Found your post on a minibike forum and I'm glad I did, I nuked the belt on my Trailmaster yesterday and could not for the life of me find a picture of what a Juggernaut SHOULD look like internally. I lost the belt and the motor almost instantly pegged 10k rpm, seriously over-revving the Jugg and throwing the weights out of position.
@@LilPopeye yeah but using angle iron instead of a traditional plate with an adjustable plate over is what I noticed. It's so simple by design it makes you wonder why some of the manufacturers go to such lengths to make it more complicated!
@@LilPopeye I saw some tractor pulling stuff in the background in an early video with Herbie (I think 🤔). Did you ever build one if those mower sized ones? A bunch of guys over here are building them. Started as race mowers, then mud mowers now pulling mowers. I'm pretty sure a drift mower hasn't been perfected yet! I grew up going to the fair and watching horse pulls, every now and then we'd watch the good'ol boys come out with some souped up farming implements but a few times I got to see those big, fire breathing, blown methanol guzzling ones and boy oh boy did it shake every bone in my body! I remember staring and not being able to move for the first time in my life. I was about 6 and in complete shock 😲!
I wouldn't call it insane, it's a nice design over the stock driver design. It does not go into overdrive and your engine needs to make more rpm's to reach the same speed as with a stock driver. If you're running a high rpm engine it is faster. My engine ran 6500rpm in the video. Stock cam, stock rockers and stock valves.
@@shanefroescher960 Depends on what you expect from it. In my case: I had bad vibrations in my stock torque converter driver. These are gone with the use of the new driver. Does it pull harder? I can't tell a big diffrence if there is a diffrence. It does make my engine able to run at higher rpm's. But it needs to make more rpm's to reach the same speed as with the stock driver.
Shane Froescher I just put one on my kids go kart! with the stock converter and governer removed it hit 29mph! With the juggernaut it hit 34! And it doesn’t engage as harshly as the stock one! Only time will tell if it hold up tho
Thanks for showing the internals! Looking forward to seeing how well these hold up. Despite careful cleaning and lubing, the Comet driver starts to stick on my only slightly modded 196 minibike.
I once had a stock driver stuck at wide open throttle position. It was caused because the bronze bushing grew in diameter, and the moveable sheave was stuck on it.
Thank you! The other minibike (my other video's) "General Lee" is basically the same. Currently I'm building another minibike, which will be the same build, but different colorscheme and name. Another video will be made of it, too.
@@LilPopeye I just built out a Gx160 for a Baja DB 30. I starting with running a clutch before I commit to another TAV 30. Nothing against the unit but I can't stand the covers! That and my ct200r build already has one so I want something a little more basic. I thought you'd have a bigger issue with wheelying, perhaps I should have gone that route.
What kind of RPMs will the Juggernaut spin to? Thinking about getting one of those Tillotson 225 race engines and getting a Juggernaut to go with it. I know the 225 is capable of over 7500 RPM.
@@LilPopeye Yeah I watched it a few minutes ago. That thing flies! I bet with a hot cam you'd get more RPM, but it doesn't look like you really need it lol
Thank you for the Reply!!! And again, Beautiful bike! I have a Coleman ct200u-ex... I'm building a stage 3 engine and waiting on the juggernaut cvt kit from GPS.
When I ordered it, it was $89,-. With shipping to Netherlands (where I am at) and all taxes and import duties it was around $200,- all together. Incl T-shirt...
I bought the juggernaut about ten months ago and it only lasted me two days my 212cc Atv.The inside got all twisted up and I’m still waiting for a new one.Does your juggernaut still work?
Yes, it still works with the original parts. The spider is a bit twisted and I do have the new spider at home already. Gopowersports send one to me (Netherlands) for free. I just have to replace it one day.
I’m thinking about installing a converter with a juggernaut on my daughters go kart then maybe on my sons mini bike. How is it holding up for you? By the way I like that wrench you’ve made. It reminds me of the ones I use in the steel mill I work at. Most of ours you have to use with a crane though LOL. greetings from the US.
