We ended up exchanging this model for the slimmer version ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx0jZ_lGlDVJhDnmagEU8gn47cmfPNlLQU because it was too wide for the only door trim area that made sense to mount it on. However, we should have just noted the dimensions prior to purchasing. Otherwise, we love the doorbell. It works perfectly, and the video is very clear, even at night.
Great video - I installed this several months ago! The one thing I did differently was feed the USB cable through the center hole in the bracket instead of one of the side holes. This allows you to keep the charging cable completely hidden, and the keypad fits snugly into the bracket completely.
Thanks ordered 2x of these for my upstairs and downstairs keypad. Worked like a charm.. I used wire nuts in addition to electrical tape. I posted this video on my community Facebook page for other who may have ring alarm system. Expect some more business coming your way.
Just installed mine and it works great. Thanks for the vid. Folks if you're going to do this make sure you TURN OFF THE POWER to the old alarm pad before touching those wires AND cap off the wires that you are NOT using any longer with wire caps and NOT just electrical tape also use the caps to connect the red to red and black to black wires.
@@franciscochavez6119 from your circuit breaker panel. Figure out which one controls the power to the keypad and turn it off while connecting. Five minute job max.
Or, you can unplug the power to your security system if you know where the plug is located. Also, remove the leads from the battery back-up if you have one in your existing alarm panel so the system is totally dead.
Thank you for posting this. I went on Amazon and the converter is no longer available. But I did find another one in case anyone is wondering. SMAKN DC/DC Converter 12V/24V/36V/48V Step Down to 5v 3A(MAX) Power Supply Module MICRO USB OUTPUT
My Ring keypad was fully charged when I wired it to your converter. I also purchased, and am using, your recommended transformer (DC current at 12V). Since the keypad is already fully charged, how do I tell if the keypad is receiving power from the hardwiring since the battery charging light won't be blinking? P.S. your video was extremely helpful, informative, and clearly explained.
After I figured out that my alarm transformer is AC, I reconnected it to my old alarm panel and used the DC output terminals to power your step down converter. Not as clean as I'd like, but worked out. Is there a AC to DC converter that will supply enough power for two of your converters?
Great Job ...I just have to ask one thing...The battery life last about a year .... and its really quick to charge the keypad... if needed... so why go through all that mess ?? I'm just saying...great job again
Hi Super Nova. For those that are switching from traditional alarm systems, they want the same experience... to have the keypad in the same location as the one they are replacing with Ring (and to reuse wiring that is already in place) and there’s a mentality to set it and forget it. Yes, the battery may last a long time, but it’s preferred by many not to even worry about that :)
Do you mind me asking how you found the wires, I have a electrical light switch directly under my key pad is there a way I can connect it without having to use trunking? Thanks
Hi Josh. So the best way to get from 120V to our converter is always going to be via low voltage wiring. You can't tap directly into the 120V line, but what you can do is as follows. Run low voltage wiring (bell wire works very well) to the spot where you want to place your Ring Keypad. At the spot where you started your low voltage wire run, connect the wire to this device (www.amazon.com/MG-MGT2412DV-Current-Transformer-60/dp/B002IS1UW4) and make sure you connect to the 12VDC terminals. Once that is done, plug the transformer into a nearby outlet and you will now have the correct voltage going to the Ring Keypad location. You can now connect our converter to the wires at the Ring Keypad location.
You can adjust the brightness of the leds, but that doesn’t effect the battery light. Having the battery light on is a good indication that the keypad is still receiving power. The only way to turn the light off is to unplug the keypad.
This is a great video, thank you. My question is I disconnected the power to my old alarm system control box to stop the siren from sounding. My plan is to remove the old control box altogether. However, one consequence is that there is no power to any of the alarm keypads. So I can hardwire the Ring keypad, but there will not be power. Is there any way to correct this issue and feed power to the wiring that was formerly connected to the old keypad?
Hi Patrick, Great question and this comes up a lot. I'm actually going to do a video soon on how to solve this. In your case, look at your old control box and find the wires that were providing the power to the previous key pad. Disconnect those wires from the old control box and attach them to this device (www.amazon.com/MG-MGT2412DV-Current-Transformer-60/dp/B002IS1UW4) make sure you connect the wires to the 12VDC terminals, then just plug the transformer into an outlet. You will now have the necessary power being delivered to the wiring that the formerly connected keypad was using. At this point, connect our converter to those wires and attach to the Ring keypad and you will be good to go.
this is great ... had a look at my old system the key pad is connected with 4 wires and not sure if they are the same as your black and red low voltage ones. im currently using Honeywell looks like 6160 display keypad. any idea if your converter will work with this? thanks
Yes, the Honeywell 6160 runs on low voltage DC power so the power being sent is what our converter needs. The color of the wires don’t need to match exactly. You just need to determine which two wires are providing the power to the Honeywell keypad and then connect those to our converter. If the Ring is not getting power after you connect those wires, flip them and it should work then. For example, if you had a blue connected to our red and a white connected to our black, flip it so blue now connects black and white connects to red.
Hi. I’m new to home security and am shopping for the product that will fit my needs. So my guess is ... the main purpose for hardwiring the keypad is so you don’t have to change batteries. Are there any other benefits I’m missing? Thanks!!!!
Yes, the main benefit is not to worry about charging the keypad, but it's also a benefit for those that have an existing alarm system that they are replacing with Ring. This method allows the Ring alarm to replace the old alarm keypad and reuse the wiring that is already in place. Welcome to the exciting world of home security and automation :)
j4home automation Thank you for video and your response! It is very exciting. I’m enjoying learning about all the intricacies thanks to experienced people like you. It will definitely help me to make an educated decision before my purchase. 😀😉.
The colors are not important, you need to find the 2 wires that were providing power to the previous keypad. If you have a voltage meter you can test each wire for a voltage reading. If you don’t want to go this route, you can look at the previous alarm panel and see which colored wires are connected to the power terminal.
Want to make sure I understand your question correctly. You have one 12VDC power source coming in and you want to connect two converters to that one source to power a ring keypad and a eufy camera? If I have that correct, it should work as long as the camera is micro usb and requires 5VDC power.
The wires coming out of the wall, they lead to the 'box' upstairs but the wires upstairs aren't connected to anything. What is best way to connect those wires into something to power everything?
Hi Arujan, there's an easy solution for this. Where the wires are in the 'box' upstairs, take the wires that will carry the power (I'm assuming you have confirmed that they are low voltage) and connect them to this device ( www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/ ) make sure you connect to the 12VDC terminals. Once that is done, plug the transformer into an outlet and you will have power going to the location where you want to install our adapter and Ring key pad. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thank you very much, I can't seem to find this transformer in Toronto, Canada. Doesn't seem like they deliver to Canada. Do you know if this is a similar product: www.amazon.ca/Rollerhouse-Transformer-Adapter-100-240V-Transformers/dp/B07TZBDHMF
We have been in constant contact with our supplier and should be receiving a new shipment soon... within the next week. Amazon has put restrictions on receiving non-essential items before April 1st, so I’m anticipating being fully restocked in Amazon the first week of April.
Hi Joe, the adapter fits the gen 2 just fine. It just takes a bit more effort and you need to make sure the connection is laying completely flat. We have had an issue with our supplier where sometimes the connection is bigger than others so maybe you got one of those units, I’m sorry about that. If you send me your mailing address (john@j4media.com) I would be more than happy to send you a unit that I’ll test to connect successfully to the gen 2.
So my existing Honeywell security box uses the green and yellow as 9vdc and gnd. My red and black are not used. I bought your converter and use the green and yellow but get pin rejected. Should I used the red and black at this point?
