@@kalibwilkinson not if he doesn't know how many millivolts DC the thermopile should produce... ( 750 mvdc ) though these thermopile on these gas valves often only produce 550mvdc not under load
The valves with the big red dial last around 30yrs. These new ones, maybe a year or two. When i replace my water heater, i remove the valve that comes installed and put my own valve.
Just to add for readers, my pilot light went out and was unable to re-lit. When you do a voltage test on the controller connector like this video says, you should read, about 850 milli-volts (voltage varies for some other model/brand, I think). If you get that voltage, your green LET light will blink in interval. When you let go, if pilot goes out, then your valve is not working. To fix this, you need to buy a whole new controller to replace them. The new one cost over $200.
i know Im randomly asking but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was stupid lost the login password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Bobby Christopher I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Mine randomly quits each year, once or twice. It flashes 7 time for a Gas Control or Valve Failure. Suddenly, as I'm watching your video, it lights up and works, once again.
He should have used the ends of the leads for isolation but because the leads are soldered to the high limit safety sensor technically there is continuity, not jumpered between the leads so the reading is still accurate. Needlenose alligator clips help a lot in this situation.
Hey Shaun I dont believe your comment to be correct. After a little research others are calling it a thermopile as well. The wires im testing go to the thermopile. Link here: bit.ly/3lwveQl. If you find something that calls it a thermo shutoff switch please reply.
@@MrDmadness I did a little research and others are calling it a thermopile as well. bit.ly/3lwveQl. If you find something that calls it a high limit please reply.
@@brettarnold2817 im literally a ticketed plumber and gasfitter my entire life.. pretty sure I know what I'm talking about. A thermopile is not a high limit
These Honeywell valves are absolute junk! Mine went out 10 months after I bought the tank and 5 valves later I finally have one on the tank that works. Luckily they were replaced under warranty. These things are defective from the factory. I don't know why Rheem and any other company that has one of these valve doesn't take them to court. I also don't get why they keep using these valves on hot water tanks! If someone knows please let me know.
yes i know to steal more $$$$$ from us that electronic board dont need to be in the gas valve the manual on can las 20 yrs or more honey well lg samsung are electronics crooks
Nothing but problems with a large number of these gas valves. Not once has it been a bad power pile. I've seen power piles last for decades on heating equipment. It's the crap electronics in the gas valve.
That's not a thermopile it's a high limit, it means your tanks overheating and creating an dangerous condition. You have either a blocked flue pipe, or the intake screen is clogged up. ( on the bottom of the tank ) you are not getting enough air flow through the combustion chamber,mif younkeep re setting the high limit eventually your tank will bottom out ( rupture ) ... seriously.
you didnt trouble shoot that gas valve u check to see if you have mv to the tpile miss leading & incomplete video go to a trade school or go back to get more training
I am about to replace my leaking gas water heater. I prefer the old reliable gas valve, not the new fancy electronic valve. I know not to put gasoline in the basement, so I have never had a fire or explosion. The new fancy stuff will cost more and will be less reliable. This is not progress.
Thermopile creates about 750mv. This is where the power comes from. Could be bad thermopile, tripped thermo switch, or bad electronics in the gas valve. This guy explains it well ua-cam.com/video/RASBzK_XF2k/v-deo.html
That is an ECO or an electric cut off... the thermopile in in the combustion chamber on the burner... the ECO will disconnect the power to the gas valve so it can not fire...Before replacing a honeywell smart valve for a water heater try to re set it by removing it and shorting out the board and the 3 pins on the gas valve with the control module off..
What about if your setting is at B and the water temp is at 160?. I turned it down to A and checked the water temp and its still High. Is this the gas valve or thermopile?
Sounds like the gas valve is not factory calibrated right. The a setting should be about 130f, either this or you have a natural gas heater burning propane ( over calorific value for the valve ) regardless 160f causes 3rd degree burns instantly.
hes a cheap tech it was a generic cheap meter get a fluke or a simson if you want quality that cheap meter you can get a home depot or lowes for around $30 warning its cheap as f
A good one should give you 300 and up in an open circuit, but if it's brand new and rated for 750mv with good pilot flame, there's no reason why it shouldn't produce 750mv or more.
These Honeywell valves are JUNK My old mechanical valve system with thermo-couple is much more reliable and easier to fix. Now with bad valve on this Honeywell on my Bradford-White water heater which is 10 years old, I either have to buy new controller unit or new water heater. If I do get a new water heater, it will definitely will not have an electronic controller like Honeywell made.
DC volts. Take a reading from one side of the high limit to ground d, and then the other, they should be the same, if ot then you may have a tripped high limit.
I cringed at that part.... and he's attempting to make an educational video... how the fuck can you educate somebody if you don't even k how the very basic components you are working with? I seriously think this is the plague of dumb that is destroying our species
This guy is not a professional. Don't take is advise. He doesn't know a limit switch. He doesn't event where the leads are supposed to be place. Doesn't know the reading for a thermopile.
