Ready to fly K110 heli package reviewed in this video: www.banggood.com/custlink/K3DmeeTSUq XK X6 Computerized Radio Review Video: ua-cam.com/video/lzW9m8899Tk/v-deo.html How to correct setup collective pitch RC helicopters eBook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html If you don't know how to build your own micro training gear: www.rchelicopterfun.com/helicopter-training-gear.html
John, I have all of your ebooks and like your teaching style. It would be great if you can do a helicopter setup video for openTx transmitter users, I just picked up a jumper but I am struggling with the programming, especially since I came from spektrum. Great vid as always!
Hi Keith, I'll see what I might be able to come up with. The biggest issue with OpenTX how-to tutorials is there are so many ways to achieve the same end result it's basically impossible to cover everything and to be honest I likely don't use the power of OpenTX near to it's potential. I can of course show my narrow, somewhat simplistic layout, but then that somewhat undervalues the reason for getting OpenTX in the first place - to make it yours. In the mean time, I'm sure you've already spent a good deal of time on the OpenTX University website, but that site was my savior when I switched from Spektrum & JR to OpenTX. Every single thing I've learned to do, and how to work an OpenTX radio, came from that site exclusively. I personally don't think I could hold a candle flame to the amazing amount of good information that site has already got available, but we will see. Thanks for the suggestion, your support & patronage, and the kind comments.
What an excellent review from start to finish! Clear overall and partial objectives; careful presentation planning (perhaps even faultless); clear verbal performance; script objectivity.
Tks 4 Ur sharing knowledge. Im a 16 year Rc Foam airplane pilot. At 65 yo, Have a nanos3, 150s 180cfx an 230s , ebay blades. Spectrum dx6e. I enjoy the Overall tech, science of helis. Ive A XK 110S on the way. A couple of ur Books on coffee table. Tjs
Excellent recommendation... from beginner to expert setup correctly the 59.4g (ver 4) Blast 110 with it's tiny moment arm once said to be too small for an RC helicopter to fly under control is IMO the best 3D training RC heli due to eliminating repair down time as well as repair costs... when flown over grass it's almost unbreakable and you can stop the square carbon tail boom from spitting just by criss cross wrapping the tail boom with 1 strand of separated 3 strand Kevlar fiber string Hobby King sells using thin CA and acetone adding no discernable weight. 11:42 And just a heads up regarding the JST Molex connector XK and Walkera uses which is known to have weak insert tabs that hold the battery wire and metal connector inside the insulated plastic housing. Using a multi-meter with sharp leads pushes the insert retaining tabs flat making the issue even worse. I have had the wires come out countless times on these Molex connectors and touch another battery's opposite pole twice over the years and once I was using a Molex to red JST adaptor and fried a flight control board because both wires came out at the same time and shorted when doing amp readings because I had just been using a multimeter to get accurate voltage readings and that's when I realized the issue. GNB just came out with a real 10A -15A burst soldered 1mm micro bullet connector for their 1S batteries to replace the terrible 2A PH 2.0 connector used on the Tiny Hawk etc. increasing flight times and decreasing voltage sag adding power and speed especially on older batteries if taken care of due to warn connectors. Weight of the new GNB 27 1 mm bullet connector @ .84g is higher than Betafpv's fairly new 9A BP 2.0 1mm bullet connector @ .58g but nice to have another 1mm micro connector coming stock on the GNB batteries as the PH 2.0 like all the various crimped JST's was never designed to be a battery connector and is only rated for 10 connections at 2A according to one spec sheet. So happy to pass it on and get the 1mm bullet connector standard going as soon I will be done with all 3 crimped JST connectors I was forced to use. Some of the red JSTs I'm seeing now are so loose fitting you can insert them with the polarity reversed so glad to see GMB create a proper standard for high C 1S batteries. BTW I found when using the Nano-Tech Nine-Eagle 45/90C 300 mAh battery the flight time loss is not bad with increased performance due to lighter weight @ 55.8g and higher C rating so can't wait to see what the new bullet micro connectors adds to the B110 going from 2A (when new) to a 9 or 10A connector that doesn't ware out from use.
Thanks so much. Hadn't used my K110 for a while and it just wouldn't fly. Your clear calm and exact explanation of the heli setup enabled me to get it flying again!
I learnt on a Raptor 30 when these little models didn't exist. Have 2 of these now along with many other micros and they just can't be beat for indoor practice, or when the weather is rough outside.
WOW dude!!! nobody but nobody tells ya how to set these up correctly. Ive scared off my whole family from flying cuz mine is way too twitchy. Thank you so much. I owe you some gratitude. When i buy another This week i will buy from your link
Breaking news!! I'm 2 days in. Still terrified. Having a blast. Beginning to learn what everything really means but what a learning curve. I really have to say this little thing is tough as all hell! It's been kicking my living room's ass so bad that it's actually breaking things and i get up and and put the little devil back on the coffee table and it spools right back up time after time. I have a ton to learn and a lot more stuff to break so I'm diggin it! For anyone crashing hard like me, keep an eye on the little mast collar beneath the swashplate. If you bring up collecrive and the whole mast moves upward with the collar, turn it over remove the battery and look for the main sprocket slipping downward (toward battery). Put heli on rotor head and tap the sprocket back into place or at least flush with the end of the shaft. Everytime you crash the battery will move and change your CG. If you crash hard enough to dislodge the body from the grommets, check the battery locale. If it has moved, the front of batt tray/skid mount may have come out. If that has happened, check sprocket. All good movable bendy stuff that absorbs energy! I love it!
I’ve watch many of your video and this little micro seems to get more compliments from you than any other heli you videos on! Awesome, you shooting from the hip
Have had mine a year. Love it. This is very stable flybarless controller. Much more stable than Blade MCPX. The tail holds real well when doing pitch pump s or flipping it.
When I was a kid I had a toy called VertiBird by Mattel. I dreamed of that little helicopter being remote controlled. You can be sure that I own this heli and others. Where we've come in terms of miniaturization and precision is nothing short of astonishing!
Just ordered the exact same RTF K110 heli today based on your review. My NX 10 radio isn't going to work, hence the RTF order. Thanks for your clear, concise videos.
my k110 is on its way from china and i just ordered the cp basics book. Cant wait to make the next step from my 70s. Thanks for putting the time in on this!
Excellent review! I just got the XK K110S, the upgrade on this already great little heli. I've learned the basics on an Eachine 129, now I'm ready to move on to collective pitch. Out of the box, this little chopper was waaay too aggressive for my skill level, the excellent radio that came with it tamed it quite a bit, it's now set up really sweet. I've only flown it indoors so far, practicing hovering and landing. I'm looking forward to outdoor flying. 3D aerobatic flying is for later but I am going to practice without stabilisation, as you advised. Thanks again for making these videos, it really helps. (especially because the manuals are pretty useless) Btw, you're some pilot! I love how you throw that thing around effortlessly. I hope to get somewhat good at it too, it will take time but that's ok, I'm very patient.
Nice timing for me to see, I have ordered K110s, neber flown a proper RC helicopter otherthan few cheap flybar ones.. Got your video saved for future references ☺️
Thank's for teaching me about D/R which had me beat not knowing what it was for, as beginner of 6months and mid 50s, i need to slow my birds right down to docile lol espcially this E120S direct drive i got,so ANGRY POWER WISE out of box and been a big crash course literary "wink" but has taught me HEAPS..bought the K110s to practice more back to basic "inside" and arrived few days ago, should have started collective pitch with the 110s for sure..
thank yo so much for the tutorial. Just purchased the K110S. As you noted in the video, the D/R settings out of the box are way off. Using your settings made it much more stable.
I want to thank you for this Video, the k110 is now my way to CP helicopter flying, it was so awsome and usefull to me and helped a lot to make my decision. meanwhile i looked a lot of your videos and like the good tips and honest requests in it.
I can only fly mine indoors based on where i live. I love these XK but not sure which can be tamed the most. I'd also like to replace the charging system with an on/off switch so i can charge without removing the battery while the heli is off
Debating between this and Blade 230s as a next step after getting comfortable with the Blade 70s. I like that the 70s can get crashed over and over with minimal damage, but it can't stand up to wind well at all. I only fly outside. Thinking the 230s would hold up to the wind better than the k110, but both should be better than the 70s. 230s should be more stable, but much more expensive when crashed. Does that all sound accurate? Any thoughts or recommendations?
@ryan52403 - I cover this very compromise on the best RC helicopter page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html As that page and what you have already stated, the bigger you go, the better the flying experience with improved predictability, stability & fluidity. You can also see them much better. The compromise is cost and crash robustness/survivability. The larger you go, the more energy is released when the ground gets in the way and the more parts you will have in your shopping cart afterward. Any collective pitch RC helicopter, even the tiny K110 is going to be able to handle more wind than any fixed pitch micro so don't discount the k110 if wind handling is an important consideration, especially if you want something that can crash without breaking. No question however, the larger and heavier they helicopter, the more wind it can cope with while still remaining somewhat enjoyable to fly. Consider your flying area as well, do you have enough room for a 230? It's too big for average size yard flying, at least if you want to have any fun over and above basic hover control exercises. Perhaps something between the two would also be worth consideration? Something like an OMP M1 which has a fair amount of small heli crash robustness, but feels & fly's larger than it is thanks to OMP's amazing flybarless system tuning. Regardless of what you get, it's all compromise - choose the bird that checks off the most boxes.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John, you make a good point about the 230s, a smaller heli would be more convenient and allow for backyard flying. Really like the M1, but leaning towards the k110 as it seems that even the M1, which is similar in size but double the weight, has more issues with breaking (I found a forum with lots of complaints). If I get good enough on the K110 I'm thinking I could skip to the M2, which I think would be small enough to do backyard flying once I'm good enough, but big enough to be able to fly at greater distances as well.
So glad to see you review this john, invaluable information in the detail of your videos and ebooks. I have the k110m and slowly making progress on my orientation. Your ebooks have helpd me so much. Cheers from the uk
Great video, and some cool flying skills you have. I have been flying model planes for years and i got one of these and took it outside and did the biggest figure seven i ever seen, parts everywhere, LOL I started out with a v911 and thought i was ready to try 3D and man was i wrong, now that i seen your video i am going to get another one and watch this again and set it up and try again i learned more about helis in the last 30 minutes than i learned in the last 30 years.
I have a heli flight school (written & video) on my website that may also help. www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters.html Very first skill to learn & master with collective pitch helicopters is the tail in hover (staying close to the ground). Everything moving forward is built on that single primary skill set.
Hi John, thanks once more for sharing these helpful and funny kinds of stuff. By the way, I'm one of your readers and I read all of your books as well! From BraSil, best of all!
11:59, 4.22 volts is actually right within margin of error for most lithium ion sub-chemistries. There is no real need for concern unless the battery is exceeding like 4.3 volts.
While 4.22V may not cause any immediate harm or danger, it is most certainly reducing life cycles. According to all the LiPo data reports I have read not to mention my own experiences over the past decade +. 4.20V is even pushing it and why the mobile device industry and many RC'ers have their cell termination voltage set at 4.15V. I cover this in more detail on my LiPo Battery page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/lipo-batteries.html Of course on cheap little low capacity 1S packs like these used in high current discharge devices like this, I'm sure the packs will fail from over discharging and poor storage practices long before the effect of 0.02 of charge voltage potential will come into play 🙂
I just got mine. I put it on flight hold before my 1st flight and when I move the sticks maxed movement position sometimes the servos make a clicking sound. Have you ruin into that before? Broken servo out of the box? Also what battery charger do you recommend?
Really enjoy your videos John. I'm already hovering in all orientations with a fixed-pitch micro, and now I'm looking for a CP trainer (with stabilization that can be switched off) for learning loops, rolls, inverted. Would you recommend the M1, K110, or perhaps the E 120S ? Thank you.
