I have a 72 Type 1 Beetle which still has the original generator (been in my family since 1972, I've owned it since 1981). I've waited my whole life to have that explained to me in a way I could understand. Thank you! I don't think I will be replacing that generator with another rebuilt one again
I know you have been and will continue to get praise for this video. All this electrical stuff is beyond me.watching your video was way better than any one I've seen. I like that you keep it simple. So will everyone else. There are folks that know a lot but can't teach it. You can do both. Thanks!
Great video, thank you. BUT you have got the battery connected the wrong way around. Should be negative to ground! There should also be a fuse rated just above the maximum charge current of the alternator, in the battery line for safety. That way your wiring wont burn if a diode in the alternator goes short circuit! Thanks again.
Your description and explanation are great, and will definitely help me with my generator to ONE wire alternator conversion on my 64 Ford Galaxie. One thing I did notice and made me go Hmmmm, was the battery in your illustration shows the + positive terminal going to ground and the - negative terminal attaching to the starter solenoid. That's got to be just an oops. Thanks for making the video!!
I love your vids, everytime I see a video posted by Moss I know I'm gonna learn something. Clear and straightforward teaching. Keep Up the great work and keep em coming.
Ok, I figured out why there might be some thumbs down: The schematic drawings all show the battery having a positive "+" to ground and show the negative "-" as connected to the starter solenoid. So the absolute clearest alternator explanation on UA-cam has a fairly important but simple mistake that would require a re-shoot of at least the video portion with the corrected schematic drawings. Once that is done, this video will be perfect!
I LOVE THE SIMPLICITY OF YOUR VIDEOS!!!! (I hate videos that first explain for ten minutes what the video is going to be about which takes half of the video so, thank you for jumping right in).
@Moss Motors, Ltd. Are you sure that the early generators were AC? My money says they were DC! They had regulators yes, but they didn't have diodes to convert from AC to DC. Am I wrong?
This was perfect, excellent teaching! I put a one wire alternator in my 64 1/2 mustang (only year Mustangs came with generator). Instructions said I could leave the voltage regulator in place or bypass. The alternator is 'special' meaning it still looks like a generator for nostalgia detailing. I left the voltage regulator in place (for looks and wiring connected as-is, BAT, FLD, ARM) and the charging system would be finicky -meaning not charge most of the time while driving, only 3.0 volt output. I figured the alternator would not excite at low or higher rpm's and start charging the system. Inner-web research came up with this lesson. So I gutted the voltage regulator and placed the terminals (BAT FLD ARM) in series. Now I still have all the looks of a generator under the hood -but the benefits of an alternator. Including x2 the amps (gen @ 25-30 amp vs ALT 65 amp idle). However, one problem, the OIL and GEN light stay on constantly without the key or ignition turned on. GRRR! Does MOSS have a lesson for this too?
you prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know a way to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Cairo Mitchell thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thank you! Most well done and thoroughly informative video I have seen on UA-cam. I want to watch all your videos just to glean some knowledge from them. Please please keep it up.
Hi I have mentioned you in one of my videos and added a link to this video. I hope you don’t mind if you do let me know and I will take it down. It’s a great exploration to why the indicators don’t work. Cheer
Firstly the output of the alternator will be far bigger than the dynamo could manage, typically 70amp versus 20amp. check that you wiring can handle the potential max output of the alternator. Secondly, the ammeter cables will have to be swapped over or the gauge will read backwards. If you have a radio fitted it will have to be changed as it will be for pos earth, some early sets had a switch to swop the polarity so check yours. Any thing that has an electric motor, windows, seat adjusters, radio ariel etc you will have to swap the cables at the motor. Otherwise an excellent video production. Liked
Very good simple to follow instructions 👍, my question is in the last page diagram u put up the + terminal of the battery is showing going to ground.. And the - going to the starter solenoid.. So excuse my lack of knowledge.. But where does the circuit get the + (live) from?
Many thanks for the explanation. I know that somewhere in that system there has to be a fuse board. With your explanation I would imagine that the fuse fix between the alternator and the systems being powered ?
Excellent well explained, but could I ask will this be ok to change the positive earth on my tractor to negative earth, now these tractors have simple wiring but me and wiring are not mates, give me a spanner and nuts and bolts any day,Will I need to change the ammeter and oil pressure gauge and thanks for sharing it was well put across.