Hi Chi, I don’t think the wires are the problem. It’s likely the power source from your Honeywell box. I would disconnect the green and yellow (or you can use the unused red and black) and connect it to this device www.amazon.com/MG-MGT2412DV-Current-Transformer-60/dp/B002IS1UW4/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=current+transformer&qid=1597196645&sprefix=current+tran&sr=8-13 Make sure you connect to the 12VDC terminals and plug into an outlet (hopefully you have one near your Honeywell box)
This is a great video. How did you get the power converter behind the wall? Did you have to open up the hole to get it in there? Did you just cram it in the wall or did you somehow affix it so it's held in place? If you had to open up the hole more to get it in, did you patch up the hole before putting the keypad on there? Thanks for the help.
The converter fit though the existing hole, no need to open it up more. Just be sure to put the converter behind the wall before you put the bracket on the wall.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thank you. Did you somehow attach the converter kit to something behind the wall, or did you just cram it in there and it holds it in place? Also, is it against code to have the power converter behind the wall?
One other question. Is there any difference from this power converter to the one that you linked above? It's $3 cheaper (I would have to buy 3 of these so it's pretty much $10 in savings for me). www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEESLZ6/ref=psdc_10967761_t1_B07RDGR9GF
For your first question, the converter just hangs behind the wall. The wire that comes out of the wall is tight enough against the bracket that is keeps the converter from falling behind the wall. The difference between the converter that I link and the one you listed is the one I link has been tested to work with the Ring key pad...I'm not sure about the other one.
I have zero electrical skills. Lol. I just bought one of these alarm system as well and want to hard wire it. I ordered both kits you have here listed. Looks like all I do is match and connect the wires to the power converter then connect that to the wall wart adapter and plug that into any nearby outlet and I'm done? Is that correct? Thx
Hi Robert. Yes, you have the general idea. Couple of clarifications: You make the connections on separate ends of the low voltage wire. The end coming out of the wall where you are going to install the ring keypad gets connected to the j4home converter. The other end; which will terminate somewhere else (preferably by an existing wall outlet) will be connected to the wall adapter. Be sure to consistently use the red and black low voltage wires. Many times there are other colored wires in the feed, just wire nut those off and ignore them. Good luck. Comment back if you run into trouble.
Worked perfectly thx... Now just trying to figure out how to run it behind the wall safely to the closest outlet. Should I electrical tape the connections?
@@bobguzman9970 Well hopefully you didn't do this (What you described in your question) to add it to a 110 plug, because this is meant to convert low voltage power to a different low voltage power and Micro USB end that then plugs into the Ring keypad. The Ring Gen 2 keypad already comes with a 110W power source.
Thanks very much for this very helpful video. I have a question. My current DSC system simply plugs into an outlet and has a Rechargeable 12 Volt 7.0AMP hr DC battery backup. Since Ring already has a battery backup, I assume there is no reason to maintain that battery as an additional backup. Is that correct? Thanks for any insights on this. Bill
Hi William, that is correct. You don’t need the DSC battery backup, that would only be for the DSC panel. If you lose power, the Ring keypad battery will kick in.
May be a dumb question but here goes.... I have an existing alarm I am removing. When I connect this to use the power wires from that alarm, where is it pulling power? IE Do I need to leave all the old alarm electronic boards hooked up in the wiring enclosure in my closet? I am assuming there is some power source there? Is that the batteries for the old alarm?
Hi Christopher. Not a dumb question at all. Yes, the wires are currently providing power so you want to keep the black and red (most likely) wires connected to your old board. You can remove all the other wires connected to the board if you'd like as you won't need them. Before disconnecting anything, take a look at your board and you should be able to determine which ones are providing the power. Comment back if you have further questions.
I have an existing home security that came with the house. It doesn’t work anymore (I think the wiring were cut in the telephone box) is there a way to reconnect it? There are a lot of wiring in the telephone box. Thanks.
This worked great - thanks so much! I also have motion detectors from an old alarm system powered by low voltage wires. Since the ring indoor plug-in cameras also use a USB connection for power supply, do you think this solution would work for them?
Hi Rod, you’re welcome, glad we helped you out. If the cameras are using micro USB and the power being supplied to them are from the same source as your keypad or a separate source sending DC power then this solution will work just fine.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thanks - I figured it will work. I ordered a camera and I know it takes USB - Ring keypad, Ring Indoor Plug-in Cam... I will test it out on the USB adaptor for the keypad, but I am confident you are right and it will work just fine. Thanks again!
See if you can verify the voltage in those wires. Not all USB connections are created equal. In other words it may be giving less than the recommended volts, or worse more. The charging unit that came with the keypad should state the recommended voltage to charge the unit. Ensure your existing USB cable is within this window.
so i have a gen2 keypad and live in hurricane alley if i do this type of installation when i lose electricity will my keypad still work until the battery fades?
Excellent video! Instructions clearly stated. Do you know when the power converter will be available again on Amazon (of if it can be purchased elsewhere)? Thanks!
@@j4homeautomation97 Great! I've ordered and received 2 of them! Another question, how do I know that the keypad is running off of the low-voltage wires if it was already running off of batteries? Low voltage power is back on, but I can't tell the source of the keypad's power.
@@gregg.2654 one way is to run your keypad off battery power until a significant amout was drained. Then plug it in to your new hardwired connection, if it shows it charging then good to go. Better yet, I would recommend using a multimeter to see that the correct voltage is going through the new connection so you dont inadvertently fry your keypad (over-voltage).
You don’t need any wires from the keypad. Our converter attaches to the low voltage wiring coming from the wall and has the micro usb connection needed to connect to the keypad.
Hi Frank. I am in the process of sending in more inventory (should be available in a day or so). I have manufactured a specific converter that I have tested to work with the Ring Alarm Keypad - you will know that you have the right one as it has the j4home logo stamped on it. The compatible converter will be available at the following link: www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDGR9GF
thanks for posting this video. Im just trying to figure where the old keypad is connected to so I can shut off the power to avoid being zapped. is it normally connected to the nearest light switch?
So I have a Honeywell stepdown transformer in my old alarm box. The output of it is illustrated as 16.5VAC 25VA the Model is a 1317-1. I am wondering if this converter can deal with an low volt AC input. I can't find anything on the web or Amazon that says it supports an AC current. Do you know what transformer is powering your lines before the converter that you got connected, and if so, what does say its output power is (AC vs DC), voltage, amps? Thanks in advance.
Hi Brandon, thanks for reaching out. Our converter does not work on AC current and I don't know of any that would (as you have found through your search). The alarm panel highlighted in the video pushes DC voltage to the converter. If you are looking for a quick solution to your issue, pick up this transformer that has been tested to work properly with the converter www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/ be sure to connect low voltage wires to the 12VDC terminals.
Well I tested my terminal wires with a multimeter. Got 12v DC, but also said I had 27v ac on the same wires. Placed the multimeter on the 12v battery on both the old alarm system and a car battery. Got the same readings. Pretty sure that old alarm panel somewhere on it is converting the 16.5VAC to 12v DC. We shall see!
Yes, that is quite possible that it’s being converted to DC 12V. The panel used in the video does that and it works like a charm. Good luck! Comment back if you have any problems or additional questions.
Ok got one of those in the mail today. Hooked it up all went well. Thanks again for posting the video to inform others about this potential. Im only using the constant power to provide illumination on the keypad to ward off potential intruders (i have a glass see thru door). This ring alarm is the money! What do you use for fire alarms, I have 10+ year old hardwired ones I need replacing. Was thinking of getting those interconnected first alerts and then a ring smoke and CO listener to place beside one if the interconnected ones.
Glad all went well! Use this smoke/CO detector www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Detector-Carbon-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI/ works seamlessly with Ring Alarm and no need for the CO listener.
