Відео

@@jasonparker1454 I use Mach 4 and a 2.2kw spindle

Here are the details of the box: Gratury Junction Box, IP67 Waterproof Plastic Enclosure for Electrical Project, Hinged Grey Cover, Includes Mounting Plate and Wall Bracket 220×170×110mm (8.6"×6.7"×4.3") a.co/d/hayRext

Thanks for asking. I'm recovering from a pretty bad neck injury, so a video might be a while, but I will post a description in the meantime!

Here's how I did it: I affixed 12 wood blocks with slide nuts and angle brackets to the inside of the base extrusions. Then I used #10 countersink wood screws to attach the plywood to the wood blocks. MDF is then glued on the surface of the plywood and surfaced.T-track (if desired) is drilled and bolted on with M4 countersink bolts. I hope this helps.

The base piece is cut a little oversized and trimmed even with a flush trim router bit

Thank you for responding! Sorry about your neck. I hope you get better soon

I'm sorry, I wish. I got pretty ill and then hurt my neck at the end of last year. I'm still recovering and it is still on my radar.

@@CNCMakerNW oh dude! Sorry to hear that. :(

@@bencox7536 thank you! Surgery soon so hopefully I'll be making lots of new videos!

I hear you. When the doctors put me back together I'll make some better demos for y'all.

Thanks for your question! I like Lubrimatic Plews & Edelman 11312 All purpose grease. Some folks like white lithium grease but I think it's too viscous and a bit too sticky.

@@CNCMakerNW never heard of either you mentioned, I’ll have to check them out. I appreciate the great info thanks!

Absolutely ua-cam.com/video/93MpApNQFgY/v-deo.htmlsi=Ck8aukRbsHzCWr1y

Я не уверен, что было не так, но он скрипел, как будто у него плохой подшипник. Да, моя машина 1000х1000 мм.

@@CNCMakerNW вы довольны станком? Что то модернизировали уже или поменяли?

@@Uncle7sid Я очень доволен механическими компонентами. Я модернизировал систему управления, чтобы она была похожа на «Plug and Play NEMA 23 CNC Control System» от «Avid CNC»

They seem to be basically similar. I didn't take any measurements before switching.

they are 1061mm total length

I am sorry to say, but here's how I did it: I affixed 12 wood blocks with slide nuts and angle brackets to the inside of the base extrusions. Then I used #10 countersink wood screws to attach the plywood to the wood blocks. MDF is then glued on the surface of the plywood and surfaced.T-track (if desired) is drilled and bolted on with M4 countersink bolts. I hope this helps.

It seems like it shouldn't matter one way or another. I didn't consider modifying the z axis because it won't reduce the distance from the tool center to the axis center of rotation. There could be some challenges with mounting it and with all the brackets not necessarily aligning as intended, but other than that I don't see any problems with it

I actully prefer the way you have it. This way the bottom plate moves up out of the way as your axis travels up. Im in the middle of a new build and this is the way I wanted to do it. However I have not seen a single other machine online or on youtube done this way so I assumed there was a reason. But after seeing yours I think this is the route I will go. Thank you for the content. @@CNCMakerNW

No issues here. I'm assuming this is the gantry squaring to the frame. Are you using homing switches? Do you use dual homing on the y-axis or single? If dual you will need to adjust the position of your homing switch. If single you will need to manually adjust the gantry to square with the frame on every power cycle.

​@@CNCMakerNW Thanks for the reply. The measurements I'm referring to are the diagonals. At best i can get about 2-3mm after over 10hrs working on getting it better. I ended up setting the two Y beams perfectly parallel to each other and the end X beams perfectly parallel to each other as well. But no matter what when i tighten the bolts on the face of the plates it seems to lose its corner squaring ( i have engineering precision squares to check) by about 0.5mm on two corners. No amount of force or hands on has been able to fix it. Assuming that the ends of my extrusions are just not perfectly parallel when they were cut by Bulkman. So you're saying i should add an extra limit switch to make the process easier regardless of squaring for the Y synchronization? Ps sorry for the wall of text.

@@DL180sx No worries! I would definitely check the ends of the extrusions for square. And yes, as long as the y/a are parallel with each other you can square the gantry to the bed with limit switches. Without dual switches it gets to be a nightmare really fast.

I had to make an adapter to fit the dust shoe. www.printables.com/model/376439-dust-shoe-bushing-for-daedalus-nl330-and-huanyang- here you go.

