Ultimate Bee CNC Mechanical Kit First Impressions Review
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- Опубліковано 29 гру 2022
- I give a brief walk through of the Bulkman3d.com Ultimate Bee Mechanical Kit
I've been working on machines for quite a while, but I'm pretty new to making video reviews; so please be kind.
I am not sponsored by any brand pictured or mentioned in this video.
Thank you sir! Looking foward to seeing Archie devour aluminum and hard woods. All the best for 2023.
I am working on a hardwood project. I'm still coming up with an aluminum cutting idea.
Perfect timing just ordered my kit a few days ago. Thanks for your overview and call outs. Glad to hear my purchase for my little shop will hopefully work out.
I have all kinds of questions even though having watched countless hours of cnc videos. I built a RS-CNC two years ago but due to life never got to use it before the 3D printed parts broke.
Topic for videos:
- What attachments do you have? (dust boot, air assist, bit touch plate, etc.)
- What bits to you use? (type for job, sizes, etc.)
- What speeds are you getting out of the unit? (material types, recommended starting points)
- What software are you using? (seems like Mach3 or 4 but are there any others you have used that do the job)
- What controller are you using? (I have all kinds of 3d Printer boards but not sure if dedicated controller is better)
No worries about the videography skills I appreciate the comments and feedback.
This looks pretty solid
My 7575 Ultimate B kit literally just arrived from Bulkman. Everything was packed and protected really well. So far, I’m very impressed. Will start the build next week. In terms of a detailed review, how are you driving the rig and what’s your electrical set up looking like?
I'll post my drive setup! It's uploading right now.
which Software / Controller u use? and which spindle u went for? Thanks for Info!
Thank you, much appreciated.
Thanks for your videos. I am trying to figure out what I need to add to a mechanical kit to get to a full running system. I am considering the 2.4Nm NEMA 23 motors. I have drivers and power supplies and a controller already from my existing system. I am thinking that all I need to add is a spindle; does that sound right?
Thank you for watching!
It sounds to me like you need what you think you need. Limit Switches if they aren't in your current controller package. You will need to provide a spoilboard and work holding in your plan, but the parts for that can be obtained at one's local lumber,l hardware, or wood worker's supply. Good luck with your build!
Hi, thanks for the video and all the information. I have the Ultimate bee 750x750 with grbl high current controller. Whats your suggestion on the feed rate (mm/min) I should use with 6mm end mills and smaller on hardwoods like oak, teak, mahogany etc. ?
Speeds, feeds and depth of cut are difficult to give good advice for. General advice is start with a little faster speed on the spindle than you think you might need and maybe a little slower cutting feed rate than you think you might need. Try to make chips instead of dust. Cut more shallow than you think you should at first, 1/2 the bit diameter. Ease into bigger cuts and learn your machine. They are all different and every person building them makes different setup choices that can affect feed rate. Good luck!
@@CNCMakerNW Thanks for the advice
I was originally looking at ratrig CNC machine, do you know if ball screw safe to go longer or use rack and pinion? I am hoping to make a machine that can have 8x4 sheets put inside and machine them at some point
Hi, thanks for watching! Ballscrew systems by nature have to get larger diameter and therefore more massive as they get longer. R&P drives stay the same size per unit length no matter how long the bed. In my opinion, if you want to cut 4x8 sheets as a goal, you want to look at an Avid CNC at a minimum. I personally wouldn't go over 1 meter on a C-Beam gantry. Rigidity goes down fast.
Rack & Pinion drives are not created equal; watch out for plastic racks.
Congrats on the build and glad to hear that Bulkman was very attentive to your issues. I also had issues with the linear rail runners however Bulkman tried all kinds of ways to wiggle out of sending replacement parts. Anyway, i soldiered on and time will tell whether I'll regret using questionable linear rail runners.
Openhost Web Services previously asked a few good questions. I'm also keen to know where you got the dust shoe from? The one that came with the kit is horrendous. Trying to print one for mine right now and nothing quite fits. I see you've got the 2.2kW water-cooled spindle also?
What speeds are you getting from the unit and what settings are you using (i.e. steps per mm, etc.)? Yours look fast. I'm using the xpro V5 and the stock high torque Nema23 motors and I'm tapping out at around 2600mm/min for x and y axis.
Hope to hear more from you soon!
Hi, thanks for your questions!
