End Grain Cutting Board with Multiple Inlays. Skol Vikings!
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
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This cutting board was made using Hard Maple Hardwood.
The inlays were made from:
Oak
Black Walnut
Sapele Mahogany
Osage Orange
Viking design created by Bohdan Petrushko
petrushko_bohdan
/ petrushkobohdan
/ @bogdanpetrushko3425
boordon@gmail.com
My CNC Machine:
Onefinity Elite Journeyman: www.onefinityc...
4th Axis Rotary that I use: amzn.to/42lSmVj
J-Tech 44W Laser: www.onefinityc...
Dog Hole holding clamps: amzn.to/42zWbqp
Bits used for Vcarve Inlays:
5.15 Deg Tapered Angle Ball Tip Radius=0.25mm X 6mm Shank: amzn.to/3NsHNZG
Same bit as above but with a 1/4" Shank: amzn.to/3UluX4t
1/8" up-cut end mill: amzn.to/3NxAjo6
Bits used for Rotary Milling: amzn.to/3SChbt3
Sanding discs assortment pack-amzn.to/3DGcVjL
3M 80grit to 320grit assortment. Highly recommend! - amzn.to/44KvIql
Sand sponges - amzn.to/450WCK6
Other affordable tools that I highly recommend!
Band Clamps: amzn.to/3ud5JdW
Router: amzn.to/48TlBBy
Table Saw Miter Gauge with Fence: amzn.to/4bieLa9
Belt and Spindle Sander: amzn.to/3Yt9zKV
Small but effective Laser Engraver: amzn.to/4aZD8cz
My video gear:
Davinci Resolve Pro: amzn.to/3NYxGxa
Insta360 GO3 Action Cam: amzn.to/48TkyBC
Sony ZV-E10: amzn.to/3pzAUxQ
SmallRig Camera Cage: amzn.to/43czmaC
Tamron 17-70mm lens: amzn.to/434s7Sc
Thanks for this video! I have done a few basic cutting board inlays but never ones like this. The detail work is my next level and I’m hoping this will help me.
You sir are a true artist. I’ve had my cnc for about two months and I’m loving it but also beginning to understanding how complicated and thought involved it is. Great videos as well!
Beautiful work
Beautiful looking work. Thanks for coming to Mark Lindsay's channel and your insights allowed me to complete my 1st. Thank you
Excellent info, love the design and inlay.
thats the best use of a clamping guide i've ever seen
Another beautiful piece, Scott but I believe the word you were looking for is school. The bald guy and I are impressed with your work.
Thank you sir!!
Amazing work! I think I transcribed the numbers you described accurately (but I added a pre-clearing path for underpowered hobby machines like mine). Did I get the numbers right? And did I understand that you use engraving and not v-carve toolpaths?
Pocket
Start .00
Flat Depth .25
Plug
Clearing 1
Start .00
Flat Depth .25
Clearing2
Start .25
Flat Depth .1
(Total .35)
Finishing
Start .25
Flat Depth .01
I use a vcarve toolpath.
I list my tapered ballnose as an engraving bit in Vectric.
Your 'Clearing2' pass is not necessary. I ONLY did that for the video to create a visual reference to explain the difference between START DEPTH and FLAT DEPTH.
Your other numbers look fine.
Please do a test on scrap wood before cutting on good wood!
Good luck!
Nice work. My high school mascot was a Viking too. Question: How are you setting up the tool path to carve away the excess plug material after the glue up? I assume you're using a pocketing tool path with zero depth and zeroing off the top of the cutting board?
That is exactly what I do.
If you worry that the surface of the board has warped or moved after gluing in the inlays, maybe set your Z height 10-thou higher than the surface of the board and then let your very last surface pass be level with the surface of the board.
Thank you for watching!
@@MandSWoodworks I live in Eastern Oklahoma so warpage is always a concern. Thanks for the info and keep the videos coming.
I wish fusion had a decent way to do inlays. I can't afford V-carve or Aspire anytime soon. board looks nice!
Do the inlays need to be end grain as well? Or will they carve just as well into face grain or edge grain?
Yes, both the base and the inlay is end grain.
No, end grain carves light years better than face/edge/side grain.
Side grain is very difficult to get small details without tearing out.
End grain is much more forgiving.
And, no. I would not mix and match end grain to side grain.
Over time as the wood moves (Expands and contracts) you risk it separating from each other.
