Have you made sure to position the clamp the right way up and to tighten the upper screw first? Please check for warranty claims at your bike shop and send it in if necessary. You can also contact us in Facebook or Instagram for further information. Cheers! MAGURA Social Media Team
To simplify what magura said: the top screw is meant to be fully tightened before you even start tightening the lower screw, then you do the lower with 4nm. Actually 3nm, it works just as well in terms of tightening it down but will spin in a crash...
@Richard Marchmont Have you made sure to position the clamp the right way up (logo oriented correctly, arrows pointing upwards) and made sure to fully tighten the upper screw first so it sits flush against the master assembly? You can check for warranty claims at your bike shop and send it in if necessary. You can also contact us on Facebook or Instagram for further information. Cheers! MAGURA Social Media Team
@Richard Marchmont I understand, we apologize for the issues you've experienced! If you're working with a dealership that's registered with us, I would recommend to directly contact our service team for these sorts of cases. They will be able to better help you than we can here on UA-cam.
The MT7 has a bit more power and more customization options compared to the MT5. The HC3 lever does NOT fit the MT5. It's only compatible with Carbotecture SL masters: MT7, MT8 SL, MT8 Pro, MT Trail SL.
Hi! The MT5 eSTOP comes with brake pads & transport devices installed, bolts to mount it, and some accessories such as a new olive and insert pin for shortening the brake hose.
@@MAGURAPassionPeople I wish the brake Lever were made of aluminium that's a only reason I didn't buy magura and bought shimano slx m7120 instead In the future I might change the Caliper to magura
Do you mean the "M" on the clamp? Or did I misunderstand you? The arrows on the clamp have to point upwards and the "M" has to be oriented the correct way up, since the clamp is designed to carry the load that way. You then need to tighten the upper bolt fully to 4Nm first, only then continuing to tighten the lower bolt.
I'd recommend that you first exercise the pistons following the instructions found on magura's youtube video here: ua-cam.com/video/JJI9ZrFMC1Y/v-deo.html If that doesn't work, remove the brake pads and wheel. Insert a 4mm allen wrench in the brake caliper diagonally like a rotor would sit. Then attach a syringe to the brake master and pour some fluid in. Pull the lever until all pistons contact the 4mm allen wrench and the lever becomes solid. Then remove the 4mm allen wrench and dip a cotton swab in some royal blood and lube the pistons with it. After that, carefully push the pistons fully back preferably with a plastic tire lever so you won't damage the pistons. Then exercise the pistons using the previous method a few times but don't add more brake fluid to the pistons. Before pushing the pistons back in the last time, get a clean cotton swab and wipe any excess brake fluid off the pistons so it won't get on the brake pads during riding and then push the pistons fully back in. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol to be sure that there's absolutely no brake fluid to contaminate the pads and then put the wheel and pads back in. Remove the syringe and close the system before applying the brake so you won't overfill the system. Before actuating the brake lever, center the caliper by looking at the caliper not the brake pads, then pump the brake lever. The brake will probably rub and you will have a lot of throw on your lever. How you fix it is that you take a small flat blade screwdriver and put it in between the brake pad and piston on the OPPOSITE piston of the rubbing one and actuate the brake while pushing the brake pad inwards with the screwdriver. Repeat the screwdriver trick until no rub. You should now have a very solid brake feel and hopefully no rub. Cheers!
Thanks for the comment! As the previous answer notes, try mobilizing the pistons to see if that helps. If it doesn't, feel free to send us a direct message via Facebook or Instagram or contact your dealership to send in the brake for a service. Kind regards! MAGURA Social Media Team
@@MAGURAPassionPeople i don't know if this is a trick but i'll say it anyways Whenever i align brakes (any brake) i always get frustrated trying to align it so normally i align it the best i can, then i go ride around pull on the brakes, do some sprints etc... then i go back inside and undo the screws a little, pull on the lever, tighten the screws and bam the brakes are aligned 🙃
The MT7 brakes are in general compatible with any bike that has PM or IS brake mounts. Make sure to take fork and frame specifications that limit compatibility into account. You can contact one of our dealership partners to get further help with this in person: magura.com/en/EUR/dealer-search ...or send us a message on Facebook or Instagram.
* accelerate bicycle to 30km/h * brake bicycle to a stop * REPEAT 30 - 50 TIMES!!! man, i'm on a single speed urban trials bike in a flat city.. how am i suppose to accelerate to that speeds and repeat that 30-50 times :/ are there any alternatives to set pads to rotors
I just pushed my bike around for 10 minutes and actuated the brakes the entire time, then try (emphasis on try) to find a hill and ride down with the brakes actuated the entire time, make sure to bed them in properly because properly bedding in pads can result in 60% more power 🤯 My brakes where barely working before bedding them in and now they make shimano's look like a joke...
