Why anyone would use anything other than tubeless at this stage is beyond me. Now the technology has been perfected and has been shown to work reliably and better than tubes why wouldn't you use it. Its not hard to do now or to upkeep, there's even new valves coming out recently that make it even easier to both inflate and seat your tyres and to put in and even remove now the sealent so the "its messy" or "I can't get my tyre to seal right" excuses are gone. Go tubeless!
Some good straight up questions Mark. I run tubeless on all my bikes and do the maintenance myselve. Ben is over trivializing. Dried up sealent doesn't wipe right out, & a road side repair with a tube is a right mess. Seating a tire with a regular pump is not easy either, unless you have all the tolerances right. Make sure to practise a lot before to commit for an A race on it. This is not for everyone.
THANK YOU. No one in the press ever mentions what a b*itch putting a tube into a tubeless tire is on the roadside. Sealant making everything slippery. Tire is super hard to get back on the rim. Only works in theory.
I run tubeless on my Gravel bike, and on my TT bike for competition. I am not too happy with tubeless in terms of maintenance, and I have had many flats with tubeless, too.
I mostly agree with everything discussed here EXCEPT: I would like to bring light on some false info in this video. 1.) I got a puncture in my sidewall and tried stuffing a bacon strip in it. No go. Soon as I starting re-filling the tire up with air, it forced the strip out of the puncture. Tried 2 bacon strips, same deal. Ride over. 2.) If you ever completely remove a used tire that was filled with sealant and gummed up on the beads and try to re-seat it onto a tire as-is, good luck. Won't happen. Not even with an industrial 160psi compressor. You will have to spend a few hours cleaning off all of the gummed up sealant from the beads, and even after you do that, the tire may or may not ever seal back onto the wheel even with a compressor. This is from my personal experience. Fair warning!
Had a big cut in my rear tubeless tyre on my first half IM. Too big for a plug, so had to install a tube. What a MESS with all that icky, sticky goo inside.
Tubeless for mtb and gravel (running 43s) make total sense. Where I ride the conditions dont warrant the hassles of road tubeless. I run Conti gp 4000s and can change a tube in 3-5 minutes, average a flat every 2-3,000 miles. Nobody I ride with runs tubeless road and that includes ironmen and a guy who competed at Nationals in the time trial. It's a solution in search of a problem (for most riders).
Did tubeless, technology isn’t there for road yet. Can’t pop in a tube because you have to remove the valve stem/core, and you can’t use Co2 because it’ll freeze the sealant inside and render it useless. Also, setting them up is a nightmare, especially if they’re brand new. Lastly, if you don’t thoroughly clean all the old sealant out, especially on the bead, the tire will never set. Too many variables.
Yes tubeless provides less resistance than a butyl tubed tire & yes, more comfort plus less punctures but the downsides are a many also. *When you park bike for many days etc you need to make sure the valve is in position to drain out sealant otherwise gums up valve. *Usually installation of tubeless tires on tubeless rims is very difficult because of the design & tight tolerances, sometimes nearly impossible on roadside. *In general is a messy situation to add, keep toped up & when it self seals, is also very messy when tire is removed completely. *Is very hard, if not impossible to inflate tire from scratch often with a hand or foot pump. *Still need to carry a tube, repair equipment & air filling other than hand pump. *Over time the sealant dries up or gets absorbed into tire so you need to check the level after a few months. *If you leave bike for more than a month or so you need to spin wheels to keep sealant from gumming up into a mass. Anyway probably there are more cons but that does not mean you should not use them, they could be essential in some situations where performance & a puncture is paramount, just good to keep in mind both the positive & negative aspects for them. Maybe one day they will be able to supply tubeless tires that dont require the messy sealant, then they will seriously take off with sales.
As someone who's in to all types of cycling from motorcycles, electric powered cycles and leg powered ones, on the leg powered side Track, Off Road, Mountain bike, Cyclo-cross, Adventure, Gravel, etc and Road Cycling , Long Tours, Short Stage Races, One Day's, Crits and TimeTrials etc, etc, it's always amazed me how slowly new technology can sometimes be to jump from one style to another or to be accepted and used. Look at disk breaks and this, tubeless. Both have been accepted and used by MtB for ages especially disc's and I find it hard to understand what stops it from happening and why something that's obviously better is not being used. Even when the companies that make the bikes started to push their on the road it was slow to be taken up and still hasn't been by a big proportion or Roadies. Even the many who ride both can seem to have some sort of block that stops them from using the new thing on 1 of thier bikes when they've happily used it for ages on their other and know its benefits. Look at tubeless, I know a couple of riders who use it and swear by it on their MtB but still use tubes on their road, same with discs. They've used disc on their MtB for years and years and wouldn't even ride a none disc MtB now but don't want them on their road or didn't they've now mostly accepted they're use on all bikes but a couple still haven't swapped. Why won't riders and companies just take on any new tech that has obvious benefits and incorporate them in to all types and styles of bikes and riding. I know weight was a concern with early disc especially with that silly UCI weight limit rule but tubeless? Clutches on rear mechs, 1X drive trains, even dropper posts for some off road "gravel" adventure riders. In my opinion the new Electronic system by SRAM is an amazing step forward and it or something similar will end up on every type of bike in some form or another. Having 1 system that will control everything on your bike so you can program your shifters to control anything and everything on your bike or even that you put on your bike or yourself from gears to lights and helmets to gloves etc will happen and be the normal eventually once the price comes down etc. Especially as basically everything both on the bike and off it, helmets, your bike computer, maybe one day shoes, gloves, your indoor trainer, whatever will have something electronic on it you can control. Take the new helmet being designed that has the ability to change from aero to vented when required, the vents opening and closing as and when appropriate. As battery tech improves, getting lighter and longer lasting more things will go that way, gloves that heat up or cool you down, shoes that will do the same or appropriate for Triathlon especially that you can do up or undo with the flick of a switch on you bars. I just hope it doesn't happen on one side but not on the other for ages and for no apparent reason. The only reason I can even think of is that MtB riders and its culture is far more open to new things and the adoption of new tech where as Roadies are more traditional and unwilling to do anything that takes away from that nostalgic feel.
For what it's worth, triathletes stay away from disc brakes largely because of the aero penalty, and because triathlon courses tend not to require a whole lot of braking.
@@djlemma yhea I can understand that, gains are gains and when there's a real difference then cool. Triathlon is also a slight bit different in my eyes as there's 3 events, especially in the longer distances you're basically riding as an individual so better braking isn't quite as important as it'll only really benefit on wet downhills and you'll never be in a group so can totally choose your own lines and speed unlike cycle racers who have to ride and stay in a group so have to do group pace and often have their chosen line conflicted so I understand that. Also triathletes are usually more open to advancement than pure roadies anyway.
Nick Tarry I can’t speak for others, but for me it simply comes down to money. If I upgrade to disc breaks, my $1800 frame and $2000 wheels are worthless and would need to be replaced with another $1800 frame and $2000 wheels. Now I have spent $7600 to get slightly better breaking. I’ll stick with my rim breaks and save a ton of money. In terms of tubeless, I have tried them more than once. I don’t care for them. RR is not much better than light butyl or latex tubes, and most likely much worse than ultralight tubes coated with talc. I don’t get many flats to begin with so I didn’t see the benefit. New tech is not always better or it may work better in some uses and worse in others. Also you say roadies are more traditional. When have you seen an aero mountain bike? Or a mountain biker wearing form fitting Lycra. Mountain bikers have their vanity as well even though both form fitting Lycra and aero frame shapes would benefit performance.
