No need to bounce sockets on the floor like a kid playing in the playground 😁 Just insert a long thin screwdriver through the hole at the other end of the socket, and tap it with a hammer. And if it's still stuck, put it in a vice and use a bigger hammer.
A trick I used on a broken/seized bolt - heat up with a torch ( I had a small propane torch) and quickly spray it with compressed air/ cold water. Best result if you have acces to CO2. Rinse and repeat 2-3 times.
pretty difficult for me to watch this caveman pretend to be a mechanic. I lasted until the sledge hammer came out and decided to look for someone more knowledgeable
So you didn't preload the center bearing? That won't last as long as if it were preloaded. 1/4 inch towards the guibo then tighten the center bearing bolts.
Exactly what I said to bro and he cut into the drive shaft which took metal out and affects the balance poor work and also left in the bad u joint they are staked in but still are serviceable I just had both mine replaced on my 97 e36
@@joshuacruz4046 Push the center bearing .25 inch towards the front of the car then tighten the bolts. Do not just tighten then any random place. Also do not use a chap $30 center bearing from Febi or any other aftermarket company. Use the genuine bmw bearing, there is a light year difference in construction and quality. ua-cam.com/video/0bCmAmnTF2M/v-deo.html
Man i feel with you. I have to remove same struds at my bmw few years ago.. it was drilling craziness. Just like 12 hours nonstop drilling and sharpening bits.
Wish mine would have broke like that on my 540. I had to burn through several sawsall blades to cut through the exhaust studies when I did the clutch. Wound up drilling out the remaining studds and used stainless bolts
This was a great tutorial! I just replaced the bering using this video, last week. Im thinking though, after speaking with bmw that the "rusted" bolts that had to be drilled out are actually not "removable" in the first place. I was told by bmw those bolts are welded from the manufacturer and I'mpossible to get a replacement unless replacing the entire piece of the exhaust manifold. So if you're able to get the nut off without breaking the bolt And BEFORE they're rusted on you'll save about 12 grueling hours with your arms above your head trying to drill through those bolts. Just wondering though since the replacement of this bearing the car is super um.... tight now... and I don't mean suspensionwise I mean it almost seems like the back wheels are dragging a d the front wheels are doing all the work. And maybe having some transmission trouble with shifting. Can anybody tell me if these are related to the bearing replacement? Any advice is appreciated.
I don't know who at BMW told you those are welded, they probably want to sell you new exhaust manifolds. Those bolts are NOT welded. If you look closely at the video you can see that they have corrugated end which tightens itself in the hole. Porsche uses the same kind of things in the exhaust. I was able to get them out by heating with a CO2 welder and punching them out when red hot.
Not a lot of power to gain from doing headers on this car, unless you're also tuning the engine, and that's a rabbit hole to go down. Better to leave it stock for this particular car IMO
On my first car, it took me all day to hammer out those four exhaust studs. On the second car, I removed the catalyst converter and used the press to press them out.
Yeah! In fact, it's supposed to lengthen/shrink a bit so that you can fit it between the diff and transmission. So yes it's adjustable but not by much! Thanks for watching
@@TheBimmerBarn thank you for your reply ! Its just that im doing a swap and the driveshaft fits well, but with some resistence and i noticed that my guibo its a little "bended" everything looks under excessive tension
used a mask when your under the car. you might not see it but there are a lot of rust particles and dirt that your potentially breathing in. mainly when you use power tools you can see rust dust.
Great video,,,but a big TIP, the exhaust does not to be removed,(as well as the back support under the driving shaft) just undo the rubber support from hanger in the back, and the drive shaft can be squeezed out/in without removing. you ll save a ton of time,,,,and headaches. I broke botls from the 2 center metal supports,,, a TIP,,, Loose them a little first,,, apply loose nut, screw back in ,,, and repeat the process until the nuts can be completly removed...