@@AlenHR sounds fun too 😅 I ride at a bike park (lucky me lol) so i just bedded them in a little at home, the when i got to the park i rode down little down slope with my brakes engaged the entire time, the braking power went from: sram level, to: much more powerful than shimano saint, bedding in is (and i can't stress this enough) VERY important with organic pads especially. Also you said something about trials, sounds cool! Every time i watch a trials rider i'm amazed🤯
Please follow our recommended bedding in procedure. Bedding them in is absolutely essential to get the proper power out of the pads and prevent fading as well as noise issues. www.magura.com/en/components/techcenter/faq-the-running-in-procedure-for-brakes/
@@MAGURAPassionPeople you kinda sound like government official with that statement. and it seems you haven't event read my original post because it is obvious i am unable to follow your recommended bedding procedure :( also, you sent me link on information i wrote in my first post? wtf :D man, i love maguras even since i got hs33 in like 2001. but this kind of community management from your side made me use 3rd party for information on your systems. i hope you invest more in that aspect of your business because your systems are amazing.
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 They're used to adjust the height of the caliper in comparison to the rotor so the pads make contact at the right position.
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 the magura adapters lack adequate adjustability. So, the customer will buy the magura adapter shims. Marketing genius!
There's no need to cut down the hose except for visual reasons. You could argue that a shorter hose will also be less likely to get caught on things, but you don't have to cut down the hose.
To anyone thinking of buying these, don’t. I have just wasted money on same and they have damaged my raceface carbon bars due to their cheap lever mounting mechanism. I used a torq wrench to the correct nm, the bolt on the calliper sheared into two like chalk. As such I thought I would take the levers off as they are dire, replacing same with Shimano. Upon taking off the lever I seen that they have marked my CF bars, the mark directly lines up with the blunt plastic on the the back of the mt4 lever, the back of the lever mount is not smooth but actually tough plastic. Therefore, I’m down over £100 on bars and now need to find new levers and a new bolt, seriously go for Shimano or Hope, these were worse than the Tektro brakes that came with my diverge.
Useless video , my M7s feel spongy as hell and there brand new, the caliper is amazing... the levers are useless. What we need is a video showing how to get bite on the rotors without pulling the lever right to the handlebar grip. If that's how Maguras work I'm buying Shimano XT or.SLX levers which I have on my front brake and are amazing with nice modulation,.
@@tysonbear well magura customer service isn't a joke whatsoever, send them a message on social media, it's way easier and they answer all the time, they aren't a massive company so they probably have a spam folder on their email, just because your emails ended up there doesn't mean their customer service is bad...
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 I gave up on waiting for an email response years ago. I called them a couple times. I gave up on magura when they told be it was possible to compress water. These people obviously don't understand hydraulics.
Fo not buy Magura. They do not have warranty if boughtvsecond hand and levers are not repairable only replaceable and no parts sold (ask before you buy) what an enviromental waste
@@InstaLabSparti by the way shimano dont either. You have to buy a new caliper/lever if you damage a piston or seal. Hope and sram are the only ones that have rebuild kits for their brakes.
I wouldn't consider this complete by a long shot. Pretty long, but not as long as all that brake housing that was left on this install
Agreed. This is the easy part - tightening bolts… I came for tips on routing through the frame with an cut open end housing…
@@urbanphotographer there is a end pin that comes with the baeaks. Little late i see 😎
Did I understand correctly that for installation Magura MT5 on the right side, I need only to rotate the clamp? And I don't need to do anything else.
Correct! For the MT7 and other models with the Carbotecture SL master you would additionally have to flip the BAT pin.
Nice video
Just used 4nm with a torque wrench to re install the lever on a new handlebar and it literally exploded. You guys should lower this NM.
Have you made sure to position the clamp the right way up and to tighten the upper screw first? Please check for warranty claims at your bike shop and send it in if necessary. You can also contact us in Facebook or Instagram for further information.
Cheers! MAGURA Social Media Team
To simplify what magura said: the top screw is meant to be fully tightened before you even start tightening the lower screw, then you do the lower with 4nm.
Actually 3nm, it works just as well in terms of tightening it down but will spin in a crash...
Snap, cheap material, carbo this and that, ie plastic...... I also did 4nm on the back of my lever clamps and the lower one exploded in two.
@Richard Marchmont Have you made sure to position the clamp the right way up (logo oriented correctly, arrows pointing upwards) and made sure to fully tighten the upper screw first so it sits flush against the master assembly?
You can check for warranty claims at your bike shop and send it in if necessary. You can also contact us on Facebook or Instagram for further information.