Glad to hear you are progressing nicely. As for a product recommendation... I don't know what the E120S is like yet, so I comment on it. The K110 is good value, but M1's are impressive and without question a better quality heli (as the price increase would suggest). I would say if you want to fly indoors as well, the K110 is better suited. If outdoors only and in some wind, the M1 would get my vote. Also consider parts support. I always recommend that being one of the first considerations of any heli brand purchase (how easy or difficult is it to source parts for a specific brand in your specific location).
I recieved my awaited xk k110 rc helicopter today and it just spins in circles, so i went online and found out how to calibrate the gyroscopes and it helped a little so i tried trimming the rotationand the boom fell out, I put it back in and its worse. never took it more than 3 ft off the ground. people that have reviewed this say its realy tuff and can handle some crashes, mine couldnt handle a soft landing. So who do i send this thing back to?
To understand why an RC helicopter is spinning (yawing) in circles, it helps immensely to understand the basics of helicopter flight physics. www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-controls.html My page on Yaw specifically addresses these issues: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-rudder.html A hard yaw is due to either too much or too little tail thrust in relation to main rotor reactive torque. You never mentioned which way the direction of yaw was so I have no way to know which of the two it might be. However, 90% of the time (on these little micros anyway), fast yaw rate issues the moment you get light on the skids are due to not enough tail thrust to counter the reactive torque off the main rotor. This would be a counter-clockwise yaw (nose turning left) on the K110 which has a clockwise rotating main rotor. If that's the direction of yaw (counter-clockwise/left), the two most common causes on these tiny collective pitch helis with fixed pitch direct drive tail motors are either a slipping tail rotor on the tail motor shaft or a faulty motor. I've also seen tail motor wiring faults on little micros and lastly, a faulty control circuit (either the gyro or the speed control circuit in the ESC). Calibration on the K110 by the way has no impact on the the tail gyro performance - it's for your cyclic gyros to improve cyclic drifting only. As to where you would send it back. Obviously to the vendor you purchased it from.
Tame beginner setup is covered in my Setup & Tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html The basics of OpenTX Heli setup I cover in this video: ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun I wish there was a video series (paid, I dont mind) for the setup and tame beginner, because honestly following an ebook might be a bit hard. Just my opinion of course.
High John, I need your help. I bought one of these XK-110s helicopters and it arrived with the box beat up a little with no apparent damage other than a retaining nut fell off a switch which I put back on. The tail rotor is inoperable. The main rotor can get to speed but the tail never attempts to come on. When I moved it from table to ground the first time the tail came on for a moment and stopped which is normal with me moving the tail, I think. When on the ground I spooled it up and it spun around very quickly and of course tipped over. I checked the connections on the board and all appear tight. I can whip the tail left to right and no action occurs. The board light is on showing it bound to radio. I have contacted BANGOOD and can not get any resolution as of yet. They sent a message offering to refund 20 on the 133.00 purchase which I told them no. I would like to get it fixed. As I see it it as to be the radio, PCB, or tail motor and I don't know which it is. Can you please offer any suggestions as to what I might try here. I have a video and pictures which I sent to BANGOOD. THANK YOU
@dajatu Technical questions like this are best asked through my website contact form. www.rchelicopterfun.com/contact.html As I'm working from home today however - here we go... It's hard/impossible to diagnose electrical issues like this remotely. If I had this heli on the work bench with what you are describing, I would take a systematic diagnostic approach starting at the easiest to check and most likely to fail, working down the list to hardest and least likely. This starts at the 3 wires from the ESC at the front of the heli all the way down to the tail motor. Wiggling, pushing, pulling on them along the entire lenght can often get things working intermittently indicating a poor solder connection, open/short in one of the wires, bad connector, etc. Probing each wire with a DMM to see if it's conducting from end to end or shorted to one another is another check if you have a basic DMM with continuity measurement. Next item to suspect is the motor itself. While it is possible to sometime fix a defective motor, it's well beyond the scope of a YT comment reply and limited time I have not to mention the low cost of a new tail motor - just replace it. Next item would be the ESC. If it's suspect, replace it. Next up is the radio (transmitter). This actually is worth checking first because it's an easy item to check, but it's also very unlikely ie. it wasn't programmed correctly at the factory and there is simply no rudder channel output. If you have another RC model that works with S-FHSS protocol that you can bind to the radio to see if the rudder channel it outputting correctly that is the easiest method. Other option is if you have an S-FHSS receiver and servo you could hook up to the rudder channel to see if it's working. Or play around with the rudder channel (CH4) output programming within the radio so it's definitely producing a -100 to +100 output with full stick movement. The very last item to suspect would be the main control board on the helicopter as they simply rarely fail and when they do, I've never once seen just one channel effected; nothing will work, or it works sporadically. My money is on the wiring or motor as they are the two weakest links in the system, but that certainly doesn't mean it couldn't be something else.
John Salt Thanks for your review. I couldnt fly a few years. Want to get back into Helis. Still have my Tarot 450 but want to get the hang of it again with a micro Heli. My Walkera Mini CP brushless is old and needs a new build up. Seems there are hardly spares sold. So I need a new micro. - Low price / value for money - very forgiving crashes - Brushless Are my needs. Align 150X Blade Nano s2 or Mcpx BL2 XK K110 What do you recommend? I still remember nine eagles hat a great micro. The Market has changed so much. I didnt even know any XK Models before. Walkera seems dead. So thankful for a reply John! 😊
With low price/value for money being the first box to check on your list, the K110 is the clear winner. It's also the most robust out of what you have listed as it has the least amount of energy and weight to dissipate during a crash. Keep in mind only the main motor is brushless on the K110, not the tail. If you want the tail motor to be brushless as well, then the mCPX BL2 would be better value than the Align 150X which is the higher end heli of what you have listed and the price reflects that quality. If you have the Align 150X on your list, you should also have the OMP Hobby M1. Pretty much the cream of the crop in that size class IMO. I of course don't know what radio system you might already have, so that is a deciding factor as well if it will work with one of these brands so you don't also have to get a new radio which is the more important item over the heli.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks a lot. The K110 is ordered. Youre a flying legend 🙌 you inspired me to get back into helis. Kills the corona boredness being so restricted at home. Love the Micros for that
Hi John, i currently have a trex 600N ...i can hover and slide it from side to side tail in only.... but cant seem to get past thus step...some guys at my club reccomended this xk110 so i feel more confidnt to try circuits and progress my skills....would you recommend this?
@PilotChris06FW. Yes I would agree the XK110 is a great little at home practice aid and if you are not getting much benefit from your simulator that translates over to the 600N, then a small and fairly crash proof micro can help many in that respect. It of course doesn't have to be the K110, any decent micro collective pitch heli these days will work. The OMP Hobby M1 likely the best in my opinion, but it's a fair bit more spendy than the K110 (at least the original K110 shown in this video). Also consider your current transmitter in this decision and what micro CP helis are out there that will work with it (unless you don't mind using the inexpensive X6 radio that comes with the K110 RTF version). I also presume you are getting help from a heli instructor at your flying club? If not however, perhaps you just need some tips to help you get into forward flight/circuit flying? If that is the case, as you likely know, there are a series of progressive skill building steps when transitioning from tail-in as you move toward circuits and new orientations. If you don't have a heli instructor that is helping you with those progressive skill building steps, feel free to use the flight school on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters.html By the sounds of it, you have more or less mastered all the skills up to Day 5 of that flight school (tail in figure 8), and are now ready for day 6 (nose forward skinny figure 8) to start working on your side on orientation skills & forward flight. If you have any questions related to learning to transition to circuit flying or any other questions about the flight school lessons/other, feel free to contact me through my website as I don't generally see follow up questions in the comment section of YT. Hope that helps a bit & happy flights!
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John. Nice to hear the Canadian accent! I'm new to RC helis, although I built an Align TRX 400 about ten years ago but never learned properly. I'm hoping to learn on my Blast XK110.
I have. The fight school is on my website, both written & video examples of the 10 day course - same one I use pretty much when instructing one on one: www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters.html
John, what's the largest battery that this heli can use? Also, will the K123 battery fit in this? Keep up the great work, your videos really help would-be heli pilots like myself.
Battery size is specific as I show in the video with the battery measurements due to the battery holster mounting method. There is no room for anything larger. No a K123 battery will not fit.
Hey John, I really enjoy everyone of your heli videos. I have a question, what do you recommend, going from E119 to XK110 or directly to E160? E119 is a great heli, but I would like to go forward that. Best regards.
Hi John great review ,can I ask ,I've been flying nitro and electric helis on and off for 20 years but never had the courage to have a go at inverted or rolls etc,but this heli would be perfect,to actually flip a heli upside down do you just give it full left/right or forward/back with high rates ,(I understand idle up for negative pich),it's just I gave it a go sometime ago and the heli just went fast to the right without actually going upside down ,is it basically the same control as a roll or loop with a rc plane but with collective thrown in as well ? Many thanks Mark uk
Hi Mark, Yep, just flip or roll inverted. The more cyclic authority you have on your heli, the faster you can get in & out of inversion. The most difficult aspect of inverted are the control reversals. Collective is of course backwards. While in inverted tail in orientation, cyclic roll (aileron) is normal, but cyclic pitch (elevator will be backwards). While in inverted nose in orientation, cyclic roll is backwards and cyclic pitch becomes backwards. Tail rotor direction is the same so nothing new to learn there at least. Most people find it best to get these inverted reversals memorized on your flight sim first (like while learning nose in reversals), then take that sim practice to the heli; but no question, if you don't like spending time on a sim, these little micro CP things are good little inverted orientation training tools as well.
this is a great video it really explained a lot for me. I think I'm going to get one of these to try and get back into heli. I never transitioned to CP and always wanted to. This maybe the ticket. thank you sir for your great video!
Hi, can you please tell me if there is a retainer for the tail blade to stick with the motor shaft(like a nut or something). I have hitted a wall with the tail blade and it went off. It looks likes there is no retainer but I want to be sure before I fly with it again! Thank you for your review, it's very instructive for a newbie like myself even if english isn't my native language !
It's meant to be like that (pretty much like every other coreless direct drive micro tail rotor assembly). Friction fit only. It's a good mechanical fuse to save the motor at the expense of the tail rotor blade.
Thanks for this John, greetings from Scotland. It's really interesting to hear how you would set up the transmitter for a beginner... I am a beginner and just got a Blade Nano S2. I find the collective pitch mode FAR too responsive. It is extremely difficult to hover. I was wondering if this was because I'm such a beginner, or because the heli had an unfortunate landing in a pan of water last week... but now I'm wondering if it's because of the TX setup curves... (which are not editable!) As a beginner, would you recommend that I replace my Blade nano with something like the xk k110, or just invest in a good radio that I can appropriately program for my skill level?
Hi John, I cover this question in detail on my website, specifically in my flight school section and on my Best RC helicopter page and RC radio pages. The short of it as I state many times and when instructing others to fly is that EVERYTHING about learning how to fly & progress on a collective pitch RC helicopter is in the setup. To correctly setup any collective pitch RC helicopter, you need a computerized radio. The radio is way more important than the helicopter in other words. I of course can't advise if the "water incident" isn't also messing something up (I would need fly the heli to determine if something is wrong with it); but there is no question, if you are trying to learn with a conventional collective pitch range that you get with the compromised out of the box setup on your Nano, you are going to have a difficult time learning. Micros of this size are already overly responsive and squirrely in nature due to their low mass & inertia, so it's even more difficult if they are not "tamed" down. So many give up on the hobby for this simple reason. So yes, get a proper computerized DSM Spektrum or multi-protocol radio for your Nano S2 so you can tame it down correctly & setup it to suit your flying style. You'll then have a radio you can grow with in the hobby moving forward. Again my website covers all this in much more detail: www.rchelicopterfun.com/ Hope that helps a bit - cheers.🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks so much John! This is super helpful, and very kind of you to give such a comprehensive response. I will head over to your website now. Thanks!
