I'm really loving this series man. Well worth thee wait. Appreciate all your knowledge. On your Foredom, when you switch your handpiece hit the pedal and put the keytip in the handpiece while its spinning. Another thing you can do is run a diamond bit in reverse to help with the chatter. You can also get left hand cut carbide burrs. Built a pipe this fall for my firewood saw and now I'm building them for everything I have....it's becoming a problem. Cheers!
Challenges, and figuring out how to overcome them, are one of the things that makes such hobbies fun! 1 1/4" od 18gauge tube when squished to an oval, was a near perfect match to the exhaust port of my CS-590.
Thee-O-ret-I-cal. Just found your channel, reminds me of the work done in the late 70s with 2 strokes on motorcycle engines. The numbers were mind boggling then on the pipe transitions and diameter and taper and length, was a game for mathematical geeks. Now porting makes sense to my gearhead thinking. Great to see what you are doing here!
Flow, balance, turbulence, angle of deflection, blow down, transfer, primary, secondary, intake, exhaust, carberation, exhaust back pressure, bore, stroke, my head is about to explode. If I started doing this porting I would have to quit my job cause I would be up all night working this stuff out. Koodoos to you guy that think this stuff out. I sit in awe, so precise to get it spot on. Props to you Tinman and others. Lov'en all the content and feedback. Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙 Tdawg.
About 8 years ago Randy of Mastermind Worksaws did a video using a piece of card stock cut to your desired transfer port height. I use it like you described to get my exhaust port shape and height as well and also keep a copy of the final port shapes for certain cylinders for future reference. I find it to be more accurate than a marker and it helps to protect the plating if your burr skips out. Masking tape is a good idea as well. It is easy to make a mistake when working on the upper transfers, patience wins.
Hey Tinman You seem to carry a positive vibe around the approach you took in this vid. I have a cautious feeling you’re gonna nail it this time. This is better than waiting for a “to be continued” series.....thanks for the vid
Love the video thanks for always taking the extra little time to explain things Tinman you are a fountain of knowledge next mission to find myself one of those right angle attachment right after I replace my currently blown up set up lol
Tinman- years ago when I was learning how to port cylinders I had an old timer tell me to coat the cylinders with Dykam and still use your ring as the measuring point but that way you can use a right angle scribe and it makes a much cleaner line to reference to cut-to line- if your really steady you can also draw out your port design to and it’s there until you wash it off-
I am a huge fan of the diamond bits, so much less agressive for detail work and they have so many different shapes in the kits and they are very inexpesive at Princess auto.
The “super porter’s” use .020 I’ve always used.025 thou I just assume that I’m pretty lazy and I might get some carbon over it’s lifetime 25 thou run’s great across all my bore sizes… I think after 30 thou you might start loosing a little but there are many factory bore’s that are 40 or more… I think 20 to 30 is safe with my goal being 25… if you ever need a little metal shim stock to expand your 1184 or dirko gasket try a Mountain Dew or soda can with a little hit of a 220 grit on the palm sander to clean it up… there’s a couple thou difference between the manufacturers so with a little research… you’ll know if you need to have a can or beer or a Coke with your dinner that night before you finish your project! 😂😂😂. It’s funny but the cheaper “store brand soda’s” have a thicker aluminum can usually! 😂😂👍
@@DaveyBlue32 I have ran this saw and it does have a bit of carbon on it so I'm gonna guess that stihls number is 0.025 just like you have so there's some margin of error and room for carbon to collect over its life.
@@FishFind3000 you’ll find that the factory squish will vary greatly across their models… I’m a Husqvarna guy from way back and I ran the 371’s and 372’s… we were told that most saw’s land around 30 thousand without a base gasket so that if a guy is rebuilding in the field and doesn’t have the base gasket that they can bolt on the new topend and go back to work… most production saw’s are way out with their base gasket in place. I’ve just been really happy with 25 thou.. I did a 660 kit with a meteor topend that was at 18 without a base gasket and I’ve been running it for a couple months just like it is… I figured at some point I’ll probably make a coke can metal shim stock gasket to get a little more room… it’s really rich on 32:1 so I’ve got some time before it need’s cleaned up or more head room… I figured that I’d use this one as a tester to see what carbon deposits or build up that I am getting in a year… I know it’s coming apart down the road some so I want to run it enough to really check out my oil brand and my ratio for buildup…
You can get those right angle tools on eBay or alibaba. I just got one. Be ready to do some modification. Mine didn't fit on the foredom without some work. But if you don't do this at a professional level they're pretty ok.
