Global Triathlon Network You didn’t use a straight edge. When I ride tubular part of my flat kit is straight edge. You’re supposed to cut the tire and peel it off. That would have saved you 2 minutes easy.
Clincher for me. I take patches with me as well as an inner tube in my kit. If it is a dry race i go with patching the hole and removing the debris. Saves removing the wheel and risking a pinch of the inner tube and keeps my inner tube for if i need it, like pinch punctures. As a cyclist when i patched a tyre my club mates laughed at me but then they didnt point out a water filled pot hole and i pinched the tube so the inner tube was available. If i didnt have that the patches are a marvel for most occasions.
Over the years I've gradually switched from clinchers to tubulars. I can generally swap a tubular tire VERY Quickly as I leave about two inches of inglued tire directly across from the presta valve. This makes it incredibly easy to begin the removal - zipp - on with the new tire - a partial inflation - align it - full inflation - adios! With the clincher one thing the video MISSED (important) was to quickly pinch the clincher all around to ensure you haven't gotten a bit'a tube stuck between the tire and the rim - which can make VERY short work of a tube. So in my case I can swap a tubular in perhaps 50 percent of the time that it would take me to do a proper job on a clincher. No matter, time is NOT important in my riding - safety is!
Getting a properly glued tubular off is hell and putting on a spare (even one that has been stretched on a spare wheel) also requires major strength. A good tubular can run $40-$65 and really cannot be repaired unless you have a lot of time and patience. The clincher inner tube is $3-$5. Clinchers are the way to go.
@Fabian Ansteg But if I’m out on a 2-3 hour solo ride, and I get a flat with a tubular, must I have a spare on me or can a tubular be fixed on the side of the road as easily as a clincher? Don’t have any experience with tubulars so I’d like to know. Clincher tires with tubes are way more practical it seems.
Tubular is faster to change with practice but the replacement will not be well enough bonded to the wheel to go hard in corners so time will lost If you expect to have to change the tubular, some folks don’t glue a short section where you an push in a tyre lever
Lol, if anything some not glue a short section to help pull it off, how tubular is you don’t need tyre levers vs the other one, also wondering if he had tape as time to glue replacement on wasn’t there
The answer is Vittoria Pitstop. Works great with tubeless and cant see a reason why it would not with tubulars. Not that great with tubes in my experience, even if the manufacturer says different, but must admit that my sample on that use is limited to a single attempt.
Well since tubular and clincher both have tubes and some tubes have slime or sealant inside anyway (yes I know what some might think I am wrong but tubular has tube inside so undo the stitch, repair then sew back up)
Tubular tires would scare the life out of me and now, I run only tubular tire and I can replace a tub in just about 3 minutes with no risk of pinching a new tube. The only issue I have with tub’s is I’m riding with a large spare vs a small tube. That being said I’ve finished rides with the sealant saving my ride with a large glass shard in my tire where with a tube I don’t know how that would work. Also I’ve help riders on the side of the road where it would take for ever to put a tire back on a rim, again risking a pinch flat at the same time where with tub’s as long as it’s pre-stretched never an issue like that. The only thing that’s left is after the ride pulling the tire off and just gluing it on properly
Wait wait wait.... 0:08 - you mean there’s more than one of you!? Well that explains the result in Malta... a Mark-Mark-Mark team relay is quite a nice advantage!
madbikeboysins bravo, good work 💪 Like I said, we timed riding in, taking the wheel off through to the wheel back on the bike. I need more practice with a tubular to be fair
SO, race on sew-ups, train on clinchers. AND when checking the tire for whatever had gone through put the old tube over your finger before you run it round inside the tire. Trust me on this.
Hi Mark, nice vid, as someone has mentioned, what about tubeless, defiantly consider for longer tris, any idea why bike tyre companies are slow on progressing them ?
Oh, and with rim brakes it would probably be safer to inflate the clincher after putting the wheel back on. My 25 mm will just barely go between the brake pads when inflated.