Hi @Steven Romero, the converter is 12v to 5v that was designed to work with the Ring Alarm keypad, you can purchase it here amzn.to/2VSNiJa. For a power supply that works well with the converter, check this one www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/
Would you have a recommendation for a transformer to power three different keypads? I would really like to get rid of my alarm panel and not have to keep it just to power these. Thanks for the video!
Question: do you have all wireless sensors or would you try the Ring Retrofit kit to use the wired sensors (other than motion sensors) at the old alarm panel? Also, do you still have the old battery backup at was in the alarm panel box connected? Every thing the same except for the panel swap?
Honestly, i would use the ring retrofit kit myself. That, plus zwave and cheaper entry price point are all things this smart security system has going for it.
The ring retro fit kit is very interesting and could save you quite a bit of money if you already have an existing hardwired system. I haven’t heard any reviews yet on the kit, so I guess the jury is still out. Re: the battery backup, you can certainly leave it connected, but keep in mind that the keypads battery will charge as part of the process so in essence you will have a built in battery backup.
This was so helpful! By chance did you have a home with a pre-wired system installed that traces back to a panel with a motherboard and such? That’s what we have and having power issues for the ring keypad.
We have an existing hardwired alarm system with 2Gig keypads and recently switched to Ring. The keypad upstairs has black and red wires and this worked great. However, the main keypad only has an Ethernet type wire running to it with Blue and White wires providing power. Any idea how this was done and if there’s any way to use these to power the Ring keypad?
Lots of times with low voltage wiring the colors are not consistent due to sloppy installs. If the blue and white are currently providing the power use can use them to power the ring with the adapter. Just use the blue instead of the black and white in place of the red. If that doesn’t work, you can swap them and use white for the black and blue for the red.
I have a prewired for alarm system in my house, but I just have a thick red wire coming out of the wall. No black wire at all. Would be ok to connect red to red and leave black behind or maybe connect black and red from the converter to the thick red wired I have?
The thick red wire could indicate 110v source. I would not suggest you connect this converter to that source, it will not work. Best to consult with an electrician in your case.
Hi a2z. You can certainly tap off of 110 house power, but the process will be a bit different. You have an added step of running low voltage wire from your power source to the location where you want to put your Ring alarm keypad. Follow these steps: 1. Run low voltage wiring from the location where you want your keypad to a location that has an available outlet. I recommend using this wiring: www.amazon.com/Southwire-56750023-Twisted-Residential-Electrical/dp/B008J36RH0/ 2. Attach this adapter to the wire you just ran near an outlet: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/ Be sure you connect to the 12VDC terminals. 3. Attach our module (www.amazon.com/j4home-Converter-Module-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B07RDGR9GF/) to the low voltage wiring at the location of your keypad. Connect the module's USB micro connection to your Ring alarm keypad and you'll be up and running.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thanks for the video - very helpful. I currently have 2 keypads on my existing hardwired alarm system. When replacing them with the Ring keypads, I want to use the existing wires and then then connect the other end to the 12V connections on power adapter that you are recommending. Would you know if I can connect both wires to that same 12V connection on the adapter, instead of needing to use 2 separate power adapters (1 for each keypad?)
You commented that the ac to dc adaptors should be 3 amp but I saw you posted a link to one that was 2 amp, does it matter which one to use or either should work?
@@j4homeautomation97 sorry I meant for the power supply to give the wires power. My house came pre wired but I don't have power going go to the wires, would the ac to dc 12 volts at 2 amps work with this?
@@j4homeautomation97 I can power two ring keypads (each with their own 12V-5Vusb adapters) with a single 12VDC transformer, right? Or would I need one transformer for each?
Wait. I think you’re not saying it will work with old alarm system, it’ll just use the low voltage power for the pad to work with new Ring system. Correct?
Jeff LiMato - the ring keypad will not work with your old alarm system. This is just mounting the ring keypad using the old alarm pad installation location for the ring alarm. If all your hard wired sensors are still working, you can install the Ring retrofit kit to take advantage of all your hard wired sensors with the ring alarm system.
I have run into an issue... I can't seem to power the Ring keypad with the module. I am fairly fluent with low voltage, so I don't think I'm doing anything wrong. I've tested the wiring where my old alarm keypads used to be and it shows 13.48 VDC. I've also tested at the alarm panel circuit board and it shows the same voltage. I've even wired the module directly to the alarm panel and it still will not light up green. I thought maybe it was that particular module, so I've swapped it with another one, and still no green light. As a final test, I've plugged a regular micro-usb charger into the keypad and it lit up green. Do you have any suggestions? I cannot think of what it could be! Thanks in advance!
Thanks for reaching out. It could be that the old alarm panel is not sending consistent voltage. What you may want to try is bypass the old alarm panel completely and just use the wiring that is already in place and running to the old alarm keypad. Connect this www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/ to the power wires that are currently connected to your old panel. This will provide the needed voltage for the modules to work correctly. Just be sure to connect to the 12VDC terminals on the transformer (but I'm sure you know that already).
So I’m not sure what my problem is but I followed the link and hardwired the keypad for my new ring alarm. It seems I can’t make it more than 24 hours before the keypad loses power. The connections are good any ideas?
When you say it loses power, does the green charging light just go out or is the keypad completely unusable due to no power? Are you sure power is being pushed through your low voltage wiring, more specifically, did you have a previous keypad (or other device) attached to those wires that was operating correctly? Last question, when you say your keypad loses power, can you disconnect it then reconnect it and let me know if the keypad starts getting power again.
j4home automation So I’m replacing a previous alarm system that was old and outdated but still had power to the keypad. Are use those existing low-voltage wires that power the keypad and connected them to the converter which was then plugged into the ring keypad. Initially everything worked fine but I noticed after a couple hours on the keypad the entire ring keypad lost power. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it fired right back up so I assumed that maybe I hadn’t plugged it in well enough. A couple hours after this the keypad goes completely blank again. I then check my connections to make sure the wires are connected good to the converter which they were. It will go for a couple hours then lose complete power to the keypad.
Lastly the wires that powered my previous keypad are much thinner then your power wires, not sure if that has anything to do with it or not. It gets power turns on then shuts off hours later. If you touch a button nothing will happen, but if you unplug it and plug it back in, it will fire back up for a few More hours until the keypad goes blank again
So it can certainly be that the existing low voltage wiring is not providing enough voltage. Take your keypad and plug it in with the ring provided adapter to see if you experience the same loss of power.
j4home automation That’s the problem. The provided ring charger works fine and the keypad holds the charge. I think low voltage wires form the previous keypad don’t provide enough power. I think I’m just going to run a recessed outlet in the wall and call it a day then I don’t have to mess with the low voltage existing wires.
Yes you should, or you can just disconnect the power from the existing alarm panel. Either way, you don’t want power flowing through as you are connecting the adapter.
Segura176 - not true. You can keep it powered 24/7 and only use the battery in the event of power loss. Using the battery is great for the convenience if you don’t have the ability to plug in power.
I currently (no pun intended) have an ADT Impassa alarm system, which is powered by a transformer which shows an input of 120VAC 60Hz 0.23A and an output of 16.5VAC 20VA. Will this work with your adapter? The wiring was done well, previously, so that I don't see anything and the plug (adapter) is on a different wall (with the wiring going through that wall). I'd prefer not to remove the wiring and just attach your adapter via wire nuts and electrical tape at the point of connection (currently the existing ADT alarm), which consists of just a black and red wire. Thoughts?
Is the black and red wire coming out of the wall low voltage? If so, I'm assuming your current ADT key pad is passing data via WiFi; which is why you only have the black and red wire for power? If that's the case, the adapter should work just fine.
