This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
This video popped up even tho I'm not looking to build an island, but I saw the length and given the context assumed it would be very detailed and probably had a lot of other jewels I could benefit from as a beginner woodworker. You did not disappoint, appreciate all the tips and tricks. Great video and build.
I'm interested in putting a butcher block top on my antique dresser and voila it's a kitchen island, I like the electrical outlets you did, I have an available wire so I'm gonna do that too!
Good Job! For large holes I recommend you to use automotive paste/filler, it is very cheap and with the catalyst, it cures in 5 minutes. It does not affect the finish at all.
Nice build.Two points of caution though: The plethora of screws prevents the laminated countertop from expanding and contracting in an area located next to a lot of air flow. Even if the lamination prevents twisting it does not protect from seasonal changes in width.Better:Use elongated holes in the stabilizer which is fixed with 2-3 machine screws to metal inserts.Second point;the flat steel bar is not suited for the chosen application since it will only prevent widthwise movement (horizontal force) and not prevent bowing/sagging/twisting.Better use C or U shaped pannel take up vertical forces.
@@dkbuildsThank you very much for your response to my comment. I hope my criticism was not too harsh but returns a little favor to you who puts so much time, efford and resources into this videos. Since I am well aware how convenient it is to sit on the sideline (as I do) when commenting on the work of other craftsmen. Your videos are great and I can only hope to become as good as you when it comes to woodworking. A fellow woodworker.
@@Baerenbruder87 Not at all. You are the only viewer who has identified this critical mistake. I plan to fix this properly and release a short followup video about it, and I will credit you for surfacing the issue. You rock!
Another issue may crop up with having the unfinished bottom of butcher block directly on top of the solid sub-top, not able to have air flow and being unfinished. It looks great though👍
@@Baerenbruder87 I will agree with Baerenbruder87. I don’t understand all his comments, but the overall point is true. Don’t beat yourself up, DK, as when I was your age, I made these same mistakes, too. You locked that massive slab wood top up tight with that steel bar, the exact opposite of what you should’ve done. And you should have gone with your gut and not used the flat steel bar. There are many other options, but given that you like to use the big box stores, they also sell steel bar in different dimensions. You could have used 1 inch square (or larger) and routed that into the top easily enough. It would resist the downward bending force much better than flat stock.
Great work. Being a cabinet maker of 30 years. Invest in a set of rail and stile router bit set from Freud and you’ll never regret it. Your work for being a woodworker for such a short time is flawless. Your hand work and dovetail work is amazing
Thanks so much for the kind words Steve, they mean a lot coming from an expert like yourself. And yes you're definitely right -- the next time I make cabinets I'll be investing in some high quality router bits. Take care!
This is dope. Nice to hear your voice and see you use some power tools, it almost makes your superhuman hand-tool work seem attainable one day. Props to your wife for being your mover buddy too... I'd definitely be calling a buddy for that while my wife supervised... she makes great snacks though.
Excelente proyecto muy bien desarrollado y mejor ejecutado , una fantástica y peculiar isla para la cocina , con un montón de almacenamiento , un tutorial un poco largo para mí gusto , lo ideal sería 15 minutos máximo , pero reconozco que es difícil comprimir tanto ingenió y creatividad , gracias por compartir sus conocimientos y experiencias , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón (Galicia) 🤓 🔝
First off, can I just say. . . WOW! . . . The Island is absolutely GORGEOUS! Came across your channel by accident, and saw this one, since we are in the middle of moving to a new (OLD) home, that has nothing in the kitchen that would make my life easier! This is a great start to renovating my new kitchen! Thanks for all the detailed info! :)
Amazing work, amazing channel. Started following you a wee while ago, probably during the first quarantine, and i'm still excited to this day everytime there's a notif for a new video. Thank you for sharing your talent!
Excellent video. I highly recommend you look into odies oil for natural wax finishes. It last much longer and is more water repellent than what you used. Very simple to use and you can sand it to higher grits for higher sheens. Just buffs on and off
@@dkbuilds I watch all your videos from start to finish not just so you get the watch time but because I truly enjoy and look forward to them. I hope my videos eventually bring a similar amount of excitement to those watching too!
Great build and video. Regarding the "problem" with the sides. A dubbel side construction could keep the side board the original size, and also house the elektric were, also the drawer didn't have to be "adjusted". Just a thought for the design.
Thanks for the tip Rob, I like the idea of a double side construction. My only concern is that the drawers would have to be made smaller (but it's probably a safer construction with regards to the electric outlet). Cheers!
