you all probably dont give a damn but does someone know a way to log back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Walter Kyree thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
I've had the same issue. But, I solved great deal of it by keeping a constant flow of compressed air directed at the cutter. Get those chips out of there as they get ground between the cutter and the previously cut surface. The second thing I did was leave a fairly large finishing allowance; I leave about .010" and then make a final 2-3 passes to clean it up. Finally, I switched to .125" cutters. I'd prefer to use .250" but they are too big for my work. I think the .125" flex too much so I get them as far up into the collet as is practical.
I work at SwiftCarb and we started grinding our aluminum series (non roughing) mills with a wheel that basically polishes the part. On the tool itself the finish is almost black from being so smooth. We've gotten results back where the part left a mirror finish. Idk if you might want to check it out. I haven't seen an aluminum endmill yet with the polish we put on it. Might wanna check us out 🤷♂️
I don't know if you know that but your spindle is rotating right and your paths should go clockwise as well, not anticlockwise wise. Chips are different and surface finish is better! :)
inderdaad, meelopend frezen zal zeker het nodige veranderen. ik doe op mijn werk niet anders. tenzij ik snel een contour gespiegeld, nog eens moet frezen elders in het werkstuk.
@@janwiersma1449 Ja, snap ook niet waarom hij tegenloops freest, dat brengt meer vibratie met zich mee en dat kan deze machine niet hebben. Ook zou dynamic milling beter zijn, korte snelle bewegingen met een ruwfreesje en 1 contour voor de finish.
Your videos are really interesting and helful to me. I happen to have the same machine as you, I got it about 3 weeks ago and I am getting acquainted with it. Thanks a lot!
Is your spindle running clockwise? I’m trying to figure out if you’re actually running the tool in the wrong direction or not? If it is clockwise, then it’s for sure traveling the wrong way. Your finish would greatly improve if you were to change that. Just a thought, not trying to offend anyone here, merely observing.
try to always use a "climb" cut. it is better for surface finish, tool life and heat dissapation. then with aluminum its important to blow away the chip while cutting otherwise you will get smudges on your part. and making the machine more rigid would also help alot
It`s not really a comparison - you take expensive thicker 1 flute end mill and compare it with thinner 2 flute end mill ( and longer stick out compare to diameter ) . Most likely you have rigidity problem and not with a flute . For ALU 1 flute end mill is a way to go in case of hobby high rpm routers with low rigidity. For proper test need to compare apples to apples at lest . I think Darton end mill is better anyway - but this end mill it`s not for hobby machinist which can break it in a seconds. For learning purpose there are plenty cheap end mill`s which can give you great result . Last - about milling approach to full diameter. It`s not good idea as you pay for flute length , but will cutting only on the bottom of the flute . In this case you will wear the bottom much faster and not use your investments. Always better go deeper with less step over ( but not less then minimum cheap load ) - there are few exceptions ,but it`s mostly with special end mills .
Super inspiring to see see great work out of that machine. Im going to ge a datron. I have silicon carbide 4 flute endmill. I need that chamfer tool! Please share you settings on that 6061 for fusion!
Have you played with using adaptive clearing in Fusion 360? In my experience so far, this method works the best for doing metal on these type of machines. Vastly better than pocketing or profiling in terms of chatter and vibration.
What machine is this ? Did you upgrade it at all or is it stock? I’m looking for a cnc under 800 dollars that can cut aluminum well enough for usable parts for knife handles that need somewhat tight tolerances
Really nice video ! I also have a 6040, but I would stick with adaptive toolpath. You can use adaptive with multiple cutting depths. The rigidity isthe weak point for this hobby cnc. The spindle could do much better with a more rigid body. How satisfied are you with the HBM brand? I also have some tools from HBM
Thanks! The problem with adaptive strategy and the 6040 stock controller is that when you make the stepover too small that you overload the controller with g code and the machine slows down. Like you correctly mentioned it is possible to use multiple depths with but the material removal rate drops significantly when you do so. I’m going to do some testing about this subject in the future but i’m pretty sure that on the 6040 router the 2D pocket can outperform the adaptive strategy at material removal rate. HBM has a good price quality ratio and I like their products. But you get what you pay for and most of the products are hobby grade and not made for professional use.
