Thanks so much man that location of where you mount the limb pad is critical! Very helpful information about how to maximise the forgiveness of the rebound dampner
Great instructional video. What is particularly impressive is your ability to deliver clean crisp images of what you are working on without a videographer helping out. There are some "shock jock" channels out there just "pumping out" "content" (not quite but it makes me think of the "Howard Stern" of archery videos). Hey, they are okay, but frankly their content is often crappy and in being so, it is disrespectful of the audience - meaning they do an AWFUL job of actual providing images and descriptions of what they are working on - as if that is an afterthought. Which it probably is. Despite the fact that they often have a 3rd party shooting the video (based on the poor quality, it must be the middle school kid next door. LOL.). The "shock jock" channels also tend to provide crappy half arse measurements and round things up or down randomly (seems dependent on which bow they want to "push"). Not to say I don't appreciate the shock jock channels somewhat for what they are, and I'm NOT saying they don't know what they are doing. But their presentations are often "sloppy" at best while you actually do good quality work. I get annoyed when I have to listen to a 20-30 video, watching sections more than once to glean 5 minutes of information. YOU do not do that to your viewers. Many others do.... Maybe I am an outlier, but I'm not looking for a couple or three "buds' goofing off and joking and yapping up a storm and / or making lewd sexual references. Hey, that's all good - but not what I'm looking for in a technical video. I want information professionally and concisely delivered. You excel at that. Hopefully it proves to be a good business model for you. Thank you for respecting your viewers! Thank you for what you do!
Nate -- thanks for a great video and setup. Anyone who thinks that they can tune the amount of contact time is kidding themselves. I bet a group of NASA scientists would not be able to predictably tune contact time [arrow to the rest] by varying the tie in location on the limb. (1) lets say you are shooting a heavy hunting arrow at 280 FPS. The arrow is going to leave the bow within approx .005 seconds. Do you think you can tune the rest to drop in half that time ? (2) The limb is moving in an arc, which means the tip of the limb is moving faster than the inside part of the limb. This is true, because the outer tip has to cover more distance in the same time as the inner part of the limb. Think of a record player. The outer rim of the vinyl record is moving much faster than the inside groove, but the entire record is spinning at 33 RPM. Anyone who thinks that they can tune the drop-action of the rest to split 1/1000ths of seconds while defying the laws of physics is high as a kite.
I use a 3/4" long 5/16-24 headless hex screw in the 2nd berger hole to align the arrow rest and prevent the arm from pivoting if the actual mounting screw ever loosens. You should pre-stretch the rest's timing cord before you install it back onto the rest.
Another great video Nate. I recently (a couple months ago) had the left handed version of the Hamskea Primer rest installed on my now infamous 2006 PSE after shooting a whisker biscuit for 14 seasons. I plan on bringing it to the Tethrd Teach and Train. My cousin had to install it as a cable driven rest since my bow has a short riser and long highly angled limbs and it kept slipping even with the pad. I am enjoying shooting with it so far. I have shot probably close to 100 arrows through it. I have seen some wear on the felt tape they give you right in the arrow channel and it has almost came unstuck but I pressed it on again. If I have that issue again I will use your heat shrink tubing idea. I actually am the assistant department manager in electrical at Menards. We have plenty there. Thank you again for sharing this with us.
I have had an AAE Hawkeye sitting in the package for years. I bought it on sale and then realized it had no micro-adjustments at all, so I never was inspired to use it. Probably about time to give it a try.
Want one for my Turkey bow. After years with a Biscuit I switched to the Trinity last year on my Deer bow for more FOC and I really like it. Easier for me tuning as well. I like things that are built like a tank.
Question about the heat shrink.. It looks like some form of that on your shelf and up the riser slightly as well? I've used felt in the past to help silence, but this heat shrink trick for the launcher is pretty nifty!
Shot it all day today and so far I don't see a single "downside". Still overbuilt than 99% of rests out there, and tunes like a dream as the video clearly shows. I think Hamskea really hit all the right notes for this price point.