Seriously, if you don't know how to use tubs what use is this "test". You are less likely to puncture on a tub and pre-stretched, pre-glued tub will mount super quick, you obviously need some grip strength to pull the flat tub off, but I have never struggled. Always used tubs for racing, always will.....
It took me and someone else roughly 1 hr to put on the tubulars on my wheels. But I have notoriously difficult to put on Continentals. After fiddling around with it, I went to the store next day and bought some pit-stop stuff. I am NOT changing it during a race, F that noise.
Just how quickly a wired-on tire can be fixed depends a great deal on the condition of the bead. A brand new tire, especially one that is tubeless ready, can require divine intervention to remove. Lesson here is never to ride a "green" tire if it can be avoided. Since I have spare wheels, I mount new tires at about 100 PSI on these wheels and the bead will stretch enough to make tube replacement on the road, MUCH easier. BTW, I never ride tubeless as this "solves" problems that don't exist. I haven't had a flat in years. I would also posit that the time of repair will also depend on whether the front or rear tire has the flat. In most cases, the rear tire is far more likely to puncture than is the front tire. Finally, I think the time for tubulars is past. Open tubulars make a lot more sense and require less cents. These tires come in a greater range of widths and need less pressure than tubes. This makes them more resistant to punctures, even without a protection belt. Their weight is also quite low. And there's this, when a tubular punctures, that's it. While it is possible to repair a tubular tire, it will never ride as smoothly as it did when new. It goes in the trash.
Mark Threlfall thanks Mark that's interesting. I race tubs but have always thought if I get a puncture in a short race it's game over anyway & in a longer race I could use the sealant to get me through. I wouldn't fancy carrying a spare tub let alone trying to change one on the side of the road in a hurry
Mark Vogler for Olympic distance and shorter I never took any spares or anything to repair. If you lost that pack in ITU racing it was game over. But 70.3 and above I always would
Why is this even a question, the tubular will not be fitted properly in 5 minutes and is a ridiculously expensive spare to carry compared to a tube. There is a good reason that cyclists do not use tubular tyres regularly anymore. Tubeless maybe, tubular, not unless someone is following me with a spare wheel
Here's the thing: it doesn't matter which is quicker to change as you are far, far more likely to puncture on clinchers. Train on clinchers, race on tubs. I've tried tubeless too, but the tyres are necessarily more heavy duty and thus slower.
Tubular is faster to change with practice but the replacement will not be well enough bonded to the wheel to go hard in corners so time will lost If you expect to have to change the tubular, some folks don’t glue a short section where you an push in a tyre lever
Clincher or tubular - which can you change quicker?
Just take the wheel of your opponent.
Never used tubular, but I've gone the tubeless route now :)
Global Triathlon Network You didn’t use a straight edge. When I ride tubular part of my flat kit is straight edge. You’re supposed to cut the tire and peel it off. That would have saved you 2 minutes easy.
Clincher!!
Clincher for me. I take patches with me as well as an inner tube in my kit. If it is a dry race i go with patching the hole and removing the debris. Saves removing the wheel and risking a pinch of the inner tube and keeps my inner tube for if i need it, like pinch punctures. As a cyclist when i patched a tyre my club mates laughed at me but then they didnt point out a water filled pot hole and i pinched the tube so the inner tube was available. If i didnt have that the patches are a marvel for most occasions.
Over the years I've gradually switched from clinchers to tubulars. I can generally swap a tubular tire VERY Quickly as I leave about two inches of inglued tire directly across from the presta valve. This makes it incredibly easy to begin the removal - zipp - on with the new tire - a partial inflation - align it - full inflation - adios!
With the clincher one thing the video MISSED (important) was to quickly pinch the clincher all around to ensure you haven't gotten a bit'a tube stuck between the tire and the rim - which can make VERY short work of a tube.
So in my case I can swap a tubular in perhaps 50 percent of the time that it would take me to do a proper job on a clincher. No matter, time is NOT important in my riding - safety is!