@@j4homeautomation97 I'm not sure if it's low voltage or not. The existing keypad has the cellular back-up, but is not on the house's wi-fi. The unit is self contained (the keypad is also the alarm) and each sensor and Motion sensor is wireless.
I looked up the ADT Impassa and it does use low voltage, but it's AC and my adapter needs DC. Unfortunately it won't work with your current wiring. If you can find where the red and black wires terminate, I can point you to another solution that will work with my adapter. The other thing you can do is order the adapter and see if it works with your current wiring as I'm not 100% positive what being output. If it doesn't work, you can return the adapter for a full refund.
@@j4homeautomation97 Yes, if you can point me to another adapter, that would be great (and I'll keep existing wiring in place and attach to the new adapter). Thank you!
Harlan, you can follow this process: Find where the low voltage terminates and connect it to this (www.amazon.com/110V-220V-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B07GFFG1BQ/) and plug the adapter to a wall outlet. More than likely the low voltage terminates somewhere in your basement. Once you connect the adapter, you will have the correct power going to black and red wire that was previously connected to your ADT Impassa. At that point, you can use my converter to then power the Ring keypad. Comment back if you have other questions.
This worked but has anyone had trouble with static now during the ring alarm announcements (such as "Disarmed", etc.) or even the ring alarm tones (when setting alarm)?
Hi David, this has never caused trouble with static during announcements, it sounds just as clear as always. Are you saying the announcements were clear before you hard wired and now you are receiving static? If so, it may be the location where you now have the keypad, if it's different than the previous location.
Hello! I tried hardwiring the ring key pad using the converter in the video, but there was no power coming to the keypad. I had the same 4 wires coming out from the wall where my old keypad used to be and I wired them correctly to the converter, but when I plugged in the keypad it didn't show that the battery was charging. Any help would be appreciated!
Hi AA, thanks for reaching out. There are a number of reasons why you may not be getting power. Assuming you confirmed that the keypad you are replacing was getting power, sometimes the color of the wires don't follow consistency, so first check all the wires to ensure you are connecting the correct wires. They are not always the red and black (although they should be). The next thing to check is that the power coming through the wires is DC power, not AC. The adapter only works with DC power. If you have AC coming through, you can connect this adapter (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/) to the wires that are currently connected to the existing alarm panel (the current power source). Even if you think the power coming through currently is DC, you may want to use this power adapter instead. Some older alarm panels don't provide the needed level of current and I have confirmed that the power adapter I linked to works perfectly with our adapter. Let me know how things works out and if you still have questions, comment back.
I did not as my base station sits in my network closet, so I don't need the wire hidden. Theoretically you can do the same for the base station if you can find the correct adapter. Base station has a different power connection than the keypad.
Great video! I have GE Simon XT keypad similarly installed by my old security company. When I opened it I found out it has similar Red and Black wire going to 9V in keypad. Can i install it with those wire or have to get new electrical work?
METS NYC - you can use the wired sensors with the ring retrofit kit. You would have to move the wiring from your old alarm panel to the retrofit kit. It doesn’t do sensors that require power (e.g., motion sensor or glass break sensor unless you add power for them - I haven’t seen videos on that yet). If you have locations that don’t have hard wiring, you can use ring wireless sensors. This video is ONLY allows you to take advantage of existing wiring from an old alarm panel to hard wire ring keyboard and does nothing else with your hard wired sensors.
Hi Wenston, are you still having problems? There are many things that could be the issue, but it would help to know what your install looks like. Are you replacing a previous alarm panel?
Pointless hardwiring it as I hd mine fully charged and it’s been nearly 2yrs and it’s saying I got half battery left…. It’s not like it’s really high up for you to think I need to hardwire it as it can easily be recharged and left for good 2yrs or more
We ended up exchanging this model for the slimmer version ua-cam.com/users/postUgkx0jZ_lGlDVJhDnmagEU8gn47cmfPNlLQU because it was too wide for the only door trim area that made sense to mount it on. However, we should have just noted the dimensions prior to purchasing. Otherwise, we love the doorbell. It works perfectly, and the video is very clear, even at night.
Great video - I installed this several months ago! The one thing I did differently was feed the USB cable through the center hole in the bracket instead of one of the side holes. This allows you to keep the charging cable completely hidden, and the keypad fits snugly into the bracket completely.
Great tip Donnie!
Thanks ordered 2x of these for my upstairs and downstairs keypad. Worked like a charm.. I used wire nuts in addition to electrical tape. I posted this video on my community Facebook page for other who may have ring alarm system. Expect some more business coming your way.
Thank You Corey, much appreciated! Stay well!
Just installed mine and it works great. Thanks for the vid. Folks if you're going to do this make sure you TURN OFF THE POWER to the old alarm pad before touching those wires AND cap off the wires that you are NOT using any longer with wire caps and NOT just electrical tape also use the caps to connect the red to red and black to black wires.
How do u turn off the power?
@@franciscochavez6119 from your circuit breaker panel. Figure out which one controls the power to the keypad and turn it off while connecting. Five minute job max.
Or, you can unplug the power to your security system if you know where the plug is located. Also, remove the leads from the battery back-up if you have one in your existing alarm panel so the system is totally dead.
Thank you for posting this. I went on Amazon and the converter is no longer available. But I did find another one in case anyone is wondering.
SMAKN DC/DC Converter 12V/24V/36V/48V Step Down to 5v 3A(MAX) Power Supply Module MICRO USB OUTPUT
Our converter will be back in stock soon. The Corona Virus has caused a delay in restocking.
Thanks for the great advice. I think it will look a lot better hardwired.
Thanks! Glad I did a UA-cam search to see if there was a way to do it. I really appreciate you sharing the video!
Brilliant video and idea. Successfully hard-wired my keypad this week using this method. Thanks!!
Exactly describes my situation. Thanks for posting!
Glad it's helpful for you.
My Ring keypad was fully charged when I wired it to your converter. I also purchased, and am using, your recommended transformer (DC current at 12V). Since the keypad is already fully charged, how do I tell if the keypad is receiving power from the hardwiring since the battery charging light won't be blinking? P.S. your video was extremely helpful, informative, and clearly explained.
After I figured out that my alarm transformer is AC, I reconnected it to my old alarm panel and used the DC output terminals to power your step down converter. Not as clean as I'd like, but worked out. Is there a AC to DC converter that will supply enough power for two of your converters?
Thanks I wanted to place it the same way. Great video and thanks for posting.
Great Job ...I just have to ask one thing...The battery life last about a year .... and its really quick to charge the keypad... if needed... so why go through all that mess ?? I'm just saying...great job again
Hi Super Nova. For those that are switching from traditional alarm systems, they want the same experience... to have the keypad in the same location as the one they are replacing with Ring (and to reuse wiring that is already in place) and there’s a mentality to set it and forget it. Yes, the battery may last a long time, but it’s preferred by many not to even worry about that :)
Thanks so much, seriously easy to follow and was able to do this on my honeywell keypads converting them to Ring. Appreciate the details.
is honeywell not good?thanks
Ok, my bad ... just now saw the link. Thanks for the video!
Great information, thanks!
Thanks again. Just finished install looks and works great !!
Thank you for this video! Very detailed and informative.
Do you mind me asking how you found the wires, I have a electrical light switch directly under my key pad is there a way I can connect it without having to use trunking? Thanks
now how do you get from 120V to the j4? If you dont have an existing alarm system to tap off of.
