I've been using dollar store foam rollers, at .75 each, I consider them disposable. 100 grit to remove all my overspray, 220 grit to clean it up for painting
Hi! Thank you for your detailed Video, the sign looks absolut amazing. My only question is about the finish Step with clear epoxy. How do you Coat the sides/edges and prevent the epoxy from dripping down? The surface on top is easy, but what about the sides!! Thank you so much
@@ralfplewa2472 I actually just flood it from the middle and let gravity do the work. I use a rubber glove to make sure I get everything squeezed into all the nooks and crannies and all the tough spots and let it flow over the edge. I also have a video that shows what I do to accommodate the drips after it is cured
After you did the clear it looks like you set a piece of foam core on top (at around 5:05 minutes in). Was that making contact for some reason, was it a dust barrier while the clear cured or does it serve some other purpose? Thanks for the awesome walk through!
This video is by far the best video from start to finish. I have a shapeoko 3 xxl with carbide create software and hopefully to upgrade to a better software soon. I just subscribed to your channel and looking forward to learning from you. You are too awesome. Do you create files and sell them?
I've never really gotten into the file selling game, I've had a few people contact me looking for help and they have sent me a little tip in appreciation but that's about as far as I've gone.
@Brad's Custom Signs ok I understand. I will be following you to learn as much as I can and I don't mind paying for some knowledge. I'm now following your Facebook page. Thanks for the awesome videos.
@Ricky Curry I'm using carbide create standard version. I may update to pro version or something different in order to start doing full 3d carving, I just haven't found the need for it quite yet
@Brad's Custom Signs ok thanks. I was told I needed the expensive software to do what I see you are doing. Thanks for clearing it up. I will work with what I got.
Thanks. Predominantly Rustoleum spray, 3 "light" coats 20 - 30 min apart (don't try to get full coverage in first couple), let dry, light sand and then 1 more coat if needed.
As far as the epoxy are you just pouring white initially then after it cures going back over it with the different colors? What type of squeeze bottle are you using?
yes, the first layer is basically a filler because I don't use deep pour epoxy, and I use a slightly translucent white to avoid getting too opaque and ensure that the lights will still show through the final pour. This was the last batch of bottles, but I typically look for sales of similar type www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08GP3P7RJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I currently use Magic Resin tabletop, Rust oleum spray paint, and Ecopoxy liquid pigments for most projects. And on this project, I also used the paint as the pigment for the orange
I got mine from the US (I'm in Canada), but I'm not sure about their shipping limitations. I would suggest joining a group or 2 on Facebook, and just ask other members that may be in your part of the world
Hello, Can you tell me what kind of pigment do you use and in what proportions? All of my suppliers are telling me that the covering pigment will not let light through...
I plot my design in the exact center of the blank, so that after I do the first carve and flip it over, the reversed image is still in the exact center
@@bradscustomsigns8585 I Think I understand what you are saying, but is there a trick to making sure the sign is positioned correctly when flipping it over? Is it OK if it isn't 100% lined up? Thanks and very cool video!
@@jimyongue6172 well the consistent positioning is the key. I have a preference for a dedicated X/Y location (mine is bottom left), so when I set my zero for X/Y, it is on the same place for every piece I do, never have to reset, the only zero I set is for my Z. So I set my artwork in the exact center of my blank slab, carve my piece, and then when I flip it over, the art is still in the exact center of the blank on the opposite side, so you need only to flip your design to match its location.
Really great looking sign. You lost me though it looked like you glued the back on, then sanded it and then took it back off. I’m assuming to put the lights in it, but why not put them in first, then glue and sand? I missed the taking it off the first time and then wondered how you got the lights in.
I put the back cover on the riser ring to keep the shape and rigidity while it is being glued. And I install the lights last in the event I have any slips and have to make some modifications.
@@bradscustomsigns8585 Oh, ok. So a back cover, a riser ring and the front piece. Think I got it now. I do like the spend up videos, but I do miss some things. Thanks for the reply. And again, great looking sign.
how deep do you usually make your pockets before you put resin i usually do .20 but i found i was using too much resin but i dont know if thats acceptable so recently i began a project with .10 i use less but it pours out however i will surface the project .02
Clean work 👏🏽
Very cool. Thanks for showing your process. Love your sign!!!!