Getting a properly glued tubular off is hell and putting on a spare (even one that has been stretched on a spare wheel) also requires major strength. A good tubular can run $40-$65 and really cannot be repaired unless you have a lot of time and patience. The clincher inner tube is $3-$5. Clinchers are the way to go.
Barry Field I have some very sore thumbs to prove that too!!
you only have to do it the right way - then it's easy and quick (and without damaging your fingers)
Tubulars give you more street cred amongst curmudgeons though, so that's a pretty big benefit (LOL)
@Fabian Ansteg But if I’m out on a 2-3 hour solo ride, and I get a flat with a tubular, must I have a spare on me or can a tubular be fixed on the side of the road as easily as a clincher? Don’t have any experience with tubulars so I’d like to know. Clincher tires with tubes are way more practical it seems.
you would normally leave an inch of wheel with no glue, pull the tyre off from there or carry a razor blade and cut it off.
Tubular is faster to change with practice but the replacement will not be well enough bonded to the wheel to go hard in corners so time will lost
If you expect to have to change the tubular, some folks don’t glue a short section where you an push in a tyre lever
Lol, if anything some not glue a short section to help pull it off, how tubular is you don’t need tyre levers vs the other one, also wondering if he had tape as time to glue replacement on wasn’t there
is there going to be a strength and conditioning session video so you can get the thumb strength to remove a well glued tubular?
stug45 you should see the outtakes
😂
If your tires blows, the tubular will still be attached to your rim.
The answer is Vittoria Pitstop. Works great with tubeless and cant see a reason why it would not with tubulars. Not that great with tubes in my experience, even if the manufacturer says different, but must admit that my sample on that use is limited to a single attempt.
Well since tubular and clincher both have tubes and some tubes have slime or sealant inside anyway (yes I know what some might think I am wrong but tubular has tube inside so undo the stitch, repair then sew back up)
Vittoria Pitstop works great with tubulars.
Tubular tires would scare the life out of me and now, I run only tubular tire and I can replace a tub in just about 3 minutes with no risk of pinching a new tube. The only issue I have with tub’s is I’m riding with a large spare vs a small tube. That being said I’ve finished rides with the sealant saving my ride with a large glass shard in my tire where with a tube I don’t know how that would work.
Also I’ve help riders on the side of the road where it would take for ever to put a tire back on a rim, again risking a pinch flat at the same time where with tub’s as long as it’s pre-stretched never an issue like that.
The only thing that’s left is after the ride pulling the tire off and just gluing it on properly
Cheers Boris for your comment 👍
Wait wait wait.... 0:08 - you mean there’s more than one of you!? Well that explains the result in Malta... a Mark-Mark-Mark team relay is quite a nice advantage!
Haha, very true Matt!
In case of a flat on tubular I bring a tiny knife. When you cut it, the removal becomes quick and simple. Then the change only takes about 2 minutes.
What about the costs for each replacement including cost of fixing tubular properly after the quick fix? Assuming like for like tyre prices.
Is there a difference in feeling/riding between tubular, clincher and tubless, if all three were pumped up to 120 psi on smooth surface?
Dom I have both clincher and tubular, and both at 100psi, i feel like the tubular runs smoother
I heard some Clincher can pout Sealant inside and it works like Tubeless but the Sealant inside the tube instead
make sure tubular has been pre-stretched!
Riding to T2 on a flat tubular any day, no chance I'm pulling that bad boy off during a race!
I just tried it with a carbon rim and a Conti Sprinter tubular. I can't imagine what you spent 3 extra minutes doing?
madbikeboysins bravo, good work 💪 Like I said, we timed riding in, taking the wheel off through to the wheel back on the bike. I need more practice with a tubular to be fair
SO, race on sew-ups, train on clinchers. AND when checking the tire for whatever had gone through put the old tube over your finger before you run it round inside the tire. Trust me on this.
