I still consider "one wash" models of jeans to be raw in the stylistic sense, in the same way that my raw denim doesn't become "un-raw" the first time I personally wash them. A number of brands I'm familiar with will put the jeans through a hot wash and hang them to dry, creases/wrinkles and all, with no extra processing. I think it's a great choice for someone wanting to buy a pair of otherwise-unsanforized jeans but not wanting to work out the shrinkage, whether it's their first pair or their fiftieth.
Very interesting video Nick. I had no idea what the difference is between sanforized vs. unsanforized Jeans. I really like the way you managed the interview to keep everything flowing and to explain to us the differences in the processes. Good job…Ed
Oooooooh... I've always wondered why some of my clothings have twisted seams. I thought they might've cut it wrong or something. lol You learn something new everyday.
I hope there will be part 2 with him. He could make so much stuff clearer for the world of denim. Im still wondering what is starch for in the denim and is it good or not. How does it influence "the rawnes" of things
From what I understand, the starch is simply there to make the fabric easier to work with when they are making the jeans. But then again, I remember my Grandpa starching all of his trousers right before he had my Grandma iron them, so maybe there's something more to it.
Starch gives structure to a fabric, that's why you would spray trousers before pressing them, to help them hold a crisp crease down the leg. It increases the stiffness so with denim most people would find it less comfortable, but that creates more creasing which is great for cool fades! To get rid of most of the starch you can do a lukewarm soak, or if you like more fades you can even respray them with starch after each wash.
Really had to squeeze the definition and description of sanforizing out of him. Thanks for not settling for the routine answer. I wonder why experts are always so reluctant to share it.
I think it's because it isn't just a single defined process. It's a family of slightly different processes that all aim to achieve the same end result of stabilizing the fabric before it is sewn into clothing. I believe that is what he was trying to communicate.
I think we just saw the usual gap between academia and media - he's trained in the former, which is about describing topics in as much length as possible, but this video is the latter - media - which is about concise and simple definitions. It's normal for academics and journalists/media folk to have trouble getting on the same wavelength haha
Yes , yes and yes I just took up sewing leather and denim and tried making a shirt and wow it definitely has my interest. This is awesome to see ,huge thanks for the awesome video !
I tried to get into selvage 20 years ago. I did everything people told me. Even soaking them in warm water first day, and sleeping in them wet. They always shrunk into shorts and stained my legs blue. Eventually, I met a morroccan tailor who knew the real way to get denim that fit.
Learnt from bitter experience, sanforized is the best option, had to sell several expensive paris of denim's over the years on good old eBay, after soaking they shrunk. Breaking in a couple of pairs of new denims now, wearing alternative day's, Lee 101s, fantastic denim's and Iron Heart's 634 n in a 17 oz weight
I was the thousandth “like.” Do I get a prize or something 😂. Waiting on my first pair of salvage jeans. I ordered them but the standard fit was a little too baggy for me so I’m gonna try their slim. Shockoe Atelier is an awesome company to do business with! And their jeans are one washed for those interested.
I get why people like the unsanforized look, but I can't imagine being so into it that I'm willing to take the risk of buying extremely expensive jeans without knowing how they will fit.
Sanforized seems way easier tbh imagine you wash it and suddenly after Christmas your favourite jeans don’t fit. The idea of consistency is more appealing tbh
Interesting. But while Moshin might be infinitely knowledgeable as you stated, he's not a good communicator. Kudos to you, Nick, for clarifying and sorting out the facts. You repeatedly asked him about the actual process and method, but he kept repeating generic generalities. "They have different methods...." conveys nothing. You clarified, it's primarily by heat and moisture. Whew. Like pulling teeth. Then you logically point out the gamble and need to buy a garment that is larger to allow for that shrinkage if unsanforized. He says, well, slightly larger but just leave the top button undone if it no longer closes! What?! He says earlier that some people get mad if their jeans shrink 3 inches when you wash them. Really? I'm one of those weird people that like to wear clothes that actually fit without fear of needing to donate them to a doll collector due to shrinkage. So thanks for parsing out the actual facts, as you always succinctly do. (Loved your pained facial expression at 7:35!)
i have been through many raw sanforized and unsanforized. I have yet to see a single sanforized denim shrink more than 1cm if that. with unsanforized i have always lost between 2-3 inches in length and 1 inch in the waist which stretched back by 1-1.5 inches but soaked with warm water in the bath tub.
@@Stridewise jokes aside…yes, and the reason I watched this so soon after upload was, I just bought 2 pair of GS Pennys, 1 Loden suede, one CXL #8 so now im looking for jeans for going out. This helps. Now I have my starting point. Just sucks having to sift through vids and websites to find what I want at my price point. But just fyi, thanks. I’ve actually updated my wardrobe with those GS, TBC captains and vanguards, and some hackberry chinos. Your work is appreciated sooo much.
Hello. I recently purchased a pair of White's perry mock toe. The problem is inside a flap folds down every time I put it on. I contacted them and they said I could send them back. But I purchased them to wear. I also explained several times that I never dad any problem with REDWINGS . Can you suggest what typ of glue to use on my new rubbish White's Boots?
