Wow god bless you , sir. Myself knowing nothing about engine repair, watching this you seem an automotive engineering genius with the calm patience of a saint
Dude just finished following your teachings all the check engine lights 4 are off. The cars runs much better . Thank you again for taking the time and making this video . It saved me tons of work and money ..blessings ...Keep up the awesome work👌
Just found your repair channel and started watching the videos. Very impressed with the professional instruction & quality of your work. Thank you for providing these videos.
Excellent job Brian!!! One note though, 18:58 that fuel line safety catch was installed backwards. Other than that, superb video and really helped me out with fixing my coolant leak by replacing my intake manifold gasket. Thank you!
I was skeptical about this but I failed my smog test 3 times and thought I would try it. Very well done video. this saved me big $$$ and my car passed, Thank you !
Thank you for this and your other videos on the secondary air pumps and bypass valves for the 4.7 L. They helped me a lot. I cursed the wire harness throughout many steps of the way, especially removing the manifold and the back bypass valves. I had to remove the back crossover pipe to remove the bolts on against the firewall, but I also had coolant leaks so I needed to change the gaskets of the pipe. I went the cheap route and tested the pump and first valve, fortunately they were working and saved myself $1200. Thank you again.
I was able to replace these two check valves on my Sequoia this weekend using a 3/8 extension and knuckle for the exhaust tubes and I used a Dremel tool to make a 10 mm stubby socket that is a must have. The magnet tool was a very helpful tip, pun intended. Put an old pillow over the radiator support, it will save your ribs. Pace yourself and take deep breaths if you get into a spot that is difficult. Great video to watch as you go. Unfortunately I’ve replaced the pump and the rear check valves but have to repeat the process to replace the diverter valve cause the light is still coming on. Code P2445
Great tutorial video and explanation provided did mine last night beside some time spent replacing the rear valve. Overall thank helped to get the job done.
Brian, I followed this video and replaced all components, I did have to replace the 3 wire connector to the Air diverter, and check engine VSC went out, but came back a day later, took of the neg battery cable and all dummy lights went out for a day, but came back, where should I start troubleshooting. I am subscribed and like your videos are a life saver.
Hi Jay. I’m about to do the same on my end. Out of curiosity, did you manage to resolve the issues, if yes, what did you have to do further? Thank you in advance.
@@michaelleroux338 No, I am still getting the check engine, VSC, lights, there are two valves that I need to check, I would check those first there is youtube video showing the location of the valves. Also, I have already purchased a new gas cap.
need your help, just did this repair following your steps, I double checked my work and i think it was done properly. I drove it about 60 miles after resetting the lights and got the p1444 and 14441 codes again and car went back into limp mode? What could have i done wrong? All vacum lines have been double and triple checked. Actually, I think I figured it out. In my case the VSV number 1 valve was also stuck. I disconnected the vaccum line connected to it and then reconnected it, now everything seems to be working well. I think this has fixed the problem.
I had P1442 on my 2007. My brother followed this video to replace the entire system based on this video. Parts are all OEM except for the pump. After a few days, I now get a P1441 code. Any thoughts on what I should do next? Thank you!
The cam position sensors have a clip between the fuel rail and connector. Stick flat screw driver in between from the top and twist to depress the connector before pulling the connector off.
Thank you very much for this video. I’ve got a coolant leak at the front and rear bypass. I’ve been trying to figure out how to get those check valves off. I’ve got 217k on the 06 gx, should I do the secondary air system while I’m in there? What about the starter?
Hello I have a 2007 sequioa. Will it work the same way. What code did you have. I have a P2440 code. . Also what is the part number for the thin wall socket that you used to remove the 2 check valve? Thanks
Awesome work! I had to change a rat chewed MAP sensor connector underneath the intake manifold. I guess now if I have to do this I will know how. Also the dang starter. Next project for me is the timing belt 👍😳
Great detailed guide on how to fix this issue. I’m currently experiencing a problem on my gx 470 not sure if it’s related to this problem since yesterday after starting up the vehicle a vacuum like noise emerged from the engine lasting about 15 sec. any advice do you think this might be the root of the problem?
Hi Brian, I watched the video and followed all steps but I stuck in whit the check valves.I can’t reach the back bolt on the check valve probably I’m using the wrong tool . How I can find that specific thin wall socket you use ( Snap on or something similar)Thank you.