Thanks
wow! That was great work! 👍
Mega praca i super efekt ,Wow :)
Awesome job!
Super boulot un final magnifique
Amazing work Brother.. Love that sign 😎👍🇺🇸
Thank you
That’s bad a$$ right there!!!🤩 Thanks for illustrating & explaining your process!!
thanks
Awesome work
Excellent work.
Very cool great job
So cool! I just stopped by your garage sale today
Thanks
This right here is BAD-ASS! Well done!
thank you
Nice work Cuz 👍
wow.. outstanding
Watched 4 of your videos back to back and amazed by each. Thank you for posting these.
Thanks, I appreciate that
I'd buy one of those for sure.
This is beautiful BOSS !
thank you
Great video 🙌🏻
thanks
Oh my god that’s friggin amazing!!!!
thanks
Would love to have one of these for under the gable end of my garage
Excelente trabalho
Excellent.
Awesome 🙌❤️
thank you
Nice!
Woww, Superbe création
Thanks
Awesome
very nice
Oh hell yeah!
perfect😍
🔥🔥🔥🔥
Wow, just wow!
thank you
Love this one! Great work! Do you sell your signs?
That's just fucking incredible!!
Thank you
WOW
So rustolium for spray, what do you use for rolling? What grit sand paper do you use when removing before rolling?
Amazing work by the way
I've been using dollar store foam rollers, at .75 each, I consider them disposable. 100 grit to remove all my overspray, 220 grit to clean it up for painting
Love your work! What kind of epoxy do you normally use and where so you get it?
thank you, I currently use Magic Resin, usually ships by next day
Hey Sir. You are awesome. Been doing such signs on my cnc but nowhere near the as quality of yours!! I would like to have your contact!
thanks, you can find me on Facebook
Hi! Thank you for your detailed Video, the sign looks absolut amazing. My only question is about the finish Step with clear epoxy. How do you Coat the sides/edges and prevent the epoxy from dripping down? The surface on top is easy, but what about the sides!! Thank you so much
@@ralfplewa2472 I actually just flood it from the middle and let gravity do the work. I use a rubber glove to make sure I get everything squeezed into all the nooks and crannies and all the tough spots and let it flow over the edge. I also have a video that shows what I do to accommodate the drips after it is cured
@@bradscustomsigns8585 thanks for your fast reply, i will have a look at the Video you mentioned..
Teach me Obi Wan.
After you did the clear it looks like you set a piece of foam core on top (at around 5:05 minutes in). Was that making contact for some reason, was it a dust barrier while the clear cured or does it serve some other purpose?
Thanks for the awesome walk through!
thanks. Yes that was just a piece of coroplast to keep the air born contaminants off while it dries.
Thanks!@@bradscustomsigns8585
This video is by far the best video from start to finish. I have a shapeoko 3 xxl with carbide create software and hopefully to upgrade to a better software soon. I just subscribed to your channel and looking forward to learning from you. You are too awesome. Do you create files and sell them?
I've never really gotten into the file selling game, I've had a few people contact me looking for help and they have sent me a little tip in appreciation but that's about as far as I've gone.
@Brad's Custom Signs ok I understand. I will be following you to learn as much as I can and I don't mind paying for some knowledge. I'm now following your Facebook page. Thanks for the awesome videos.
@Brad's Custom Signs I have a question. Do you mind telling me what software you use to create the signs? I have carbide create but wanting upgrade.
@Ricky Curry I'm using carbide create standard version. I may update to pro version or something different in order to start doing full 3d carving, I just haven't found the need for it quite yet
@Brad's Custom Signs ok thanks. I was told I needed the expensive software to do what I see you are doing. Thanks for clearing it up. I will work with what I got.
I love these signs. I struggle with paint. What spray paint do you use? Sand between coats? Thanks for any help
Thanks. Predominantly Rustoleum spray, 3 "light" coats 20 - 30 min apart (don't try to get full coverage in first couple), let dry, light sand and then 1 more coat if needed.
Thanks again. Sand with a 220 grit or higher? Thanks again for the advice.
@@willbarnett205 I like to go at least that or higher, just enough to take off the shine
Man that is freaking awesome! Would you be willing to part with the gcodes? By the way what size is the sign?
