This is the best instructional video I've ever seen on these devices. Very, very comprehensive and thorough. Unfortunately those waterblocks wont work for too long unless the water coming in is cooled a lot and the heated exit water is dumped. Also it should be about 3x to 4x larger than the peltier. Continue working on the air cooling. It's relatively continuous temperature (considering the volume of air in a room vs. Water in a cooling loop) rather than a constantly increasing temperature of a closed loop water cooler. Not to say this isn't very educational though. What you are showing in these 30 minute videos took myself and 2 others over 6 months to do to determine. Correct heatsink size, power requirements, peltier to use, air flow, and moisture introduction with evaporative abilities to meet optimal transfer and cooling ability are not easy. You can't control the weather and adapting to constantly changing humidity, air direction/velocity, solar radiation, ambient temperature, and conductive forces requires much consideration. Indoor testing under semi-controlled situations is where it all starts and these videos are perfect.
Thank you! I will try to share my knowledge and experience as much as possible. The water block was just an idea, but yes, it gets warm pretty quickly and then it renders the Peltier useless. It is only good for demonstration purposes I think.
@@CuriousScientist Yeah but the cold side still reaches below -12C in a relatively short time period. I'm just using one to build a cold plate not a fridge unit.
What @CuriousScientist is telling you is that temperature by itself is not a measure of cooling power. You can put a drop of water on pettier and it will freeze fast, but it won’t freeze a cup of water in practical terms. Watch his other videos where he demonstrates practical experiments that show that.
The MAX6675 is not a thermocouple but it is a "K-type thermocouple to digital converter"... The thermocouple is just two dissimilar wires spot-welded together, so they are really small. However, if you are planning to measure below 0°C, the MAX6675 *module* is useless. Use the MAX31855 instead.
@@CuriousScientist gotcha thanks for the response! I’m assuming you calibrated the outputs yourself then given the siebeck effect and the material of the wires you used.
Watch the summary of the test series. :) They are basically equal when it comes to lowest cold side temperature, because their DT is nearly identical. They however differ in cooling capacity. The larger the unit the more the heat they can pump. But this comes at a cost, you have to have better and better hot side cooling. Your question is not detailed enough. What do you want to do with the Peltiers? (Forget about air conditioning)
@@CuriousScientist i can destroye the heat properly And give proper current With amp My Q is which peltier can give me coldest temp I watched in your video Tec 12706 was about - 22 And tec 12708 - 25 But the 12710 and 12715 taking more amp and less cool Compare to 12706 and 12708
Yes, and I also explained why. The larger the Peltier, the more current you can run through them and more heat is being generated. the 10 and 15 A units are too large for my cooler, so I could not reach their "absolute minimum" temperature.
@@CuriousScientist yeah brother that is what i felt Anyway You explained properly I think there's no detaild video like yours Thank u to explain us for best choice 💕💕💓 🌹🌹🌹 Thanks a lot We wil stay tuned i subd
@@CuriousScientist and brother Use more tags To get easy search by people Use the app Text copy from image Just cipy same other names of peltier that normal people use And make montized This wil support u to U can use apo for copying Copy image tex Use this to copy other people tags
You need to spend 30 seconds to explain to people how to subscribe and like the video so it will begin to move up the search ranks of you tube. It's possible that if I hadn't subscribed before I'd have never seen this series and that would be a shame. I haven't seen better explanations of peltiers from UA-cam anywhere. Everyone keeps showing how they get them to "xC below 0C" meaningless without some work being done! You can see how -20C cant cool a processor or a video card or even the human body when it can't even take a load of ambient air through a decent radiator down as low as 10C! Imagine there was a 55C overclocked processor in that mix. It would probably actually heat the processor up! (Actually it would). So you have just proven that if a heat load is higher than 15C over ambient(after attaching a fairly robust cooling side radiator) it is of no use for that particular peltier! I have never seen anyone use this intelligence on UA-cam yet. Thank you for giving people a starting point. When you reach the metrics we have met, I would like to discuss possibilities of your partnership in the project we have been working on.
Thank you! I am a bit too shy to "beg" for subscriptions. When I share a source code on PasteBin, I write a sentence in the source code with the direct link to subscription, but that is all. I still have to work on this. But now, as some of my videos start to have 5-10k views, it is a bit disappointing to see that I don't even have 10% of those people subbing to the channel. This is life. :D I actually found a way to properly quantify some performance-related properties of these Peltiers, so within 2-3 weeks, there will be another, additional series for these 5 Peltiers. I am so excited to to those experiments. But, yes, as you also pointed out, one thing is really obvious: these Peltiers are not so good once they are subjected to some loads.