Hi John, great video, thanks a lot. I got a problem with the helicopter and was wondering if it is hardware or 'software' problem. I programmed the X7 as indicated in manual. The heli doesn't lift off the ground in full Throttle. and then it moves 5cm off the ground rather unstable (I did reset the gyro). All in all, it is frustrating and I would appreciate any help. I am. aware it is a short video, but maybe, if you hear the sound of the rotors, you already get the idea... thanks a lot for any help. Br, Ft
Lack of lift on any collective pitch helicopter is due to one of two things (or a combination of both): 1. Not enough collective rotor pitch. 2. Not enough head speed. I cover this in detail on the RC Helicopter Lift page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-lift.html These two issues are almost always caused by incorrect setup. The K110, like most collective pitch helicopters will hover at about +5 degrees of collective pitch. So the first thing to confirm is your pitch curve is giving you at least +5 at mid stick (assuming you want a mid stick hover), and at least +8 at high stick (flying style dependent of course). Likewise your throttle curve should be set to give at minimum 60-65% power at 1/4 stick and up. Weak battery is of course the other possible reason for not enough head speed if your throttle curve checks out, but incorrect setup is usually the culprit. If you are not sure how to correctly setup a collective pitch RC helicopter for your experience level and flying style, my ebook covers the process in detail: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html I also touch on the basics of CP setup in this video: ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks a lot, I guess I needed to learn a lot of things today, pitch, throttle, collective (!) rotor pitch, programming the remote (that was not easy for a beginner)... tonight i will go through your ebook. In the end it was some weird hardware damage, that I fixed (see 2nd video). Well, I did fly this heli in the past - mainly against walls and other obstacles, it got quite damaged. I really appreciate your answer a lot, it is really nice if someone gets back to you and provides an explanation. Thank you a thousand times for your time invested. Thanks, thanks, thanks! Have a great weekend!
Hey John, long story short I cut the tail motor wire (to remove from tail boom) and tried twisting and soldering to put back on. Soldering doesn't adhere for some reason. I did this twice and the first time it worked fine, but the second it's not working. My question is, how do I repair the cut motor wires? Are they able to be soldered and I'm doing something wrong? (the long story is I tried an upgraded brushless tail motor and found it was just too much weight for the heli). Appreciate any tips or advice!
Presuming you are referencing the two small gauge enameled copper conductor wires, I have no idea why you are having a hard time soldering them? They are just normal enameled solid core copper winding wire that solders up fine. Without seeing your soldering technique, the equipment you are using, the type of solder & flux, your tip working temperature (ie. hot enough to boil off the enamel coating at the solder point so the wire ends can be properly tinned first), etc; I'm in the dark as to why you can't solder splice them back together. Only other tip I could offer is an overlap solder butt joint splice on tiny solid core wire is a better joint method than a twisted splice in this tight spaced application.
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you for your response. Those are the two wires I was referring to. After I sent this I thought about the coating. I don't think I melted through it. I was also using a new mini portable iron for the first time so it might not have been hot enough (300°).
I have got my XK110, and my it flies lovely really smooth and controllable- it inspires confidence in my flying.Much better introduction to r/c heli's than the XK130 which is a bit intimidating (and breaks too easy) I can easily fly circuits, do pirhouettes so am a competent flyer really.What will be the easiest 3d stunt I should try with my XK110, perhaps a roll? I am scared to flick it into 3d mode, just happy really flying it sedately, at least it will stay in one piece, which is priority.
Learn to fly it in 3D mode first (normal gyro stabilization - no auto level help). Get away from that auto level help as soon as possible as it's only building lots of bad habits and sets most people back. Only after you can fly circuits really well with that auto level crap turned off with just normal gyro stabilization turned on, will you be ready to get into aerobatic flying. Loop's are generally the easiest for most people to start with, but again, you must be proficient at flying circuits first with no auto level help. Also learn nose in hovering (with auto level turned off) before getting into aerobatics because many times the heli will get away from you while practicing acro and when that happens, a good chance it will be facing you (with auto level turned off). Simulator time also helps a lot once progressing into aerobatics. Make sure your setup is good too (symmetrical collective range).
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanx John for your detailed reply, I do fly with aut leveling on, just because it's a default setting, I don't really need it on.I am proficient at all you said, circuits, I can do pirhouttes.I have been flying planes, heli's for many years, (and now drone's). I just never really moved to aerobatics with a heli, I am really liking the Xk110, it's better than the XK130 which I found to be weak. Will have to try aerobatics in the park, obviously better to crash on grass.I don't really want to crash it at all and would be happy just to keep flying sport flying as long as my heli is protected.Eventually want to be getting a 400 size heli. Haven't got a sim, but it might be a good investment as I move into heli aerobatics.
Hi jhon, i have the wltoys v 977 and looks very similar, do you know if is the same electronics???, i use my v977 with the provided transmiter but i also have the radiomaster tx16s and i would like to binded to the open tx...
No idea what RF protocol the wltoys V977 is using. All of XK's helicopters use Futaba's S-FHSS protocol as I mention in the review (one of their many strong points). If the V997 uses a different protocol, then you will have to identify if it's an RF protocol that is supported by the Multi-Protocol module. This information can be found on the Multi-Module.org website (one of the must bookmark sites if you are using a multiprotocol module OpenTX radio system).
Would you recommend the K130 or K110 for my first CP heli? Is the K110 perhaps a little more forgiving if crashed? I also have my eyes on K123 / K124 as a scale heli. I guess these fly a little more smoother but not ideal for 3D stunts. Thanks
The K130 is over powered and tail hold is poor. The K123 & 124 are scale and scale details are fragile. As they are scale, they are also heavier so more energy is released in a crash and therefor, more damage usually occurs. They have more rotating head mass as well due to the multi blade rotor, so tail hold and performance is not as crisp due to the increase in reactive torque off the main rotor. The tail motors have to work harder countering that increase in reactive torque and the main motors have work harder spinning more than two blades so the 123 & 124 are also not as efficient. Either are no smoother than the 110 with the right setup. As a first CP heli and if you want to learn on a micro, the 110 is just about ideal for the overall performance, robustness, and price.
@@tommylux247 Totally depends on your setup and flying style. Given similar setup and flying style however, yes the 110 gives a little more air time between battery changes.
Hi John, I am looking forward to watching your video on XK's X6 transmitter. In that video, would you PLEASE give the exact values you recommend for a "tame", beginner-friendly setup of the K110? I guess quite a few people will follow your advice ... Thank you very much!
The X6 radio review is being uploaded right now. I cover beginner setup values in my "Setup & Tips" eBook. Not for just this heli, but any collective pitch RC helicopter. www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Hi John, thank you for the reference to your eBook, the value of which is certainly beyond doubt. But hey, I'd better not get in danger of drowning while you are the only person around. I guess you would hold me a lecture on the principles of swimming rather than throwing me a life-belt! ;) - But nevermind, I'll find out anyway.
@ Christian Lavagno If you fully understood all that's involved in CP setup, you would also understand why I can't just toss values out there to plug into a radio. CP heli setup is as much mechanical as it is electronic; these are not mechanically simplistic quad copters after all. You have 3 cyclic servos that all have slight variation to arm position & thus pushrod length; from servo to servo & from heli to heli. That affects pitch curve and pitch channel centering values. I do however mention all the dual rate values in the video which you can plug in & experiment with. Even if it was possible to also give you exact pitch and throttle curve numbers to plug into your radio, that 1. wouldn't teach you a thing about collective pitch RC helicopter setup (you'll always be asking for a life belt when you could have just learned to swim once); And 2. how would that be fair to the people who have invested in my eBooks & supported me & my website throughout the years? That awesome patronage over the years is after all what has made it possible to make these videos in the first place. If it wasn't for those folks, this video wouldn't even exist.
Hi James, the K110s is harder to see while flying than the original K110 😄 In all seriousness, not that much other than a slightly different layout and an updated FBL system. The very best thing about the original K110 - the low price of admission for a very good little micro CP heli has also been replaced with a larger price tag on the S version. Unfortunate since the K110S is the replacement for the original K110.
Just ordered one from amazon because it looks like the perfect upgrade over my blade 70s, I may upgrade to a larger model in the future like the eachine e160 and I was wondering if the k110’s transmitter would work for that heli so I could save some money and get the bnf version.
Hello! I ordered the 1 battery version of this, but I found a pack of 3.8V 450 mAh batteries. However, I see that the batteries this heli uses are 3.7V. Will I kill the heli with a 3.8V battery? I'm completely new to this, btw, if it wasn't apparent already. Thanks for your help!
LiPo cell nominal voltage is 3.7V. Fully charged however, they are allowed to be as high as 4.2V. The 3.8V rating is likely some non-standard nominal voltage indication only. I'm sure it's still a normal LiPo cell, with a normal operating voltage range. Testing the voltage with a volt meter after the charge cycle is however the only way to be 100% sure.
@john salt A need help my aileron on the transmitter show the left aileron on full left and right on full right a can srnd som picks if needed!!need help😔😔plz
A different heli won't help with coordinated turn practice - especially a smaller heli because they are even harder. Not sure if you are following a lesson plan, but Day's 7,8&9 of my flight school on my website are the 3 days that teach corradiated turn fundamentals.
If you are considering a micro size heli - then yes, I feel this is one of the best micro CP helicopters currently on the market to start with due to the value & good parts support. My best RC helicopter page on my website may help as well: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html
I broke the rotor head, the bit that attached one of the blade grips to the feathering shaft, and bent the driveshaft on mine when I crashed on its second outing... ;_;
I bought a Frsky XD9Plus for flying quads a couple years back. Im looking into getting into helis. Is there a module I could buy to make it compatible with the BNF version, or would I be better off picking up the RTF version?
Nice to hear someone using the correct term "quads" to accurately describe their quadcopters instead of drones. You have earned my upmost respect Eric. 👍 Anyway, there are certainly multi-protocol modules out there allowing you to use your XD9+ with any Futaba SFHSS RX (what's used in all of XK's heli). I think you would be happier going that route if you already like your 9+ radio, over the almost toy like XK X6. With that said, the X6 radio is not half bad & it certainly works and has the main programming fuctions to allow you to properly setup a collective pitch RC helicopter. It of course has some limitations that go along with the low cost. The biggest two is not having any graphical representation for your pitch & throttle curves along with no output menu screen to help point out programming blunders. Channel travel output programming is limited to the funny dual direction dual rate settings and there doesn't seem to be any way to program the mix percentage values for 120 degree swash mixing. Not a big deal with any of XK's helis since the 120 swash mixing is done within the FBL system. If you decide to go the multi-moudule route and use your FrSky TX, I'm most familiar with the iRangeX external modules that plug into the JR port at the back of the radio (what I use with my FrSky Horus), but I've also seen smaller lower cost ones specifically for the XD9+. Here is one example: www.banggood.com/custlink/GKKYJqwsQY No idea how well that one works, but it seems a popular low cost choice for micro size aircraft (limited range). If you don't know much about multi-protocol yet, I highly recommend spending some time on the multi-module.org website - lots of great info in there that might help you decide if it's worth the hassle at this stage or just get the RTF K110 to even see if you enjoy collective pitch helicopters. www.multi-module.org/
John Salt thanks a ton for the input! I’ll likely check out the cheap module. If so I’ll let you know how it goes after watching your setup vid. Keep up the great work!
Hi John, great review as always. I have a K110 on the way and can't wait to start flying it. I don't suppose you would be kind enough to share your Open TX setup for this model?
