This was literally the first mod I did to my 17’ GTI. Did it the first week of ownership when I bought it brand new in 2017. Due to that, I can’t say it drives differently, or that my IAT’s have changed because it was done the first week of owning the car, but I will say this: I have driven it through three heavy, snowy UT winters, and through one very rainy summer in AZ, and I’ve had zero issues with anything getting into the intake. Even if something did get into it, the air filter would catch it before it made its way into the turbo anyways.
I can tell you I did it on mine about 2yrs ago never had an issue. If you watch last human garage and a few other's have done it and never had an issue. You can also get the block off piece on passenger side to allow all air going to inlet on driver side.
There’s also a block off plate for the opposite side, and even an air route plate you can mount in the bumper to route air into it, that you can try for further testing.
I did this air duct mod on my ‘16 R. Also the inlet and neuspeed discharge pipe. I also have a turbo blanket to help with temps. I did it all at the same time though so I can’t say which is best. The turbo noise is significantly louder though.
I had the block off plate in the air duct, but ended up removing it. I want air to hit the bay as well so I figure doing this mod might give best of both worlds.
El aire que necesita el motor le entra fundamentalmente por la rejilla, da igual que le pongas el block off o no. Simplemente el intake trabaja por aspiración y hace que esa apertura meta calor del motor al principio para proteger y aumentar la temperatura de turbo antes cuando el motor y su aceite no ha llegado a la temperatura óptima. Lo ideal sería tener un Block off plate modulable y cuando el motor llegue a su temperatura poder cerrarlo porque la admisión ya no necesita ese aire caliente, ya lo que necesita es ese aire frío. Piensa que el intake de stock tiene que trabajar en infinidad de países con climatología muy diferente de inicio de motor, y el turbo en frío es lo que más sufre si se le pisa sin temperatura. Esa pieza, block off plate, viene bien cerrarla en países muy fríos en verano, pero abrirla en invierno. En países de clima no tan frío se puede mantener cerrada. Otro tema de porque es bueno tenerla abierta en invierno es por las posibles nevadas y entrada de copos por el intake que puede llevar a que el filtro pueda coger cierta humedad y perder eficacia y ahogar la entrada de aire. Ya te digo, el intake está hecho para su función en el mundo, depende del país donde uses el coche puedes modificarlo sin preocupaciones o no. Esta última explicación es la misma por la cual la parte del conductor no viene abierta directamente de stock. Piensa en R601e, como viene montado y se supone que es para sacar rendimientos sobre stage2+ o 3. Espero haber ayudado un poco a todos.
@@josemariapugagarcia7147i live in a country that has hot summers and cold winters, should i open the closed part. Also do u think making holes / opening would make it less efficient becuase the air will be disturbed as the opening have no lines to straighten the air that is going inside?
Same mode here in Sweden 🇸🇪 alot of rain and snow and no problem, also remove snow plate from air box 😃 I do it for more air, think bigger intercooler will fix temperature problems 😃
Mk4s been doing this for years. Except the webbing was removed on both sides to allow air to go directly into the engine bay and flow over the engine removing hot air
Intercooler>intake mods. Your temps are not cooling because of the intake but because of the intercooler sucking in air. Intakes have proven to make no power on this platform and are use strictly for turbo sounds and looks. Wait until your intercooler is upgraded and you start running e85 the entire car will run about 20 degrees cooler.
Nice vid man. Do you ever get knock readings with COBB. I have a S3 with cobb ots and even after updates My car experiences Knock cylinders All cylinders have -3.00 1 2 3 4 cylinders. Car runs great. But the knock is keeping me worried. Any advice..
Yes, Cobb ots maps aren’t the greatest so you’ll most likely see knocks. We talk a little more about knocks in this vid, abd monitoring them. generally anything more than -3.00 is not too good ua-cam.com/video/agDOzzlS0KU/v-deo.html
@@JewelCity1 I did some reading and someone is suggesting to do a Carbon build clean before doing a downpipe and intercooler. I've never ran the car hard @104K don't know if it's even worth it to continue to invest in it. But I feel the motor is strong like so much potential
I feel like this would be best during winter season during summer it’ll just pull timing if it gets to the point where it’s complete hell I live in Vegas and bro my car be hitting me with the 117F
Hey bro so you make 400hp with the is38 most people say that could blow the turbo cause it can’t handle that much but the vortex can handle 400hp and more and ofc it a bit more expensive .do you ever worry you might blow the turbo??