I've ridden ridden 24 months with 1 flat (200k per week). Total tire maintenance time....10 minutes. Why would anyone want the PITA process of going tubeless. Less rolling resistance..?? Placebo effect at a minimum.....imperceptible to most humans...Change for change sake isn't always a good thing.
Where I ride there is usually a decent amount of debris and little pokey plant material. I was running inner tubes and within a span of a month, I replaced the inner tube around 5 or 6 times with one week needing three inner tubes. That’s nearly 40 dollars in one week and at that point I said screw it, I have tubeless ready rovals so I’m just gonna go tubeless and see how that goes. Same route, multiple rides per week, multiple small punctures, $0. Tubeless has been great for me and I still have inner tubes should I need to put one in but it’s been months now and there has been no need. I’m loving it.
Except the truth is that it’s almost impossible to inflate a tubeless tyre on a Zipp 808 NSW wheel. It has caused me a major headache twice. I simply could not seat the tyre (corsa speed 25C) on my 808 NSW and i tried everything including an air tank. Even with a compressor, 2 separate bike shops struggled. I had no such problems with Bontrager Aeolus Pro or Campag Zonda wheels. There is fundamentally something not quite right with the Zipp tubeless design. The wheel has been fairly good apart from that, but based on my experience (being unable to fit tyres) i would not recommend Zipp tubeless wheels.
Make sure the lock-ring around the value doesn't get glued on or you could end up on the roadside unable to take out the value when you need to fit a tube!
Can hardly remember the last time I had a puncture on my road bike, must be 6+ years ago. Not worth it for me and if want a smoother faster ride I'll try latex tubes. Had MTB tubeless and it does need maintenance and can get into a messy situation!
On the first question he said you can't make non tubeless wheels and tyres tubeless. He's taking about road bikes which require high pressures. However on mountain bikes you can convert normal rims to tubeless because the pressures are much lower. I've got several old 26ers set up this way and have been running them with no problems for a couple of years. Stans conversion kit or similar is what you need.
a lot of advantages with tubeless for sure, but the main reason holding everyone back is that most riders have approx 4 or 5 bikes, imaging topping up or changing the stans fluid on each wheel every 3 months. that is a lot of time!
if you have tubeless and you think you will need to add a tube, get a bloody extra tire with you and just change that. Also, make sure you get some fluid to add in. I use tubeless on my climbing bike and I never had any issues. Plus the lower pressure is nice because it's more comfy. But as many suggested, make sure you get the tire/wheel combination that fits. I went with mavic and they work like a charm....not sure about tire ready + rim ready combination from different vendors.
I've been running tubeless on my MTB for 2 years now. I've not had a single flat. Nothing. Not one. I was hesitant moving to tubeless at first for concern of being stuck out on some single track in the middle of nowhere with a major tire failure. I don't even think about it now. I carry a spare tube just in case, but I have never had to use it. I have a new road bike on the way that has a tubeless setup. Can't wait.
I had tubeless on my commuter bike, HATED them, went back to tubes. Planning on going tubeless on my mountain bike, and on the fence about tubeless for my race bike.
Tubeless is great for puncture resistance. The only downsides are yes it is a bit messy when you need to put a tube in it roadside and sealant can spray on your frame (requiring additional elbowgrease to clean) and on riders in your wheel. For me the benefits outweigh the downside. Especially in spring and autumn with all the dirt on the road it does it job when I see all the cuts on my tire. On my old training clincher wheels I do have more punctures
For larger holes the sealant does not fix carry a Stans Dart plug which has two dart plugs which will firstly seal the bigger hole then react with the sealant to form a permenant bond with the tyre. I had to fix a tyre in November 19 and the plug stayed in place until I scrapped the tyre in march 20.
saw a guide flat on IMLP and it was a total mess, but what makes me nervous is trying to inflate it with a CO2 cartridge when yo might need a blaster pump which there is no way you will have at a race.
Coffee ride tubeless discussion 😅 Real world is punctures with a lot of mess .... milk spilling on your clothes. And loads of CO2 bombs trying to set back your tire :-( I'm coming back to tubes. I can quickly and without mess change a tube ;-)
Total nonsense....pump it up with a track pump...nonsense....put a patch on it ...yeh right....put an inner tube in ...after you have sealant ( glue) sprayed all over your expensive bike....you have a puncture with tubeless 100 km from home you are in for a bad day.Tubeless worst idea ever.hit a pothole at 60 km/h with tubeless as with any tyre type the tyre can flat.I,m in a cycling club, people who flat with tubeless are worse of than with the clincher crowd.
Have been riding tubeless for over a year. Not a fan. They do pinch flat when the sidewall gets cut by the rim itself. Larger cuts will not seal. You will need to boot and put in a tube on the road. Pain in the butt. Super messing. Time consuming even if you have the correct tools. Tubeless is good for dealing with small nails, thorns, glass, and wires. I am back to using tubes with sealant added to the tubes.
Its an old video, but here goes. I have that bike in the rimbreak version. It has the 404nsw. Are they also tubeless ready ? In the video I see you demoing the rimbreak version.
You don't ever need a compressor these days. A decent track pump or one of the systems that have bottles you can fill with high pressure air before releasing in one go will always do it these days, especially if you get valves that you can remove the core from. There's new ones out that make it stupidly easy to do everything from pump the tyre up, get it seated, put in the sealent after and even take old sealent out. Especially if you get a Schrader type valve and use a Stans or similar valve type then it'll be easy.
One thing I don’t understand is why would friction between the inner tube and the tire increase rolling resistance. Not like it influences the bike’s interaction with the road. Can someone please explain?
Tubeless only works fine for mtb or cross tires up to around 4-5 bar pressure, anything higher than that won't be sealed up by the fluid...i don't know of anyone in my huge cycling club who could make it work for heavier riders on road tires with 7 bar pressure...sealant will spray out and plugs just pop out... you can ride home with low pressure but it's no real solution like it is for mtb...running tubeless on my mtb for nearly 10 years now and never had any issues
Pete Pansen IME, even heavy riders don’t need more than 5, 5.5 BAR, tops. Seems almost everyone who poo poos tubeless tires overinflates their tires, then wonders why it doesn’t work well.
You fill the sealent in the tire through the valve stem. Obviously you remove the valve core prior to that ;) But is there anything to watch out for before reinstalling the valve core? Like wiping of sealent on the inside of the valve stem (or rather the valve extension) for example?
Have tubeless for about 5 years. Never had an issue with sealing blocking de valve stem. I do clean the valve core the next time I remove it do get rid of any seal residu
I would recommend something like the KOM Tubeless sealant injector (komcycling.com/products/tubeless-sealant-injector-valve-core-removal-tool?variant=12164502093938) lets you inject the sealant right into the tyre without gets any of it on the threads of the valve core.
My only problem with tubeless is the sealant, most that are readily availably are latex. I know some people that are allergic to latex and I don’t want them to be affected by my tires.
I hate tubeless. After not riding my bike for less than a month tire lost pressure, I pumped it up, then boom loud pop all the remainin air escaped and I can't pump it up anymore. Tried to remove the tire, milk stuff escaped made a mess everywhere. Even more challenging to remove the tire remaining sealant tried to seal whatever opening it finds. I'm clincher for life now.
Seems like one of those things that will only really benefit competitive cyclists who need every edge they can get. For the rest of us, I think running with tubes is fine.