@@CNCMakerNW My spindle is 80mm but at the end of it there is another half inch cylinder about 60mm in diameter that could be used to attach something especially a dust shoe that will be closer to the work area. I'm thinking to make a bush that fits that one and inserted in the dust shoe I bought on Amazon.

@@daringetae5136 good luck! Let me know how it works out!

I'm using an mx4660 for a Mach interface and running at 54vdc. Micro steps are I think 8.

As long as your feeds and speeds are managed correctly absolutely

Congrats on your new CNC machine! Yes, it is 19mm Baltic bitch ply with strips of MDF and t-track

Did you screw the MDF to the plywood? Or just glue them? Appreciate your help

@@jacobtyler2537 I just glued with titebond so I can surface the whole thing without fear of hitting screws when I surface the bed.

Gratury Junction Box, IP67 Waterproof Plastic Enclosure for Electrical Project, Hinged Grey Cover, Includes Mounting Plate and Wall Bracket 220×170×110mm (8.6"×6.7"×4.3") a.co/d/hayRext

Thank you! I'm sorry for the very late reply; I've been ill. This is the box: Gratury Junction Box, IP67 Waterproof Plastic Enclosure for Electrical Project, Hinged Grey Cover, Includes Mounting Plate and Wall Bracket 220×170×110mm (8.6"×6.7"×4.3") a.co/d/hayRext Here is s very similar spindle kit.www.aliexpress.us/item/2251800718764047.html?UTABTest=aliabtest481469_657498&src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=548-301-0399&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&gclsrc=aw.ds&albagn=888888&ds_e_adid=&ds_e_matchtype=&ds_e_device=m&ds_e_network=x&ds_e_product_group_id=&ds_e_product_id=en2251800718764047&ds_e_product_merchant_id=107675465&ds_e_product_country=US&ds_e_product_language=en&ds_e_product_channel=online&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_url_v=2&albcp=20402721826&albag=&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiA7aSsBhCiARIsALFvovzU-MtfI0kb1VxL45_peRsiSi-N40sSPXKA2--G9OAdwAMiRH-JwVYaAtz6EALw_wcB&aff_fcid=d0b8a68c94bf4e1eb74358991343fc31-1703562214934-05878-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=d0b8a68c94bf4e1eb74358991343fc31-1703562214934-05878-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=9eebe18ea2d249939b1f92d565fc154a&OLP=1086700608_f_group3&o_s_id=1086700608&afSmartRedirect=y&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa The rest will have to fit your circumstances. Please ask if I can help any more.

The table is about 780x and 750y I have around 120mm vertical with my spindle.

I'm sorry it took me so long to reply; I've been ill. I'm using a controller I built myself based on Avid CNCs NEMA 23 controller. There's a video on my channel showing the inside. ua-cam.com/video/C7_L9qvYa1U/v-deo.htmlsi=2R_ufyniKdaJsD_R

I'm sorry you didn't find what you were looking for here. Good luck!

Hi there, I can't find the exact link, but this is close. a.co/d/0aAUNAZ

The height is about 120mm for maximum clearance. If your material and workholding fit in there, I would recommend it.

I'm sorry I didn't answer sooner; I've been ill. I'm not familiar with the ddcs v4.1 per se, but it does look like it has those features from the documentation. Good luck!

I love it. I find that I go to it whenever the job will fit. I only use my Avid for bigger and commercial jobs

@@CNCMakerNW awesome! This was my first venture into a hobby machine. In my professional life I've run and maintained numerous metal machines, and for wood processing i did the same on a couple Weekes (3axis nesting machines) , and a Biesse Rover 5axis. Totally different category all together but I'm surprised with this little guy. I think id like to somehow stuffen up the gantry to reduce the spindle nod. Do you know of anyone that's tackled that?

@@gbalias I have a heavy duty extrusion that I plan to install for the gantry if I ever take it apart. I mostly run small part blanks on this machine and the occasional inlay. It has also done since aluminum work.

​@@CNCMakerNW Is it possible to cut 20mm pine (wood) with this machine? Size 1500mm x 1000mm with xPROV5 GRBL. What motor do you advise 1,5KW air or 2.2 air? How do you think how many passes and speed mm/min will I get? Any thoughts about xPROV5 GRBL driver?

@@ThEcLoUdBuStEr It will cut 20mm pine with no problem. Number of passes depends on the bit and your clamping.The 1.5kw will not even notice the pine. The xpro grbl is pretty slow but fine for hobby use.