That's a great job!! I've already got two failures codes in my 2006 Lexus Gx470. p0418 & p2445 it seems the same issue that you stated in this video. so please..could you kindly tell me the parts numbers that you used as a replacement of those old parts? I need the parts numbers in order to purchase them. appreciate your response & thanks in advance
Help! Just followed all the steps everything went well but when I turned on the car I still got a P1443 code bank 1/2 anything I may have missed pretty sure I was very thorough with the install?
hi thanks for sharing amazing video helps a lot but i do have question i had a code (p1441 secondary air injection system switching valve no.2 bank 1 and 2 stuck open) on my 07 lexus gx470 i took it to my local mechanic he said it needs pump and i tried to show him your video as you suggest to put valves and pump together but he decided to put pump only now after putting pump i am having same problem and an additional code with p1441 and p1442 i am not going that mechanic anymore and dont want to spend a lot please i need help i would really appreciate your suggestions thanks
Shery H sorry you were having car trouble's. What happens is when that pump fails particles of it get pushed through the whole system and cause other valves to stick open. The only real solution is to go back in and replace them. And if that other mechanic diagnosed it then he should go back in to repair it. I would recommend him pay for the labor you pay for the parts.
The top cover of the air pump has an intake pipe sticking out, around 1" diameter. Under the black plastic cover is a foam filter. The air enters through the intake pipe , goes through the filter, and then into the pump. The foam deteriorates over time and starts breaking apart and goes into the air pump. It can start plugging the plastic pump vanes and cause them to seize up or break. Some pieces of foam can then go downstream to the air injection control valves and cause them to become stuck open or closed (codes P1442/ P1445). The main culprit for this very expensive repair appears caused by that foam filter. This same air pump is used on many different brands of vehicles, and has caused failures repeatedly, including on the same vehicle. Dealers and the OEM can make a lot of money by saying the codes say the pump or valves need to be replaced. When the only problem is to clean out all the old foam filter material. Toyota finally came out with an extended warranty on these parts to 10 years or 150,000 miles. Lexus has not done the same, even though their 4.7 engine uses the exact same part. That also does not help those who do not qualify, such as the many Toyota and Lexus vehicles made before 2008. I have not found any replacement filter that has been substituted for the original filter. To just keep putting back in a replacement pump with the same filter means it will happen again. I am having to replace the check valves again after 20,000 miles. This is after replacing the pump and valves by the Lexus dealer at 114,000 miles. The foam filter looks like a $1.50 part in cost. I would suggest that any repair in this system include checking the condition of the foam filter. If it has deteriorated it will have worked its way into the pump and possibly the switching valves. I would want the entire system be checked for any loose foam pieces and be cleaned. If they just replace the air pump assembly and don't check downstream the valves may become stuck open or closed. On the GX-470 this pump is located under the intake manifold and there is little room. If the mechanic can find a better external filter that will fit on the intake pipe, and remove the foam filter from inside, it will probably keep the problem from happening again. The manufacturers and dealers should have fixed this easy problem years ago. I have found videos that show the filter, filter material inside the vanes on the pump, and filter material sticking out of the valves.
conquip that’s exactly what I’m seeing is that foam coming apart in the pump. I tried cleaning it one time and if you miss one little piece it may hang something up and you’re going back in there to do it again.
Hey Brian I'm having a strange issues and I'm not sure if its related to a secondary injection pump. When I'm driving the car and accelerating the car on the road I start to hear noise like an exhaust leak. It sounds like a car with a louder exhaust is driving right next to my car. I've been told that its a leaking exhaust manifold but I don't hear this when the car is park or when I'm revving the engine. Only when I'm driving. I have no check engine lights and this has been going on for over a month now.
Thanks very much for sharing this video! I do have a question. I am working on my 05 4Runner with the same engine. SO I have the SAI fan and diverter valve removed. Do I really need to replace the 2 check valves? Also, when I was moving side to side the cooling pipe that runs front to back, a little coolant leaked but I was able to stop it by pushing it towards the front and that stopped the leak. Question is do i need to bleed it after? Thanks very much in advance!
John Lee I would recommend replacing the valves. You can check them now that you have room and see if they're working and if they are you leave them. You are taking a chance. You will not have to bleed the cooling system. Just make sure it's topped off.
Hello, thank you for the helpful video I have a question I replaced all parts like on the video, but all the signs still on after a week. Never went away. Any suggestions
Okay so i have a 2007 gx470 and recently had bad cat codes so i replaced my exhaust manifolds and cats after some trouble and now im getting the p1442 code does anyone think the 2 are related
Great video. Thanks! Do you have a link for the 10mm socket and wrench you use to get to the back bolts on the valves? I believe you refer to it as a thin wall socket in the video.
