Results made perfect sense. The intake pipe geometry really isn't going to affect air pressure waves bouncing into the cylinders, so it just comes down to restriction. A shorty pipe with no air filter and a radiused inlet trumpet would probably do the best, all other variables being the same. I think your intake air temp tests next will be way more impactful. We've measured 10% air mass difference on our M3 from a hot vs. cold inlet air situation.
Great video! Very informative, straight to the point and done with scientific method of data acquisition, doing only 1 modification at a time. Waiting for the next video!
I love this channel! Great video the amount of work you put in the videos and data driven reasoning is amazing. For a MX5/Miata guy like me gaining 5hp is huge and I always wondered how an ideal intake would look like. Can't wait for the temp video!
I get you were just trying to see if length effects power. But just one aspect doesn't really matter Not simulating road air speed. Those two fans aren't enough. Heat will rob power. The hood was open. You'll need to closed. An proper air speed to see results similar to what would actually happen on the road. Let's see the hood closed. Heat soaked. No air box/no vent from turn signal light. Intake on intake side and exhaust side. Then add a air box with a proper signal vent. Air speed will be important... My iat dropped a bunch. Doesn't get heat soaked nearly as fast. Timing starts getting pulled when it's to hot. That doesn't happen now. Watch power banks.
The short ram is gonna suck hotter air while the longer (if done right) take colder air from outside the car is gonna have air thats more dense then the hot air thats expanded inside the engine bay
Okay - NICE - What about dyno testing: 1. the differences in WHP between different wheel diameters? 2. the differences in WHP between different wheel sizes(14'', 15'' etc - whilst paying attention to tyre weight) & 3. the differences in WHP due to varying wheel weights(light - 25lbs is possible with a 14'' RPF1 & a YOKOHAMA ADVAN A052 181/55 - to heavy)? P.S. 4. could be a test of different wheel designs affect on WHP - but we'd need to discuss why I think it matters first... =]
Hey guys... great simple tests. Love the wrap up you do! I race an NB1 RS with standard spec engine ECU etc down here in NZ (feel free to see my Videos :) )... I have a square top inlet plenum I picked up and have grafted a skunk type (bigger) throttle body (removing and smoothing aluminium to transition nicely). My question is, should I stick with the VICS (as your car uses) or are there extra BHP's in the Square top... also, how bad does driveability get down low, will I regret the squaretop pulling out of slower corners or are the gains at high rev's just too much to resit the change? i.e. can you please test a square top inlet against the VICS inlet. Thank you!... I'll dedicate my first win to you if it all come together. Keep up the great work!
Id be curious if intake pipe shape makes any difference. A friend brought me a goofy looking ARC crossover pipe from Japan, I doubt it makes any power but it does look neat under the hood.
I did the short method I’ve bought the car like 3 weeks ago and I’ve changed the spark plugs with ngk blue ones at the same time as the air filter (simota) and I think I ve gained some power if there is any1 here to tell me that the ngk plugs added some power let me know … cause I dont
Results made perfect sense. The intake pipe geometry really isn't going to affect air pressure waves bouncing into the cylinders, so it just comes down to restriction. A shorty pipe with no air filter and a radiused inlet trumpet would probably do the best, all other variables being the same. I think your intake air temp tests next will be way more impactful. We've measured 10% air mass difference on our M3 from a hot vs. cold inlet air situation.
Great video! Very informative, straight to the point and done with scientific method of data acquisition, doing only 1 modification at a time.
Waiting for the next video!
I love this channel! Great video the amount of work you put in the videos and data driven reasoning is amazing. For a MX5/Miata guy like me gaining 5hp is huge and I always wondered how an ideal intake would look like. Can't wait for the temp video!
I get you were just trying to see if length effects power. But just one aspect doesn't really matter
Not simulating road air speed. Those two fans aren't enough.
Heat will rob power. The hood was open. You'll need to closed. An proper air speed to see results similar to what would actually happen on the road.
Let's see the hood closed. Heat soaked. No air box/no vent from turn signal light. Intake on intake side and exhaust side.
Then add a air box with a proper signal vent. Air speed will be important...
My iat dropped a bunch. Doesn't get heat soaked nearly as fast. Timing starts getting pulled when it's to hot. That doesn't happen now.
Watch power banks.
What about a test with hood closed ( hot air) and a cold air intake system taking air from the bottom of front bumper.
Even if the results weren't vastly different, i enjoy watching this scientific approach.
Noise would be an interesting test. I ran the shorty intake on an NB and it was properly loud and a bit wearing when you weren’t on it.
great test, would be very curious to see AFR's on all these as well with the stock ECU and bolt ons at 125hp
The short ram is gonna suck hotter air while the longer (if done right) take colder air from outside the car is gonna have air thats more dense then the hot air thats expanded inside the engine bay
Okay - NICE - What about dyno testing: 1. the differences in WHP between different wheel diameters? 2. the differences in WHP between different wheel sizes(14'', 15'' etc - whilst paying attention to tyre weight) & 3. the differences in WHP due to varying wheel weights(light - 25lbs is possible with a 14'' RPF1 & a YOKOHAMA ADVAN A052 181/55 - to heavy)? P.S. 4. could be a test of different wheel designs affect on WHP - but we'd need to discuss why I think it matters first... =]
Hey guys... great simple tests. Love the wrap up you do!
I race an NB1 RS with standard spec engine ECU etc down here in NZ (feel free to see my Videos :) )... I have a square top inlet plenum I picked up and have grafted a skunk type (bigger) throttle body (removing and smoothing aluminium to transition nicely). My question is, should I stick with the VICS (as your car uses) or are there extra BHP's in the Square top... also, how bad does driveability get down low, will I regret the squaretop pulling out of slower corners or are the gains at high rev's just too much to resit the change?
i.e. can you please test a square top inlet against the VICS inlet.
Thank you!... I'll dedicate my first win to you if it all come together.
Keep up the great work!
We need a exhaust cam in the intake slot test
Thanks for the data
Great stuff
subscribed😎
How long were the pipes? the Honda K24 reaches max power at 900-1000mm length
Other studies put the best length 18"-22"
Id be curious if intake pipe shape makes any difference. A friend brought me a goofy looking ARC crossover pipe from Japan, I doubt it makes any power but it does look neat under the hood.
I did the short method I’ve bought the car like 3 weeks ago and I’ve changed the spark plugs with ngk blue ones at the same time as the air filter (simota) and I think I ve gained some power if there is any1 here to tell me that the ngk plugs added some power let me know … cause I dont
I’m curious on the filter over header
missed opportunities in bigger tubes. don't waste your time doing step up or step downs, good filter vs velocity stack doesn't matter.
21" my guess
i wish yall dyno'd with the hood closed. that would have really tested it
Then you will really like the next video coming out :)
@@leroyengineering sick
Great scientific approach! 🧪