Hi Josh. So the best way to get from 120V to our converter is always going to be via low voltage wiring. You can't tap directly into the 120V line, but what you can do is as follows. Run low voltage wiring (bell wire works very well) to the spot where you want to place your Ring Keypad. At the spot where you started your low voltage wire run, connect the wire to this device (www.amazon.com/MG-MGT2412DV-Current-Transformer-60/dp/B002IS1UW4) and make sure you connect to the 12VDC terminals. Once that is done, plug the transformer into a nearby outlet and you will now have the correct voltage going to the Ring Keypad location. You can now connect our converter to the wires at the Ring Keypad location.
@@j4homeautomation97 that device is not to code for a plenum.
Are you talking about the transformer? That’s not intended to go in a Plenum. It plugs into an outlet outside of the wall.
Thank you very much for sharing this tip, it looks great!!
Outstanding!
I would not just twist the wires together and use tape; I know it's low voltage but I would always use something like a Wago connector instead
Beautiful. Thank you
Thank you very much for the video !! Followed your instruction and setup was a breeze .. 15 minutes and done ..
I have a question. Besides putting tape over it. is there anyway to turn off the green battery light? Mines is constantly on after doing this? Thanks
You can adjust the brightness of the leds, but that doesn’t effect the battery light. Having the battery light on is a good indication that the keypad is still receiving power. The only way to turn the light off is to unplug the keypad.
Thank you very much for this ! Really appreciated
Thanks for sharing this!!!
This is a great video, thank you. My question is I disconnected the power to my old alarm system control box to stop the siren from sounding. My plan is to remove the old control box altogether. However, one consequence is that there is no power to any of the alarm keypads. So I can hardwire the Ring keypad, but there will not be power. Is there any way to correct this issue and feed power to the wiring that was formerly connected to the old keypad?
Hi Patrick, Great question and this comes up a lot. I'm actually going to do a video soon on how to solve this. In your case, look at your old control box and find the wires that were providing the power to the previous key pad. Disconnect those wires from the old control box and attach them to this device (www.amazon.com/MG-MGT2412DV-Current-Transformer-60/dp/B002IS1UW4) make sure you connect the wires to the 12VDC terminals, then just plug the transformer into an outlet. You will now have the necessary power being delivered to the wiring that the formerly connected keypad was using. At this point, connect our converter to those wires and attach to the Ring keypad and you will be good to go.
this is great ... had a look at my old system the key pad is connected with 4 wires and not sure if they are the same as your black and red low voltage ones. im currently using Honeywell looks like 6160 display keypad. any idea if your converter will work with this? thanks
Yes, the Honeywell 6160 runs on low voltage DC power so the power being sent is what our converter needs. The color of the wires don’t need to match exactly. You just need to determine which two wires are providing the power to the Honeywell keypad and then connect those to our converter. If the Ring is not getting power after you connect those wires, flip them and it should work then. For example, if you had a blue connected to our red and a white connected to our black, flip it so blue now connects black and white connects to red.
Why? when the batter goes low just plug it in for a few hours. Or you can use a battery bank to charge it.
Hi. I’m new to home security and am shopping for the product that will fit my needs. So my guess is ... the main purpose for hardwiring the keypad is so you don’t have to change batteries. Are there any other benefits I’m missing? Thanks!!!!
Yes, the main benefit is not to worry about charging the keypad, but it's also a benefit for those that have an existing alarm system that they are replacing with Ring. This method allows the Ring alarm to replace the old alarm keypad and reuse the wiring that is already in place. Welcome to the exciting world of home security and automation :)
j4home automation Thank you for video and your response! It is very exciting. I’m enjoying learning about all the intricacies thanks to experienced people like you. It will definitely help me to make an educated decision before my purchase. 😀😉.
Thank you! Very helpful.
I have 4 wires a red , green , white, green white I don’t have the blk wire any guesses ?
The colors are not important, you need to find the 2 wires that were providing power to the previous keypad. If you have a voltage meter you can test each wire for a voltage reading. If you don’t want to go this route, you can look at the previous alarm panel and see which colored wires are connected to the power terminal.
Can I add another device, eufy camera, with ring? I mean two converters to one wiring.
Want to make sure I understand your question correctly. You have one 12VDC power source coming in and you want to connect two converters to that one source to power a ring keypad and a eufy camera? If I have that correct, it should work as long as the camera is micro usb and requires 5VDC power.
The wires coming out of the wall, they lead to the 'box' upstairs but the wires upstairs aren't connected to anything. What is best way to connect those wires into something to power everything?
Hi Arujan, there's an easy solution for this. Where the wires are in the 'box' upstairs, take the wires that will carry the power (I'm assuming you have confirmed that they are low voltage) and connect them to this device ( www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/ ) make sure you connect to the 12VDC terminals. Once that is done, plug the transformer into an outlet and you will have power going to the location where you want to install our adapter and Ring key pad. Let me know if you have any other questions.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thank you very much, I can't seem to find this transformer in Toronto, Canada. Doesn't seem like they deliver to Canada. Do you know if this is a similar product: www.amazon.ca/Rollerhouse-Transformer-Adapter-100-240V-Transformers/dp/B07TZBDHMF
Yes, that should work. It’s not the same as the other one, but it looks to be outputting 12v DC power and that’s what you need.
Hello. When are you expecting to receive the converter back in stock? If not any time soon, would you be able to recommend something similar?
We have been in constant contact with our supplier and should be receiving a new shipment soon... within the next week. Amazon has put restrictions on receiving non-essential items before April 1st, so I’m anticipating being fully restocked in Amazon the first week of April.
j4home automation
Thanks!
Converters are back in stock.
Electrical Tape?
I bought the j4home adapter as shown above, but it doesn't fit in my Gen 2 Ring keypad. Is there a different adapter for Gen 2 keypads? Thanks.
Hi Joe, the adapter fits the gen 2 just fine. It just takes a bit more effort and you need to make sure the connection is laying completely flat. We have had an issue with our supplier where sometimes the connection is bigger than others so maybe you got one of those units, I’m sorry about that. If you send me your mailing address (john@j4media.com) I would be more than happy to send you a unit that I’ll test to connect successfully to the gen 2.
So my existing Honeywell security box uses the green and yellow as 9vdc and gnd. My red and black are not used. I bought your converter and use the green and yellow but get pin rejected. Should I used the red and black at this point?
Hi Chi, I don’t think the wires are the problem. It’s likely the power source from your Honeywell box. I would disconnect the green and yellow (or you can use the unused red and black) and connect it to this device www.amazon.com/MG-MGT2412DV-Current-Transformer-60/dp/B002IS1UW4/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?dchild=1&keywords=current+transformer&qid=1597196645&sprefix=current+tran&sr=8-13 Make sure you connect to the 12VDC terminals and plug into an outlet (hopefully you have one near your Honeywell box)
This is a great video. How did you get the power converter behind the wall? Did you have to open up the hole to get it in there? Did you just cram it in the wall or did you somehow affix it so it's held in place? If you had to open up the hole more to get it in, did you patch up the hole before putting the keypad on there? Thanks for the help.
The converter fit though the existing hole, no need to open it up more. Just be sure to put the converter behind the wall before you put the bracket on the wall.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thank you. Did you somehow attach the converter kit to something behind the wall, or did you just cram it in there and it holds it in place?
Also, is it against code to have the power converter behind the wall?
One other question. Is there any difference from this power converter to the one that you linked above? It's $3 cheaper (I would have to buy 3 of these so it's pretty much $10 in savings for me).
www.amazon.com/dp/B01MEESLZ6/ref=psdc_10967761_t1_B07RDGR9GF
For your first question, the converter just hangs behind the wall. The wire that comes out of the wall is tight enough against the bracket that is keeps the converter from falling behind the wall. The difference between the converter that I link and the one you listed is the one I link has been tested to work with the Ring key pad...I'm not sure about the other one.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thank you!