@@HowtoAutomotive is this SAE or metric. I noticed that you were mentioning metric units throughout the install, just want to make sure I buy the right one. Thanks.
Yes no problem! Just install with wire loom around purple wire to make it look professional and factory installed. So they won’t notice the bypass kit.
what a Awesome video. thank you!!! l have a 2001 ls430. looks like the same engine l also have a ls460l 2007. l would be very grateful if you could do any repairs on those cars!!!!!
Vision Maloco before you take anything apart you can pull the fuse or relay out for the fuel pump and start the engine and let it run until it stalls out. That will bleed off any fuel pressure👍
I have been working on cars for 28 years. So am I learn from experience on the job and someone from the two-year automotive program that I went through
Hey so it seems to me you pretty much have to remove those check valves to be able to get to the bolts holding that damn starter in, right? I'm cursing the day my wife's '06 Sequoia was manufactured as we speak...😡
I just had mine replaced and asked for the old ones to be returned to me. Took off the cover held on by two philips screws. The code had said they were stuck in the closed position. Both had pieces of the foam filter from the pump unit stuck around the valve edges. I could actuate the valve by sucking on the pipe sticking out the side. The valve opens by vacuum being applied to the valve. The valve is kept in the closed position automatically by a spring. The loose foam filter pieces keep it from closing all the way, or in my case stuck closed, which triggers the DTC codes. It looks to me like a good cleaning of that area would have solved the problem. I had the foam filter removed and added an external filter on the intake pipe sticking out of the side of the top of the pump unit. It is important to make sure there is no foam filter pieces anywhere downstream of the original location of the foam filter. If the pump goes bad from foam filters pieces and the downstream segments are not cleaned, then the loose pieces can cause the valves to have issues.
Wow! In my book you are a Ninja 🥷! Amazing job… I’m considering buying on of those… this job is part of maintenance or those parts usually fail!?! Thanks for that amazing job and explanation!
Wow god bless you , sir. Myself knowing nothing about engine repair, watching this you seem an automotive engineering genius with the calm patience of a saint
Dude just finished following your teachings all the check engine lights 4 are off. The cars runs much better . Thank you again for taking the time and making this video . It saved me tons of work and money ..blessings ...Keep up the awesome work👌
webworldvision so glad the video helped! Thank you for watching and taking the time to write!!
Just found your repair channel and started watching the videos. Very impressed with the professional instruction & quality of your work. Thank you for providing these videos.
Ron Baynes thank very much! It's a lot of fun making these videos and I enjoy helping people out.
Excellent job Brian!!! One note though, 18:58 that fuel line safety catch was installed backwards. Other than that, superb video and really helped me out with fixing my coolant leak by replacing my intake manifold gasket. Thank you!
I was skeptical about this but I failed my smog test 3 times and thought I would try it. Very well done video. this saved me big $$$ and my car passed, Thank you !
That’s awesome glad the video help to save money and pass smog. Thank you for watching!
Thank you for this and your other videos on the secondary air pumps and bypass valves for the 4.7 L. They helped me a lot. I cursed the wire harness throughout many steps of the way, especially removing the manifold and the back bypass valves. I had to remove the back crossover pipe to remove the bolts on against the firewall, but I also had coolant leaks so I needed to change the gaskets of the pipe. I went the cheap route and tested the pump and first valve, fortunately they were working and saved myself $1200. Thank you again.
Thank you for this video saved my life. much appreciated had me stressing at first had to do this job Three times at first but got it right 👍
You do a really good job of walking us through this procedure.
John Chrisman glad to help. Thank you for watching and writing!!
I was able to replace these two check valves on my Sequoia this weekend using a 3/8 extension and knuckle for the exhaust tubes and I used a Dremel tool to make a 10 mm stubby socket that is a must have. The magnet tool was a very helpful tip, pun intended. Put an old pillow over the radiator support, it will save your ribs. Pace yourself and take deep breaths if you get into a spot that is difficult. Great video to watch as you go. Unfortunately I’ve replaced the pump and the rear check valves but have to repeat the process to replace the diverter valve cause the light is still coming on. Code P2445
Oh Yeah that’s so awesome how you get creative and made the job happen. Thank you for all the tips!