Great review and flying lesson! I have an E-flite 129 which is fun and it's taught me some basics but this chopper can do a lot more. Brushless motor as well! :) Did you do the adjustments, taming it down, on the transmitter? (subscribed!)
Yep, like any collective pitch heli, they are tamed down to suit your specific flying style and skill level with radio output programming as shown in my setup & tips ebook. As for availability of the K110, the original XK K110 is still available, you just have to search for them. They have the new K110S model however, but it doesn't offer the same good value as the original IMO. amzn.to/3HxDae5
@John salt do you have any used helicopters for sale? I’m looking for my first collective pitch helicopter. I have done the eflite simulator once and was able to fly okay.
Sorry, none currently. Any time I have one however, I list it/them on my Used RC Equipment page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/used-rc-equipment.html Just sold a Trex 150X on that page as you can see. May want to bookmark that page and keep checking every now and then. I don't have anything in the pipeline as far as small CP helis but that can always change.
Great video as always John. I was just wondering (and probably know the answer) if this can be bound to a Spektrum Tx with a Satellite? I saw a video with an XK K110 and DX6 but no explanation.
No way I know of. The internal RX uses Futaba S-FHSS protocol, and there is no provision for external DSM RX connectivity like on the XK K130. Perhaps some very skilled, electronically trained individual/s has figured out how to "hack" a DSM RX into the control board, but even if that's the case, the weight increase would be rather detrimental to performance on such a small, light, 1S powered micro. It would make much more sense IMO to just get a BNF Blade Nano S2 if you want a micro CP heli of this size/performance that runs on Spektrum's DSM2/X protocol.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John, I did get the Nano S2 but it's a disappointment. There are quality control issues that Horizon Hobby is giving me a hard time about and my local hobby shop (where I purchased it) wouldn’t help. Horizon uses quality-control confirmation tape to seal the boxes after they supposedly check the product over including a test flight but you wouldn’t know it from the flight behaviour, wrinkled decals and loose feathering spindle on my heli. My (used) DX9 arrived today so I’ll see if I can tweak ‘er up with the help of your eBook. I’ve got a well-used RTF WLToys V977 (great heli) with lots of spares that fit the XK so I was hoping to utilize them without getting into another Tx. I did watch your Eachine E160 video where you explain how to bind it with Spektrum so I’ll probably go that route.
If I get it from banggood with the 4 batteries, will it be brand new. I've seen a few reviews of people saying their items were refurbished. Also, I'm thinking of getting this as an upgrade from my v911, should I get this as I really want to learn to fly 3d as it seems very enjoyable and basic 4ch helicopters are boring.
Very happy with mine. It has taken many very hard knocks and required minimal repairs. I wouldn't know what people mean by refurbished. Every part on the helicopter is replaceable. If they were to refurbish a returned one I don't know how you'd be able to tell.
Let Horizon know your thoughts. In the past 12 years I've had my website and now UA-cam channel, I've been contacting Horizon multiple times requesting Blade helicopters to review, they don't even have the courtesy to respond back! XK and OMP Hobby on the other hand have gone above & beyond over the past 10 months, eagerly sending me any heli I'm personally interested in to review when I request it. All the E-Flite and Blade helicopters I've reviewed & promoted over the past 12 years on my website, were purchased on my own dime and I simply can't keep that up any longer. Especially knowing how many people worldwide have purchased Blade product over the past decade + on my enthusiastic recommendations; and Horizon doesn't even have the courtesy to get back to me when I politely ask them if they would be willing to send me a heli to review. Even Align, SAB, Bergen RC, Vario, & Roban have taken the time to get back to me and offer discount pricing at least.
@@Rchelicopterfun Very disappointing to hear that about HH as I've literally dropped $2k on aircraft, radio, chargers & batteries in the 1.5 months. I'm really interested in getting away from proprietary ecosystems and am doing my research on the Radiomaster TX now..
By pitch curve programming and measuring your collective pitch angles... All covered in my Setup & Tips eBook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html This basics of setup video I did may also help: ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html
I really am thinking about getting one of these to get better flying my bigger birds ,does the tail hold when doing flips and rolls ? And how bad is crash damage ?
John Salt thanks for the reply ! I’m practicing with some old McPx helis I have but when I go to flip the tail blows out then the crash breaks the tail boom I fly 450 size helis but no 3D with them yet just sport thanks again for the reply!!!
I'm not going to search comments but I would recommend that when you say that you've tamed down the remote that you'd let us ignorant beginners know how to do that. Thanks.
I do show how to - many times and for many years. I have an eBook on it as I stated in the video: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html So many beginners have successfully tamed their collective pitch helicopters down for learning on by following the time proven steps I outline in that eBook which are the same procedures I use when instructing one on one. In addition to that, I have a full RC heli flight school section on my website that goes over every day's lesson with both video and written instruction: www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters.html It has taught thousands of beginners world wide how to successfully learn to fly collective pitch helicopters.
What Settings on the controller ( I mean like pitch and curve etc) For a beginner trying to learn 3D easily! I want like a slow and Steady while doing 3D! Thanks!
www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html Plus months of practice both on a flight simulator & on your collective pitch helicopters.
BNF is short for "Bind And Fly", meaning you'll already need a transmitter to bind to the helicopter. RTF is short for "Ready to Fly", meaning it has everything you need to fly the helicopter included in the box (transmitter and batteries). RTF can be great when you're first starting out, with the caveat that the bundled transmitters are usually cheap and of lower quality/functionality. Eventually you'll end up buying a nicer "programmable" transmitter that can be used (or "bound") to any helicopter. John Salt's website has tons of _invaluable_ information. Highly recommended! See the link in the video description above. And if you're like me, you'll find him responsible for your hopeless addition to helicopters :-) 🤩🚁
No, you can't turn the gyros off. Like most FBL systems with auto-level stabilization mode, you can only turn the accelerometers off to disable auto-level and thus put the heli into normal gyro mode (what this heli is in). This video may help clear up the these two modes of stabilization better: ua-cam.com/video/LouYitd7jak/v-deo.htmlsi=e2gNci9alrl_VLQz
Totally depends on your flying style and how you want it setup. As I say in the video, I cover all that in the setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Thanks - was just about to order, but not sure which one is appropriate here. As this has no flybar, but is a beginner CP. Which should I get? @@Rchelicopterfun
I have ordered :) @@Rchelicopterfun quick question. I have too much pitch at the bottom, and too little at the top. Does that mean I need to raise or lower the swashplate? Thanks in advance.
can I ship my heli to you and pay you to set it up? It is driving me crazy. I just cannot get the swashplate level no matter what I try. I am starting to think I need an old priest and a young priest as it may be cursed.
Mines also pretty nice, glad to have it next to my M2. Maybe you know where the strange noise of my M2 when slowing down on my channel is coming from? It hears like there’s sth rubbing,but nothing’s touching the motor and I lubricated everything like bearing but it doesn’t disappear. Maybe you know why?
I watched your video. All I can hear when you are spooling up with the head on are the carbon landing skids vibrating against the surface (ground resonance). Very normal if that's the source of the noise. If you spool up on a soft surface like a carpet or mat does is still happen? Please contact me through my website if you wish to discuss further.
Sorry - I don't understand what "this set" is referencing? If you mean the XK X6 radio/transmitter that comes with the RTF K110; then yes, the X6 radio can be used with the e160 as well (both using Futaba S-FHSS protocol).
You can learn to fly with any RC helicopter without a simulator, including the K110. That is after all how we all used to learn before personal computers were powerful enough to emulate RC heli flight physics and environments. A simulator is however a great teaching tool when used correctly, especially once you've mastered the tail in hover. This page on my site covers this topic in much more detail: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-flight-simulator.html
@@brettmccafferty7510 The Nano S2 has more in common with the XK K100 as both use a brushed coreless main motor over the brushless main motor used in the K110. The biggest difference with all of XK's micro's is the use of rotary servos instead of linear like on the Nano, that and the supported RF protocol (Futaba S-FHSS vs. Spektrum DSM2/X).
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you. As long as I can learn to fly on something inexpensive I will be happy. I really want to work my way up to flying something like the trex700.
Ready to fly K110 heli package reviewed in this video: www.banggood.com/custlink/K3DmeeTSUq
XK X6 Computerized Radio Review Video: ua-cam.com/video/lzW9m8899Tk/v-deo.html
How to correct setup collective pitch RC helicopters eBook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
If you don't know how to build your own micro training gear: www.rchelicopterfun.com/helicopter-training-gear.html
John, I have all of your ebooks and like your teaching style. It would be great if you can do a helicopter setup video for openTx transmitter users, I just picked up a jumper but I am struggling with the programming, especially since I came from spektrum. Great vid as always!
Hi Keith, I'll see what I might be able to come up with. The biggest issue with OpenTX how-to tutorials is there are so many ways to achieve the same end result it's basically impossible to cover everything and to be honest I likely don't use the power of OpenTX near to it's potential. I can of course show my narrow, somewhat simplistic layout, but then that somewhat undervalues the reason for getting OpenTX in the first place - to make it yours. In the mean time, I'm sure you've already spent a good deal of time on the OpenTX University website, but that site was my savior when I switched from Spektrum & JR to OpenTX. Every single thing I've learned to do, and how to work an OpenTX radio, came from that site exclusively. I personally don't think I could hold a candle flame to the amazing amount of good information that site has already got available, but we will see. Thanks for the suggestion, your support & patronage, and the kind comments.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks for taking the time to reply
Thinking of getting one out of k100 k110 which is the one too buy your opinion cheers
@@lawrencewilliams1477 I address this exact question in the video... 1:40
Yes, I am still in this hobby because of him. Still watch his video to program the radio and flying style. Thanks John.
What an excellent review from start to finish! Clear overall and partial objectives; careful presentation planning (perhaps even faultless); clear verbal performance; script objectivity.
John, you make a great job helping people to get into the hobby. Hat off
Thanks.
Hello From a Advanced Noob, 65yo Elec plane Guy in Alabama. Bought couple of ur Ebooks on Helis. Tks For Your Time
Thanks for the support & happy fights 👍🙂
Tks 4 Ur sharing knowledge. Im a 16 year Rc Foam airplane pilot. At 65 yo, Have a nanos3, 150s 180cfx an 230s , ebay blades. Spectrum dx6e.
I enjoy the Overall tech, science of helis. Ive A XK 110S on the way. A couple of ur Books on coffee table. Tjs
Excellent recommendation... from beginner to expert setup correctly the 59.4g (ver 4) Blast 110 with it's tiny moment arm once said to be too small for an RC helicopter to fly under control is IMO the best 3D training RC heli due to eliminating repair down time as well as repair costs... when flown over grass it's almost unbreakable and you can stop the square carbon tail boom from spitting just by criss cross wrapping the tail boom with 1 strand of separated 3 strand Kevlar fiber string Hobby King sells using thin CA and acetone adding no discernable weight.
11:42 And just a heads up regarding the JST Molex connector XK and Walkera uses which is known to have weak insert tabs that hold the battery wire and metal connector inside the insulated plastic housing. Using a multi-meter with sharp leads pushes the insert retaining tabs flat making the issue even worse. I have had the wires come out countless times on these Molex connectors and touch another battery's opposite pole twice over the years and once I was using a Molex to red JST adaptor and fried a flight control board because both wires came out at the same time and shorted when doing amp readings because I had just been using a multimeter to get accurate voltage readings and that's when I realized the issue.
