Followed your video step by step on my 1954 Chevy, very informative video and everything worked first time. The only thing was I didn't know what terminal to attach the wire to on the ignition on mine there are four terminals, but I hooked it up to the one that said ignition and it worked like a charm great video
Great job Eric! I'm currently converting my 1948 Chevy pickup. This really helped. FYI, I bought all the component you mentioned as a kit from Vintage Auto. All in cost was over $400. Wish I had watched your suggestions before hand.
Nice video. I switched my 42 Dodge from 6V positive ground to 12V negative ground. You use the same process but remember to install a new condenser under the distributor cap. Happy motoring.
how did you know what value condenser to buy and why did you change it the condenser has to match the coil not the voltage it will work but will see more pitted points -----also spark will increase or decrease depending on what value you use.
Thank you very much for posting this video. This is one of the best, most complete and thorough instructional videos we have seen on the net. Very, very good video. Thank you and God Bless You !!...
Thank you, Eric, for these informative videos. I have a 1950 Chevy Styleline 4-Door 3.5L that I'm getting ready to convert. I’m fed up with the 6Volt system. Please continue to upload all the updates you’re doing to your Styleline so we can learn from your experiences.
I just bought my dads 50 chevy convertible DeLuxe from my sister. before he passed he was converting it to 12volt. I don't know where he left off but your video will help me out tremendously! Hope that he change all those things! Thanks for sharing this with us. Trying to start it and found out there was a hotwire from ignition switch going know where and he put a kill switch on it. I figure it out.....I hope! Thanks again!
Great video, explains a lot of things. I have a 1954 Chevy 2 ton (235cid) that some one else converted. Gas guage is fried and it has ongoing charging issues with the regulator. I am defo going to switch out the gen for the alt. I am retrofitting the gas guage to 12volt right now and have speedo and cluster removed to accomplish that. It would have made a good video except it would take all afternoon to watch. Thanks again.
Great video, very informative! The alternator and brackets could be picked up at a junkyard for $20-30. I have pulled a few for different cars and tested them at the parts store free of charge.
i guess Im asking randomly but does someone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account..? I was dumb forgot my password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Ramon Jack i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im trying it out now. Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
The reason you don't see a voltage regulator is because it's internal to the alternator ie: built in. Another advantage is alternators are more reliable and like the battery WAY cheaper. Plus if you need to replace anything it's not a factory order or internet. The reason the Alt bracket are so pricey is demand there just isn't any so they get made in small batches only as needed. You could cobble something together with a welder and some flat stock for a little bit of nothing. Just a thought...
I just put a newer 250 straight six with 350 automatic transmission in my 1947chevy coupe stylemaster switch it over to 12 volt disc brakes in the front 5on5 lugs. That old car keeps up in modern traffic
If you run that red wire to a main junction such as the fuse box input, or run it to the starter like stock gm cars it will compensate for losses in wiring. That's why they do it because the power comes from the battery cable at the starter and upstream from there, and if choose the inside fuse panel or wherever it connects from battery of course and you'll get 14.4v to everything as long as it goes to the main junction somewhere within. I'd pick the longest run. And to the end of that run and you'd be shocked at the difference, especially since the times where you'd use something with heavy amperage like the lights it wouldn't drop down and dim nearly as bad and your lights would be nice and bright particularly if you've used at least 14awg to the headlights and for the taillights do 2357 or 7528, the 7528 is noticeably brighter but actually uses less power and not as hot. 2357 is brighter brake lamp but uses more power and much hotter. So I use 7528. And for the front turns you should use 1156A for yellow. At least that's what I do and they work great. And for the 1156 clear use 3497 bulbs they are almost twice as bright but same wattage. They are all legit upgrades for modern day incandescent bulbs. And the clock usually you can use a 1155 in it's place and the only benefit would be 5,000hrs or 10,000 hours on the 1155long life vs 800hrs on the 89.
Your conversion is OK exept 2 little items a) the red wire of the alt regulator goes to battery positive post, in your setup, the alternator ignores the voltage drop in the charging wire and as the consumption increases, the effective voltage to the battery posts decreases, I suggest you to install a 20 to 50 ohm resistor in parrallel to the charging warning light in the event it burns, OMC uses a diode to prevent after run issue. b) in your ignition circuit, you should bypass the ballast resistor to start, I've done it using a Bosch relay and using the starter signal wire to trigger the relay As long you don't abuse the starter, it will not cause issues the biggest problem is the gauges, the best way is to measure the amperage and build a resistor bank to drop from 12 to 6 volts. I don't think you can do the same thing with the radio as on the 6 volt system, the ground is positive and on the 12 volt system, the ground is negative
I would love to see you do some cold starts on all of your trucks and cars. You’re so knowledgeable and it would be cool to see the full startup procedure on all of them. I’m new to carbureted engines and could use some tips especially with regards to what to do with the gas pedal during cold starts.
Pull the choke out and start it. Listen as it warms up to know when to start pushing the choke back in. As the engine comes up to temp continue pushing the choke in until it is completely off.
Excellent video. If you want to run a 120 amp charging system for hi powerd audio/ video or air suspension compressor use a 1985 Chevrolet Caprice 5.7 alternator $90. I wonder if converting a 1953 Lincoln Capri would be the same process.
Ebay has a (CHEVY DELCO ALTERNATOR HARNESS ANTI- FEEDBACK DIODE 10SI 12SI 15SI 27SI wire) which come with both harnesses for $10, in case anyone was interested?