Great tutorial video and explanation provided did mine last night beside some time spent replacing the rear valve. Overall thank helped to get the job done.
Thank you. This video was very helpful as I replace my air injection pump and valves
Brian, I followed this video and replaced all components, I did have to replace the 3 wire connector to the Air diverter, and check engine VSC went out, but came back a day later, took of the neg battery cable and all dummy lights went out for a day, but came back, where should I start troubleshooting. I am subscribed and like your videos are a life saver.
Hi Jay. I’m about to do the same on my end. Out of curiosity, did you manage to resolve the issues, if yes, what did you have to do further? Thank you in advance.
@@michaelleroux338 No, I am still getting the check engine, VSC, lights, there are two valves that I need to check, I would check those first there is youtube video showing the location of the valves. Also, I have already purchased a new gas cap.
Outstanding video and great detail for the installation. I will be attempting this repair in the future.
need your help, just did this repair following your steps, I double checked my work and i think it was done properly. I drove it about 60 miles after resetting the lights and got the p1444 and 14441 codes again and car went back into limp mode? What could have i done wrong? All vacum lines have been double and triple checked.
Actually, I think I figured it out. In my case the VSV number 1 valve was also stuck. I disconnected the vaccum line connected to it and then reconnected it, now everything seems to be working well. I think this has fixed the problem.
Thanks for the follow up!
I had P1442 on my 2007. My brother followed this video to replace the entire system based on this video. Parts are all OEM except for the pump. After a few days, I now get a P1441 code. Any thoughts on what I should do next? Thank you!
Mr Eslick your videos are really slick thank you for the information
The cam position sensors have a clip between the fuel rail and connector. Stick flat screw driver in between from the top and twist to depress the connector before pulling the connector off.
Awesome video will save me a lot of dollars looking forward to the repair . excellent documentation and video
webworldvision glad the videos are helping. Saving money is what it's all about. Thank you for watching and writing to me!
Great video. When you remove the check valves do you have better access to the starter bolts? If so, I will order a starter too. Thanks!
Thank you very much for this video. I’ve got a coolant leak at the front and rear bypass. I’ve been trying to figure out how to get those check valves off. I’ve got 217k on the 06 gx, should I do the secondary air system while I’m in there? What about the starter?
Thank you for this video I really do apprecate the details on how to get this done. I'm a DIY guy and i was wondering waht the parts cost to do this?
Glad you like the video. there are links in the description for all the parts that I used with prices. Thank you for watching!
Hello I have a 2007 sequioa. Will it work the same way. What code did you have. I have a
P2440 code. . Also what is the part number for the thin wall socket that you used to remove the 2 check valve? Thanks
Awesome work! I had to change a rat chewed MAP sensor connector underneath the intake manifold. I guess now if I have to do this I will know how. Also the dang starter. Next project for me is the timing belt 👍😳
What code did you get to change it? I have a 2007 sequioa and P2440 code and what weee the symptoms to make you change it
Got a part number for the stubby 10mm socket?
Great detailed guide on how to fix this issue. I’m currently experiencing a problem on my gx 470 not sure if it’s related to this problem since yesterday after starting up the vehicle a vacuum like noise emerged from the engine lasting about 15 sec. any advice do you think this might be the root of the problem?
Jp Meza that is a common symptom of the air system going out. But it’s hard to say with out hearing it.
I’ve seen that thers a bypass kit option for this problem do you recommend that? Thanks in advance.
Very expert .
I like the way you work very neat and tidy 👌
Saif Al-busaidi thank you!
Hi Brian,
I watched the video and followed all steps but I stuck in whit the check valves.I can’t reach the back bolt on the check valve probably I’m using the wrong tool . How I can find that specific thin wall socket you use ( Snap on or something similar)Thank you.
That's a great job!!
I've already got two failures codes in my 2006 Lexus Gx470.
p0418 & p2445
it seems the same issue that you stated in this video.
so please..could you kindly tell me the parts numbers that you used as a replacement of those old parts?
I need the parts numbers in order to purchase them.
appreciate your response & thanks in advance
Very nice, thank you for posting. Do you have any video on this job for the 5.7L engine (preferably in a Tundra)?
I only have videos with the 4.7 sorry. But thank you for watching this video!
Great video. This is so much help, you have no idea.
Oh Yeah glad to help. Thank you for watching and writing!
Good video but have to say definitely made it seem ALOT more easy then it was!
Thank you for a great and detailed video!!!
