Відео

Now where the heck were you when I was trying to solve this? During my testing, I actually took the acceleration up to 1000, but I didn't see any noticeable improvement, not to mention I have always been of the understanding that you don't want to increase acceleration anymore than 3 times the default value. But to test your suggestion I went out to my shop and increased it to 3000, and tried another material test. Now I am seeing no difference above 700inches/min, but at least that is progress! When I have the time, I will test again and raise the acceleration a bit more to see what I can squeeze out of it. But I am of the mind that might be too fast because of how heavy the laser head is. But even if it is, 700ipm ain't bad! Thank you for commenting! I will pin this comment in hopes that someone who needs it will see it. Thank you for watching!!

The cut I made in this video was merely an example to show what the Flat Depth setting dictates when you make the inlay/plug cut. It wasn't intended to suggest that you should use it as a cut setting for all inlays that you cut. I typically set the flat depth for the plug at around 0.01" and not the 0.1" that I used in the video. To answer your question: First it's important to add, and I have mentioned it in most of my inlay videos, that please don't take my cut settings as the end all-be all of inlay cut settings. Use my settings as a starting point to figure out what works for you. Test these out on cheap Pine and/or MDF to make sure you are achieving what you want before cutting into expensive hardwood. Use a Vcarve/Engraving toolpath for the pocket and the plug. Use your engraving bit as the main bit, and enable the "Use Clearance Tools" feature of the tool path and choose whatever end mill that you wish to use for that. For the pocket: 0.0" Start Depth - 0.25" Flat Depth For the inlay/plug: 0.25" Start Depth - 0.01" Flat Depth You need to specify the Tapered Ball Nose as an Engraving bit in the Vectric Tool Database, otherwise your inlay could fail. Also, have a look at this video I published about how to edit your vectors to achieve successful inlays. This is just as important as bit settings. ua-cam.com/video/vcMlwmSWpCc/v-deo.html I hope that this helps. Thank you for watching!

You know, I have heard that the old southern drawl is only separated a few degrees from an English accent due to colonization back in the day by English settlers and it has evolved into what we have today. So there is obviously a kinship there. ;) And yes, I can relate to the 'Escape". My shop is where I turn the world off, (mostly) and find a bit of peace. Good luck in your endeavors and thank you so much for watching! Cheers!

I use a press, but it is neither vacuum or hydraulic. Check out my latest video and I show it in action. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks very nice and simple. I like it. I just don’t have room for something that big in my tiny 2 car garage. I ordered a vacuum press system. Something I can fold up and put way when I do t need it and is flexible for small and large jobs.

Thank you! Yes, I am aware of being able to split up the tool paths to alleviate the aggressive plunge, but I find that is just as time consuming, if not more time consuming than just slowing the feeds and speeds down for a normal inlay plug tool path. Thank you for watching!

@@martingaydarov I've tried the fillet tool with mixed results. It doesn't trim just the area you are wanting to manipulate but a large portion of the vector and if you have enough tight angles like in my example in the video, it'll change it so much that it doesn't keep the original shape. I know my way is more tedious, but you stay in control and not lose a lot of detail. Thank you for the compliment and thank you for watching!

No, cut quality has never been an issue for any of the bits I have used. Though they do get dull after extended use. It's important to understand that the narrow angled bits aren't true v-groove or vbits. The narrowest angle that I have found in a vbit is 30 degrees. The narrow angled bits that are tapered ball nose or engraving bits don't have an infinite tip like a vbit. They have a flat tip and behave differently than a Vbit does. I have seen some 15 degree bits called "V-Groove" but they have a flat tip on them and fail at inlays if you have them specified as a vbit in Vectric. I have them specified as engraving bits in my settings. If you know of a 15 degree that is a true vbit with an infinite tip, please share because I would be very interested to try it. Yes, I use the Vcarve toolpath for the base and inlay cuts. Thank you for watching!

Thank you! I don't make them to sell. My setup isn't very efficient for manufacturing and it makes it very time consuming. But I'm flattered that you would ask. :) Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks I understand, thank You for sharing your amazing craft.

From start to finish, including building the board and the inlay blanks for the carvings, it took me about a week and a half. I have a regular job and can only work on these in my spare time, so if I could dedicate uninterrupted time to completing it, I could get that time down to a week or a little less. A lot of the time it takes is waiting on glue to dry. I like for the glue to set for 24 hours before I remove it from the press and start another cut. I use the old Vcarve inlay technique using the Vcarve Toolpath. I have tried the new Vcarve Inlay toolpath in version 12, but I am not a fan. It's very limited and the workflow in creating the toolpaths wasn't thought out very well, in my opinion. My machine is the Onefinity Journeyman. It isn't the Elite series, but is does have the Masso upgrade installed. I did it myself by purchasing the components direct from MASSO. Thank you for watching!

I actually purchased the image of the Shark holding the sign off of Etsy. I think I paid $3 for it. I created the text in Vcarve, Thank you for the compliment and thank you for watching!!

Well... You would have to fight my daughter for it, and she's feisty! 😁 Thank you for watching!

