I’m a new shooter but I like working on my own bow and these videos really help, I tied in my first peep sight with your videos help last week. Thanks for taking the time to do these.
I just ordered the Trinity today . Switching from the QAD HDX. This video helped a lot . The chalk trick is just what I needed to know whether I’m getting clearance. Great video as usual. Thanks
I hope you realise how many people you are helping out! Fantastic content! Thanking you! I have the Hamskea trinity rest and every now and then when I draw the bow the rest remains seated. Could you point me in the right direction as to how to rectify this issue. Kind regards
Hmm something is hanging it up. Do you have a quiver on your bow when you're shooting? Sometimes if the quiver butts up against the rest in will inhibit the arm of the rest that the cord is attached to
Just received my first Hamskea and am getting ready to put it on my Elite Kure. I’ve set up a lot of QAD but this is the first time going w a limb driven rest. Thanks for making and sharing your knowledge. This was a great tip on where to start. I always learn somethings when watching your material. Keep up the good work.
the fact that the tension can loosen up and mess with the timing is almost enough of a reason to stick with cable driven. You can put in the work to get your timing just right and then have to do it again.
Well if the tension on a cable driven slips there’s no way of telling until the rest doesn’t drop and your arrow hits the dirt at 20 yards. The cord shouldn’t ever slip on your limb if it’s tied in correctly. I’ve had mine on for 3 years and it’s never moved one bit
@@InsideOutPrecision okay thanks. i think you have me convinced to switch over to limb driven now. are you still using the single pin with slider for hunting? i'm about to buy a new rest and sight
What happens when you change the rest tension (not the cord, but the inner spring that holds the rest up with either more or less pressure)? What happens to nock travel if rest drops sooner?
I think people over think this. I prefer my cord to stay tight. I don't want it loose at all. I run hamskeas on my Elite Envy Elite Gt500 and Reign 6. Keeping the cord tight without having the spring stretched at all is what I believe to be the best way to set them up. Absolutely zero issues. These hamskeas are very easy to put on a bow. Its literally bolt it on, center it and get elevation right then just tie it to limb and tighten cord. There's no thinking involved with these.
Always great videos. I have the exact same rest and I love it. I put my bow on a vertical draw board with an arrow I was watching the rest drop as I let the string down. Is this a good method too?
Ive seen a few of these Hamskea rest tied down onto the yoke of the Mathews. What are your thoughts? John Dudley did this on a PSE build. What are your thoughts? less exposed chord.
I just bought a Hamskea Pro Hunter and the little football looking clamp hit my riser below the spring when I shot. I’m nervous about the string stretching in general. What are your thoughts on running the cord direct from rest to the limb and avoid the spring altogether? I want my rig setup for hunting and the spring concerns me. My shop said the rest may flutter but it seems to shoot just fine. What are your thoughts on this good or bad?
So what about the drop away rest?? I’m new at a bow.... so I just bought the cabela’s drop away rest and I would like to know more about timing a drop away rest
Limb driven is hands down more reliable. If the cord stretches you will see the rest raise slightly, and you just tighten the cord. You won't be able to see the stretch in a cable driven and suddenly it won't drop
@@InsideOutPrecision Thank you for responding. Im new to archery and trying to learn as much as possible. You’re the reason I bought the PSE Drive NXT. Love it.
Great video thanks for the explanation quick question have you ever run into issues where the launcher was too stiff? Causing tail high tears? And if so is it correctable? Let’s say for example on a trophy taker limb driven
Having a problem with a rest on my PSE carbon stealth - trying to tie it into the cable teardrop ALA' John Dudley.... Thinking that is NOT the best option... Keep the cable on the limb where they manufacturer designed it to go? Thank you, wish I lived closer !!!!
So new to a drop away, got my hamskea trinity hunter pro installed and when i come to full draw, right as im dropping into the valley, my arrow jumps. I have softt knocks tied with a small amount of wiggle room so wouldn't think this is due to knock pinch. Is there something that i may neex to adjust in the rest itself??? Help haha
my limbs have a curve near the tip like yours, wondered if its possible to have the rest dropping too soon... actually get vein contact with the rubber arrow shelf cover on my riser.... I feel like I have other issues but trying to narrow it down.
