You've designed this without a clapper box. Every shaper I've seen before had a clapper box, used to allow the tool to lift on the return stroke. Does this work OK without one? I'm guessing it does, nice design!
This takes me right back to 1998,BNFL training centre for apprentices from firms all over the North West. They had a beast of a shaper there,and all we ever used it for was riding it rodeo style like a mechanical bull, how noone got seriously injured is beyond me, but happy memories all the same! Stick a motor on this and rent it out when you've finished your keyways....
yup plans arent his they are from an old magazine shop notes. i knew i saw it somewhere before.and hes not even following the plans correctly and has the nerve to sell them as his own. the plans are older than he is
Ah! I've been looking forward to the next episode (haven't watched it yet, about to). Just wanted to comment up front and say your stickers arrived, so thank you, and I will share them in my next video. Should be out in the next day or two - it's the Y axis read head bracket manufacture and fitting up. Cheers - I'll watch the video now :-) Craig
Looking at the video of it in operation, you will need to increase the rigidity, as there is a degree of flexing which is defeating the cutting action. Also consider changing the sliding surfaces to a dovetail form. this will keep everything in line and if you include adjustable gibs you will be able to cater for wear. If you look at a commercial shaper you will see all these features. Fantastic job so far, look forward to all your content.
To add more stroke to the shaper just counterbore the ram drive bolt and nut so they are below the ram surface and that will make the ram travel farther.
That's a monster drill (34.5mm!) Looking at the test at the end, two things jump out at me. I realise most of that flex is coming from the bench, but I wonder if the gibs and so on are as tight as they could be? And the other thing is - those screws seem like twin-start acme 3D-printer style screws, which makes it very difficult to feed a tiny amount. The cut you were referring to as a small cut, is probably the biggest sort of cut you'd want to take on a machine that size (guessing here). If your tool is razor sharp, and you are able to a) take less depth of cut and b) feed less left-to-right per stroke, it should be capable of working really well. I think the sections you used should be beefy enough. Don't forget to oil your gibs and ways, you might get away with having everything a bit tighter if you do that, which will only help your cut quality. Take all this with a grain of salt, I don't have a shaper :-) I do have a mill and lathe though and they can be pressed into service as a shaper or slotter when needed. Similar principals apply. Hoping for a follow up! Cheers, Craig
Thanks Craig! Yes I think there was some small movement in the ways. I was thinking about adding some 'gib like' screws so I can adjust the play. Also thinking about adding some axis locks. I'll look into the lead screws and see if there's a better option!
You're going to have to reduce the flexing in the table assembly.. somehow beef it up.more steel on the table assembly. Maybe extend the shaper bottom plate all the way out .then add add Reinforcement under the bottom plate. But it has potential.
@@mrmechanical3423 thank you and yes I did see your improvement. That made a huge difference. . I was looking at the atlas shaper and it's a solid cast iron machine. However, I think your design would work very well. Both your design and the atlas helped me to get an understanding of how a commercial shaper works .
If you look in the video at the start of a cut the cross slide moves forward I suspect the spacers for the guides are too thick cut them down untill they are thinner than the cross rail and then shim them out so you can just move the slide.
Have been watching previous videos,wanted to build one but have not your ability to draw and video. I will buy your plans and if you could include 2 of your stickers to place on the finished product I want it to original.
I am not sure how you arrived at the design of this shaper which in the main body appears to be beefy enough but the cross slide is clearly flexing away from the ram in the video. Also there is no facility to rotate the cutter in order to approach the work from the sides and there appears to be no clapper box to allow the tool to travel back over the work without dragging.
He didnt the plans are from an old magazine shop notes. i knew i saw it somewhere before.and hes not even following the plans correctly and has the nerve to sell them as his own. the plans are older than he is
To stop flexing of the makeshift table put a jack underneath to give support, even once fixed to a bench it will help. now you know why shapers are big lumps of heavy rigid cast iron.
Too much Flex. You did not follow the original plans which show many of the plates are also drilled,reamed and pinned to eliminate slip/flex. The cross slide also should be shimmed as well as any surface with play. The original plans specified faces to be files and scraped to an accurate fit that is missing here. You might recover this with some shims but yea you need a LOT of stiffening. A few welds might help in some areas but bear in mind future maintenance and disassembly. So only weld where it can be easily ground out and where it wont warp the material !
You've designed this without a clapper box. Every shaper I've seen before had a clapper box, used to allow the tool to lift on the return stroke. Does this work OK without one? I'm guessing it does, nice design!
This takes me right back to 1998,BNFL training centre for apprentices from firms all over the North West. They had a beast of a shaper there,and all we ever used it for was riding it rodeo style like a mechanical bull, how noone got seriously injured is beyond me, but happy memories all the same! Stick a motor on this and rent it out when you've finished your keyways....