It's going 6000mm/min or 236 inches/min. Ball screw size is not an issue at all at any speed this machine can run. I have no experience with the servo motors, I'd love to hear what kind of results you get with them. Also, if all you're going to cut is 1/8 nch aluminum sheets, I don't think that the flex from the one and a half meter crossbar on the gantry will hurt you too much. Especially not with the 1.5 kW spindle.

@@CNCMakerNW thanks for responding! I look forward to seeing more vids of the ultimate bee as well as your Avid.

Well, at first glance at least, they look very similar to each other. Cable management is done a little differently. I'm just looking at the pictures here, but the plates on the sides look similar if maybe a little thinner on the shapeoko. Honestly the shapeoko looks like a really good starter machine.

I'd also add that I think 1.5M is a bit long for a c-beam machine. Solely my opinion. I wouldn't go over 1-1.2 M at most. If you wanted to go bigger than that I would consider an Avid or a bigger commercial CNC which is precisely why I have an Avid as well.

@@CNCMakerNW yea the shapeoko seems like a nice machine (twice the price of the bulk man) my only complaint is the shapeoko is super loud when x and y axis is moving at the same time. It creates a super loud resonance, it’s pretty unbearable. Is your bulkman loud?

@@thedude6650 my bulkman is mounted to 40 mm of substrate and actually bolted down. I consider it pretty quiet. but noise when moving multiple axes can come from the drives as well as the frame. There's a video called Archie showing he can dance on my channel that has actual movement sounds if it helps. ua-cam.com/video/ubKEWQRE3eo/v-deo.htmlsi=eFAK1qyqUwZoIffk

@@CNCMakerNW thanks for all that great info. I’d love to have an avid or phantom but it’s outta my budget at the moment. How is bulkman customer service/support?

Speeds, feeds and depth of cut are difficult to give good advice for. General advice is start with a little faster speed on the spindle than you think you might need and maybe a little slower cutting feed rate than you think you might need. Try to make chips instead of dust. Cut more shallow than you think you should at first, 1/2 the bit diameter. Ease into bigger cuts and learn your machine. They are all different and every person building them makes different setup choices that can affect feed rate. Good luck!

@@CNCMakerNW Thanks for the advice

Motors and controllers are all variables that are completely intertwined. In my opinion, a good Mach controller with high voltage say 48 volts and good high torque stepper motors are a much more economical solution. Servos don't get you much if anything on a machine this small. I have run a one horsepower and a three horsepower on similar size Cbeam machines. There is not a noticeable difference. Except maybe that since the three horsepower is so heavy once it is trimmed, it tends to stay where it is.

That speed is pretty much what you should expect from the XPro v5. That is the reason I built a Mach 4 control system from scratch with 48 volt drives. As far as noise goes, it's hard to tell what you're hearing without more information.

@@CNCMakerNW I will upload a video on it, and send the link to you here.. I thought the Xpro V5 was the best controller, as Bulkmand recommended it.. Damn.

@@CNCMakerNW Here is my video I just recorded, all info in the description.

@@kimmonberg9616 I hear something, but I can't identify it for certain. It could simply be new parts but I do have some suggestions: 1. Loosen and re-torque the motor mounts. 2. Check that the ball screws have grease. I see the grease on the bearing blocks, so you probably have this correct. 3. Ensure that the gantry is square to the Y and A axes. Even a little angular displacement will result in a lot of drag and noise. 4. If you aren't using homing switches to square your gantry with the homing cycle already, I suggest to implement this feature when you can.

@@CNCMakerNWThank you very much for your time and suggestions. I'll have a look at them and see if I can find anything strange..

I'm extremely busy in the shop; I sure hope I don't keep you waiting too long!

It's holding up pretty well. I would buy the hardware again, but I have heard some mixed reports regarding longer-term service after sales, so I might look for a vendor in my country. This cuts aluminum with ease with a good tool path. Those two machines are probably parts from the same factory from the looks of it. Bulkman manufactures parts for OEM sellers, so I'm just guessing on that.

Hello, and thanks for watching! Here are the switches I used. a.co/d/ejSzlah and here are the pieces I used for brackets. I added an m5 bolt and slide nut to mount them to the extrusion. The software and wiring will depend entirely upon your choice of controller hardware.

Thank you for your patience! I assure you I'm working as hard as I can on getting this video out. I also have customers to take care of so they get the priority on my time. Thanks to everybody for understanding. I hope you can remember I'll only be able to comment on the bulkman parts that I have and won't be able to offer much comparison on the other machines. Except of course my Avid pro which is in a different class.

I'm very happy to hear that you enjoy the content. I'm don't have a public contact email, but I will look into that! I will do my best to answer your questions here for now!