I understand you were saying except at the end...Positive ground, negative ground. You said alternators run on a negative ground circuit, but the schematic shows a positive ground on the battery,,. or maybe I misunderstand what pos. neg. ground means?
I really like this series of videos but, sadly they are few and far beetween. It's like I'm back in school again but, this time around I don't mind it.
When converting from positive earth to negative earth the ammeter wiring will have to swapped around and the power to the coil will also have to be swapped around.
excellant video. I have just fitted this conversion to my tractor. made it to negative earth and so on but i have a problem with the coil ( swaped the LT wires around as said with instructoins) its getting very hot and the engine will not start but leave the coil to cool down it starts straight and will run for hours with no problem but once switched off it will not start (coil very hot). The question is have i done something wrong or is the coil bad? I am a mechanic but we are allways learning.
Im converting my 1965 cj5 kaiser jeep to a altanator weve got it mounted and the internle voltage regulater is hooked to the lamp postand another terminal of the voltage regulator to a ground but its still not charging... It will fire up and run but it doesnt charge.... My starter selinoid is a 1 prong set up with one for the battery and another for the switch and another with a copper arm to the starter (geussing a ground).....my question is do i need to get a selinoid that is two prong(i and s),....one comming from battery, two coming from starter, one coming from ignition?
Great explanation. So I want to completely gut the old external regulator of it’s coils etc and use the terminal connections surrounding the regulator to fasten my new alternator leads using the old wire harness for aesthetics. The old voltage regulator is a Bosch 1965 and the new alternator is a Delco 10SI. I am going to add a 10 gauge wire inside the voltage regulator soldered in place to connect the D+ and B+ terminals so I can then fasten the BAT lead from the alternator to the D+ and supply power to accessories and charge the battery. All of the terminal connections are external on the regulator using machined screws to fasten. I want to use the DF terminal on the old regulator to fasten the field wire from the alternator to the amp light wire. Can I use the old terminal? I checked with a multi meter and the terminal is grounded but will that matter for the field to amp light wiring? I know this is an old posting but really hope you respond to questions like this. Thanks, Michael
what becomes of the ammeter if it maxes out at 30 amps with the generator and the new alternator is over 80 amps? Bypass It? replace it with a higher amp scale ammeter?
This video is excellent, but I have noticed one thing wrong with the last presentation slide in that, the battery is shown as positive earth and should now be negative on completion of the conversion ??
I updated to a Ford 3G alternator in my 1970 Ford F-100 and it works well. However I have not been able to get the amp gauge to work with this setup. I have read that if a 560 ohm resistor is installed in the "switch on" lead to the alternator then the amp gauge will work. I need to know how big the wattage of such a resistor needs to be. No one seems to say what size when describing this procedure. Help with this would appreciated.
Thanks so much, nicely done. My external regulator has a "W" terminal. Any idea what do with that terminal? In your diagram there is a wire labeled 'W". What is the contaminant it is feeding? Also: Should there be a signal from the "F" terminal of the regulator to the field terminal on the generator itself? 12 volts maybe to excite the field wingdings to create the magnet effect? Thanks again... +
I've got a problem with this. All alternators I'm finding have 1 wire or 3 terminals not 2 as you're showing. I haven't found any alternators for sale with only 2 terminals. Do some alternators only have 2 terminals or do they all have either 1 or 3? On youtube explanations on replacing generators with alternators, some diagrams show terminal 1 being the field terminal but other diagrams show terminal 2 being the field. Which is it?
If you have an "older" vehicle with LUCAS electrics ....THIS IS A "MUST" CONVERSION. When I bought my older "BRITISH" care years ago, it came with a box of "extras" ...AKA failed components. There were THREE voltage regulators in it ....and the one in the car was giving problems ...failing to provide charging to the battery ....intermittently. A very quick Wikipedia search of LUCAS revealed a very lengthy history beginning 1860 in Birmingham, England. Unfortunately, this Wikipedia rendition is heavily scripted/focussed on UNIONS and the COMMUNIST party. Life was different back then. The article also summarizes the evolution of the company and the resulting many products ...related electrically. ------ BUT ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ABOUT THE POOR QUALITY WHICH IS THE COMPANY'S CLAIM TO FAME TODAY.
Positive ground? Though he mentions positive ground and converting to negative ground, the last time I dealt with a positive ground vehicle was my 1931 Desoto. I've also heard of having to place a diode in line with the output wire to prevent battery discharge during times the vehicle is not running? Any truth to that?