That is the funniest thing I’ve seen in ages 😂
yup plans arent his they are from an old magazine shop notes. i knew i saw it somewhere before.and hes not even following the plans correctly and has the nerve to sell them as his own. the plans are older than he is
Ah! I've been looking forward to the next episode (haven't watched it yet, about to). Just wanted to comment up front and say your stickers arrived, so thank you, and I will share them in my next video. Should be out in the next day or two - it's the Y axis read head bracket manufacture and fitting up. Cheers - I'll watch the video now :-) Craig
Fabulous work!
Thanks very much Craig. I'm glad you enjoyed it.
All 3 videos are quite impressive! Am curious to see how you deal with the flexing.
Looking at the video of it in operation, you will need to increase the rigidity, as there is a degree of flexing which is defeating the cutting action. Also consider changing the sliding surfaces to a dovetail form. this will keep everything in line and if you include adjustable gibs you will be able to cater for wear. If you look at a commercial shaper you will see all these features. Fantastic job so far, look forward to all your content.
Thanks Dave, yes I will be revisiting the shaper very soon to remove some of the flexing.
Thanks for video appriciate to you i have a small curiosity that why these kind of tool and punching die use only ln key nut bolt please clear me
Nice Vids put some Back rake on your cutting tools, and a slightly lighter Cut, !May be a nice round nosed tool ! ?
To add more stroke to the shaper just counterbore the ram drive bolt and nut so they are below the ram surface and that will make the ram travel farther.
Its definitely on my to do list 👍
That's a monster drill (34.5mm!) Looking at the test at the end, two things jump out at me. I realise most of that flex is coming from the bench, but I wonder if the gibs and so on are as tight as they could be? And the other thing is - those screws seem like twin-start acme 3D-printer style screws, which makes it very difficult to feed a tiny amount. The cut you were referring to as a small cut, is probably the biggest sort of cut you'd want to take on a machine that size (guessing here). If your tool is razor sharp, and you are able to a) take less depth of cut and b) feed less left-to-right per stroke, it should be capable of working really well. I think the sections you used should be beefy enough.
Don't forget to oil your gibs and ways, you might get away with having everything a bit tighter if you do that, which will only help your cut quality.
Take all this with a grain of salt, I don't have a shaper :-) I do have a mill and lathe though and they can be pressed into service as a shaper or slotter when needed. Similar principals apply.
Hoping for a follow up!
Cheers, Craig
Thanks Craig! Yes I think there was some small movement in the ways. I was thinking about adding some 'gib like' screws so I can adjust the play. Also thinking about adding some axis locks.
I'll look into the lead screws and see if there's a better option!
You're going to have to reduce the flexing in the table assembly.. somehow beef it up.more steel on the table assembly. Maybe extend the shaper bottom plate all the way out .then add add Reinforcement under the bottom plate. But it has potential.
Thanks Mike
There is a follow up video where I make some improvement to the manual shaper.
@@mrmechanical3423 thank you and yes I did see your improvement. That made a huge difference. . I was looking at the atlas shaper and it's a solid cast iron machine. However, I think your design would work very well. Both your design and the atlas helped me to get an understanding of how a commercial shaper works .
If you look in the video at the start of a cut the cross slide moves forward I suspect the spacers for the guides are too thick cut them down untill they are thinner than the cross rail and then shim them out so you can just move the slide.
Yea I noticed this too. I modified the spacers in the follow-up video on the shaper. Thanks for your comment
Have been watching previous videos,wanted to build one but have not your ability to draw and video. I will buy your plans and if you could include 2 of your stickers to place on the finished product I want it to original.
Thanks very much. Of course I'll send you some stickers
I am not sure how you arrived at the design of this shaper which in the main body appears to be beefy enough but the cross slide is clearly flexing away from the ram in the video. Also there is no facility to rotate the cutter in order to approach the work from the sides and there appears to be no clapper box to allow the tool to travel back over the work without dragging.
Hi Jack, I done some follow up videos where I have made some improvements. It is a working progress at the moment
He didnt the plans are from an old magazine shop notes. i knew i saw it somewhere before.and hes not even following the plans correctly and has the nerve to sell them as his own. the plans are older than he is
To stop flexing of the makeshift table put a jack underneath to give support, even once fixed to a bench it will help. now you know why shapers are big lumps of heavy rigid cast iron.
Good
Too much Flex. You did not follow the original plans which show many of the plates are also drilled,reamed and pinned to eliminate slip/flex. The cross slide also should be shimmed as well as any surface with play. The original plans specified faces to be files and scraped to an accurate fit that is missing here. You might recover this with some shims but yea you need a LOT of stiffening. A few welds might help in some areas but bear in mind future maintenance and disassembly. So only weld where it can be easily ground out and where it wont warp the material !
With the tools and materials you have...
It is a real shame that's all you ve been able to achieve!