@@InsideOutPrecision thank you, what if the nock was high, or the timing out of wack and it’s dropping early..... the upright arrow rest put the arrow ever so slightly higher with the Berger holes... nock seems high certainly higher than level.
Negative. Cable driven redt really only have one spot that they'll work correctly. They only stay up for 5-8 before dropping. If you try to change that, they wont drop at all and your arrow will smash the launcher everytime
so i just have mine really tight and toward the back. does it make a difference if its loose or tight? should i loosen it up a bit. i mean i have mine as tight as i could get it. i still dont get teh difference.
People make things so complicated. I have hamskeas on my bows and I haven't had to do anything but attach the cord to the limb and tighten the cord until the rest is down then done. No tuning issues to speak of. Limb driven rest dont really need timed like cable driven rest do especially the hamskea
Yeah definitely true. But you can change the timing to get it to drop faster or slower. Some bows with lots of nock travel need to drop sooner, other ate fine with it dropping at the last possible second.
I wouldn't set up my rest cord to be anywhere near my cam at all. I want it in front of anywhere the cam would ever be. To me, it is a disaster waiting to happen. If that is how it is supposed to be set up, then it will be back to a cable driven rest for me.
@@defundguncontrol9131 I see what you are saying, but I have seen over 100 cable driven rests that have failed because of cold weather, cable stretch, faulty springs, etc. And I have never seen a cable get caught in the cam, even on bows that derail from being dry fired. Just my opinion but I like those odds alot better.
I have a Trophey Taker smack down pro and I just noticed that it’s pulling back too far and not supporting the arrow at all while I aim. First time shooting it in a month but I didn’t change anything. Any ideas?
@@InsideOutPrecision Game Taker is replacing the whole rest! Thanks for your help. It was the limit screw. Now I thoroughly understand how the rest works!
I keep seeing the counter weight in the cams on Mathews bows. Is there a possibility that those weights can be removed for more speed? Can you get away with it maybe using a heavier arrow and pick up energy to a heavy arrow? I understand it would likely cause more vibration and noise. But is there an arrow that could almost eliminate that issue, and pick up energy?
I’m having a weird problem, I shoot bullet holes with a whisker biscuit and crazy right tears when shooting drop always. I’ve tried a qad and a hamskea and set the center shot all the same. Biscuit equals bullet hole and drops ways equal 3-4!inch right tears. Any thoughts on what could be going on?
Sounds like you need to tune your bow. Whisker biscuits are hard to tell what arrow is doing before the tail goes through, but I'd bet its still way right until the very end. Either way, there's some pretty violent nock travel. What kind of bow are you shooting?
Inside Out Precision I’m shootings an Xpedition mx15. They recommend center shot between 7/8 and 15/16th so I start there. I added 3 twist to the right yoke and removed 3 from the left. And had no noticeable effect on the tear. I’ve essentially maxed out the qad to the left in order to eliminate the right tear now my arrow is 1.1 inch from the riser and just looks ridiculous. I tried the hamskea to see if there was any improvement and I’m getting the same results. I’ve torque tuned and tried a few different grips per recommendations from others with no change. The bow is a 5 inch brace but mechanically I can’t see anything I’m doing wrong to be causing it. And there a no fletching contact because I’m doing this bare shaft
Inside Out Precision I’m not really a beginner when it comes to this stuff either which is why it’s getting frustrating at this point. I’ve tuned Mathews, hoyts, bowtechs, elites and the list goes on. The Xpedition really seem to not like me lol
@@strikingdistance56 swap the top limbs and see if it helps. I've experienced that with lots of expeditions. Limb deflections aren't the same and if the stiffer limb is on the wrong side it can wreak havoc.