@@MBcreates you can try the smoothing feature, that will ease the gcode a little. I am really satisfied with the adaptive, it certainly helps to not brake as many emdmills. Down side is that it takes a lot of time, like you said too.
I dont have any experience with a CNC and was thinking were your not removing alot of stock or cutting something out like the wheel at the end would it not have been better to not step down in cuts and engage entire flute I would think you would need to take lighter cuts but still remove more mass because your not just using the first 1mm of the flute?
excellent video, what operating system are you using, what computer is it, do you think you can make a video explaining the connection to the system step by step, even if you see it easily in forums, there are many people who are struggling a lot in this team due to this problem.
Hi there, I've 3 flutes Flat end mill tool for aluminium. But that material is realy soft and I cannot handle it. Should I use 1 flute or 2 flutes for soft aluminium ? Thanks for answering.
are these somewhat comparable to a the bantam cnc or carbide 3d nomad3 or makerdream evo pro ??? id love to get into machining and properly learn g-code, this machine will probably be replaced in 4-5 years (im a student and cant afford a tormach pcnc 440 or something similar right now) when i work full time and id like to ask if is smarter to buy the 6040 (since it will be replaced anyways (no production in mind) or splurge on the nomad or makerdream 🤷♂️
Nice try. Consider adaptive clearing with the deepest cut you can make and very small radial engagement. You will likely get a better part faster, and you will use all the length of that expensive tool rather than just the tip.
You'd be better off investing in a cheap mist coolant system than wasting money on expensive Datron end mills if improving the surface finish is the goal. You'd also be better off using cheap 3 flute ZRN coated carbide end mills off ebay for aluminum with your machine. Datron use single flute end mills because their machines have micron accuracy and use 40,000 rpm or 60,000 rpm spindles.
Try to reverse the path of your insert, look for datron vids on yt, you will see what i mean. And never mark with your caliber.. it hurts seeing, my old master punished me, first time i did this.
Great like always. I can see you order your aluminum from Aluminiumopmaat.nl what grade do you order? My cnc manufacturer specifies 6061. Do they have that? Greetz grom Belgium :)
I don't think that would bring much benefit - 6061 and 6083 (in reasonable tempers) are still MgSi based alloys, just like 6060, and work best with a more rigid machine, with flood cooling and higher material removal rates. ... For something actually designed for machining, try the 2007 alloy (with Pb), it never curls up like 6061/6083 (in T6 and similar) and always breaks off cleanly in regular chips. I never actually clogged up an endmill with it, no coolant needed. (There are more exotic ones, but 2007 is fairly common.) edit: I just read the description - yup, 2011 is also a good choice.
- Datron 5mm end mill (0068085E)
- Datron 4mm end mill (0068803E)
Affiliate links to budget chinese tools:
Tool 1: ⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Tool 2: 4 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 3: 5 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 4: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2N1KYb2
Tool 5: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2SxnT6g
Tool 6: 6 mm 2 flute chamfer: bit.ly/2tmihfX
The links to the end mills don’t work
you all probably dont give a damn but does someone know a way to log back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb forgot the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Malachi Nikolai instablaster :)
@Walter Kyree thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Walter Kyree It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you saved my account!
I've had the same issue. But, I solved great deal of it by keeping a constant flow of compressed air directed at the cutter. Get those chips out of there as they get ground between the cutter and the previously cut surface. The second thing I did was leave a fairly large finishing allowance; I leave about .010" and then make a final 2-3 passes to clean it up. Finally, I switched to .125" cutters. I'd prefer to use .250" but they are too big for my work. I think the .125" flex too much so I get them as far up into the collet as is practical.
I work at SwiftCarb and we started grinding our aluminum series (non roughing) mills with a wheel that basically polishes the part. On the tool itself the finish is almost black from being so smooth.
We've gotten results back where the part left a mirror finish. Idk if you might want to check it out. I haven't seen an aluminum endmill yet with the polish we put on it.
Might wanna check us out 🤷♂️
You are making great progress with your machine. Very impressive. Thank you for the video.
I don't know if you know that but your spindle is rotating right and your paths should go clockwise as well, not anticlockwise wise. Chips are different and surface finish is better! :)
For best finish result improve your cnc rigidity and try climb milling!!
inderdaad, meelopend frezen zal zeker het nodige veranderen. ik doe op mijn werk niet anders. tenzij ik snel een contour gespiegeld, nog eens moet frezen elders in het werkstuk.