@@tech-test-break-fix The tolerances on mine seem to be pretty poor. I had to drill out the base of the tool to allow it to fit over the foredom flex shaft. The collet is also 3mm, so I reamed that out to 0.126" to run 1/8" cutters. Using a 1/8" drill bit only opened it to ~0.124", which was just too small for 1/8" tooling, hence the reamer for the last little bit. Going up to the next size drill bit would be quite a bit larger, and I worried it would cause way too much runout. Quite a bit of hassle, but I bought it with the expectation that a no-name attachment straight from China might not work at all. The front end bearing is also super crunchy, so who knows how long it will last. For 1/10 the price of a high quality tool I figured it was worth a shot. Works ok for my purposes, but if people were paying me to use these tools I'd certainly buy the good one.
I want to try to build a sachs dolmar 120 super big bore with a 266/272 top end soon. Maybe it will work, I'll see. 266 would be 72cc, 272 would be 76,5cc. I'll let you know if works👍🏼
The echos are "literal bastard" saws far as build design, on to the intake to muffler...super slow. Probably a "safety" thing even though that makes no sense, yeah in my mind theyere bastardizedation of all the big names and kinda sucks in general..but I know tinman will geter right, directly
Seriously lovin' this 590 build, sorry it's been such a hassle but I appreciate you keeping it real with us from start to finish.
I'm really loving this series man. Well worth thee wait. Appreciate all your knowledge. On your Foredom, when you switch your handpiece hit the pedal and put the keytip in the handpiece while its spinning. Another thing you can do is run a diamond bit in reverse to help with the chatter. You can also get left hand cut carbide burrs.
Built a pipe this fall for my firewood saw and now I'm building them for everything I have....it's becoming a problem.
Cheers!
Very cool video. This is a very cool build and I can’t wait to see that echo run with a pipe👍
Love your dremel tools very nice,,, hope all is well with you and Mrs TINMAN ,,great vid TINMAN thx for taking your time to explain things well
Challenges, and figuring out how to overcome them, are one of the things that makes such hobbies fun! 1 1/4" od 18gauge tube when squished to an oval, was a near perfect match to the exhaust port of my CS-590.
Planning on building a pipe for mine soon, glad to see tubing size to get close. Think I'm going to TIG up a stainless one. May look cool
Thee-O-ret-I-cal. Just found your channel, reminds me of the work done in the late 70s with 2 strokes on motorcycle engines. The numbers were mind boggling then on the pipe transitions and diameter and taper and length, was a game for mathematical geeks. Now porting makes sense to my gearhead thinking. Great to see what you are doing here!
Best part of my day is when I see a notification that Tinman posted a new video!!! Much love from Va-Julius
What parts of VA julius
1 hr from Richmond
Flow, balance, turbulence, angle of deflection, blow down, transfer, primary, secondary, intake, exhaust, carberation, exhaust back pressure, bore, stroke, my head is about to explode. If I started doing this porting I would have to quit my job cause I would be up all night working this stuff out. Koodoos to you guy that think this stuff out. I sit in awe, so precise to get it spot on. Props to you Tinman and others. Lov'en all the content and feedback. Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙 Tdawg.
Thanks Tinman was waiting on CS590 series to continue!! Can't wait to see how it runs with the change to transfers!
About 8 years ago Randy of Mastermind Worksaws did a video using a piece of card stock cut to your desired transfer port height. I use it like you described to get my exhaust port shape and height as well and also keep a copy of the final port shapes for certain cylinders for future reference. I find it to be more accurate than a marker and it helps to protect the plating if your burr skips out. Masking tape is a good idea as well. It is easy to make a mistake when working on the upper transfers, patience wins.
The info shared by you has been invaluable for my echo cs302 rebuild. These last couple videos have answered many questions!🤙🤙
Hey Tinman You seem to carry a positive vibe around the approach you took in this vid. I have a cautious feeling you’re gonna nail it this time. This is better than waiting for a “to be continued” series.....thanks for the vid
Love the video thanks for always taking the extra little time to explain things Tinman you are a fountain of knowledge next mission to find myself one of those right angle attachment right after I replace my currently blown up set up lol
Get er done! We're all rooting for you, were just waiting to see that thing in action
This is the saw I'm thinking of buying... hoping to hear good things... I've read reviews of it not starting consistently.
Really not an echo fan but liking the content. Great problem solving
Tinman- years ago when I was learning how to port cylinders I had an old timer tell me to coat the cylinders with Dykam and still use your ring as the measuring point but that way you can use a right angle scribe and it makes a much cleaner line to reference to cut-to line- if your really steady you can also draw out your port design to and it’s there until you wash it off-
Looks good buddy hope u are well have a good week sir. Stay warm!!!