Hey Nate something I’ve never heard anyone mention about the hamskea rests is that when you set up the rest farther back behind the shelf it manipulates brace height.. Was wondering if you could make a video to better educate us followers on that particular topic. Or just briefly explain your thoughts with a reply cause I know your busy with your business. Thx
I just put one of these on last night. I’m finding that I have to take the guard off just to have some adjustment. The guard hits the rest and won’t allow me to move the rest fully towards the riser. Maybe operator error so I’m trying again this morning.
Hi, I have Hamskea epsilon mount on the Mathews v3x ,can you please till me why the silicone piece on the launcher worn out so fast? is there something to adjust on the bow? Thank you
Any advantages to moving a drop away toward the riser or away from it? As far as tuning or timing? Also how are you testing to see where your bow "likes" the cord attached?
The former question is about true torque tuning. Paige Pearce here on UA-cam has a good video about that. The cord attachment point is a matter of playing with grip pressure and seeing how much I can get away with in a "worst case scenario" type of grip. Sometimes the closer to the limb tip it is, the longer it holds, and bad grip pressure leads to bad tuning. Not close enough and it doesn't hold on long enough and the same results can occur. You get the idea.
Im new to drop aways and was wondering...how do i adjust a nock high shot? Cuz i know that whisker biscuits you can go up and down with left and right. But my QAD Ultra rest hunter. Seems to go only left and right... Im jus shooting an arrow with no fletching at a hard foam target
I just prefer the ease of use with the timing cords. Plus, they seem to be generally better built than rest activated cords. Hamskeas are the Ferraris of limb drivers though, don't get me wrong.
The rest I had put on my Brand new Mathews was a Rip-Cord Drive Cage micro, and it only had 1 bolt and 1 set screw, the set screw did not hold the rest very well, and it moved, (tilted) and cannot really be tightened very well to lock it down. The engineers who designed this system with only a set screw to hold the rest to stop a pivot did a poor job.
On Amazon I can get the trinity for the same price as the hybrid hunter I'm just deer hunting but I hunt from a saddle and the ground witch would you get
Nice video. One question, I have basically the same drop away rest. You said you like to shoot without the containment cage. If you have the containment cage on it, would your fletchings make contact with the top of the cage when you fire the arrow? I always been wondering that because I have a 5mm fmj with blazer fletchings and when the arrow passes through, it seems that the fletchings are awfully close to the top of the cage.
Smear a bit of Vaseline on the edge of your vane you think could make contact. Shoot. If the cage has any Vaseline on it, you're getting contact. If it's clean, then you're good to go!
My cord keeps coming loose (not very much but noticeable) every few shots...I made sure the limb pad wasn't slipping or anything. Any ideas on how to resolve this issue?
Stretch the heck out of it or replace it with D loop material and stretch the heck out of that prior to installing it. The D loop material is better. Also you might want to try knotting it how he does instead of using the football clamp or make sure you really crank the football clamp. I switchman my hybrid hunter pro to using BCY 24, stretched it, and use the football camp and have no slippage. The cord that comes with it stock is know for stretching over time. The benefits of using D loop material is you can leave a longer tag and die off a few d loops down the string and you always have a backup D loop if you break one in the field or at the range.
I just searched your channel yesterday for this video! Ha perfect timing! I have been shooting the hybrid hunter for 3 years now and really enjoy it but was never crazy about the “football” on the string, now I am definitely going change to a prusik knot. Do you have any recommendations for getting rid of the tension spring for the Hybrid Hunter? Another great video keep up the good work.
Unfortunately I seem to be one of the few that actually liked the spring 😅 BUT you can remove it and simply tie the cord to the screw head that holds the spring in place normally.
Hamskea was talking about making a retrofit for the Hybrid Hunter and Trinity to use the new dampener that comes standard on the new Primer rest, and eliminate the spring. I have not looked recently to see if it’s available yet. That might be a option though.
Enjoy your videos. Have you had any dealings with the RipCord Drive arrow rest? Searching for options on my new bow build. Pretty much sold on the Hamskea but wanted to know your thoughts on the two side by side. Thanks
Hello Nate. So it’s been three months more of shooting since you last commented. Still happy with primer? I ordered trinity but thinking of canceling for primer. Hunting bow only. Thanks.
