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Sadly no. I have never been one to make or write plans, and I just made the cuts as I go. Here's what I did... I found a free STEP file for a baby cradle on GrabCad, and I changed up some of the features to suit my tastes, using Fusion 360. Once I had it like I wanted, I just exported svg's of the sketches and used those to make the cut files in Vcarve. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!

Thank you! The Marvel Calendar can be downloaded for free from Thingiverse. www.thingiverse.com/thing:2667674/files Thank you for watching!

@@etsarse2 This is one of my very first videos. My video production skills have improved a bit since then. At least I hope folks think so. 😁 Thank you for the feedback and thank you for watching! 🙂

Thank you! Yes to the settings, but be careful with the 0.01" Flat Depth on your first inlay until you verify that your machine is accurate. It could cause the inlay to not seat properly into the pocket. Try a Flat Depth of 0.1" or at least 0.05" first to make sure it turns out ok. Yes, I would have a glue gap for Face Grains to make sure there is room for the glue since it won't soak into the wood as easily as it does on End Grain. I don't think mixing End Grain and Face Grain is a good idea, because they will expand and contract in different ways and directions, and over time the inlay could un-seat inside the pocket, causing gaps at the seam. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks thank you for the response. look forward to seeing your next projects. Cheers!

Thank you! Go for it! Epoxy inlays are second on my list of favorite inlays. :) Thank you for watching!

Thank you! This is an Amazon link to the foil I used. But be warned, it's pricey! amzn.to/427vXgL Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks Thank you! Yes, that is pricy. ut you get a fair amount. I am just starting out, engraver is on it's way so I am doing research and learning.

@@MandSWoodworks Oh, I purchased the Falcon2 40W. I hope, using Precision mode, I can get the same detail as the 22W. I think the 40 is the best of both worlds. I think. Your opinion?

@donaldchapman8392 I think you made a fine choice. It's a very capable laser engraver and you should my happy with it. I only pointed out a couple of things that disappointed me about the machine, but they aren't anything to keep you from creating some great stuff. The laser head is fantastic and you should get very fine detail from it. Good luck with it and Merry Christmas to you!

@@MandSWoodworks Thanks for your time and comments. Have a very Merry Christmas.

Thank you so much! And thank you for watching!

Thank you! When doing inlays, you can usually toss a feeds and speeds chart out the window. I usually use 40ipm on the feed and 16k RPM on the spindle speed. Thank you for watching!

@@dieselbpmc Maybe not. But at least I'm not a troll. 🙂 Thank you for watching!

Thank you for the comment.

What Vcarve? I am assuming you are asking what bit I am using to do the Vcarve? I am using a different bit now than I used in this video. here is an Amazon link. amzn.to/3DlNCqn I use a press to clamp my inlays after gluing. Check out some of my other inlay videos and I show it there. Thank you for watching!

The advantage to me is that it allows for more clamping options depending on the dimensions of the workpiece you are trying to secure. For example: On my spoil board, the hole pattern puts each dog hole spaced at a little over 3 inches. If the edge of the workpiece was too close to a dog hole to allow for a clamp/wedge, then the next available dog hole would be over 3 inches away. But by having them offset, I now have an available dog hole that is only 1.5 inches away. So I have more clamping options, but with fewer dog holes to cut into the wasteboard. I hope that made sense. Thank you for watching!

Thank you for saying that! I guess I gave the impression that the machine was unusable considering some of the responses I have received. But it wasn't my intentions at all. The machine is a decent laser engraver and it would be a great first machine for those that are starting out. I was merely expressing my disappointment in that it would not reach the advertised speeds, and the tuning that was necessary out of the box, which admittedly wasn't that big of a deal. Thank you for watching!

Nicely done! Unfortunately I don't have Aspire, just Vcarve Pro, but thank you for the offer! I made a video of me making a complete Chess set, check it out if you're interested. ua-cam.com/video/N_qa-iqUISM/v-deo.html Thank you for watching!

Thank you sir! I ended up finishing it with Rubios, but I will check out Emmets. Thank you for the suggestion and thank you for watching!

I do in fact, understand how acceleration works, I just didn't mention it in the video. Check out the conversation that I have pinned at the top of this comment section. There is more info there on what I came up with. Thank you for watching!