I have zero electrical skills. Lol. I just bought one of these alarm system as well and want to hard wire it. I ordered both kits you have here listed. Looks like all I do is match and connect the wires to the power converter then connect that to the wall wart adapter and plug that into any nearby outlet and I'm done? Is that correct? Thx
Hi Robert. Yes, you have the general idea. Couple of clarifications: You make the connections on separate ends of the low voltage wire. The end coming out of the wall where you are going to install the ring keypad gets connected to the j4home converter. The other end; which will terminate somewhere else (preferably by an existing wall outlet) will be connected to the wall adapter. Be sure to consistently use the red and black low voltage wires. Many times there are other colored wires in the feed, just wire nut those off and ignore them. Good luck. Comment back if you run into trouble.
Worked perfectly thx... Now just trying to figure out how to run it behind the wall safely to the closest outlet. Should I electrical tape the connections?
Glad it worked! You should wire nut the connections and then put electrical tape around those for good measure.
@@bobguzman9970 Well hopefully you didn't do this (What you described in your question) to add it to a 110 plug, because this is meant to convert low voltage power to a different low voltage power and Micro USB end that then plugs into the Ring keypad. The Ring Gen 2 keypad already comes with a 110W power source.
I don’t recommend hardwiring as others have left their keypads plugged in which caused the keypad to freeze.
Thanks very much for this very helpful video. I have a question. My current DSC system simply plugs into an outlet and has a Rechargeable 12 Volt 7.0AMP hr DC battery backup. Since Ring already has a battery backup, I assume there is no reason to maintain that battery as an additional backup. Is that correct? Thanks for any insights on this. Bill
Hi William, that is correct. You don’t need the DSC battery backup, that would only be for the DSC panel. If you lose power, the Ring keypad battery will kick in.
Thanks I purchased three devices and will install them in my ring system.
May be a dumb question but here goes.... I have an existing alarm I am removing. When I connect this to use the power wires from that alarm, where is it pulling power? IE Do I need to leave all the old alarm electronic boards hooked up in the wiring enclosure in my closet? I am assuming there is some power source there? Is that the batteries for the old alarm?
Hi Christopher. Not a dumb question at all. Yes, the wires are currently providing power so you want to keep the black and red (most likely) wires connected to your old board. You can remove all the other wires connected to the board if you'd like as you won't need them. Before disconnecting anything, take a look at your board and you should be able to determine which ones are providing the power. Comment back if you have further questions.
Thank for sharing. Were do I get the converter ? Do you have a part number ?
Hi Chad, you can purchase the converter here: www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDGR9GF
I have an existing home security that came with the house. It doesn’t work anymore (I think the wiring were cut in the telephone box) is there a way to reconnect it? There are a lot of wiring in the telephone box. Thanks.
This worked great - thanks so much! I also have motion detectors from an old alarm system powered by low voltage wires. Since the ring indoor plug-in cameras also use a USB connection for power supply, do you think this solution would work for them?
Hi Rod, you’re welcome, glad we helped you out. If the cameras are using micro USB and the power being supplied to them are from the same source as your keypad or a separate source sending DC power then this solution will work just fine.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thanks - I figured it will work. I ordered a camera and I know it takes USB - Ring keypad, Ring Indoor Plug-in Cam... I will test it out on the USB adaptor for the keypad, but I am confident you are right and it will work just fine. Thanks again!
See if you can verify the voltage in those wires. Not all USB connections are created equal. In other words it may be giving less than the recommended volts, or worse more. The charging unit that came with the keypad should state the recommended voltage to charge the unit. Ensure your existing USB cable is within this window.
@@krawl04 that’s great advice. I am happy to say I have used this for the keypad and cameras and have had no issues for 10 months.
thank you for sharing
Thanks for the video, sir.
so i have a gen2 keypad and live in hurricane alley if i do this type of installation when i lose electricity will my keypad still work until the battery fades?
Yes, the battery charges normally, so you will be working off of the battery if your electricity goes out.
To hardwire the ring keypad where my old one was, do I need to purchase the ring retrofit alarm kit and the converter or do i just need the converter?
Just the converter.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thank you!!!!
Is it possible to hardwire the base station that’s the main issue. Many thanks.
The base station plugs into any 110 outlet, this is only for providing low voltage power from old hardwired keypad to the new Ring keypad.
Excellent video! Instructions clearly stated. Do you know when the power converter will be available again on Amazon (of if it can be purchased elsewhere)? Thanks!
It’s currently restocked on Amazon. Inventory has been sitting there for over a week, Amazon has dragged their feet on checking it in :)
@@j4homeautomation97 Great! I've ordered and received 2 of them! Another question, how do I know that the keypad is running off of the low-voltage wires if it was already running off of batteries? Low voltage power is back on, but I can't tell the source of the keypad's power.
@@gregg.2654 one way is to run your keypad off battery power until a significant amout was drained. Then plug it in to your new hardwired connection, if it shows it charging then good to go. Better yet, I would recommend using a multimeter to see that the correct voltage is going through the new connection so you dont inadvertently fry your keypad (over-voltage).
What size drill bit to make pilot holes?
Does it come with the inverter ?
What do you mean by inverter? It comes with everything needed to connect the low voltage to your ring keypad and provide power.
@@j4homeautomation97 I have the second gen and it didn’t come with the wires to hard wire it
You don’t need any wires from the keypad. Our converter attaches to the low voltage wiring coming from the wall and has the micro usb connection needed to connect to the keypad.
Looking for the information on the converter
Hi Marylee, what information are you looking for? The link to purchase the converter on Amazon is in the video description above.
Hey,
Thank you so much for the tip!
Worked out great. 👍🏽🍻
do you need to turn off the power first
Yes, it is best practice to turn the power off before doing this.
thank you
Where do you get the converter from? More Info on that would be helpful and much appreciated! Thanks in advance!!
Nonya Biz You May now know but for others wondering who just discovered this video there’s am amazon link to the part in video description. Cheers
The link for the converter seems to be for a USB not micro is there a link for the micro which I think is what you used?
Hi Frank. I am in the process of sending in more inventory (should be available in a day or so). I have manufactured a specific converter that I have tested to work with the Ring Alarm Keypad - you will know that you have the right one as it has the j4home logo stamped on it. The compatible converter will be available at the following link: www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDGR9GF
thanks for posting this video. Im just trying to figure where the old keypad is connected to so I can shut off the power to avoid being zapped. is it normally connected to the nearest light switch?
It’s usually connected to the old alarm panel, most likely in your basement. You will need to cut the power from the alarm panel.
@@j4homeautomation97 greatly appreciate this feedback. I was able to find it. I did not realize that I had an outlet in that panel. Thanks.
So I have a Honeywell stepdown transformer in my old alarm box. The output of it is illustrated as 16.5VAC 25VA the Model is a 1317-1. I am wondering if this converter can deal with an low volt AC input. I can't find anything on the web or Amazon that says it supports an AC current. Do you know what transformer is powering your lines before the converter that you got connected, and if so, what does say its output power is (AC vs DC), voltage, amps? Thanks in advance.
Hi Brandon, thanks for reaching out. Our converter does not work on AC current and I don't know of any that would (as you have found through your search). The alarm panel highlighted in the video pushes DC voltage to the converter. If you are looking for a quick solution to your issue, pick up this transformer that has been tested to work properly with the converter www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/ be sure to connect low voltage wires to the 12VDC terminals.
Well I tested my terminal wires with a multimeter. Got 12v DC, but also said I had 27v ac on the same wires. Placed the multimeter on the 12v battery on both the old alarm system and a car battery. Got the same readings. Pretty sure that old alarm panel somewhere on it is converting the 16.5VAC to 12v DC. We shall see!