@@dkbuilds If you put the extra side on the outside the total length would increase with 2x the depth of the elektrical box. Would be about 4 or 5 cm each side.
@@dkbuilds in the first reaction I said, it would keep de sideboard the original size, I should have said the drawers, my translation error, sorry. (Dutch - English)
I recently DIY'd a butcher block countertop and read from a few places that it's supposed to be secured to the frame via adjustable brackets that accommodate expansion and contraction. This means the screw holes in the brackets are elongated and let the screws slide a bit to prevent bowing when the block absorbs and releases moisture.
Thanks for the comment Morgan! You are absolutely right. That is a mistake I made in this video for sure. I made a followup video about exactly this topic correcting myself, thanks to comments like these from viewers like you. Cheers!
First of all great work I love the look. I did however noticed that you did not but any finish on the underside of the countertop. it is important that you seal the entire surfaces of the wood to keep it from warping. the raw underside will absorb moisture from the air and expand where the top won't.
@@dkbuilds got me thinking, I’ve made a few of these but never used mineral oil to finish. The underside will dry out so if you do this, I would use a hardening oil like boiled linseed oil. The top will most likely be replenished periodically.
Solid work as always, sir. I also appreciate your willpower to use all 6 beers as glue weight, when 5 would have probably worked while 1 could have "developed a hole" while watching that glue dry. 🤣
Beautiful work, David! It turned out better than I could imagine! 😃 About the flat iron bars, guys like Cam from Blacktail Studio normally use a C channel. But those are pretty thick table tops, so I believe your solution is perfect. 😊 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you MC! And very good point about the flat iron bars, in retrospect C is much firmer and less likely to bend under a vertical force. Stay safe with your family as well!
Hope you have better luck with iron-on edge banding than I have had. I've never gotten it to stick permanently to ply edges. I gave up on it years ago. I now use 3/8" (at least) solid wood on exposed edges attached with a good wood glue. More work for sure, but the top edges of drawers, and front edges of shelves take a beating... It's a good-looking build.
Thanks Charlie! I've had luck so far with edge banding, perhaps I have a different brand than you. Fingers crossed this doesn't delaminate over time. Solid wood is definitely better, just more difficult to do. I'll be on the lookout for delamination thanks to your feedback! Cheers
32:40 I don't know man, I would have used a stout. A little heavier to hold it down better. Came out great. I've seen c-channel used instead of flat bar for support. I'm guessing it would flex less due to its shape.
LOL good point Two Bit... wheat beer is way too light for this application. And, agreed. C-channel is better here, and attached with elongated holes to allow for more wood movement. I may modify this countertop in the future if I'm seeing any issues start. Thanks for the comment!
So pleased I found your channel and subscribed. Awesome seeing you do things like standing on the table and using cans and beer for clamps 🤣 I too have a small workshop and have to get inventive with my few tools and space at times. Keepin' it real. Love this island and that colour (which might be pronounced huh-ho-bah? heehee) 🍁
I would be concerned with not having the bottom finished with oil or some kind of protector. The bottom while hidden can still absorb moisture at a faster rate than the top and may cause it to want to warp as time goes on. By applying oil to the underside as well both sides should absorb moisture at a similar rate and limiting warping. Also while not technically an issue consider buying things like drawer slides and mineral oil off of Amazon. You could have saved yourself a considerable amount of money. Just the butcher block oil alone you could have gotten an entire gallon for what you paid for those 3 bottles. The drawer slides as wel, I believe you could have gotten 10 pair for what you paid for the 6 that you used if not less if you got them from Home Depot as I assume that you did. Just my 2 cents for what it is worth.
Those are some great tips, thanks McCart! I agree I wish I had oiled the underside. I haven't seen any issues so far, thankfully. Have you found the amazon drawer slides are as high quality as store bought?
@@dkbuilds yes I have found them to be just as good. I think the price is lower because you are buying 10 pair at once and not individual slides. Plus they are saving money on packaging. Now do not get me wrong you will find crappy ones but a lot of them are good. $125-145 for a set of 10 and cheaper if they do not need to be soft close. Im guessing you paid about $20-24 per slide at Home Depot.
Oh wow, what a piece of furniture. Well done! If you‘d upload videos more frequently, I‘d consider splitting it in two parts. The only thing I don’t like, are the power sockets. Have you considered painting them? Or maybe get them in black? We have „Bachmann Twist“ which sit flush with the countertop and they are easy to use.
