I would just add one very important note to this otherwise great DIY vid - NEVER put a tail shaft into a vice as shown here. The tail shaft is simply a "tube" that will dent very easily if compressed in a vice and will most likely put the shaft out of balance. You should be able to put the end coupling into the vice jaws with a couple of blocks of wood to protect it rather than the tail shaft tube. You could also put a couple of bolts or screw drivers through the mounting holes in the coupling and brace the twisting of the shaft that way - this will mean someone else will have to hold that in place while you undo the middle coupling bolt.
The flex disc arrow is pointing the wrong way. rotate the disc one hole to the right. the transmission should be connected with the arrows facing the transmission.
i guess im randomly asking but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account? I somehow forgot my account password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Brian Kole i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
George you are an inspiration to us all, most to nearly all of your videos are the ones a person would need to do to their BMW's a costly venture when you have not a clue where to start. The step by step process is professional and distinctive an enough to give us insight for Home DIY.
You put the guibo on back to front, check arrows for right direction and centre bearing needs to be retentioned, thank you for nice clear video, keep well.
Incredible the things you need to do on this newer BMW's, my , 84 BMW 325 I With 387, 000 km NEVER had any issues with Drive Shaft. Just goes to show you how CHEAP they make these cars today
Adding on my comments a month ago Re the clinching noise when moving. My BMW650I 2007 model issues with transmission, coolant mix oil from the coolant into the tank. The car was taking on trailer as it was not drivable as the transmission was leaking badly. It was taken to the garage for 5 days had parts replaced including the center barring. The oil in the transmission was just less than 2 liter. The garage kept me updated, the coolant was replaced, transmission was repaired, from gasket was replaced, filter and ban were replaced, new oil for the transmission. The car was taken from the garage last Thursday, so far so good. All transmission noise, kicking etc disappeared. So far no leakage underneath the car. Thank you for your footage video. Personally am happy with the works done. I suppose once repairs are done specially with leakage as it does take time to see any differences. Transmission seems to be working well. Should update of any changes. Hope this feedback will help others. Thank you 🙏 once again.
I've been researching a clunk / rattle noise on 2016 M3 w/ 21K miles, in the back and came across your video. Overall pretty good and I appreciate the honesty at the end. Seems there are many folks out there dealing with a M3 clunk noise in the back. I've looked everything over on my car and it seems it might be the internals of the diff. Nothing else is loose.
If interested, I used a now 6 month old plasma rotating 3D printer using a mix of titanium alloys mostly from recycled powders that used to be waste. Designed a completely new propshaft and differential, with a few upgrades I incorporated. The entire system weighed under 20kg and about 10x stronger than original. Plugged in the CAD design into our new modern Solid Works specialty CAD software. Mde a few upgrades for heat and rotantial efficencies to require no lubrication or maintence. I ended up building the strongest and lightest driveshaft, and almost 100% of conversion of mechanical work. My boss lets me use materials that otherwise would be waste, to build what ever I want. Used the hood design using a mix of materials that is basically the same as the A380 wings and is super strong. The spray shop colour matched via xray type machine and it weighs 6kg total. I should put these online. Next will do the heavy front end - the radiator support section that is super strong (pre-ped safety) with stronger but way lighter materials. Try to get my 1989 e30 to weight under 700kg. Already dropped 200kg :D
great video George. with the centre propshaft bolt, wouldn't it have been easier to undo it with the diff end hanging down (to get spanner clearance on the bolt) and leave the other end connected to the transmission. then you wouldn't need the vice because the gearbox will stop the propshaft from moving. once the centre bolt is slacked off you can then take the whole assembly out and finish the job. using the vice is risky because any damage or dents to the propshaft and it will become unbalanced
Just finished doing my prop shaft bearing after watching this video. Only problem I had was couldn't get the prop shaft out off dif end. I managed to remove front of prop off the car and left the dif side in place to replace bearing. Hope this helps anyone that comes across same problem. It can be done with dif end still in place just remove the bolt at the uj and mark it and slide it out. I also never removed exhaust. Just dropped it off its rear mounts to get access.
bruh, you’re one of my Top-5s BMW gurus. Rock on man. Did you check the end Bushing on the front shaft? Dealers call it ‘Centering Sleeve?’ that bushing costs about $15-$20 US dollars. I hope this is the culprit and hope it helps.
@@GeorgeAusters I don’t, but I’d be pretty confident on it being that. Sorted mine out 😀 it’s quite a common issue I believe, even more so on the older BMWs. The parts to do it are about £20 so I’d try that before a new diff
@@markatkin001 I have this exact thing. clunking noise. The center bearing where pretty loose when jiggling the shaft. So im in the process of getting the same parts replaced. Bur now im curious about this diff output flange. Do you have a more accurate description? perhaps a link to RealOEM?
I was hoping your propshaft halves went together like my GTV6's. Mine has a bushing on the front with an olive bearing on the rear half and I'm having a hard time this time getting the bearing into the bushing (I have a center guibo tying them together.) When you started taking your halves I was thinking "Oh no! He didn't mark it!". I can't imagine the hassle getting it right again! I DID forget the first time I had mine apart, but with the center guibo it only has three positions to choose from so it was easy to sort out. It's nice listening to a tutorial when proper terminology is used!