You can cut pretty much anything you can reach with a bit in the chuck. The real limitation comes with feed rate and depth of cut. You'll have to experiment with your tooling, work holding, spindle speed, etc. Another thing to consider is cooling the part. Water based coolant will wreck MDF, even if you seal it. Start shallow and conservative and experiment. Different grades of aluminum machine differently. 6061 is hard and flaky whereas 5052 is a bit softer and can't be cut as quickly. There are a lot of variables in this equation. Good luck with your setup. Enjoy the assembly and setup!

I use a water-cooled spindle on this machine and an air-cooled spindle on my Avid machine. They are very similar in performance. The air cooled models will be a bit louder when cutting but don't require a cooler and all that goes with it.

I did put it all together and wire it! However, I chose to do it this way as I have the required skills and I wanted to save money. A very similar system is available as a "plug and play" system or kit from Avid CNC.

@@CNCMakerNW so if i buy the same Ultimate Bee kit from Bulkman 3D ... will I have to do all of this myself ??

@@pavk6315 I purchased only the mechanical kit from bulk man, but they offer many options. I chose to build my own for performance vs. cost

Thank you for watching! It sounds to me like you need what you think you need. Limit Switches if they aren't in your current controller package. You will need to provide a spoilboard and work holding in your plan, but the parts for that can be obtained at one's local lumber,l hardware, or wood worker's supply. Good luck with your build!

There are a lot of variables there. From tooling to dust collection, software and more? Or just machine, spindle and controller?

@@CNCMakerNW for the machine and software

@@sirjohnson2145 about $3500-$6500 US depending on options and how much DIY you do on the controller.

@@CNCMakerNW thanks

@@sirjohnson2145 Thanks for watching, and thanks for your question!

1. I did make the work table and the spoilboard. This is standard for kit machines. It is 19mm mdf with 19mm standard Kreg T-track on a sheet of 19mm Baltic birch ply. 2. The frame is attached to the table using t-nuts to connect 90 degree brackets to the machine. We use the 90 brackets to connect the machine to the table. Use additional brackets to attach blocks to the machine. Then screw the spoilboard base into the blocks. 3. The travel will be constant, but your height will be less the spoilboard and any tooling. You have some control over the height of the spindle on the axis. This is a variable. 4. This is a tough question: it won't take more than a few days to assemble the parts, but to really dial in, square, and tram your spindle; then tune your controller could take as much (or more) time as the assembly.

good job keep it up.

My thinking is that servo motors will be very fast for the size of the machine. You have to decide if that speed is worth the cost. I use vectric for design as well as fusion 360. The compatibility will be determined by which control system you decide upon. There are a lot of variables as to which control system you choose. I personally prefer to output a file and run on my mach 4, but this is just preference. As for the shipping, it's not cheap, but these machines are heavy and coming from the other side of the planet. They arrived pretty quickly and in very good condition. It's a trade off for sure but a year later I still feel it was worth it.

@@CNCMakerNW thank you for responding. i guess I just assumed servo's were the "best" option if they were available. i'll be cutting metal 50% of the time and hard wood the other 50% - i figured I could throttle down the servos? I don't have much experience setting these up (i'm actually a medical device technician by trade lol) - I've been using my nextwave shark for a year full-time, just now learning the difference between the nema 17, 23 & 24 steppers. if you think the servos would be overkill- i'd consider the n23 steppers. I've been reading up on cnc routers now for weeks- i've narrowed it down to the fox alien vasto or this QB pro. i love the gantry height on the QB pro, ball screws and all-metal gantry. I've budgeted $2500 for a decent quality cnc router. ugh, still undecided...

@@northamericancannonllc i understand, it's a big decision that lasts a long time. There are a lot of variables and they all have different impacts. I love my QBpro and find that I walk over to it as often as I use my Avid CNC that cost $14000, but I built my own controller system with higher voltage (48v) stepper drivers and only bought the mechanical kit from them. There are many ways to approach a diy build.

Thanks for your comment! A 2-flute cutter running at 1/2 the feed rate (or twice the RPM) is exactly the same as a single flute cutter at a given rate, but performs better in slotting operations in my experience. Maybe try slowing your feed rate with the two flute mill. I use air to clear my chips, either with the m7 or manually. I am glad o-flutes work out for you. I only route aluminum when a customer orders it and then only to make prototype parts. Oils don't swell MDF. I can't see any reason to get any water based anything near my spoilboard. If that is your thing, I'm glad it works out for you, but then, don't you have to spray it every time you surface your spoilboard?