'67 C20 Update/Compilation (Part 1) - Product Opinions
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2024
- A few products I used during this project so far and my opinion on how they performed for me.
Repairing an exhaust leak, rebuilding the carburetor and detailing the engine compartment. Then adding power steering and power brakes.
Original Missouri farm truck that will be my other daily driver. Plan is for stock appearing one piece steel wheels, doll up the interior, rocker/cab corners and top it off with a Tremec TKX 2.87 1st and 0.68 5th. That paired with the 4.56 rear end and powered by the bulletproof 250 inline 6 should make a pretty good going to town truck slash hauler. Stay tuned!
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I got two c10s 68 and a 70 love those trucks
I would like to find a clean original 4x4! That has been tough. These are good old trucks. Thanks for watching!
@@smalltownlivin1828 I really got my eyes opened a few weeks ago.. Brent from "Halfass Kustoms" is building a Napco style I think he calls it a fake or something... He found a decent cab from the fifties... I am guessing a 55 model and this is the sweet news... a frame from the fifties is the absolute same width as a squarebody frame... both are thirty four inches... You would think they are different but only difference is the height of the mount is like two inches which is easy enough to just add two inches the front cab mounts, back of cab is almost spot on, and the ones under the radiator core support just need a little shortening. He just used pieces from one to the other and bingo, its on the frame and looking sweet. You do have to switch the steering column for a newer one as the square body frames have the steering up front. Personally, I find that a plus to get rid of the older style.. and wind up with power steering. The finding a good 4X4 frame from the fifties is teeth for chickens. This would give you your fifties cabin, and a host of different style as in short or long, two wheel or four wheel drive and then engines are also a great thing.I am into a turbo six cylinder thing or idea. Couldn't hardly believe the dyno results on a six were over five hundred horse to rear wheels on a 235 six engine by just doing a turbo. Even better is the engine doesn't need special pistons or a high dollar cam .. Power nation did one on their show, actually a couple as they did a chevy and then the 300 six ford. Both had over five hundred horses, and likewise torque ratings.
Good video . Thanks for the comment Morgan Adair , appreciate your experience and knowledge .
You are a good person Odell! You keep me motivated. Take care! Eric
Patience is a Virtue. Rome wasn’t built in a day . Enjoy and learn during this restoration.
@@odelldickey2218 Great advice! I'm working on the patience.
I hope I don't come off as a Debbie Downer, but those old manifolds were designed with the thought of preheating the carburetor fuel when engine is still cold... new, they worked okayish. I say that cause when I would get one in my shop... it was this thermal flipper device, name eludes me at the moment, it would be frozen in the cold or start position, and the fellow would have all sorts of problems. At first, I just knocked them out an that wasn't really a good idea as they had not got the idea of using a electric choke system that did pull off quick enough, so they would flood out or stumble so bad it was a wonder it didn't knock the u-joints out jerking. If your going to keep this rig, I would bolt this stuff loosely together an store it for a possible new owner down the road. I would go aftermarket on the intake and the exhaust, as they both improve the performance, improve mileage greatly, and quit giving you any troubles with the driving. I don't get the idea that you enjoy a trifle louder exhaust as in low restriction exhausts or dual exhaust. I had a system that gave the fellow who's rig I put it on, many years ago ... it was a two barrel carburetor.. it ran on the first barrel just like a four barrel system, you mashed it to the floor or went over sixty, (adjustable) then the second barrel kicked in like a passing gear. It really did work very well. The pickup had a standard trans on the tree but it also had 3.54 gears and it was so low, was just hard to take off up hills unless slipping the clutch a bit. All that said, his little truck averaged over fifteen on hard driving an if you tried got a full twenty miles to the gallon. Since finding a carburetor like that would be a challenge, its your call as to a bit of performance, or a squeeze the lemon juice tight, good mileage and suffer in the slow lane. Headers are a proven good thing if you buy a good one. Cheap burn out quicker than a date with your sister. Since everything is higher priced than woodpeckers nests... a system with stainless metals for exhaust, a aluminum manifold, and a real decent carb... probably north of five hundred dollars which would take a bit to save in gas for the investment. I see a lot of truck here, its over