The dust shoe is a Daedalus brand, available through Amazon. Here is a link for it: Daedalus NL330 CNC Dust Shoe, 80mm, White a.co/d/gf1ycsT
If you go with this, you'll need my 3D printed adapter to align it. www.printables.com/model/376439-dust-shoe-bushing-for-daedalus-nl330-and-huanyang-
The XPRO is a feature rich, but it is very limited in speed. I didn't get much more 3000 with it.
I ended up building my own controller. I'll get a video going talking about controllers soon!
@@CNCMakerNW Bulkman description says 30.000 mm/minute! The reality is 3000??
@@zoltanbereczki8067 The speed is highly dependent in the controller and motors one selects. The 30,000 value is, I believe, for servo motor set ups
What are your thoughs on the Z axis bearings mounted to the x axis and the rails and motor moving up and down with the z axis. this is backwards to most set ups. But this is the way I am considering doing it with my build. Does it seem ridged enough? can you tell any difference between this set up and the normal set up where the rails and motor are mounted solid and the bearing move up and down with the axis?
It seems like it shouldn't matter one way or another. I didn't consider modifying the z axis because it won't reduce the distance from the tool center to the axis center of rotation. There could be some challenges with mounting it and with all the brackets not necessarily aligning as intended, but other than that I don't see any problems with it
I actully prefer the way you have it. This way the bottom plate moves up out of the way as your axis travels up. Im in the middle of a new build and this is the way I wanted to do it. However I have not seen a single other machine online or on youtube done this way so I assumed there was a reason. But after seeing yours I think this is the route I will go. Thank you for the content.
@@CNCMakerNW
Hey, this looks like a solid machine especially for the price. I saw your video on cutting aluminum. I was looking to cut mostly aluminum. Everything look solid, I am just a little uneasy of the height of the side plates, and the length of the z axis. I was looking to get the 500x750 model, so it will be a little more rigid. In you opinion now owning the machine, would you recommend it for my use case? Ill be using smaller bits 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, and some occasional 3/8. Thanks in advance (:
The height is about 120mm for maximum clearance. If your material and workholding fit in there, I would recommend it.
Hi, Im about to buy almost the same. 1. Did you make the / where did you buy the worktable/spoilboard with t-slot (not included in the pack and they don't even sell it)? What are the exact parameters of it ? 2. How did you assemble the woktable on the frame, where are the screw holes? 3. Bulkman says in their description the Z-axis travel / vertical height is 18-15 cm (18 minus the bit lenght). I am curious is this still that much WITH the worktable+spoilboard on the frame or only WITHOUT it? 4. How much time it took to assemble the machine? Thanks in advance
1. I did make the work table and the spoilboard. This is standard for kit machines. It is 19mm mdf with 19mm standard Kreg T-track on a sheet of 19mm Baltic birch ply.
2. The frame is attached to the table using t-nuts to connect 90 degree brackets to the machine. We use the 90 brackets to connect the machine to the table. Use additional brackets to attach blocks to the machine. Then screw the spoilboard base into the blocks.
3. The travel will be constant, but your height will be less the spoilboard and any tooling. You have some control over the height of the spindle on the axis. This is a variable.
4. This is a tough question: it won't take more than a few days to assemble the parts, but to really dial in, square, and tram your spindle; then tune your controller could take as much (or more) time as the assembly.
How has this held up? Would you make the purchase again?
I’ve narrowed my first machine down to the Ultimate Bee or the RatRig Stronghold One to cut some 3D printer enclosure panels out of ACM/PC and mill aluminum. How does it do with aluminum?
It's holding up pretty well. I would buy the hardware again, but I have heard some mixed reports regarding longer-term service after sales, so I might look for a vendor in my country. This cuts aluminum with ease with a good tool path. Those two machines are probably parts from the same factory from the looks of it. Bulkman manufactures parts for OEM sellers, so I'm just guessing on that.
Hello! Have you got a guide on how you prepared and fixed the spoil board and the ply base?
I did not make a guide but here's how I did it: I affixed 12 wood blocks with slide nuts and angle brackets to the inside of the base extrusions. Then I used #10 countersink wood screws to attach the plywood to the wood blocks. MDF is then glued on the surface of the plywood and surfaced.T-track (if desired) is drilled and bolted on with M4 countersink bolts. I hope this helps.
@@CNCMakerNW thanks champ! The wooden blocks are what I'm missing in the puzzle. Makes sense now. I was struggling with how am I going to get such a precise match with the aluminium profiles. I guess using the CNC is possible but must be quicker by hand.
@@panson555 Glad I could help! I cut the plywood sheet slightly oversized along the Y-axis. I mounted it using spacers to align the sides with the Y-axis, then used a palm router with a flush trim bit to match the plywood to the front and back rails.