Cheers! MAGURA Social Media Team
@Richard Marchmont I understand, we apologize for the issues you've experienced! If you're working with a dealership that's registered with us, I would recommend to directly contact our service team for these sorts of cases. They will be able to better help you than we can here on UA-cam.
Do the brakes come like that or do I manually have to assemble the brakes?
@@Tabonyimmek your brakes come with a 2 m hose length and you have to shorten the hose to match your bike.
Hello , what difference between mt7 and mt5 ? and also HC3 lever can fit on both 7 and 5 ? thanks a lot
The MT7 has a bit more power and more customization options compared to the MT5. The HC3 lever does NOT fit the MT5. It's only compatible with Carbotecture SL masters: MT7, MT8 SL, MT8 Pro, MT Trail SL.
Hi does the magura MT5 eSTOP comes with brake pads and bolts and transport device to use when shorten the tube
Hi! The MT5 eSTOP comes with brake pads & transport devices installed, bolts to mount it, and some accessories such as a new olive and insert pin for shortening the brake hose.
@@MAGURAPassionPeople I wish the brake Lever were made of aluminium that's a only reason I didn't buy magura and bought shimano slx m7120 instead
In the future I might change the Caliper to magura
What handle bar is that?
Why must that E thing be upward?
Do you mean the "M" on the clamp? Or did I misunderstand you? The arrows on the clamp have to point upwards and the "M" has to be oriented the correct way up, since the clamp is designed to carry the load that way. You then need to tighten the upper bolt fully to 4Nm first, only then continuing to tighten the lower bolt.
I bought a mt5 and the pistons won‘t retract enough to prevent friction on the disc
I'd recommend that you first exercise the pistons following the instructions found on magura's youtube video here: ua-cam.com/video/JJI9ZrFMC1Y/v-deo.html If that doesn't work, remove the brake pads and wheel. Insert a 4mm allen wrench in the brake caliper diagonally like a rotor would sit. Then attach a syringe to the brake master and pour some fluid in. Pull the lever until all pistons contact the 4mm allen wrench and the lever becomes solid. Then remove the 4mm allen wrench and dip a cotton swab in some royal blood and lube the pistons with it. After that, carefully push the pistons fully back preferably with a plastic tire lever so you won't damage the pistons. Then exercise the pistons using the previous method a few times but don't add more brake fluid to the pistons. Before pushing the pistons back in the last time, get a clean cotton swab and wipe any excess brake fluid off the pistons so it won't get on the brake pads during riding and then push the pistons fully back in. Clean the caliper with brake cleaner or isopropyl alcohol to be sure that there's absolutely no brake fluid to contaminate the pads and then put the wheel and pads back in. Remove the syringe and close the system before applying the brake so you won't overfill the system. Before actuating the brake lever, center the caliper by looking at the caliper not the brake pads, then pump the brake lever. The brake will probably rub and you will have a lot of throw on your lever. How you fix it is that you take a small flat blade screwdriver and put it in between the brake pad and piston on the OPPOSITE piston of the rubbing one and actuate the brake while pushing the brake pad inwards with the screwdriver. Repeat the screwdriver trick until no rub. You should now have a very solid brake feel and hopefully no rub. Cheers!
Thanks for the comment! As the previous answer notes, try mobilizing the pistons to see if that helps. If it doesn't, feel free to send us a direct message via Facebook or Instagram or contact your dealership to send in the brake for a service.
Kind regards! MAGURA Social Media Team
MAGURA thanks i‘ve already contacted your ig and it‘s working fine now
@@ImproFlight Awesome, glad to hear that!
@@MAGURAPassionPeople i don't know if this is a trick but i'll say it anyways
Whenever i align brakes (any brake) i always get frustrated trying to align it so normally i align it the best i can, then i go ride around pull on the brakes, do some sprints etc... then i go back inside and undo the screws a little, pull on the lever, tighten the screws and bam the brakes are aligned 🙃
In the video description I am missing the MT Sport (former MT2) model.
How do you route the cable through the frame?
are the mt7 discs compatible with all wheels?
The MT7 brakes are in general compatible with any bike that has PM or IS brake mounts. Make sure to take fork and frame specifications that limit compatibility into account. You can contact one of our dealership partners to get further help with this in person: magura.com/en/EUR/dealer-search ...or send us a message on Facebook or Instagram.
What is the MDR-P rotor torque spec?