Hi, If there's no need to run over 5000rpm; do not buy the Juggernaut. Within 1 year my Juggernaut driver was sticking, because of small internal damage. Bend metal tabs. And I just run it on a GX160. It still runs, though. On my other minibike I have the stock driver with aluminium weights installed with blue garter springs. It makes 5500rpm and is faster as the minibike with Juggernaut at 6600rpm.
Li'l Popeye Great information thanks a lot. Good to know a fancy looking part with a clever name doesn’t live up to the hype. I’m only planning on the kids running up to about 5500rpm anyway.
No, it is #219 chain. It has a smaller pitch. I've made custom 15T sprockets for the torque converter. The rear sprocket is available in sizes from 60-95. #219 chain is used a lot in karting.
@@LilPopeye no doubt. Thanks you so much. I saw this bike in a earlier video and thought I already subbed. I typically buy nice bikes and do stuff like this.... ua-cam.com/video/nFlNAnbcMbQ/v-deo.html it's a ct200r factory race build. I've since notched the rear fender for the chain. My DB30S is faded red and kind of a rat rod, mechanically she is a beast with a $400 race motor and that sweet, sweet NR Racing mountain plate because it allows for so much adjustment. Your bikes are beautiful man, thank you so much for building such cool rides. I'm all about the culture and helping others with their bikes. You've inspired me to do better my man, right on.
@@fatbuddycat thanks! I am from the Netherlands, and these American minibikes are very rare over here. So I make them myself. Last years build is here: oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/another-dutch-minibike-build-from-scratch.164878/ With detailed pictures. Currently I am building 2 new minibikes and this time I catch it all on video.
@@LilPopeye Dude! An Arctic Cat Prowler just sold for $400 or best offer on craigslist over here in New England. I didn't go for it because it was not the original engine and painted a hideous red color. I'm fairly certain they did the seat themselves too, yikes 😬. That little dirt bike look is cool with the torque converter man. Kinda of a resto-mod thing you got going, I dig it.
Ok, so who's the whack job commenting in first person after your untimely demise? Might be identify fraud, better have your ghost look into that one...🤔
It has a homemade muffler. But the insulation material is blown out, that's why it's so loud. I will put other insulation material in that will not blow out.
@@kenadams3951 My latest video does involve a quiet scooter. It's electric. For a minibike I do not mind if makes some noise, but at the moment it is a bit loud.
Run as loud as you want bro, dont listen to this guy, its your machine your fun, who cares what other people think you should do, what they need to do is focus on what they should do.
How you feel about top speed with the juggernaut? With a clutch I was hitting 62 mph, and now I got the juggernaut with a 7" driven 203591 comet kevlar pully and do like 40 tops. Help pOpeye!
@Knight Recon honestly ditch it and get a regular max torque, just put in a black spring for 3100 rpm engagement. they slap try to keep gear ratio 4.75-5.00 ish and it'll be perfect
Ja. Ik heb bestellingsproces gevolgd, adres ingevoerd en het werd opgestuurd. De juggernaut was $90,- en met transport, btw, invoerrechten en inklaringskosten was ik uiteindelijk ca €200,- kwijt.
@@ajanieproctor3848 I have bought a used one. And I only use the tachometer function of it. Because of the price, I will not buy another one. This used one was around $100,-... For future projects I have bought other tachometers with build in speedometer. Which were also a lot cheaper (around $20,-). If you want to buy the Mychron, try search: Aim Mychron laptimer.
Ok. I'm taking my DB30S off the market. It's got this on it..... ua-cam.com/video/NhFFKL1laAc/v-deo.html With a centrifugal and stock gear it is faster than ol herb here but oooooh baby I want it to take off like that!