@@CuriousScientist Don't be shy. Do your set up then tell people the truth. The only way you can continue to afford to offer these videos is if they like AND subscribe! This costs nothing to us. As you move forward and start experiments with things that cost substantial money ask for a membership that costs $2 - $5 per month (or whatever you feel it SHOULD be). If people don't want to hear you ask them for a favor they don't really see the value anyway.
I've already spent substantial amount of money on these stuff. Just the power supply for the Peltier was $250. The problem with the membership is that I will not create content consistently. Sometimes, I will publish videos every day for a week, but sometimes I will not upload anything for 3-4 weeks. I would not be a member of a creator's channel who is putting out content inconsistently. Maybe a one-time/occasional donation (Patreon?) could be better, because they could say like "hey, thanks for the help, here is $5". But I still have to increase the numbers before I "beg" for money.
@@CuriousScientist it's not begging I currently have $5 patreon subscriptions with 3 youtubers. One offers detailed information on the builds in the group only. One offers handbooks and techniques for motorcycle safety only in the group. One offers discount buy programs on various group buys. You aren't begging...you're selling added features.. At least ask for likes and subscribers. That's certainly not begging and as you grow you can get free stuff from vendors who want you to test products and possibly some UA-cam money for ad revenue. $250 fora 30V 10A power supply seems high.
At least I tell all the details, not like those fake videos without any explanation and with those bad royalty-free music. :) You can always skip parts of the video...
Don’t listen to them. I like your detail explanations. Most peltier videos just show people getting excited at showing freezing water. Yours show proper experiment set up and Voltage+Current use as well as temperature which I think is very important to gauge their usefulness, so thank you for taking time. Saves me lots of experimentation work. Personally I’m making this cooling system for some computer equipment and want to make it as silent as I can. Doing the 2 cooling loops approach as you describe here, but with water and big radiators with minimal amount of fans.
This is the best instructional video I've ever seen on these devices. Very, very comprehensive and thorough. Unfortunately those waterblocks wont work for too long unless the water coming in is cooled a lot and the heated exit water is dumped. Also it should be about 3x to 4x larger than the peltier. Continue working on the air cooling. It's relatively continuous temperature (considering the volume of air in a room vs. Water in a cooling loop) rather than a constantly increasing temperature of a closed loop water cooler.
Not to say this isn't very educational though. What you are showing in these 30 minute videos took myself and 2 others over 6 months to do to determine. Correct heatsink size, power requirements, peltier to use, air flow, and moisture introduction with evaporative abilities to meet optimal transfer and cooling ability are not easy. You can't control the weather and adapting to constantly changing humidity, air direction/velocity, solar radiation, ambient temperature, and conductive forces requires much consideration. Indoor testing under semi-controlled situations is where it all starts and these videos are perfect.
Thank you! I will try to share my knowledge and experience as much as possible. The water block was just an idea, but yes, it gets warm pretty quickly and then it renders the Peltier useless. It is only good for demonstration purposes I think.
That's wild you can build a strong cooler that only has 30W TDP, glad I started researching this.
Strong is an overstatement. The dissipated heat is the pumped heat PLUS the power supplied to the Peltier cooler. Keep this in mind!
@@CuriousScientist Yeah but the cold side still reaches below -12C in a relatively short time period. I'm just using one to build a cold plate not a fridge unit.
Yeah, without any thermal load, it reaches very cold temperatures. If you would put some thermal load on the cold side, it would take much more.
What @CuriousScientist is telling you is that temperature by itself is not a measure of cooling power. You can put a drop of water on pettier and it will freeze fast, but it won’t freeze a cup of water in practical terms. Watch his other videos where he demonstrates practical experiments that show that.
what thermocouples did you use, trying to buy my own for a similar purpose to interface with arduino!
K-type. Check out my website, all the parts I used can be found there.
@@CuriousScientist is it the max6675? I’m looking for sometime with a small probe that can be easily secured to the surface of the peltier
The MAX6675 is not a thermocouple but it is a "K-type thermocouple to digital converter"... The thermocouple is just two dissimilar wires spot-welded together, so they are really small. However, if you are planning to measure below 0°C, the MAX6675 *module* is useless. Use the MAX31855 instead.
@@CuriousScientist gotcha thanks for the response! I’m assuming you calibrated the outputs yourself then given the siebeck effect and the material of the wires you used.
@@ShadowEmbassy1 No calibration was needed (for my purpose). I simply connected the thermocouple probe to the module, that's all.
thanks for that great efforts
Glad to help!
What will be the temperature if 12v 1A
It depends.
Yeah! see you in the next video
Tomorrow! ;)
best vid ever (:
thank you
Thank you! Please don't forget to subscribe! I will have many more Peltier-related videos.