Yes, that is quite possible that it’s being converted to DC 12V. The panel used in the video does that and it works like a charm. Good luck! Comment back if you have any problems or additional questions.
Ok got one of those in the mail today. Hooked it up all went well. Thanks again for posting the video to inform others about this potential. Im only using the constant power to provide illumination on the keypad to ward off potential intruders (i have a glass see thru door). This ring alarm is the money! What do you use for fire alarms, I have 10+ year old hardwired ones I need replacing. Was thinking of getting those interconnected first alerts and then a ring smoke and CO listener to place beside one if the interconnected ones.
Glad all went well! Use this smoke/CO detector www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Detector-Carbon-Monoxide/dp/B00KMHXFAI/ works seamlessly with Ring Alarm and no need for the CO listener.
Is that a 12v to 5v converter? If not Can you reply with a link for the converter and power supply too please
Hi @Steven Romero, the converter is 12v to 5v that was designed to work with the Ring Alarm keypad, you can purchase it here amzn.to/2VSNiJa. For a power supply that works well with the converter, check this one www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/
thank you, this is good internet
Would you have a recommendation for a transformer to power three different keypads? I would really like to get rid of my alarm panel and not have to keep it just to power these. Thanks for the video!
Andrew, I have found this transformer to perform very well: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/
That was so smart. Thanks
This converter won’t work for the 2nd gen. Anyone know which one will work? Thanks
This does work with the 2nd gen. What problem are you having?
Question: do you have all wireless sensors or would you try the Ring Retrofit kit to use the wired sensors (other than motion sensors) at the old alarm panel?
Also, do you still have the old battery backup at was in the alarm panel box connected? Every thing the same except for the panel swap?
Honestly, i would use the ring retrofit kit myself. That, plus zwave and cheaper entry price point are all things this smart security system has going for it.
The ring retro fit kit is very interesting and could save you quite a bit of money if you already have an existing hardwired system. I haven’t heard any reviews yet on the kit, so I guess the jury is still out. Re: the battery backup, you can certainly leave it connected, but keep in mind that the keypads battery will charge as part of the process so in essence you will have a built in battery backup.
This was so helpful!
By chance did you have a home with a pre-wired system installed that traces back to a panel with a motherboard and such?
That’s what we have and having power issues for the ring keypad.
Nevermind. I just read all the other comments and found link to just want I needed
Glad you found the answer you were looking for. Feel free to comment back if you have other questions or need additional help.
Hi, my keypad keeps disconnecting from my wifi. I can reset it and it works but by the next day its disconnected again. Any suggestions? Thank you.
We have an existing hardwired alarm system with 2Gig keypads and recently switched to Ring. The keypad upstairs has black and red wires and this worked great. However, the main keypad only has an Ethernet type wire running to it with Blue and White wires providing power. Any idea how this was done and if there’s any way to use these to power the Ring keypad?
Lots of times with low voltage wiring the colors are not consistent due to sloppy installs. If the blue and white are currently providing the power use can use them to power the ring with the adapter. Just use the blue instead of the black and white in place of the red. If that doesn’t work, you can swap them and use white for the black and blue for the red.
u can use wire nuts too
I have a prewired for alarm system in my house, but I just have a thick red wire coming out of the wall. No black wire at all. Would be ok to connect red to red and leave black behind or maybe connect black and red from the converter to the thick red wired I have?
The thick red wire could indicate 110v source. I would not suggest you connect this converter to that source, it will not work. Best to consult with an electrician in your case.
If i never had an alarm, is there an adapter for 110, so i can tap off the house power
Hi a2z. You can certainly tap off of 110 house power, but the process will be a bit different. You have an added step of running low voltage wire from your power source to the location where you want to put your Ring alarm keypad. Follow these steps:
1. Run low voltage wiring from the location where you want your keypad to a location that has an available outlet. I recommend using this wiring: www.amazon.com/Southwire-56750023-Twisted-Residential-Electrical/dp/B008J36RH0/
2. Attach this adapter to the wire you just ran near an outlet: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/ Be sure you connect to the 12VDC terminals.
3. Attach our module (www.amazon.com/j4home-Converter-Module-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B07RDGR9GF/) to the low voltage wiring at the location of your keypad. Connect the module's USB micro connection to your Ring alarm keypad and you'll be up and running.
@@j4homeautomation97 Thanks for the video - very helpful. I currently have 2 keypads on my existing hardwired alarm system. When replacing them with the Ring keypads, I want to use the existing wires and then then connect the other end to the 12V connections on power adapter that you are recommending. Would you know if I can connect both wires to that same 12V connection on the adapter, instead of needing to use 2 separate power adapters (1 for each keypad?)
@@dirkramsey7876 did you ever get an answer to this question?
You commented that the ac to dc adaptors should be 3 amp but I saw you posted a link to one that was 2 amp, does it matter which one to use or either should work?
The adapter linked in the description above is the correct one to use.
@@j4homeautomation97 sorry I meant for the power supply to give the wires power. My house came pre wired but I don't have power going go to the wires, would the ac to dc 12 volts at 2 amps work with this?
Use this power supply www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/ just be sure to connect the wires to the 12VDC terminals on the transformer.
@@j4homeautomation97 I can power two ring keypads (each with their own 12V-5Vusb adapters) with a single 12VDC transformer, right? Or would I need one transformer for each?
Hi. Thanks for the video. Are you saying I can replace my old alarm keypad with this new one? Will it retain my same pass code? Thanks.
Wait. I think you’re not saying it will work with old alarm system, it’ll just use the low voltage power for the pad to work with new Ring system. Correct?
Yes, that’s correct.
Jeff LiMato - the ring keypad will not work with your old alarm system. This is just mounting the ring keypad using the old alarm pad installation location for the ring alarm.
If all your hard wired sensors are still working, you can install the Ring retrofit kit to take advantage of all your hard wired sensors with the ring alarm system.
I wouldn't be sticking a non CSA/UL made in china transformer in my wall. If it wasn't for the cheap part, its a great idea.
I have 3 DSC Keypads. Do I need to do this to all three? Thanks....great video!
Yes, if you want to replace each of them with a Ring keypad, you would have to do this to each of them.
I just got the gen2 ring system. I assume the same converter is needed?
As long as the gen2 still uses micro USB, this converter will work just fine.
I have run into an issue... I can't seem to power the Ring keypad with the module. I am fairly fluent with low voltage, so I don't think I'm doing anything wrong. I've tested the wiring where my old alarm keypads used to be and it shows 13.48 VDC. I've also tested at the alarm panel circuit board and it shows the same voltage. I've even wired the module directly to the alarm panel and it still will not light up green. I thought maybe it was that particular module, so I've swapped it with another one, and still no green light. As a final test, I've plugged a regular micro-usb charger into the keypad and it lit up green. Do you have any suggestions? I cannot think of what it could be! Thanks in advance!
Thanks for reaching out. It could be that the old alarm panel is not sending consistent voltage. What you may want to try is bypass the old alarm panel completely and just use the wiring that is already in place and running to the old alarm keypad. Connect this www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/ to the power wires that are currently connected to your old panel. This will provide the needed voltage for the modules to work correctly. Just be sure to connect to the 12VDC terminals on the transformer (but I'm sure you know that already).
So I’m not sure what my problem is but I followed the link and hardwired the keypad for my new ring alarm. It seems I can’t make it more than 24 hours before the keypad loses power. The connections are good any ideas?