I hope that this helps.
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the video. Where can I get more info on how to prepare and image for inlays? I'm having issues with one of mine, and I'm thinking it may be the image I downloaded. Thanks!
I honestly don't know of a resource with definitive information about how to prepare images and vectors for inlays.
With most things in this hobby, you either have to find a half witted video like this one, or figure it out on your own.
I know this isn't a great answer, but it's really the truth.
Thank you for watching!
I thought mineral oil was a no-no for food-grade applications
Mineral oil is great. Food safe. Some people drink mineral oil for stomach upset.
Nice job. Thanks for the video.
@gorak9000
You might be thinking of something else.
Mineral oil has been a food safe standard for cutting boards for as long as I can remember.
Your new subscriber here... now here's an idea.... cut out picture examples on a board that explained all that start and stop end depths. Like a cross section slice of how the depth heights relate to inlay cutting. I know Derek would try to do one better 😂😂😂😂
Brother can you show me how you have the tapered ball nose set up in vectric pls
I enter the TBN as an engraving bit.
But beware, I have had dozens of folks ask me this question and they'll change the bit settings only for some to have success and others failures.
There is way more to it than just the toolpath.
The vector image that you use, and how it's prepared to use in your toolpaths is a huge factor, not to mention other things like machine setup, etc.
Please do test cuts on scrap and decide what cut settings are best for you, because if you use mine expecting perfection, you might be disappointed.
Good luck and thank you for watching!
@@MandSWoodworks thank you for your response. I needed to know if you are entering the exact bit measurements as far as bit radius and angle... A screenshot would really help or if you just want to type in the info here
@@MandSWoodworks and yes I always will do a test to see what the results are
Thank you for not forgetting me) Very cool work. I will be wait our new projects
Thanks buddy!!
Great board and even better walk thru of what you do and why. Thank you.
at 7:24 I have not seen probing done that way on a OneFinity. What probing routing are you using? That would make it ridiculously easy zero off any corner instead of what I do (use a 123 block and the built in zero for front left on the block). Can you provide the probe routine, a link, reference, etc? (Is it an elite 1F? I am running their original buildbotics controller)
Thank you!
I don't have the elite upgrade but I did buy the Masso controller and steppers straight from Masso and upgraded it myself.
The Masso allows for several comprehensive probing routines that the stock Onefinity controller does not, including the way you see me zero X and Y.
I use the Onefinity probing block as a bit setter now and I had the probing block you see on the video custom made for my needs.
And yes, you are correct.
In my opinion, Zeroing from the center is more precise and repeatable, and it is definitely quicker. 🙂
I hope this answered your question.
Thank you for watching!
Been so so so busy lately. Getting back to some projects and this was a great watch as always. Thank you for taking the time to do this. Both the videos and projects you do.
I see you’re using some pressure clamps to push against the PVC instead of just the angle boards. Whose are they? I like that.
I found them on Amazon.
They only work well with heavy stuff, otherwise I only use them by clamping then against the wooden wedges to keep from backing out on aggressive cuts.
Thank you for the compliment!
Here's an Amazon link to the clamps.
amzn.to/3Xnzt3U
Amazing work, just curious how you found out who to use for the artwork and how much do they charge. I would love to learn to do this kind of inlay but I’m already learning 3 separate softwares right now so there is no way to learn adobe illustrator on top of it! 😅
Bohdan is the same guy that Broinwood uses. Broinwood always puts Bohdan's contact info in the description of his videos, so I contacted him from that.
You're going to spend over $100 in some cases if you hire a graphic artist to create a custom graphic.
Good luck!
outstanding level to detail :)
So you set your tapered ball nose end mill as an engraving bit? Then run as a v-carve cut?
That is correct
Couldn’t you use the new carve inlay in V12 with a TBN entered as a Vbit?
Not in my experience.
A vbit doesn't have a flat tip like that Engraving bit does.
I don't understand the physics with each bit type but the behavior between a tbn and an engraving bit is very different.
Hmm. Because in Broinwoods course he enters his TBN in as a Vbit not engraving.
I've never seen his course but I have tried entering the TBN as a vbit and using it as a TBN and I could not get either of them to work properly. The only success that I have ever had was changing the bit type to an Engraving bit.
If he does use it as a Vbit, I would like to know how exactly he gets it to work.