Inside Out Precision thanks for the advice the limb deflection from tune charts are 42/46 42 being on the shelf side and looks good on the bow but at this point I will gladly try anything. I’ll do that tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
Heavy hunting arrow is leaving the bow @ approx 280 - 290 FPS, possibly 300 FPS. The arrow is going to clear the rest in .005 seconds. That is 5/1000ths of a second. Do you really think that you can "time" the arrow to have contact for 50%, 75%, 90% of that split second ? The end of the limb is travelling faster than the inside of the limb, just like a vinyl record. So, I seriously doubt that it makes any difference where you tie the string to the limb. Someone needs to show the super slooooooooooooooooooooooowmo video that there is any ability to significantly change the timing and ACCURACY be varying the attachment point on the limb. If you want the arrow to be fully supported, than get a Whisker Biscuit or other fixed rest. Please tell me why I am wrong ?
Tie the rest to end of the limb verses 4” down the limb and put the bow in a draw board. It will pick up sooner and drop later the closer to the tip it’s tied. Not rocket science!
@@InsideOutPrecision thanks for the reply... if you have not actually measured contact time during launch, putting the bow in a draw board doesn't prove much. How soon the arrow is picked up is meaningless, the only timing of concern is the contact with the rest after the string is released. The arrow is going to clear the rest in .005 seconds based on mathematics. That's not rocket science. How much "contact" time do you think you can vary 1 or 2 thousands of a second? I'm calling MythBusters !
@@Clambelly and in that few thousands of a second the rest is support 6-8 more inches of the shaft. It’s all relative. I will make a high speed video to show you. If you don’t believe me, ask the engineers that designed it. They have a much better understanding than either of us. That being said, I have spoken to them about this very issue and they told me that the longer you can get the rest to stay up, while still maintaining full vane clearance, the better. This is a public page and I appreciate you watching, happy hunting👍
I realize this is off topic but I NEED HELP! I live in Albuquerque NM and the archery shops here have no womens compound bows, or pros interested in helping me find a bow and get set up. PLEASE, can someone recommend a PROFESSIONAL archery shop with set up techs that carry many brands that I as a woman can try. All the weight limits here are minimum 50lbs...I can't pull that. Can't decide on a bow I can't feel from start to finish the pull on it. I'm willing to drive to AZ or TX if need be but I want professional help. My budget is over 2k and I mean business. Please someone help a lady out!
@@DaveGme Oh my, so glad someone answered me. Hit or Miss Archery and Archery Shop are the two main archery stores here. I've tried looking up other archery shops within 250 miles of me... nothing comes up but those. At least nothing with a website that will tell me what kind of services they offer.
All archery shops are busy this time of year during hunting season. I frequent both of those establishments. Hit or Miss is my go to shop now, but not being open on Sunday makes them a madhouse on Saturday. I know you can get private lessons at The Archery Shoppe. They set up a bow for my wife off the shelf and she was hooked. That being said, we buy almost all of our equipment off Facebook now. It might be an idea to ask the guys at Hit or Miss if there’s a good time that they can set aside for you. I agree that there aren’t a lot of sub 50 pound bows on the shelf at shops. They don’t bring in too many customers.
@@DaveGme I appreciate the repl... though disappointed. I was hoping someone could point me in a direction I haven't tried. Thre people at Hit or Miss haven't exactly tried to help. They act... bothered more than anything. The guy at Archery Shoppe was very friendly but he just didn't have the bows I wanted to try in the poundage capacity I need. I'm not a totally newb.. but I want VIP treatment for the money I'm going to throw at my next new bow. It's frustrating when you watch UA-cam's that show women getting the attention they need to get going and find what you get here. It's like, "well, we don't carry those bows in that poundage." I'm like... did you not just hear me say I'm looking for a very expensive bow and I'd like you guys to set me up, I'll pay for your time?" Guess business must be good enough that they don't need my money. Sad. Thank again. Glad your wife got set up well. I have a PSE, ready to move on, it was my starter bow. At least my hubby will get something.
We've experienced the same thing at both shops. We rarely walk through the doors at The Archery Shoppe anymore, and that's after buying two bows and just about every accessory. Wish I had a better answer for you. We just kept going back to Hit or Miss until we found a time they could help us between birthday parties. We live in Gallup, so it's just weekends for us. I miss living two hours from Lancaster Archery where every bow you could think of was sitting right there. Good luck. Hope to see you at Hit or Miss. You'd be wecome to try my wife's Hoyt with 40 pound limbs.