@@LilPopeye Of course it is, mine is from 2003 when Hensim was building them for Baja Motorsports. I had a Coleman ct200u from early 2016 (last of the 3/4 output shaft models) at the same time. I'm glad I sold the Coleman instead. I built the Coleman's Hisun 196 out to a target of 15HP and 7000 RPM. Before I sold the ct200u I put a stock Predator on it and kept the motor since I wouldn't get my money back that I had into it. I had a 12HP gx160 on the DB30S that I have since swapped the 196 on to. It is ridiculously loud and fast with a 12T clutch and 65T stock rear on 35 chain. The bike weighs about 90- 100lbs with a full tank. Ol'Herb takes off a lot smoother and appears less violent under constant acceleration. The DB30S gets a bit squirrelly when the clutch fully engages but it is gone baby gone when it does. I was going to swap out to a bigger rear sprocket but then it just wants to wheelie because the 196 is so torquey. I was getting up around 50mph with the built gx160 but it was all mid to top end. I notice you run 30 series on all your builds and I think that is what I'm looking for. Problem I had with the Tav2 on the Coleman was that the 196 was maxing the drive pulley out and binding the belt so I could no longer accelerate. I didn't run the 160 with a torque converter yet but I'm starting to think I should because all your bikes are amazing and that's the combo you seem to stick with. My gx160 is a fresh clone block, crank and bearings. The rest of it is a Honda 168f cam, ARC 308 rod, T2 flat piston, Honda stainless valve train, 22# springs, Honda head, PVL flywheel with a 4 degree key 32° total, billet intake, 36 main jet, .020 idle, pk1b emulsion, full governor removal and a header. It's got less bottom end than the 196 does and I'm assuming that wouldn't bind the drive pulley as early therefore producing a higher speed before it caught up to the motor.
@@fatbuddycat About the wheely part: when I designed my minibikes I took this in consideration and when I sit on my minibike most of my weight is in front of the rear tire. I still have to be alert, otherwise it will wheely. The first minibike I build from scratch (sold by now, but still a video of it) did run a clutch and a 1:6 ratio. As most of the riding is short distances, a torque converter was the better choice for me. With a torque converter, the minibikes take off a lot easier. You're right about the driver going into overdrive. That happens here, too. Max engine rpm with a stock TAV is around 4500rpm. Herbie has got another driver installed (which does not go into overdrive), now it's making 6600rpm. Overall I'm happy with the torque converters, but the stock driver (design) is crap. It also creates a lot of vibrations. It is something I'm willing to modify or change in some sort of way, without having to buy the other driver gopowersports is selling. A lot of tuning can be done to the torque converters, that I haven't done yet. Still a lot to learn here, for me.
@@LilPopeye I like your style, I can tell your a smart man speaking from experience, I appreciate that. Have you tried the spacer hack where you cut a piece of steel tube off and slide it onto the pulley after the bronze piece? I forget where I saw it but it keeps the unit out of overdrive for longer acceleration. I think it has to be slightly thicker than the bronze "bushing" so that the driver can't completely pinch the belt against the pressure plate. Whoever I saw do it used a mild steel so that it would wear out over time rather than eat up the driver. My 196 (that one had the plastic cam gear, it got immediately replaced with a Dynocams CS grind Core cam) was hitting overdrive so early it was humiliating to have all that power, just awful. The other issue I had was the RPM was so high when it engaged it would stick and torque the output shaft bolt loose! I did everything but the crown nut method to keep it tight. Copious amounts of teflon and a 2 1/4 inch black zinc bolt with a lock washer worked for maybe an hour of actual run time. I'm thinking the Jugg might solve this issue but I too detest against buying a driver that costs as much as the whole Tav2 if at all possible. I got use to running my torque converter without a cover pretty quickly till I figured out it's easier to drill a hole in a piece of all thread, loctite it in the holes and stick pins through them to secure it. Also I like to see the mechanical aspect of the bike for preventive maintenance.
Yes. More brains need more protection. But as I am getting smarter, too. I might wear a helmet next time, too. Feel free to subscribe, to see if I wear a helmet next time.