Actually the (rectifier) diode bank on that particular type of alternator has nine diodes not six, it has three main positive three negative and three exciter diodes to excite the warning light.
Two things that was not adressed here, but first the thing that is not true: An alternator shall have negative ground. No, there are made alternator with positive ground, but they are rare. Next, he did not tell that the max current from an alternator are far bigger than max current from a generator. That is why you also should see to that the range of the ampmeter are within compared to the max current of the alternator. For the same reason you should also verify the thickness of the cables between the alternator and the battery. These things together are the reason for my thumb down.
Hello my friend, i could use some help. I have a Mercury Monterey custom 1962, this vehicle has a generator with a regulator with exterior voltage already integrated. I'm trying to put an alternator instead of a generator. My question is how can I connect the alternator and eliminate the use of the regulator part. I was watching a video that you posted where you explain the different connections. This regulator has the same connections AR, FL, and BAT. This alternator with 3 exits B , 1 and 2 exits how can I connect it ?. Hopefully you can help me.
Hello there I am planning on converting my 49 ford to 12 volt but I am kind of stuck...:( I would like to try and keep my gauges all stock what could I to do so? Thank you and on yoy DIY video I don't believe I have a warning light on mine just the amperage meter .. any information would sure help me build my project thanks
They do NOT both make AC. The generator will produce DC (one directional current) since it obviously uses a commutator with brushes. It may make DC with waveforms similar to AC due to the 360° rotational motion but it is still in one direction and is thus DC. The multiple windings in the generator smooth the average DC current but it will still have some "ripple" to it. If an automotive generator produced AC then it would still need the equivalent of diodes to convert its output to DC. The generator on the left does not make AC.
Geat video, thanks, spot on. Question: converting from positive ground to negative ground, online forums say "don't worry about the starter motor"- whatever that means. Surely, if one changes the polarity of the vehicle frame it will try to turn the starter motor the wrong way? Can anyone enlighten me on this? (my Vehicle = Fordson Major Tractor too old to have relays). Cheers :)
I think this was a great video, but I have to admit seeing only the Hands was a little bit odd, dare I say kind of creepy? lol It is an excellent video however, I just think seeing the speakers face is important in almost any video. #protip
This hast to be the best video I've ever seen. So easily explained without fluff or fuss. Thank you for this amazing production.
Undoubtedly the best explanation of the differences and the wiring process for fitting an alternator.
This is one of the best, most informative how-to videos I've ever seen. And I do how-to videos!! Thank you!
Everyone has said it all. Brilliantly clear brilliantly executed I wish all utube videos were like this
Best instructions on the internet
Thank you for making an easy to understand explanation of how both systems are built and work. Helped me out a lot.
I have a 72 Type 1 Beetle which still has the original generator (been in my family since 1972, I've owned it since 1981). I've waited my whole life to have that explained to me in a way I could understand. Thank you! I don't think I will be replacing that generator with another rebuilt one again
Very impressive & clear explanation , love this video , great effort sir, thanks.
Nice job! I am an electrical engineer and this still taught me useful info. Thank you!👍
I know you have been and will continue to get praise for this video. All this electrical stuff is beyond me.watching your video was way better than any one I've seen. I like that you keep it simple. So will everyone else. There are folks that know a lot but can't teach it. You can do both. Thanks!
i have a lot of people try to explain and failed at it you did a great deal in explaining it good job a+
Great video, thank you. BUT you have got the battery connected the wrong way around. Should be negative to ground! There should also be a fuse rated just above the maximum charge current of the alternator, in the battery line for safety. That way your wiring wont burn if a diode in the alternator goes short circuit! Thanks again.
Great catch
Your description and explanation are great, and will definitely help me with my generator to ONE wire alternator conversion on my 64 Ford Galaxie. One thing I did notice and made me go Hmmmm, was the battery in your illustration shows the + positive terminal going to ground and the - negative terminal attaching to the starter solenoid. That's got to be just an oops. Thanks for making the video!!
At one time, some cars had positive ground. Negative ground has become universal today.
I love your vids, everytime I see a video posted by Moss I know I'm gonna learn something. Clear and straightforward teaching. Keep Up the great work and keep em coming.
Moss team: A really excellent, concise and practical explanation, many thanks for this. I'm now inspired to convert to an alternator in my TR3A.
Ok, I figured out why there might be some thumbs down:
The schematic drawings all show the battery having a positive "+" to ground and show the negative "-" as connected to the starter solenoid.
