I think instead of the 2x4 I’d get some pipe and cut spacers long enough to go over your bolts and put 1in the front hole and 1in the rear hole just snug and do away with the wood.the bolt spacers are structurally better too I think even after shock install a bolt with spacer in next hole behind shock will keep bolt from pinching shock so 1 on either side and you use those 2bolts.nice looking job thought,good stuff,I’ll be back in touch later
Will this improve my rear end stability ? I have a 4/6 drop on a Silverado single cab 2005 and it’s softer than a jackrabbit on a grill in the middle of august.
@@nokizzy2136 unfortunately I had an accident and had a setback but I’ve been working my butt off, I will be doing the coil over on the front and relocation kit with cal tracks on the rear before the year ends.
Can this be installed on an avalanche? I’m also doing a t56/ AWD conversion and will be using the front 4/5” coil over kit you’ve created. More than likely going with the 14 bolt semi-floating rear as well so I’d assume getting them welded on PRE install would be the best option or would mounting the 14 bolt semi-floating rear end in first be best?
No, when welded level with the frame they have approximately 1" of space to the bed. On the passenger side you may need to remove or trim the heat shield if you need additional clearance.
Would this be worth doing in a 550hp lifted 6 inches? Is it more for asthetics or would this make the ride quality better? Does it effect performance when getting on the gas in a truck tuned for higher torque? Any change to axle wrap?
Generally for performance something like this isnt needed on a lifted truck as the shock working angle gets better the higher the frame is from the axle. For aesthetic reasons it is fine, but not needed for performance. Good replacement shocks in the stock location is usually fine in that case. To fix axle wrap you really need traction bars.
What size welding machine did you use? I mostly tig everything. So my migraines machine is only 140amps. I dont think thats enough. I dont want to chance. What do you think?
The brackets are 1/4" thick but I think the tube wall on the axle and crossmember is closer to 1/8, so its a maybe depending on technique. I use a miller 255 or 252.
Is your axle hitting the frame? Also for daily driving and some towing use, could you still keep the stock strut mounts and combine them to make the rear end never bottom out even under major load.
No, just the shock relocation brackets at this time. Leaf springs are plenty capable and easy though. To eliminate them you would need to convert to a 3link or 4link style suspension which is not a simple task typically.
@@atomic178 thanks for the quick response, I appreciate the advice. I definitely don’t want to over complicate things, I’ll stick with my original plan and just purchase your relocation kit when I’m ready to get the suspension done.
This kit is typically only for lowered performance trucks. Lifted trucks dont have as much of an issue with shock angle as the lowered ones do. Viking doesnt make exceptionally long shocks so stock height with the stock mounts is about it unless you weld on mounts to move the mounting closer together.
@@albertquintero5412 A frame notch? That would be fine, but at some point the axle will be above the frame not leaving any room for a shock without doing something more creative
I think instead of the 2x4 I’d get some pipe and cut spacers long enough to go over your bolts and put 1in the front hole and 1in the rear hole just snug and do away with the wood.the bolt spacers are structurally better too I think even after shock install a bolt with spacer in next hole behind shock will keep bolt from pinching shock so 1 on either side and you use those 2bolts.nice looking job thought,good stuff,I’ll be back in touch later
Do you sell just the rear shocks alone ? For a 2004 Silverado if so drop a link thanks .
Bounce Test approved orderin now .
Will this improve my rear end stability ? I have a 4/6 drop on a Silverado single cab 2005 and it’s softer than a jackrabbit on a grill in the middle of august.
Yep, it will definitely help!
@@atomic178 awesome I will be ordering a kit soon.
@@dalbertovaldez9769you ever do it?
@@nokizzy2136 unfortunately I had an accident and had a setback but I’ve been working my butt off, I will be doing the coil over on the front and relocation kit with cal tracks on the rear before the year ends.
Nice is that like a 2013 frame? I am wanting to do front and rear kit!!
Can this be installed on an avalanche? I’m also doing a t56/ AWD conversion and will be using the front 4/5” coil over kit you’ve created. More than likely going with the 14 bolt semi-floating rear as well so I’d assume getting them welded on PRE install would be the best option or would mounting the 14 bolt semi-floating rear end in first be best?
Did those top brackets end up hitting the bottom of the bed?
No, when welded level with the frame they have approximately 1" of space to the bed. On the passenger side you may need to remove or trim the heat shield if you need additional clearance.
Would this be worth doing in a 550hp lifted 6 inches? Is it more for asthetics or would this make the ride quality better? Does it effect performance when getting on the gas in a truck tuned for higher torque? Any change to axle wrap?
Generally for performance something like this isnt needed on a lifted truck as the shock working angle gets better the higher the frame is from the axle. For aesthetic reasons it is fine, but not needed for performance. Good replacement shocks in the stock location is usually fine in that case. To fix axle wrap you really need traction bars.
@atomic178 Thanks for the information and quick reply!
What line lock you running?
What size welding machine did you use? I mostly tig everything. So my migraines machine is only 140amps. I dont think thats enough. I dont want to chance. What do you think?
The brackets are 1/4" thick but I think the tube wall on the axle and crossmember is closer to 1/8, so its a maybe depending on technique. I use a miller 255 or 252.
@@atomic178 ya I think I just need to buy a stronger mig machine. Not worth trying it and it being too cold. Thanks for the response.
Anything like this coming for the gmt400s?
Is your axle hitting the frame? Also for daily driving and some towing use, could you still keep the stock strut mounts and combine them to make the rear end never bottom out even under major load.
No, I have plenty of axle room, but traction bars also limit downtravel. Do you mean run 2 sets of shocks on the rear or did I misunderstand?
Would the bottom shock holders hit the floor on a 4/6 dropped 2015 Silverado ??
Im not sure what you are asking...
Yeah bro theirs plenty of space.your truck ain’t low enough
Do you make a complete rear coil over kit for 03 Silverado SS so I can eliminate the leaf springs?
No, just the shock relocation brackets at this time. Leaf springs are plenty capable and easy though. To eliminate them you would need to convert to a 3link or 4link style suspension which is not a simple task typically.
@@atomic178 thanks for the quick response, I appreciate the advice. I definitely don’t want to over complicate things, I’ll stick with my original plan and just purchase your relocation kit when I’m ready to get the suspension done.
@@kevinking2370 Sounds good. Only other part I would recommend is some traction bars if you are using a stickier tire
Would you recommend using this kit on a lifted truck, or can you just get the right size viking shocks on a stock set up?
This kit is typically only for lowered performance trucks. Lifted trucks dont have as much of an issue with shock angle as the lowered ones do. Viking doesnt make exceptionally long shocks so stock height with the stock mounts is about it unless you weld on mounts to move the mounting closer together.
Do you sell just the shocks ?
Yes, I am a Viking dealer and can get you anything they make.
@@atomic178 do u have a part # for a 15 Silverado, hub to fender-14inch. I can’t find it specific in your website
Do you have to remove the bed on a Silverado?
No, but it does make it easier
Would this shock would fit on step notch bar?
Not sure I know what you mean
Like step notch are 10 inch
@@albertquintero5412 A frame notch? That would be fine, but at some point the axle will be above the frame not leaving any room for a shock without doing something more creative
Can you still tow with this setup
Yes. Towing would not be affected
Nice looking forward to buying your product
Would this work with a stock height truck
Yes
Do you have an afp insta I can follow?
Would you recommend these over the qa1? What’s the main difference? Sorry I’m new to this
Yes, I like vikings better. Perform better and are about the same price.