I do not recommend taking the tubeless valve out once the sealant made it airtight. Use a compressor for sure. If the tyre ain't worn out don't take it off from the rim because the sealant sticks on the tyre and is difficult to remove. On the rim there is zero sealant which is great. I will never go back to clinchers.
LOL ok I am fairly well educated- Someone please explain to me how "friction inside the tire" helps rolling resistance LOL (It helps it by changing the shape of the contact patch due to a change in air pressure run and the shape the tire contact patch takes when compressed by the riders weight e.g friction outside the tire) it has nothing to do with friction inside the tire between tube and tire. "Rolling resistance" has to do with the interaction between the tire and the road, so the interaction between a tube and the inside of the tire will have virtually no affect other than changing rotational mass, but it has been shown that sealant plus the slightly heaver tubeless ready tire actually come to a slightly heavier weight than tube setups on most equivalent level setups for road bikes (it can be less on a MTB). This person does not really understand "rolling resistance" for instance a bad wheel bearing will provide resistance but it is not "rolling resistance" it is rotational resistance again "rolling resistance" deals with the frictional resistance between the road and the tire, it is primarily decided by material interface [e.g. road surface and tire compound] and the size and shape of the contact patch. A large contact patch and sticky tire provide great traction but actually increase rolling resistance which is why anyone that has ever put wide sticky tires on a sports car has seen their MPG go down. The more uniformity of the pressure on the tire itself due to lack of a tube does help to dive a more uniform contact patch and this likely does dive a few watts of benefit in the area of rolling resistance (but it will be very small) it likely also has some to do with the tubeless craze meaning that some of the more advanced new tires are being released on tubeless tires.
i've had good success converting standard hook rims to tubeless with the proper rim tape and valve. i lose about 10 psi over the course of a week, but really you should be topping up your tire pressures every ride anyway. if you've got a wheel set on hand, i'd say it's worth a try.
Yeah I tried tubeless. But I stopped when I had a flat it wouldn't seal. But try putting a tube into a tubeless tire out on the road. It sucks. Old sealant on the rim making it slippery. Tubeless tires are generally a b*tch to get back on the rim too.
When Zipp is providing the tubeless equipment do you really think that this is an unbiased review? Of course they will say you can't use standard clinchers, they want you to buy another wheelset. Yet, I have set up countless standard clincher wheels with standard clincher tires and they have worked fine. Is tubeless ready better? maybe, probably. But to say you can not set up conventional rims and tires tubeless is a bold face lie.
It's not a lie you just don't know what you are doing. Running high pressure tyres as tubeless on a wheel/tyre combination that's not designed for it is taking a serious risk. Ask anybody. Maybe do some research before slagging people off about things you know nothing about. And which part of this said it was a "review"? It doesn't say anything of the sort and quite obviously is not. You completely made that up.
One more thing. Wider tyres are faster. REALLY. I have one bike with 25mm tyres and one with 28,mm tyres. The 25 mm tyres is seriously quicker than the 28 mm tyres,
just seen too many tubeless set ups needing help on the side of the road. Its all good in a supported event I'm sure but in the real world with broken glass etc on British roads a gel wrapper and a new tube will go a long way!
The bacon strips that he mentioned as "patches" are great for plugging up any holes on the side of the road. they come in different widths. If you get a slash/hole so big you can't plug it with one of these strips then I seriously doubt it's going to be safe to ride putting a tube in.
I use sealant inside inner tube. I got a puncture after a several months, there was no sealant coming out of the tube. I think sealant needs to be refilled every few months. The difficult part is getting the sealant inside the tube. I am waiting for a solid tire that will solve all puncture issues.
@@arbjful They already exist and they provide a crappy ride. What's the problem with putting sealant in a tube? You just inject it through the valve stem. Simples.
anytime you let the bike rest, rotate the valves to a 3 or 9 oclock position so sealant doesn't run into them. never inflate with the valve located near the bottom - rotate position so that sealant can't travel back up the valve when you release pressure. learned this all the hard way by gumming up valves and pumps. had to tear down the whole pump to clean the goop out, but since following these precautions i've not had an issue.
A solution to a problem that doesn't exist for road cycling. MTB, Cyclocross, yes, road, no. 1. Road flats occur once every 3 to 6 months, not a big deal to change a tube 2. You carry tubes anyway... 3. Sealant needs to be refreshed every 3 to 6 months.. see point 1 4. Sealant on brake rotors or brake track = no brakes 5. If you get a tubeless flat, insert a tube and leave it in there, next time you flat, your tube will have glued itself to the inside of your tyre, throw your tyre and tube in the bin and call os shame.
I agree with the below statement, “Marketing!” Ben Waite is straight up lying when he says you can’t successfully convert a non-tubeless ready rim to being tubeless ready ... honestly how stupid do you think we are Ben?!? How easy and effective is it? I haven’t cycled in 20 years, I just bought a new gravel bike and while watching videos about gravel bikes I heard how amazing running tubeless was so I chose to convert my rims. Admittedly I am a complete amateur yet I bought proper rim tape along good MilKit valves, and clincher tires ... in under 30 minutes (most of the time spent struggling to get the new clincher tire on the rim) I was running tubeless w/sealant and all using a regular tire pump (maybe an hour to do both rims). I did watched a ton of tubeless conversion videos including all the nightmare scenarios but luckily it all went to plan! Been riding for weeks now without issues, at pressures 30+ PSI lower than the tire’s upper PSI rating and the ride is great. Yes, I do loose about 5 to 10 PSI after a ride or if I leave it racked for a few days, but this is true of tubed tires as well. So much for Ben laughing off converting non-tubeless ready rims, I have had that last laugh! ;-D Apparently GTN is not GCN, who make amazing, informative and garbage free videos, so I think I will go back to watching their videos!
I think he had to say that for liability purposes. Everyone knows it's possible. It's not necessarily safe in the event of a blowout while riding. He can't really be encouraging people to set up non tubeless rims as tubeless and then have people getting hurt.
@@kwbarrettjr I'm pretty sure the rubbing against each other thing is wrong, but if you have two things moving about and flexing it's obviously going to provide more resistance than one thing.
hmm, got 3000 tubeless kms, dozens of puncture flats and spinning sealant, and one double flat and near traffic death (a bad oriented drain in a curb). ditched them and went tubulars, goodbie 7 watts.. since, 50,000 kms tubulars 3-6 controlled flats... the problem with tubeless is they now go on bicycles as fast as any inner city trafffic limits, but are not regulated ISO and ANSI like tires. So you have different rims and application methods, use of lever force and other manufacturing deficiencies that, at a certain psi or temperature, does let go on the weakest sidewall spot. The list of tubuless riders waking up in hospitals, broken 15,000$ bike nowhere to be seen, has gone up. of course this does not happen with car tires, not since the Firestone fiasco that killed. Another issue with tubeless is that they are psi and temperature sensitive. you can pump it at 70 psi but at 35-50c asphalt can go up beyond safety. of course this simply does not happen with tubulars, they may go up 10% but have where to expand, safely. Outside the rim cavity, not tubeless, the increase the sideload on the rim, hook and bead. for these safety concerns, they should be banned until regulated. as for puncture- how many times i checked a warn out Veloflex or Conti tubular, finding half a dozen-dozen tread to casing punctures, but NONE that breached then inner tube (or i would have had a flat). with tubeless that is a flat each time, stop ride or slow down even if sealed, and, esp on rears, must remove and patch at home. that would be 12 lost rides?? 5% of trips per tubeless lifecycle? yes depends where one lives, some pristine EU cities no doubt conti TL last forever no punctures..and yes, slow 10-30 km riders tubeless is less an issue, not enough speed psi or temp and mileage to worry
Over selling tubeless. You can cut the sidewalls via a rock compressing a tire sidwall against the rim. Also, putting in a tube is messy and a pain in the butt. Sealant gets everywhere. And when a tire is punctured, the sealant sprays all over your bike. You need to top off the sealant at least once a month. The sealant dries and forms dried areas inside a tire. I have gone back to tubes. Much better for training. You can put sealant inside your tubes. Has worked great for me. Will not seal a pinch flat however.