El aire que necesita el motor le entra fundamentalmente por la rejilla, da igual que le pongas el block off o no. Simplemente el intake trabaja por aspiración y hace que esa apertura meta calor del motor al principio para proteger y aumentar la temperatura de turbo antes cuando el motor y su aceite no ha llegado a la temperatura óptima. Lo ideal sería tener un Block off plate modulable y cuando el motor llegue a su temperatura poder cerrarlo porque la admisión ya no necesita ese aire caliente, ya lo que necesita es ese aire frío. Piensa que el intake de stock tiene que trabajar en infinidad de países con climatología muy diferente de inicio de motor, y el turbo en frío es lo que más sufre si se le pisa sin temperatura. Esa pieza, block off plate, viene bien cerrarla en países muy fríos en verano, pero abrirla en invierno. En países de clima no tan frío se puede mantener cerrada. Otro tema de porque es bueno tenerla abierta en invierno es por las posibles nevadas y entrada de copos por el intake que puede llevar a que el filtro pueda coger cierta humedad y perder eficacia y ahogar la entrada de aire. Ya te digo, el intake está hecho para su función en el mundo, depende del país donde uses el coche puedes modificarlo sin preocupaciones o no. Esta última explicación es la misma por la cual la parte del conductor no viene abierta directamente de stock. Piensa en R601e, como viene montado y se supone que es para sacar rendimientos sobre stage2+ o 3. Espero haber ayudado un poco a todos. Por eso animo productor del video a que contemple la posibilidad de cerrar y poner el block off plate y hacer el mismo trabajo de medición, estoy seguro que vas a llegar a los +20 grados de diferencia sin problema. Lo pongo aquí para más visibilidad. Un saludo
1year later: currently running an open intake and haven’t had any issues. Doesn’t get driven in the rain often but when it does I’m not too worried. I think as long as you’re not boosting in rain wet weather it should not suck any water.
Jb4 is a piggy back calibration, so it is limited compared to Cobb. Cobb allows you to get custom tunes and tune the timing, thus squeeze more power out of the engine. Jb4 won’t allow all of that.
Nice idea for the inlet! But speaking of the intake itself: As long as your Stage 1 a new air intake wont do much. Iv kept my original box as they say it does as well as 99.5 % of the other ones out there. Its not until you reach higher level of tunes it starts to make a differance. Personally id love to have a carbon fibre intake for the looks sake, but paying all those cash for just the looks when nobodys really gonna see it unless you pop the hood often might not be worth it, unless your showing of alot at shows and stuff. My two cents anyways 👍
I agree with you 100% re. the performance since I ended up buying 034 carbon intake for the sound and the looks. However, I don't feel the need to show off to anyone; I do things to my car for my enjoyment and for no one else. It does make me check fluid levels more often :D
@@plumski86 It is after the turbocharger. I suppose it would not be incorrect to call it that, but intake air temperature seems to be convention that has been adopted. Since there is only one sensor along the intake when IAT is mentioned this is normally what is being referenced.
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This was literally the first mod I did to my 17’ GTI. Did it the first week of ownership when I bought it brand new in 2017. Due to that, I can’t say it drives differently, or that my IAT’s have changed because it was done the first week of owning the car, but I will say this:
I have driven it through three heavy, snowy UT winters, and through one very rainy summer in AZ, and I’ve had zero issues with anything getting into the intake. Even if something did get into it, the air filter would catch it before it made its way into the turbo anyways.
Same
I can tell you I did it on mine about 2yrs ago never had an issue. If you watch last human garage and a few other's have done it and never had an issue. You can also get the block off piece on passenger side to allow all air going to inlet on driver side.
There’s also a block off plate for the opposite side, and even an air route plate you can mount in the bumper to route air into it, that you can try for further testing.
This. Snag on eBay. Remove snow guard too
Link please?
Is it applicable for Audi’s also?
I did this air duct mod on my ‘16 R. Also the inlet and neuspeed discharge pipe. I also have a turbo blanket to help with temps. I did it all at the same time though so I can’t say which is best. The turbo noise is significantly louder though.
Absolutely love the detailed video! I see this channel blowing up soon!
Appreciate it🙏🏼
I just sat through the entire video, and it was very relaxing.
I had the block off plate in the air duct, but ended up removing it. I want air to hit the bay as well so I figure doing this mod might give best of both worlds.