Best video I have seen on installing a juggernaut driver! Great details in the video. Thank you!
Thank you.
Found your post on a minibike forum and I'm glad I did, I nuked the belt on my Trailmaster yesterday and could not for the life of me find a picture of what a Juggernaut SHOULD look like internally. I lost the belt and the motor almost instantly pegged 10k rpm, seriously over-revving the Jugg and throwing the weights out of position.
Wow, that's some serious damage. You got everything back together?
I'm looking more at the genius of how you made your engine mount! Your tool design is the bees knees my man, I dig it!
You've got a similar engine mounting plate, too. I've made mine and you got it from OMB warehouse.
@@LilPopeye yeah but using angle iron instead of a traditional plate with an adjustable plate over is what I noticed. It's so simple by design it makes you wonder why some of the manufacturers go to such lengths to make it more complicated!
That's because I went to agricultural school. I have never went to school for metal or technics. Self-thought and learned a lot throuh tractorpulling.
@@LilPopeye I saw some tractor pulling stuff in the background in an early video with Herbie (I think 🤔). Did you ever build one if those mower sized ones? A bunch of guys over here are building them. Started as race mowers, then mud mowers now pulling mowers. I'm pretty sure a drift mower hasn't been perfected yet! I grew up going to the fair and watching horse pulls, every now and then we'd watch the good'ol boys come out with some souped up farming implements but a few times I got to see those big, fire breathing, blown methanol guzzling ones and boy oh boy did it shake every bone in my body! I remember staring and not being able to move for the first time in my life. I was about 6 and in complete shock 😲!
Our website: www.teampopeye.nl/
Yes, a souped up one.
3x V-12 Allison, 1710cui, ww2, airplane engines. Running on methanol.
Nice Herbie build. Sounds strong. I just tried out my new Juggernaut today on my Stage 2 Tillotson 212 powered Coleman EX. It's insane.
I wouldn't call it insane, it's a nice design over the stock driver design.
It does not go into overdrive and your engine needs to make more rpm's to reach the same speed as with a stock driver. If you're running a high rpm engine it is faster. My engine ran 6500rpm in the video. Stock cam, stock rockers and stock valves.
Is it worth getting the juggernaut? I'm running a generac 8.8 with no governer
@@shanefroescher960 Depends on what you expect from it. In my case: I had bad vibrations in my stock torque converter driver. These are gone with the use of the new driver. Does it pull harder? I can't tell a big diffrence if there is a diffrence. It does make my engine able to run at higher rpm's. But it needs to make more rpm's to reach the same speed as with the stock driver.
Shane Froescher I just put one on my kids go kart! with the stock converter and governer removed it hit 29mph! With the juggernaut it hit 34! And it doesn’t engage as harshly as the stock one! Only time will tell if it hold up tho
@@07scoobywrx how's the super 30 holding up now??
Thanks for showing the internals! Looking forward to seeing how well these hold up. Despite careful cleaning and lubing, the Comet driver starts to stick on my only slightly modded 196 minibike.
I once had a stock driver stuck at wide open throttle position. It was caused because the bronze bushing grew in diameter, and the moveable sheave was stuck on it.
Just found your channel great viedo I'll be following
Thank you
Woah baby! She's a beauty my man.
Thank you! The other minibike (my other video's) "General Lee" is basically the same.
Currently I'm building another minibike, which will be the same build, but different colorscheme and name. Another video will be made of it, too.
@@LilPopeye I just built out a Gx160 for a Baja DB 30. I starting with running a clutch before I commit to another TAV 30. Nothing against the unit but I can't stand the covers! That and my ct200r build already has one so I want something a little more basic. I thought you'd have a bigger issue with wheelying, perhaps I should have gone that route.
That looked like highway speed, wow
That was about 70km/h
Cool Builds bud awesome channel
Thanks
Great vid brother!!
Thank you. You might also like my other video's.