In case it hasn't been mentioned yet, you put your Guibo on wrong. There are small arrows marked at each bushing (where the bolts go) which point toward the shaft & transmission. You put it on backwards. This could be why you are still having a knocking noise. It will wear out much faster and need to be replaced again.
j’espéré pour lui qu’il n’a pa retiré la petite plaque sur l’arbre de transmission, elle sert d’équilibrage pour la rotation de l’arbre de transmission
The arrows should go the direction of mounting. Min 14:18 you can see is opposite. I am afraid you have to redo the operation to place the joint in proper way.
Bit late to the party, but did you actually figure out what the clunk under accelerationw as caused by? I would have to guess it was the spline between two halves of the driveshaft getting loose.
I watched this because I was assuming I need to replace the guibo on my 2007 750Li. If I stop & park on an incline, when I remove my foot from the brake pedal, there is a substantial amount of motion. I've seen other videos posted of people changing their guibo so assumed it was something that's pretty much definitely going to be bad (132k miles). Now I'm not so sure. My Chevrolet pick-up truck developed the same issue a few years ago and if course I assumed it was universal joints, but it was worn ring & pinion gears in the differential.
I had Same problem same car. it was the engine mounts. I Had the exact same problem. When the engine shifts back-and-forth. The only thing that could rip or damage would be the center bearing. Everything else will shift with the engine except the center bearing.
It might be the position of the nuts on the giubo... the ones that goes into the transmission need to be doing the pressure towards the nuts in the shaft in the thicker part of the giubo...
Have you replaced the two engine mounts? They are hydro bearings (liquid filled) and will fail around your mileage. If one is failed, a typical clunking sound will be present.
Hi George the clunking might still happen if you might have a bad differential mount but I’m also guessing if the guibo was not installed in the correct orientation. Best wishes and I really do appreciate your time to take to film these videos. 👍🏻
Great Video! I'm getting ready to replace my center support drive shaft bearing as well. Additionally, I have an idea that the car's rear sub-frame needs new bushings. These wear out over time and create the "clunking" noise you hear when you accelerate your car. I hope this help you repair your car. Good Luck from the great state of Arizona in the USA.
Your flex disc is on wrong. After you show the six bolts, and the flex disc, look at the arrows on top. Have you fixed it? If not, your transmission torque will stretch out your flex disc and cause more noise then fail. Even shops have missed this. Great video!
I was told by my mechanic that my universal joint was unstable on my E38. He recommended replacing the propeller shaft end to end. He said rebuilds were fine to use or buy new, but they have to be perfectly balanced.
I was told the same. Did you end up just replacing the bearing and guibo disk or the entire driveshaft? What was the result if you just did the bearing and disk? Any issues? THanks so much!
@@jameswallen4854 what did you end up doing because I have the same issue but I found a propshaft on eBay that’s new but a lot cheaper than directly from bmw
@@K444AB I literally went to probably 10 different mechanics and all wanted to replace the entire driveshaft. I was convinced it wasnt the driveshaft and something else. I was right. I finally found a driveshaft rebuild place. I was quoted up to 3500 by all other places. Rebuild guy takes a look at it and says it's just a bad guibo disk. Charged me 500 and was done same day. He said unless you have really high mileage like 250k, it's unlikely a driveshaft fails without a guibo going first. It was the strangest noise that I had the damnest time finding but once he showed me the old disk and I could see how it functions from mechanical standpoint, it made total sense of the noise I was hearing.
@@K444AB also to your point about balance. All 8 to 10 mechanics seem to have some fear about balancing the shaft and claiming they rarely go back together the same way and customers complain of vibration after repair which is why they recommend an entire shaft replacement. The drive shaft rebuild shop said to me, that bs and they just don't know what they're doing, and that balancing a BMW driveshaft really wasn't that difficult.
Just about to do this on my E61, I think mine is done for as at around 20 to 30 mph it vibrates and knocks, the knocking is coming from the centre console
How do you correctly reassemble the rear bearing if it comes apart. The gator came away from the hub on both the original shaft and the replacement from the donor car on removal.
Excellent and crystal clear footage. Unfortunately I am facing similar issues with my BMW650I 2007, clunking noise and was considering replacement of what exactly you done. However, I have oil leakage as well most likely from the gasket between engine and gearbox. Had it replaced a year ago. The leakage stopped for few months and it’s back again. My question to you would be? Do I need to use all BMW original? The labour cost around $200-250 plus parts. Thank you for an excellent video. Well done 🙏
Thanks a lot Matie for this video. Appreciate your video. Just a point to note, after replacing the centre bearing, I had a problem the tri-factor lights coming up and I found that it was caused by the transfer case plastic gear being worn off. I had the gear replaced before doing the centre bearing changed actually....i think somehow by me turning the axel while replacing the giubo had caused a misalignment of the 4 wheel drive system which resulted in the gear being chewed off. Let me know your thoughts. Thank you.