GNB just came out with a real 10A -15A burst soldered 1mm micro bullet connector for their 1S batteries to replace the terrible 2A PH 2.0 connector used on the Tiny Hawk etc. increasing flight times and decreasing voltage sag adding power and speed especially on older batteries if taken care of due to warn connectors. Weight of the new GNB 27 1 mm bullet connector @ .84g is higher than Betafpv's fairly new 9A BP 2.0 1mm bullet connector @ .58g but nice to have another 1mm micro connector coming stock on the GNB batteries as the PH 2.0 like all the various crimped JST's was never designed to be a battery connector and is only rated for 10 connections at 2A according to one spec sheet. So happy to pass it on and get the 1mm bullet connector standard going as soon I will be done with all 3 crimped JST connectors I was forced to use. Some of the red JSTs I'm seeing now are so loose fitting you can insert them with the polarity reversed so glad to see GMB create a proper standard for high C 1S batteries. BTW I found when using the Nano-Tech Nine-Eagle 45/90C 300 mAh battery the flight time loss is not bad with increased performance due to lighter weight @ 55.8g and higher C rating so can't wait to see what the new bullet micro connectors adds to the B110 going from 2A (when new) to a 9 or 10A connector that doesn't ware out from use.
Thanks so much. Hadn't used my K110 for a while and it just wouldn't fly. Your clear calm and exact explanation of the heli setup enabled me to get it flying again!
Great to hear
I learnt on a Raptor 30 when these little models didn't exist. Have 2 of these now along with many other micros and they just can't be beat for indoor practice, or when the weather is rough outside.
Yep!
This heli looks like a Raptor
WOW dude!!! nobody but nobody tells ya how to set these up correctly. Ive scared off my whole family from flying cuz mine is way too twitchy. Thank you so much. I owe you some gratitude. When i buy another This week i will buy from your link
Glad it helped a bit.
Breaking news!! I'm 2 days in. Still terrified. Having a blast. Beginning to learn what everything really means but what a learning curve. I really have to say this little thing is tough as all hell! It's been kicking my living room's ass so bad that it's actually breaking things and i get up and and put the little devil back on the coffee table and it spools right back up time after time. I have a ton to learn and a lot more stuff to break so I'm diggin it!
For anyone crashing hard like me, keep an eye on the little mast collar beneath the swashplate. If you bring up collecrive and the whole mast moves upward with the collar, turn it over remove the battery and look for the main sprocket slipping downward (toward battery). Put heli on rotor head and tap the sprocket back into place or at least flush with the end of the shaft.
Everytime you crash the battery will move and change your CG. If you crash hard enough to dislodge the body from the grommets, check the battery locale. If it has moved, the front of batt tray/skid mount may have come out. If that has happened, check sprocket. All good movable bendy stuff that absorbs energy! I love it!
Ill make a gigantic training gear lol
I’ve watch many of your video and this little micro seems to get more compliments from you than any other heli you videos on! Awesome, you shooting from the hip
Have had mine a year. Love it. This is very stable flybarless controller. Much more stable than Blade MCPX. The tail holds real well when doing pitch pump s or flipping it.
When I was a kid I had a toy called VertiBird by Mattel. I dreamed of that little helicopter being remote controlled. You can be sure that I own this heli and others. Where we've come in terms of miniaturization and precision is nothing short of astonishing!
Me too - still have it in fact: ua-cam.com/video/yIs8JLvz3Lk/v-deo.html
Just bought the 110 after watching this video. My Trex 450 is just a little too big for playing in front of the house... awesome!
@Mark Turkel - Hope you like it as much as I do for at home yard practice. 👍
Just ordered the exact same RTF K110 heli today based on your review. My NX 10 radio isn't going to work, hence the RTF order. Thanks for your clear, concise videos.
my k110 is on its way from china and i just ordered the cp basics book. Cant wait to make the next step from my 70s. Thanks for putting the time in on this!
Have fun.
Excellent review! I just got the XK K110S, the upgrade on this already great little heli. I've learned the basics on an Eachine 129, now I'm ready to move on to collective pitch. Out of the box, this little chopper was waaay too aggressive for my skill level, the excellent radio that came with it tamed it quite a bit, it's now set up really sweet. I've only flown it indoors so far, practicing hovering and landing. I'm looking forward to outdoor flying. 3D aerobatic flying is for later but I am going to practice without stabilisation, as you advised. Thanks again for making these videos, it really helps. (especially because the manuals are pretty useless) Btw, you're some pilot! I love how you throw that thing around effortlessly. I hope to get somewhat good at it too, it will take time but that's ok, I'm very patient.
I have ordered xk 110 and am waiting for it, I am very excited.
Thanks for the very in-depth explanation.
Nice timing for me to see, I have ordered K110s, neber flown a proper RC helicopter otherthan few cheap flybar ones..
Got your video saved for future references ☺️
Thank's for teaching me about D/R which had me beat not knowing what it was for, as beginner of 6months and mid 50s, i need to slow my birds right down to docile lol espcially this E120S direct drive i got,so ANGRY POWER WISE out of box and been a big crash course literary "wink" but has taught me HEAPS..bought the K110s to practice more back to basic "inside" and arrived few days ago, should have started collective pitch with the 110s for sure..
thank yo so much for the tutorial. Just purchased the K110S. As you noted in the video, the D/R settings out of the box are way off. Using your settings made it much more stable.
Glad it helped
I want to thank you for this Video, the k110 is now my way to CP helicopter flying, it was so awsome and usefull to me and helped a lot to make my decision.
meanwhile i looked a lot of your videos and like the good tips and honest requests in it.
Glad to hear you're having fun flying it. 👍
I can only fly mine indoors based on where i live. I love these XK but not sure which can be tamed the most. I'd also like to replace the charging system with an on/off switch so i can charge without removing the battery while the heli is off
I bougth mine yesterday after having a bad experience with a nine eagles bravo. I hope this one is tougher than the other one. Nice video by the way.
Debating between this and Blade 230s as a next step after getting comfortable with the Blade 70s. I like that the 70s can get crashed over and over with minimal damage, but it can't stand up to wind well at all. I only fly outside. Thinking the 230s would hold up to the wind better than the k110, but both should be better than the 70s. 230s should be more stable, but much more expensive when crashed. Does that all sound accurate? Any thoughts or recommendations?
@ryan52403 - I cover this very compromise on the best RC helicopter page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html
As that page and what you have already stated, the bigger you go, the better the flying experience with improved predictability, stability & fluidity. You can also see them much better. The compromise is cost and crash robustness/survivability. The larger you go, the more energy is released when the ground gets in the way and the more parts you will have in your shopping cart afterward.
Any collective pitch RC helicopter, even the tiny K110 is going to be able to handle more wind than any fixed pitch micro so don't discount the k110 if wind handling is an important consideration, especially if you want something that can crash without breaking. No question however, the larger and heavier they helicopter, the more wind it can cope with while still remaining somewhat enjoyable to fly.
Consider your flying area as well, do you have enough room for a 230? It's too big for average size yard flying, at least if you want to have any fun over and above basic hover control exercises.
Perhaps something between the two would also be worth consideration? Something like an OMP M1 which has a fair amount of small heli crash robustness, but feels & fly's larger than it is thanks to OMP's amazing flybarless system tuning.
Regardless of what you get, it's all compromise - choose the bird that checks off the most boxes.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John, you make a good point about the 230s, a smaller heli would be more convenient and allow for backyard flying. Really like the M1, but leaning towards the k110 as it seems that even the M1, which is similar in size but double the weight, has more issues with breaking (I found a forum with lots of complaints). If I get good enough on the K110 I'm thinking I could skip to the M2, which I think would be small enough to do backyard flying once I'm good enough, but big enough to be able to fly at greater distances as well.
So glad to see you review this john, invaluable information in the detail of your videos and ebooks. I have the k110m and slowly making progress on my orientation. Your ebooks have helpd me so much. Cheers from the uk
Glad it was helpful!
@@Rchelicopterfun Could you show setting this heli up on your horus?
Great video, and some cool flying skills you have. I have been flying model planes for years and i got one of these and took it outside and did the biggest figure seven i ever seen, parts everywhere, LOL I started out with a v911 and thought i was ready to try 3D and man was i wrong, now that i seen your video i am going to get another one and watch this again and set it up and try again i learned more about helis in the last 30 minutes than i learned in the last 30 years.
I have a heli flight school (written & video) on my website that may also help. www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters.html
Very first skill to learn & master with collective pitch helicopters is the tail in hover (staying close to the ground). Everything moving forward is built on that single primary skill set.
Hi John, thanks once more for sharing these helpful and funny kinds of stuff. By the way, I'm one of your readers and I read all of your books as well!
From BraSil, best of all!
Thanks.
11:59, 4.22 volts is actually right within margin of error for most lithium ion sub-chemistries. There is no real need for concern unless the battery is exceeding like 4.3 volts.
While 4.22V may not cause any immediate harm or danger, it is most certainly reducing life cycles. According to all the LiPo data reports I have read not to mention my own experiences over the past decade +. 4.20V is even pushing it and why the mobile device industry and many RC'ers have their cell termination voltage set at 4.15V. I cover this in more detail on my LiPo Battery page: www.rchelicopterfun.com/lipo-batteries.html
Of course on cheap little low capacity 1S packs like these used in high current discharge devices like this, I'm sure the packs will fail from over discharging and poor storage practices long before the effect of 0.02 of charge voltage potential will come into play 🙂
I just got mine. I put it on flight hold before my 1st flight and when I move the sticks maxed movement position sometimes the servos make a clicking sound. Have you ruin into that before? Broken servo out of the box? Also what battery charger do you recommend?
Really enjoy your videos John. I'm already hovering in all orientations with a fixed-pitch micro, and now I'm looking for a CP trainer (with stabilization that can be switched off) for learning loops, rolls, inverted. Would you recommend the M1, K110, or perhaps the E 120S ? Thank you.
Glad to hear you are progressing nicely. As for a product recommendation... I don't know what the E120S is like yet, so I comment on it. The K110 is good value, but M1's are impressive and without question a better quality heli (as the price increase would suggest). I would say if you want to fly indoors as well, the K110 is better suited. If outdoors only and in some wind, the M1 would get my vote. Also consider parts support. I always recommend that being one of the first considerations of any heli brand purchase (how easy or difficult is it to source parts for a specific brand in your specific location).
how do you adjust?
Adjust what?
i have one and i tried to do a power loop and the tail gave out lol
I recieved my awaited xk k110 rc helicopter today and it just spins in circles, so i went online and found out how to calibrate the gyroscopes and it helped a little so i tried trimming the rotationand the boom fell out, I put it back in and its worse. never took it more than 3 ft off the ground. people that have reviewed this say its realy tuff and can handle some crashes, mine couldnt handle a soft landing.
So who do i send this thing back to?
To understand why an RC helicopter is spinning (yawing) in circles, it helps immensely to understand the basics of helicopter flight physics. www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-controls.html
My page on Yaw specifically addresses these issues:
www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-rudder.html
A hard yaw is due to either too much or too little tail thrust in relation to main rotor reactive torque. You never mentioned which way the direction of yaw was so I have no way to know which of the two it might be. However, 90% of the time (on these little micros anyway), fast yaw rate issues the moment you get light on the skids are due to not enough tail thrust to counter the reactive torque off the main rotor.
This would be a counter-clockwise yaw (nose turning left) on the K110 which has a clockwise rotating main rotor. If that's the direction of yaw (counter-clockwise/left), the two most common causes on these tiny collective pitch helis with fixed pitch direct drive tail motors are either a slipping tail rotor on the tail motor shaft or a faulty motor. I've also seen tail motor wiring faults on little micros and lastly, a faulty control circuit (either the gyro or the speed control circuit in the ESC).
Calibration on the K110 by the way has no impact on the the tail gyro performance - it's for your cyclic gyros to improve cyclic drifting only.
As to where you would send it back. Obviously to the vendor you purchased it from.
Was CONSIDERING this as a little mild NOT wild flying day heli..now im ordering it..thanks.