I do think that there is a bit of snobbery here. If the jeans look good, fit well, and are good quality, does it matter if the denim is sanforized or unsanforized.
it's less snobbery and more hobbyism. some people find it interesting, some don't! i don't think anyone's denigrating cheaper jeans by saying they like historical recreations or something
@Stridewise Yes, I get it. Some people like going through the whole shrink to fit rituals. It is hard to judge with raw, unshrunk jeans one size or two sizes up. The results can be disappointing sometimes and costly, so now I mainly buy Iron Heart, so I know the fit I'm getting.
@@ynysvon smart! my first pair was unsanforized, studio dartisan, i was lucky they shrunk to a good fit they're one of my favorite pairs. haven't done it since though!
No difference. Sanforized will still shrink 1-3% for up to 4 washes after the factory “one wash” which means at best you get 3% shrinkage and at worst 9%. Unsanforised will shrink 10%. It seems whether the jeans fit you or not is dependant on luck and why would you wanna drop 400 bucks on luck?
I still consider "one wash" models of jeans to be raw in the stylistic sense, in the same way that my raw denim doesn't become "un-raw" the first time I personally wash them. A number of brands I'm familiar with will put the jeans through a hot wash and hang them to dry, creases/wrinkles and all, with no extra processing. I think it's a great choice for someone wanting to buy a pair of otherwise-unsanforized jeans but not wanting to work out the shrinkage, whether it's their first pair or their fiftieth.
Weird how your suppose to buy them raw to your size and never wash or get them big and immediately soak or else they don’t fit
Very interesting video Nick. I had no idea what the difference is between sanforized vs. unsanforized Jeans. I really like the way you managed the interview to keep everything flowing and to explain to us the differences in the processes. Good job…Ed
Great to see you linked up with Moshin, he is truly one of the gems of the denim world!
Moshin was the reason I fell in love with denim and eventually found and fell in love with N&F!
Oooooooh... I've always wondered why some of my clothings have twisted seams. I thought they might've cut it wrong or something. lol
You learn something new everyday.
Would love to see a future video on the OVERDYE process. Been around forever but still mysterious
I'm all about sanforized denim (both my IH-634-XHS and IH-634S) and some is even one-washed (IH-634S). Less hassle and more enjoyment IMO.
I hope there will be part 2 with him. He could make so much stuff clearer for the world of denim.
Im still wondering what is starch for in the denim and is it good or not. How does it influence "the rawnes" of things
From what I understand, the starch is simply there to make the fabric easier to work with when they are making the jeans. But then again, I remember my Grandpa starching all of his trousers right before he had my Grandma iron them, so maybe there's something more to it.
Starch gives structure to a fabric, that's why you would spray trousers before pressing them, to help them hold a crisp crease down the leg. It increases the stiffness so with denim most people would find it less comfortable, but that creates more creasing which is great for cool fades! To get rid of most of the starch you can do a lukewarm soak, or if you like more fades you can even respray them with starch after each wash.
Really had to squeeze the definition and description of sanforizing out of him. Thanks for not settling for the routine answer. I wonder why experts are always so reluctant to share it.
I think it's because it isn't just a single defined process. It's a family of slightly different processes that all aim to achieve the same end result of stabilizing the fabric before it is sewn into clothing. I believe that is what he was trying to communicate.
I think we just saw the usual gap between academia and media - he's trained in the former, which is about describing topics in as much length as possible, but this video is the latter - media - which is about concise and simple definitions. It's normal for academics and journalists/media folk to have trouble getting on the same wavelength haha
@@Stridewise Wow, good answer.
Man, after that explanation and lack thereof, I think I'll be steering clear of unsanforized forever
haha but its something that all denimheads should experience at least once hehe
Yes , yes and yes I just took up sewing leather and denim and tried making a shirt and wow it definitely has my interest. This is awesome to see ,huge thanks for the awesome video !
I tried to get into selvage 20 years ago. I did everything people told me. Even soaking them in warm water first day, and sleeping in them wet. They always shrunk into shorts and stained my legs blue.
Eventually, I met a morroccan tailor who knew the real way to get denim that fit.
Learnt from bitter experience, sanforized is the best option, had to sell several expensive paris of denim's over the years on good old eBay, after soaking they shrunk. Breaking in a couple of pairs of new denims now, wearing alternative day's, Lee 101s, fantastic denim's and Iron Heart's 634 n in a 17 oz weight
Were they tight to begin with? I’m having trouble believing a simple soak would shrink em that much
Nice music at the start
yeah it's stock music but it's my favorite stock music!!!
Perfect. Just a video i needed to understand better this stuff
I was the thousandth “like.” Do I get a prize or something 😂. Waiting on my first pair of salvage jeans. I ordered them but the standard fit was a little too baggy for me so I’m gonna try their slim. Shockoe Atelier is an awesome company to do business with! And their jeans are one washed for those interested.
