USING CNC TO CREATE A MASSIVE EPOXY POUR (and what I learned)
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2024
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Links to products used in this video (some links may be affiliate):
MAS Epoxy - amzn.to/3OWAlqd
Black Diamond Pigments (hunter green) - amzn.to/3B8bOIQ
Black Diamond Pigments (silver white) - amzn.to/3FqtAJZ
- timestamps -
00:00 - Intro
00:36 - Mockups
02:25 - Joining Maple
03:05 - CNC Maple
04:57 - White Epoxy Pour
07:21 - Silver White Pour
09:45 - CNC White
11:13 - Green Epoxy Pour
12:37 - Polishing Fail
14:25 - Epoxy Topcoat
14:57 - Installing Hardware
15:58 - Hanging Artwork - Навчання та стиль
Nice Job, I'm sure that was nerve racking and satisfying.
Plane it with a surfacing bit, you are right on the cnc.
Your first pour and it came out that good?! Haha I wish I could’ve said the same. The wood inlay was amazing. Walnut and Maple together makes me happy. You said that you didn’t have a planer large enough? You have a massive, very expensive planer right there. Haha. I do a lot of CNC epoxy stuff on my CNC and have never ran it through a planer. Before you start, put double sided tape down or use your domino in the side of the wood panel and clamp down from inside the mortises. Use a 1/16” start depth on all your tool paths. Do your pours, then use a good flattening bit to take off that 1/16” at the end. Boom, perfect, flat epoxy inlay. Also, to get the sharp corners, Use a 60 degree V bit, do a V-carve with a flat depth of your choice (doesn’t have to be depth of pocket) and you’ll get sharp, crisp inside and outside corners. Offset your pockets in a little and let that V bit be your final pass to give you the correct dimensions. I use VCarve, if you have any questions, I’d love to help. Just found your channel. Subscribed!
Brett, thanks for taking the time to share all that, I appreciate it!
Looks great. The epoxy hardens faster from the heat it generates. Thicker in the bucket produces more heat and hardens faster.
Makes sense!
Man that looks gorgeous! I would be terrified of messing up so much epoxy. I hope the school enjoys it and never changes their logo!
Thanks!
Hi, I've seen others use their CNC to do a skim cut so no need to just sand the epoxy. Might be quicker for future pores. Also, if you start from 100 grit sandpaper and work all the way up to 1000, the polish ( or cutting compound) will do a better job.
Great outcome though, 😊.
Thanks Colin, I'm learning... I have used my cnc for surfacing this type of thing more and it works pretty good for that
You do great work. I'd just love to figure out how to do the wood inlay.
Well done, great looking project !
Curious why you didn’t use threaded inserts to mount the bracket. I think you make the right call on the whites for sure. The first whites was flat and boring, the movement in the silver makes the piece I think n
Awesome project. It turned out great!
For your consideration: Curing time is temperature dependent. A pour with a large surface to volume ratio will dissipate heat faster and not reach as high a temperature.
I've learned that since I made this video, but the way you explain it with the surface area makes sense. Thanks
I don't know what i am talking about, but i assume that when bigger volumes are curing, it heats up more, which makes curing faster. Thin layer on top was just cooling down too much.
What an AWESOME job! Mikey likes it!❤
Thanks!
i loved the wood inlay, nice work though.
Absolutely fantastic!! Thanks for sharing the process.
Thanks!
came out really nice! great work
Thanks!
Nice work, inspiring actually. Couple of questions for you please. 1 - how did you prevent the epoxy from bleeding into the wood edges ? 2 - I noticed you used a paddle to mix the epoxy, how do you clean it ? Or is it a use once and throw away kinda tool ?
I don't really have trouble with epoxy bleeding into edges with hardwood like maple, but plywood or something like that with a very porous end grain can be an issue. Never a bad idea to seal it ahead of time though either way. The paddle is reused over and over. Sometimes I'll run it in water, but lacquer thinner or mineral spirits is better.
I’m a hobbyist hand carver and I ran into the problem of several of my inorganic designs looking too perfect. People assumed I was using a CNC. LOL! Now I add some imperfections so it looks handcarved.
For real the machines are too perfect sometimes
@@ModernArtisan Great job on the crest! You’re an inspiration! You’ve got a new subscriber.👍
Looks awesome!
Thanks!
Good afternoon . What parameters to use when processing the epoxy surface with a milling cutter?
Really nicely done. The top coat was a great idea. Thanks. The respirator you used... what is it please? I like that it is a face shield and filter. Thank you!
Thanks Jay, the full face respirator is 3M Ultimate FX FF-400
I'm about to be CNCing some epoxy this week, mainly just surfacing something I pored last Friday. Any recommendations for a bit? and chip load?
Great job!!! New subscriber here!
Thanks!
Curious why you didn't use your CNC to mill the top coat off and then have less sanding?
That’s a good observation. I didn’t have a good surfacing bit-the one I used for my spoiler board did a poor job and left burn marks on the maple in my tests-next time! I was just a little nervous about screwing it up.
Have you instead of pocketing the whole white area, pocket out the individual white areas but 1/4 inch oversized, then doing the pour? Then you can run the green path like you're already doing, and you'll waste so much less white epoxy, and cut down on your milling time significantly
The shield looks great, i really like it. The colors and effects. But the light in the location doesnt really popp it (angled neon light?). It looks bland and not even saturated. Is this due to the camera and in reality it popps or is it bland in reality too? If so, with a spotlight this should really popp out.
Thanks! In reality it does look a little better than it did on the camera, but the lighting is bad in that lobby. I said the same thing that it needs better lighting hitting it, because in my shop it really looked amazing.
@@ModernArtisan "because in my shop it really looked amazing" indeed, it did.
how much did your cnc with tool changer cost you?
May I ask where you purchased the hanging bracket? The end result of the project is impressive. Adding the additional 1/8 pour made a huge difference.
Hi David, there is a local small business I work with to bend special brackets or do welding for me-I usually just sketch something up and tell them what I need. That being said, there’s a lot of lighter panels I hang with manufactured brackets from company’s like Monarch Metals. This particular project required something more custom because of the size/weight. Thanks!
why did you sand it if you have a cnc? why didnt you you just run a surfacing bit on it?
Wow!!
Thanks!
Any idea a piece that size weight’s? Ballpark,How heavy?
Maybe 140lbs-just a guess
How much were the material cost approximately?
I did not track it at all but I'm sure the material costs were north of $2k
What did that sign cost to buy?
I donated it to the school
Commendable.
What cnc machine is that?? 😮
It’s a Laguna smart shop M. I have a whole other video on setting it up and the first several projects
You have a huge planer. The cmc can plane anything. I plane wood with my cnc that is to big for my planer.
Yes, exactly, I’ve started using it for that quite a bit. My latest video with the shuffleboard table I use the CNC to surface the board
Why instead of milling white epoxy you didn't leave wood there. You could save time and money.
Just wanted the white background. You’re right though it’s a lot more $$ in epoxy. The latest video I posted had a one color inlay in a shuffleboard table-it’s a classy look
Slight shrinkage, very common problem. I don’t think women know about shrinkage.
🤣🤣
Instead of sanding next time look at surfacing it with the CNC.
Man, Epoxy is so bad for the environment abd the plastic feeling it has (as it is a plastic) is awful. Sorry though.