Great video
Cheers!
forgot all the removing of the glue and re-gluing and waiting for the glue to set which takes days clincher is the way to go no brainer
Hi Mark, nice vid, as someone has mentioned, what about tubeless, defiantly consider for longer tris, any idea why bike tyre companies are slow on progressing them ?
Steve H it’s in the pipeline, don’t worry
Clincher/tubeless/tubulars with sealant. I have only had 1 punture in 5 years that was not stopped by sealant (massive 4 inch side wall slash).
Good going Henry 👍
What sealant are you using? Thanks!
Oh, and with rim brakes it would probably be safer to inflate the clincher after putting the wheel back on. My 25 mm will just barely go between the brake pads when inflated.
Do you not have a quick release on your caliper?
Come on. Tubeless.
It’s in the pipeline 😉
Seriously, if you don't know how to use tubs what use is this "test". You are less likely to puncture on a tub and pre-stretched, pre-glued tub will mount super quick, you obviously need some grip strength to pull the flat tub off, but I have never struggled. Always used tubs for racing, always will.....
It took me and someone else roughly 1 hr to put on the tubulars on my wheels. But I have notoriously difficult to put on Continentals. After fiddling around with it, I went to the store next day and bought some pit-stop stuff. I am NOT changing it during a race, F that noise.
learn how to do it properly - I change tubulars in less than a minute
Just how quickly a wired-on tire can be fixed depends a great deal on the condition of the bead. A brand new tire, especially one that is tubeless ready, can require divine intervention to remove. Lesson here is never to ride a "green" tire if it can be avoided. Since I have spare wheels, I mount new tires at about 100 PSI on these wheels and the bead will stretch enough to make tube replacement on the road, MUCH easier. BTW, I never ride tubeless as this "solves" problems that don't exist. I haven't had a flat in years.
I would also posit that the time of repair will also depend on whether the front or rear tire has the flat. In most cases, the rear tire is far more likely to puncture than is the front tire.
Finally, I think the time for tubulars is past. Open tubulars make a lot more sense and require less cents. These tires come in a greater range of widths and need less pressure than tubes. This makes them more resistant to punctures, even without a protection belt. Their weight is also quite low. And there's this, when a tubular punctures, that's it. While it is possible to repair a tubular tire, it will never ride as smoothly as it did when new. It goes in the trash.
Who even mounts inner tube like that instead of put in tyre first then put on as easier
Why not tubless? Lotto soudal Ladies ride on tubless and there hasn't a flat in 5months
A tube is going to be a hell of a lot more convenient to carry during a race than a tubular tire. Come on now.
👍👍👍
If you were racing with a tubular setup wouldn't you just use a sealant to get you to T2 though?
Mark Vogler that has always been my option for shorter distances. But many do replace for the longer races, and actually quite a few pros!
Mark Threlfall thanks Mark that's interesting. I race tubs but have always thought if I get a puncture in a short race it's game over anyway & in a longer race I could use the sealant to get me through. I wouldn't fancy carrying a spare tub let alone trying to change one on the side of the road in a hurry
Mark Vogler for Olympic distance and shorter I never took any spares or anything to repair. If you lost that pack in ITU racing it was game over. But 70.3 and above I always would
Why is this even a question, the tubular will not be fitted properly in 5 minutes and is a ridiculously expensive spare to carry compared to a tube. There is a good reason that cyclists do not use tubular tyres regularly anymore. Tubeless maybe, tubular, not unless someone is following me with a spare wheel
not in 5 min??? I need less than 1 min...
Here's the thing: it doesn't matter which is quicker to change as you are far, far more likely to puncture on clinchers.
Train on clinchers, race on tubs.
I've tried tubeless too, but the tyres are necessarily more heavy duty and thus slower.
Also clincher tires are faster
Tubular is faster to change with practice but the replacement will not be well enough bonded to the wheel to go hard in corners so time will lost
If you expect to have to change the tubular, some folks don’t glue a short section where you an push in a tyre lever
J B yes, I have heard that. It’s a good idea for triathlon