No matter heat to me
Can u help
Which 1 is the cooldest
No matter amp or heat
The cooldest 1
Watch the summary of the test series. :) They are basically equal when it comes to lowest cold side temperature, because their DT is nearly identical. They however differ in cooling capacity. The larger the unit the more the heat they can pump. But this comes at a cost, you have to have better and better hot side cooling. Your question is not detailed enough. What do you want to do with the Peltiers? (Forget about air conditioning)
@@CuriousScientist i can destroye the heat properly
And give proper current
With amp
My Q is which peltier can give me coldest temp
I watched in your video
Tec 12706 was about - 22
And tec 12708 - 25
But the 12710 and 12715 taking more amp and less cool
Compare to 12706 and 12708
Yes, and I also explained why. The larger the Peltier, the more current you can run through them and more heat is being generated. the 10 and 15 A units are too large for my cooler, so I could not reach their "absolute minimum" temperature.
@@CuriousScientist yeah brother that is what i felt
Anyway
You explained properly
I think there's no detaild video like yours
Thank u to explain us for best choice 💕💕💓 🌹🌹🌹 Thanks a lot
We wil stay tuned
i subd
@@CuriousScientist and brother
Use more tags
To get easy search by people
Use the app
Text copy from image
Just cipy same other names of peltier that normal people use
And make montized
This wil support u to
U can use apo for copying
Copy image tex
Use this to copy other people tags
You need to spend 30 seconds to explain to people how to subscribe and like the video so it will begin to move up the search ranks of you tube. It's possible that if I hadn't subscribed before I'd have never seen this series and that would be a shame. I haven't seen better explanations of peltiers from UA-cam anywhere. Everyone keeps showing how they get them to "xC below 0C" meaningless without some work being done! You can see how -20C cant cool a processor or a video card or even the human body when it can't even take a load of ambient air through a decent radiator down as low as 10C! Imagine there was a 55C overclocked processor in that mix. It would probably actually heat the processor up! (Actually it would). So you have just proven that if a heat load is higher than 15C over ambient(after attaching a fairly robust cooling side radiator) it is of no use for that particular peltier! I have never seen anyone use this intelligence on UA-cam yet. Thank you for giving people a starting point. When you reach the metrics we have met, I would like to discuss possibilities of your partnership in the project we have been working on.
Thank you! I am a bit too shy to "beg" for subscriptions. When I share a source code on PasteBin, I write a sentence in the source code with the direct link to subscription, but that is all. I still have to work on this. But now, as some of my videos start to have 5-10k views, it is a bit disappointing to see that I don't even have 10% of those people subbing to the channel. This is life. :D
I actually found a way to properly quantify some performance-related properties of these Peltiers, so within 2-3 weeks, there will be another, additional series for these 5 Peltiers. I am so excited to to those experiments. But, yes, as you also pointed out, one thing is really obvious: these Peltiers are not so good once they are subjected to some loads.
@@CuriousScientist Don't be shy. Do your set up then tell people the truth. The only way you can continue to afford to offer these videos is if they like AND subscribe! This costs nothing to us. As you move forward and start experiments with things that cost substantial money ask for a membership that costs $2 - $5 per month (or whatever you feel it SHOULD be). If people don't want to hear you ask them for a favor they don't really see the value anyway.
I've already spent substantial amount of money on these stuff. Just the power supply for the Peltier was $250. The problem with the membership is that I will not create content consistently. Sometimes, I will publish videos every day for a week, but sometimes I will not upload anything for 3-4 weeks. I would not be a member of a creator's channel who is putting out content inconsistently. Maybe a one-time/occasional donation (Patreon?) could be better, because they could say like "hey, thanks for the help, here is $5". But I still have to increase the numbers before I "beg" for money.
@@CuriousScientist it's not begging I currently have $5 patreon subscriptions with 3 youtubers. One offers detailed information on the builds in the group only. One offers handbooks and techniques for motorcycle safety only in the group. One offers discount buy programs on various group buys. You aren't begging...you're selling added features.. At least ask for likes and subscribers. That's certainly not begging and as you grow you can get free stuff from vendors who want you to test products and possibly some UA-cam money for ad revenue. $250 fora 30V 10A power supply seems high.
I will try to ask more. :) The PSU is 20 A, not 10 A, I guess it sounds more reasonable! It is a quite nice and decent variable laboratory PSU.
Informative video. But too long and too much talking
At least I tell all the details, not like those fake videos without any explanation and with those bad royalty-free music. :) You can always skip parts of the video...
Don’t listen to them. I like your detail explanations. Most peltier videos just show people getting excited at showing freezing water. Yours show proper experiment set up and Voltage+Current use as well as temperature which I think is very important to gauge their usefulness, so thank you for taking time. Saves me lots of experimentation work.
Personally I’m making this cooling system for some computer equipment and want to make it as silent as I can. Doing the 2 cooling loops approach as you describe here, but with water and big radiators with minimal amount of fans.
Thank you for the supportive words! I hope your system will fulfill your expectations!