Since it was a "backup bow" rest I don't shoot it as much as I do the Trinity or Hybrid. But in my times playing with it I have zero complaints about the rest. However, the new rubber rebound dampener is not my favorite at all. It works fine with the football clamp, but the prusik knot that I use eventually loosens up and slips over time as the rubber is much stiffer and doesn't want to flex the knot.
I tied KOTA’s prusic as well…sort of…I think. Lol! It doesn’t look exactly like his, but it functions the same. I did notice you mention in this video that there was a little play in the rest after you shot which you attributed to string stretch, which I totally agree with. However, my rest always has play (but no arrow clearance issues), and I’m wondering if it’s just because of the new dampener versus the springs used on the other rests Hamskea makes. In other words it has a little more “give” if you will. That’s basically what it’s designed for, but that little bit of “play”/movement I’m able to move the rest I think tweeks my OCD since I’m used to a cable driven rest that slapped down and had to be lifted up lol. My arrow still goes in my AAE riser arrow holder thingy with no issues, and I do not notice any evidence of my vanes hitting the launcher at all. Oh…I should also point out that I use the hole in the yoke splitter on my PSE Evolve 28 like Dudley has been doing. Long story to ask if you are still seeing a little bit of movement in it, or if your string stretched and it’s now solid as a rock? Thanks :)
Anecdotally, you'll get play in the rest attached to the yoke splitter. It's not a solid location like the limb and will flex and wiggle. Just a possibility!
Hey Nate, I've always just worried about clearance with my limb driven rest, how do you determine the best cable position, just shooting through paper? Thank you sir!
So I just recently bought one of the Hybrid Hunter Pros. First Drop away I have had. I had the archery shop install it for me. They tied the line to the Cam axle on the outside. Do you think this is a problem that I should address?
@@averagejackarchery ok sounds good cause I had just cut the excess off and singed the ends. Lol. So I would have had to get more cord to make it work. Thanks!
New to Hamskea. Bought an Atlas that came with a Hamskea Trinity. My Traverse has a QAD Integrated rest. I notice the Trinity is a lot louder than the QAD. Any tips on how to decrease the noise?
@@averagejackarchery it's like a string slap. The guy at the shop wasn't surprised due to the length of the cord that runs from the rest to the limb. Seems pretty loud, though
sometimes you can also set center shot by measuring to the center of the arrow from each side of the riser, like Bowtech recommends for center shot on their bows. For my Bowtech with my Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro I couldn't get center shot at 13/16 it was more like 11/16 but it's center to center that measurement so it's good.
Thanks so much man that location of where you mount the limb pad is critical! Very helpful information about how to maximise the forgiveness of the rebound dampner
I have the same hamskea rest on my BOWTECH REVOLT. And it works great nice and small and bullet proof. Drops smooth limb driven is the way to go.
I just picked one of these up for my new bow build. A PSE Xpedite NXT!!! I want to throw my heavy arrows as quick as I can. Thanks for this review!!!
Love my Primer. Less bells and whistles, less things to go wrong, and super heavy-duty.
Great instructional video.
What is particularly impressive is your ability to deliver clean crisp images of what you are working on without a videographer helping out.
There are some "shock jock" channels out there just "pumping out" "content" (not quite but it makes me think of the "Howard Stern" of archery videos). Hey, they are okay, but frankly their content is often crappy and in being so, it is disrespectful of the audience - meaning they do an AWFUL job of actual providing images and descriptions of what they are working on - as if that is an afterthought. Which it probably is. Despite the fact that they often have a 3rd party shooting the video (based on the poor quality, it must be the middle school kid next door. LOL.). The "shock jock" channels also tend to provide crappy half arse measurements and round things up or down randomly (seems dependent on which bow they want to "push"). Not to say I don't appreciate the shock jock channels somewhat for what they are, and I'm NOT saying they don't know what they are doing. But their presentations are often "sloppy" at best while you actually do good quality work. I get annoyed when I have to listen to a 20-30 video, watching sections more than once to glean 5 minutes of information. YOU do not do that to your viewers. Many others do....
Maybe I am an outlier, but I'm not looking for a couple or three "buds' goofing off and joking and yapping up a storm and / or making lewd sexual references. Hey, that's all good - but not what I'm looking for in a technical video. I want information professionally and concisely delivered. You excel at that. Hopefully it proves to be a good business model for you.