Nitrogen: nothing would happen. Oxygen: if your tire catches fire, it would burn much faster. Helium: your tire will lose the helium at a faster rate than just using air. You might notice it at the end of a 4+ hr ride.
AA CC is partially wrong because you would normally use van der Wals equation beside that it could change the rate of diffusion and the mass would be different
I switched on my Road Bike to Tubeless. I chose one of the most rugged tyres out there, the Conti GP5000TL in 25mm. After 80km I got a flat tyre, the sealant couldn't close this little cut. I tried it before with a Vittoria Corsa Speed, but this tyre has no puncture resistance at all, so it was not a big surprise I got a flat after 20km. The sealant could close the hole but this tyre didn't hold more than 6bar anymore. The takeaway is this system is not as good as people promise. I give it a 3rd shot now, if I have a flat again I'll opt for a good Clincher with turbolito tubes inside...
Tubeless only works fine for mtb or cross tires up to around 4-5 bar pressure, anything higher than that won't be sealed up by the fluid...i don't know of anyone in my huge cycling club who could make it work for heavier riders on road tires with 7 bar pressure...sealant will spray out and plugs just pop out... you can ride home with low pressure but it's no real solution like it is for mtb...running tubeless on my mtb for nearly 10 years now and never had any issues
@@cleggycyclist really? What was one of the most rugged tyres on the market? Excactly the GP4000. Conti claimes the GP5000 has got a better punkture resistance than the GP4000, you do the math. A Vittoria Corsa Speed or Specialized Turbo Cotton are true race tyre with almost no existing puncture resistance.
@@borrisjung8049 the only tyre to self destruct its sidewall for me was a 4000 and if you check online many others have had this with both 4000 and 5000. If they work for you great 👍 for me I doubt if I would ever trust them again
Sorry mate. 3rd video on the subject and only confirms our view that tubeless tires on ROAD bikes are a waste of effin time and money. All the work, mess, frustration and time wasted in comparison does not make up for the minimal, if any, performance improvement made on the bike. Call us back when the tech is improved. Greatly. Cheers.
Tubeless are the equivalent of the Emperor's new clothes on road bikes. They lack the suppleness of decent clinchers and become skittish in the wet conditions often found in the UK so cornering is not confidence inspiring. Most people will still carry a spare tube "to be safe". I rode them for a year and about 8000km in all conditions to try and give them a fair chance. The two times I needed them to work the sealant failed its job description. If you're not really sure put your money into decent clinchers and put talcum powder inside the tyre and on the tube to help reduce internal friction.
"become skittish in the wet conditions often found in the UK so cornering is not confidence inspiring." - That's just going to be down to the tyre you used. Not all tyres are created equal.
Screw that clincher suck to many pinch flats as fast I went on tubular I'm luckyI didn't run in pinch flatsdoing35mph..I'll stick with little of labor and ride quality and confidence knowing there won't be many pinch flats.
Wider tires are not faster. They are trying to sell us on this crap because they want tubeless to work on road bikes just as it does on mountain bikes. Lower pressures have a better chance of holding in the sealant in the case of a puncture. I have never gotten the sealant to work on any punctures on my road bike and have always ended in putting a tube in. So what is the point of dropping the use of inner tubes?
It amazes me that here we are a manufacturer mentioning a repair which is plug repair. This in transit UK is not prohibited by British standards and any road going vehicle which a road bike is, should not be done. It comes with great risk to you as the rider and other road users... stick with tubes!!!
Melvin Lee, no not all wheels require sealant. There are tubeless certified wheels and tubeless compatible wheels. I have had no problems running tubeless tyres on my Compag zonda wheels without sealant (though i do have to pump them up once a week). For my carbon wheels however (i have Bontrager Aeolus pro and Zipp NSW) you def. need sealant.
Sponsored post not clearly labeled as such plus the first thing the Zipp guy says is completely wrong. Yes, you can convert many non-tubeless rims to tubeless. Disappointed in you, GTN.
been on too many rides where someone has a problem with a tubeless and has to taxi home, but first 25 minutes are spent trying to fix it....bag of shite
What tyre set up do you use for training or racing? Let us know!
Tubeless.
Why anyone would use anything other than tubeless at this stage is beyond me. Now the technology has been perfected and has been shown to work reliably and better than tubes why wouldn't you use it. Its not hard to do now or to upkeep, there's even new valves coming out recently that make it even easier to both inflate and seat your tyres and to put in and even remove now the sealent so the "its messy" or "I can't get my tyre to seal right" excuses are gone. Go tubeless!
All clincher all the way. I've still have never gotten a flat, and I don't even buy expensive tires.
Some good straight up questions Mark. I run tubeless on all my bikes and do the maintenance myselve. Ben is over trivializing. Dried up sealent doesn't wipe right out, & a road side repair with a tube is a right mess. Seating a tire with a regular pump is not easy either, unless you have all the tolerances right. Make sure to practise a lot before to commit for an A race on it. This is not for everyone.
was only thinking the very same about putting a tube in after a punture from a tubless tyre, works in theory
THANK YOU. No one in the press ever mentions what a b*itch putting a tube into a tubeless tire is on the roadside. Sealant making everything slippery. Tire is super hard to get back on the rim. Only works in theory.
That bike😍 ...and then those sandals 😱
I run tubeless on my Gravel bike, and on my TT bike for competition. I am not too happy with tubeless in terms of maintenance, and I have had many flats with tubeless, too.
I mostly agree with everything discussed here EXCEPT: I would like to bring light on some false info in this video. 1.) I got a puncture in my sidewall and tried stuffing a bacon strip in it. No go. Soon as I starting re-filling the tire up with air, it forced the strip out of the puncture. Tried 2 bacon strips, same deal. Ride over. 2.) If you ever completely remove a used tire that was filled with sealant and gummed up on the beads and try to re-seat it onto a tire as-is, good luck. Won't happen. Not even with an industrial 160psi compressor. You will have to spend a few hours cleaning off all of the gummed up sealant from the beads, and even after you do that, the tire may or may not ever seal back onto the wheel even with a compressor. This is from my personal experience. Fair warning!
Had a big cut in my rear tubeless tyre on my first half IM. Too big for a plug, so had to install a tube. What a MESS with all that icky, sticky goo inside.
Tubeless for mtb and gravel (running 43s) make total sense. Where I ride the conditions dont warrant the hassles of road tubeless. I run Conti gp 4000s and can change a tube in 3-5 minutes, average a flat every 2-3,000 miles. Nobody I ride with runs tubeless road and that includes ironmen and a guy who competed at Nationals in the time trial. It's a solution in search of a problem (for most riders).