Thanks. If you find me on Facebook under the same name we can more easily communicate
24" wide piece
Great job,i like it!!!
Is it for sale????
made this for a friend
Very cool. Any chance you use VCarve Pro and sell the files?
sorry, I use Carbide Create
As far as the epoxy are you just pouring white initially then after it cures going back over it with the different colors? What type of squeeze bottle are you using?
yes, the first layer is basically a filler because I don't use deep pour epoxy, and I use a slightly translucent white to avoid getting too opaque and ensure that the lights will still show through the final pour.
This was the last batch of bottles, but I typically look for sales of similar type
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08GP3P7RJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Why would you not just use clear on the first half?? Would that not have saved you some white die and prep time? Or is there something I'm missing?
@@MagnumPopeye it's only a small amount of pigment, and I think (and it's possible I'm wrong) it helps with to keep the top colors more opaque.
How did you know to flip it perfectly that it would cut on the other side
I just made sure it was exactly on center of the slab on top cut, and then ensured centered again when flipped
Can I come and spend a day in your shop
😃
What clear expoy and orange, white paint?
I currently use Magic Resin tabletop, Rust oleum spray paint, and Ecopoxy liquid pigments for most projects. And on this project, I also used the paint as the pigment for the orange
what type of epoxy are you using for the top coat
I am currently using Magic Resin Tabletop
Hi where do you buy the cnc i cant find any here in Ireland
I got mine from the US (I'm in Canada), but I'm not sure about their shipping limitations. I would suggest joining a group or 2 on Facebook, and just ask other members that may be in your part of the world
Hello, Can you tell me what kind of pigment do you use and in what proportions? All of my suppliers are telling me that the covering pigment will not let light through...
the white was tinted with Ecopoxy liquid pigment, and the Orange was tinted with Rustoleum bright orange paint
Do you notice an heat issues from all this LEDs?
not at all, these strips are not very intense
Could we get a link to the led lights you use? Thank you!
LED's are from Amazon www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B085FRXVMC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Can you share what brand of epoxy you use?
currently using Magic Resin
How did you set it up to cut out on the back side? I tried and my cuts were almost an inch off.
I plot my design in the exact center of the blank, so that after I do the first carve and flip it over, the reversed image is still in the exact center
@@bradscustomsigns8585 that makes sense! Thanks!
@@bradscustomsigns8585 I Think I understand what you are saying, but is there a trick to making sure the sign is positioned correctly when flipping it over? Is it OK if it isn't 100% lined up? Thanks and very cool video!
@@jimyongue6172 well the consistent positioning is the key. I have a preference for a dedicated X/Y location (mine is bottom left), so when I set my zero for X/Y, it is on the same place for every piece I do, never have to reset, the only zero I set is for my Z. So I set my artwork in the exact center of my blank slab, carve my piece, and then when I flip it over, the art is still in the exact center of the blank on the opposite side, so you need only to flip your design to match its location.
@@bradscustomsigns8585 Thanks, I'm new to the CNC machine world. I have some trial and error ahead of me.
Hi do you epoxy the back?
I do not, just sand it clean and install a hanger
@@bradscustomsigns8585 Thank you!!
Really great looking sign. You lost me though it looked like you glued the back on, then sanded it and then took it back off. I’m assuming to put the lights in it, but why not put them in first, then glue and sand? I missed the taking it off the first time and then wondered how you got the lights in.
I put the back cover on the riser ring to keep the shape and rigidity while it is being glued. And I install the lights last in the event I have any slips and have to make some modifications.
@@bradscustomsigns8585 Oh, ok. So a back cover, a riser ring and the front piece. Think I got it now. I do like the spend up videos, but I do miss some things. Thanks for the reply. And again, great looking sign.
how deep do you usually make your pockets before you put resin i usually do .20 but i found i was using too much resin but i dont know if thats acceptable so recently i began a project with .10 i use less but it pours out however i will surface the project .02
I'm typically at .15", but I calculate my epoxy for .125, so it's just a hair below surface
@@bradscustomsigns8585 really so it's ok to be under the edge ?
that's how I like to do it, more dimension.
Can I buy your file?
find me on Facebook