I'm pretty sure it's the same (don't take my word though cause i might be wrong)
* accelerate bicycle to 30km/h
* brake bicycle to a stop
* REPEAT 30 - 50 TIMES!!!
man, i'm on a single speed urban trials bike in a flat city.. how am i suppose to accelerate to that speeds and repeat that 30-50 times :/
are there any alternatives to set pads to rotors
I just pushed my bike around for 10 minutes and actuated the brakes the entire time, then try (emphasis on try) to find a hill and ride down with the brakes actuated the entire time, make sure to bed them in properly because properly bedding in pads can result in 60% more power 🤯
My brakes where barely working before bedding them in and now they make shimano's look like a joke...
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 hm..... thanks for ideas, i have access to a treadmill. it could work if i don't die in the process
@@AlenHR sounds fun too 😅
I ride at a bike park (lucky me lol) so i just bedded them in a little at home, the when i got to the park i rode down little down slope with my brakes engaged the entire time, the braking power went from: sram level, to: much more powerful than shimano saint, bedding in is (and i can't stress this enough) VERY important with organic pads especially.
Also you said something about trials, sounds cool! Every time i watch a trials rider i'm amazed🤯
Please follow our recommended bedding in procedure. Bedding them in is absolutely essential to get the proper power out of the pads and prevent fading as well as noise issues. www.magura.com/en/components/techcenter/faq-the-running-in-procedure-for-brakes/
@@MAGURAPassionPeople you kinda sound like government official with that statement. and it seems you haven't event read my original post because it is obvious i am unable to follow your recommended bedding procedure :( also, you sent me link on information i wrote in my first post? wtf :D
man, i love maguras even since i got hs33 in like 2001. but this kind of community management from your side made me use 3rd party for information on your systems. i hope you invest more in that aspect of your business because your systems are amazing.
Magura doesn't provide washer shims with their adapter kits. Leaves the customer to go to home depot to find various width washers.
Why do you want washer shims? Serious question, i've never pulled brakes apart...
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 They're used to adjust the height of the caliper in comparison to the rotor so the pads make contact at the right position.
@Paul We do sell washers to adjust the caliper height.
@@MAGURAPassionPeople my qm12 adapter KIT was missing them.
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 the magura adapters lack adequate adjustability. So, the customer will buy the magura adapter shims. Marketing genius!
Magura my city name
nice tutorial. should i ride with housing so long? dudes, complete amateur job
There's no need to cut down the hose except for visual reasons. You could argue that a shorter hose will also be less likely to get caught on things, but you don't have to cut down the hose.
To anyone thinking of buying these, don’t. I have just wasted money on same and they have damaged my raceface carbon bars due to their cheap lever mounting mechanism. I used a torq wrench to the correct nm, the bolt on the calliper sheared into two like chalk. As such I thought I would take the levers off as they are dire, replacing same with Shimano. Upon taking off the lever I seen that they have marked my CF bars, the mark directly lines up with the blunt plastic on the the back of the mt4 lever, the back of the lever mount is not smooth but actually tough plastic.
Therefore, I’m down over £100 on bars and now need to find new levers and a new bolt, seriously go for Shimano or Hope, these were worse than the Tektro brakes that came with my diverge.
Wtf is this?
Useless video , my M7s feel spongy as hell and there brand new, the caliper is amazing... the levers are useless. What we need is a video showing how to get bite on the rotors without pulling the lever right to the handlebar grip. If that's how Maguras work I'm buying Shimano XT or.SLX levers which I have on my front brake and are amazing with nice modulation,.
Sounds like you just need to bleed your brakes
@@reidanderson2 yeah,
Idk who this guy is but that's what a bleed is for
There is a bite adjustment screw on the lever. Magura customer service is a joke.
@@tysonbear well magura customer service isn't a joke whatsoever, send them a message on social media, it's way easier and they answer all the time, they aren't a massive company so they probably have a spam folder on their email, just because your emails ended up there doesn't mean their customer service is bad...
@@thelongestnameinthecomment9677 I gave up on waiting for an email response years ago. I called them a couple times. I gave up on magura when they told be it was possible to compress water. These people obviously don't understand hydraulics.
Fo not buy Magura. They do not have warranty if boughtvsecond hand and levers are not repairable only replaceable and no parts sold (ask before you buy) what an enviromental waste
No companies give warranty for second hand parts lol. And you can buy spares for the levers. You can buy just the lever without the body...
@@Mortonbmx car companies do... Computer and phones have second hand warranty. Magura does not sell o repair their levers (orings pistons)
@@InstaLabSparti were talking about bikes not cars or computers. I dont know of any bike companies that give a warranty to 2nd hand used parts.
@@InstaLabSparti by the way shimano dont either. You have to buy a new caliper/lever if you damage a piston or seal. Hope and sram are the only ones that have rebuild kits for their brakes.
@@Mortonbmx but you can find shimano parts easy, orings pistons...