Enjoy it
if the blades are not level? it's level at 41% throttle.. this is my eachine e120s how do I correct this John on the stock s-fhss radio?
Would really appreciate a video on how to configure this Heli for the tx16s, with all the adjustments you made for beginners
Tame beginner setup is covered in my Setup & Tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
The basics of OpenTX Heli setup I cover in this video: ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun I wish there was a video series (paid, I dont mind) for the setup and tame beginner, because honestly following an ebook might be a bit hard. Just my opinion of course.
High John, I need your help. I bought one of these XK-110s helicopters and it arrived with the box beat up a little with no apparent damage other than a retaining nut fell off a switch which I put back on. The tail rotor is inoperable. The main rotor can get to speed but the tail never attempts to come on. When I moved it from table to ground the first time the tail came on for a moment and stopped which is normal with me moving the tail, I think. When on the ground I spooled it up and it spun around very quickly and of course tipped over. I checked the connections on the board and all appear tight. I can whip the tail left to right and no action occurs. The board light is on showing it bound to radio. I have contacted BANGOOD and can not get any resolution as of yet. They sent a message offering to refund 20 on the 133.00 purchase which I told them no. I would like to get it fixed. As I see it it as to be the radio, PCB, or tail motor and I don't know which it is. Can you please offer any suggestions as to what I might try here. I have a video and pictures which I sent to BANGOOD. THANK YOU
@dajatu Technical questions like this are best asked through my website contact form.
www.rchelicopterfun.com/contact.html
As I'm working from home today however - here we go...
It's hard/impossible to diagnose electrical issues like this remotely. If I had this heli on the work bench with what you are describing, I would take a systematic diagnostic approach starting at the easiest to check and most likely to fail, working down the list to hardest and least likely.
This starts at the 3 wires from the ESC at the front of the heli all the way down to the tail motor. Wiggling, pushing, pulling on them along the entire lenght can often get things working intermittently indicating a poor solder connection, open/short in one of the wires, bad connector, etc. Probing each wire with a DMM to see if it's conducting from end to end or shorted to one another is another check if you have a basic DMM with continuity measurement.
Next item to suspect is the motor itself. While it is possible to sometime fix a defective motor, it's well beyond the scope of a YT comment reply and limited time I have not to mention the low cost of a new tail motor - just replace it.
Next item would be the ESC. If it's suspect, replace it.
Next up is the radio (transmitter). This actually is worth checking first because it's an easy item to check, but it's also very unlikely ie. it wasn't programmed correctly at the factory and there is simply no rudder channel output. If you have another RC model that works with S-FHSS protocol that you can bind to the radio to see if the rudder channel it outputting correctly that is the easiest method. Other option is if you have an S-FHSS receiver and servo you could hook up to the rudder channel to see if it's working. Or play around with the rudder channel (CH4) output programming within the radio so it's definitely producing a -100 to +100 output with full stick movement.
The very last item to suspect would be the main control board on the helicopter as they simply rarely fail and when they do, I've never once seen just one channel effected; nothing will work, or it works sporadically.
My money is on the wiring or motor as they are the two weakest links in the system, but that certainly doesn't mean it couldn't be something else.
John Salt Thanks for your review. I couldnt fly a few years. Want to get back into Helis. Still have my Tarot 450 but want to get the hang of it again with a micro Heli.
My Walkera Mini CP brushless is old and needs a new build up. Seems there are hardly spares sold.
So I need a new micro.
- Low price / value for money
- very forgiving crashes
- Brushless
Are my needs.
Align 150X
Blade Nano s2 or Mcpx BL2
XK K110
What do you recommend?
I still remember nine eagles hat a great micro.
The Market has changed so much.
I didnt even know any XK Models before. Walkera seems dead.
So thankful for a reply John! 😊
With low price/value for money being the first box to check on your list, the K110 is the clear winner. It's also the most robust out of what you have listed as it has the least amount of energy and weight to dissipate during a crash. Keep in mind only the main motor is brushless on the K110, not the tail.
If you want the tail motor to be brushless as well, then the mCPX BL2 would be better value than the Align 150X which is the higher end heli of what you have listed and the price reflects that quality. If you have the Align 150X on your list, you should also have the OMP Hobby M1. Pretty much the cream of the crop in that size class IMO.
I of course don't know what radio system you might already have, so that is a deciding factor as well if it will work with one of these brands so you don't also have to get a new radio which is the more important item over the heli.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks a lot. The K110 is ordered. Youre a flying legend 🙌 you inspired me to get back into helis. Kills the corona boredness being so restricted at home. Love the Micros for that
Hi John, i currently have a trex 600N ...i can hover and slide it from side to side tail in only.... but cant seem to get past thus step...some guys at my club reccomended this xk110 so i feel more confidnt to try circuits and progress my skills....would you recommend this?
@PilotChris06FW. Yes I would agree the XK110 is a great little at home practice aid and if you are not getting much benefit from your simulator that translates over to the 600N, then a small and fairly crash proof micro can help many in that respect.
It of course doesn't have to be the K110, any decent micro collective pitch heli these days will work. The OMP Hobby M1 likely the best in my opinion, but it's a fair bit more spendy than the K110 (at least the original K110 shown in this video). Also consider your current transmitter in this decision and what micro CP helis are out there that will work with it (unless you don't mind using the inexpensive X6 radio that comes with the K110 RTF version).
I also presume you are getting help from a heli instructor at your flying club? If not however, perhaps you just need some tips to help you get into forward flight/circuit flying? If that is the case, as you likely know, there are a series of progressive skill building steps when transitioning from tail-in as you move toward circuits and new orientations.
If you don't have a heli instructor that is helping you with those progressive skill building steps, feel free to use the flight school on my website:
www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters.html
By the sounds of it, you have more or less mastered all the skills up to Day 5 of that flight school (tail in figure 8), and are now ready for day 6 (nose forward skinny figure 8) to start working on your side on orientation skills & forward flight.
If you have any questions related to learning to transition to circuit flying or any other questions about the flight school lessons/other, feel free to contact me through my website as I don't generally see follow up questions in the comment section of YT.
Hope that helps a bit & happy flights!
Thanks for all this help. I'm a beginner and really appreciate this help.
Happy to help
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John. Nice to hear the Canadian accent! I'm new to RC helis, although I built an Align TRX 400 about ten years ago but never learned properly. I'm hoping to learn on my Blast XK110.
Hi John, Your reviews are excellent. Have you had the chance to compare the XK K110 to it's newer version the XK K110S and what are the differences?
@Steve Kovarie - sorry no idea on the K110S or what the difference/s are.
You should make a heli flight school series teaching how to fly a heli with collective. That would be amazing.
I have. The fight school is on my website, both written & video examples of the 10 day course - same one I use pretty much when instructing one on one: www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters.html
@@Rchelicopterfun I was surfing your channel shortly after I commented and found it lol. Thanks for making the series, I will watch every video.
John, what's the largest battery that this heli can use? Also, will the K123 battery fit in this? Keep up the great work, your videos really help would-be heli pilots like myself.
Battery size is specific as I show in the video with the battery measurements due to the battery holster mounting method. There is no room for anything larger. No a K123 battery will not fit.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John.
Thank you so much! It's very helpful and I got this XK K110 a few days ago!
Just ordered mine! upgrading from a Wltoys v912 fixed pitch.
I noticed an open servo plug on the board. Would it be ok to plug in my v912's led there?
Hey John, I really enjoy everyone of your heli videos. I have a question, what do you recommend, going from E119 to XK110 or directly to E160? E119 is a great heli, but I would like to go forward that. Best regards.
I have no experience whatsoever with the E119 so I can't make any objective comparison.
@@Rchelicopterfun John, thank you.
Hi John great review ,can I ask ,I've been flying nitro and electric helis on and off for 20 years but never had the courage to have a go at inverted or rolls etc,but this heli would be perfect,to actually flip a heli upside down do you just give it full left/right or forward/back with high rates ,(I understand idle up for negative pich),it's just I gave it a go sometime ago and the heli just went fast to the right without actually going upside down ,is it basically the same control as a roll or loop with a rc plane but with collective thrown in as well ? Many thanks Mark uk
Hi Mark, Yep, just flip or roll inverted. The more cyclic authority you have on your heli, the faster you can get in & out of inversion. The most difficult aspect of inverted are the control reversals. Collective is of course backwards. While in inverted tail in orientation, cyclic roll (aileron) is normal, but cyclic pitch (elevator will be backwards). While in inverted nose in orientation, cyclic roll is backwards and cyclic pitch becomes backwards. Tail rotor direction is the same so nothing new to learn there at least. Most people find it best to get these inverted reversals memorized on your flight sim first (like while learning nose in reversals), then take that sim practice to the heli; but no question, if you don't like spending time on a sim, these little micro CP things are good little inverted orientation training tools as well.
@@Rchelicopterfun great thanks John I'll buy one Soon ,I have the micro wltoys v911s at the moment and I'm having a blast with it at the moment :)
Oops, just noticed I said while inverted nose in, cyclic pitch is backwards - I meant normal.
@@Rchelicopterfun ;) thanks again John
Hi John,
Great video !
Where do I get the landing outriggers? i.e. "training gear" at 17:05
I make them: www.rchelicopterfun.com/helicopter-training-gear.html
this is a great video it really explained a lot for me. I think I'm going to get one of these to try and get back into heli. I never transitioned to CP and always wanted to. This maybe the ticket. thank you sir for your great video!
Great to hear!
Hi, can you please tell me if there is a retainer for the tail blade to stick with the motor shaft(like a nut or something). I have hitted a wall with the tail blade and it went off. It looks likes there is no retainer but I want to be sure before I fly with it again! Thank you for your review, it's very instructive for a newbie like myself even if english isn't my native language !
It's meant to be like that (pretty much like every other coreless direct drive micro tail rotor assembly). Friction fit only. It's a good mechanical fuse to save the motor at the expense of the tail rotor blade.
Thanks for this John, greetings from Scotland.
It's really interesting to hear how you would set up the transmitter for a beginner...
I am a beginner and just got a Blade Nano S2.
I find the collective pitch mode FAR too responsive. It is extremely difficult to hover. I was wondering if this was because I'm such a beginner, or because the heli had an unfortunate landing in a pan of water last week... but now I'm wondering if it's because of the TX setup curves... (which are not editable!)
As a beginner, would you recommend that I replace my Blade nano with something like the xk k110, or just invest in a good radio that I can appropriately program for my skill level?
Hi John, I cover this question in detail on my website, specifically in my flight school section and on my Best RC helicopter page and RC radio pages. The short of it as I state many times and when instructing others to fly is that EVERYTHING about learning how to fly & progress on a collective pitch RC helicopter is in the setup.
To correctly setup any collective pitch RC helicopter, you need a computerized radio. The radio is way more important than the helicopter in other words.
I of course can't advise if the "water incident" isn't also messing something up (I would need fly the heli to determine if something is wrong with it); but there is no question, if you are trying to learn with a conventional collective pitch range that you get with the compromised out of the box setup on your Nano, you are going to have a difficult time learning.
Micros of this size are already overly responsive and squirrely in nature due to their low mass & inertia, so it's even more difficult if they are not "tamed" down. So many give up on the hobby for this simple reason.
So yes, get a proper computerized DSM Spektrum or multi-protocol radio for your Nano S2 so you can tame it down correctly & setup it to suit your flying style. You'll then have a radio you can grow with in the hobby moving forward.
Again my website covers all this in much more detail: www.rchelicopterfun.com/
Hope that helps a bit - cheers.🙂
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks so much John! This is super helpful, and very kind of you to give such a comprehensive response. I will head over to your website now. Thanks!