Thank you Srv! Yeah, I was torn between multiple parts vs. one long video... I made a poll and people chose one long video, but it appears maybe that was the wrong choice. Lesson learned! I haven't considered painting the sockets. That Bachmann Twist looks interesting, thanks for sharing!
@@dkbuilds I can find time for 15‘ more easily than for 40‘ … and if you give us a cliffhanger, we will definitely watch you finishing your project. :-)
or.....OORRRR, give it a sec, buy 3 floor cabinets, put them together and then place a butcher block on top. Wouldnt be up to this quality obviously but dang, its a much simpler and cheaper (time invested + cost) LOVE the color though, great choice!
the metal straps are not needed the top would be fine without. you should start at the bottom, hanging drawer fronts, makes life a lot easier. instead of taking 20 minutes to get the tenon thickness right use a piece with the groove cut in in already and get it set until you remove it evenly, your tenons are way too loose.
Thanks for the input Adam! I started the drawer fronts from the top because I was looking for a very specific sized reveal under the countertop... otherwise I agree. Great tip with the tenon thickness adjustment!
Hey man - just stumbled across this video in my feed. First time I've seen your channel, and the island is a solid piece of work, well done! Looking forward to seeing what else your channel has! #Subbed
I'm glad to see you post a new post. I like your fine wood working posts more so, but a kitchen bench's call must be answered. Especially in a new abode. Did you bring that mitre saw / thicknesser stand with you or is it a new build?
Thanks so much Danny! I'm hoping to make more fine woodworking videos next... but, yes, this was a custom high-priority order from my most important customer, my wife 😇 I did indeed bring the flip top stand with me!
Nice work. Unfortunately I had an advertisement pop up every 3 minutes. It's a bit much if that's something you'd like to consider...I'm only one vote on this topic. Well done up through the 15 minute mark. Couldn't take any more advertisements. Best of luck in your YT journey.
Question for you. Drawer slides, is the 22” on the slide the length of the slide, the drawer or the drawer opening/depth? If it’s not obvious how do you determine the slide length? Thx
Hey ConcreteLand! These are the exact drawer slides I used: www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-22-in-Soft-Close-Full-Extension-Side-Mount-Ball-Bearing-Drawer-Slide-Set-1-Pair-2-Pieces-D94222E-ZP-W/302867630 22" is the slide length. Hope this helps!
Hi there, great video! I have the problem where when I build heavy things, my girlfriend struggles to help me lift it. Can you please tell me what that harness is called that you both used?
Thanks Riverside! I bought these straps to help me move and they're actually super convenient. Here is the exact straps I bought (not an affiliate link): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00022749Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@dkbuilds Thanks for your reply. I actually speak English but i just wanted to let you know somebody are enjoying your video from abroad. looking forward to see your next ups.
Great design and build. What type of plywood did you use and can you see any of the grain through the paint. I tried spraying some cheap plywood before, 3 coats primer and four of colour and I could still see the grain pattern when finished.
Thanks Derek! I used pretty high quality sanded plywood, and I cannot see the grain. I believe it is possible to use wood filler on the plywood surface before painting (maybe diluting it slightly according to the directions on the package) to fill up the grain. Hope that helps!
@@dkbuilds thank you for the response, this should help as I was not sure what caused my problem, wood, paint or spraying technique. When I tried it I just used a scrap piece of wood and paint that was laying about the shed (car paint). The purpose of it was to improve my spraying technique using an hvlp sprayer. Going to be replacing my full kitchen soon. Thanks for posting your techniques in your build design. 👍
Can u please tell me what color the island is ? I’m in the process of doing this same project and want a color that I love … and that color u painted is it… thanks in advance
I don't actually have the router insert for the SawStop! I built my own router cabinet, here's the video series: ua-cam.com/video/9TEL7V6KeCQ/v-deo.html Since that video I've upgraded it to include a JessEm router lift which I love. The only change I plan to still make is adding some t-tracks into the top surface.
Great work mate, but the worktop installation is totally unacceptable for solid wood, this massive slab needs to be allowed to expand and contract freely
Thanks Tim! And, I agree about the loose fit. However several months in with very heavy use the drawer fronts are still solid as a rock. Though, I would have still preferred a tighter fit. Thanks for watching!
I guess your saw is either not powerful enough or the blades need sharpening cause you have way too much tear out. I wouldn´t want to sell it that way.
Let me know what you think of this video in the comments below! And, if you enjoyed the video please subscribe to my channel, it really helps me out!
I’m subscribing
Great job.
A c-channel or L-channel would have provided better load carrying capacity on the work top overhang.