@@janwiersma1449 Ja, snap ook niet waarom hij tegenloops freest, dat brengt meer vibratie met zich mee en dat kan deze machine niet hebben. Ook zou dynamic milling beter zijn, korte snelle bewegingen met een ruwfreesje en 1 contour voor de finish.
Great video! Really demonstrates how we dont need a professional HAAS machine for 50grand just to cut some aluminum
Thanks!
Your videos are really interesting and helful to me. I happen to have the same machine as you, I got it about 3 weeks ago and I am getting acquainted with it. Thanks a lot!
I am looking to buy this machine as well, would you reccomend it after a year of use?
Nice job man!!! Can I ask you? Cutting speeds, RPM, down and over steps? Greeting from Czech :)
Is your spindle running clockwise? I’m trying to figure out if you’re actually running the tool in the wrong direction or not? If it is clockwise, then it’s for sure traveling the wrong way. Your finish would greatly improve if you were to change that. Just a thought, not trying to offend anyone here, merely observing.
You should try to do climb milling instead of cone milling.. That will improve your surface even more
please climb mill. the finishes would be much better. leave the conventional milling for the steel
try to always use a "climb" cut. it is better for surface finish, tool life and heat dissapation. then with aluminum its important to blow away the chip while cutting otherwise you will get smudges on your part. and making the machine more rigid would also help alot
nice video, datron makes one of the best 1 flutes ever up to 60.000 rpm ^^
DUDE! AWESOME! I have the 3040. Super inspiring to see this. Would love to see some super thick stock be cut!
Thanks Andrew! Can you be a little more specific about the thick stock? I assume you have a workpiece in mind?
Thanks for share greetings from Mexico
If you decrease the acceleration settings on the steppers it won't be that jerky on the splines.
Using the smoothing function in fusion solved the problem for me :)
It`s not really a comparison - you take expensive thicker 1 flute end mill and compare it with thinner 2 flute end mill ( and longer stick out compare to diameter ) . Most likely you have rigidity problem and not with a flute .
For ALU 1 flute end mill is a way to go in case of hobby high rpm routers with low rigidity.
For proper test need to compare apples to apples at lest . I think Darton end mill is better anyway - but this end mill it`s not for hobby machinist which can break it in a seconds. For learning purpose there are plenty cheap end mill`s which can give you great result .
Last - about milling approach to full diameter. It`s not good idea as you pay for flute length , but will cutting only on the bottom of the flute . In this case you will wear the bottom much faster and not use your investments. Always better go deeper with less step over ( but not less then minimum cheap load ) - there are few exceptions ,but it`s mostly with special end mills .
Super inspiring to see see great work out of that machine. Im going to ge a datron. I have silicon carbide 4 flute endmill. I need that chamfer tool!
Please share you settings on that 6061 for fusion!
where in the video did you saw 6061?
Let the lathe stop before you put your fingers in. Also don't have loose clothes or strings in clothes that can catch in.
Supernice to see a 6040 video from you man! :)
Hope you enjoyed it!
Have you played with using adaptive clearing in Fusion 360? In my experience so far, this method works the best for doing metal on these type of machines. Vastly better than pocketing or profiling in terms of chatter and vibration.
Buenas tardes ese CNC lo fabrica la empresa DATRON EN ALEMANIA? en Sur América tendrán sucursales gracias desde VENEZUELA
What machine is this ? Did you upgrade it at all or is it stock? I’m looking for a cnc under 800 dollars that can cut aluminum well enough for usable parts for knife handles that need somewhat tight tolerances
Do you tried to mill steel with this machine? Maybe you can make video?)
Are you still using this machine?
i realize this is old, but you should be climb milling! surface finish and tool life will be much bettter.
Really nice video ! I also have a 6040, but I would stick with adaptive toolpath. You can use adaptive with multiple cutting depths. The rigidity isthe weak point for this hobby cnc. The spindle could do much better with a more rigid body.
