Multi Colored EPOXY INLAY With a CNC
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- Опубліковано 8 гру 2022
- When I set out to inlay a really detailed logo I wasn't sure how I was going to do it. Here's my first shot at a two part multi colored epoxy inlay using my ShopBot CNC to help knock out the routing and TotalBoat High Performance Epoxy.
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1 Timothy 1:15-17 - Навчання та стиль
Looks great! Like the Rubio on the wood. Guessing it doesn’t stick well to the epoxy, at least when wet.
Thank you! I'm happy with how it turned out 😃. Once the epoxy is cured the Rubio can be applied over top. It seems to still adhere a bit but not sure if it's as much as over wood.
Awesome inlay work! It looks great!
Thank you so much! I'm really happy with how it came together and can't imagine having done this logo any other way!
Is it mandatory to pass through the drum sander twice? What would have happened if you did the red part, let it dry, then the blue part, let it dry, then drum-sand?
Since there's a hard line between the red and blue I had to do this as a two part operation. If there was a little bit of wood between the colors I could have poured all of the colors at once though.
@@WoodshopMike The question wasn't about doing both pours at once, the question was about running thru the sander twice. The sequence: pour Red, let it dry, Carve pocket for blue, pour blue, let it dry, then sand
I would run it through twice
Mike, which Total boat products did you use? I’d like to try my first inlay fill.
how do make sure alignment is perfect on your cmc in the second pass ?
I positioned it with layout lines and just took my time lining it back up👍
Is it mandatory to use a drum sander? what would have happened if you did a clearing pass with an endmill instead?
You can for sure use an end mill to clean up the first color before pouring the second one👍
@@WoodshopMike does it only apply to the interim between the colors? Is it mandatory for the final pass to be a drum sander?
Where did you buy that tiny end mill bit from?
Hey Brett!
Here's a link: bitsbits.com/product/fret-slot-cutting-cnc-bit/?campaign=.023endmill
If you decide to try them out, you can save $10 with this code at checkout: woodshopmike
Surprised you didn’t get any resin bleed. I’m struggling with this, any ideas?
I was fortunate on this project to not have that happen. You could try applying a coat of shellac to seal the grain or first brush on a thin layer of penetrating epoxy. Good luck!
Does the epoxy normally cure a bit higher than the wood.
Also I'm caving very thin lines about .03" deep and want to go with black pigment with my epoxy.
However my board is pine and I want a very dark walnut like looking stain.
Can I stain over the epoxy? There will also be some blue epoxy lakes on this project. If I run the project thru a drim sander there goes my stain. Can I then stain over the epoxybwithout loosing the blue and black epoxy effect
If you fill the cavity all the way to the top the epoxy with be a bit shy of the top once it's cured. You can either plane/sander everything flat or overfill the void and then sand back the excess epoxy. If you overfill you can outline the area to be filled with a border of caulk to keep the epoxy from going everywhere. Staining on top of epoxy wouldn't work very well but you could try artists markers like chartpak. Hope that helps, let me know if you have any other questions!
@WoodshopMike if I stain my board first, then apply oramask, then carve.
Then apply epoxy. Let it cure then remove the oramask. How does that sound.
When I peel off the oramask, will it pull out the very shallow epoxy
Thanks for responding
I would think the epoxy would stay put as long as it's fully cured before applying the oramask. Let me know how it works out for you!
@WoodshopMike I would pour the epoxy with ora mask still on. Then peel it off after cured. Is that what you meant?
Oh gotcha sorry I misread. I would wait to peel the oramask until it starts to gel