Question- what is typical for final inspection on a residential job. Jumping power from temporary service, using generator power or something else? Thanks for your input.
00:01🔋 Whole home batteries are becoming more user-friendly, offering simple setup processes and clear instructions. 01:15🏕 Portable battery units are now designed with features like ball bearing wheels, making them suitable for outdoor use such as camping. 02:09⚡ Anchor offers a simple home backup solution with a generator cord and manual transfer switch for easy power management during outages. 03:12🔧 Tools needed for installation include a drill, screwdriver, and wire stripper cutters, along with basic circuit identification skills. 04:21🏠 Circuit identification is crucial for selecting which circuits to power during outages, ensuring essential loads remain functional. 08:16 🛠 Installation may require modifications for wire length and conduit positioning, ensuring a proper fit and safe electrical connections. 14:18 ⚙ Careful attention to detail is necessary during terminal installation, including proper wire stripping and torque settings to avoid loose connections. 20:45 💡 Working on electrical systems requires caution and attention to detail, as small errors can lead to significant safety hazards. 22:41 📏 Proper wiring sequence and attention to detail are essential when connecting circuits to breakers to ensure safe and efficient operation. 23:52 🔧 Use appropriate tools like a number one and number two square drive for electrical work to prevent stripping and ensure secure connections. 24:20 🔌 Properly cut, strip, and secure conductors using wire nuts for reliable connections. 25:31 💡 Consider panel upgrades for safety and efficiency, especially if breakers show signs of wear or if conductor bundling becomes an issue. 26:47 ⚡ Transitioning from shore power to battery power involves securely connecting the power cord and switching circuits to ensure uninterrupted power supply. 27:02 🔋 Monitor power output and transition critical circuits to battery power during outages for continued functionality of essential appliances. 28:04 🛠 An easy-to-use manual transfer switch allows for seamless transitions between battery power and shore power, ensuring convenience and reliability during power outages.
Joel really itching to find a similarly sized solution, BUT, that can pass-through that 240 service. That way no intervention (manual transfer) neccessary. Any leads?
It sounds like you want a automatic transfer switch. For a 200 amp ATS, that is about $600 - $ 1,200. Plus installation. Are you really sure you want a automatic transfer switch?
@@Kangenpower7 no what I'm looking for is more like a grid-interactive inverter, which essentially acts as a whole house UPS. The of course exist, but not in portable form factor like this
Even if it is "Legal" to stuff so many wires into that conduit, why? It seems SO easy to put in 2 conduits. And also to put in the wires before putting tightening the 90 degree fitting on the back of the transfer switch. So 8 circuits X 2 wires in each, and a neutral, ground. That is a lot of wire to pull in and not damage it. It would be just as easy to put the two conduits on the back of the transfer switch,, with all of the wires going through the conduits, and then with the two holes in the bottom of the panel, pull the wires into the panel as you attach the transfer switch to the wall, then attach the lockwashers to the conduits. Then put on a bushing. Way to go, put a tap through the wall! And drill 2" behind the electrical panel, when you are tapping the electric panel to put in the ground screw on your new ground bussbar. Maybe it would be better to drill the hole, and then use a hand tap that is only going to go about 1/2" behind the electric panel? I always cringe when I see someone with a saw near a electrical panel. If you use a large flathead screwdriver to knock out the drywall, then you are far less likely to ever cut a wire that might be located behind that drywall. Once you have a 2" or so diameter hole, then you can feel for wires, water lines, and other things, then use the saw all you want! Yes I know that you say a hand saw is going to detect the wires as you cut into them, and you are smart enough to feel the electrical wire, yet most do not have the talent that you have at detecting when you are sawing into a electric wire. This video is very educational. Thanks for making it.
Well… I’m kinda confused. You call Phillips by the creator, which I could call a x or cross. But when it comes to the nicer, better Canadian screw head, you guys call it square vs Robbie/robertsons. Why? Just a general thing to say no Canada it’s not called that. Lol
Am i mistaken?, adding ground bar is no big deal. Adding a neutral bar I thought was not allowed- wouldn’t you need to have a more reliable connection than a screw into the case of panel- maybe a conductor not smaller than the total load that could be pulled connected to the main neutral bar. Not bashing your work- genuinely proposing the question as iv had similar issues on past jobs
It is acceptable to install a second or third neutral bussbar. They do need to have a large wire connecting them. I thought that they did put in a large wire between the new and old bussbars. I would think if the incoming #4 wire is used for a 100 amp service, then that size would connect to each bussbar. If #0 incoming, then #0 for each bussbar.
Karma is like a chameleon. It comes and goes. And I never get what I want. But I always get more than I deserve. And not what I truly deserve. Bad things is what I get, and more than my fair share. Oy vey. Also, when my drill bits get like that, I buy identical bits, then use the receipt for the new bits, to return the ones that are screwed up, because there's no excuse for that. Companies are deliberately making things chintzy, so they can pay for it. Maybe sooner or later they'll get a clue and stop selling chintzy things so that customers that choose them will have a quality product. As for the wire nuts, I don't like twisting nuts. I use Wago lever nuts and secure with electrical tape. Courtesy credit to Everyday Home Repairs.
what is the panel that you ordered here ?
Question- what is typical for final inspection on a residential job. Jumping power from temporary service, using generator power or something else? Thanks for your input.
I wondered if you could fold wires over to thicken them up to fit better. Thank you.
what about using a ferrel on the connections which were not holding?
24” and 60%
00:01🔋 Whole home batteries are becoming more user-friendly, offering simple setup processes and clear instructions.