Thank you for watching!
So how long did this job actually take you to do?
Help! Just followed all the steps everything went well but when I turned on the car I still got a P1443 code bank 1/2 anything I may have missed pretty sure I was very thorough with the install?
what are the symptoms of a bad secondary air injection pump and check valves?
So to make it easier if you remove the crossover pipe in front of the check valves, do the check valve attach to the pipe for easier installation?
Thanks for the tip 👍 and watching!
hi
thanks for sharing amazing video
helps a lot but i do have question i had a code (p1441 secondary air injection system switching valve no.2 bank 1 and 2 stuck open) on my 07 lexus gx470 i took it to my local mechanic he said it needs pump and i tried to show him your video as you suggest to put valves and pump together but he decided to put pump only
now after putting pump i am having same problem and an additional code with p1441 and p1442 i am not going that mechanic anymore and dont want to spend a lot please i need help i would really appreciate your suggestions thanks
Shery H sorry you were having car trouble's. What happens is when that pump fails particles of it get pushed through the whole system and cause other valves to stick open. The only real solution is to go back in and replace them. And if that other mechanic diagnosed it then he should go back in to repair it. I would recommend him pay for the labor you pay for the parts.
thanks and yes you are right i am going to talk to him again tomorrow let's see what he says i am thinking to buy him all the parts if he put them in
Shery H good luck hope it all works out well for you.
The top cover of the air pump has an intake pipe sticking out, around 1" diameter. Under the black plastic cover is a foam filter. The air enters through the intake pipe , goes through the filter, and then into the pump. The foam deteriorates over time and starts breaking apart and goes into the air pump. It can start plugging the plastic pump vanes and cause them to seize up or break. Some pieces of foam can then go downstream to the air injection control valves and cause them to become stuck open or closed (codes P1442/ P1445). The main culprit for this very expensive repair appears caused by that foam filter. This same air pump is used on many different brands of vehicles, and has caused failures repeatedly, including on the same vehicle. Dealers and the OEM can make a lot of money by saying the codes say the pump or valves need to be replaced. When the only problem is to clean out all the old foam filter material. Toyota finally came out with an extended warranty on these parts to 10 years or 150,000 miles. Lexus has not done the same, even though their 4.7 engine uses the exact same part. That also does not help those who do not qualify, such as the many Toyota and Lexus vehicles made before 2008. I have not found any replacement filter that has been substituted for the original filter. To just keep putting back in a replacement pump with the same filter means it will happen again. I am having to replace the check valves again after 20,000 miles. This is after replacing the pump and valves by the Lexus dealer at 114,000 miles. The foam filter looks like a $1.50 part in cost. I would suggest that any repair in this system include checking the condition of the foam filter. If it has deteriorated it will have worked its way into the pump and possibly the switching valves. I would want the entire system be checked for any loose foam pieces and be cleaned. If they just replace the air pump assembly and don't check downstream the valves may become stuck open or closed. On the GX-470 this pump is located under the intake manifold and there is little room. If the mechanic can find a better external filter that will fit on the intake pipe, and remove the foam filter from inside, it will probably keep the problem from happening again. The manufacturers and dealers should have fixed this easy problem years ago. I have found videos that show the filter, filter material inside the vanes on the pump, and filter material sticking out of the valves.
conquip that’s exactly what I’m seeing is that foam coming apart in the pump. I tried cleaning it one time and if you miss one little piece it may hang something up and you’re going back in there to do it again.
Hey Brian where you from so I can bring my GX470 in do it for me? I’ll pay for it. How much do you think repair shop will cost for the replacement?
Hey Brian I'm having a strange issues and I'm not sure if its related to a secondary injection pump. When I'm driving the car and accelerating the car on the road I start to hear noise like an exhaust leak. It sounds like a car with a louder exhaust is driving right next to my car. I've been told that its a leaking exhaust manifold but I don't hear this when the car is park or when I'm revving the engine. Only when I'm driving. I have no check engine lights and this has been going on for over a month now.
Do I need to replace the same parts you replaced on a p1445 code?
Thanks very much for sharing this video! I do have a question. I am working on my 05 4Runner with the same engine. SO I have the SAI fan and diverter valve removed. Do I really need to replace the 2 check valves? Also, when I was moving side to side the cooling pipe that runs front to back, a little coolant leaked but I was able to stop it by pushing it towards the front and that stopped the leak. Question is do i need to bleed it after? Thanks very much in advance!