@@Takumi-San Thanks Capri! I definitely agree. Thanks for sharing!
@@ironwood1621 Awesome, thanks Rich! Welcome to my channel!
So many problems with this...as a cabinet maker it was hard to watch.
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
🤣
Now there's an island I WANT to be stranded on. Great work as always DK.
LOL thanks Mujin! Loved your Nicholson build!
David, this is genius.
Thank you Nicole!!
Just watched this video again. I love the puppy shot towards the end! Gorgeous doggie!
Haha thanks Gareth!!
You sir are not lazy! LOL. This video made me appreciate how these things can cost $2K or more pre-built. Especially ones with nice tops.
Thank you for the kind words Gerry! This one definitely was a lot of effort, but 100% worth it! I'm sitting at it right now as I write this comment :)
This video popped up even tho I'm not looking to build an island, but I saw the length and given the context assumed it would be very detailed and probably had a lot of other jewels I could benefit from as a beginner woodworker. You did not disappoint, appreciate all the tips and tricks. Great video and build.
Thanks so much for the kind words, I'm glad the video was useful for you! Welcome to my channel!
I think you did a great job on the island. It’s going to last and look great for decades. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks so much for watching and commenting Nick!
I'm interested in putting a butcher block top on my antique dresser and voila it's a kitchen island, I like the electrical outlets you did, I have an available wire so I'm gonna do that too!
That's awesome Tina! I hope your project turned out well!!
Very nice island. I’m glad you went with the second color. It just pops that countertop.
Thank you Terri! I agree, my wife and I love this color.
Good Job! For large holes I recommend you to use automotive paste/filler, it is very cheap and with the catalyst, it cures in 5 minutes. It does not affect the finish at all.
That's a great idea Gibran I haven't tried that. I'll give it a shot next time! Thanks for sharing
I don’t know why I’m so excited to see you in my same Brooks Ghost 13s
Lol! I keep buying the same pair over and over when they wear out. Love these!
Very intrigued by the electrical wires going down through the foot. I'd love to build a home office desk that could hide my ethernet cable.
Thanks Pinguinoer! Hiding ethernet is a great idea... good luck!
amazing work brother 👏 .. for fun you look like Vladimir zalansky😁
Holy cow you do!
Lol I get that a *lot* actually. Thanks for watching!
Nice build.Two points of caution though: The plethora of screws prevents the laminated countertop from expanding and contracting in an area located next to a lot of air flow. Even if the lamination prevents twisting it does not protect from seasonal changes in width.Better:Use elongated holes in the stabilizer which is fixed with 2-3 machine screws to metal inserts.Second point;the flat steel bar is not suited for the chosen application since it will only prevent widthwise movement (horizontal force) and not prevent bowing/sagging/twisting.Better use C or U shaped pannel take up vertical forces.
Two very good points. Thank you for sharing Baerenbruder!
@@dkbuildsThank you very much for your response to my comment. I hope my criticism was not too harsh but returns a little favor to you who puts so much time, efford and resources into this videos. Since I am well aware how convenient it is to sit on the sideline (as I do) when commenting on the work of other craftsmen. Your videos are great and I can only hope to become as good as you when it comes to woodworking. A fellow woodworker.
@@Baerenbruder87 Not at all. You are the only viewer who has identified this critical mistake. I plan to fix this properly and release a short followup video about it, and I will credit you for surfacing the issue. You rock!
Another issue may crop up with having the unfinished bottom of butcher block directly on top of the solid sub-top, not able to have air flow and being unfinished.
It looks great though👍
@@Baerenbruder87 I will agree with Baerenbruder87. I don’t understand all his comments, but the overall point is true. Don’t beat yourself up, DK, as when I was your age, I made these same mistakes, too. You locked that massive slab wood top up tight with that steel bar, the exact opposite of what you should’ve done. And you should have gone with your gut and not used the flat steel bar. There are many other options, but given that you like to use the big box stores, they also sell steel bar in different dimensions. You could have used 1 inch square (or larger) and routed that into the top easily enough. It would resist the downward bending force much better than flat stock.
Great work. Being a cabinet maker of 30 years. Invest in a set of rail and stile router bit set from Freud and you’ll never regret it. Your work for being a woodworker for such a short time is flawless. Your hand work and dovetail work is amazing
Thanks so much for the kind words Steve, they mean a lot coming from an expert like yourself. And yes you're definitely right -- the next time I make cabinets I'll be investing in some high quality router bits. Take care!