Did tubeless, technology isn’t there for road yet. Can’t pop in a tube because you have to remove the valve stem/core, and you can’t use Co2 because it’ll freeze the sealant inside and render it useless. Also, setting them up is a nightmare, especially if they’re brand new. Lastly, if you don’t thoroughly clean all the old sealant out, especially on the bead, the tire will never set. Too many variables.
Yes tubeless provides less resistance than a butyl tubed tire & yes, more comfort plus less punctures but the downsides are a many also.
*When you park bike for many days etc you need to make sure the valve is in position to drain out sealant otherwise gums up valve.
*Usually installation of tubeless tires on tubeless rims is very difficult because of the design & tight tolerances, sometimes nearly impossible on roadside.
*In general is a messy situation to add, keep toped up & when it self seals, is also very messy when tire is removed completely.
*Is very hard, if not impossible to inflate tire from scratch often with a hand or foot pump.
*Still need to carry a tube, repair equipment & air filling other than hand pump.
*Over time the sealant dries up or gets absorbed into tire so you need to check the level after a few months.
*If you leave bike for more than a month or so you need to spin wheels to keep sealant from gumming up into a mass.
Anyway probably there are more cons but that does not mean you should not use them, they could be essential in some situations where performance & a puncture is paramount, just good to keep in mind both the positive & negative aspects for them.
Maybe one day they will be able to supply tubeless tires that dont require the messy sealant, then they will seriously take off with sales.
Why can't they make a tubeless tire for bikes that doesn't require sealant? Cars have been tubeless for decades without all that nonsense!
Good video , I have had my share of problems with tubeless tires .
As someone who's in to all types of cycling from motorcycles, electric powered cycles and leg powered ones, on the leg powered side Track, Off Road, Mountain bike, Cyclo-cross, Adventure, Gravel, etc and Road Cycling , Long Tours, Short Stage Races, One Day's, Crits and TimeTrials etc, etc, it's always amazed me how slowly new technology can sometimes be to jump from one style to another or to be accepted and used.
Look at disk breaks and this, tubeless. Both have been accepted and used by MtB for ages especially disc's and I find it hard to understand what stops it from happening and why something that's obviously better is not being used. Even when the companies that make the bikes started to push their on the road it was slow to be taken up and still hasn't been by a big proportion or Roadies.
Even the many who ride both can seem to have some sort of block that stops them from using the new thing on 1 of thier bikes when they've happily used it for ages on their other and know its benefits. Look at tubeless, I know a couple of riders who use it and swear by it on their MtB but still use tubes on their road, same with discs. They've used disc on their MtB for years and years and wouldn't even ride a none disc MtB now but don't want them on their road or didn't they've now mostly accepted they're use on all bikes but a couple still haven't swapped.
Why won't riders and companies just take on any new tech that has obvious benefits and incorporate them in to all types and styles of bikes and riding. I know weight was a concern with early disc especially with that silly UCI weight limit rule but tubeless? Clutches on rear mechs, 1X drive trains, even dropper posts for some off road "gravel" adventure riders.
In my opinion the new Electronic system by SRAM is an amazing step forward and it or something similar will end up on every type of bike in some form or another. Having 1 system that will control everything on your bike so you can program your shifters to control anything and everything on your bike or even that you put on your bike or yourself from gears to lights and helmets to gloves etc will happen and be the normal eventually once the price comes down etc. Especially as basically everything both on the bike and off it, helmets, your bike computer, maybe one day shoes, gloves, your indoor trainer, whatever will have something electronic on it you can control. Take the new helmet being designed that has the ability to change from aero to vented when required, the vents opening and closing as and when appropriate. As battery tech improves, getting lighter and longer lasting more things will go that way, gloves that heat up or cool you down, shoes that will do the same or appropriate for Triathlon especially that you can do up or undo with the flick of a switch on you bars.
I just hope it doesn't happen on one side but not on the other for ages and for no apparent reason. The only reason I can even think of is that MtB riders and its culture is far more open to new things and the adoption of new tech where as Roadies are more traditional and unwilling to do anything that takes away from that nostalgic feel.
For what it's worth, triathletes stay away from disc brakes largely because of the aero penalty, and because triathlon courses tend not to require a whole lot of braking.
@@djlemma yhea I can understand that, gains are gains and when there's a real difference then cool. Triathlon is also a slight bit different in my eyes as there's 3 events, especially in the longer distances you're basically riding as an individual so better braking isn't quite as important as it'll only really benefit on wet downhills and you'll never be in a group so can totally choose your own lines and speed unlike cycle racers who have to ride and stay in a group so have to do group pace and often have their chosen line conflicted so I understand that. Also triathletes are usually more open to advancement than pure roadies anyway.
Nick Tarry I can’t speak for others, but for me it simply comes down to money. If I upgrade to disc breaks, my $1800 frame and $2000 wheels are worthless and would need to be replaced with another $1800 frame and $2000 wheels. Now I have spent $7600 to get slightly better breaking. I’ll stick with my rim breaks and save a ton of money.
In terms of tubeless, I have tried them more than once. I don’t care for them. RR is not much better than light butyl or latex tubes, and most likely much worse than ultralight tubes coated with talc. I don’t get many flats to begin with so I didn’t see the benefit.
New tech is not always better or it may work better in some uses and worse in others.
Also you say roadies are more traditional. When have you seen an aero mountain bike? Or a mountain biker wearing form fitting Lycra. Mountain bikers have their vanity as well even though both form fitting Lycra and aero frame shapes would benefit performance.
I've ridden ridden 24 months with 1 flat (200k per week). Total tire maintenance time....10 minutes. Why would anyone want the PITA process of going tubeless. Less rolling resistance..?? Placebo effect at a minimum.....imperceptible to most humans...Change for change sake isn't always a good thing.
Where I ride there is usually a decent amount of debris and little pokey plant material. I was running inner tubes and within a span of a month, I replaced the inner tube around 5 or 6 times with one week needing three inner tubes. That’s nearly 40 dollars in one week and at that point I said screw it, I have tubeless ready rovals so I’m just gonna go tubeless and see how that goes.
Same route, multiple rides per week, multiple small punctures, $0. Tubeless has been great for me and I still have inner tubes should I need to put one in but it’s been months now and there has been no need. I’m loving it.
Except the truth is that it’s almost impossible to inflate a tubeless tyre on a Zipp 808 NSW wheel. It has caused me a major headache twice. I simply could not seat the tyre (corsa speed 25C) on my 808 NSW and i tried everything including an air tank. Even with a compressor, 2 separate bike shops struggled. I had no such problems with Bontrager Aeolus Pro or Campag Zonda wheels. There is fundamentally something not quite right with the Zipp tubeless design. The wheel has been fairly good apart from that, but based on my experience (being unable to fit tyres) i would not recommend Zipp tubeless wheels.
Make sure the lock-ring around the value doesn't get glued on or you could end up on the roadside unable to take out the value when you need to fit a tube!
Can hardly remember the last time I had a puncture on my road bike, must be 6+ years ago. Not worth it for me and if want a smoother faster ride I'll try latex tubes. Had MTB tubeless and it does need maintenance and can get into a messy situation!
On the first question he said you can't make non tubeless wheels and tyres tubeless. He's taking about road bikes which require high pressures. However on mountain bikes you can convert normal rims to tubeless because the pressures are much lower. I've got several old 26ers set up this way and have been running them with no problems for a couple of years. Stans conversion kit or similar is what you need.
Spot on.I did it with gorilla tape and a cheap valve. Worked great.
a lot of advantages with tubeless for sure, but the main reason holding everyone back is that most riders have approx 4 or 5 bikes, imaging topping up or changing the stans fluid on each wheel every 3 months. that is a lot of time!