El aire que necesita el motor le entra fundamentalmente por la rejilla, da igual que le pongas el block off o no. Simplemente el intake trabaja por aspiración y hace que esa apertura meta calor del motor al principio para proteger y aumentar la temperatura de turbo antes cuando el motor y su aceite no ha llegado a la temperatura óptima. Lo ideal sería tener un Block off plate modulable y cuando el motor llegue a su temperatura poder cerrarlo porque la admisión ya no necesita ese aire caliente, ya lo que necesita es ese aire frío. Piensa que el intake de stock tiene que trabajar en infinidad de países con climatología muy diferente de inicio de motor, y el turbo en frío es lo que más sufre si se le pisa sin temperatura. Esa pieza, block off plate, viene bien cerrarla en países muy fríos en verano, pero abrirla en invierno. En países de clima no tan frío se puede mantener cerrada. Otro tema de porque es bueno tenerla abierta en invierno es por las posibles nevadas y entrada de copos por el intake que puede llevar a que el filtro pueda coger cierta humedad y perder eficacia y ahogar la entrada de aire. Ya te digo, el intake está hecho para su función en el mundo, depende del país donde uses el coche puedes modificarlo sin preocupaciones o no. Esta última explicación es la misma por la cual la parte del conductor no viene abierta directamente de stock. Piensa en R601e, como viene montado y se supone que es para sacar rendimientos sobre stage2+ o 3. Espero haber ayudado un poco a todos.
@@josemariapugagarcia7147i live in a country that has hot summers and cold winters, should i open the closed part. Also do u think making holes / opening would make it less efficient becuase the air will be disturbed as the opening have no lines to straighten the air that is going inside?
Do u think the air disturbance would lower the efficiency compared to stock as the holes are in different sizes and that causes air disturbance
Same mode here in Sweden 🇸🇪 alot of rain and snow and no problem, also remove snow plate from air box 😃
I do it for more air, think bigger intercooler will fix temperature problems 😃
Does it affect on intake sound?
On the MK5 GTI you don't need to modify that piece because stock from VW its already vented to the outside.
appreciate those that videos with a solid effort for evidence based comparisons. Nice work.
I’d use a drimmel tool to cut full size it would probably help a bit more
There are also kits from ECS you can to channel the air better. Did this and the kit to my Mk8 GTI and the spool time is noticeably sooner
Mk4s been doing this for years. Except the webbing was removed on both sides to allow air to go directly into the engine bay and flow over the engine removing hot air
What is that COBB tool/scanner called? I love your whip as well bro. So inspiring.
Cobb accessport and thank you!
Intercooler>intake mods. Your temps are not cooling because of the intake but because of the intercooler sucking in air. Intakes have proven to make no power on this platform and are use strictly for turbo sounds and looks. Wait until your intercooler is upgraded and you start running e85 the entire car will run about 20 degrees cooler.
When you getting open exhaust so you can test the differences… you planning any mods?
Here’s an exhaust vid. Titanium catback with before/after clips ua-cam.com/video/c8NTH9HcbXg/v-deo.html
That's one pretty Step Drill Bit!!! :) What size is the Step Drill Bit? 4mm - 30mm?
Its a 1/4 - 1-3/8 inch drill bit. Link in description for inexpensive one!
@@JewelCity1 thanks bud :) great video by the way :)
Get the back plate for the passages side and do another test.
Agreed
For that cut A4 test you get a like
Are those konig ampliforms?
Yuuup
@@JewelCity1 gorgeous wheels! My two top picks for mk7 are these and enkei raijins
Nice vid man.
Do you ever get knock readings with COBB.
I have a S3 with cobb ots and even after updates
My car experiences Knock cylinders
All cylinders have -3.00
1 2 3 4 cylinders.
Car runs great.
But the knock is keeping me worried.
Any advice..
Yes, Cobb ots maps aren’t the greatest so you’ll most likely see knocks. We talk a little more about knocks in this vid, abd monitoring them. generally anything more than -3.00 is not too good ua-cam.com/video/agDOzzlS0KU/v-deo.html
@@JewelCity1 I did some reading and someone is suggesting to do a Carbon build clean before doing a downpipe and intercooler.
I've never ran the car hard @104K don't know if it's even worth it to continue to invest in it.
But I feel the motor is strong like so much potential
thanks for the video might have to give this a try soon
I feel like this would be best during winter season during summer it’ll just pull timing if it gets to the point where it’s complete hell I live in Vegas and bro my car be hitting me with the 117F
That Vegas heat is tuff
Hey bro so you make 400hp with the is38 most people say that could blow the turbo cause it can’t handle that much but the vortex can handle 400hp and more and ofc it a bit more expensive .do you ever worry you might blow the turbo??
Not really its a Is38+ and not running a maxed out tune.