Great build and video, with lots of good ideas. Thanks for posting...thumbs up!
Thanks so much for watching and commenting TCM! Love your username by the way
This is dope. Nice to hear your voice and see you use some power tools, it almost makes your superhuman hand-tool work seem attainable one day. Props to your wife for being your mover buddy too... I'd definitely be calling a buddy for that while my wife supervised... she makes great snacks though.
Awesome, thanks Drew! So glad you liked it! More hand-tool videos coming soon :)
I love it. Different to your other projects and I think it fits nicely on the channel. Keep it up and keep being honest and wholesome.
Thanks so much Zac, I appreciate that!
That was amazing work! Gorgeous choice of Color too! Thanks
Thank you so much for the kind words poocky! Glad you liked it!
That looks fantastic! Welcome back, David 🙂
Thank you SJV! Glad to be back!
Excelente proyecto muy bien desarrollado y mejor ejecutado , una fantástica y peculiar isla para la cocina , con un montón de almacenamiento , un tutorial un poco largo para mí gusto , lo ideal sería 15 minutos máximo , pero reconozco que es difícil comprimir tanto ingenió y creatividad , gracias por compartir sus conocimientos y experiencias , un saludo cordial y por supuesto un gran like desde Narón (Galicia) 🤓 🔝
¡Muchas gracias! Estaba tratando de decidir entre tres videos más cortos o uno más largo. Agradezco tu opinión. ¡Saludos desde los Estados Unidos!
First off, can I just say. . . WOW! . . . The Island is absolutely GORGEOUS! Came across your channel by accident, and saw this one, since we are in the middle of moving to a new (OLD) home, that has nothing in the kitchen that would make my life easier! This is a great start to renovating my new kitchen! Thanks for all the detailed info! :)
Thanks so much Lisa, I'm glad you liked the video! Good luck on your kitchen reno!
@@dkbuilds Thank you ! I think we're going to need it! lol
Amazing work, amazing channel. Started following you a wee while ago, probably during the first quarantine, and i'm still excited to this day everytime there's a notif for a new video. Thank you for sharing your talent!
Thank you for sharing Lucie! I'm so glad you like the content. I appreciate you!
Clocking the outlet screws? Nice!
Thanks MM I'm glad you picked up on that detail!
Excellent video. I highly recommend you look into odies oil for natural wax finishes. It last much longer and is more water repellent than what you used. Very simple to use and you can sand it to higher grits for higher sheens. Just buffs on and off
Great tips, thanks so much. I'll check it out!
This looks incredible, what an awesome project!
Thank you so much Henry I'm glad you liked it!
Glad to have you back. Another good video. Thanks for making content.
Glad to see you back in the comment section Gary! Thanks for watching!
@@dkbuilds I watch all your videos from start to finish not just so you get the watch time but because I truly enjoy and look forward to them. I hope my videos eventually bring a similar amount of excitement to those watching too!
Great build and video. Regarding the "problem" with the sides. A dubbel side construction could keep the side board the original size, and also house the elektric were, also the drawer didn't have to be "adjusted". Just a thought for the design.
Thanks for the tip Rob, I like the idea of a double side construction. My only concern is that the drawers would have to be made smaller (but it's probably a safer construction with regards to the electric outlet). Cheers!
@@dkbuilds If you put the extra side on the outside the total length would increase with 2x the depth of the elektrical box. Would be about 4 or 5 cm each side.
@@dkbuilds in the first reaction I said, it would keep de sideboard the original size, I should have said the drawers, my translation error, sorry. (Dutch - English)
NICE SOUND PANELS!
Thanks Greg!
beautiful build
Thanks so much Brendan!
I recently DIY'd a butcher block countertop and read from a few places that it's supposed to be secured to the frame via adjustable brackets that accommodate expansion and contraction. This means the screw holes in the brackets are elongated and let the screws slide a bit to prevent bowing when the block absorbs and releases moisture.
Thanks for the comment Morgan! You are absolutely right. That is a mistake I made in this video for sure. I made a followup video about exactly this topic correcting myself, thanks to comments like these from viewers like you. Cheers!
@@dkbuilds You can also just drill a bigger through hole in the cabinet to let the bolt shift around a bit.
@@stonee1968 Thanks Ken. In my followup video about exactly this topic that's the correction I made. Cheers
Great work! This really shows how, both, creative and skillful you are! The only downside is that we had to wait 4 months for this video :)
Thanks so much Darko! Hopefully the next video won't take so long to come out!