So the absolute clearest alternator explanation on UA-cam has a fairly important but simple mistake that would require a re-shoot of at least the video portion with the corrected schematic drawings.
Once that is done, this video will be perfect!
I thought that it was just me who noticed the battery polarity.
Awesome video! Exactly what I was looking for. Easy to follow great information! '63 Ford Econoline with a failing generator, you helped so much!
Doing the same for my 62 Econo!
I LOVE THE SIMPLICITY OF YOUR VIDEOS!!!! (I hate videos that first explain for ten minutes what the video is going to be about which takes half of the video so, thank you for jumping right in).
@Moss Motors, Ltd. Are you sure that the early generators were AC? My money says they were DC! They had regulators yes, but they didn't have diodes to convert from AC to DC. Am I wrong?
Just done this to my'56 GMC truck, worked a treat, thanks for the great video.
Dang,,, good info, have to save this one into my playlist.
Excellent! Thank you for the easy-to-understand explanation.
Thank you. You explained quite a lot to me in a short time.
thanks great info , 48 dodge were positive ground -and you answered my concern -
This was perfect, excellent teaching!
I put a one wire alternator in my 64 1/2 mustang (only year Mustangs came with generator). Instructions said I could leave the voltage regulator in place or bypass. The alternator is 'special' meaning it still looks like a generator for nostalgia detailing. I left the voltage regulator in place (for looks and wiring connected as-is, BAT, FLD, ARM) and the charging system would be finicky -meaning not charge most of the time while driving, only 3.0 volt output. I figured the alternator would not excite at low or higher rpm's and start charging the system. Inner-web research came up with this lesson. So I gutted the voltage regulator and placed the terminals (BAT FLD ARM) in series. Now I still have all the looks of a generator under the hood -but the benefits of an alternator. Including x2 the amps (gen @ 25-30 amp vs ALT 65 amp idle). However, one problem, the OIL and GEN light stay on constantly without the key or ignition turned on. GRRR! Does MOSS have a lesson for this too?
Excellent instructional video. Thank you.
very nice narration and good competent explanation
Great video. Well delivered and just what I needed to convert from an alternator with ext regulator to one with built in.
you prolly dont give a damn but does any of you know a way to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can give me.
@Anders Conner Instablaster :)
@Cairo Mitchell thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Cairo Mitchell it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much, you really help me out!
@Anders Conner You are welcome :)
it's super clear !!!
there is some variances with manufacturers but the general wiring is the same
Fantastic ! Clear and comprehensive. Thank you!
Thank you! Most well done and thoroughly informative video I have seen on UA-cam. I want to watch all your videos just to glean some knowledge from them. Please please keep it up.
Hi I have mentioned you in one of my videos and added a link to this video. I hope you don’t mind if you do let me know and I will take it down. It’s a great exploration to why the indicators don’t work. Cheer
I love your voice. Very clear.
Thank you for this insightful video
Excellent explanation & narration.
Thank you for your GREAT tutorial!!
very well explained, thank you for sharing
Awesome video. Well done!
I've been wanting to know that for a long time he spelled it out to the T thank you
simple and instructive - excellent
Big help, i’ll be fitting an alternator to my ford zephyr mk1 and removing the control box, Same wiring as in your diagram
I had a Triumph Herald that was positive ground.
The premise was that the electrons flowing through the body would help to keep the car rust free
Firstly the output of the alternator will be far bigger than the dynamo could manage, typically 70amp versus 20amp. check that you wiring can handle the potential max output of the alternator. Secondly, the ammeter cables will have to be swapped over or the gauge will read backwards. If you have a radio fitted it will have to be changed as it will be for pos earth, some early sets had a switch to swop the polarity so check yours. Any thing that has an electric motor, windows, seat adjusters, radio ariel etc you will have to swap the cables at the motor. Otherwise an excellent video production. Liked
Very good simple to follow instructions 👍, my question is in the last page diagram u put up the + terminal of the battery is showing going to ground.. And the - going to the starter solenoid.. So excuse my lack of knowledge.. But where does the circuit get the + (live) from?
Great observation, I noticed it to
so very well described
Thanks for saving me so much time.
Many thanks for the explanation. I know that somewhere in that system there has to be a fuse board. With your explanation I would imagine that the fuse fix between the alternator and the systems being powered ?