Thank you for respecting your viewers!
Thank you for what you do!
Nate -- thanks for a great video and setup. Anyone who thinks that they can tune the amount of contact time is kidding themselves. I bet a group of NASA scientists would not be able to predictably tune contact time [arrow to the rest] by varying the tie in location on the limb. (1) lets say you are shooting a heavy hunting arrow at 280 FPS. The arrow is going to leave the bow within approx .005 seconds. Do you think you can tune the rest to drop in half that time ? (2) The limb is moving in an arc, which means the tip of the limb is moving faster than the inside part of the limb. This is true, because the outer tip has to cover more distance in the same time as the inner part of the limb. Think of a record player. The outer rim of the vinyl record is moving much faster than the inside groove, but the entire record is spinning at 33 RPM. Anyone who thinks that they can tune the drop-action of the rest to split 1/1000ths of seconds while defying the laws of physics is high as a kite.
Thanks for putting this out. Just ordered a Primer and this video will be extremely helpful. 👍
I use a 3/4" long 5/16-24 headless hex screw in the 2nd berger hole to align the arrow rest and prevent the arm from pivoting if the actual mounting screw ever loosens.
You should pre-stretch the rest's timing cord before you install it back onto the rest.
Another great video Nate. I recently (a couple months ago) had the left handed version of the Hamskea Primer rest installed on my now infamous 2006 PSE after shooting a whisker biscuit for 14 seasons. I plan on bringing it to the Tethrd Teach and Train. My cousin had to install it as a cable driven rest since my bow has a short riser and long highly angled limbs and it kept slipping even with the pad.
I am enjoying shooting with it so far. I have shot probably close to 100 arrows through it. I have seen some wear on the felt tape they give you right in the arrow channel and it has almost came unstuck but I pressed it on again. If I have that issue again I will use your heat shrink tubing idea. I actually am the assistant department manager in electrical at Menards. We have plenty there. Thank you again for sharing this with us.
I have had an AAE Hawkeye sitting in the package for years. I bought it on sale and then realized it had no micro-adjustments at all, so I never was inspired to use it. Probably about time to give it a try.
I just ordered two, thanks for the heads up.
Want one for my Turkey bow. After years with a Biscuit I switched to the Trinity last year on my Deer bow for more FOC and I really like it. Easier for me tuning as well. I like things that are built like a tank.
Just ordered this rest. Excited to try it out
Using this on my victory 39 also. No cage and different blade. Bow is used only for target
Question about the heat shrink.. It looks like some form of that on your shelf and up the riser slightly as well? I've used felt in the past to help silence, but this heat shrink trick for the launcher is pretty nifty!
great video Nate! do you see any long term downsides to getting a primer over a hybrid hunter/trinity other than microtuning?
Shot it all day today and so far I don't see a single "downside". Still overbuilt than 99% of rests out there, and tunes like a dream as the video clearly shows. I think Hamskea really hit all the right notes for this price point.
Hey Nate something I’ve never heard anyone mention about the hamskea rests is that when you set up the rest farther back behind the shelf it manipulates brace height.. Was wondering if you could make a video to better educate us followers on that particular topic. Or just briefly explain your thoughts with a reply cause I know your busy with your business. Thx
How would you compare the VT Micro-Limb Driven rest to the Hamskea rests.
I just put one of these on last night. I’m finding that I have to take the guard off just to have some adjustment. The guard hits the rest and won’t allow me to move the rest fully towards the riser. Maybe operator error so I’m trying again this morning.
Hi, I have Hamskea epsilon mount on the Mathews v3x ,can you please till me why the silicone piece on the launcher worn out so fast? is there something to adjust on the bow? Thank you
I recently picked up a g2 38 looking at the epsilon or the qad which you recommend ?
Any advantages to moving a drop away toward the riser or away from it? As far as tuning or timing? Also how are you testing to see where your bow "likes" the cord attached?
The former question is about true torque tuning. Paige Pearce here on UA-cam has a good video about that. The cord attachment point is a matter of playing with grip pressure and seeing how much I can get away with in a "worst case scenario" type of grip. Sometimes the closer to the limb tip it is, the longer it holds, and bad grip pressure leads to bad tuning. Not close enough and it doesn't hold on long enough and the same results can occur. You get the idea.