First of all great work I love the look. I did however noticed that you did not but any finish on the underside of the countertop. it is important that you seal the entire surfaces of the wood to keep it from warping. the raw underside will absorb moisture from the air and expand where the top won't.
Thanks bob! Very good point. I appreciate it!
Yep this is probably more critical than making the elongated holes for mounting screws.
perfect
nice work
Thank you! Cheers!
Very nice build. Bravo!
Thank you Ben!
A grand project! Thumb up! 👍
Thank you Voron! Always a pleasure reading your comments!
Looks nice. You should remove the top and oil the underside as well to keep it from cupping weird in the summer.
Good point, thanks J!
@@dkbuilds got me thinking, I’ve made a few of these but never used mineral oil to finish. The underside will dry out so if you do this, I would use a hardening oil like boiled linseed oil. The top will most likely be replenished periodically.
Buen trabajo saludos desde Colombia, muy pulido y gran aprendizaje sobre los sistemas de ensamblaje que usas, Cheers.
Muchas gracias Dragon!
Great build, and great video!
Thanks Kevin!
This looks great!
Thank you Ellie!
Great job! Congrats!
Thanks Fabio!
Nicely done.
Thanks so much Dingo!
Bondo instead of wood filler for those larger fills. works on smaller too. ready to sand in 15 min.
That's a great idea, thanks J!
Lovely build! "I won't go into too much detail on how I did the electrical work..." 😁
😇 Thanks Gareth!
Solid work as always, sir. I also appreciate your willpower to use all 6 beers as glue weight, when 5 would have probably worked while 1 could have "developed a hole" while watching that glue dry. 🤣
Hahaha thanks Matt!
Great Job.
Best Regards from Hannover / Germany
Werner
Thank you so much WW! Regards from the USA!
13:06 good fix!
Thanks Veeps!
Love this build!
Thanks CK!
Beautiful work, David! It turned out better than I could imagine! 😃
About the flat iron bars, guys like Cam from Blacktail Studio normally use a C channel. But those are pretty thick table tops, so I believe your solution is perfect. 😊
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you MC! And very good point about the flat iron bars, in retrospect C is much firmer and less likely to bend under a vertical force.
Stay safe with your family as well!
Hope you have better luck with iron-on edge banding than I have had. I've never gotten it to stick permanently to ply edges. I gave up on it years ago. I now use 3/8" (at least) solid wood on exposed edges attached with a good wood glue. More work for sure, but the top edges of drawers, and front edges of shelves take a beating... It's a good-looking build.
Thanks Charlie! I've had luck so far with edge banding, perhaps I have a different brand than you. Fingers crossed this doesn't delaminate over time. Solid wood is definitely better, just more difficult to do. I'll be on the lookout for delamination thanks to your feedback! Cheers
Great video dude!
Thanks so much Halsti!
32:40 I don't know man, I would have used a stout. A little heavier to hold it down better. Came out great. I've seen c-channel used instead of flat bar for support. I'm guessing it would flex less due to its shape.
LOL good point Two Bit... wheat beer is way too light for this application.
And, agreed. C-channel is better here, and attached with elongated holes to allow for more wood movement. I may modify this countertop in the future if I'm seeing any issues start. Thanks for the comment!
So pleased I found your channel and subscribed. Awesome seeing you do things like standing on the table and using cans and beer for clamps 🤣 I too have a small workshop and have to get inventive with my few tools and space at times. Keepin' it real. Love this island and that colour (which might be pronounced huh-ho-bah? heehee) 🍁
Welcome to my channel Nancy, I'm glad you found it too! We can keep it real together 💪 Have a wonderful day!
I would be concerned with not having the bottom finished with oil or some kind of protector. The bottom while hidden can still absorb moisture at a faster rate than the top and may cause it to want to warp as time goes on. By applying oil to the underside as well both sides should absorb moisture at a similar rate and limiting warping. Also while not technically an issue consider buying things like drawer slides and mineral oil off of Amazon. You could have saved yourself a considerable amount of money. Just the butcher block oil alone you could have gotten an entire gallon for what you paid for those 3 bottles. The drawer slides as wel, I believe you could have gotten 10 pair for what you paid for the 6 that you used if not less if you got them from Home Depot as I assume that you did. Just my 2 cents for what it is worth.
Those are some great tips, thanks McCart! I agree I wish I had oiled the underside. I haven't seen any issues so far, thankfully. Have you found the amazon drawer slides are as high quality as store bought?