I’m a new shooter but I like working on my own bow and these videos really help, I tied in my first peep sight with your videos help last week. Thanks for taking the time to do these.
I bet none of these drop away rest come with instructions as good as this video!
Thanks 😎
Love the chalk tip, heaps cheaper than foot spray!
I just ordered the Trinity today . Switching from the QAD HDX. This video helped a lot . The chalk trick is just what I needed to know whether I’m getting clearance. Great video as usual. Thanks
Thanks, wondered about how I needed to set it. Now I know. Your videos are becoming one of my go to when it comes to questions I have.
I hope you realise how many people you are helping out! Fantastic content!
Thanking you!
I have the Hamskea trinity rest and every now and then when I draw the bow the rest remains seated.
Could you point me in the right direction as to how to rectify this issue.
Kind regards
Hmm something is hanging it up. Do you have a quiver on your bow when you're shooting? Sometimes if the quiver butts up against the rest in will inhibit the arm of the rest that the cord is attached to
Just received my first Hamskea and am getting ready to put it on my Elite Kure. I’ve set up a lot of QAD but this is the first time going w a limb driven rest. Thanks for making and sharing your knowledge. This was a great tip on where to start. I always learn somethings when watching your material. Keep up the good work.
Nice work. I appreciate this explanation
Oh man! I thought you were going to throw it on a draw board an show us the optimal pick and drop timings.
a year too late but...he tells you at 3:00
Very helpful video, thank you !!
Thanks, this was very helpful.
Dude just saw this. U r the man
Great info as always👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Hey my arrow slingin' brotha! Funny thing - I just put a Hamskea Hybrid Target Pro on a TRX 7 today!
Nice I run the same rest. Love it
the fact that the tension can loosen up and mess with the timing is almost enough of a reason to stick with cable driven. You can put in the work to get your timing just right and then have to do it again.
Well if the tension on a cable driven slips there’s no way of telling until the rest doesn’t drop and your arrow hits the dirt at 20 yards. The cord shouldn’t ever slip on your limb if it’s tied in correctly. I’ve had mine on for 3 years and it’s never moved one bit
@@InsideOutPrecision okay thanks. i think you have me convinced to switch over to limb driven now. are you still using the single pin with slider for hunting? i'm about to buy a new rest and sight
@@vincentc2466 I run a 3 pin slider now. The axcel landslyde
What happens when you change the rest tension (not the cord, but the inner spring that holds the rest up with either more or less pressure)? What happens to nock travel if rest drops sooner?
I think people over think this. I prefer my cord to stay tight. I don't want it loose at all. I run hamskeas on my Elite Envy Elite Gt500 and Reign 6. Keeping the cord tight without having the spring stretched at all is what I believe to be the best way to set them up. Absolutely zero issues. These hamskeas are very easy to put on a bow. Its literally bolt it on, center it and get elevation right then just tie it to limb and tighten cord. There's no thinking involved with these.
Always great videos. I have the exact same rest and I love it. I put my bow on a vertical draw board with an arrow I was watching the rest drop as I let the string down. Is this a good method too?
Yeah that gives you a good idea if you slow it down, or need to speed it up
Ive seen a few of these Hamskea rest tied down onto the yoke of the Mathews. What are your thoughts? John Dudley did this on a PSE build. What are your thoughts? less exposed chord.
Lol, didnt mean to double what are your thoughts. sorry
Best place to put it on mathews vertix hamskea trinity
I just bought a Hamskea Pro Hunter and the little football looking clamp hit my riser below the spring when I shot. I’m nervous about the string stretching in general. What are your thoughts on running the cord direct from rest to the limb and avoid the spring altogether? I want my rig setup for hunting and the spring concerns me. My shop said the rest may flutter but it seems to shoot just fine. What are your thoughts on this good or bad?
So what about the drop away rest??
I’m new at a bow.... so I just bought the cabela’s drop away rest and I would like to know more about timing a drop away rest
Thought I covered that in the video haha. What more would you like to know?