Does moving the drop away or toward the bow rest affect anything. Looks like my drop
Away needs to be moved back as far as I can get it.
Im new to drop aways and was wondering...how do i adjust a nock high shot? Cuz i know that whisker biscuits you can go up and down with left and right. But my QAD Ultra rest hunter. Seems to go only left and right... Im jus shooting an arrow with no fletching at a hard foam target
I love your pink blind... Nice set up lol
I may have missed it, but why do you prefer a limb driven rest.
I just prefer the ease of use with the timing cords. Plus, they seem to be generally better built than rest activated cords. Hamskeas are the Ferraris of limb drivers though, don't get me wrong.
The rest I had put on my Brand new Mathews was a Rip-Cord Drive Cage micro, and it only had 1 bolt and 1 set screw, the set screw did not hold the rest very well, and it moved, (tilted) and cannot really be tightened very well to lock it down. The engineers who designed this system with only a set screw to hold the rest to stop a pivot did a poor job.
Can you please do a video on hamskea Trinity hunter Pro? To install and set up on a bow.
Like I said in the video, it'ss literally the exact same installation method I just did on the Primer.
@@averagejackarchery oh ok cool Thankyou
On Amazon I can get the trinity for the same price as the hybrid hunter I'm just deer hunting but I hunt from a saddle and the ground witch would you get
Nice video. One question, I have basically the same drop away rest. You said you like to shoot without the containment cage. If you have the containment cage on it, would your fletchings make contact with the top of the cage when you fire the arrow? I always been wondering that because I have a 5mm fmj with blazer fletchings and when the arrow passes through, it seems that the fletchings are awfully close to the top of the cage.
Smear a bit of Vaseline on the edge of your vane you think could make contact. Shoot. If the cage has any Vaseline on it, you're getting contact. If it's clean, then you're good to go!
@@averagejackarchery Great idea. Thanks bud
My cord keeps coming loose (not very much but noticeable) every few shots...I made sure the limb pad wasn't slipping or anything. Any ideas on how to resolve this issue?
Stretch the heck out of it or replace it with D loop material and stretch the heck out of that prior to installing it. The D loop material is better. Also you might want to try knotting it how he does instead of using the football clamp or make sure you really crank the football clamp. I switchman my hybrid hunter pro to using BCY 24, stretched it, and use the football camp and have no slippage. The cord that comes with it stock is know for stretching over time. The benefits of using D loop material is you can leave a longer tag and die off a few d loops down the string and you always have a backup D loop if you break one in the field or at the range.
I just searched your channel yesterday for this video! Ha perfect timing! I have been shooting the hybrid hunter for 3 years now and really enjoy it but was never crazy about the “football” on the string, now I am definitely going change to a prusik knot. Do you have any recommendations for getting rid of the tension spring for the Hybrid Hunter?
Another great video keep up the good work.
Unfortunately I seem to be one of the few that actually liked the spring 😅 BUT you can remove it and simply tie the cord to the screw head that holds the spring in place normally.
Hamskea was talking about making a retrofit for the Hybrid Hunter and Trinity to use the new dampener that comes standard on the new Primer rest, and eliminate the spring. I have not looked recently to see if it’s available yet. That might be a option though.
Enjoy your videos. Have you had any dealings with the RipCord Drive arrow rest? Searching for options on my new bow build. Pretty much sold on the Hamskea but wanted to know your thoughts on the two side by side. Thanks
RipCord makes solid cable driven rests. I'm not a fan of their limb driven stuff. QAD doesn't even bugger with it. Hamskea doesn't touch cable driven.
Thanks for the great video. When you say 13/16”, is that 13/16” from the riser to the center of the your arrow (center of the launcher arm)?
Yes!
@@averagejackarchery Awesome, thank you.
Where would you recommend setting the limb pad on the Bear Cruiser X? It's similar to the Kure
Gotta play with it to find the optimal tune. But 1.5" from limb tip is a good starting point.