How satisfied are you with the HBM brand? I also have some tools from HBM
Thanks! The problem with adaptive strategy and the 6040 stock controller is that when you make the stepover too small that you overload the controller with g code and the machine slows down. Like you correctly mentioned it is possible to use multiple depths with but the material removal rate drops significantly when you do so. I’m going to do some testing about this subject in the future but i’m pretty sure that on the 6040 router the 2D pocket can outperform the adaptive strategy at material removal rate.
HBM has a good price quality ratio and I like their products. But you get what you pay for and most of the products are hobby grade and not made for professional use.
@@MBcreates you can try the smoothing feature, that will ease the gcode a little.
I am really satisfied with the adaptive, it certainly helps to not brake as many emdmills. Down side is that it takes a lot of time, like you said too.
I dont have any experience with a CNC and was thinking were your not removing alot of stock or cutting something out like the wheel at the end would it not have been better to not step down in cuts and engage entire flute I would think you would need to take lighter cuts but still remove more mass because your not just using the first 1mm of the flute?
Hello
Did you connect the controller to a laptop with a 25 plug USB?
excellent video, what operating system are you using, what computer is it, do you think you can make a video explaining the connection to the system step by step, even if you see it easily in forums, there are many people who are struggling a lot in this team due to this problem.
Thanks! Maybe some time in the future.
ok, where to buy the datron cutters?
Hi there, I've 3 flutes Flat end mill tool for aluminium.
But that material is realy soft and I cannot handle it.
Should I use 1 flute or 2 flutes for soft aluminium ?
Thanks for answering.
what kind of 6040 machine, what kind of motor do you have 1.5kw or 2.2kw?
are these somewhat comparable to a the bantam cnc or carbide 3d nomad3 or makerdream evo pro ???
id love to get into machining and properly learn g-code, this machine will probably be replaced in 4-5 years (im a student and cant afford a tormach pcnc 440 or something similar right now) when i work full time and id like to ask if is smarter to buy the 6040 (since it will be replaced anyways (no production in mind) or splurge on the nomad or makerdream 🤷♂️
Nice try. Consider adaptive clearing with the deepest cut you can make and very small radial engagement. You will likely get a better part faster, and you will use all the length of that expensive tool rather than just the tip.
Mate!! Use CLIMB milling! Better surface finish, better tool life no chatter!! Basics
What speed is your spinel at? From my experience with datrons you going to need to be in the 20k rpm 🥺
Hi, what kind of motor do you have 1.5kw or 2.2kw?
You'd be better off investing in a cheap mist coolant system than wasting money on expensive Datron end mills if improving the surface finish is the goal.
You'd also be better off using cheap 3 flute ZRN coated carbide end mills off ebay for aluminum with your machine.
Datron use single flute end mills because their machines have micron accuracy and use 40,000 rpm or 60,000 rpm spindles.
how do u probe on the cnc 6040 with the controller box that comes with it
Do you have a direk link for downloading fusion 360 offline installer ?
Try to reverse the path of your insert, look for datron vids on yt, you will see what i mean. And never mark with your caliber.. it hurts seeing, my old master punished me, first time i did this.
Less plunge 😉
Great like always. I can see you order your aluminum from Aluminiumopmaat.nl what grade do you order? My cnc manufacturer specifies 6061. Do they have that? Greetz grom Belgium :)
6060 and 2011 Both mill very well
Do you have a link for that edge finder? Thanks!
littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1961&category=
I want this machine pls give me contact
Hoeveel watt (kw) is de spindel en wat zou het minimale zijn voor alu
1.5kw
Can you share me address to buy this cnc 6040 router. Many Thanksssss
ebay.uk
Two paralleled ensures you are flat
IMHO the rigidity is the big problem.
6060-T66 ? You should give up on that stuff. Try 6061 or 6083.
I will give it a try ;)
I don't think that would bring much benefit - 6061 and 6083 (in reasonable tempers) are still MgSi based alloys, just like 6060, and work best with a more rigid machine, with flood cooling and higher material removal rates. ... For something actually designed for machining, try the 2007 alloy (with Pb), it never curls up like 6061/6083 (in T6 and similar) and always breaks off cleanly in regular chips. I never actually clogged up an endmill with it, no coolant needed. (There are more exotic ones, but 2007 is fairly common.)
edit: I just read the description - yup, 2011 is also a good choice.
Never plunge a cutter, it won't last 5 minutes. Learn how to ramp correctly.