Inside Out Precision well my rest doesn’t tie to the limb it ties to the cable
Sorry I didn’t mention that the rest I have doesn’t tie in to the limb
@@adrianrodriguez8104 oh gotcha. They can be a little more difficult to time. Kind of hard to explain over text, but maybe I'll do a video on it!
Inside Out Precision right on
Thank you very much bro
Which is most consistent between limb driven and cable driven? You mentioned the cord may stretch a little. Are the cords replaceable?
Limb driven is hands down more reliable. If the cord stretches you will see the rest raise slightly, and you just tighten the cord. You won't be able to see the stretch in a cable driven and suddenly it won't drop
@@InsideOutPrecision Thank you for responding. Im new to archery and trying to learn as much as possible. You’re the reason I bought the PSE Drive NXT. Love it.
Any tips if left fletch is hitting the left arrow containment on epsilon?
Great video thanks for the explanation quick question have you ever run into issues where the launcher was too stiff? Causing tail high tears? And if so is it correctable? Let’s say for example on a trophy taker limb driven
Do the Hamskea’s come with a bracket to attach the string to the limb or is it separate?
I see you have your rest back quite a ways do you find moving the rest forward or back effects timing? Any advantage to either?
Having a problem with a rest on my PSE carbon stealth - trying to tie it into the cable teardrop ALA' John Dudley.... Thinking that is NOT the best option... Keep the cable on the limb where they manufacturer designed it to go? Thank you, wish I lived closer !!!!
Yeah just go to the limb. More quiet and seems to function better
I have amathews v-3,29. with hamskea hybrid.can you tell me were is the best place on the limb to tie the driving string?
Does a Limb driven influence Cam Lean on today's Split Limb bows?
Looking at a Hamskea and they have a fair amount of tension to move the launcher.
No it’s not even close to enough to influence the limb.
What kind of hitch is used to attach activation cord to the limb/pad?
So new to a drop away, got my hamskea trinity hunter pro installed and when i come to full draw, right as im dropping into the valley, my arrow jumps. I have softt knocks tied with a small amount of wiggle room so wouldn't think this is due to knock pinch. Is there something that i may neex to adjust in the rest itself??? Help haha
my limbs have a curve near the tip like yours, wondered if its possible to have the rest dropping too soon... actually get vein contact with the rubber arrow shelf cover on my riser.... I feel like I have other issues but trying to narrow it down.
If you're contacting the rubber saddle then your rest is too low
@@InsideOutPrecision thank you, what if the nock was high, or the timing out of wack and it’s dropping early..... the upright arrow rest put the arrow ever so slightly higher with the Berger holes... nock seems high certainly higher than level.
Do these tips apply to cable driven rests as well?
Negative. Cable driven redt really only have one spot that they'll work correctly. They only stay up for 5-8 before dropping. If you try to change that, they wont drop at all and your arrow will smash the launcher everytime
So how do I get a trinity to stay up longer? Im about halfway down the arrow, I need to go further
Hi there what is the site on that bow please?
so i just have mine really tight and toward the back. does it make a difference if its loose or tight? should i loosen it up a bit. i mean i have mine as tight as i could get it. i still dont get teh difference.
What's your thoughts on tying the rest cord to the bottom yoke? I recently tried it on my traverse and it seems to work fine.
Yeah it moves the same as the limb tip
so if I have really fast bow (320 fps), should I have the arm drop earlier?
People make things so complicated. I have hamskeas on my bows and I haven't had to do anything but attach the cord to the limb and tighten the cord until the rest is down then done. No tuning issues to speak of. Limb driven rest dont really need timed like cable driven rest do especially the hamskea
Yeah definitely true. But you can change the timing to get it to drop faster or slower. Some bows with lots of nock travel need to drop sooner, other ate fine with it dropping at the last possible second.
What keeps that string from sliding on the limb ?
There’s a grooved rubber piece that you cinch around
I wouldn't set up my rest cord to be anywhere near my cam at all. I want it in front of anywhere the cam would ever be. To me, it is a disaster waiting to happen. If that is how it is supposed to be set up, then it will be back to a cable driven rest for me.