Good day George i have a bmw e90 318i from 2006 129ps after bring it to the mechanic for a repair on the Engine chain. I have the following problem. When I drive around 70km and up everything starts to vibrate in my car. When I release the gas it gets almost gone and when I push in the clutch it's gone. I have bin back to the mechanic. But he gives me a lame excuse that it's my .Flywheel and that the car is not worth the replace. I think that did some wrong during the changing of the chain or left some parts out like shock rubbers. Sins the car didn't have the problem before that repair. The bmw offer here trying to rip me of and want to replace like a whole lot of stuff. Yea the problems would be solved probably. Because the change everything that has to do with it from my injection to my drive shaft to clutch. Do you have any idea what it could be or what thay have messed up?
Usually I do all my own repairs ( but this clunk/tink noise ) well it's looking like I maybe best to just take the car to my local bmw dealer / they probably come across this issue all the time. Because to me it looks like us DIYer's are wasting money replacing parts that just didn't need replacing.
Great video, thanks for this. I am just about to do the same so this got useful. You've probably fixed your notices, I had the same and had to replace fault rear axles to have these clicks gone.
My e60 523i 2006 msport has a shutter under load in around 2000rpm, but if you accelerate hard there is none! It's an automatic also. Could this be propshaft or transmission related? Any in put would but much appreciated.
Hi, Could explain how is the sound, because I hear a sound in my '18 320i w less than 50k miles. Its like a wired atrapped under the center of the car. Use to be stronger when accelerate it.
Common issue with BMW the universal joint just before diff has lost all lubricant and its practically seized inside the boss. BMW recommend replacing the Propshaft because changing only the U joint will throw the shaft out of balance you will very likely get vibrations.
I too have a clunk in the driveline. It was diagnosed by a reputable bmw shop as the drive shaft Cv and support bearing. I am waiting on parts as I type this. Great video. Thanks
Another great and honest video mate! I am happy I dont have the bolt putting both shaft together on my E91 325XI. At first sight I was like "Holy crap the bolt is missing or there is even some pin >:(" but at the end it was like just pull out shafts from each other but firstly mark it so that you can put it back together like it was :). Keep up lad!
I have a 2013 640i Gran Coupe, I was told by a mechanic I trust that I need to replace the entire driveshaft; however, I have no clunk or vibration at any speed. I have a very faint failing bearing sound at about 1300 to 1700 RPM. My mechanic told me it was a failing UV joint. I'm thinking if it were i'd have a clunk and other symptoms. Wondering if I can get away with a center support bearing replacement, anyone experienced the same issue?
Your clunk on acceleration may have been the rear lower ball or rose joints. They can clunk before you get movement in the joint with the car jacked up. I've done those many times on my E38 due to my on going experiment with aftermarket parts.
Hey mate I'm getting a clunk on low gears driving very slow only when taking foot of gas and pressing gas. When I had it on hoist it never had any symptoms. Could it be the guibo ?
@@naders5 I am not sure, I have never had a guibo problem. Suspension clunks will likely occur when braking firmly when reversing or after reversing. Drive line clunks most likely happen as you lift the clutch. With all this stuff don't guess and waste your money on the wrong part.
Good video and good though process in fault finding. But have you checked the universal joints for play? Neither looks it can be greased. I certainly don't see any grease points. After 100k they will be dry. Also have you checked the diff back lash? Or is there play in the drive shafts?
What about the dif output flange idea in these comments.. I'm looking at this procedure in ISTA+ look's like another small array of special tools. ( Have you done yours? - & - if so, did this fix the clunk/tink noise?? ) Kind regards, Lex.
I have the same issue, the clunck noice has nothing to do with the driveshaft on my BMW, it is simply the engine mounts that is worn out, so the engine slams into the gearbox, (well its connected to the gearbox) but anyway, slams it, and that makes the gearbox jump almost out of its mounts and slam into the underneth of the car.
Sorry I should have done a proper diagnostic before saying a thing. There was actually 3 noices that melted into one (Because they all start at the same time) 1) A clunck noice / ring YES, that was the drive shaft. The middle of the driveshaft has dampening rings, that is supposed to reduce clunck sounds. YES, they worked fine, the sound did not come from there. Both ends of the driveshaft has centering sleeves. Those sleeves can make a clunck noice (both of them) if they are not greesed. The problem is that the driveshaft is hollow, so even if those sleeves just rattle a little bit, it will make the whole driveline ring like crasy. I also sprayed a small amount of fluid film into the driveline. That dampens the ringing sound from the driveline, and prevent it from rusting from the inside out. However driveline is super sensitive to waight changes as it is ballanced, so dont go crazy with the spray. 2) I found a small flake of rust inside the driveline, that made it ring all the time you accelerate. (Another reason to spray a bit of fluid film in there) -> Yes the rubber mount in the center was warn, so new center support bearing with mount. 3) A competley other problem is that one of my mufflers is broken. It looks allringht and works, but there is a ringing sound and ratteling sound comming from the inside of it. I used my phone to do the diagnostic, record from different locations under the car to find where the sound is comming from.
