I've always thought them too big. I have whole companies of tanks in Epic scale and WWII micro armor, though.
Love the fact you can see through the cons to the real and only reason they exist. The fun factor!
Amazing job ! Especially the LAAT with these ascension cables ! You made me want to buy one 😄
When you were asking yourself which one to paint first, we all knew the rebel scum was going to be the test model. 😂 The troopers hanging off the air ship is epic!! Love it!!❤❤
The appropriate tool for the project is the tool you want BUT
An acrylic wash you apply with a big brush and them immediately pull off with a rag is how they would have weathered it at ILM. It's also a fun way to weather and if you haven't tried it you should. My favorite videos about that would be Adam Savage's Tested videos on weathering since he worked at ILM for the prequels
Great project! Thanks you Jay for doing something non-warhammer from time to time.❤
These two both came out great!
Too big for Wargaming?
>Looks back at my cabinet choke full of Imperial Guard vehicles.
*chuckles* "I'm in danger."
Thanks for this review. I had no idea these two models were even out there. Just bought one of each and was both impressed by the quality and value - found then at £20.00 each including post. A comparable 40K vehicle would probably have been close to £60 EACH. As it is I am getting one more of each from the same seller and still am financially ahead of the game when compared to GW output. I dont collect the Star Wars Legion game models and they dont fit in well with the 40k environment (to clean and techy) but for other ranges such as Stargrave, Mantic and Deathfields they are perfect.
0:31 also decreasing... Like 3mm and 2mm dudes are thing now.
Now I kind of want him to print and try and paint some of those massive 3D print vehicles.
They look great! 👍
Amazing job. It is a little disconcerting about the paint rubbing off so easily. However, you did say curing time was likely the issue, and that does make sense.
hey man, im a scale modeller and have used oils alot, wha ttype of solvent did you use? If you used mineral turpentine or an off the shelf it reacts badly with acrylic paint usually. Ive found 2 heavy coats of aryclic or alternative and enamel, are good, gloss finish. as the oils will matte it down. Additionally, i recommend using burnt uber or any other kind of transparant pigment, the reason why is oil paints range heavily in opacity, and for grime you want something thats semi transparant, to assist with removal.
Alternatively, a range of cheap water soluble oils exist if you dont wanna risk the paint, still varnish ofc but you should be good.
Spotted that Destroyer Pig on your desk at 3:13. Where are all the Relicblade videos?!
Impressive. Also, this could have bern two videos. So cool you did it in one.
Amazing modelling work J.
The best varnish I've ever used for oil painting is actually games workshops munitorum clear varnish.
You can apply it and wait 10 mins and then go ham with oils & white spirits.
If you need to just run panel lines I use vallejos gloss clear. The army painters varnish is really bad, white spirits remove it.
I loved the 'Just 25 easy steps'! - very enjoyable!!
I couldn't help but spot a cheeky little destroyer pig on the painting table. I can't wait for the Relicblade video 😍
8:29 At first I didn't pick up on the reference, BUT MY BRAIN DID
Both of these look amazing. Great work!
So in armada, the ship version of legion, we have the super star destroyer and it's generally called a 'maxature' instead of a minature
Brother, you know it's a bad thing. Models shouldn't be so big that you need two tables. Now, I'm not going to dwell on the fact that epic 40k was fantastic. If my shipment of epic 40k rules and pieces hadn't been lost in shipment when I was enlisted, I would still be playing that game today. It was fun. It was easy to get someone who never played before into the hobby. Painting was a breeze. Mounting was a breeze. And you can have in one 8-hour session a game that you could carry around in a small box or briefcase. Epic 40k is what I think about fondly often.
Jay I use mostly oils. If you use a lacquer or oil varnish it will get pulled up by the makeup sponge. I think the wash reactivates it.