Why? I've never seen one break and get into the cam.
@@InsideOutPrecision Because it's always something that could happen. Keep moving parts away from each other.
@@defundguncontrol9131 I see what you are saying, but I have seen over 100 cable driven rests that have failed because of cold weather, cable stretch, faulty springs, etc. And I have never seen a cable get caught in the cam, even on bows that derail from being dry fired. Just my opinion but I like those odds alot better.
I agree more stuff to catch on stuff while hunting as well
How durable are those springs on the Hamskeas
Very durable!
Between the Hamskea and the Gen 7X. Which one you think is best
@@glennprince9983 That's a tough one...I like the launcher better on the Hamskea though. Really can't go wrong with either though
I have a Trophey Taker smack down pro and I just noticed that it’s pulling back too far and not supporting the arrow at all while I aim. First time shooting it in a month but I didn’t change anything. Any ideas?
The spring is uncoiled, or the little screw that stops the launcher from coming too far up has fallen out
@@InsideOutPrecision okay thanks, if the spring is uncoiled what is the fix?
@@jasonschwinabart7711 if your shop knows how to fix it they can, or you’ll have to send it back to trophy taker for warranty
@@InsideOutPrecision Game Taker is replacing the whole rest! Thanks for your help. It was the limit screw. Now I thoroughly understand how the rest works!
I keep seeing the counter weight in the cams on Mathews bows. Is there a possibility that those weights can be removed for more speed? Can you get away with it maybe using a heavier arrow and pick up energy to a heavy arrow? I understand it would likely cause more vibration and noise. But is there an arrow that could almost eliminate that issue, and pick up energy?
Why don't you just place your bow in a vertical draw board and check clearance witch a nocked arrow.
I’m having a weird problem, I shoot bullet holes with a whisker biscuit and crazy right tears when shooting drop always. I’ve tried a qad and a hamskea and set the center shot all the same. Biscuit equals bullet hole and drops ways equal 3-4!inch right tears. Any thoughts on what could be going on?
Sounds like you need to tune your bow. Whisker biscuits are hard to tell what arrow is doing before the tail goes through, but I'd bet its still way right until the very end. Either way, there's some pretty violent nock travel. What kind of bow are you shooting?
Inside Out Precision I’m shootings an Xpedition mx15. They recommend center shot between 7/8 and 15/16th so I start there. I added 3 twist to the right yoke and removed 3 from the left. And had no noticeable effect on the tear. I’ve essentially maxed out the qad to the left in order to eliminate the right tear now my arrow is 1.1 inch from the riser and just looks ridiculous. I tried the hamskea to see if there was any improvement and I’m getting the same results. I’ve torque tuned and tried a few different grips per recommendations from others with no change. The bow is a 5 inch brace but mechanically I can’t see anything I’m doing wrong to be causing it. And there a no fletching contact because I’m doing this bare shaft
Inside Out Precision I’m not really a beginner when it comes to this stuff either which is why it’s getting frustrating at this point. I’ve tuned Mathews, hoyts, bowtechs, elites and the list goes on. The Xpedition really seem to not like me lol
@@strikingdistance56 swap the top limbs and see if it helps. I've experienced that with lots of expeditions. Limb deflections aren't the same and if the stiffer limb is on the wrong side it can wreak havoc.
Inside Out Precision thanks for the advice the limb deflection from tune charts are 42/46 42 being on the shelf side and looks good on the bow but at this point I will gladly try anything. I’ll do that tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks again!
I think I would be worried I would catch that cord on something while in the woods hunting.
Never had an issue with it. When your quiver is on your bow it guards the cord. Doesn't hang up on anything anymore than your strings would.
Wouldn’t your bow string get snagged if that was a problem.
Same
Heavy hunting arrow is leaving the bow @ approx 280 - 290 FPS, possibly 300 FPS. The arrow is going to clear the rest in .005 seconds. That is 5/1000ths of a second. Do you really think that you can "time" the arrow to have contact for 50%, 75%, 90% of that split second ? The end of the limb is travelling faster than the inside of the limb, just like a vinyl record. So, I seriously doubt that it makes any difference where you tie the string to the limb. Someone needs to show the super slooooooooooooooooooooooowmo video that there is any ability to significantly change the timing and ACCURACY be varying the attachment point on the limb. If you want the arrow to be fully supported, than get a Whisker Biscuit or other fixed rest. Please tell me why I am wrong ?