Never put a driveshaft is a vise by clamping down on the tube. It is a sure way to "F" it up. Guibo is pronounced Jooboh. Your issue probably was that your constant velocity joint is worn which you have should have replaced anyway since you were in to it that far. Also check the U joint for play and if you lost any balance weights.
hello, I have a bmw e60 520 177cv 2008. I feel vibrations in the gear knob and in the seats but also in the bodywork and the exhaust. In this regard I have changed various components such as engine mounts, crankshaft pulley but the vibrations have not disappeared.I was thinking of changing the shaft joint and the longitudinal shaft support. Can you recommend other interventions that I could do in this regard? Thanks, I'm waiting for your feedback.
Good video! My cars an E92 but is very similar to the E60 under there except my prop has guibos on the front and back. The front looks fine but the back one is cracked. This is my next job. I've been doing a bit of research and it seems BMW say to replace the guibo bolts when doing this. Did you see this but thought sod it? Because thats what i'm thinking. Them bolts are big enough to go again surely? While i'm doing the prop i'm poly bushing the 3 diff bushings as well because i'm sure thats where i get a gear change knock from on enthusiastic gear changes. The rear one is cracked so definitely needs doing.
Could it be your driveshafts? I have a similar issue on my e88 when going from first to reverse and it’s bloody annoying … getting the shop to look at it soon (they say it likely prop needs grease)
I have a Mercedes-Benz CLA 250 2014 I have exact same problem I don't know what I did exact same thing I change the rubber donet and also the center hanging bearing and I still have the problem nothing change anybody out there can help me please I don't know what else to do
Tengo una x5e70 2007 y me comenzó a vibrar, también reemplace ambos el flector y en central y disminuyó bastante pero le quedó vibración y ya no se que pueda ser ! Si me pueden ayudar se los agradecería
![[Eng Sub] BMW E46 Flex disc (guibo) and drive shaft center support bearing replacement DIY](/img/n.gif)
I would just add one very important note to this otherwise great DIY vid - NEVER put a tail shaft into a vice as shown here. The tail shaft is simply a "tube" that will dent very easily if compressed in a vice and will most likely put the shaft out of balance. You should be able to put the end coupling into the vice jaws with a couple of blocks of wood to protect it rather than the tail shaft tube. You could also put a couple of bolts or screw drivers through the mounting holes in the coupling and brace the twisting of the shaft that way - this will mean someone else will have to hold that in place while you undo the middle coupling bolt.
The flex disc arrow is pointing the wrong way. rotate the disc one hole to the right. the transmission should be connected with the arrows facing the transmission.
I’m sure I did correct it before installing Joe👍🏻
i guess im randomly asking but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I somehow forgot my account password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me
@Moses Maximiliano instablaster ;)
@Brian Kole i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site through google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
George you are an inspiration to us all, most to nearly all of your videos are the ones a person would need to do to their BMW's a costly venture when you have not a clue where to start. The step by step process is professional and distinctive an enough to give us insight for Home DIY.
You put the guibo on back to front, check arrows for right direction and centre bearing needs to be retentioned, thank you for nice clear video, keep well.
I changed it after don’t worry👍🏻
Incredible the things you need to do on this newer BMW's, my , 84 BMW 325 I With 387, 000 km NEVER had any issues with Drive Shaft. Just goes to show you how CHEAP they make these cars today
Adding on my comments a month ago Re the clinching noise when moving. My BMW650I 2007 model issues with transmission, coolant mix oil from the coolant into the tank. The car was taking on trailer as it was not drivable as the transmission was leaking badly. It was taken to the garage for 5 days had parts replaced including the center barring. The oil in the transmission was just less than 2 liter. The garage kept me updated, the coolant was replaced, transmission was repaired, from gasket was replaced, filter and ban were replaced, new oil for the transmission. The car was taken from the garage last Thursday, so far so good. All transmission noise, kicking etc disappeared. So far no leakage underneath the car. Thank you for your footage video. Personally am happy with the works done. I suppose once repairs are done specially with leakage as it does take time to see any differences. Transmission seems to be working well. Should update of any changes. Hope this feedback will help others. Thank you 🙏 once again.
I've been researching a clunk / rattle noise on 2016 M3 w/ 21K miles, in the back and came across your video. Overall pretty good and I appreciate the honesty at the end. Seems there are many folks out there dealing with a M3 clunk noise in the back. I've looked everything over on my car and it seems it might be the internals of the diff. Nothing else is loose.
If interested, I used a now 6 month old plasma rotating 3D printer using a mix of titanium alloys mostly from recycled powders that used to be waste. Designed a completely new propshaft and differential, with a few upgrades I incorporated. The entire system weighed under 20kg and about 10x stronger than original. Plugged in the CAD design into our new modern Solid Works specialty CAD software. Mde a few upgrades for heat and rotantial efficencies to require no lubrication or maintence. I ended up building the strongest and lightest driveshaft, and almost 100% of conversion of mechanical work.
My boss lets me use materials that otherwise would be waste, to build what ever I want. Used the hood design using a mix of materials that is basically the same as the A380 wings and is super strong. The spray shop colour matched via xray type machine and it weighs 6kg total.