This video was super valuable, i'm currently in the conversion process myself on my RHD 1950 in Western Australia. I did some things quite similar to you. What I also did is get a Kit 11 Accuspark hall effect electronic ignition module to go inside the Delco Remy distributor so no more stuffing around with setting points. I highly recommend the module for smooth ignition. I also replaced my tail, park and plate lamps with automotive LED versions, which make the lights super bright. I've also read that it is worth using a 12V solenoid for the starter.
Glad it was useful. I tried the led lights and I just like the glow of incandescent better. They are still much better than the originals. I am considering the pertronics ignition but that will have to come later.
I fear these kits, I had a bad experience with one of these I prefer by far using standard automotive parts I used Chrysler reluctor and pick up coil, GM HEI modules to build electronic ignition on about anything on small diameter distributors, I search a corresponding model with magnetic pick up coil and I transfer the parts and use a HEI module
I would also suggest a voltage converter to convert the 12v back to 6-7volt for the proper voltage for the fuel guage and gas tank sender to work without burning up. What has been your experience?
Hi Eric, Study up on DC to DC converters. I think you will find they are a cheap way to drop the voltage for your dash and a big one should run your 6 volt radio on 6 volts for you. They are fairly cheap and easy to use.
Classic parts and a couple other parts sites offer a original looking 12 generator.. generators cut out the middle man (single diode rectifier) and produce straight DC current. Modern Alternators have either a single diode or a full bridge rectifier to make the AC into DC. If you’re going for the original look you can get a 12v generator rebuilt. The long one fit my 235 perfectly. The 216 might need a short though.
the ignition coil for 12 volt you can use a bosch blue coil for a volkswagen beetle they are internally resisted for a points replacement you can use a Pertronix ignitor kit that goes in your distributor as they have the original ignitor if its a non resisted coil you have to use a ballast resistor with thi ignitor l the pertronix ignitor ll the ballast resistor is optional as it works will with internally resisted coils. as they have ignitors that fits various distributors. as the magnet sleeve goes over the points cam. as the ignitor ll is more reliable better for daily drivers. as the ignitor fits in the stock distributor so no aftermarket distributor needed. and you don't need points anymore but save your points for backup.
I have a 1947 Chevy coupe stylemaster I did many up grades to my car 250 straight six with 350 automatic transmission 5on5 lugs disc brakes in the front, electric ignition 12 volt conversion. This car keeps up with modern-day traffic. I made the engine mounts I can put a V8 if I wanted to.
Hi, you are awesome for doing this and showing us how to do it. Would it be the same process for. 1948 Chevy Fleetmaster? It’s a 6 cylinder same as your car. Everything is extra dim. -thank you
For blower you can use one from a mid 80s to early 90s sqaurebody suburban or a k10 as well but the suburban one blows a lot faster and just has the normal state terminal. And for everything else use converters from Amazon such as for the radio they are like 10 bucks.
I think a voltage regulator would've protected certain circuits. I have one on my firewall. I did however have to change my plastic tail light lenses to handle the brighter 12 volt power
I also have a 52, but in the middle of a full frame off restoration. I also have a 41 I'd like to convert as you did with your 52. Would this be the same for my 41 with a 216?
Im wanting to do the same process on a semi truck of similar age with a large 6 cyl gas motor. How does the 10si charge at idle? Does it require revving to charge?
I had a 53 Pontiac back in the 1966. Paid $15. Was only 6 cyl but fast because body had rusted away and engine had built up high compression over the years. Am doing 6 -12 v conversion on 1966 English motorcycle that is POS ground, so (if I keep it Pos ground) do I run the hot ignition wire (neg. one from ign switch) to the resistor and then the Neg. side of the coil rather than the Pos? Is the idea just to resist the input to the coil? Oh, but this bike like many others (Harley, Honda) has the high tension cable going directly from coil to spark plug, the "distributor" (c.b. points) is earlier in the system. So maybe the resistor is just for automobile type where high tension cable runs from coil to distributor and distributor to plugs?
What should a person pay to have a mechanic switch my 1953 Chevy BelAir with the 6 cyl engine from 6 volt to 12 volt? I am disabled and unable to do it myself, besides I have no tools, just wondering if you could tell me what a fair price to do this would be? Thank you, loved your video.
Great video!! You said when you changed the coil you had some issues with your points and you said you fixed the issue that it was a ignition issue. Can you reply and tell me what that issue was please I’m having the same issue right now thank you.
If I recall the only issue I had was when o had the extra wire going to the coil. The points can't handle a full 12 volts so running it through the resistor made it all work.
My 52 Styleline doesn't have the extra turn signal bulbs, it's the deluxe model, does that make a difference? Also, it has the 235 engine with the powerglide trans, factory stock. I've been having all kinds of problems lately with spark, the turn signals have never worked, and the brake signals aren't working anymore either. Seeing someone with basically the same car as me, I'd love to pick your brain about some of the work you've done. I'm going to be watching all your videos!
Your coil should receive a full 12 volts on startup and then drop to 7 volts thru the ballast resister when the engine is running. On a cold day you need the extra voltage at coil to start. You probably could achieve this with a relay or use a later starter like a 235 6 cyl. starter if it would fit. They have an R terminal that sends the 12 volts to the coil only on crank.