Thats one quick minibike like damn
70km/h
@@LilPopeye jeeezus wanna race my rc car? Lmao
@@joeyhammer1998 What is Jeeezus gonna race with? ;-)
What kind of RPMs will the Juggernaut spin to? Thinking about getting one of those Tillotson 225 race engines and getting a Juggernaut to go with it. I know the 225 is capable of over 7500 RPM.
I think it's possible
@@LilPopeye Good to know. Looking to get 7000 RPM at least.
@@BunkerBlog My engine makes 6700rpm with it. That's a gx160 with stock cam and valves, governor removed and a mikuni carb.
In my other video: "taking minibike Herbie out for a ride" I run it wide open.
@@LilPopeye Yeah I watched it a few minutes ago. That thing flies! I bet with a hot cam you'd get more RPM, but it doesn't look like you really need it lol
Great video 👏👏.I from Argentina 🇦🇷 .Which carburator do you use and what size of jet ?How many RPM idling Your engine?sorry for my english.thanks
Idle rpm is around 1200-1500. Carb is Chinese Mikuni vm22. Jetsize around 110
@@LilPopeye and jet pilot? Thanks 👍
Not sure about the pilot jet. I guess it's 15 or 17,5
@@LilPopeye 👏👏👏👍
Beautiful bike!!!! what brand/model tachometer do you have on it?
Thanks! The tachometer is an AIM Mychron 3 laptimer. I just use it as a tachometer, while it can also measure temp.
Thank you for the Reply!!! And again, Beautiful bike! I have a Coleman ct200u-ex... I'm building a stage 3 engine and waiting on the juggernaut cvt kit from GPS.
I've seen the Juggernaut is no longer available for its introductory price of €89,-
No its $120US for just the driver or $180 for the kit
When I ordered it, it was $89,-. With shipping to Netherlands (where I am at) and all taxes and import duties it was around $200,- all together. Incl T-shirt...
Mooi gemaakt man!
Dankje. En het rijd nog comfortabel ook. Momenteel ben ik nieuwe aan het maken.
I bought the juggernaut about ten months ago and it only lasted me two days my 212cc Atv.The inside got all twisted up and I’m still waiting for a new one.Does your juggernaut still work?
Yes, it still works with the original parts. The spider is a bit twisted and I do have the new spider at home already. Gopowersports send one to me (Netherlands) for free.
I just have to replace it one day.
I’m thinking about installing a converter with a juggernaut on my daughters go kart then maybe on my sons mini bike. How is it holding up for you? By the way I like that wrench you’ve made. It reminds me of the ones I use in the steel mill I work at. Most of ours you have to use with a crane though LOL. greetings from the US.
Hi,
If there's no need to run over 5000rpm; do not buy the Juggernaut. Within 1 year my Juggernaut driver was sticking, because of small internal damage. Bend metal tabs. And I just run it on a GX160. It still runs, though. On my other minibike I have the stock driver with aluminium weights installed with blue garter springs. It makes 5500rpm and is faster as the minibike with Juggernaut at 6600rpm.
Li'l Popeye Great information thanks a lot. Good to know a fancy looking part with a clever name doesn’t live up to the hype. I’m only planning on the kids running up to about 5500rpm anyway.
I love the paint lol.but how much is the clutch
Check OMB warehouse (torkzilla) or gopowersports (juggernaut) for the price.
@@LilPopeye what's the difference between those two ?
Color
I thought I was already subbed, my bad. Is that 35 chain?
No, it is #219 chain. It has a smaller pitch. I've made custom 15T sprockets for the torque converter. The rear sprocket is available in sizes from 60-95.
#219 chain is used a lot in karting.
@@LilPopeye no doubt. Thanks you so much. I saw this bike in a earlier video and thought I already subbed. I typically buy nice bikes and do stuff like this.... ua-cam.com/video/nFlNAnbcMbQ/v-deo.html it's a ct200r factory race build. I've since notched the rear fender for the chain. My DB30S is faded red and kind of a rat rod, mechanically she is a beast with a $400 race motor and that sweet, sweet NR Racing mountain plate because it allows for so much adjustment. Your bikes are beautiful man, thank you so much for building such cool rides. I'm all about the culture and helping others with their bikes. You've inspired me to do better my man, right on.