I should put these online.
Next will do the heavy front end - the radiator support section that is super strong (pre-ped safety) with stronger but way lighter materials. Try to get my 1989 e30 to weight under 700kg. Already dropped 200kg :D
great video George. with the centre propshaft bolt, wouldn't it have been easier to undo it with the diff end hanging down (to get spanner clearance on the bolt) and leave the other end connected to the transmission. then you wouldn't need the vice because the gearbox will stop the propshaft from moving. once the centre bolt is slacked off you can then take the whole assembly out and finish the job. using the vice is risky because any damage or dents to the propshaft and it will become unbalanced
Good video. I appreciate your honesty. Most guys will say :Job done , problem fixed.
Haha no problem man!
Just finished doing my prop shaft bearing after watching this video. Only problem I had was couldn't get the prop shaft out off dif end. I managed to remove front of prop off the car and left the dif side in place to replace bearing. Hope this helps anyone that comes across same problem. It can be done with dif end still in place just remove the bolt at the uj and mark it and slide it out. I also never removed exhaust. Just dropped it off its rear mounts to get access.
You think that would be enough for me to just get the transmission out? Just leave the back half up?
@@michaelbernier9791 yeah. Would be plenty of room to remove transmission.
I believe the arrows on the guibo should point towards the flange it is bolted to. Not away from it. Check at 14:16.
bruh, you’re one of my Top-5s BMW gurus. Rock on man. Did you check the end Bushing on the front shaft?
Dealers call it ‘Centering Sleeve?’ that bushing costs about $15-$20 US dollars.
I hope this is the culprit and hope it helps.
The clunking sound is the diff output flange. Needs taking out, regreasing and locktite applied to the spline. Bmw service bulletin SI B33 04 09
How do you know for sure? I’m thinking of getting my diff refurbished
@@GeorgeAusters I don’t, but I’d be pretty confident on it being that. Sorted mine out 😀 it’s quite a common issue I believe, even more so on the older BMWs. The parts to do it are about £20 so I’d try that before a new diff
@@markatkin001 Are you talking about where the diff meets the propshaft?
@@GeorgeAusters yes the flange which is part of the diff
@@markatkin001 I have this exact thing. clunking noise. The center bearing where pretty loose when jiggling the shaft. So im in the process of getting the same parts replaced. Bur now im curious about this diff output flange. Do you have a more accurate description? perhaps a link to RealOEM?
I was hoping your propshaft halves went together like my GTV6's. Mine has a bushing on the front with an olive bearing on the rear half and I'm having a hard time this time getting the bearing into the bushing (I have a center guibo tying them together.) When you started taking your halves I was thinking "Oh no! He didn't mark it!". I can't imagine the hassle getting it right again! I DID forget the first time I had mine apart, but with the center guibo it only has three positions to choose from so it was easy to sort out. It's nice listening to a tutorial when proper terminology is used!
In case it hasn't been mentioned yet, you put your Guibo on wrong. There are small arrows marked at each bushing (where the bolts go) which point toward the shaft & transmission. You put it on backwards. This could be why you are still having a knocking noise. It will wear out much faster and need to be replaced again.
As I mentioned in reply to the comments, I actually changed it around prior to installation👍🏻
j’espéré pour lui qu’il n’a pa retiré la petite plaque sur l’arbre de transmission, elle sert d’équilibrage pour la rotation de l’arbre de transmission
@@GeorgeAustersdid it fix the problem?
The arrows should go the direction of mounting. Min 14:18 you can see is opposite. I am afraid you have to redo the operation to place the joint in proper way.
I actually did change it round the other off camera so no need to worry 👍🏻
Albert Stefan: very correct and careful your observation!
You don't have to remove the entire drive shaft, just the front half. I did it this past weekend
How bro
@@lococlash3804 Just remove the center bolt and the half that you need.
I appreciate your work bro I even sat thru the commercials instead of skipping em which I never do!. What was the problem. New sunscrjber too btw
Hmmm. This video doesn't seem to load.
Edit: it seems to be working now (on my phone at any rate). Thanks!
Bit late to the party, but did you actually figure out what the clunk under accelerationw as caused by? I would have to guess it was the spline between two halves of the driveshaft getting loose.
Did he by any chance answer
I watched this because I was assuming I need to replace the guibo on my 2007 750Li. If I stop & park on an incline, when I remove my foot from the brake pedal, there is a substantial amount of motion. I've seen other videos posted of people changing their guibo so assumed it was something that's pretty much definitely going to be bad (132k miles). Now I'm not so sure. My Chevrolet pick-up truck developed the same issue a few years ago and if course I assumed it was universal joints, but it was worn ring & pinion gears in the differential.
The 3 differential bushes at the rear. That’s what causes the clunking on acceleration/throttle tap
It’s not
You should have bought the oem ones. I took a look of both and it is a big difference
I had Same problem same car. it was the engine mounts. I Had the exact same problem. When the engine shifts back-and-forth. The only thing that could rip or damage would be the center bearing. Everything else will shift with the engine except the center bearing.