Excellent well explained, but could I ask will this be ok to change the positive earth on my tractor to negative earth, now these tractors have simple wiring but me and wiring are not mates, give me a spanner and nuts and bolts any day,Will I need to change the ammeter and oil pressure gauge and thanks for sharing it was well put across.
awesome teaching style, I love it.
I understand you were saying except at the end...Positive ground, negative ground. You said alternators run on a negative ground circuit, but the schematic shows a positive ground on the battery,,. or maybe I misunderstand what pos. neg. ground means?
Thank you, it is very clear and nicely explained
I have a 62 ford with a 3 wire external voltage regulator. Any help on how to wire when converting to an alternator?
I really like this series of videos but, sadly they are few and far beetween. It's like I'm back in school again but, this time around I don't mind it.
Very helpful video! Thank you.
wow, this really help full to do a conversion plus I know how each wire functions
When converting from positive earth to negative earth the ammeter wiring will have to swapped around and the power to the coil will also have to be swapped around.
Good you have added instrction to video to change polarity of battery
excellant video. I have just fitted this conversion to my tractor. made it to negative earth and so on but i have a problem with the coil ( swaped the LT wires around as said with instructoins) its getting very hot and the engine will not start but leave the coil to cool down it starts straight and will run for hours with no problem but once switched off it will not start (coil very hot). The question is have i done something wrong or is the coil bad? I am a mechanic but we are allways learning.
Awesome 👍
Im converting my 1965 cj5 kaiser jeep to a altanator weve got it mounted and the internle voltage regulater is hooked to the lamp postand another terminal of the voltage regulator to a ground but its still not charging... It will fire up and run but it doesnt charge.... My starter selinoid is a 1 prong set up with one for the battery and another for the switch and another with a copper arm to the starter (geussing a ground).....my question is do i need to get a selinoid that is two prong(i and s),....one comming from battery, two coming from starter, one coming from ignition?
Great explanation. So I want to completely gut the old external regulator of it’s coils etc and use the terminal connections surrounding the regulator to fasten my new alternator leads using the old wire harness for aesthetics. The old voltage regulator is a Bosch 1965 and the new alternator is a Delco 10SI. I am going to add a 10 gauge wire inside the voltage regulator soldered in place to connect the D+ and B+ terminals so I can then fasten the BAT lead from the alternator to the D+ and supply power to accessories and charge the battery. All of the terminal connections are external on the regulator using machined screws to fasten. I want to use the DF terminal on the old regulator to fasten the field wire from the alternator to the amp light wire. Can I use the old terminal? I checked with a multi meter and the terminal is grounded but will that matter for the field to amp light wiring? I know this is an old posting but really hope you respond to questions like this. Thanks, Michael
what becomes of the ammeter if it maxes out at 30 amps with the generator and the new alternator is over 80 amps? Bypass It? replace it with a higher amp scale ammeter?
excellent - however - the third graphic with the NEW ALTERNATOR in situ - still shows the BATTERY as a POSITIVE to Earth -
thank you so much, I have a 27' Willys Knight
This video is excellent, but I have noticed one thing wrong with the last presentation slide in that, the battery is shown as positive earth and should now be negative on completion of the conversion ??
It is wrong
We have sound! The 4 part series on adjusting the regulator lost sound
Very clear, awesome.
excellent video! very very good description. thank you
I updated to a Ford 3G alternator in my 1970 Ford F-100 and it works well. However I have not been able to get the amp gauge to work with this setup. I have read that if a 560 ohm resistor is installed in the "switch on" lead to the alternator then the amp gauge will work. I need to know how big the wattage of such a resistor needs to be. No one seems to say what size when describing this procedure. Help with this would appreciated.
Fantastic explanation - great work :-)
Thanks so much, nicely done.
My external regulator has a "W" terminal. Any idea what do with that terminal? In your diagram there is a wire labeled 'W". What is the contaminant it is feeding?
Also: Should there be a signal from the "F" terminal of the regulator to the field terminal on the generator itself? 12 volts maybe to excite the field wingdings to create the magnet effect?
Thanks again...
+
Perfect explanation...
Great job - many thanks
Fantastic video, by the way.
Do you have a video on how to wire an alternator to a windmill
Thank you for good demo
I've got a problem with this. All alternators I'm finding have 1 wire or 3 terminals not 2 as you're showing. I haven't found any alternators for sale with only 2 terminals. Do some alternators only have 2 terminals or do they all have either 1 or 3? On youtube explanations on replacing generators with alternators, some diagrams show terminal 1 being the field terminal but other diagrams show terminal 2 being the field. Which is it?