@@fatbuddycat thanks! I am from the Netherlands, and these American minibikes are very rare over here. So I make them myself. Last years build is here:
oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads/another-dutch-minibike-build-from-scratch.164878/
With detailed pictures.
Currently I am building 2 new minibikes and this time I catch it all on video.
@@LilPopeye Dude! An Arctic Cat Prowler just sold for $400 or best offer on craigslist over here in New England. I didn't go for it because it was not the original engine and painted a hideous red color. I'm fairly certain they did the seat themselves too, yikes 😬. That little dirt bike look is cool with the torque converter man. Kinda of a resto-mod thing you got going, I dig it.
Are you able to use the stock keyway
Yes.
I TRIED TO WATCH TILL THE END BUT MUSIC WAS SO IRRITATING I KILLED MYSELF.
And you still managed to write a comment;-) thumbs up!
Ok, so who's the whack job commenting in first person after your untimely demise? Might be identify fraud, better have your ghost look into that one...🤔
you need a muffler
No noise run Quietly.
It has a homemade muffler. But the insulation material is blown out, that's why it's so loud. I will put other insulation material in that will not blow out.
@@LilPopeye I am 57 and we ran
Quietly (in the day) out of sight out of mind.
@@kenadams3951 My latest video does involve a quiet scooter. It's electric. For a minibike I do not mind if makes some noise, but at the moment it is a bit loud.
@@LilPopeye I'll have to see who you are now.? And your Video's
Run as loud as you want bro, dont listen to this guy, its your machine your fun, who cares what other people think you should do, what they need to do is focus on what they should do.
How you feel about top speed with the juggernaut? With a clutch I was hitting 62 mph, and now I got the juggernaut with a 7" driven 203591 comet kevlar pully and do like 40 tops. Help pOpeye!
If you want top speed, go with a clutch. I hit 70km/h. Top.
@@LilPopeye thank you - any clutch recommendations? disc or shoe?
Sorry, I have no experience with clutches.
@Knight Recon honestly ditch it and get a regular max torque, just put in a black spring for 3100 rpm engagement. they slap try to keep gear ratio 4.75-5.00 ish and it'll be perfect
@Knight Recon clutch is way better than the tav for street riding and top speed man good lcuk
What belt you got?
The one that came with it.
What are the torque specs on that bolt?
A quarter turn before it breaks
One and a half ugga dugga's
Verstuurt gopowersports naar Nederland ?
Ja. Ik heb bestellingsproces gevolgd, adres ingevoerd en het werd opgestuurd. De juggernaut was $90,- en met transport, btw, invoerrechten en inklaringskosten was ik uiteindelijk ca €200,- kwijt.
What tachometer is that
It's a Mychron 3 laptimer.
Li'l Popeye where can I purchase one
@@ajanieproctor3848 I have bought a used one. And I only use the tachometer function of it. Because of the price, I will not buy another one. This used one was around $100,-...
For future projects I have bought other tachometers with build in speedometer. Which were also a lot cheaper (around $20,-).
If you want to buy the Mychron, try search: Aim Mychron laptimer.
Ok. I'm taking my DB30S off the market. It's got this on it..... ua-cam.com/video/NhFFKL1laAc/v-deo.html With a centrifugal and stock gear it is faster than ol herb here but oooooh baby I want it to take off like that!
If you're referring to my Herbie minibike with "ol herb" I have to disappoint you. It's newer as any DB30 out there.