Exactly this, tubeless creates a maintenance burden that I struggle to accept.
Hmm..I'm in the switch-over process tomorrow...
Hope it will be a tranquil transition.
He forgot to mention, that you need a separate valve to put in before you „ready to go“...
Ah, so Zipp offer an unbiased opinion on their own product. Good one.
Which are the "opinions" in this video? And where is the part that is not "unbiased" (whatever that means in this context.
I use a Milkit system.
This makes it easy to check fluid without removing one side of the tire.
if you have tubeless and you think you will need to add a tube, get a bloody extra tire with you and just change that. Also, make sure you get some fluid to add in. I use tubeless on my climbing bike and I never had any issues. Plus the lower pressure is nice because it's more comfy. But as many suggested, make sure you get the tire/wheel combination that fits. I went with mavic and they work like a charm....not sure about tire ready + rim ready combination from different vendors.
I’m just starting to listen, but thanks for the video! This subject important for me, when I have to live with a purchase decision for a while.
I've been running tubeless on my MTB for 2 years now. I've not had a single flat. Nothing. Not one. I was hesitant moving to tubeless at first for concern of being stuck out on some single track in the middle of nowhere with a major tire failure. I don't even think about it now. I carry a spare tube just in case, but I have never had to use it. I have a new road bike on the way that has a tubeless setup. Can't wait.
I had tubeless on my commuter bike, HATED them, went back to tubes. Planning on going tubeless on my mountain bike, and on the fence about tubeless for my race bike.
Tubeless is great for puncture resistance. The only downsides are yes it is a bit messy when you need to put a tube in it roadside and sealant can spray on your frame (requiring additional elbowgrease to clean) and on riders in your wheel. For me the benefits outweigh the downside. Especially in spring and autumn with all the dirt on the road it does it job when I see all the cuts on my tire. On my old training clincher wheels I do have more punctures
This Newby has been waiting for a review of tubeless tires. Thanks!
Jennifer M you’re welcome
For larger holes the sealant does not fix carry a Stans Dart plug which has two dart plugs which will firstly seal the bigger hole then react with the sealant to form a permenant bond with the tyre. I had to fix a tyre in November 19 and the plug stayed in place until I scrapped the tyre in march 20.
Converted my Flo 60/90 to tubeless 18 months ago. Not a single flat. Worth noting you do have to also put in a stem. Think they skipped that part.
saw a guide flat on IMLP and it was a total mess, but what makes me nervous is trying to inflate it with a CO2 cartridge when yo might need a blaster pump which there is no way you will have at a race.
Put sealant in your tubes and you will avoid pinch flats and minor punctures and you won't have a mess if you need to replace the tube.
Hey what are you a trouble maker? Lol that's the first thing I thought of then remembered "sales" we need more sales! I put sealant in my tubes also.
Thank you for this. Your content is very educational. This video answered my question about putting a tube into a tubeless tire if you got a bad flat.
The tires are quite hard to remove for those wheelset any way to make it easier
Clinchers!!! Flat tire, remove wheel, take out tube, replace, pump up, put on wheel, ready to go!!!
In the freezing cold when all you want to do is get moving again......
They should go through an example. Try to take off that tyre when/if you flat and add a tube. Good luck!! No way that happens easily during a race.
Coffee ride tubeless discussion 😅 Real world is punctures with a lot of mess .... milk spilling on your clothes. And loads of CO2 bombs trying to set back your tire :-( I'm coming back to tubes. I can quickly and without mess change a tube ;-)
Total nonsense....pump it up with a track pump...nonsense....put a patch on it ...yeh right....put an inner tube in ...after you have sealant ( glue) sprayed all over your expensive bike....you have a puncture with tubeless 100 km from home you are in for a bad day.Tubeless worst idea ever.hit a pothole at 60 km/h with tubeless as with any tyre type the tyre can flat.I,m in a cycling club, people who flat with tubeless are worse of than with the clincher crowd.
at the end clinher saves the day
Have been riding tubeless for over a year. Not a fan. They do pinch flat when the sidewall gets cut by the rim itself. Larger cuts will not seal. You will need to boot and put in a tube on the road. Pain in the butt. Super messing. Time consuming even if you have the correct tools. Tubeless is good for dealing with small nails, thorns, glass, and wires. I am back to using tubes with sealant added to the tubes.
Its an old video, but here goes.
I have that bike in the rimbreak version. It has the 404nsw. Are they also tubeless ready ? In the video I see you demoing the rimbreak version.
You don't ever need a compressor these days. A decent track pump or one of the systems that have bottles you can fill with high pressure air before releasing in one go will always do it these days, especially if you get valves that you can remove the core from. There's new ones out that make it stupidly easy to do everything from pump the tyre up, get it seated, put in the sealent after and even take old sealent out. Especially if you get a Schrader type valve and use a Stans or similar valve type then it'll be easy.
One thing I don’t understand is why would friction between the inner tube and the tire increase rolling resistance. Not like it influences the bike’s interaction with the road. Can someone please explain?
Tubeless only works fine for mtb or cross tires up to around 4-5 bar pressure, anything higher than that won't be sealed up by the fluid...i don't know of anyone in my huge cycling club who could make it work for heavier riders on road tires with 7 bar pressure...sealant will spray out and plugs just pop out... you can ride home with low pressure but it's no real solution like it is for mtb...running tubeless on my mtb for nearly 10 years now and never had any issues
Pete Pansen IME, even heavy riders don’t need more than 5, 5.5 BAR, tops. Seems almost everyone who poo poos tubeless tires overinflates their tires, then wonders why it doesn’t work well.
You fill the sealent in the tire through the valve stem. Obviously you remove the valve core prior to that ;) But is there anything to watch out for before reinstalling the valve core? Like wiping of sealent on the inside of the valve stem (or rather the valve extension) for example?
Have tubeless for about 5 years. Never had an issue with sealing blocking de valve stem. I do clean the valve core the next time I remove it do get rid of any seal residu
I would recommend something like the KOM Tubeless sealant injector (komcycling.com/products/tubeless-sealant-injector-valve-core-removal-tool?variant=12164502093938) lets you inject the sealant right into the tyre without gets any of it on the threads of the valve core.
My only problem with tubeless is the sealant, most that are readily availably are latex. I know some people that are allergic to latex and I don’t want them to be affected by my tires.
Amer J. Interesting comment. Not something I had heard before
I hate tubeless. After not riding my bike for less than a month tire lost pressure, I pumped it up, then boom loud pop all the remainin air escaped and I can't pump it up anymore. Tried to remove the tire, milk stuff escaped made a mess everywhere. Even more challenging to remove the tire remaining sealant tried to seal whatever opening it finds. I'm clincher for life now.
Great until you get a real puncture and the gunk covers your bike 🙈 I've gone back to clinchers way easier 👍
Seems like one of those things that will only really benefit competitive cyclists who need every edge they can get. For the rest of us, I think running with tubes is fine.
I do not recommend taking the tubeless valve out once the sealant made it airtight.
Use a compressor for sure.
If the tyre ain't worn out don't take it off from the rim because the sealant sticks on the tyre and is difficult to remove. On the rim there is zero sealant which is great. I will never go back to clinchers.
0:54 the answer is "yes but it depends" and the expert said "no" - Where did you found this guy? Bike shop?
great video thank you so much
I heard a normal clincher rim can go tubeless. Now you're saying I need to buy a tubeless ready rim.