Shitty work bro you cut into the drive shaft that affects the balance you didn't preload the center support bearing you left in the bad U-Joint they are staked in and are easy to knock out you can take the drive shaft to a rack and axle shop and they will stake in new U joints front and rear and balance the shaft for around 200 if you are going to show people how to work on their bmw or cars show them the correct way
![[Eng Sub] BMW E46 Flex disc (guibo) and drive shaft center support bearing replacement DIY](/img/n.gif)
holy crap. Spent 12 hrs to remove 4 exhaust studs???
Rather pay and let the exhaust shop to do the job. My godness.
No need to bounce sockets on the floor like a kid playing in the playground 😁 Just insert a long thin screwdriver through the hole at the other end of the socket, and tap it with a hammer. And if it's still stuck, put it in a vice and use a bigger hammer.
throwing it on the ground is faster 😂
A trick I used on a broken/seized bolt - heat up with a torch ( I had a small propane torch) and quickly spray it with compressed air/ cold water. Best result if you have acces to CO2. Rinse and repeat 2-3 times.
pretty difficult for me to watch this caveman pretend to be a mechanic. I lasted until the sledge hammer came out and decided to look for someone more knowledgeable
Did you think of making a small slit on the side to free the studs!? So much easier
this method was a life saver!!!!
Thank you so much! This help me werry good
@@donaldbiden9361make a slit where? On the flange itself?
this is the way to go for sure. still had to use heat but was a breeze compared to drilling
So that senter baring makes the car shake at 50 mph ?
Use concrete bits to drill those studs out, way quicker, you’ll have them out in less than 10 minutes lol
So you didn't preload the center bearing? That won't last as long as if it were preloaded. 1/4 inch towards the guibo then tighten the center bearing bolts.
Exactly what I said to bro and he cut into the drive shaft which took metal out and affects the balance poor work and also left in the bad u joint they are staked in but still are serviceable I just had both mine replaced on my 97 e36
Can you explain a bit more ? I replaced my carrier bearing a while ago and now I’m replacing it again about to install it rn
@@joshuacruz4046 Push the center bearing .25 inch towards the front of the car then tighten the bolts. Do not just tighten then any random place. Also do not use a chap $30 center bearing from Febi or any other aftermarket company. Use the genuine bmw bearing, there is a light year difference in construction and quality.
ua-cam.com/video/0bCmAmnTF2M/v-deo.html
heyyy so just an fyi for the socket thing you could just flip it over and shove a screw driver down one side
Glad I found this video !! I started this tonight and of coarse the flange bolts are completely rusted stuck . Thanks for the info
did you end up doing it?
Don't throw the scrap iron.Collect it. That's what I do. Prices up.
Good work Bro
not serviceable ujoints however driveshaft specialized shops can do it for a fraction of the price of a new driveshaft
Damn wish i found this video a week ago lol
Man i feel with you. I have to remove same struds at my bmw few years ago.. it was drilling craziness. Just like 12 hours nonstop drilling and sharpening bits.
I feel your pain 😫
Wish mine would have broke like that on my 540. I had to burn through several sawsall blades to cut through the exhaust studies when I did the clutch. Wound up drilling out the remaining studds and used stainless bolts
Once you cut down the studs, I think you can just start punching it out with some heat added, or use a 2 jaw puller to push it out?
I used an air hammer to remove my broken studs out of the exhaust flanges in less than 10 minutes. (If you have one, use it!)
Are the push in studs the same as e36 ones, need to know because I have this same problem
This was a great tutorial! I just replaced the bering using this video, last week. Im thinking though, after speaking with bmw that the "rusted" bolts that had to be drilled out are actually not "removable" in the first place. I was told by bmw those bolts are welded from the manufacturer and I'mpossible to get a replacement unless replacing the entire piece of the exhaust manifold. So if you're able to get the nut off without breaking the bolt And BEFORE they're rusted on you'll save about 12 grueling hours with your arms above your head trying to drill through those bolts.