@3:43 Why do you store your DeWalt powertools on your X gantry?
I wish I had planned that illusion!
Thanks for sharing, may I know what is axis X Y Z max feed rate ? It look so fast when you do your homing.
The move at the beginning of this video is a rapid at 8000mm/min.
@@CNCMakerNW wow!! Thanks for the info
How rigid is the Y compared to the original version and the queen bee version?
They seem to be basically similar. I didn't take any measurements before switching.
Hello , could you measure the length of your Y or X axis ballscrews. I'm interessted in the length gap between the ballscrew and the allumium profile. I'm building it off the shelf.
Thanks for your great video!
they are 1061mm total length
Hello my friend , i want to purchase that kind of machine roght now - with workspace of 1500mm x 500mm . I have found plenty of them on aliexpress. can you describe what kind of motors do you have on yours ? Are servo motors better than NEMA 23? and the most important question - wich software - are you using as well controllboard?
thanks for anserws.
Hello! I am using a kit from Bulkman3d.com for the mechanical portion. The motors I use are 2.45NM NEMA 23 that came with the mechanical kit from Bulkman3d
Servo motors have pros and cons. For these aluminum machines, I don't really think servos are worth it. You will run out of rigidity long before these motors limit your speed. (10000-12000 mm/min) with my controller)
The control system is Mach4 software on a cheap refurbished slim pc. That runs to an ESS board. Then a Leadshine MX4660 Controller powered by a 48 volt 480watt power supply. ua-cam.com/video/C7_L9qvYa1U/v-deo.html
I built this myself but Avidcnc offers a plug and play version of a very similar controller.
which controller did you get? I am going to purchase one but am hung on which one to get.
I was not happy with what they offered, so I built my own. There is a video showing it on my channel. The short answer: Ethernet smoothstepper, leadshine mx4660 and a 48v 480w power supply.
Im having trouble getting my diagonal measurements within the 1-2mm as stated in the instructions. Did you have any issues with squaring it?
No issues here. I'm assuming this is the gantry squaring to the frame. Are you using homing switches? Do you use dual homing on the y-axis or single? If dual you will need to adjust the position of your homing switch. If single you will need to manually adjust the gantry to square with the frame on every power cycle.
@@CNCMakerNW Thanks for the reply. The measurements I'm referring to are the diagonals. At best i can get about 2-3mm after over 10hrs working on getting it better. I ended up setting the two Y beams perfectly parallel to each other and the end X beams perfectly parallel to each other as well. But no matter what when i tighten the bolts on the face of the plates it seems to lose its corner squaring ( i have engineering precision squares to check) by about 0.5mm on two corners. No amount of force or hands on has been able to fix it. Assuming that the ends of my extrusions are just not perfectly parallel when they were cut by Bulkman.
So you're saying i should add an extra limit switch to make the process easier regardless of squaring for the Y synchronization?
Ps sorry for the wall of text.
@@DL180sx No worries! I would definitely check the ends of the extrusions for square. And yes, as long as the y/a are parallel with each other you can square the gantry to the bed with limit switches. Without dual switches it gets to be a nightmare really fast.
Which controller did you get with the Ultimate Bee and are you still happy with the unit?
I built my own controller. I used an Ethernet Smoothstepper, A leadshine MX4660, and a 48volt power supply. This gives far faster speeds and cooler operation.
The mechanical parts seem to be pretty stable. I'll be doing a more in depth review in a few weeks once i get some more footage.
HI, Have you had a chance to check the x,y,z axis's to see how much "play" they have? Also the repeatability, as in if you were to travel to one extrema then back to 0,0 what that error is? Thanks and be well
I'll do that in a video soon!
@@CNCMakerNW Thank you. More so my biggest concern is that the "Y" axis only has 1 linear rail on each side verses 2 for some other brands and even the "queenbee" version. Has that been any concerns with you so far? Thank you again.
@@dougw9224 I can, with substantial pressure, flex the spindle by a maximum of 0.25mm. The repeatability is coming in at 0.01mm on x,y. I'm machining right now so a video will have to wait.
My Avid CNC machine has only 1 linear rail in each side as well. Any flex comes from the aluminum c-beam members way before the single linear rails are a factor.
My dust shoe doesn't fit between the spindle and Z axis extrusion and it looks like I bought pretty much the same you did. Where did you buy yours from and can you confirm that the distance on your machine is about 15mm between the Z aluminum extrusion and spindle? Thank you
I had to make an adapter to fit the dust shoe. www.printables.com/model/376439-dust-shoe-bushing-for-daedalus-nl330-and-huanyang-
here you go.