Need to do this job on my X3. My car has a classic driveline mild thudding noise on acceleration between 20 and 30 mph.
My clunking on acceleration was rear control arms on passenger side on my 123d, I bought TRW M3 ones and banged them in and it’s smooth now
On what kind of car ??
E87 123d
It might be the position of the nuts on the giubo... the ones that goes into the transmission need to be doing the pressure towards the nuts in the shaft in the thicker part of the giubo...
Does anyone know the torque for the bolts going into the diff and the giubo/transmission?
Have you replaced the two engine mounts? They are hydro bearings (liquid filled) and will fail around your mileage. If one is failed, a typical clunking sound will be present.
After watching a few of these videos. This is by far the best. U have explained it all in detail.
Did the car clunk when you took foot off the gas too only on low speed ?
Hi George the clunking might still happen if you might have a bad differential mount but I’m also guessing if the guibo was not installed in the correct orientation. Best wishes and I really do appreciate your time to take to film these videos. 👍🏻
Cheers mate, got a couple other jobs that I want to do in the future
I’m doing this today but my new coupling has no arrows.
I’ve been watching various videos and worked out thankfully how they should be oriented
Great Video! I'm getting ready to replace my center support drive shaft bearing as well. Additionally, I have an idea that the car's rear sub-frame needs new bushings. These wear out over time and create the "clunking" noise you hear when you accelerate your car. I hope this help you repair your car. Good Luck from the great state of Arizona in the USA.
Thanks Anthony!
Your flex disc is on wrong. After you show the six bolts, and the flex disc, look at the arrows on top. Have you fixed it? If not, your transmission torque will stretch out your flex disc and cause more noise then fail. Even shops have missed this. Great video!
Yes it was changed round the other way👍🏻
The propshat should be aligned in any way? Because I got a strong noise at 80-90 km\h after my mechanic changed the bearing
Was the center bearing pre-loaded at all?
I was told by my mechanic that my universal joint was unstable on my E38. He recommended replacing the propeller shaft end to end. He said rebuilds were fine to use or buy new, but they have to be perfectly balanced.
I was told the same. Did you end up just replacing the bearing and guibo disk or the entire driveshaft? What was the result if you just did the bearing and disk? Any issues? THanks so much!
@@jameswallen4854 what did you end up doing because I have the same issue but I found a propshaft on eBay that’s new but a lot cheaper than directly from bmw
@@K444AB I literally went to probably 10 different mechanics and all wanted to replace the entire driveshaft. I was convinced it wasnt the driveshaft and something else. I was right. I finally found a driveshaft rebuild place. I was quoted up to 3500 by all other places. Rebuild guy takes a look at it and says it's just a bad guibo disk. Charged me 500 and was done same day. He said unless you have really high mileage like 250k, it's unlikely a driveshaft fails without a guibo going first. It was the strangest noise that I had the damnest time finding but once he showed me the old disk and I could see how it functions from mechanical standpoint, it made total sense of the noise I was hearing.
@@K444AB also to your point about balance. All 8 to 10 mechanics seem to have some fear about balancing the shaft and claiming they rarely go back together the same way and customers complain of vibration after repair which is why they recommend an entire shaft replacement. The drive shaft rebuild shop said to me, that bs and they just don't know what they're doing, and that balancing a BMW driveshaft really wasn't that difficult.
Just about to do this on my E61, I think mine is done for as at around 20 to 30 mph it vibrates and knocks, the knocking is coming from the centre console
Great vid
Mich appreciated
Noise might comes from CV joint ?! Self locking if worn or insufficient lubrication …
How do you correctly reassemble the rear bearing if it comes apart. The gator came away from the hub on both the original shaft and the replacement from the donor car on removal.
Excellent and crystal clear footage. Unfortunately I am facing similar issues with my BMW650I 2007, clunking noise and was considering replacement of what exactly you done. However, I have oil leakage as well most likely from the gasket between engine and gearbox. Had it replaced a year ago. The leakage stopped for few months and it’s back again. My question to you would be? Do I need to use all BMW original? The labour cost around $200-250 plus parts. Thank you for an excellent video. Well done 🙏
This is a bigger job than I expected, glad for this video
Thanks a lot Matie for this video. Appreciate your video. Just a point to note, after replacing the centre bearing, I had a problem the tri-factor lights coming up and I found that it was caused by the transfer case plastic gear being worn off. I had the gear replaced before doing the centre bearing changed actually....i think somehow by me turning the axel while replacing the giubo had caused a misalignment of the 4 wheel drive system which resulted in the gear being chewed off. Let me know your thoughts. Thank you.
Nah… that plastic gear is a wear item and it eventually fails on all XDrive BMWs.
Good day George i have a bmw e90 318i from 2006 129ps after bring it to the mechanic for a repair on the Engine chain. I have the following problem. When I drive around 70km and up everything starts to vibrate in my car. When I release the gas it gets almost gone and when I push in the clutch it's gone. I have bin back to the mechanic. But he gives me a lame excuse that it's my .Flywheel and that the car is not worth the replace. I think that did some wrong during the changing of the chain or left some parts out like shock rubbers. Sins the car didn't have the problem before that repair. The bmw offer here trying to rip me of and want to replace like a whole lot of stuff. Yea the problems would be solved probably. Because the change everything that has to do with it from my injection to my drive shaft to clutch. Do you have any idea what it could be or what thay have messed up?