The biggest advantage is availability of electrical parts (lamps, batteries, accessories and other electrical parts), which in most cases are a lot less expensive than the 6V counterparts. Another advantage is improved power delivery to the vehicle electrics, since a 12V accessory will draw half the current of the equivalent 6V part (assuming the same wattage rating). This means less power lost as voltage drop in the vehicle wiring connecting the accessory. And in many cases, the 12V item may draw _less_ than half the current simply from sdvances in the technology (such as LED lamps compared even to the incandescent versions). Still another advantage is greatly improved charging systems. Even the basic alternator shown in this video will easily outperform any generator type charging system, not only providing more power, but also doing so at engine idle, which most generators are incapable of. These are the same reasons cars first went to 12 volts in the mid-50s, then to alternators in the '60s when solid state technology made them practical.
Hi Eric can you help me I've got a 38 Chevy 6 volt stopped charging. Got a good battery, I don't see a voltage regulator anywhere. The original generator Delco Remy has a little square box mounted to it, is that the regulator built on? How do I check this thing ? What should it be putting out I have a volt meter. Thanks
Good video. 2 questions. 1 what ohm resister did you use for the gas gauge? 2 Why not use a self exciting voltage regulator in your alternator? then it only needs one main wire to the battery.
Eric, Just one question Why don't you run a new wire to the accessories rather then patch into a wire that is 70 years old? I'm not saying all the wires but anything in the engine compartment or what goes to the dashboard.
Question , I have a 54' Bel air , switched to 12v Ron Francis harness , changed heater blower to a 12v motor , will the heater control switch ( has coiled resistor wire) in control panel handle the 12 volts?
I would think it would being your just passing amperage through it. I never switched my motor or switch and it handled the 12 volts. I'm not sure how long the motor would have handled it but when I sold the car it was still working.
Great instructions! I have a foot pedal starter. Does the DA plug line with the diode still run to the middle post on the ignition switch? My ignition switch does not have an ACC position. Only OFF and ON. Thanks again for the instructions!
hey buddy how are you? I have a question for you: Once i make the car 12 volts, where can i find a battery tray for the new battery since the 12 volts battery is going to be bigger than the 6 volts and it wont fit on the 6 volts tray?
I didn't have a problem fitting a 12 volt battery in place of the 6 volt. If you need a new tray though, National Chevy Association or a number of other companies should carry them.
Good evening Erick, I installed an alternator and a 12volt coil and now the car cranks over but will not start . I installed a new fuel pump and fuel lines from the tank to the carb the carb was also rebuilt. Do you think the points could be bad.?
hey Eric great great video doing the same to my 52 also and using your video as tutorial. 1 question instead of using a light bulb to see if system charging can I tap into the gen light for same result ?
I like the Skyline, there are a couple that look just like it here in Pendleton Oregon, same color even , love the videos, "Drunk driver takes a swing" was great, the drunk made me laugh til I found out he had his kid with him, he got what he deserves. Keep up the vids
12 volt items are easier to get at any parts store and you can still keep it original looking. The 6 volt starter LOVES 12 volts. The factory wiring is more than sufficient as 12 volts has half the amperage as 6 volts so there's no need to change wiring unless its bad.
hey eric is this the same type of alternator/compressor belt you are using ? New Classical Style V Belt B41 B-41 5L440 5/8" x 44 40 degree angle ,.43 " high by .66" wide ?
Thanks for the great video, Eric. This kind of tutorial info really helps when you're tackling a project like this for the first time (the second time is ALWAYS much easier/faster). I am curious about the impedance value of the resistors you used. Looks like the ballast resistor (for the ignition) that I see on line are 1.4 to 1.6 ohms. Is that what you used? Also, I would also like to know what value resistor you used for the gas gauge. Thanks for the great video, Brother! -Lee
I couldn't yell you values of the resistors as I don't know exactly what they are. A quick search should solve that though. The ballast resistor for the coil is a stock 60's-80's dodge vehicle (any of them work) and the gas gauge is one that I bought from a shop called Bow Tie Bits. Hopes this helps and thank you.
Eric, I have a question? 3:26-4:07 when you discuss removal of Regulator and splicing the old Generator 10-gauge wire to the 10-gauge wire that feeds the AMP meter is there any concerns of frying the old Dash AMP meter? Will the battery charge properly? Did you have to make any modifications to the old AMP meter gauge/wiring such as removing it from the electrical circuit, bypassing or resplice any of the wires aroundthe at the AMP Meter? And will it work fine without any adverse issues such as blow-up the AMP meter? I know that for the other instrumentational cluster gauges to work a voltage reducer or resistor will need to be added to drop from 12-6volts to prevent from blowing the dash gauges. I hope this question finds your way and makes sense?
I have a '53 I had a friend who was a mechanic convert for me some years ago. Well my problem is a I recently got a new battery to star it up after it sitting for a while. I found a turning signal clicking away when I climbed in( showed the battery was hooked up). When I hit the starter switch it just went "click " and that as it . Now nothing comes on.. What should I check and test?
Eric - i noticed you left the old wiring. What are your thoughts about leaving the wiring and not updating it? Is there a fire hazard when converting from a 6 to 12 volt system?
My wiring was in good shape and the 6 volt wiring has a higher amp rating than the 12 volt does. As long as your 6 volt wiring is still good it will handle the 12 volts with less amperage no problem.
What signs do you look for when determining whether it is good or not? I have a ‘46 Power Wagon from OK and I think the dirt protected the wiring more than anything.