@@dkbuilds yes I have found them to be just as good. I think the price is lower because you are buying 10 pair at once and not individual slides. Plus they are saving money on packaging. Now do not get me wrong you will find crappy ones but a lot of them are good. $125-145 for a set of 10 and cheaper if they do not need to be soft close. Im guessing you paid about $20-24 per slide at Home Depot.
Oh wow, what a piece of furniture. Well done! If you‘d upload videos more frequently, I‘d consider splitting it in two parts. The only thing I don’t like, are the power sockets. Have you considered painting them? Or maybe get them in black? We have „Bachmann Twist“ which sit flush with the countertop and they are easy to use.
Thank you Srv! Yeah, I was torn between multiple parts vs. one long video... I made a poll and people chose one long video, but it appears maybe that was the wrong choice. Lesson learned!
I haven't considered painting the sockets. That Bachmann Twist looks interesting, thanks for sharing!
@@dkbuilds I can find time for 15‘ more easily than for 40‘ … and if you give us a cliffhanger, we will definitely watch you finishing your project. :-)
or.....OORRRR, give it a sec, buy 3 floor cabinets, put them together and then place a butcher block on top. Wouldnt be up to this quality obviously but dang, its a much simpler and cheaper (time invested + cost) LOVE the color though, great choice!
That’s one way to solve it!
Exelent. .welldone
Thank you Gerald!
using a router plane to cut dados in plywood is the most enjoyable thing ever
I know right?! Thanks for watching Cheetah!
the metal straps are not needed the top would be fine without. you should start at the bottom, hanging drawer fronts, makes life a lot easier. instead of taking 20 minutes to get the tenon thickness right use a piece with the groove cut in in already and get it set until you remove it evenly, your tenons are way too loose.
Thanks for the input Adam! I started the drawer fronts from the top because I was looking for a very specific sized reveal under the countertop... otherwise I agree. Great tip with the tenon thickness adjustment!
Hey man - just stumbled across this video in my feed. First time I've seen your channel, and the island is a solid piece of work, well done! Looking forward to seeing what else your channel has! #Subbed
Awesome! Thanks so much Donny, welcome to the channel. Hope you like the content!
Great work. I’d like to build this but my kitchen is on a slab so I can’t have electric.
Thanks Rich! And, that's a bummer! Thanks for watching
An awl to remove the glue from inside corners! Learn something new everyday
I use that awl more than pretty much any other tool :) Glad to show you something new David!
I have metal supports in my shop and I’ve never thought about using a magnet to hold my plans😐 I always fuss around with tape
Magnets for the win! 😆
Perfect job ... one thought ... paint the sockets.
Thanks! What do you mean by sockets?
@@dkbuilds sorry, I mean 110V outlets. They are too white.
Muy bueno 👌
Muchas gracias, Leo!
if don't mind i have a one suggestion you should be use felxible bit
I don't mind suggestions! Though, what do you mean "flexible bit"? I don't know what that is.
Nicely done. I'm curious tho why you didn't use your router table to build the doors.
Thanks so much Shayne! A router table is probably the best option but I don't have the right high quality bits so that's why I chose this method.
I'm glad to see you post a new post. I like your fine wood working posts more so, but a kitchen bench's call must be answered. Especially in a new abode. Did you bring that mitre saw / thicknesser stand with you or is it a new build?
Thanks so much Danny! I'm hoping to make more fine woodworking videos next... but, yes, this was a custom high-priority order from my most important customer, my wife 😇 I did indeed bring the flip top stand with me!
Nice work. Unfortunately I had an advertisement pop up every 3 minutes. It's a bit much if that's something you'd like to consider...I'm only one vote on this topic. Well done up through the 15 minute mark. Couldn't take any more advertisements. Best of luck in your YT journey.
Thanks for the feedback Tony, I appreciate it. I’m surprised more people don’t comment about that. Sorry it was too much!
Question for you. Drawer slides, is the 22” on the slide the length of the slide, the drawer or the drawer opening/depth? If it’s not obvious how do you determine the slide length? Thx
Hey ConcreteLand! These are the exact drawer slides I used: www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-22-in-Soft-Close-Full-Extension-Side-Mount-Ball-Bearing-Drawer-Slide-Set-1-Pair-2-Pieces-D94222E-ZP-W/302867630
22" is the slide length. Hope this helps!
Nice build sir, where did you source the plywood you used for this project ? is it the imported stuff from the big box stores ?
Thanks M! Yeah it's big box store plywood.
Tried to use an expensive plastic straw one time. Bad idea! 19:18
Oh no! Thanks for sharing Dean!