Any update on this ? Mine judders on hard acceleration already had the middle prop bearing replaced
Usually I do all my own repairs ( but this clunk/tink noise ) well it's looking like I maybe best to just take the car to my local bmw dealer / they probably come across this issue all the time.
Because to me it looks like us DIYer's are wasting money replacing parts that just didn't need replacing.
Great video, thanks for this. I am just about to do the same so this got useful. You've probably fixed your notices, I had the same and had to replace fault rear axles to have these clicks gone.
My e60 523i 2006 msport has a shutter under load in around 2000rpm, but if you accelerate hard there is none! It's an automatic also. Could this be propshaft or transmission related? Any in put would but much appreciated.
Could be axle mounts or rear end gear play?
Does that center bearing fail often and will it cause vibrations at freeway speeds?
Hi, Could explain how is the sound, because I hear a sound in my '18 320i w less than 50k miles. Its like a wired atrapped under the center of the car. Use to be stronger when accelerate it.
Any tips for the rear end of the shaft? Tried getting a flat head in there, am I supposed to leverage the flathead in there or just push in with it ?
cv axel? plus what Falcon mentioned.
Helloo brother is it the same for e 46 mate cause Im doing it tomorrow
Very similar
@@GeorgeAusters thank you brother 🥹
Common issue with BMW the universal joint just before diff has lost all lubricant and its practically seized inside the boss.
BMW recommend replacing the Propshaft because changing only the U joint will throw the shaft out of balance you will very likely get vibrations.
I too have a clunk in the driveline. It was diagnosed by a reputable bmw shop as the drive shaft Cv and support bearing. I am waiting on parts as I type this. Great video. Thanks
@bigfish5443 did it fix it?
I knw this vid is old.But have you checked you differential bushings.?
Demonstration on how to preload the driveshaft?
Another great and honest video mate! I am happy I dont have the bolt putting both shaft together on my E91 325XI. At first sight I was like "Holy crap the bolt is missing or there is even some pin >:(" but at the end it was like just pull out shafts from each other but firstly mark it so that you can put it back together like it was :). Keep up lad!
Any updates on this? Im having the exact same problem
Do you have the original part numbers?
my question is..can I replace only the center bearing and save and use again the rubber housing?
You can if you have a press👍🏻
Well done used this as a tutorial and all went well and no more knocking thanks lad
You’re welcome!
Much appreciated George, I've just noticed 2 cracks in my gweebo, so replaced required.
I have a 2013 640i Gran Coupe, I was told by a mechanic I trust that I need to replace the entire driveshaft; however, I have no clunk or vibration at any speed. I have a very faint failing bearing sound at about 1300 to 1700 RPM. My mechanic told me it was a failing UV joint. I'm thinking if it were i'd have a clunk and other symptoms. Wondering if I can get away with a center support bearing replacement, anyone experienced the same issue?
Your clunk on acceleration may have been the rear lower ball or rose joints. They can clunk before you get movement in the joint with the car jacked up. I've done those many times on my E38 due to my on going experiment with aftermarket parts.
Hey mate I'm getting a clunk on low gears driving very slow only when taking foot of gas and pressing gas. When I had it on hoist it never had any symptoms. Could it be the guibo ?
@@naders5 I am not sure, I have never had a guibo problem. Suspension clunks will likely occur when braking firmly when reversing or after reversing. Drive line clunks most likely happen as you lift the clutch. With all this stuff don't guess and waste your money on the wrong part.
Great video just like all ur videos
Thank u for all your effort
Im sure 1000s of people appreciate your content
Good video and good though process in fault finding. But have you checked the universal joints for play? Neither looks it can be greased. I certainly don't see any grease points. After 100k they will be dry. Also have you checked the diff back lash? Or is there play in the drive shafts?
im assuming this is not a xdrive?
Correct
i have a xdrive that makes clunking noise when accelerating from a stop. I believe its the transfer case, tho
did you check the universal joints?
Thanks for posting. I have the same knock on the drivetrain on my E36 and this is very helpful 👍
But he is saying it is not the fix some how?
Where did you put those to suspend the car? I don't know the name of it🙈
I have E60 110 miles on it with same issue you are telling in your video so did you find the solution yet
What about the dif output flange idea in these comments.. I'm looking at this procedure in ISTA+ look's like another small array of special tools. ( Have you done yours? - & - if so, did this fix the clunk/tink noise?? )
Kind regards, Lex.
I have the same issue, the clunck noice has nothing to do with the driveshaft on my BMW, it is simply the engine mounts that is worn out, so the engine slams into the gearbox, (well its connected to the gearbox) but anyway, slams it, and that makes the gearbox jump almost out of its mounts and slam into the underneth of the car.
Did you solve the clunk noise , by replace the engine mounts?