I've watched your video about 10 over the past year and I am finally going to get started. You mentioned buying a DA plug for the alternator without a resistor but making sure to add a 1 amp 50w diode to save money. Is this correct or should I add a resistor instead of a diode?
when you did the 6 volt to 12 volt conversion did you use a Voltage Reducer Regulator for your gages? also wen are you going to put the light bulbs list
Only a regulator to the fuel gauge. I didn't end up getting a list together before I sold the car. I do remember several bulbs were the 1156 though. Tail lights, parking lights, etc. Headlights were a standard 7 inch round head light. If you take your dash light bulb to the parts store they should be able to cross reference it pretty easily.
I know you mentioned the turn signal was still operational after 12volt conversion, and you'd thought the bulb would eventually blow but have you had any issues with your thermal flasher cylinder as well? Thx,
I've done everything you explained on the video, I have to get a belt today to finish up. I now see that you put a 12v flasher relay in, can you explain where that is and how it went in. I'm hoping to finish up tonight.
I have never temp checked it or put my hand on it. I know I can drive it all day with no issues though. The ballast resistor is in a place that gets alot of airflow also.
I have a 53 chevy im trying to get the fuel gauge to work ..could u possible tell me the number off the side of that resistor so I know what to get ..thanks
Hello, the guys that is doing the changeover from 6 to 12 volts in my 1950 tells me that he doesn’t need to install a voltage reducer for the fuel pump and that nothing will happen if he hooks up the 12 volts leaving everything the same as it was before with the 6 volts. What do you think of that?
I believe the 12 volts will make it read inaccurately at best. It's a resistance reading from the sending unit in the tank. It very well could burn out the guage also, like a light bulb.
@@ericsscout is what’s your advise? To leave it without the voltage reducer? Also is the fuel pump on the cars mechanical? In the last video I posted, I showed how he did the conversion. I would appreciate if you look at and tell me what you think. The video is in Spanish.... I’m Cuban American.
@@GenerationOldschoolEspañol beautiful car and I loved seeing the inside of his shop. Your fuel pump is still mechanical so no changes there. If it were me I would install it as it's cheap insurance for the gauge. Rebuilds on those are kind of expensive.
@@ericsscout my gas gauge hasn’t worked since I bought the car. So I shouldn’t worry about the voltage reducer unless I fix it? Also to fix that gauge, I would need to replace the sending unit or I need to replace the whole gauge assembly?
@@GenerationOldschoolEspañol ot would depend on which one is bad. I would bet the sending unit is bad. It's a resistance measurement based on how far up or down the float is. You could pull the siding unit and check it with an ohm meter and that would tell you if its working or not. I would guess ots bad though being 70 years old. Check the wire on top of it first for a clean and tight fit.
Literally the best in depth video on UA-cam not only telling you how to do it but also a little knowledge on why 👍🏻 quite helpfull and enjoyabke
Thank you
Followed your video step by step on my 1954 Chevy, very informative video and everything worked first time. The only thing was I didn't know what terminal to attach the wire to on the ignition on mine there are four terminals, but I hooked it up to the one that said ignition and it worked like a charm great video
Great job Eric! I'm currently converting my 1948 Chevy pickup. This really helped. FYI, I bought all the component you mentioned as a kit from Vintage Auto. All in cost was over $400. Wish I had watched your suggestions before hand.
I'm glad it helped. at least now you don't have to be concerned you didn't buy all the right parts. Sometimes a kit is nice.
Nice video. I switched my 42 Dodge from 6V positive ground to 12V negative ground. You use the same process but remember to install a new condenser under the distributor cap. Happy motoring.
how did you know what value condenser to buy and why did you change it the condenser has to match the coil not the voltage it will work but will see more pitted points -----also spark will increase or decrease depending on what value you use.
Thank you very much for posting this video. This is one of the best, most complete and thorough instructional videos we have seen on the net. Very, very good video. Thank you and God Bless You !!...
Thank you
Thank you, Eric, for these informative videos. I have a 1950 Chevy Styleline 4-Door 3.5L that I'm getting ready to convert. I’m fed up with the 6Volt system. Please continue to upload all the updates you’re doing to your Styleline so we can learn from your experiences.
Thank you so much for this, really well explained and has been a massive help on converting my ‘51 Styleline here in the uk. Great video!🇺🇸🇬🇧👍
I just bought my dads 50 chevy convertible DeLuxe from my sister. before he passed he was converting it to 12volt. I don't know where he left off but your video will help me out tremendously! Hope that he change all those things! Thanks for sharing this with us. Trying to start it and found out there was a hotwire from ignition switch going know where and he put a kill switch on it. I figure it out.....I hope!
Thanks again!
Great video, explains a lot of things. I have a 1954 Chevy 2 ton (235cid) that some one else converted. Gas guage is fried and it has ongoing charging issues with the regulator. I am defo going to switch out the gen for the alt. I am retrofitting the gas guage to 12volt right now and have speedo and cluster removed to accomplish that. It would have made a good video except it would take all afternoon to watch. Thanks again.
Great video, very informative! The alternator and brackets could be picked up at a junkyard for $20-30. I have pulled a few for different cars and tested them at the parts store free of charge.
Dan R from what vehicle will the brackets and alternator work?
i guess Im asking randomly but does someone know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was dumb forgot my password. I would love any help you can offer me!
@Jason Roberto instablaster :)
@Ramon Jack i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and im trying it out now.
Seems to take a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Ramon Jack It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy!
Thank you so much you really help me out !
The reason you don't see a voltage regulator is because it's internal to the alternator ie: built in. Another advantage is alternators are more reliable and like the battery WAY cheaper. Plus if you need to replace anything it's not a factory order or internet.