Hi there, great video! I have the problem where when I build heavy things, my girlfriend struggles to help me lift it. Can you please tell me what that harness is called that you both used?
Thanks Riverside! I bought these straps to help me move and they're actually super convenient. Here is the exact straps I bought (not an affiliate link): www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00022749Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think titebond 3 has the shortest open time :) but correct me if i'm wrong
Thanks for the comment Paul! TB3 has twice the open time as TB1 and 2, just checked to be sure 👍🏻
@dk builds you absolutely right, ha I was wrong for 2 years xD
凄い！
ありがとう！
@@dkbuilds Thanks for your reply. I actually speak English but i just wanted to let you know somebody are enjoying your video from abroad. looking forward to see your next ups.
Great design and build. What type of plywood did you use and can you see any of the grain through the paint. I tried spraying some cheap plywood before, 3 coats primer and four of colour and I could still see the grain pattern when finished.
Thanks Derek! I used pretty high quality sanded plywood, and I cannot see the grain. I believe it is possible to use wood filler on the plywood surface before painting (maybe diluting it slightly according to the directions on the package) to fill up the grain. Hope that helps!
@@dkbuilds thank you for the response, this should help as I was not sure what caused my problem, wood, paint or spraying technique. When I tried it I just used a scrap piece of wood and paint that was laying about the shed (car paint). The purpose of it was to improve my spraying technique using an hvlp sprayer. Going to be replacing my full kitchen soon. Thanks for posting your techniques in your build design. 👍
What was that little black chisel tool thingie you used to clean up the dado channel at 4:14?
Great question! That is called a router plane, in this case it is the Lie Nielsen small router plane
@@dkbuilds thank you! Ima get me one of those.
Nice build. Also, if this woodworking thing doesn't work out, you could always become a double for Volodymyr Zelensky.
Lol, thanks Joey!
What paint did you use and what color is it? You did an incredible job
Thanks! It's Benjamin Moore Jojoba www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-colors/color/af-460/jojoba
Can u please tell me what color the island is ? I’m in the process of doing this same project and want a color that I love … and that color u painted is it… thanks in advance
Hey Lori sure it’s “jojoba” by Benjamin Moore. Hope that helps!
Hey, also I wanted to ask about the over hang of the countertop for seating. How much do u recommend?
Thanks
@@lorihickman4998 This island has an overhang of 12" which I've found to be just right. Hope that helps!
🎉
😇
Looks great! Curious what kind of paint you used to finish it.
Thanks! The color is Benjamin Moore "Jojoba" and I used a high quality alkyd paint as shown at 22:55
I must have gotten impatient and skipped ahead, oops!
Hello,love your island, can you tell me the color used on your island, good job...
Thanks Damon! Check 26:01
Do you like the router insert for the Sawstop?
I'm considering doing that myself
I don't actually have the router insert for the SawStop! I built my own router cabinet, here's the video series: ua-cam.com/video/9TEL7V6KeCQ/v-deo.html
Since that video I've upgraded it to include a JessEm router lift which I love. The only change I plan to still make is adding some t-tracks into the top surface.
Great work mate, but the worktop installation is totally unacceptable for solid wood, this massive slab needs to be allowed to expand and contract freely
Thanks Andrey. Please watch the follow up video which I linked this one to. I discuss this exact issue and resolve it.
Good build for the most part. Your style and rail tennon way to loose.
Thanks Tim! And, I agree about the loose fit. However several months in with very heavy use the drawer fronts are still solid as a rock. Though, I would have still preferred a tighter fit. Thanks for watching!
WOW ! are for hire?????????
Haha thanks Mai!!
The steel you chose wont't do anything. You should have gone with c channel if you wanted to reinforce against bowing. Nice job on the island.
Thanks for the feedback Daniel!
What c was your total build time?
Thanks Greg! I built this over the course of three weekends, so I would ballpark 30 hours? I didn't keep close track though.
I guess your saw is either not powerful enough or the blades need sharpening cause you have way too much tear out. I wouldn´t want to sell it that way.
Thanks for the feedback bc!
what is that tool called used at 4:24?
That is a router plane. Specifically a small router plane made Lie Nielsen: www.lie-nielsen.com/products/small-router-plane
Do you know you could be a double for the Ukraine President.
That's not the first time I've heard that!
젤렌스키 우크라이나를 응원합니다.
Cheers!
Next time save yourself a ton of money and pick up mineral oil in the pharmacy of Target or Walmart. It's $2 vs $9
Good tip thanks XC