Hi John, great video, thanks a lot. I got a problem with the helicopter and was wondering if it is hardware or 'software' problem. I programmed the X7 as indicated in manual. The heli doesn't lift off the ground in full Throttle. and then it moves 5cm off the ground rather unstable (I did reset the gyro). All in all, it is frustrating and I would appreciate any help. I am. aware it is a short video, but maybe, if you hear the sound of the rotors, you already get the idea... thanks a lot for any help. Br, Ft
Lack of lift on any collective pitch helicopter is due to one of two things (or a combination of both):
1. Not enough collective rotor pitch.
2. Not enough head speed.
I cover this in detail on the RC Helicopter Lift page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-lift.html
These two issues are almost always caused by incorrect setup. The K110, like most collective pitch helicopters will hover at about +5 degrees of collective pitch. So the first thing to confirm is your pitch curve is giving you at least +5 at mid stick (assuming you want a mid stick hover), and at least +8 at high stick (flying style dependent of course).
Likewise your throttle curve should be set to give at minimum 60-65% power at 1/4 stick and up.
Weak battery is of course the other possible reason for not enough head speed if your throttle curve checks out, but incorrect setup is usually the culprit.
If you are not sure how to correctly setup a collective pitch RC helicopter for your experience level and flying style, my ebook covers the process in detail: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
I also touch on the basics of CP setup in this video: ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks a lot, I guess I needed to learn a lot of things today, pitch, throttle, collective (!) rotor pitch, programming the remote (that was not easy for a beginner)... tonight i will go through your ebook. In the end it was some weird hardware damage, that I fixed (see 2nd video). Well, I did fly this heli in the past - mainly against walls and other obstacles, it got quite damaged. I really appreciate your answer a lot, it is really nice if someone gets back to you and provides an explanation. Thank you a thousand times for your time invested. Thanks, thanks, thanks! Have a great weekend!
Hey John, long story short I cut the tail motor wire (to remove from tail boom) and tried twisting and soldering to put back on. Soldering doesn't adhere for some reason. I did this twice and the first time it worked fine, but the second it's not working. My question is, how do I repair the cut motor wires? Are they able to be soldered and I'm doing something wrong? (the long story is I tried an upgraded brushless tail motor and found it was just too much weight for the heli). Appreciate any tips or advice!
Presuming you are referencing the two small gauge enameled copper conductor wires, I have no idea why you are having a hard time soldering them? They are just normal enameled solid core copper winding wire that solders up fine. Without seeing your soldering technique, the equipment you are using, the type of solder & flux, your tip working temperature (ie. hot enough to boil off the enamel coating at the solder point so the wire ends can be properly tinned first), etc; I'm in the dark as to why you can't solder splice them back together. Only other tip I could offer is an overlap solder butt joint splice on tiny solid core wire is a better joint method than a twisted splice in this tight spaced application.
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you for your response. Those are the two wires I was referring to. After I sent this I thought about the coating. I don't think I melted through it. I was also using a new mini portable iron for the first time so it might not have been hot enough (300°).
I would go 360 at least.
Good evening friend will it be ok to ask what are P-CURVE and T-CURVE in both nomal and 3d modes great work
please thank you
I cover all that in my setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
I have got my XK110, and my it flies lovely really smooth and controllable- it inspires confidence in my flying.Much better introduction to r/c heli's than the XK130 which is a bit intimidating (and breaks too easy)
I can easily fly circuits, do pirhouettes so am a competent flyer really.What will be the easiest 3d stunt I should try with my XK110, perhaps a roll? I am scared to flick it into 3d mode, just happy really flying it sedately, at least it will stay in one piece, which is priority.
Learn to fly it in 3D mode first (normal gyro stabilization - no auto level help). Get away from that auto level help as soon as possible as it's only building lots of bad habits and sets most people back. Only after you can fly circuits really well with that auto level crap turned off with just normal gyro stabilization turned on, will you be ready to get into aerobatic flying. Loop's are generally the easiest for most people to start with, but again, you must be proficient at flying circuits first with no auto level help. Also learn nose in hovering (with auto level turned off) before getting into aerobatics because many times the heli will get away from you while practicing acro and when that happens, a good chance it will be facing you (with auto level turned off). Simulator time also helps a lot once progressing into aerobatics. Make sure your setup is good too (symmetrical collective range).
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanx John for your detailed reply, I do fly with aut leveling on, just because it's a default setting, I don't really need it on.I am proficient at all you said, circuits, I can do pirhouttes.I have been flying planes, heli's for many years, (and now drone's). I just never really moved to aerobatics with a heli, I am really liking the Xk110, it's better than the XK130 which I found to be weak.
Will have to try aerobatics in the park, obviously better to crash on grass.I don't really want to crash it at all and would be happy just to keep flying sport flying as long as my heli is protected.Eventually want to be getting a 400 size heli.
Haven't got a sim, but it might be a good investment as I move into heli aerobatics.
Thanks... I just getting into Micros I plan on buying one! Thanks for the review.
Hope you enjoy it.
Hi jhon, i have the wltoys v 977 and looks very similar, do you know if is the same electronics???, i use my v977 with the provided transmiter but i also have the radiomaster tx16s and i would like to binded to the open tx...
No idea what RF protocol the wltoys V977 is using. All of XK's helicopters use Futaba's S-FHSS protocol as I mention in the review (one of their many strong points). If the V997 uses a different protocol, then you will have to identify if it's an RF protocol that is supported by the Multi-Protocol module. This information can be found on the Multi-Module.org website (one of the must bookmark sites if you are using a multiprotocol module OpenTX radio system).
Would you recommend the K130 or K110 for my first CP heli? Is the K110 perhaps a little more forgiving if crashed? I also have my eyes on K123 / K124 as a scale heli. I guess these fly a little more smoother but not ideal for 3D stunts. Thanks
The K130 is over powered and tail hold is poor. The K123 & 124 are scale and scale details are fragile. As they are scale, they are also heavier so more energy is released in a crash and therefor, more damage usually occurs. They have more rotating head mass as well due to the multi blade rotor, so tail hold and performance is not as crisp due to the increase in reactive torque off the main rotor. The tail motors have to work harder countering that increase in reactive torque and the main motors have work harder spinning more than two blades so the 123 & 124 are also not as efficient. Either are no smoother than the 110 with the right setup. As a first CP heli and if you want to learn on a micro, the 110 is just about ideal for the overall performance, robustness, and price.
John Salt thanks for the advice! I suspect the K110 flight time is longer also than K124 what would you say?
@@tommylux247 Totally depends on your setup and flying style. Given similar setup and flying style however, yes the 110 gives a little more air time between battery changes.
Hi John, I am looking forward to watching your video on XK's X6 transmitter. In that video, would you PLEASE give the exact values you recommend for a "tame", beginner-friendly setup of the K110? I guess quite a few people will follow your advice ... Thank you very much!
The X6 radio review is being uploaded right now. I cover beginner setup values in my "Setup & Tips" eBook. Not for just this heli, but any collective pitch RC helicopter. www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Hi John, thank you for the reference to your eBook, the value of which is certainly beyond doubt. But hey, I'd better not get in danger of drowning while you are the only person around. I guess you would hold me a lecture on the principles of swimming rather than throwing me a life-belt! ;) - But nevermind, I'll find out anyway.
@ Christian Lavagno If you fully understood all that's involved in CP setup, you would also understand why I can't just toss values out there to plug into a radio. CP heli setup is as much mechanical as it is electronic; these are not mechanically simplistic quad copters after all. You have 3 cyclic servos that all have slight variation to arm position & thus pushrod length; from servo to servo & from heli to heli. That affects pitch curve and pitch channel centering values.
I do however mention all the dual rate values in the video which you can plug in & experiment with.
Even if it was possible to also give you exact pitch and throttle curve numbers to plug into your radio, that 1. wouldn't teach you a thing about collective pitch RC helicopter setup (you'll always be asking for a life belt when you could have just learned to swim once); And 2. how would that be fair to the people who have invested in my eBooks & supported me & my website throughout the years? That awesome patronage over the years is after all what has made it possible to make these videos in the first place. If it wasn't for those folks, this video wouldn't even exist.
What’s the difference between the k110 and the k110s??
Hi James, the K110s is harder to see while flying than the original K110 😄 In all seriousness, not that much other than a slightly different layout and an updated FBL system. The very best thing about the original K110 - the low price of admission for a very good little micro CP heli has also been replaced with a larger price tag on the S version. Unfortunate since the K110S is the replacement for the original K110.
Just ordered one from amazon because it looks like the perfect upgrade over my blade 70s, I may upgrade to a larger model in the future like the eachine e160 and I was wondering if the k110’s transmitter would work for that heli so I could save some money and get the bnf version.
Yep, they both run on S-FHSS protocol.
John Salt thank you sir 👍
Hello! I ordered the 1 battery version of this, but I found a pack of 3.8V 450 mAh batteries. However, I see that the batteries this heli uses are 3.7V. Will I kill the heli with a 3.8V battery? I'm completely new to this, btw, if it wasn't apparent already.
Thanks for your help!
LiPo cell nominal voltage is 3.7V. Fully charged however, they are allowed to be as high as 4.2V. The 3.8V rating is likely some non-standard nominal voltage indication only. I'm sure it's still a normal LiPo cell, with a normal operating voltage range. Testing the voltage with a volt meter after the charge cycle is however the only way to be 100% sure.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you very much! I'll order some and test them.
@john salt
A need help my aileron on the transmitter show the left aileron on full left and right on full right a can srnd som picks if needed!!need help😔😔plz
I am struggling to learn turns on my M1 and M2. Would you suggest a K110 to learn on? By turns I mean easy circles and figure 8s.
A different heli won't help with coordinated turn practice - especially a smaller heli because they are even harder. Not sure if you are following a lesson plan, but Day's 7,8&9 of my flight school on my website are the 3 days that teach corradiated turn fundamentals.
So would this be a good first heli,
Flew a fixed pitch many years ago, forgot any skills I may have learned so I'm basically starting fresh.
If you are considering a micro size heli - then yes, I feel this is one of the best micro CP helicopters currently on the market to start with due to the value & good parts support. My best RC helicopter page on my website may help as well: www.rchelicopterfun.com/best-rc-helicopter.html
I broke the rotor head, the bit that attached one of the blade grips to the feathering shaft, and bent the driveshaft on mine when I crashed on its second outing... ;_;
Very nice Sir , as always. Cant wait for your k120 review. You will like it just as much, lil more robust & running on 2s. 👌😊
Well he didn't do one
I bought a Frsky XD9Plus for flying quads a couple years back. Im looking into getting into helis. Is there a module I could buy to make it compatible with the BNF version, or would I be better off picking up the RTF version?
Nice to hear someone using the correct term "quads" to accurately describe their quadcopters instead of drones. You have earned my upmost respect Eric. 👍
Anyway, there are certainly multi-protocol modules out there allowing you to use your XD9+ with any Futaba SFHSS RX (what's used in all of XK's heli). I think you would be happier going that route if you already like your 9+ radio, over the almost toy like XK X6.
With that said, the X6 radio is not half bad & it certainly works and has the main programming fuctions to allow you to properly setup a collective pitch RC helicopter.
It of course has some limitations that go along with the low cost. The biggest two is not having any graphical representation for your pitch & throttle curves along with no output menu screen to help point out programming blunders. Channel travel output programming is limited to the funny dual direction dual rate settings and there doesn't seem to be any way to program the mix percentage values for 120 degree swash mixing. Not a big deal with any of XK's helis since the 120 swash mixing is done within the FBL system.
If you decide to go the multi-moudule route and use your FrSky TX, I'm most familiar with the iRangeX external modules that plug into the JR port at the back of the radio (what I use with my FrSky Horus), but I've also seen smaller lower cost ones specifically for the XD9+. Here is one example: www.banggood.com/custlink/GKKYJqwsQY
No idea how well that one works, but it seems a popular low cost choice for micro size aircraft (limited range).