01:15🏕 Portable battery units are now designed with features like ball bearing wheels, making them suitable for outdoor use such as camping.
02:09⚡ Anchor offers a simple home backup solution with a generator cord and manual transfer switch for easy power management during outages.
03:12🔧 Tools needed for installation include a drill, screwdriver, and wire stripper cutters, along with basic circuit identification skills.
04:21🏠 Circuit identification is crucial for selecting which circuits to power during outages, ensuring essential loads remain functional.
08:16 🛠 Installation may require modifications for wire length and conduit positioning, ensuring a proper fit and safe electrical connections.
14:18 ⚙ Careful attention to detail is necessary during terminal installation, including proper wire stripping and torque settings to avoid loose connections.
20:45 💡 Working on electrical systems requires caution and attention to detail, as small errors can lead to significant safety hazards.
22:41 📏 Proper wiring sequence and attention to detail are essential when connecting circuits to breakers to ensure safe and efficient operation.
23:52 🔧 Use appropriate tools like a number one and number two square drive for electrical work to prevent stripping and ensure secure connections.
24:20 🔌 Properly cut, strip, and secure conductors using wire nuts for reliable connections.
25:31 💡 Consider panel upgrades for safety and efficiency, especially if breakers show signs of wear or if conductor bundling becomes an issue.
26:47 ⚡ Transitioning from shore power to battery power involves securely connecting the power cord and switching circuits to ensure uninterrupted power supply.
27:02 🔋 Monitor power output and transition critical circuits to battery power during outages for continued functionality of essential appliances.
28:04 🛠 An easy-to-use manual transfer switch allows for seamless transitions between battery power and shore power, ensuring convenience and reliability during power outages.
I really want to see a solution that is UPS for the whole home. Still want solar charging, and battery.
I am sure you checked all circuits for correct labeling on the panel before assuming they are all correct ;)
I would have used a #10 ferrel on the wire to connect to the plug, not doubling the wire. Makes for a stronger connection .
What about ferrules
Joel really itching to find a similarly sized solution, BUT, that can pass-through that 240 service. That way no intervention (manual transfer) neccessary. Any leads?
It sounds like you want a automatic transfer switch. For a 200 amp ATS, that is about $600 - $ 1,200. Plus installation. Are you really sure you want a automatic transfer switch?
@@Kangenpower7 no what I'm looking for is more like a grid-interactive inverter, which essentially acts as a whole house UPS. The of course exist, but not in portable form factor like this
Even if it is "Legal" to stuff so many wires into that conduit, why? It seems SO easy to put in 2 conduits. And also to put in the wires before putting tightening the 90 degree fitting on the back of the transfer switch. So 8 circuits X 2 wires in each, and a neutral, ground. That is a lot of wire to pull in and not damage it.
It would be just as easy to put the two conduits on the back of the transfer switch,, with all of the wires going through the conduits, and then with the two holes in the bottom of the panel, pull the wires into the panel as you attach the transfer switch to the wall, then attach the lockwashers to the conduits. Then put on a bushing.
Way to go, put a tap through the wall! And drill 2" behind the electrical panel, when you are tapping the electric panel to put in the ground screw on your new ground bussbar. Maybe it would be better to drill the hole, and then use a hand tap that is only going to go about 1/2" behind the electric panel?
I always cringe when I see someone with a saw near a electrical panel. If you use a large flathead screwdriver to knock out the drywall, then you are far less likely to ever cut a wire that might be located behind that drywall. Once you have a 2" or so diameter hole, then you can feel for wires, water lines, and other things, then use the saw all you want! Yes I know that you say a hand saw is going to detect the wires as you cut into them, and you are smart enough to feel the electrical wire, yet most do not have the talent that you have at detecting when you are sawing into a electric wire.
This video is very educational. Thanks for making it.
13:52 ah yes the wonderful banana milkshake
I want one ❤️
Well… I’m kinda confused. You call Phillips by the creator, which I could call a x or cross.
But when it comes to the nicer, better Canadian screw head, you guys call it square vs Robbie/robertsons. Why? Just a general thing to say no Canada it’s not called that. Lol
Am i mistaken?, adding ground bar is no big deal. Adding a neutral bar I thought was not allowed- wouldn’t you need to have a more reliable connection than a screw into the case of panel- maybe a conductor not smaller than the total load that could be pulled connected to the main neutral bar. Not bashing your work- genuinely proposing the question as iv had similar issues on past jobs
My solution has been to add a ground bar, then move grounds to it which freed up slots for my new neutrals
It is acceptable to install a second or third neutral bussbar. They do need to have a large wire connecting them. I thought that they did put in a large wire between the new and old bussbars. I would think if the incoming #4 wire is used for a 100 amp service, then that size would connect to each bussbar. If #0 incoming, then #0 for each bussbar.
Dope
Karma is like a chameleon. It comes and goes. And I never get what I want. But I always get more than I deserve. And not what I truly deserve. Bad things is what I get, and more than my fair share. Oy vey. Also, when my drill bits get like that, I buy identical bits, then use the receipt for the new bits, to return the ones that are screwed up, because there's no excuse for that. Companies are deliberately making things chintzy, so they can pay for it. Maybe sooner or later they'll get a clue and stop selling chintzy things so that customers that choose them will have a quality product.
As for the wire nuts, I don't like twisting nuts. I use Wago lever nuts and secure with electrical tape. Courtesy credit to Everyday Home Repairs.
Question: Do I want a "battery-powered house"?
Answer: No.