The reason the Alt bracket are so pricey is demand there just isn't any so they get made in small batches only as needed. You could cobble something together with a welder and some flat stock for a little bit of nothing. Just a thought...
I just put a newer 250 straight six with 350 automatic transmission in my 1947chevy coupe stylemaster switch it over to 12 volt disc brakes in the front 5on5 lugs. That old car keeps up in modern traffic
About to do conversation on 41 Chevy with 235... Thanks for all the info.. great heip.
I followed this video when I converted my 48 chevy truck to 12 volts. Made it very easy.
Thanks for taking the time and explaining everything so well. Enjoyed your video.
Great video I think I'm gonna turn in my 1951 Chevy like that thanks for putting this video up.
If you run that red wire to a main junction such as the fuse box input, or run it to the starter like stock gm cars it will compensate for losses in wiring. That's why they do it because the power comes from the battery cable at the starter and upstream from there, and if choose the inside fuse panel or wherever it connects from battery of course and you'll get 14.4v to everything as long as it goes to the main junction somewhere within. I'd pick the longest run. And to the end of that run and you'd be shocked at the difference, especially since the times where you'd use something with heavy amperage like the lights it wouldn't drop down and dim nearly as bad and your lights would be nice and bright particularly if you've used at least 14awg to the headlights and for the taillights do 2357 or 7528, the 7528 is noticeably brighter but actually uses less power and not as hot. 2357 is brighter brake lamp but uses more power and much hotter. So I use 7528. And for the front turns you should use 1156A for yellow. At least that's what I do and they work great. And for the 1156 clear use 3497 bulbs they are almost twice as bright but same wattage. They are all legit upgrades for modern day incandescent bulbs. And the clock usually you can use a 1155 in it's place and the only benefit would be 5,000hrs or 10,000 hours on the 1155long life vs 800hrs on the 89.
ditch those points for Pertronix...did that on my 48 Pontiac. Worth the investment :)
Absolutely!!
Pertronix are junk
Your conversion is OK exept 2 little items
a) the red wire of the alt regulator goes to battery positive post, in your setup, the alternator ignores the voltage drop in the charging wire and as the consumption increases, the effective voltage to the battery posts decreases, I suggest you to install a 20 to 50 ohm resistor in parrallel to the charging warning light in the event it burns, OMC uses a diode to prevent after run issue.
b) in your ignition circuit, you should bypass the ballast resistor to start, I've done it using a Bosch relay and using the starter signal wire to trigger the relay
As long you don't abuse the starter, it will not cause issues
the biggest problem is the gauges, the best way is to measure the amperage and build a resistor bank to drop from 12 to 6 volts.
I don't think you can do the same thing with the radio as on the 6 volt system, the ground is positive and on the 12 volt system, the ground is negative
Great info!
Working on a 1954 Chevy Belair this week
Thank you
Thank you
Great video! Starting to toy with my 51 so the visuals are super helpful!
I would love to see you do some cold starts on all of your trucks and cars. You’re so knowledgeable and it would be cool to see the full startup procedure on all of them. I’m new to carbureted engines and could use some tips especially with regards to what to do with the gas pedal during cold starts.
Pull the choke out and start it. Listen as it warms up to know when to start pushing the choke back in. As the engine comes up to temp continue pushing the choke in until it is completely off.
Eric's Projects I don’t have a choke
Excellent video. If you want to run a 120 amp charging system for hi powerd audio/ video or air suspension compressor use a 1985 Chevrolet Caprice 5.7 alternator $90. I wonder if converting a 1953 Lincoln Capri would be the same process.
Ebay has a (CHEVY DELCO ALTERNATOR HARNESS ANTI- FEEDBACK DIODE 10SI 12SI 15SI 27SI wire) which come with both harnesses for $10, in case anyone was interested?
Good to know thanks..
Hey, thanks for the info. So if I add this I should not have to do anything to the line going to the ignition switch right?
great job describing how to do the conversion 6 to 12 volts
Great video, I'm working on a 47 fleetmaster I'm sure that this is going to help. Thanks!
Glad it will help. Thanks
I switched my 48 chevy truck to 12volt. This was a great help!
@@johnallen310 I'm glad it helped
This video was super valuable, i'm currently in the conversion process myself on my RHD 1950 in Western Australia. I did some things quite similar to you. What I also did is get a Kit 11 Accuspark hall effect electronic ignition module to go inside the Delco Remy distributor so no more stuffing around with setting points. I highly recommend the module for smooth ignition. I also replaced my tail, park and plate lamps with automotive LED versions, which make the lights super bright. I've also read that it is worth using a 12V solenoid for the starter.
Glad it was useful. I tried the led lights and I just like the glow of incandescent better. They are still much better than the originals. I am considering the pertronics ignition but that will have to come later.
I fear these kits, I had a bad experience with one of these
I prefer by far using standard automotive parts
I used Chrysler reluctor and pick up coil, GM HEI modules to build electronic ignition on about anything
on small diameter distributors, I search a corresponding model with magnetic pick up coil and I transfer the parts and use a HEI module
I would also suggest a voltage converter to convert the 12v back to 6-7volt for the proper voltage for the fuel guage and gas tank sender to work without burning up. What has been your experience?
That is a lot of work, thanks E your good at explaining great video thanks. cheers
I used to use a 12 volt light bulb on the gauges as a resistor
Good video.... Very complete... Easy to understand
How did you reduce your radio to 6v? Great easy to follow vid. Changing over a 53 Chevy 150 to 12 volt. Using your vid to do this.