If you don't know much about multi-protocol yet, I highly recommend spending some time on the multi-module.org website - lots of great info in there that might help you decide if it's worth the hassle at this stage or just get the RTF K110 to even see if you enjoy collective pitch helicopters.
www.multi-module.org/
John Salt thanks a ton for the input! I’ll likely check out the cheap module. If so I’ll let you know how it goes after watching your setup vid. Keep up the great work!
Hi John, great review as always. I have a K110 on the way and can't wait to start flying it. I don't suppose you would be kind enough to share your Open TX setup for this model?
I have a full setup video showing my open TX setup: ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html
@@Rchelicopterfun Ok great will check it out. Thanks, John much appreciated, love your work!
Great review and flying lesson! I have an E-flite 129 which is fun and it's taught me some basics but this chopper can do a lot more. Brushless motor as well! :) Did you do the adjustments, taming it down, on the transmitter? (subscribed!)
Just clicked on the link, it says it's no longer available :(
Yep, like any collective pitch heli, they are tamed down to suit your specific flying style and skill level with radio output programming as shown in my setup & tips ebook. As for availability of the K110, the original XK K110 is still available, you just have to search for them. They have the new K110S model however, but it doesn't offer the same good value as the original IMO. amzn.to/3HxDae5
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John!
This is my experience with this heli as well. I prefer to fly it with my Horus transmitter though.
@John salt do you have any used helicopters for sale? I’m looking for my first collective pitch helicopter. I have done the eflite simulator once and was able to fly okay.
Sorry, none currently. Any time I have one however, I list it/them on my Used RC Equipment page on my website: www.rchelicopterfun.com/used-rc-equipment.html
Just sold a Trex 150X on that page as you can see. May want to bookmark that page and keep checking every now and then. I don't have anything in the pipeline as far as small CP helis but that can always change.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thank you, will do!!
Did you have tail issue?? I have problems with the tail after several flight tail more likely pushing nose to the right.
Nope, it's holding rock steady.
Great video as always John. I was just wondering (and probably know the answer) if this can be bound to a Spektrum Tx with a Satellite? I saw a video with an XK K110 and DX6 but no explanation.
No way I know of. The internal RX uses Futaba S-FHSS protocol, and there is no provision for external DSM RX connectivity like on the XK K130. Perhaps some very skilled, electronically trained individual/s has figured out how to "hack" a DSM RX into the control board, but even if that's the case, the weight increase would be rather detrimental to performance on such a small, light, 1S powered micro. It would make much more sense IMO to just get a BNF Blade Nano S2 if you want a micro CP heli of this size/performance that runs on Spektrum's DSM2/X protocol.
@@Rchelicopterfun Thanks John, I did get the Nano S2 but it's a disappointment. There are quality control issues that Horizon Hobby is giving me a hard time about and my local hobby shop (where I purchased it) wouldn’t help. Horizon uses quality-control confirmation tape to seal the boxes after they supposedly check the product over including a test flight but you wouldn’t know it from the flight behaviour, wrinkled decals and loose feathering spindle on my heli. My (used) DX9 arrived today so I’ll see if I can tweak ‘er up with the help of your eBook.
I’ve got a well-used RTF WLToys V977 (great heli) with lots of spares that fit the XK so I was hoping to utilize them without getting into another Tx. I did watch your Eachine E160 video where you explain how to bind it with Spektrum so I’ll probably go that route.
If I get it from banggood with the 4 batteries, will it be brand new.
I've seen a few reviews of people saying their items were refurbished.
Also, I'm thinking of getting this as an upgrade from my v911, should I get this as I really want to learn to fly 3d as it seems very enjoyable and basic 4ch helicopters are boring.
Very happy with mine. It has taken many very hard knocks and required minimal repairs.
I wouldn't know what people mean by refurbished. Every part on the helicopter is replaceable. If they were to refurbish a returned one I don't know how you'd be able to tell.
@@ian1352 thanks for the feedback, did you get it from banggood?
Very thorough video...thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice review with lot of information. BTW Could you please do a review on Blade Nano S2 heli by HorizonHobby
Let Horizon know your thoughts.
In the past 12 years I've had my website and now UA-cam channel, I've been contacting Horizon multiple times requesting Blade helicopters to review, they don't even have the courtesy to respond back! XK and OMP Hobby on the other hand have gone above & beyond over the past 10 months, eagerly sending me any heli I'm personally interested in to review when I request it.
All the E-Flite and Blade helicopters I've reviewed & promoted over the past 12 years on my website, were purchased on my own dime and I simply can't keep that up any longer. Especially knowing how many people worldwide have purchased Blade product over the past decade + on my enthusiastic recommendations; and Horizon doesn't even have the courtesy to get back to me when I politely ask them if they would be willing to send me a heli to review. Even Align, SAB, Bergen RC, Vario, & Roban have taken the time to get back to me and offer discount pricing at least.
@@Rchelicopterfun Very disappointing to hear that about HH as I've literally dropped $2k on aircraft, radio, chargers & batteries in the 1.5 months. I'm really interested in getting away from proprietary ecosystems and am doing my research on the Radiomaster TX now..
Hello. Does this heli has external receiver port on the board? As i would like to use my own radio system.
Nope; as I state in the video, all of KX's helis have built in RX's that use Futaba's S-FHSS protocol.
How do I adjust the negative pitch? I'm having the same problem when I panic and I throttle down its slamming into the ground.
By pitch curve programming and measuring your collective pitch angles... All covered in my Setup & Tips eBook:
www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
This basics of setup video I did may also help:
ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html
I really am thinking about getting one of these to get better flying my bigger birds ,does the tail hold when doing flips and rolls ? And how bad is crash damage ?
Tail holds well (as was shown in the video). Low weight & power = low energy release & little crash damage (over soft ground of course) 🙂
John Salt thanks for the reply ! I’m practicing with some old McPx helis I have but when I go to flip the tail blows out then the crash breaks the tail boom I fly 450 size helis but no 3D with them yet just sport thanks again for the reply!!!
I'm not going to search comments but I would recommend that when you say that you've tamed down the remote that you'd let us ignorant beginners know how to do that. Thanks.
I do show how to - many times and for many years. I have an eBook on it as I stated in the video: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
So many beginners have successfully tamed their collective pitch helicopters down for learning on by following the time proven steps I outline in that eBook which are the same procedures I use when instructing one on one.
In addition to that, I have a full RC heli flight school section on my website that goes over every day's lesson with both video and written instruction: www.rchelicopterfun.com/how-to-fly-rc-helicopters.html
It has taught thousands of beginners world wide how to successfully learn to fly collective pitch helicopters.
John, thanks for the video. Any thoughts on how to get this working with a Spektrum Dx8 ?
You can't. All of XK's micros use Futaba's SHFSS protocol - no way to make them work with DSM2/X.
What Settings on the controller ( I mean like pitch and curve etc)
For a beginner trying to learn 3D easily!
I want like a slow and Steady while doing 3D!
Thanks!
www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
ua-cam.com/video/O1L0wxzoqOU/v-deo.html
Plus months of practice both on a flight simulator & on your collective pitch helicopters.
How do you reduce the negative so it doesn't shoot to the ground?
By altering your pitch curve.
Thanks John...
Are you in 3d on your flight on the pool table?
Yes - I never have self level turned on. It sets most people back. A tame setup is a much better learning approach .
Never in my life have I seen a "linear servo" in a heli... Please link...
Wltoys v922 hisky hcp100 and lots of others
whats the difference between the "BNF" and "RTF"?--I see a difference in the pricing -also does this item ship from china?
RTF includes the X6 radio. BNF is a package without a radio, so if you already have one, you don’t have to pay another 50$
BNF is short for "Bind And Fly", meaning you'll already need a transmitter to bind to the helicopter. RTF is short for "Ready to Fly", meaning it has everything you need to fly the helicopter included in the box (transmitter and batteries). RTF can be great when you're first starting out, with the caveat that the bundled transmitters are usually cheap and of lower quality/functionality. Eventually you'll end up buying a nicer "programmable" transmitter that can be used (or "bound") to any helicopter.
John Salt's website has tons of _invaluable_ information. Highly recommended! See the link in the video description above. And if you're like me, you'll find him responsible for your hopeless addition to helicopters :-) 🤩🚁
Do you have the Gyro turned off?
No, you can't turn the gyros off. Like most FBL systems with auto-level stabilization mode, you can only turn the accelerometers off to disable auto-level and thus put the heli into normal gyro mode (what this heli is in). This video may help clear up the these two modes of stabilization better: ua-cam.com/video/LouYitd7jak/v-deo.htmlsi=e2gNci9alrl_VLQz
recommended throttle curve and pitch curve?
Totally depends on your flying style and how you want it setup. As I say in the video, I cover all that in the setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Can you recall what your pitch and throttle curves were?
I cover them in detail my setup & tips ebook: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-helicopter-tips.html
Thanks - was just about to order, but not sure which one is appropriate here. As this has no flybar, but is a beginner CP. Which should I get?
@@Rchelicopterfun
I have ordered :) @@Rchelicopterfun quick question. I have too much pitch at the bottom, and too little at the top. Does that mean I need to raise or lower the swashplate? Thanks in advance.
can I ship my heli to you and pay you to set it up? It is driving me crazy. I just cannot get the swashplate level no matter what I try. I am starting to think I need an old priest and a young priest as it may be cursed.
Mines also pretty nice, glad to have it next to my M2. Maybe you know where the strange noise of my M2 when slowing down on my channel is coming from? It hears like there’s sth rubbing,but nothing’s touching the motor and I lubricated everything like bearing but it doesn’t disappear. Maybe you know why?
Nothing I can think of. I would have to hear the exact noise in person to find it.
I watched your video. All I can hear when you are spooling up with the head on are the carbon landing skids vibrating against the surface (ground resonance). Very normal if that's the source of the noise. If you spool up on a soft surface like a carpet or mat does is still happen? Please contact me through my website if you wish to discuss further.
John Salt I contacted you via the contact feed. The noise occur always, whether it is on the ground or I‘m holding it.
Sir can i used this set in e160
Sorry - I don't understand what "this set" is referencing? If you mean the XK X6 radio/transmitter that comes with the RTF K110; then yes, the X6 radio can be used with the e160 as well (both using Futaba S-FHSS protocol).
How long it fly? 😊Oh and you make a great Job! Pls answer
If you watched the video in its entirety, I go over flight times based on flying style in the conclusion.
Im German and i cant speak good english and yeah
Could a 1s 520mah lipo be used on the xk k110?
Totally depends on the size. As I show in the video, battery size is specific.
Great video. Can you learn on this w/o learning on a simulator 1st?
You can learn to fly with any RC helicopter without a simulator, including the K110. That is after all how we all used to learn before personal computers were powerful enough to emulate RC heli flight physics and environments. A simulator is however a great teaching tool when used correctly, especially once you've mastered the tail in hover. This page on my site covers this topic in much more detail: www.rchelicopterfun.com/rc-flight-simulator.html
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you so much! I recently purchased the nano s2. Is it similar to the k110?
@@brettmccafferty7510 The Nano S2 has more in common with the XK K100 as both use a brushed coreless main motor over the brushless main motor used in the K110. The biggest difference with all of XK's micro's is the use of rotary servos instead of linear like on the Nano, that and the supported RF protocol (Futaba S-FHSS vs. Spektrum DSM2/X).
@@Rchelicopterfun thank you. As long as I can learn to fly on something inexpensive I will be happy. I really want to work my way up to flying something like the trex700.
I'm not able to buy this in india. Can someone help in buying this? please..please..
Do you have access to Aliexpress?
Great video!👍
Glad you liked it