@@CNCMakerNW My spindle is 80mm but at the end of it there is another half inch cylinder about 60mm in diameter that could be used to attach something especially a dust shoe that will be closer to the work area. I'm thinking to make a bush that fits that one and inserted in the dust shoe I bought on Amazon.
@@daringetae5136 good luck! Let me know how it works out!
Is that spindle and Z-Axis mechanism not heavy on the C-Beam?
The weight of the spindle is 5 kg. The weight rating for a spindle for this is 6kg. The C-beam is supported by a 4040 beam on the back. Compared to the spindle, the z-axis is not much of the total.
@@CNCMakerNW Thanks a lot for the response
Where did you get your wasteboard? Any way for a video of how you installed the bottom board and wasteboard?
Thanks for asking. I'm recovering from a pretty bad neck injury, so a video might be a while, but I will post a description in the meantime!
Here's how I did it: I affixed 12 wood blocks with slide nuts and angle brackets to the inside of the base extrusions. Then I used #10 countersink wood screws to attach the plywood to the wood blocks. MDF is then glued on the surface of the plywood and surfaced.T-track (if desired) is drilled and bolted on with M4 countersink bolts. I hope this helps.
The base piece is cut a little oversized and trimmed even with a flush trim router bit
Thank you for responding! Sorry about your neck. I hope you get better soon
Какая была проблема с шариковой передачей? Размер станка 1000х1000?
Я не уверен, что было не так, но он скрипел, как будто у него плохой подшипник. Да, моя машина 1000х1000 мм.
@@CNCMakerNW вы довольны станком? Что то модернизировали уже или поменяли?
@@Uncle7sid Я очень доволен механическими компонентами. Я модернизировал систему управления, чтобы она была похожа на «Plug and Play NEMA 23 CNC Control System» от «Avid CNC»
What controller you using for it?
I'm sorry it took me so long to reply; I've been ill. I'm using a controller I built myself based on Avid CNCs NEMA 23 controller. There's a video on my channel showing the inside.
ua-cam.com/video/C7_L9qvYa1U/v-deo.htmlsi=2R_ufyniKdaJsD_R
Just ordered a queen bee ultimate CNC. Did you make this spoil board yourself with the T tracks? Thanks
Congrats on your new CNC machine! Yes, it is 19mm Baltic bitch ply with strips of MDF and t-track
Did you screw the MDF to the plywood? Or just glue them? Appreciate your help
@@jacobtyler2537 I just glued with titebond so I can surface the whole thing without fear of hitting screws when I surface the bed.
Did the limit switches come standard with the kit? Their website makes no mention of limit switches.
I added the limit switches.
@@CNCMakerNW Thank you so much for your kind and prompt response! If I may, could you tell me if there were any instructions in the manual on how to add limit switches, and does the controller have limit switch ports? I am on the fence about buying this machine, and there seem to be very few people with experience with this machine.
@@OldSilkRoad I made these videos because there is so little info available about these. I built my own controller system. I purchased only the mechanical parts from Bulkman3d. If you choose to buy the electronics from them or to buy a complete kit, it will probably come with 3 limit switches and mounts. The XPRO unit they sell is plug and play with ports for all of the switches and motors. It has pretty good instructions for what it is. It is not perfect, but it works. I opted for Mach4 for the flexibility and additional capabilities and speed. Mach 4 has a steep learning curve and is not a great choice for a first timer unless one is prepared to do a bit of work.
@@CNCMakerNW Thank you again - your information is very helpful. I was thinking of getting the XPRO option. Good to know that it is beginner-friendly. I am your new subscriber!
Just built my Ultimate Bee 1000x1000 with Xpro V5 controller and high tourgue steppers..
I think my machine is making a lot of noise from the steppers, especially at high speeds..
Could you tell me some settings microsteps and so on, maybe im missing something.. Im running pretty much standard from the box as is, and it seems like i cant go much higher than the 2500 mm/min with the current settings.
That speed is pretty much what you should expect from the XPro v5. That is the reason I built a Mach 4 control system from scratch with 48 volt drives. As far as noise goes, it's hard to tell what you're hearing without more information.
@@CNCMakerNW I will upload a video on it, and send the link to you here.. I thought the Xpro V5 was the best controller, as Bulkmand recommended it.. Damn.
@@CNCMakerNW Here is my video I just recorded, all info in the description.