Thx again
Hi Eric, Study up on DC to DC converters. I think you will find they are a cheap way to drop the voltage for your dash and a big one should run your 6 volt radio on 6 volts for you. They are fairly cheap and easy to use.
I will have to do that. Thanks!
Classic parts and a couple other parts sites offer a original looking 12 generator.. generators cut out the middle man (single diode rectifier) and produce straight DC current. Modern Alternators have either a single diode or a full bridge rectifier to make the AC into DC. If you’re going for the original look you can get a 12v generator rebuilt. The long one fit my 235 perfectly. The 216 might need a short though.
Would a resistor on the blower motor reduce the voltage enough to slow it down?
What about the negative side of the coil do you just run a wire and ground it off?
the ignition coil for 12 volt you can use a bosch blue coil for a volkswagen beetle they are internally resisted for a points replacement you can use a Pertronix ignitor kit that goes in your distributor as they have the original ignitor if its a non resisted coil you have to use a ballast resistor with thi ignitor l the pertronix ignitor ll the ballast resistor is optional as it works will with internally resisted coils. as they have ignitors that fits various distributors. as the magnet sleeve goes over the points cam. as the ignitor ll is more reliable better for daily drivers. as the ignitor fits in the stock distributor so no aftermarket distributor needed. and you don't need points anymore but save your points for backup.
Great info buddy and thanks for sharing 👍
GREAT VIDEO. EASY TO FOLLOW. I WILL ATTEMPT THE PROCESS. GREAT TEACHER
I have a 1947 Chevy coupe stylemaster I did many up grades to my car 250 straight six with 350 automatic transmission 5on5 lugs disc brakes in the front, electric ignition 12 volt conversion. This car keeps up with modern-day traffic. I made the engine mounts I can put a V8 if I wanted to.
Very nice!
Hi, you are awesome for doing this and showing us how to do it. Would it be the same process for. 1948 Chevy Fleetmaster? It’s a 6 cylinder same as your car. Everything is extra dim. -thank you
Should be very similar if not the same
For blower you can use one from a mid 80s to early 90s sqaurebody suburban or a k10 as well but the suburban one blows a lot faster and just has the normal state terminal. And for everything else use converters from Amazon such as for the radio they are like 10 bucks.
So I can install a lamp and that can act in place of the diode? Great video!
a 3rd alternative for the alternator diode or lamp is a 10 ohm wirewound resistor. charging should be indicated by the ammeter. all 3 work fine.
I think a voltage regulator would've protected certain circuits. I have one on my firewall. I did however have to change my plastic tail light lenses to handle the brighter 12 volt power
I’m converting my 52 Belair Deluxe. What battery did you go with?
I also have a 52, but in the middle of a full frame off restoration. I also have a 41 I'd like to convert as you did with your 52. Would this be the same for my 41 with a 216?
Im wanting to do the same process on a semi truck of similar age with a large 6 cyl gas motor. How does the 10si charge at idle? Does it require revving to charge?
I had a 53 Pontiac back in the 1966. Paid $15. Was only 6 cyl but fast because body had rusted away and engine had built up high compression over the years. Am doing 6 -12 v conversion on 1966 English motorcycle that is POS ground, so (if I keep it Pos ground) do I run the hot ignition wire (neg. one from ign switch) to the resistor and then the Neg. side of the coil rather than the Pos? Is the idea just to resist the input to the coil? Oh, but this bike like many others (Harley, Honda) has the high tension cable going directly from coil to spark plug, the "distributor" (c.b. points) is earlier in the system. So maybe the resistor is just for automobile type where high tension cable runs from coil to distributor and distributor to plugs?
amazing! thank you for being honest and showing everything so well thank you again!
What should a person pay to have a mechanic switch my 1953 Chevy BelAir with the 6 cyl engine from 6 volt to 12 volt? I am disabled and unable to do it myself, besides I have no tools, just wondering if you could tell me what a fair price to do this would be? Thank you, loved your video.
Reach out to generation old school on UA-cam and Facebook. I think he would be able to help you in that area.
Great video!! You said when you changed the coil you had some issues with your points and you said you fixed the issue that it was a ignition issue. Can you reply and tell me what that issue was please I’m having the same issue right now thank you.
If I recall the only issue I had was when o had the extra wire going to the coil. The points can't handle a full 12 volts so running it through the resistor made it all work.
My 52 Styleline doesn't have the extra turn signal bulbs, it's the deluxe model, does that make a difference? Also, it has the 235 engine with the powerglide trans, factory stock. I've been having all kinds of problems lately with spark, the turn signals have never worked, and the brake signals aren't working anymore either.
Seeing someone with basically the same car as me, I'd love to pick your brain about some of the work you've done. I'm going to be watching all your videos!
That car has the 216 with the 3 speed transmission in it. Check your brake switch which is on the firewall for adjustment.
Your coil should receive a full 12 volts on startup and then drop to 7 volts thru the ballast resister when the engine is running. On a cold day you need the extra voltage at coil to start. You probably could achieve this with a relay or use a later starter like a 235 6 cyl. starter if it would fit. They have an R terminal that sends the 12 volts to the coil only on crank.
I own a 1951 Styleline Chevy Deluxe should I follow this as a tutorial or is this not similar enough?
can you upload a video explaining the benefit of 12 volts vs 6 volts? also coould you upload a video where you explain what engine oil to use?