John Lee I would recommend replacing the valves. You can check them now that you have room and see if they're working and if they are you leave them. You are taking a chance. You will not have to bleed the cooling system. Just make sure it's topped off.
Hello, thank you for the helpful video
I have a question
I replaced all parts like on the video, but all the signs still on after a week. Never went away.
Any suggestions
maged obadi did you clear the code with a scan tool?
I did clear codes with scanner they go away for a like 10 minutes but tha. They come back on as I’m driving
maged obadi what are the codes?
How to Automotive I don’t get any codes but lights on though
When I first start the car. No lights on than, when I put it in gear and start moving three lights come on . Vsc trac -vsc off- the slid sign
does this check valve relate to P1445 and P1442 code?
Okay so i have a 2007 gx470 and recently had bad cat codes so i replaced my exhaust manifolds and cats after some trouble and now im getting the p1442 code does anyone think the 2 are related
How much did the parts cost and what’s the labor cost for this job ?
It may be a good opportunity to replace the starter if needed.
Great video. Thanks! Do you have a link for the 10mm socket and wrench you use to get to the back bolts on the valves? I believe you refer to it as a thin wall socket in the video.
akennedy I got them from snap on there called quarter inch drive flank drive ratchet set. I don’t have a link. I believe gear wrench has a similar set
How to Automotive Thank you!
akennedy thank you for watching!
@@HowtoAutomotive is this SAE or metric. I noticed that you were mentioning metric units throughout the install, just want to make sure I buy the right one. Thanks.
If you have this problem just buy the bypass kit from Hewitt-Tech. Takes about 1 hour to install the kit. No more codes!
Michael Diaz
Will it pass inspection if you bypass this issue
Yes no problem! Just install with wire loom around purple wire to make it look professional and factory installed. So they won’t notice the bypass kit.
what a Awesome video. thank you!!! l have a 2001 ls430. looks like the same engine
l also have a ls460l 2007. l would be very grateful if you could do any repairs on those cars!!!!!
Andrew Villanueva thank you!! I I film everything so there's a good chance that I will be doing videos on these cars.
Any procedure I should do before disconnecting the fuel lines
Vision Maloco before you take anything apart you can pull the fuse or relay out for the fuel pump and start the engine and let it run until it stalls out. That will bleed off any fuel pressure👍
How to Automotive thank you so much for that information
Great video!....hairy arms...🤙🏽
This is why I bought a 2004 instead of 2005, the 2003-2004 did not have a secondary pump.
How did you learn all of this?
I have been working on cars for 28 years. So am I learn from experience on the job and someone from the two-year automotive program that I went through
Hey so you pretty much have to remove those check valves to be able to remove that ridiculous starter, right?
Any videos for adjusting valve clearances on this engine?
good video help ,too much.
Hey so it seems to me you pretty much have to remove those check valves to be able to get to the bolts holding that damn starter in, right? I'm cursing the day my wife's '06 Sequoia was manufactured as we speak...😡
What causes the switching valves to go bad? Ruptured diaphragms or seals? Ever taken one apart to diagnose?
Oh Yeah inside the pump is a filter that dries out and breaks apart and the particles go through the system making the valves stick open or closed.
Could I just clean them like I did the diverted valve?
Oh Yeah that may work. For me it's too much work to risk it.
I've had my intake off three times now trying to fix this issue so I'm getting good at it.
I just had mine replaced and asked for the old ones to be returned to me. Took off the cover held on by two philips screws. The code had said they were stuck in the closed position. Both had pieces of the foam filter from the pump unit stuck around the valve edges. I could actuate the valve by sucking on the pipe sticking out the side. The valve opens by vacuum being applied to the valve. The valve is kept in the closed position automatically by a spring. The loose foam filter pieces keep it from closing all the way, or in my case stuck closed, which triggers the DTC codes. It looks to me like a good cleaning of that area would have solved the problem. I had the foam filter removed and added an external filter on the intake pipe sticking out of the side of the top of the pump unit. It is important to make sure there is no foam filter pieces anywhere downstream of the original location of the foam filter. If the pump goes bad from foam filters pieces and the downstream segments are not cleaned, then the loose pieces can cause the valves to have issues.
what is your opinion on bypassing this system?
ничего не понятно
Wow! In my book you are a Ninja 🥷! Amazing job… I’m considering buying on of those… this job is part of maintenance or those parts usually fail!?! Thanks for that amazing job and explanation!