I have been anxiously waiting on this video 😁
That cylinder looks like a toy in your meat hooks. The ramp angle looks nicer at the top of the transfers now. Can't wait to see it run.
Super video!
Tinman buddy I need the link for buying right angle attachment if you can post it. Thanks and keep up the great work
I'm very interested to see how this goes.
Do you think for a first timer just doing a gasket delete, iron horse style muffler, and cleaning up exhaust port would be a good starting point?
I am a huge fan of the diamond bits, so much less agressive for detail work and they have so many different shapes in the kits and they are very inexpesive at Princess auto.
My Stihl ms362c-m has 0.0235 squish stock. Is that close enough that I should just leave it where it is and only do port work?
It’s pretty tight where it’s at and I think that you’ll only get marginal gains at best. But as like everything in life, it’s up to you.
Thats right in my "acceptable" range.
The “super porter’s” use .020 I’ve always used.025 thou I just assume that I’m pretty lazy and I might get some carbon over it’s lifetime 25 thou run’s great across all my bore sizes… I think after 30 thou you might start loosing a little but there are many factory bore’s that are 40 or more… I think 20 to 30 is safe with my goal being 25… if you ever need a little metal shim stock to expand your 1184 or dirko gasket try a Mountain Dew or soda can with a little hit of a 220 grit on the palm sander to clean it up… there’s a couple thou difference between the manufacturers so with a little research… you’ll know if you need to have a can or beer or a Coke with your dinner that night before you finish your project! 😂😂😂. It’s funny but the cheaper “store brand soda’s” have a thicker aluminum can usually! 😂😂👍
@@DaveyBlue32 I have ran this saw and it does have a bit of carbon on it so I'm gonna guess that stihls number is 0.025 just like you have so there's some margin of error and room for carbon to collect over its life.
@@FishFind3000 you’ll find that the factory squish will vary greatly across their models… I’m a Husqvarna guy from way back and I ran the 371’s and 372’s… we were told that most saw’s land around 30 thousand without a base gasket so that if a guy is rebuilding in the field and doesn’t have the base gasket that they can bolt on the new topend and go back to work… most production saw’s are way out with their base gasket in place. I’ve just been really happy with 25 thou.. I did a 660 kit with a meteor topend that was at 18 without a base gasket and I’ve been running it for a couple months just like it is… I figured at some point I’ll probably make a coke can metal shim stock gasket to get a little more room… it’s really rich on 32:1 so I’ve got some time before it need’s cleaned up or more head room… I figured that I’d use this one as a tester to see what carbon deposits or build up that I am getting in a year… I know it’s coming apart down the road some so I want to run it enough to really check out my oil brand and my ratio for buildup…
Im seeing the low profile right angle tools on AliExpress. (Sorry, I havent read any of the comments yet.)
You can get those right angle tools on eBay or alibaba. I just got one. Be ready to do some modification. Mine didn't fit on the foredom without some work. But if you don't do this at a professional level they're pretty ok.
do you have a link or search criteria. I see lots of dental tools but nothing that will attach to a foredom.
@@tech-test-break-fix The tolerances on mine seem to be pretty poor. I had to drill out the base of the tool to allow it to fit over the foredom flex shaft. The collet is also 3mm, so I reamed that out to 0.126" to run 1/8" cutters. Using a 1/8" drill bit only opened it to ~0.124", which was just too small for 1/8" tooling, hence the reamer for the last little bit. Going up to the next size drill bit would be quite a bit larger, and I worried it would cause way too much runout. Quite a bit of hassle, but I bought it with the expectation that a no-name attachment straight from China might not work at all. The front end bearing is also super crunchy, so who knows how long it will last. For 1/10 the price of a high quality tool I figured it was worth a shot. Works ok for my purposes, but if people were paying me to use these tools I'd certainly buy the good one.
@@tech-test-break-fix I tried but it looks like my responses were deleted. "90 degree" is the term you're looking for.
15 inches of snow last night . been in the plow truck all day
needs a Z900 carb
Hello Thank thank you!!
I want to try to build a sachs dolmar 120 super big bore with a 266/272 top end soon. Maybe it will work, I'll see. 266 would be 72cc, 272 would be 76,5cc. I'll let you know if works👍🏼
The echos are "literal bastard" saws far as build design, on to the intake to muffler...super slow. Probably a "safety" thing even though that makes no sense, yeah in my mind theyere bastardizedation of all the big names and kinda sucks in general..but I know tinman will geter right, directly