When you say it loses power, does the green charging light just go out or is the keypad completely unusable due to no power? Are you sure power is being pushed through your low voltage wiring, more specifically, did you have a previous keypad (or other device) attached to those wires that was operating correctly? Last question, when you say your keypad loses power, can you disconnect it then reconnect it and let me know if the keypad starts getting power again.
j4home automation
So I’m replacing a previous alarm system that was old and outdated but still had power to the keypad. Are use those existing low-voltage wires that power the keypad and connected them to the converter which was then plugged into the ring keypad. Initially everything worked fine but I noticed after a couple hours on the keypad the entire ring keypad lost power. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it fired right back up so I assumed that maybe I hadn’t plugged it in well enough. A couple hours after this the keypad goes completely blank again. I then check my connections to make sure the wires are connected good to the converter which they were. It will go for a couple hours then lose complete power to the keypad.
Lastly the wires that powered my previous keypad are much thinner then your power wires, not sure if that has anything to do with it or not. It gets power turns on then shuts off hours later. If you touch a button nothing will happen, but if you unplug it and plug it back in, it will fire back up for a few
More hours until the keypad goes blank again
So it can certainly be that the existing low voltage wiring is not providing enough voltage. Take your keypad and plug it in with the ring provided adapter to see if you experience the same loss of power.
j4home automation
That’s the problem. The provided ring charger works fine and the keypad holds the charge. I think low voltage wires form the previous keypad don’t provide enough power. I think I’m just going to run a recessed outlet in the wall and call it a day then I don’t have to mess with the low voltage existing wires.
Great video! Do I need to turn off the circuit breaker first?
Yes you should, or you can just disconnect the power from the existing alarm panel. Either way, you don’t want power flowing through as you are connecting the adapter.
Did the power converter module come with the ring alarm system?
No, it does not. It is a separate product.
By the way the keypad isn’t supposed to be plugged in 24/7 as it will keep a good charge for 6 to 9 months
Segura176 - not true. You can keep it powered 24/7 and only use the battery in the event of power loss. Using the battery is great for the convenience if you don’t have the ability to plug in power.
Do you have a link to buy the converter
Link is in the video description. You can get the converter here: www.amazon.com/j4home-Converter-Module-Adapter-Compatible/dp/B07RDGR9GF
I currently (no pun intended) have an ADT Impassa alarm system, which is powered by a transformer which shows an input of 120VAC 60Hz 0.23A and an output of 16.5VAC 20VA. Will this work with your adapter? The wiring was done well, previously, so that I don't see anything and the plug (adapter) is on a different wall (with the wiring going through that wall). I'd prefer not to remove the wiring and just attach your adapter via wire nuts and electrical tape at the point of connection (currently the existing ADT alarm), which consists of just a black and red wire. Thoughts?
Is the black and red wire coming out of the wall low voltage? If so, I'm assuming your current ADT key pad is passing data via WiFi; which is why you only have the black and red wire for power? If that's the case, the adapter should work just fine.
@@j4homeautomation97 I'm not sure if it's low voltage or not. The existing keypad has the cellular back-up, but is not on the house's wi-fi. The unit is self contained (the keypad is also the alarm) and each sensor and Motion sensor is wireless.
I looked up the ADT Impassa and it does use low voltage, but it's AC and my adapter needs DC. Unfortunately it won't work with your current wiring. If you can find where the red and black wires terminate, I can point you to another solution that will work with my adapter. The other thing you can do is order the adapter and see if it works with your current wiring as I'm not 100% positive what being output. If it doesn't work, you can return the adapter for a full refund.
@@j4homeautomation97 Yes, if you can point me to another adapter, that would be great (and I'll keep existing wiring in place and attach to the new adapter). Thank you!
Harlan, you can follow this process: Find where the low voltage terminates and connect it to this (www.amazon.com/110V-220V-Converter-Lighting-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B07GFFG1BQ/) and plug the adapter to a wall outlet. More than likely the low voltage terminates somewhere in your basement. Once you connect the adapter, you will have the correct power going to black and red wire that was previously connected to your ADT Impassa. At that point, you can use my converter to then power the Ring keypad. Comment back if you have other questions.
This worked but has anyone had trouble with static now during the ring alarm announcements (such as "Disarmed", etc.) or even the ring alarm tones (when setting alarm)?
Hi David, this has never caused trouble with static during announcements, it sounds just as clear as always. Are you saying the announcements were clear before you hard wired and now you are receiving static? If so, it may be the location where you now have the keypad, if it's different than the previous location.
Hello! I tried hardwiring the ring key pad using the converter in the video, but there was no power coming to the keypad. I had the same 4 wires coming out from the wall where my old keypad used to be and I wired them correctly to the converter, but when I plugged in the keypad it didn't show that the battery was charging. Any help would be appreciated!
Hi AA, thanks for reaching out. There are a number of reasons why you may not be getting power.
Assuming you confirmed that the keypad you are replacing was getting power, sometimes the color of the wires don't follow consistency, so first check all the wires to ensure you are connecting the correct wires.
They are not always the red and black (although they should be). The next thing to check is that the power coming through the wires is DC power, not AC. The adapter only works with DC power. If you have AC coming through, you can connect this
adapter (www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002IS1UW4/) to the wires that are currently connected to the existing alarm panel (the current power source). Even if you think the power coming through currently is DC, you may want to use this power adapter instead. Some older alarm panels don't provide the needed level of current and I have confirmed that the power adapter I linked to works perfectly with our adapter. Let me know how things works out and if you still have questions, comment back.
Where can you find the connection that your using to power up the pad
Hi Steve, you can purchase the converter here: amzn.to/2VSNiJa
So glad I searched for this! Did you do the same with the base station?
I did not as my base station sits in my network closet, so I don't need the wire hidden. Theoretically you can do the same for the base station if you can find the correct adapter. Base station has a different power connection than the keypad.
@@j4homeautomation97 Do you know what that power connection is called on the base station?
The base station uses a 4.5mm connection. I have not found a similar adapter with a 4.5mm connection, let me know if you have any luck.
Thanks for this video, My Good Man.
Great video!
I have GE Simon XT keypad similarly installed by my old security company. When I opened it I found out it has similar Red and Black wire going to 9V in keypad. Can i install it with those wire or have to get new electrical work?
Thanks Vivek. It should work fine with 9v coming in. Just make sure the wires are still drawing power. Comment back if you have any other questions.
This is a really helpful video. Has anyone attempted to switch from an ADT keypad?
Yes, in the video that is a switch from an ADT keypad and board.
Can I use the existing ADT wired window sensors as well as Ring wireless sensors?? Thanks!
METS NYC - you can use the wired sensors with the ring retrofit kit. You would have to move the wiring from your old alarm panel to the retrofit kit. It doesn’t do sensors that require power (e.g., motion sensor or glass break sensor unless you add power for them - I haven’t seen videos on that yet).
If you have locations that don’t have hard wiring, you can use ring wireless sensors.
This video is ONLY allows you to take advantage of existing wiring from an old alarm panel to hard wire ring keyboard and does nothing else with your hard wired sensors.
Can i also do this with a Simple Safe keypad? Thanks!
If the Simplisafe keypad uses a micro-usb connection then it should work fine.
Thanks
should I put wire nuts on the wires, just to be safe?
Yes, that is best practice. Although the video doesn't show it, the wires were connected with wire nuts in the final install.
j4home automation thank you!!
I only have high voltage
Didn’t come on for me. Any suggestions?
Hi Wenston, are you still having problems? There are many things that could be the issue, but it would help to know what your install looks like. Are you replacing a previous alarm panel?
Thank you!!!
Pointless hardwiring it as I hd mine fully charged and it’s been nearly 2yrs and it’s saying I got half battery left…. It’s not like it’s really high up for you to think I need to hardwire it as it can easily be recharged and left for good 2yrs or more
Where can I get the power converter module like the one in the video?
The converter can be purchased at this link: amzn.to/2VSNiJa