That's what I need
The biggest advantage is availability of electrical parts (lamps, batteries, accessories and other electrical parts), which in most cases are a lot less expensive than the 6V counterparts. Another advantage is improved power delivery to the vehicle electrics, since a 12V accessory will draw half the current of the equivalent 6V part (assuming the same wattage rating). This means less power lost as voltage drop in the vehicle wiring connecting the accessory. And in many cases, the 12V item may draw _less_ than half the current simply from sdvances in the technology (such as LED lamps compared even to the incandescent versions). Still another advantage is greatly improved charging systems. Even the basic alternator shown in this video will easily outperform any generator type charging system, not only providing more power, but also doing so at engine idle, which most generators are incapable of. These are the same reasons cars first went to 12 volts in the mid-50s, then to alternators in the '60s when solid state technology made them practical.
Hi Eric can you help me I've got a 38 Chevy 6 volt stopped charging. Got a good battery, I don't see a voltage regulator anywhere. The original generator Delco Remy has a little square box mounted to it, is that the regulator built on? How do I check this thing ? What should it be putting out I have a volt meter. Thanks
Good video. 2 questions. 1 what ohm resister did you use for the gas gauge? 2 Why not use a self exciting voltage regulator in your alternator? then it only needs one main wire to the battery.
Thanks for taking the time to make a very informative video !
Eric, Just one question Why don't you run a new wire to the accessories rather then patch into a wire that is 70 years old? I'm not saying all the wires but anything in the engine compartment or what goes to the dashboard.
Question , I have a 54' Bel air , switched to 12v Ron Francis harness , changed heater blower to a 12v motor , will the heater control switch ( has coiled resistor wire) in control panel handle the 12 volts?
I would think it would being your just passing amperage through it. I never switched my motor or switch and it handled the 12 volts. I'm not sure how long the motor would have handled it but when I sold the car it was still working.
@@ericsscout thanks very much !
Great instructions! I have a foot pedal starter. Does the DA plug line with the diode still run to the middle post on the ignition switch? My ignition switch does not have an ACC position. Only OFF and ON. Thanks again for the instructions!
Hello Eric. Did you change alternator pulley to fit 5/8 belt?
hey buddy how are you? I have a question for you: Once i make the car 12 volts, where can i find a battery tray for the new battery since the 12 volts battery is going to be bigger than the 6 volts and it wont fit on the 6 volts tray?
I didn't have a problem fitting a 12 volt battery in place of the 6 volt. If you need a new tray though, National Chevy Association or a number of other companies should carry them.
Good evening Erick, I installed an alternator and a 12volt coil and now the car cranks over but will not start . I installed a new fuel pump and fuel lines from the tank to the carb the carb was also rebuilt. Do you think the points could be bad.?
Hi ive got a 38 Chevy with 6v generator im having trouble can you help? Ive got a few questions, thanks.
hey Eric great great video doing the same to my 52 also and using your video as tutorial. 1 question instead of using a light bulb to see if system charging can I tap into the gen light for same result ?
I like the Skyline, there are a couple that look just like it here in Pendleton Oregon, same color even , love the videos, "Drunk driver takes a swing" was great, the drunk made me laugh til I found out he had his kid with him, he got what he deserves. Keep up the vids
can you do a video explaining the main differences or benefits of the 12 volts vs 6 volts?
12 volt items are easier to get at any parts store and you can still keep it original looking. The 6 volt starter LOVES 12 volts. The factory wiring is more than sufficient as 12 volts has half the amperage as 6 volts so there's no need to change wiring unless its bad.
what alternator pulley did you buy? when im placing the order it shows two different sizes of alternator pully
Great instructional Video very helpful
Excellent video, thanks for sharing 😎😎😎
I like wearing my CO,H2s,So2 meters
For the RADIO, you can get a DC to DC converter. to buck the 12-15v to 6v it will output a steady 6v, running or not. for $20 or so, from AMAZON!
Jumped ahead so I'm not sure if you mentioned a voltage reducer for the gas gauge.
Im curious, Is your starter still working? I hear that the 6 volt starter spins to fast and will self destruct under 12 volt power
Starter loved the 12 volts.
I converted to 12 volts on my 48 chevy pickup 2 years ago. 6 volt starter still works fine.
Your 1952 Chevy happens to have the Powerglide automatic transmission. How would you change out the pilot light bulb on the selector?
Ray Fridle
hey eric is this the same type of alternator/compressor belt you are using ? New Classical Style V Belt B41 B-41 5L440 5/8" x 44 40 degree angle ,.43 " high by .66" wide ?
I also have a 52 but ragtop and thanks for awesome info you missed the licence plate one ??
Thanks for the great video, Eric. This kind of tutorial info really helps when you're tackling a project like this for the first time (the second time is ALWAYS much easier/faster). I am curious about the impedance value of the resistors you used. Looks like the ballast resistor (for the ignition) that I see on line are 1.4 to 1.6 ohms. Is that what you used? Also, I would also like to know what value resistor you used for the gas gauge. Thanks for the great video, Brother! -Lee
I couldn't yell you values of the resistors as I don't know exactly what they are. A quick search should solve that though. The ballast resistor for the coil is a stock 60's-80's dodge vehicle (any of them work) and the gas gauge is one that I bought from a shop called Bow Tie Bits. Hopes this helps and thank you.
Did you get a wide pulley for the alt.? A modern alt. on my "37 Olds won't work because of different belt sizes..and shaft sizes are different.
I swapped the pully for the stock one off of the generator.