Just wondering though since the replacement of this bearing the car is super um.... tight now... and I don't mean suspensionwise I mean it almost seems like the back wheels are dragging a d the front wheels are doing all the work. And maybe having some transmission trouble with shifting. Can anybody tell me if these are related to the bearing replacement? Any advice is appreciated.
I don't know who at BMW told you those are welded, they probably want to sell you new exhaust manifolds. Those bolts are NOT welded. If you look closely at the video you can see that they have corrugated end which tightens itself in the hole. Porsche uses the same kind of things in the exhaust. I was able to get them out by heating with a CO2 welder and punching them out when red hot.
You can order the studs from BMW....?
Dude. If you are talking about BMW cars, they are called BIMMERS, BEAMERS ARE THE MOTORCYCLES
Yeah, I agree! Sorry if I'm pronouncing it like "Beamers", I think it sounds better spoken that way :)
12 hours for the exhaust studs? If the wagon was a keeper would you have swapped the downpipe and cats?
Not a lot of power to gain from doing headers on this car, unless you're also tuning the engine, and that's a rabbit hole to go down. Better to leave it stock for this particular car IMO
A time saver tip Heat the studs up and hammer out with a air hammer it takes about 15min to do all
You must live where there's snow, because you have a lot of rust. That's why you're bolts keep snapping on you.
On my first car, it took me all day to hammer out those four exhaust studs. On the second car, I removed the catalyst converter and used the press to press them out.
That's a pro-tip right there! Now I just need to go buy a hydraulic press... :)
Move the slip collar nut forward and mark the exact spline to the back half of driveshaft.
Much easier to realign it correctly that way.
It was going to take me hours to get the bolts out. Its worth it to take it to an exhaust shop, $40 and less than an hour
Hello, could you please post the link for the studs? Thanks!
Can that nut in the driveshaft be use to adjust the lenght of it ?
Yeah! In fact, it's supposed to lengthen/shrink a bit so that you can fit it between the diff and transmission. So yes it's adjustable but not by much! Thanks for watching
@@TheBimmerBarn thank you for your reply !
Its just that im doing a swap and the driveshaft fits well, but with some resistence and i noticed that my guibo its a little "bended" everything looks under excessive tension
I need to do this haha !
used a mask when your under the car. you might not see it but there are a lot of rust particles and dirt that your potentially breathing in. mainly when you use power tools you can see rust dust.
use gloves also
Did you need to replace the driveshaft cause of the wiggle in the back?
no point hitting the shaft, hit the inner race of the bearing...
Great video,,,but a big TIP, the exhaust does not to be removed,(as well as the back support under the driving shaft) just undo the rubber support from hanger in the back, and the drive shaft can be squeezed out/in without removing. you ll save a ton of time,,,,and headaches. I broke botls from the 2 center metal supports,,, a TIP,,, Loose them a little first,,, apply loose nut, screw back in ,,, and repeat the process until the nuts can be completly removed...
Why u watching this if u know what u doing?
in my country its 120 dollar xd
🙏🏽thk you for 6 point sockets 😂
Very nice video explaining and all
Which model are you working on here? Is this also a 530i? From which year?
This was a 2005 E46 Wagon 325xi, but it's a very similar procedure for other BMW's!
Thank God for you. I’m going to replace this after seeing my o2 sensor seized. Thank you!!
Good luck!
Where’d you get the replacement bolts I can’t find any anywhere
For the exhaust? I used grade 8 bolts from the hardware store, I think m8 thread.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
That was a very long and tedious process you went through just to avoid installing eBay tubular headers 🙃
Great video, very informative!
Shitty work bro you cut into the drive shaft that affects the balance you didn't preload the center support bearing you left in the bad U-Joint they are staked in and are easy to knock out you can take the drive shaft to a rack and axle shop and they will stake in new U joints front and rear and balance the shaft for around 200 if you are going to show people how to work on their bmw or cars show them the correct way
What kind of jack stands are those on each side of the car? Thanks.