@@McPhil277 Hi Phil! S, here. Thank you for the kind words and thank you so much for watching! And most importantly, thank you for your 35 years as an educator! Enjoy your retirement and that rotary! ~Scott

Unfortunately, I didn't draw plans for this. I'm that guy. I generally make it up as I go. I don't know how relevant a video would be now that Onefinity has released their own rotary attachment. I would imagine that most folks would rather purchase a plug and play solution than to pieced together a Frankenstein like this. But I will consider it! Thank you so much for watching!

I have been using these bits lately with good success. amzn.to/4guhFuZ Thank you for watching!

@MandSWoodworks thank you for putting your videos out and thank you for the link

Thank you for the thought provoking and profoundly constructive feedback! And thank you for watching!

As the title of the video states, it's the 4th axis. 🙂

@ I was asking bc I thought I saw it moving while cutting, which would have made it 5th axis.

@@burnsm2012 No, it just rotates. A 5th axis would allow the rotary chuck to pan or rotate up and/or down along the Z axis. The Masso controller is capable of a 5th axis setup but you would have to sacrifice one of the Y axis stepper motors. The 5th axis would be assigned to what is designated as "B" axis on the Masso controller, but to allow for 2 stepper motors on the Y axis, one of those motors is assigned to the "B" axis as a slave channel to the Y axis. I hope that made sense and I answered your question. Than you for watching!

@@iwannaapple7190 Masso has a bit setter function to measure bit length after tool changes, but it can't use the same probing block used to set zero. So I use the old Onefinity probe block for the bit setter function and I bought a completely different type of block to use for zero-ing origin. It's a game changer. 🙂 Thank you for watching!

You can say 1/100th. 0.01 is 0.001 ten times, so 10 thousands of an inch. To-may-to / To-mah-to. I know a few machinist and I have to stop and do some quick math when discussing measurements with them. What you and I would call 1/2 inch or 0.5 inches, they would say 5 hundred thousandths. 😁 Thank you for watching! 🙂

@@MandSWoodworks Dang - I should have listened closer! Thanks for the quick response. The video is great and very helpful!

Sometimes on very light pieces, in which case I use the double sided tape. I do a lot of cutting boards and they tend to be fairly heavy so lifting isn't ever a problem. Thank you for watching!

Thank you for the kind words, and the best of luck to you!

I agree that a lot of issues experience with new machines are operator error, but the main complaint I had was that it wouldn't operate as fast as they advertised, which in my opinion is a bad deal for folks shopping for a machine with particular capabilities. It seems as if diode lasers are improving and becoming more powerful lately by the minute. Which is a good thing, but if the drive system can't keep up with a laser head's power, I don't think you are gaining very much. Thank you for the input and thank you for watching!!

Yes, I get your point re the speed. Something that annoys me is that the majority of lasers advertised on social platforms like Facebook and Instagram use drastically speeded up footage of items being engraved. An example is a 3d engraved slate coaster. Something like that can take up to 9 hours laser time to complete, but they never mention that fact. If you ask them how long it took they skirt around the answer and don't like disclosing time taken. I wonder how many people have bought them and being massively disappointed. I haven't tried any inlay work yet, but after seeing yours I must give it a try. It looks so good.

@@froudster I have both a Diode (Falcon 2 40w) and a cheap Chinese K40 CO2 laser and knock out 2D slate coasters in minutes. 3D is challenging and not sure that slate is a good medium for that. Seems 3D'ing slate is more the exception and would confuse newbies and it doesn't hold up as a complaint against the machines.

Thank you! Rotary clamps? I assume you're talking about the jaws of the chuck? Mine centers fairly accurately. Maybe try swapping out your 3 jaw chuck for a 4 jaw? Thank you for watching!

​@@MandSWoodworksyes you're right, maybe I will give a try with a 4 type, rare cases when I need rotary is to engraving on perfect aluminium tubes , so 0,2 mm out of center would be too much.. thanks

It was very simple. I didn't modify the press at all. I just added the ply sheets to it. I laminated a few ply sheets together to make the press plates and mounted them to the upper and lower press gantries. I can remove the ply plates and have it as a working shop press again in just a few minutes, as well as putting it all back together. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!