Why do a lot of people run a tubeless on the front and then still a tube on the back?
Too much time, hassle & money converting to tubeless - just to use a tube if you get a ad puncture. I will defo be sticking to my inner tubes.
LOL ok I am fairly well educated- Someone please explain to me how "friction inside the tire" helps rolling resistance LOL (It helps it by changing the shape of the contact patch due to a change in air pressure run and the shape the tire contact patch takes when compressed by the riders weight e.g friction outside the tire) it has nothing to do with friction inside the tire between tube and tire. "Rolling resistance" has to do with the interaction between the tire and the road, so the interaction between a tube and the inside of the tire will have virtually no affect other than changing rotational mass, but it has been shown that sealant plus the slightly heaver tubeless ready tire actually come to a slightly heavier weight than tube setups on most equivalent level setups for road bikes (it can be less on a MTB). This person does not really understand "rolling resistance" for instance a bad wheel bearing will provide resistance but it is not "rolling resistance" it is rotational resistance again "rolling resistance" deals with the frictional resistance between the road and the tire, it is primarily decided by material interface [e.g. road surface and tire compound] and the size and shape of the contact patch. A large contact patch and sticky tire provide great traction but actually increase rolling resistance which is why anyone that has ever put wide sticky tires on a sports car has seen their MPG go down. The more uniformity of the pressure on the tire itself due to lack of a tube does help to dive a more uniform contact patch and this likely does dive a few watts of benefit in the area of rolling resistance (but it will be very small) it likely also has some to do with the tubeless craze meaning that some of the more advanced new tires are being released on tubeless tires.
I’m glad to know so many commenters hate tubeless, I want to race against y’all. Vittoria corsa speed advantage me.
wait till i smoke you on my tubeless gatorskin.
i've had good success converting standard hook rims to tubeless with the proper rim tape and valve. i lose about 10 psi over the course of a week, but really you should be topping up your tire pressures every ride anyway. if you've got a wheel set on hand, i'd say it's worth a try.
Yeah I tried tubeless. But I stopped when I had a flat it wouldn't seal. But try putting a tube into a tubeless tire out on the road. It sucks. Old sealant on the rim making it slippery. Tubeless tires are generally a b*tch to get back on the rim too.
Practise makes perfect for the worst-case scenario. Set up a tutorial with an expert and after a few times, it becomes easier.
@Savage Poet Simulation
When Zipp is providing the tubeless equipment do you really think that this is an unbiased review? Of course they will say you can't use standard clinchers, they want you to buy another wheelset. Yet, I have set up countless standard clincher wheels with standard clincher tires and they have worked fine. Is tubeless ready better? maybe, probably. But to say you can not set up conventional rims and tires tubeless is a bold face lie.
It's not a lie you just don't know what you are doing. Running high pressure tyres as tubeless on a wheel/tyre combination that's not designed for it is taking a serious risk. Ask anybody. Maybe do some research before slagging people off about things you know nothing about. And which part of this said it was a "review"? It doesn't say anything of the sort and quite obviously is not. You completely made that up.
That has to be the biggest lavaliere microphone windscreen I have ever seen. It's as big as some stick mics!
One more thing. Wider tyres are faster. REALLY. I have one bike with 25mm tyres and one with 28,mm tyres. The 25 mm tyres is seriously quicker than the 28 mm tyres,
That's total nonsense tbh. I'd like to the scientific process you went through to reach such a conclusion.
just seen too many tubeless set ups needing help on the side of the road. Its all good in a supported event I'm sure but in the real world with broken glass etc on British roads a gel wrapper and a new tube will go a long way!
The bacon strips that he mentioned as "patches" are great for plugging up any holes on the side of the road. they come in different widths. If you get a slash/hole so big you can't plug it with one of these strips then I seriously doubt it's going to be safe to ride putting a tube in.
what about putting the sealant inside in the inner tube? will it help?
I use sealant inside inner tube. I got a puncture after a several months, there was no sealant coming out of the tube. I think sealant needs to be refilled every few months. The difficult part is getting the sealant inside the tube. I am waiting for a solid tire that will solve all puncture issues.
@@arbjful They already exist and they provide a crappy ride. What's the problem with putting sealant in a tube? You just inject it through the valve stem. Simples.
Speaking of expensive wheels, I would like to hear GTN speak about the nike ban in triathlon
Zach Martinez no ban
@@MattyJTri oh there is no ban on the next% or 4%?
We spoke about it in our show a couple of weeks ago. It’s not a ban, just an investigation
I have deep section wheels and need valve extenders - I always find the 'milk' gets clogged in the valve extenders. How can I overcome this problem?
anytime you let the bike rest, rotate the valves to a 3 or 9 oclock position so sealant doesn't run into them. never inflate with the valve located near the bottom - rotate position so that sealant can't travel back up the valve when you release pressure. learned this all the hard way by gumming up valves and pumps. had to tear down the whole pump to clean the goop out, but since following these precautions i've not had an issue.
prefer your Canyons still! 🚴♀️
A solution to a problem that doesn't exist for road cycling. MTB, Cyclocross, yes, road, no.
1. Road flats occur once every 3 to 6 months, not a big deal to change a tube
2. You carry tubes anyway...
3. Sealant needs to be refreshed every 3 to 6 months.. see point 1
4. Sealant on brake rotors or brake track = no brakes
5. If you get a tubeless flat, insert a tube and leave it in there, next time you flat, your tube will have glued itself to the inside of your tyre, throw your tyre and tube in the bin and call os shame.
I agree with the below statement, “Marketing!” Ben Waite is straight up lying when he says you can’t successfully convert a non-tubeless ready rim to being tubeless ready ... honestly how stupid do you think we are Ben?!?
How easy and effective is it? I haven’t cycled in 20 years, I just bought a new gravel bike and while watching videos about gravel bikes I heard how amazing running tubeless was so I chose to convert my rims. Admittedly I am a complete amateur yet I bought proper rim tape along good MilKit valves, and clincher tires ... in under 30 minutes (most of the time spent struggling to get the new clincher tire on the rim) I was running tubeless w/sealant and all using a regular tire pump (maybe an hour to do both rims). I did watched a ton of tubeless conversion videos including all the nightmare scenarios but luckily it all went to plan! Been riding for weeks now without issues, at pressures 30+ PSI lower than the tire’s upper PSI rating and the ride is great. Yes, I do loose about 5 to 10 PSI after a ride or if I leave it racked for a few days, but this is true of tubed tires as well. So much for Ben laughing off converting non-tubeless ready rims, I have had that last laugh! ;-D
Apparently GTN is not GCN, who make amazing, informative and garbage free videos, so I think I will go back to watching their videos!
I think he had to say that for liability purposes. Everyone knows it's possible. It's not necessarily safe in the event of a blowout while riding. He can't really be encouraging people to set up non tubeless rims as tubeless and then have people getting hurt.