Tie the rest to end of the limb verses 4” down the limb and put the bow in a draw board. It will pick up sooner and drop later the closer to the tip it’s tied. Not rocket science!
@@InsideOutPrecision thanks for the reply... if you have not actually measured contact time during launch, putting the bow in a draw board doesn't prove much. How soon the arrow is picked up is meaningless, the only timing of concern is the contact with the rest after the string is released. The arrow is going to clear the rest in .005 seconds based on mathematics. That's not rocket science. How much "contact" time do you think you can vary 1 or 2 thousands of a second? I'm calling MythBusters !
@@Clambelly and in that few thousands of a second the rest is support 6-8 more inches of the shaft. It’s all relative. I will make a high speed video to show you. If you don’t believe me, ask the engineers that designed it. They have a much better understanding than either of us. That being said, I have spoken to them about this very issue and they told me that the longer you can get the rest to stay up, while still maintaining full vane clearance, the better.
This is a public page and I appreciate you watching, happy hunting👍
I realize this is off topic but I NEED HELP! I live in Albuquerque NM and the archery shops here have no womens compound bows, or pros interested in helping me find a bow and get set up. PLEASE, can someone recommend a PROFESSIONAL archery shop with set up techs that carry many brands that I as a woman can try. All the weight limits here are minimum 50lbs...I can't pull that. Can't decide on a bow I can't feel from start to finish the pull on it. I'm willing to drive to AZ or TX if need be but I want professional help. My budget is over 2k and I mean business. Please someone help a lady out!
What shops have you tried?
@@DaveGme
Oh my, so glad someone answered me. Hit or Miss Archery and Archery Shop are the two main archery stores here. I've tried looking up other archery shops within 250 miles of me... nothing comes up but those. At least nothing with a website that will tell me what kind of services they offer.
All archery shops are busy this time of year during hunting season. I frequent both of those establishments. Hit or Miss is my go to shop now, but not being open on Sunday makes them a madhouse on Saturday. I know you can get private lessons at The Archery Shoppe. They set up a bow for my wife off the shelf and she was hooked. That being said, we buy almost all of our equipment off Facebook now. It might be an idea to ask the guys at Hit or Miss if there’s a good time that they can set aside for you. I agree that there aren’t a lot of sub 50 pound bows on the shelf at shops. They don’t bring in too many customers.
@@DaveGme
I appreciate the repl... though disappointed. I was hoping someone could point me in a direction I haven't tried. Thre people at Hit or Miss haven't exactly tried to help. They act... bothered more than anything. The guy at Archery Shoppe was very friendly but he just didn't have the bows I wanted to try in the poundage capacity I need. I'm not a totally newb.. but I want VIP treatment for the money I'm going to throw at my next new bow. It's frustrating when you watch UA-cam's that show women getting the attention they need to get going and find what you get here. It's like, "well, we don't carry those bows in that poundage." I'm like... did you not just hear me say I'm looking for a very expensive bow and I'd like you guys to set me up, I'll pay for your time?" Guess business must be good enough that they don't need my money. Sad. Thank again. Glad your wife got set up well. I have a PSE, ready to move on, it was my starter bow. At least my hubby will get something.
We've experienced the same thing at both shops. We rarely walk through the doors at The Archery Shoppe anymore, and that's after buying two bows and just about every accessory. Wish I had a better answer for you. We just kept going back to Hit or Miss until we found a time they could help us between birthday parties. We live in Gallup, so it's just weekends for us. I miss living two hours from Lancaster Archery where every bow you could think of was sitting right there. Good luck. Hope to see you at Hit or Miss. You'd be wecome to try my wife's Hoyt with 40 pound limbs.
Any bounce back on trinity?? I’m going back and fourth between vAPOR TRAIL gen 7 and trinity. What would you choose
Trninty all day. No rebound whatsoever