Eric, I have a question? 3:26-4:07 when you discuss removal of Regulator and splicing the old Generator 10-gauge wire to the 10-gauge wire that feeds the AMP meter is there any concerns of frying the old Dash AMP meter? Will the battery charge properly? Did you have to make any modifications to the old AMP meter gauge/wiring such as removing it from the electrical circuit, bypassing or resplice any of the wires aroundthe at the AMP Meter? And will it work fine without any adverse issues such as blow-up the AMP meter? I know that for the other instrumentational cluster gauges to work a voltage reducer or resistor will need to be added to drop from 12-6volts to prevent from blowing the dash gauges. I hope this question finds your way and makes sense?
Raul Garcia the amp meter needs no changes. It just tells you how many amps the alternator is putting out whether it's charging or not.
Eric's Projects thank you sir!
I have a '53 I had a friend who was a mechanic convert for me some years ago. Well my problem is a I recently got a new battery to star it up after it sitting for a while. I found a turning signal clicking away when I climbed in( showed the battery was hooked up). When I hit the starter switch it just went "click " and that as it . Now nothing comes on.. What should I check and test?
you can buy the flat metal steel at home depot 2 or 4 ft long and make all your brackets cheap for alternator
What is the olmage rating of those resisters used on the various circuits?
Interesting that the car has separate parking/turn signals. It didn't leave the factory that way.
You are correct. Turn signals were added later. They are glass lenses also which is kinda cool.
very good video I thought those crews were called bow ties
Eric - i noticed you left the old wiring. What are your thoughts about leaving the wiring and not updating it? Is there a fire hazard when converting from a 6 to 12 volt system?
My wiring was in good shape and the 6 volt wiring has a higher amp rating than the 12 volt does. As long as your 6 volt wiring is still good it will handle the 12 volts with less amperage no problem.
What signs do you look for when determining whether it is good or not? I have a ‘46 Power Wagon from OK and I think the dirt protected the wiring more than anything.
I've watched your video about 10 over the past year and I am finally going to get started. You mentioned buying a DA plug for the alternator without a resistor but making sure to add a 1 amp 50w diode to save money. Is this correct or should I add a resistor instead of a diode?
You need a diode
awesome video! very informative!
Awesome detailed video thank you.
Would that procedure work with a 1954 cadillac I swapped the engine with a 350 Chevy
Awesome sir......thankyou for some good info.
Very informative. Thank you.
when you did the 6 volt to 12 volt conversion did you use a Voltage Reducer Regulator for your gages?
also wen are you going to put the light bulbs list
Only a regulator to the fuel gauge. I didn't end up getting a list together before I sold the car. I do remember several bulbs were the 1156 though. Tail lights, parking lights, etc. Headlights were a standard 7 inch round head light. If you take your dash light bulb to the parts store they should be able to cross reference it pretty easily.
Do you know of a supplier of parts for these old cars, I hot old trucks handled, I have a few old chevy trucks, 50_ 55, 57, 58 , 63, 68GMC, 82chevy,
I know you mentioned the turn signal was still operational after 12volt conversion, and you'd thought the bulb would eventually blow but have you had any issues with your thermal flasher cylinder as well?
Thx,
Raul Garcia I did put a 12 volt flasher relay in.
I've done everything you explained on the video, I have to get a belt today to finish up. I now see that you put a 12v flasher relay in, can you explain where that is and how it went in. I'm hoping to finish up tonight.
I just swapped it in directly in place of the 6 volt one that hangs under the dash.
Thank you! I appreciate your video greatly.
Great video, I have a 54 Chevy pickup and was wondering about the headlight switch so looks like the stock switch will work fine. Thanks
Yep, it will work no problem. it now has half the amperage going through it also.
Shantel Loyning
great video. Do you find that the Ballast resister gets super hot while car is running ?
I have never temp checked it or put my hand on it. I know I can drive it all day with no issues though. The ballast resistor is in a place that gets alot of airflow also.
What would be the difference if using a 1 wire alternator? I wired mine just liike the video and something is draining my battery.
What did you find out?
I have a 53 chevy im trying to get the fuel gauge to work ..could u possible tell me the number off the side of that resistor so I know what to get ..thanks
Hello, the guys that is doing the changeover from 6 to 12 volts in my 1950 tells me that he doesn’t need to install a voltage reducer for the fuel pump and that nothing will happen if he hooks up the 12 volts leaving everything the same as it was before with the 6 volts. What do you think of that?
I believe the 12 volts will make it read inaccurately at best. It's a resistance reading from the sending unit in the tank. It very well could burn out the guage also, like a light bulb.
@@ericsscout is what’s your advise? To leave it without the voltage reducer? Also is the fuel pump on the cars mechanical? In the last video I posted, I showed how he did the conversion. I would appreciate if you look at and tell me what you think. The video is in Spanish.... I’m Cuban American.
@@GenerationOldschoolEspañol beautiful car and I loved seeing the inside of his shop. Your fuel pump is still mechanical so no changes there. If it were me I would install it as it's cheap insurance for the gauge. Rebuilds on those are kind of expensive.
@@ericsscout my gas gauge hasn’t worked since I bought the car. So I shouldn’t worry about the voltage reducer unless I fix it? Also to fix that gauge, I would need to replace the sending unit or I need to replace the whole gauge assembly?
@@GenerationOldschoolEspañol ot would depend on which one is bad. I would bet the sending unit is bad. It's a resistance measurement based on how far up or down the float is. You could pull the siding unit and check it with an ohm meter and that would tell you if its working or not. I would guess ots bad though being 70 years old. Check the wire on top of it first for a clean and tight fit.