If you have an "older" vehicle with LUCAS electrics ....THIS IS A "MUST" CONVERSION. When I bought my older "BRITISH" care years ago, it came with a box of "extras" ...AKA failed components. There were THREE voltage regulators in it ....and the one in the car was giving problems ...failing to provide charging to the battery ....intermittently.
A very quick Wikipedia search of LUCAS revealed a very lengthy history beginning 1860 in Birmingham, England. Unfortunately, this Wikipedia rendition is heavily scripted/focussed on UNIONS and the COMMUNIST party. Life was different back then.
The article also summarizes the evolution of the company and the resulting many products ...related electrically. ------ BUT ABSOLUTELY NOTHING ABOUT THE POOR QUALITY WHICH IS THE COMPANY'S CLAIM TO FAME TODAY.
Kudos to you very good video. Can you let me know what program you used to make your diagrams?
Thanks.
Positive ground? Though he mentions positive ground and converting to negative ground, the last time I dealt with a positive ground vehicle was my 1931 Desoto. I've also heard of having to place a diode in line with the output wire to prevent battery discharge during times the vehicle is not running? Any truth to that?
Why not use a brushless motor as both the generator and the starter? All you need is a proper ESC. Someone please explain.
Awesome channel.
Great video!! Thank you.
Hi i have a Wolseley 1500 positive earth i would like to convert to negitive earth can you explain how to do this Thank you. John.
Actually the (rectifier) diode bank on that particular type of alternator has nine diodes not six, it has three main positive three negative and three exciter diodes to excite the warning light.
Can you tell me how to get my gas gauge to work on a 1953 Willy's Jeep after converting it to 12 volt everything else is good
Two things that was not adressed here, but first the thing that is not true: An alternator shall have negative ground. No, there are made alternator with positive ground, but they are rare. Next, he did not tell that the max current from an alternator are far bigger than max current from a generator. That is why you also should see to that the range of the ampmeter are within compared to the max current of the alternator. For the same reason you should also verify the thickness of the cables between the alternator and the battery. These things together are the reason for my thumb down.
Hello my friend, i could use some help. I have a Mercury Monterey custom 1962, this vehicle has a generator with a regulator with exterior voltage already integrated. I'm trying to put an alternator instead of a generator. My question is how can I connect the alternator and eliminate the use of the regulator part. I was watching a video that you posted where you explain the different connections. This regulator has the same connections AR, FL, and BAT. This alternator with 3 exits B , 1 and 2 exits how can I connect it ?. Hopefully you can help me.
Perfect
Battery is still showing as positive ground.... Probably worth making a note that the battery needs to have its connections reversed.
Hello there I am planning on converting my 49 ford to 12 volt but I am kind of stuck...:(
I would like to try and keep my gauges all stock what could I to do so? Thank you and on yoy DIY video I don't believe I have a warning light on mine just the amperage meter .. any information would sure help me build my project thanks
Very nice video. Simple to follow. Subscribed I am. Thanks
Does anyone gut the regulator box and connect as you described inside the cover?
brilliant thanks
They do NOT both make AC. The generator will produce DC (one directional current) since it obviously uses a commutator with brushes. It may make DC with waveforms similar to AC due to the 360° rotational motion but it is still in one direction and is thus DC. The multiple windings in the generator smooth the average DC current but it will still have some "ripple" to it. If an automotive generator produced AC then it would still need the equivalent of diodes to convert its output to DC. The generator on the left does not make AC.
Great video! Does anyone have a good help for doing this same job but with a one-wire alternator?
Geat video, thanks, spot on. Question: converting from positive ground to negative ground, online forums say "don't worry about the starter motor"- whatever that means. Surely, if one changes the polarity of the vehicle frame it will try to turn the starter motor the wrong way? Can anyone enlighten me on this? (my Vehicle = Fordson Major Tractor too old to have relays). Cheers :)
no - I've done 2 of these - it has no effect on the starter motor
I think this was a great video, but I have to admit seeing only the Hands was a little bit odd, dare I say kind of creepy? lol
It is an excellent video however, I just think seeing the speakers face is important in almost any video.
#protip
What if im using a external regulated alternator?
Very impressive, but I have a problem in understanding how I'm gonna have my emperor gauge work