The reason being is because when entering it as a vbit, Vectric considers the vbit to have an infinite tip and an Engraving bit has a flat tip.
When creating a toolpath using a vbit, Vectric will assume that the tip comes to a point and it will cut along the vectors as such. If the bit actually has a flat tip of any size, then it will not cut along the vector accurately.
If you happen to know for a fact that showing it as a vbit bit, I am sincerely curious how you do it. I have never claimed my way is THE way, it's just a way that I figured out on my own.
And another thing to consider is that my method, I shoot for a zero glue gap. Other methods allow for loose tolerances and will usually always have some sort of glue gap.
Can we get a link to the podcast you did with Mark? I'm not finding it on his channel.
It isn't public. The show I was on was for only his members. He wants me to come on for his public Sunday show in the very near future.
It doesn't get any nicer than that! Beautiful !!
Is tear out ever a roblem when surfacing the end grain?
Not often, but it does indeed happen.
Usually on softer woods like Black Walnut, it will have a tendency to tear our during surfacing if I run it too aggresively.
Thank you for watching!
Beautiful work! I also upgraded to V12 (Aspire) and so far I'm a bit underwhelmed. I sure hope they listen and make some improvements to the new inlay tool path to better accommodate deep inlay carving.
Trying to understand what you did, I get you did sperate tools paths in the video.
Can I use the V-Carve / Engraving toolpath for the tapered ball nose and use 1/8" endmill as the clearance tool?
V-Carve toolpath
Female Pocket
1/8" end mill
Clearing 1
Start .00
Flat Depth .25
TB - Cleaning edges up
Pocket
Start .00
Flat Depth .25
--------------
Male Plug
VCave / Engraving pocket tool path
1/8" end mill
Clearing 1
Start .25
Flat Depth .1
TB - Cleaning edges up
Finishing
Start .25
Flat Depth .1
----------------------------------------
Or do I create sperate tool paths
Pocket
1/8" end mill
Clearing 1
Start .25
Flat Depth .1
TB - Cleaning edges up
Pocket
Finishing
Start .25
Flat Depth .01
Thanks
The cut I made in this video was merely an example to show what the Flat Depth setting dictates when you make the inlay/plug cut.
It wasn't intended to suggest that you should use it as a cut setting for all inlays that you cut.
I typically set the flat depth for the plug at around 0.01" and not the 0.1" that I used in the video.
To answer your question:
First it's important to add, and I have mentioned it in most of my inlay videos, that please don't take my cut settings as the end all-be all of inlay cut settings. Use my settings as a starting point to figure out what works for you.
Test these out on cheap Pine and/or MDF to make sure you are achieving what you want before cutting into expensive hardwood.
Use a Vcarve/Engraving toolpath for the pocket and the plug.
Use your engraving bit as the main bit, and enable the "Use Clearance Tools" feature of the tool path and choose whatever end mill that you wish to use for that.
For the pocket: 0.0" Start Depth - 0.25" Flat Depth
For the inlay/plug: 0.25" Start Depth - 0.01" Flat Depth
You need to specify the Tapered Ball Nose as an Engraving bit in the Vectric Tool Database, otherwise your inlay could fail.
Also, have a look at this video I published about how to edit your vectors to achieve successful inlays. This is just as important as bit settings.
ua-cam.com/video/vcMlwmSWpCc/v-deo.html
I hope that this helps.
Thank you for watching!
Your content is so relaxing to watch and listen to. Loving the content, sir
I have been told that my videos would make a great cure for insomnia. Ha!
Thank you for watching!
There is no limit stopping one from using a tapered ball nose bit in Aspire. I do it all the time with great results. I have no idea why you would use the engraving mode to do inlays. I always make my inlays .3" deep and use a plug start depth of .25" and a flat depth of .05". I don't see the need to have a large glue gap like most folks use. I just finished a board the other day with these setting and it came out perfect. BTY I'm using Aspire 10.5.
With respect...
You must have not watched my other inlay videos.
I always shoot for zero glue gap on most of my inlays. There are some cuts where a glue gap is acceptable, but most of the time my goal is to have the inlay plug completely seat against the floor of the pocket.
Regarding your use of a Tapered Ball Nose and leaving it assigned as such in Vectric:
Are you using the INLAY tool path in Vectric to cut your inlays or are you using the VCARVE tool path to do the VCARVE INLAY TECHNIQUE?