@@kimmonberg9616 I hear something, but I can't identify it for certain. It could simply be new parts but I do have some suggestions:
1. Loosen and re-torque the motor mounts.
2. Check that the ball screws have grease. I see the grease on the bearing blocks, so you probably have this correct.
3. Ensure that the gantry is square to the Y and A axes. Even a little angular displacement will result in a lot of drag and noise.
4. If you aren't using homing switches to square your gantry with the homing cycle already, I suggest to implement this feature when you can.
@@CNCMakerNWThank you very much for your time and suggestions. I'll have a look at them and see if I can find anything strange..
with the cost of shipping on there website $700 ouch with the cost of the machine it puts it exactly at the same cost of the onefinity and shapeoko does anyone know how how this machine compares to those 2 been research pretty hard the past few days and will be ordering in the next day or 2 just not sure which one yet
It really depends on what you want to do with it. None of those sites seem to mention cutting speeds or rapid speeds or any of that so it is difficult to make an apples-to-apples comparison. I bought a mechanical kit from Bulkman3d and built my own controller system. I can rapid comfortably at 10000mm/min and cut at up to 6000mm/min. Lots of people love their onefinity router based machines. But they don't always cut very fast and they have a very limited speed range for the router as a spindle. The speed control is manual on their machines with a router, it seems.
There is always a trade-off.
Im looking to upgrade from my queenbee pro to a Ultimate Bee. Would you say its a worth while?
Absolutely. The ball screws vs lead screws are like night and day. But, I would say it's only worth it if your control system and motors are up to it. The grbl based controllers won't go fast enough to make it worth while.
@@CNCMakerNW I’d be looking to sell my current machine and buy a complete new one. Currently using mach3 with a AXBB-e controller and it’s been flawless.
@@lignumww I see. I was answering in the context of the upgrade kit. It was less than $900 usd to go from the Bee Pro to the Ultimate. I don't know if I would have made the leap replacing the whole machine and controls.
@@CNCMakerNW Are there any problems with only one rail per Y axis compared to 2 rail on queen? This is the only concern I have. Thank you
@@bentezhNo problems at all. For reference, there is only one rail each side on my Avid machine and that thing is built like a tank.
What is the cut area?
With my spoilboard layout it is x-708mm y-748. Z varies with bit length- max about 145mm
I wish Bulkman would have an upgrade kit from the Queenbee Pro to the Ultimate Bee. I'm almost finished building my Queen Bee Pro, and now I have Ball Screw envy. Damn!
They do! This was built from a Queenbee Pro. bulkman3d.com/product/upgrade-conversion-kit-from-queenbee-pro-to-ball-screw-ultimate-bee/
The difference is pretty noticeable.
Well danm! I guess I'm going to halve to throw another grand or two at it. What do you think are the most significant differences between the two. And I kind of wish they would have kept the second liner rail on the A and Y axis. Also that servo kit looks shiny! LOL
@@blakemeding7917 I'm neutral about the second rail. The rigidity of the x-axis under torsion gives up way before the load would exceed the linear rail. The bed is far more stable in the Ultimate version due to the single layer construction. No more Tingle tension nonsense (no hate) . Tension in the ball screws is set once in one place per screw and done.
@@CNCMakerNW Sounds nice! Thanks!
@@CNCMakerNWglad I stumbled upon your video. I have the queen bee pro and asked bulkman about an upgrade kit and at the time he didn't have one. Definitely going to get it now.
How much does the whole set up cost ?
There are a lot of variables there. From tooling to dust collection, software and more? Or just machine, spindle and controller?
@@CNCMakerNW for the machine and software
@@sirjohnson2145 about $3500-$6500 US depending on options and how much DIY you do on the controller.
@@CNCMakerNW thanks
@@sirjohnson2145 Thanks for watching, and thanks for your question!
Mine came with defective linear rails but after 12 emails was never replaced. Very disappointed, maybe I need a put in a UA-cam video
That's unfortunate. I'm sorry to hear you had a bad experience. I did submit a video to them before they replaced the ball screw. I emailed support and they had sales replace it.
Did you need to make a video for this? You dont show anything.
I'm sorry you didn't find what you were looking for here. Good luck!
I just got my Ultimate bee.....1500x1500. But I havent put it together yet. What size did you get and whats the footprint of that size? Just trying to get a number for building a table to put it on. Thanks!
I have a 1000x1000. It fits on a table 122cm x 122cm. It does not have much room to spare. Figure on 185 cm x 185 cm +/- 2 and it should fit.