You are giving diagnostic advice and you don't know the difference between a thermopile and a high limit.... if you don't know don't teach... I say this as respectfully as possible, don't teach if you don't KNOW... a thermopile should have up to 750mvdc on these valves with only pilot theynoften are only around 530mvdc, which is still enough to work, but it also shows that they are making thermopile with less material. Your voltage should be at least 500mvdc with only the pilot, when the main gas valve opens you will get a lowernreadi since more work is being done, at 250mvdc the main valve won't work, and the pilot may or may not stay lit..
I can teach if I don't know the exact specifics. I'm showing how to troubleshoot a crappy valve and based on other comments I actually helped people. When I created this video there wasn't others that I could find. But appreciate your specific feedback to help others with exact voltage.
@@brettarnold2817 if people are not qualified or knowledgeable then working with Gavin any way is very dangerous. There's a reason school is 4 years and 8000hours to get ticketed. I appreciate your response and understand why you made the video but regardless you are empowering the tithing they can perform work they should not. Respectfully intendec
Omg after 4 videos you helped me tun on my heater. You're amazing thank you !!
Device referenced at 1:38 is a resettable high limit switch. thermopile is by the pilot light
From Ohio thermopile runs through that switch though. So he's correct on testing.
@@kalibwilkinson not if he doesn't know how many millivolts DC the thermopile should produce... ( 750 mvdc ) though these thermopile on these gas valves often only produce 550mvdc not under load
The valves with the big red dial last around 30yrs. These new ones, maybe a year or two. When i replace my water heater, i remove the valve that comes installed and put my own valve.
I've been lucky to not have to replace it again
Just to add for readers, my pilot light went out and was unable to re-lit. When you do a voltage test on the controller connector like this video says, you should read, about 850 milli-volts (voltage varies for some other model/brand, I think). If you get that voltage, your green LET light will blink in interval. When you let go, if pilot goes out, then your valve is not working. To fix this, you need to buy a whole new controller to replace them. The new one cost over $200.
i know Im randomly asking but does someone know a tool to get back into an instagram account??
I was stupid lost the login password. I would appreciate any help you can give me
@Colby Franklin instablaster ;)
@Bobby Christopher I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Bobby Christopher It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account!
@Colby Franklin You are welcome :)
Mine randomly quits each year, once or twice. It flashes 7 time for a Gas Control or Valve Failure. Suddenly, as I'm watching your video, it lights up and works, once again.
Thanks for this video buddy, please keep it posted!
Glad people find it useful!!!
@Don Sangasy pmy0
I don't think I'll be taking advise from a guy that says "I think this is the thermopile" as he connects to the thermal cutoff
Lmao ,always wonder why people who dont really know what their doing make videos smh
He should have used the ends of the leads for isolation but because the leads are soldered to the high limit safety sensor technically there is continuity, not jumpered between the leads so the reading is still accurate. Needlenose alligator clips help a lot in this situation.
@@quantumgigavsigmaraven1745 I made the video because I couldn't find one on the subject. Sorry I'm not a plumber.
Ya jared I'm not a plumber and what is wrong with saying I think?
THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEO...
check the plug ends they lose connection to the wire. I have fixed half a dozen.
That's the Thermo shutoff switch, the thermopile is inside attached to the burner unit next to the pilot light
Hey Shaun I dont believe your comment to be correct. After a little research others are calling it a thermopile as well. The wires im testing go to the thermopile. Link here: bit.ly/3lwveQl. If you find something that calls it a thermo shutoff switch please reply.
This is how you troubleshoot the thermopile, not the gas valve.
Damage, Inc. its one of two issues as hes mentioned. Thermopile ruled out would mean you have a bad gas valve.
Yup, and he called the high limit the thermopile. If you don't know it don't teach others....period.
@@MrDmadness I did a little research and others are calling it a thermopile as well. bit.ly/3lwveQl. If you find something that calls it a high limit please reply.
@@brettarnold2817 im literally a ticketed plumber and gasfitter my entire life.. pretty sure I know what I'm talking about. A thermopile is not a high limit
These Honeywell valves are absolute junk! Mine went out 10 months after I bought the tank and 5 valves later I finally have one on the tank that works. Luckily they were replaced under warranty. These things are defective from the factory. I don't know why Rheem and any other company that has one of these valve doesn't take them to court. I also don't get why they keep using these valves on hot water tanks! If someone knows please let me know.
yes i know to steal more $$$$$ from us that electronic board dont need to be in the gas valve the manual on can las 20 yrs or more honey well lg samsung are electronics crooks
Nothing but problems with a large number of these gas valves. Not once has it been a bad power pile. I've seen power piles last for decades on heating equipment. It's the crap electronics in the gas valve.