@@LilPopeye Of course it is, mine is from 2003 when Hensim was building them for Baja Motorsports. I had a Coleman ct200u from early 2016 (last of the 3/4 output shaft models) at the same time. I'm glad I sold the Coleman instead. I built the Coleman's Hisun 196 out to a target of 15HP and 7000 RPM. Before I sold the ct200u I put a stock Predator on it and kept the motor since I wouldn't get my money back that I had into it. I had a 12HP gx160 on the DB30S that I have since swapped the 196 on to. It is ridiculously loud and fast with a 12T clutch and 65T stock rear on 35 chain. The bike weighs about 90- 100lbs with a full tank. Ol'Herb takes off a lot smoother and appears less violent under constant acceleration. The DB30S gets a bit squirrelly when the clutch fully engages but it is gone baby gone when it does. I was going to swap out to a bigger rear sprocket but then it just wants to wheelie because the 196 is so torquey. I was getting up around 50mph with the built gx160 but it was all mid to top end. I notice you run 30 series on all your builds and I think that is what I'm looking for. Problem I had with the Tav2 on the Coleman was that the 196 was maxing the drive pulley out and binding the belt so I could no longer accelerate. I didn't run the 160 with a torque converter yet but I'm starting to think I should because all your bikes are amazing and that's the combo you seem to stick with. My gx160 is a fresh clone block, crank and bearings. The rest of it is a Honda 168f cam, ARC 308 rod, T2 flat piston, Honda stainless valve train, 22# springs, Honda head, PVL flywheel with a 4 degree key 32° total, billet intake, 36 main jet, .020 idle, pk1b emulsion, full governor removal and a header. It's got less bottom end than the 196 does and I'm assuming that wouldn't bind the drive pulley as early therefore producing a higher speed before it caught up to the motor.
@@fatbuddycat About the wheely part: when I designed my minibikes I took this in consideration and when I sit on my minibike most of my weight is in front of the rear tire. I still have to be alert, otherwise it will wheely.
The first minibike I build from scratch (sold by now, but still a video of it) did run a clutch and a 1:6 ratio. As most of the riding is short distances, a torque converter was the better choice for me. With a torque converter, the minibikes take off a lot easier.
You're right about the driver going into overdrive. That happens here, too. Max engine rpm with a stock TAV is around 4500rpm. Herbie has got another driver installed (which does not go into overdrive), now it's making 6600rpm.
Overall I'm happy with the torque converters, but the stock driver (design) is crap. It also creates a lot of vibrations. It is something I'm willing to modify or change in some sort of way, without having to buy the other driver gopowersports is selling. A lot of tuning can be done to the torque converters, that I haven't done yet. Still a lot to learn here, for me.
@@LilPopeye I like your style, I can tell your a smart man speaking from experience, I appreciate that. Have you tried the spacer hack where you cut a piece of steel tube off and slide it onto the pulley after the bronze piece? I forget where I saw it but it keeps the unit out of overdrive for longer acceleration. I think it has to be slightly thicker than the bronze "bushing" so that the driver can't completely pinch the belt against the pressure plate. Whoever I saw do it used a mild steel so that it would wear out over time rather than eat up the driver. My 196 (that one had the plastic cam gear, it got immediately replaced with a Dynocams CS grind Core cam) was hitting overdrive so early it was humiliating to have all that power, just awful. The other issue I had was the RPM was so high when it engaged it would stick and torque the output shaft bolt loose! I did everything but the crown nut method to keep it tight. Copious amounts of teflon and a 2 1/4 inch black zinc bolt with a lock washer worked for maybe an hour of actual run time. I'm thinking the Jugg might solve this issue but I too detest against buying a driver that costs as much as the whole Tav2 if at all possible. I got use to running my torque converter without a cover pretty quickly till I figured out it's easier to drill a hole in a piece of all thread, loctite it in the holes and stick pins through them to secure it. Also I like to see the mechanical aspect of the bike for preventive maintenance.
There isn't a spec, go watch their video silly LoL.
When I uploaded this video, they didn't have a video silly LOL.
No helmet..y r girls more smarter than boys?
Yes. More brains need more protection. But as I am getting smarter, too. I might wear a helmet next time, too.
Feel free to subscribe, to see if I wear a helmet next time.