fifty years of age an looks respectable enough to invest in a good system because it is going to last a good twenty more on the highway. Before I forget, do not put that rig back together with those old freeze plugs! They are ninety nine percent rusted out on the backsides an will fail when your going down the road. I don't worry about any of the others on the back of the block or in front around the water pump but those around the exhaust side feel the heat from years of travel an hot heat radiated back towards them is my thinking.... just a guess as to short life spans on them. At least take a sharp punch and tap on it near the bottoms of those on the side there and see if they even give a touch... if they dent easy, they are just a few miles of failure away. Now if all that said about the manifold, at least plane the deck so it does have a flat matting surface for the gaskets. The exhaust bolts in the header are not ever going to come out without breaking a ear or some kind of bad day thing... best scenario is of course heat, or whatever to prove me wrong, and they do come out, so new can go back but that said again, cut them off, drill a hole for a nut an bolt design of sorts as the nut is going to be on a angle of sort an not really look good. Of course you could use the grinder cut off wheel and smooth it out to a more desirable flat spot for a nut plus take some off of the nut so it does fit down right. I don't even suggest any welding or tapping it out for threads unless you found a machine shop who is up to this challenge. I have, before I forget, heard a lot about that cement stripper stuff an it has my full attention! I was quite impressed with its cleaning the rust out of pitted metal on a frame. Your going to hate my comments as I sound like a man who thinks he is smarter than Joe Biden... I can at least still put my own jacket on, but stuff I say should not be taken as gospel! Just stuff I went through over a sixty year span of breaking shit.
I very much appreciated your comments! I've looked into exhaust/intake upgrades, but for this old 250 they are pretty scarce or just so blasted expensive. My cheapest option for the moment is to find a replacement. If I can find someone here that will make the repair for a reasonable amount I would just go back with this one. I have possibly found a New Old Stock one for approximately 100.00 which is a fair price. These single barrel rochester B are a decent little carburetor, the factory fuel filter on these motors was worthless and led to flooding issues when trash got into the needle and seat. I actually prefer the manual choke to the bimetal spring choke on my Chevelle with the rochester BC which can be sensitive to big changes in temperature. This started out trying to keep this a low cost project, but that hasn't happened. The only positive in this is I actually enjoy working on these on classics. I have enjoyed the 250 in that Chevelle traveling cross country in it and it was smooth, quiet and averaged 22+ miles per gallon at 65-70. I lived overseas for several years in very remote places and transportation had to be simple and reliable or you could get yourself killed. It really gave me a new appreciation for keeping things basic. I really enjoy hearing from others through their comments. I basically know alittle about alot of things, but I don't know alot about anything! Thanks Morgan! Eric
The flapper in the exhaust manifold is called "heat riser valve." Sticking sure was a problem, which GM addressed by selling a special spray lubricant for it, called Heat Riser Valve Lubricant. Pretty imaginative name, right? I think graphite was a big part of it. Has it been your experience that the function of the heat riser valve is replaced by the electric choke? (I have both on my 292.) I got a new "agricultural" exhaust manifold for it a few years ago, which has the heat riser and a dual pattern outlet flange. I stayed away from headers because I didn't want to plumb in an engine coolant heater for the intake, under the carb, but kits to do that were available. I just checked the exhaust manifolds of a couple of 250s with integrated head/intakes from the 70s/80s. They seem to have been vacuum servo actuated. The pivot shafts are oriented vertically, and both move freely, no thanks to regular maintenance by me - maybe that shaft orientation solved the sticking problem. That progressive two barrel carb sounds like the Rochester E2MC used by GM, and I vaguely remember a Webber, maybe used by Chrysler 4 cylinder cars. I like the idea. Sort of half a QuadraJet. What about an adapter to the MonoJet manifold hole? Good point about the freeze plugs - much simpler to do them now, than later, "on demand." I echo your remark about "stuff I say." If a lifetime in a garage hasn't taught us humility, how will we ever learn it? I remember what one of James Herriot's characters said of his work: "The practice of veterinary medicine offers unparalleled opportunities to make a chump of oneself." The practice of auto repair must be close, though.