My engine mounts are fine. Checked them when I had my engine out
Sorry I should have done a proper diagnostic before saying a thing. There was actually 3 noices that melted into one (Because they all start at the same time)
1) A clunck noice / ring
YES, that was the drive shaft. The middle of the driveshaft has dampening rings, that is supposed to reduce clunck sounds. YES, they worked fine, the sound did not come from there. Both ends of the driveshaft has centering sleeves. Those sleeves can make a clunck noice (both of them) if they are not greesed. The problem is that the driveshaft is hollow, so even if those sleeves just rattle a little bit, it will make the whole driveline ring like crasy.
I also sprayed a small amount of fluid film into the driveline. That dampens the ringing sound from the driveline, and prevent it from rusting from the inside out. However driveline is super sensitive to waight changes as it is ballanced, so dont go crazy with the spray.
2) I found a small flake of rust inside the driveline, that made it ring all the time you accelerate. (Another reason to spray a bit of fluid film in there)
-> Yes the rubber mount in the center was warn, so new center support bearing with mount.
3) A competley other problem is that one of my mufflers is broken. It looks allringht and works, but there is a ringing sound and ratteling sound comming from the inside of it. I used my phone to do the diagnostic, record from different locations under the car to find where the sound is comming from.
Differential support bushing!
Never put a driveshaft is a vise by clamping down on the tube. It is a sure way to "F" it up. Guibo is pronounced Jooboh. Your issue probably was that your constant velocity joint is worn which you have should have replaced anyway since you were in to it that far. Also check the U joint for play and if you lost any balance weights.
How long does it take to do
what grease did you use?
My f30 rear (near handrest inside) vibrates when accelerating hard. When gaining normal speed it’s okay. May I know the reason ?
Wheel bearing?
Will worn propshaft centre bearing cause vibrations on lower rpms?
Yes can do
@@GeorgeAusters well I think that my be my issue then it’s really annoying climbing from low revs and hearing and feeling vibrations
Could be the differential bushes. I would fit a go pro under the vehicle to see if there is something obvious.
hello, I have a bmw e60 520 177cv 2008. I feel vibrations in the gear knob and in the seats but also in the bodywork and the exhaust. In this regard I have changed various components such as engine mounts, crankshaft pulley but the vibrations have not disappeared.I was thinking of changing the shaft joint and the longitudinal shaft support. Can you recommend other interventions that I could do in this regard? Thanks, I'm waiting for your feedback.
Hi George, i waiting for an response , please
Hi.. for the clunk you are still experiencing..it may be your rear lower and outer ball joints
On what kind of car
@@marquisbates3986 BMW M3 E46
This made a huge improvement to my 1 series, I think next I’m gonna do my gearbox mounts
Good stuff, worth doing at the same time really!
George Austers yeah I guess I should of done them together but I’m still learning 😊
Continued clunking : - maybe diff. mounts ?
I've got a bad rumbling sound happening that is very noticeable in low speed in my rear to dead center. Could replacing these parts fix this possibly?
Could also be clutch assembly and flywheel
What symptoms were you experiencing?
I gotta know because I’ve been trying to solve some car vibration/shakiness and manual stick shake
What if U joints are bad?
Good video! My cars an E92 but is very similar to the E60 under there except my prop has guibos on the front and back. The front looks fine but the back one is cracked. This is my next job. I've been doing a bit of research and it seems BMW say to replace the guibo bolts when doing this. Did you see this but thought sod it? Because thats what i'm thinking. Them bolts are big enough to go again surely?
While i'm doing the prop i'm poly bushing the 3 diff bushings as well because i'm sure thats where i get a gear change knock from on enthusiastic gear changes. The rear one is cracked so definitely needs doing.
Bolts were fine to use again, no issues
Hi George how long does the wrench have to be to get it behind guibo bolts from underneath gearbox?or can it go from the side ?
thanks
Hi. Have you seen how the engine supports are doing?
I just changed my motor mounts and did my two guibos. And now ima go do the center support
I did motor and transmission mounts.
Hi. Did you ever figure out the continued clunking noise after replacing the Support Bearing?
What size is the etorx bit for propshaft removal
e12 if I remember right
Did you ever find out what it was?
Could it be your driveshafts? I have a similar issue on my e88 when going from first to reverse and it’s bloody annoying … getting the shop to look at it soon (they say it likely prop needs grease)
Watch my latest vid on it
@@GeorgeAusters Please link the video
I have a Mercedes-Benz CLA 250 2014 I have exact same problem I don't know what I did exact same thing I change the rubber donet and also the center hanging bearing and I still have the problem nothing change anybody out there can help me please I don't know what else to do
Perfect explanation! Extremely helpful! Thank you!
Which kind of grease did you use for the cardan?
BimmwrN53
Tengo una x5e70 2007 y me comenzó a vibrar, también reemplace ambos el flector y en central y disminuyó bastante pero le quedó vibración y ya no se que pueda ser ! Si me pueden ayudar se los agradecería
Estoy sospechando soportes de motor por que en ralentí la cabina vibra y en marcha se siente un poco más cuando la acelero un poco más de lo normal !