The reason why I ask is because using a Tapered Ball Nose bit in a Vcarve Toolpath and it be assigned as a Tapered Ball Nose in the Tool Database will result in a very different behavior when cutting the Inlay/Plug portion of the Inlay. I know this from experience.
I would be very interested to see an example of your inlays where you have cut it the way you describe in your comment above.
I have a suspicion that you are not using a Vcarve Tool Path, but instead the Inlay Tool Path in Vectric.
I sincerely hope that I don't come off as condescending because that truly isn't how I mean to make it sound, but I have extensive experience with this, and having tried assigning the bit as a TBN has resulted in colossal failures for me.
If you have figured out a different method I would sincerely like to know what it is.
Thank you for watching!
@@MandSWoodworks What is your email address so I can share pictures and files.
@@MandSWoodworks What kind of issues are you having using the TBN bits in vcarve?
@@MandSWoodworks I stumble onto this video that uses the same basic procedure as I do, the only difference is I use a start depth of 0.0" and a flat depth of 0.05" on the first toolpath then a start depth of 0.25" and flat of 0.3" for the final. Here is a link to the video: ua-cam.com/video/_eupkJk-EAU/v-deo.html
Table saw jointer guide is a brilliant idea. Thanks for sharing.
Glorious work as usual! I really like this one.
Thanks buddy!
I plan for my next video to be about the Dragon and Tiger that I discussed with you.
love the clamping guide idea. beautiful work
I was also on that pod cast when you were explaining this and it came out just fine. You do awesome work.
Hello friend, what software do you use to make or draw your designs and what is the brand of your router Cnc ???
Thank you for your videos, they are very interesting and useful, I really appreciate it.
🤝🏻
I use Vcarve Pro to create the projects and then to create the tool paths.
Thank you for watching!
ok thanks and then with that same software you make the tool paths so It is also used for machining ??
Thanks my friend !!!
@@danielrdz003
That is correct.
Vcarve is in fact a CAD/CAM software where you can create designs and then create tool paths for those designs.
@@MandSWoodworks
Ok, I'll investigate to start using it, the software looks friendly, can you learn to use it yourself or do you have to take an online course?
I already asked you many questions my friend, I apologize, I don't want to make you uncomfortable, but the truth is that I am interested and I thank you for having your channel and for sharing your content and for your patience, your channel is very helpful because we learn new things I appreciate it.
👍🏻🤝🏻
@@danielrdz003
I'm glad to help.
No, you don't "need" to take a course.
It's very user friendly.
But there are tons of UA-cam videos on the subject to get you started.
Check out Mark Lindsay here on UA-cam.
His channel is based around Vcarve tutorials. It's a great resource to learn from.
That is a very nice cutting board. You did a great job on it. Thanks for the video. You make it look easy. I do not have a CNC machine yet but am seriously considering getting one. Some might say that I am too old for this sort of stuff, but my reply is, I'm ONLY 78, so why not try something new. Thanks again and keep up the good work. May the Lord continue to bless you.
Age is just a number!
Get that machine and get to cutting!
God Bless you as well!
Thanks for the honest opinion of V 12. I was on the fence about upgrading from 11.5, I believe I'll wait now .
I sincerely hated to say that in public, but it's the truth. They could have done so much more but they fell short, IMHO.
Thank you for watching!
How do you handle corners? Do you leave them sharp or add a radius?
It varies on the board, and my mood at the time. Ha!
Sometimes I will run a router with a round over bit over them.
On this board, I just sanded them down enough to soften them up and take the sharp edges off.
I intentionally left the footage of me sanding out of the video because I always thought it was boring and nobody cared.
And now here you are with a question about sanding. Lol.
Thank you for watching!
Hi, I was asking about the corners in the inlay vs the board pocket. Sorry
Ha! I was wondering where you sanding was. I may be one of a few, but sanding is cathartic for me.
@@marcellobellon5666
Oh!
That also depends on the situation. If the corners have very narrow angles then I will most likely round them off to prevent issues with the inlay fitting in the pocket. But if the angle is broad enough I'll leave the sharp edge in.
I hope I answered your question.
Thank you, I use Fusion 360 to draw and cut my work, I’ve been adding the tool tip radius to all my corners. Lots of time drawing.
Beautiful Cutting Board!
Really nice work
Looks great
Would love to chew the fat sometime. I'm trying to sort all this inlay stuff out in my head