8:27 did you just make a red letter media reference 😳
I've always like the idea of a Rebel Alliance general who's got a bit too much nostalgia for the CIS he used to serve in~ and so he uses a lot of Blue and Grey on his rebels gear~ with some... Surplus doids hehe
F14 Tomcat, eh? Mine was an AH6 Apache attack helicopter and, hoo boy was it rough! Lol
Great work on these vehicles, dude. They’re so wizard!
Very snazzy video!!! I seriously am loving this month theme :3
I love the hog mini at 3:17 , where is it from?
When I saw the thumbnail I said "Is that a LAAT/LE!?"
Hi there. Great job the vehicles. Could I ask what you used to thin down the oil paint please.
I used the rebel transport as a spaceship for stargrave, i magnetized the roof so it can be used as terrain
You can make a hinge ore magnets for the wind shield
Great stuff Jay! May I ask what Speed Paint you used for the Empire Pilots ? 😊🙏🏼
Love that rebel party bus. The scale of SW Legions is so nice.
To avoid the rubbing off of paint, have you ever tried a mat varnish coat as a last step?
Thanks for the Clear glue tip! Also you're def scrubbing way too hard. Even with a thin coat of airbrush primer and unvarnished layers you should be pulling off paint. Add a tiny drop of mineral spirits to the sponge if a dry sponge isnt doing the job.
Have you tried building gunpla? If you wanted to, I recommend the MG Barbatos or MG strike Noir.
The bus looks like star tours that's freaking awesome!
bro bro bro! one second at the beginning of the video that you will paint quickly, 3:01 the interior of this vehicle takes several hours :D? this is how it finally is :D anyway i like your videos
I have both of these models and I agree they are a pain to transport. But like you said theyre just too cool not to have. I painted my speeder truck in the same way u painted your black templar tank. I primed in black and sponged dark grey everywhere then I added some red markings using sponges to give it a beat up look. I use it in my Shadow Collective army and its awesome
Very good job ! I tried to find the same floral wires but with no luck... any idea where I could find them ?
If you like repainting/converting toys for poorhammer, I've seen a lot of people using the Lightyear toys for 28mm games like Stargrave, etc. The movie flopped, and they made way too many toys, so they're easy to find on clearance. You have to pay attention online though since they sell the same ships under different scales. Large variety of fighter styles, and the Armadillo ship makes a great Big Transport With Cargo Doors model.
Call me peanut butter and jelly!!!!! Those are some good looking transports!!!!!! Big minis are so cool!!! Thanks gents!! Fantastic as always!!!!
A lot of guys try to add comedy relief jokes into their vids and it's usually not funny and cringe but you commend the effort lol your jokes actually had me randomly chuckling out loud haha great vids, you're a natural
Got these sukers sat waiting to get some paint slapped on them. I love the Legion ships.❤ Great job🙌🏻
Awesome vid, guys!
More Legion content is what we need!
Love the video, been consuming miniature painting videos a lot these few days. Just one question, how do you protect the paint. Do you spray them with varnish? And if yes, what kind?
Totally digging your foray into Legion!
If those troopers ever fall off, how about trying to magnatise them? it would be a really cool visual indicator durign a game for if the troopers are onboard or not so you can remove them when they disembark.
Jay definitely eats glue on a regular basis.
Relicblade! love how you painted that guy.
I like the paint scraping off, it makes it look battle dammaged
Awesome man. Another great video. But what’s with the scrunchie on your wrist
Awesome video! Where did you get the rebel passengers?
Looks great! Maybe use some magnets for the front window
The bus is fantastic. Reminds me of the ship from Star Tours.
Did you use a clear coat before applying the oil washes?
Awesome work! They look amazing. Would have went with a drop ship camo for them 👍
Painting question, how do you not get buildup on your gloves from "smearing" on the model you're doing. Do you periodically refresh you gloves or maybe wipe down the one you're using?
Where did you get the extra wookiee and rebel mini?!
Excellent work! These both look fantastic! That Empire model is definitely going to hit the ground one day and totally explode haha good luck