Ok. I respect your opinion. You had the guts to post this comment, let's see if you have the guts to answer a question from me. Why do you not consider this woodworking? It's worth noting that you aren't the first person to ever post a comment like this and I always ask them why they think so, but they never answer, which leaves me to believe they are pathetic trolls and don't know why it's not woodworking. So, are you someone who understands CNC operation, and what it takes to produce something like this and you are basing you opinion from that? Or are you just another UA-cam Troll?

@@tobedetermined4180 please post a link to your woodworking projects. Make sure you haven't used any tools like a table saw, band saw and/or any other tools. A CNC is just another tool used to create.

I always say that Michelangelo would have used an Air Chisel if he had one, but his buddy Da Vinci just hadn't invented it yet. This inlay technique allows for beautiful projects that I dare say could not be produced without a CNC, or at least would take YEARS of training to perfect without one.

I would take your concerns up with the person that forced you to watch the video.

This comment is completely off-base. It’s clear that the person who said this has no real understanding of woodworking or any hands-on experience. Woodworking is literally about crafting with wood. Before you make comments on topics you aren’t familiar with, it’s better to hold back and avoid spreading misinformation

You can, but it is harder to do. It's very difficult to get the small details in Face grain without having tear out. So much so, I don't even try anymore. It's real pain. I once read a comment that Broinwood made about the Face Grain inlay he did of the Headless Horseman that he created and he said it was so tedious that he wouldn't do it again. I've only done small projects with Face Grain and I would again if I had to, but I wouldn't dare attempt a project the size of this cutting board. It would be too aggravating. End Grain panels/Boards are indeed more expensive and time consuming to make, but the end result when doing carvings make it well worth the time and trouble. I hope that I answered your questions. Thank you for watching!!

These aren't stupid questions, I assure you. 1. You are correct. End grain is King for 2 reasons: (1)- Because End Grain cutting boards are considered premium cutting boards because they are very knife friendly. A knife will dull very easily on Face grain, but will stay sharp by cutting on End Grain. (2) Yes, End Grain carving is tons more forgiving than cutting Face grain. You can't get smaller details in face grain without a lot of tear out. Once you have carved in End Grain, you'll see what I mean. It's night and day difference. 2. Again, End grain is more forgiving on the bit was well, especially on the deep plunges. You can still break a bit in a heartbeat if you push it too hard, but End Grain is easier on the bit. To be safe, I only run about 30 to 40ipm when doing an Inlay/Plug cut. Any faster and they will break, even in End Grain. I hope this answers your questions. Thank you for watching!

I'll be honest, I don't remember what font that I used except for the font on the sign in the shark's mouth and that was Comic Sans. I just type out what I want it to say, and surf through the Fonts until I see one I like and choose it without looking at the name of the font. And I instantly convert them to curves so I have no way of backtracking to see what I used. Sorry that I can't be of more help. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks all good, thank u tho! I tried doing text recently for an inlay and went horrible so this really helps and what u just explain helps even more! Thank u! Always great videos!

Honestly, this was the first project I have used the Spetool on, so it was kind of a test. I like the bit and I will continue using them, but admittedly I noticed that they aren't quite as sharp as others I have used in the past. I had a bit more cleanup afterwards after cutting the pockets and inlay plugs. But this might be a spindle speed issue. I plan to test it some more and see if by speeding up the spindle RPM if it doesn't help some. Yes, I have used several of the Amana bits in the past and I wasn't happy with them. They don't stay sharp any longer than the cheaper bits, at 4 times the price. They are all fragile though, and you have to be very careful, especially when doing the inlay plug with the aggressive start depth. I don't push mine any faster than 30 to 40ipm on the feed speed and I have had good luck. I might have a tip break off every now and then , but it's rare and only when I am cutting into very dense hardwood. And they all dull quicker than I'd like. I usually retire a bit after every 2 projects, and sometimes after every project depending on how heavy I used them. That's why I buy them in packs of 4. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks Thanks so much for the quick reply. I'll give the SpeTool a try. It's a heck of a price.

Also, I've had just the opposite experience with the more expensive Amana bits. I've done 5-6 boards with several inlays each and still using the same bit. I've found they work better if I cut full depth with them and don't use step downs. (in my case, 0.25 on the female, and 0.35 on the male parts).

Thank you for the compliment! Can you give me more details of your problem? My cut depths are 1/4" deep. When you say that you are trying for these depths, are you meaning that you don't know what settings to enter to get 1/4" deep? Or are you achieving the depth, but the inlays aren't fitting together properly?

@@MandSWoodworks I am using v-carve pro. Amanda 46280 6.2 deg bit. I have an OpenBuilds 1010 machine with a Dewalt DWE 611 router. I have tried several times to make a 1/8” & 1/4” deep inlay using Maple, Cherry and Walnut. I have measured the pocket and the plug after being cut. The pocket is at the desired depth, but my plugs are all over the place. After the plug is done and cleaned from fibers, I try to test fit the plug and pocket. The plug is way too big and if it goes in, it only goes in 1/2 way. I just saw where you are editing your work to the bit tip first. I have two big boards to make and I am in need of some guidance.