Who says an oem is38 can’t handle 400hp? And are you talking about whp or crank hp?
El aire que necesita el motor le entra fundamentalmente por la rejilla, da igual que le pongas el block off o no. Simplemente el intake trabaja por aspiración y hace que esa apertura meta calor del motor al principio para proteger y aumentar la temperatura de turbo antes cuando el motor y su aceite no ha llegado a la temperatura óptima. Lo ideal sería tener un Block off plate modulable y cuando el motor llegue a su temperatura poder cerrarlo porque la admisión ya no necesita ese aire caliente, ya lo que necesita es ese aire frío. Piensa que el intake de stock tiene que trabajar en infinidad de países con climatología muy diferente de inicio de motor, y el turbo en frío es lo que más sufre si se le pisa sin temperatura. Esa pieza, block off plate, viene bien cerrarla en países muy fríos en verano, pero abrirla en invierno. En países de clima no tan frío se puede mantener cerrada. Otro tema de porque es bueno tenerla abierta en invierno es por las posibles nevadas y entrada de copos por el intake que puede llevar a que el filtro pueda coger cierta humedad y perder eficacia y ahogar la entrada de aire. Ya te digo, el intake está hecho para su función en el mundo, depende del país donde uses el coche puedes modificarlo sin preocupaciones o no. Esta última explicación es la misma por la cual la parte del conductor no viene abierta directamente de stock. Piensa en R601e, como viene montado y se supone que es para sacar rendimientos sobre stage2+ o 3. Espero haber ayudado un poco a todos. Por eso animo productor del video a que contemple la posibilidad de cerrar y poner el block off plate y hacer el mismo trabajo de medición, estoy seguro que vas a llegar a los +20 grados de diferencia sin problema. Lo pongo aquí para más visibilidad. Un saludo
Do you've a 1 year review on this mod you did?
I'm concerned about water getting into the turbo
1year later: currently running an open intake and haven’t had any issues. Doesn’t get driven in the rain often but when it does I’m not too worried. I think as long as you’re not boosting in rain wet weather it should not suck any water.
Just curious is Cobb better then a jb4 tune or is it the opposite. I wanna tuned my mk6.5 but idk which one is better
Jb4 is a piggy back calibration, so it is limited compared to Cobb. Cobb allows you to get custom tunes and tune the timing, thus squeeze more power out of the engine. Jb4 won’t allow all of that.
@@JewelCity1 oh okay I see now. Thanks bro
Is relative manifold pressure accurate for how much boost your making
It’s what boost the manifold is seeing
so what intake did you get?
Nice idea for the inlet! But speaking of the intake itself: As long as your Stage 1 a new air intake wont do much. Iv kept my original box as they say it does as well as 99.5 % of the other ones out there. Its not until you reach higher level of tunes it starts to make a differance. Personally id love to have a carbon fibre intake for the looks sake, but paying all those cash for just the looks when nobodys really gonna see it unless you pop the hood often might not be worth it, unless your showing of alot at shows and stuff. My two cents anyways 👍
that’s why I kept the stock airbox on for so long. The upcoming intake is just to get more sound
I agree with you 100% re. the performance since I ended up buying 034 carbon intake for the sound and the looks. However, I don't feel the need to show off to anyone; I do things to my car for my enjoyment and for no one else. It does make me check fluid levels more often :D
Just put my stock intake back on. No difference. Upgrade the inter cooler.
3:45
That intake sounds familiar 👀👀
Is the IAT sensor on your car pre turbo?
It's inside the intake manifold.
@@mygolfmk7209please correct me if I'm wrong but wouldnt that be charge air temp at the IM?
@@plumski86 It is after the turbocharger. I suppose it would not be incorrect to call it that, but intake air temperature seems to be convention that has been adopted. Since there is only one sensor along the intake when IAT is mentioned this is normally what is being referenced.
@@mygolfmk7209 got it.. thank you! 🤙🏿
@@mygolfmk7209 that sensors refresh rate must be super fast. 👍🏼
Der luftmassen Messer regelt sowieso nach. Also quatsch. Habe mit vielen kfz meistern gesprochen.
Ihm geht's nicht um die Menge an Luft sondern um die Temperatur.
@@Sinister_Joe möglich. Man muss sich ja deswegen nicht streiten. Alles gut!!!
@@andydefrain8955 No Stress! Schönen Abend dir! :)
@@Sinister_Joe dito :) Danke
subbed! I hope one day I will own mk7 gti. GTI > R all dayy :p
Thanks for watching!
Your stance is too clean it's unfair
Thanks haha
Nice video 😊