Hello Nate. So it’s been three months more of shooting since you last commented. Still happy with primer? I ordered trinity but thinking of canceling for primer. Hunting bow only. Thanks.
Since it was a "backup bow" rest I don't shoot it as much as I do the Trinity or Hybrid. But in my times playing with it I have zero complaints about the rest. However, the new rubber rebound dampener is not my favorite at all. It works fine with the football clamp, but the prusik knot that I use eventually loosens up and slips over time as the rubber is much stiffer and doesn't want to flex the knot.
I tied KOTA’s prusic as well…sort of…I think. Lol! It doesn’t look exactly like his, but it functions the same. I did notice you mention in this video that there was a little play in the rest after you shot which you attributed to string stretch, which I totally agree with. However, my rest always has play (but no arrow clearance issues), and I’m wondering if it’s just because of the new dampener versus the springs used on the other rests Hamskea makes. In other words it has a little more “give” if you will. That’s basically what it’s designed for, but that little bit of “play”/movement I’m able to move the rest I think tweeks my OCD since I’m used to a cable driven rest that slapped down and had to be lifted up lol. My arrow still goes in my AAE riser arrow holder thingy with no issues, and I do not notice any evidence of my vanes hitting the launcher at all. Oh…I should also point out that I use the hole in the yoke splitter on my PSE Evolve 28 like Dudley has been doing. Long story to ask if you are still seeing a little bit of movement in it, or if your string stretched and it’s now solid as a rock? Thanks :)
Anecdotally, you'll get play in the rest attached to the yoke splitter. It's not a solid location like the limb and will flex and wiggle. Just a possibility!
On an elite ritual 30, where on the limb would you attach the rest cord? 2.5” just like on this Kure? Thank you
Good place to start! I don't see why it wouldn't work there.
Hey Nate, I've always just worried about clearance with my limb driven rest, how do you determine the best cable position, just shooting through paper? Thank you sir!
You mean on activation cable? Yes, it's all just trial and error.
@@averagejackarchery yes I did, and got it, thanks
A little off topic but do you have a recommendation for arrow grain for the mosquitos up here in Alaska, asking for a freind
Gotta be quick with them. I go no less than 452FPS.
So I just recently bought one of the Hybrid Hunter Pros. First Drop away I have had. I had the archery shop install it for me. They tied the line to the Cam axle on the outside. Do you think this is a problem that I should address?
Nope! Only if tuning is a nightmare. Then consider different string location options.
@@averagejackarchery ok sounds good cause I had just cut the excess off and singed the ends. Lol. So I would have had to get more cord to make it work. Thanks!
New to Hamskea. Bought an Atlas that came with a Hamskea Trinity. My Traverse has a QAD Integrated rest. I notice the Trinity is a lot louder than the QAD. Any tips on how to decrease the noise?
What kind of noise are you experiencing?
@@averagejackarchery it's like a string slap. The guy at the shop wasn't surprised due to the length of the cord that runs from the rest to the limb. Seems pretty loud, though
Curious as to what ratio the heat shrink tube is...2:1 or 3:1? Thanks
Oh, I have no idea. Didn't dive that far into it. I just grabbed generic shrink tube off the shelf at Lowes.
Man o man he talks no stop
Have you tried tool handle dip on your blades?
I haven't but that's a good idea!
@@averagejackarchery let me know how it works…..if I beat you to it, I’ll do the same.
everyone says 13/16 but is that from the center of the arrow or the inner edge. Thanks
Center
sometimes you can also set center shot by measuring to the center of the arrow from each side of the riser, like Bowtech recommends for center shot on their bows. For my Bowtech with my Hamskea Hybrid Hunter Pro I couldn't get center shot at 13/16 it was more like 11/16 but it's center to center that measurement so it's good.
Do you ever put bare shaft through paper?
I've got about 5-6 videos of me doing just that.
I put this on my pse evl and it hits my riser pretty bad
Reach out to Hamskea. They made an updated launcher and rest arm to help with that on certain bows. Had to do it with a different bow of mine.
Hellowwwwwww everyone.. hahahahahaha
i searched gorilla tag and this showed up
Why were you searching for gorilla tag?
Whole lot going on here. Remember it just a rest keep it simple. This is not simple.