Yep. I just diagnosed mine at 8 years old. Never again. Most regular valves can last 25 years!
Mine went today.... I bought in 2015 I called the tech support...and told me to reset the thermocouple where that red clip. And it working now
Did you just have to press the button to reset?
How did you reset it? What was tech support's number? I need help!
That's not a thermopile it's a high limit, it means your tanks overheating and creating an dangerous condition. You have either a blocked flue pipe, or the intake screen is clogged up. ( on the bottom of the tank ) you are not getting enough air flow through the combustion chamber,mif younkeep re setting the high limit eventually your tank will bottom out ( rupture ) ... seriously.
Thermopile should be renamed Pileofshit.
you didnt trouble shoot that gas valve u check to see if you have mv to the tpile miss leading & incomplete video go to a trade school or go back to get more training
I am about to replace my leaking gas water heater. I prefer the old reliable gas valve, not the new fancy electronic valve. I know not to put gasoline in the basement, so I have never had a fire or explosion. The new fancy stuff will cost more and will be less reliable. This is not progress.
Any ideas when the light doesn't even come on or blink?
I would make sure it is connected and try resetting it first. If that doesn't work i would replace the valve.
Thermopile creates about 750mv. This is where the power comes from. Could be bad thermopile, tripped thermo switch, or bad electronics in the gas valve. This guy explains it well ua-cam.com/video/RASBzK_XF2k/v-deo.html
There's also a reset button on the temperature node
on the thermal pile.
That is an ECO or an electric cut off... the thermopile in in the combustion chamber on the burner... the ECO will disconnect the power to the gas valve so it can not fire...Before replacing a honeywell smart valve for a water heater try to re set it by removing it and shorting out the board and the 3 pins on the gas valve with the control module off..
How
Ty
These Honeywell units are total junk. Hard to believe nobody can make a better one.
What about if your setting is at B and the water temp is at 160?. I turned it down to A and checked the water temp and its still High. Is this the gas valve or thermopile?
Sounds like the gas valve is not factory calibrated right. The a setting should be about 130f, either this or you have a natural gas heater burning propane ( over calorific value for the valve ) regardless 160f causes 3rd degree burns instantly.
What brand or type of voltimeter did you use
hes a cheap tech it was a generic cheap meter get a fluke or a simson if you want quality that cheap meter you can get a home depot or lowes for around $30 warning its cheap as f
And what is the expected milli voltage from a good thermopile?
it will just increase in value as the flame is on it
A good one should give you 300 and up in an open circuit, but if it's brand new and rated for 750mv with good pilot flame, there's no reason why it shouldn't produce 750mv or more.
750mv with no load open read
These Honeywell valves are JUNK My old mechanical valve system with thermo-couple is much more reliable and easier to fix. Now with bad valve on this Honeywell on my Bradford-White water heater which is 10 years old, I either have to buy new controller unit or new water heater. If I do get a new water heater, it will definitely will not have an electronic controller like Honeywell made.
Thermal piles 4 days
in what position you put multimeter
jorge perez i
DC volts. Take a reading from one side of the high limit to ground d, and then the other, they should be the same, if ot then you may have a tripped high limit.
I think this is the thermopile?... LOL
I cringed at that part.... and he's attempting to make an educational video... how the fuck can you educate somebody if you don't even k how the very basic components you are working with? I seriously think this is the plague of dumb that is destroying our species
This guy is not a professional. Don't take is advise. He doesn't know a limit switch. He doesn't event where the leads are supposed to be place. Doesn't know the reading for a thermopile.
our the pilot wont light
What happened
@@randyu8688 well we found out the gas valve went bad . it seems the life of these valves don't last to long. some do an some don't
#
this is a stupid technology
You are giving diagnostic advice and you don't know the difference between a thermopile and a high limit.... if you don't know don't teach... I say this as respectfully as possible, don't teach if you don't KNOW... a thermopile should have up to 750mvdc on these valves with only pilot theynoften are only around 530mvdc, which is still enough to work, but it also shows that they are making thermopile with less material. Your voltage should be at least 500mvdc with only the pilot, when the main gas valve opens you will get a lowernreadi since more work is being done, at 250mvdc the main valve won't work, and the pilot may or may not stay lit..
I can teach if I don't know the exact specifics. I'm showing how to troubleshoot a crappy valve and based on other comments I actually helped people. When I created this video there wasn't others that I could find. But appreciate your specific feedback to help others with exact voltage.
@@brettarnold2817 if people are not qualified or knowledgeable then working with Gavin any way is very dangerous. There's a reason school is 4 years and 8000hours to get ticketed. I appreciate your response and understand why you made the video but regardless you are empowering the tithing they can perform work they should not. Respectfully intendec
@@MrDmadness wow I didn't know it was so dangerous. I feel lucky to be alive #HoneywellValveSurvivor
these valves are nothing but junk