I always go sanforizied or one-washed given the option. No time to shrink it like some geek
You'll get a better fit shrinking them
What I was taught. Expect dimensions to shrink by about 3% if the jeans are untreated. Up to 1% if it preshrunk
I get why people like the unsanforized look, but I can't imagine being so into it that I'm willing to take the risk of buying extremely expensive jeans without knowing how they will fit.
Why Nick seems so frustrated? 😂
Great video. Very informative
Sanforized seems way easier tbh imagine you wash it and suddenly after Christmas your favourite jeans don’t fit. The idea of consistency is more appealing tbh
which brand/model for the denim jacket?
Mine is Oni's! I'd just gotten it from son of a stag sonofastag.com/collections/oni/products/oni-02527zr-20oz-secret-denim-jacket
Thank you. Very educational.
Great video, really interesting.
I thought he said "sanfordized". I assumed we were talking about old episodes of "Sanford and Son". 📺
That's exactly what we were talking about Kit
Bahahahaha 😂
If i WASH fabric / denim before sewing proces... Will it be sanforized denim?
Interesting. But while Moshin might be infinitely knowledgeable as you stated, he's not a good communicator. Kudos to you, Nick, for clarifying and sorting out the facts. You repeatedly asked him about the actual process and method, but he kept repeating generic generalities. "They have different methods...." conveys nothing. You clarified, it's primarily by heat and moisture. Whew. Like pulling teeth. Then you logically point out the gamble and need to buy a garment that is larger to allow for that shrinkage if unsanforized. He says, well, slightly larger but just leave the top button undone if it no longer closes! What?! He says earlier that some people get mad if their jeans shrink 3 inches when you wash them. Really? I'm one of those weird people that like to wear clothes that actually fit without fear of needing to donate them to a doll collector due to shrinkage. So thanks for parsing out the actual facts, as you always succinctly do. (Loved your pained facial expression at 7:35!)
100%
i have been through many raw sanforized and unsanforized. I have yet to see a single sanforized denim shrink more than 1cm if that. with unsanforized i have always lost between 2-3 inches in length and 1 inch in the waist which stretched back by 1-1.5 inches but soaked with warm water in the bath tub.
Haha stride. You look like me when having a math test lol epic
Jeanheads will eventually just be buying bolts of fabric lmao.
hahahah
This made everything sooooo clear…lol
Jokes aside. Thanks
Didn’t it!?!
@@Stridewise jokes aside…yes, and the reason I watched this so soon after upload was, I just bought 2 pair of GS Pennys, 1 Loden suede, one CXL #8 so now im looking for jeans for going out. This helps. Now I have my starting point. Just sucks having to sift through vids and websites to find what I want at my price point. But just fyi, thanks. I’ve actually updated my wardrobe with those GS, TBC captains and vanguards, and some hackberry chinos. Your work is appreciated sooo much.
How much is slightly bigger??
Hello. I recently purchased a pair of White's perry mock toe.
The problem is inside a flap folds down every time I put it on.
I contacted them and they said I could send them back. But I purchased them to wear. I also explained several times that I never dad any problem with REDWINGS .
Can you suggest what typ of glue to use on my new rubbish White's Boots?
Less likely isn't a synonym of less.
mohsin bhai zindabad
I have a pair of Sugar Canes 1946 with a fierce leg twist.
I do think that there is a bit of snobbery here. If the jeans look good, fit well, and are good quality, does it matter if the denim is sanforized or unsanforized.
it's less snobbery and more hobbyism. some people find it interesting, some don't! i don't think anyone's denigrating cheaper jeans by saying they like historical recreations or something
@Stridewise
Yes, I get it. Some people like going through the whole shrink to fit rituals. It is hard to judge with raw, unshrunk jeans one size or two sizes up. The results can be disappointing sometimes and costly, so now I mainly buy Iron Heart, so I know the fit I'm getting.
@@ynysvon smart! my first pair was unsanforized, studio dartisan, i was lucky they shrunk to a good fit they're one of my favorite pairs. haven't done it since though!
Which jeans jacket are you wearing?
Oni secret! 20oz, this one www.sonofastag.com/collections/oni/products/oni-02527zr-20oz-secret-denim-jacket
What do you think of stretch jeans?
💩
Interesting so sanforized can still be raw if it wasn’t washed. But one wash is no longer raw.
never buy unsanforized denim snug in the waist it should be comfortable without being loose. legnth buy 4 inches longer than you need.
Yup that's how I went with my studio dartisans
Great v
That's an unsanforized accent you got going there
I love the niche insults I get on my channel
@@Stridewise :-)
Wait, you guys are washing your jeans?
yes its actually good for the fabric and your relationship with your partner/wife hehe
Jeans is pants
right on, sing it, sister
No difference. Sanforized will still shrink 1-3% for up to 4 washes after the factory “one wash” which means at best you get 3% shrinkage and at worst 9%. Unsanforised will shrink 10%. It seems whether the jeans fit you or not is dependant on luck and why would you wanna drop 400 bucks on luck?