@@kwbarrettjr I'm pretty sure the rubbing against each other thing is wrong, but if you have two things moving about and flexing it's obviously going to provide more resistance than one thing.
hmm, got 3000 tubeless kms, dozens of puncture flats and spinning sealant, and one double flat and near traffic death (a bad oriented drain in a curb). ditched them and went tubulars, goodbie 7 watts.. since, 50,000 kms tubulars 3-6 controlled flats... the problem with tubeless is they now go on bicycles as fast as any inner city trafffic limits, but are not regulated ISO and ANSI like tires. So you have different rims and application methods, use of lever force and other manufacturing deficiencies that, at a certain psi or temperature, does let go on the weakest sidewall spot. The list of tubuless riders waking up in hospitals, broken 15,000$ bike nowhere to be seen, has gone up. of course this does not happen with car tires, not since the Firestone fiasco that killed. Another issue with tubeless is that they are psi and temperature sensitive. you can pump it at 70 psi but at 35-50c asphalt can go up beyond safety. of course this simply does not happen with tubulars, they may go up 10% but have where to expand, safely. Outside the rim cavity, not tubeless, the increase the sideload on the rim, hook and bead. for these safety concerns, they should be banned until regulated. as for puncture- how many times i checked a warn out Veloflex or Conti tubular, finding half a dozen-dozen tread to casing punctures, but NONE that breached then inner tube (or i would have had a flat). with tubeless that is a flat each time, stop ride or slow down even if sealed, and, esp on rears, must remove and patch at home. that would be 12 lost rides?? 5% of trips per tubeless lifecycle? yes depends where one lives, some pristine EU cities no doubt conti TL last forever no punctures..and yes, slow 10-30 km riders tubeless is less an issue, not enough speed psi or temp and mileage to worry
Over selling tubeless. You can cut the sidewalls via a rock compressing a tire sidwall against the rim. Also, putting in a tube is messy and a pain in the butt. Sealant gets everywhere. And when a tire is punctured, the sealant sprays all over your bike. You need to top off the sealant at least once a month. The sealant dries and forms dried areas inside a tire. I have gone back to tubes. Much better for training. You can put sealant inside your tubes. Has worked great for me. Will not seal a pinch flat however.
That bike looks cozy comfy! hahahahahaha!
That Felt looks so awesome
what would happen if you pumped
A. Helium
B. Nitrogen
C. Oxygen
In your wheel, regardless tubeless or tubed?
nothing different since you still need the same proportion of gas to inflate at pressure. p=nrt/v
Nitrogen: nothing would happen. Oxygen: if your tire catches fire, it would burn much faster. Helium: your tire will lose the helium at a faster rate than just using air. You might notice it at the end of a 4+ hr ride.
AA CC is partially wrong because you would normally use van der Wals equation beside that it could change the rate of diffusion and the mass would be different
Marketing :(
you can seat a tube manually, I had to with my hunt wheels
I switched on my Road Bike to Tubeless. I chose one of the most rugged tyres out there, the Conti GP5000TL in 25mm. After 80km I got a flat tyre, the sealant couldn't close this little cut. I tried it before with a Vittoria Corsa Speed, but this tyre has no puncture resistance at all, so it was not a big surprise I got a flat after 20km. The sealant could close the hole but this tyre didn't hold more than 6bar anymore. The takeaway is this system is not as good as people promise. I give it a 3rd shot now, if I have a flat again I'll opt for a good Clincher with turbolito tubes inside...
Tubeless only works fine for mtb or cross tires up to around 4-5 bar pressure, anything higher than that won't be sealed up by the fluid...i don't know of anyone in my huge cycling club who could make it work for heavier riders on road tires with 7 bar pressure...sealant will spray out and plugs just pop out... you can ride home with low pressure but it's no real solution like it is for mtb...running tubeless on my mtb for nearly 10 years now and never had any issues
conti 5000 is a race tyre not as you describe a rugged tyre
@@cleggycyclist really? What was one of the most rugged tyres on the market? Excactly the GP4000. Conti claimes the GP5000 has got a better punkture resistance than the GP4000, you do the math. A Vittoria Corsa Speed or Specialized Turbo Cotton are true race tyre with almost no existing puncture resistance.
@@borrisjung8049 the only tyre to self destruct its sidewall for me was a 4000 and if you check online many others have had this with both 4000 and 5000. If they work for you great 👍 for me I doubt if I would ever trust them again
I have more then 12000 km on those tyres.
I still ride them without single isue
Please show more Felt bikes on the channel 😎
More to come! 🙌
You might be in luck with that ;)
Sick TT bike, basic AF sandals 🤣😂🤣😂
Sorry mate. 3rd video on the subject and only confirms our view that tubeless tires on ROAD bikes are a waste of effin time and money. All the work, mess, frustration and time wasted in comparison does not make up for the minimal, if any, performance improvement made on the bike. Call us back when the tech is improved. Greatly. Cheers.
7 1/2 minutes I’ll never get back. What a waste.
my bad - you can still get pinch flats.
Refreshing to see someone riding in shorts, t-shirt and sandals.
Tubeless are the equivalent of the Emperor's new clothes on road bikes.
They lack the suppleness of decent clinchers and become skittish in the wet conditions often found in the UK so cornering is not confidence inspiring.
Most people will still carry a spare tube "to be safe".
I rode them for a year and about 8000km in all conditions to try and give them a fair chance. The two times I needed them to work the sealant failed its job description.
If you're not really sure put your money into decent clinchers and put talcum powder inside the tyre and on the tube to help reduce internal friction.
"become skittish in the wet conditions often found in the UK so cornering is not confidence inspiring." - That's just going to be down to the tyre you used. Not all tyres are created equal.
is tubeless system more expensive yes.... I have to refill the system every 4 months.
How could he ride that easily without front wheel?!
Not cycling retail fetish, learn to ride by a fixie fixie riders seem.much happier and better riders quicker too
Screw that clincher suck to many pinch flats as fast I went on tubular I'm luckyI didn't run in pinch flatsdoing35mph..I'll stick with little of labor and ride quality and confidence knowing there won't be many pinch flats.
Fillable tubeless should not be called "tubeless" in the first place.
What.........?
if ur a serious competitor then you don't run tubeless but clinchers with liners and take a few second penalty for assuring no flats
I do not recommend riding in "sandals" 🙄
They seem way too much hassle for the marginal gains.
Strange how cycling channels are pushing tubeless tires, same goes for disc brakes and electronic shifting.
Are we allowed to choose what we want?
What are the triatlon schoes he is wearing in the bike?
Why even ride with tubes then?
If you get a puncture on the road, you need a tube to get back.
Wider tires are not faster. They are trying to sell us on this crap because they want tubeless to work on road bikes just as it does on mountain bikes. Lower pressures have a better chance of holding in the sealant in the case of a puncture. I have never gotten the sealant to work on any punctures on my road bike and have always ended in putting a tube in. So what is the point of dropping the use of inner tubes?
Er yes they are...............
It amazes me that here we are a manufacturer mentioning a repair which is plug repair. This in transit UK is not prohibited by British standards and any road going vehicle which a road bike is, should not be done. It comes with great risk to you as the rider and other road users... stick with tubes!!!
What are you even going on about....?
Hi, do all tubeless setups require sealants?
Yes
Melvin Lee, no not all wheels require sealant. There are tubeless certified wheels and tubeless compatible wheels. I have had no problems running tubeless tyres on my Compag zonda wheels without sealant (though i do have to pump them up once a week). For my carbon wheels however (i have Bontrager Aeolus pro and Zipp NSW) you def. need sealant.
Canyon was better than Felt mate
Mustafa Bircan they’re still here. You’ve got to admit though, it’s a pretty nice addition
Sponsored post not clearly labeled as such plus the first thing the Zipp guy says is completely wrong. Yes, you can convert many non-tubeless rims to tubeless. Disappointed in you, GTN.
been on too many rides where someone has a problem with a tubeless and has to taxi home, but first 25 minutes are spent trying to fix it....bag of shite
Paid?