CNC 6040 Router Machine Bed Upgrade
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- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- In this video I show you the process of upgrading my CNC 6040 Router with a new machine bed. Take a look at www.mbcreates.com for extra info, a material list and the fusion 360 files.
Six low budget end mills for aluminium:
Tool 1: ⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Tool 2: 4 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 3: 5 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 4: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2N1KYb2
Tool 5: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2SxnT6g
Tool 6: 6 mm 2 flute chamfer: bit.ly/2tmihfX
It’s almost a year since I got my CNC 6040 Router and I’m still happy with my machine. But since I’m using my CNC 6040 Router more and more for milling Aluminum it started to reach the limits of its capabilities. After making a list of upgrades I would like to do, the easiest upgrade that would improve the machine the most was the machine bed.
After doing some research I decided to upgrade my CNC 6040 Router with a heavy steel plate. The 45 kg plate would eliminate problems with bending and vibrations that the old bed had. Leveling the steel plate with the spindle was in my opinion a little bit to ambitieus for this machine. Instead I designed a waste board out of 18mm multiplex with M6 hex screw insert that is bolted down on the steel plate. This board is easy to level and by using the M6 hex screw inserts I can use the clamps that originally come with the CNC 6040 Router.
When the new machine bed was finally finished it was time to see if the upgrade was worth its money. I did a test with a 4 mm end mill taking a 6 mm deep cut in 6060 Aluminium. The upgrade had made a huge improvement in rigidity and all the vibrations where gone, making the CNC 6040 Router a much better and quieter machine. The new workholding with the hex screw inserts is also a big improvement.
blogpost: goo.gl/ud4Lko
hex screw inserts: goo.gl/LwAC4w
⅛ inch double flute end mill: goo.gl/pcvEKh
Router bit set: goo.gl/4tcc1r
Engraving Bits: goo.gl/SnBsYt
Sandpaper: goo.gl/La91bg
Allen bolt set: goo.gl/J6iM9C
Tap set: goo.gl/YqfqqP
Music credits:
first song:
Me 2 (Feat. Julian Avila) by LAKEY INSPIRED / lakeyinspired
Creative Commons - Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported - CC BY-SA 3.0
creativecommons....
second song:
Fresh by Ikson / ikson
third song:
Jazzaddict's Intro by Cosimo Fogg (201) / cosimo-fogg
Creative Commons - Attribution 3.0 Unported- CC BY 3.0
creativecommons....
fourth song:
Cold Funk - Funkorama by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com....
Artist: incompetech.com/
Music promoted by Audio Library • Cold Funk - Kevin MacL...
Six beginner/low budget end mills for aluminium:
Test video with Feeds and Speeds: ua-cam.com/video/M-1dYJWh3rw/v-deo.html
Affiliate links:
Tool 1: ⅛ inch 2 flute: bit.ly/2N2DyEE
Tool 2: 4 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 3: 5 mm 3 flute: bit.ly/2N2DPXZ
Tool 4: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2N1KYb2
Tool 5: 4 mm 2 flute: bit.ly/2SxnT6g
Tool 6: 6 mm 2 flute chamfer: bit.ly/2tmihfX
Thank you, you motivated me to build my own full-steel machine and ditch the idea of buying such flimsy things.
Hi.
I am a tool engineer for Cnc.. just 25 years ago... I have a sales company as well. but I do not want to sell You any.., just I take some suggestion.
In case of Aluminium You must use tools without coating. For better surface You must devide the job, for roughing and finishing.
Some tips:
- must use some emulsion for better cut results.
- Some of Iso K (cast iron) material tools what is bright also works in Aluminium. (better tool life, because that tools has more wear resistant)
- The cutting speed is very important to avoid chattering. In case of HSS VC must 300 m/min or over.
- The feedrate is also better if You try to use a larger what Your machine can. In this case the tool is bending a bit the machine, but the force is cause more stability.
- for rougher try cordell geometry
- if You can use air to remove the chips, because the cips remachining cause shorter tool life.
Regards
Laszlo
If you have problems with the threaded inserts coming out, try putting them on the bottom side of your plywood. Basically flipping the setup you have now. They'll be more resistant to pulling out of their holes.
I know it would be a fair bit more work involved but if you drill and tap the clamping holes into the steel plate itself, when it comes time to replace the spoil board all you need to do is drill clearance holes through the new spoil board. To make this even easier you could make small counterbores on the steel plate at each clamping hole to allow you to create a program that cuts the clearance holes in the new spoil board.
Next time use .750 Aluminum "Tooling Plate" instead, it is already flat. Shim it to the machine on the bottom side for leveling with an indicator. Mill a grid pattern of clamp holes, more the better, and tap by hand using a block with a hole the same size as the tap for a guide to keep tap perpedicular to the table. You can use the tapped holes to pin parts square to the axis. Now use backup plate under every job to protect your table. Also, use screws in the table as clamp supports, not screws in the clamps. Keep the tool short as possible extending from the collet for better rigidity and longer tool life. Protect the ball screw under the table from coolant. Machinist 40 yrs.
he also tapped the mounting holes for the steel table, he should have left them ad clearance holes as he now has 2 threads that could be mismatched
❤
Agreed. Because if you get fab steel like I did, it's a royal pain in the butt to drill and tap by hand.
A wonderful video, thank you so much for your time in making such a fine base.
It is something I would like to do, in fact I stopped this video half way through, to telephone
my great friend who has a steel stock yard, to put in an order for, the same size base.
It will not be anywhere as good as your base, but will be good for this old man, to try.
many thanks to you, Colin.UK.
I'm redoing my bed this way . Hope to finish it by the weekend. Thanks
Nice job and well done. You could consider to upgrade your spoiler board with some holes to use with dowel pins. In that way you can re-position your work piece in a bit more accurate. Anyway thank you for sharing your video and love to see more
I have the same cnc. I changed also to an aluminum plate and cleaned it with a 2mm bit.
I use the cnc to mill aluminum parts. I use 2 transparent adhesive tape with hard glue to fix parts.
That way i can word the whole part.
I love watching videos from other people who are perfectionist. The details and care you put into this project were impressive. It just goes to show that sometimes the cheap stuff that comes from China can be turned into some decent equipment. Personally I don't understand why they cheap out on a majority of the stuff they export. They clearly have the ability to produce quality products, Americans are willing to to pay to get quality, which is why made in america is so important to many people . But yet so many of these manufacturers in China feel the only way they can make a dollar (or Yen is it? IDK) is by producing stuff that barely works, and never like its advertised so they can charge next to nothing. When how much work would it be to adjust their molds slightly so that every it they produce will fit and work from then on out. That minor amount of labor spread out over millions of parts is insignificant yet is the difference between the product matching the picture on the box and performing as it should. I don't care who you are after you bought some China knock off and got it home and tried to use it, only to find out it doesn't perform as it should you would have been willing to pay 10-20% more at the time of purchase if you were informed what you were about to get into, and that price increase was the difference between the product functioning as intended compared to the cheap knock off designed to only look the part, not really live up to your expectation, but hey at least it was cheap. This guy bought this machine for around $1400 I believe, depending on the seller on eBay. They spent another $200 plus I would estimate a day planning and designing his upgrade, and another majority of a day implementing it. Where lets sa as a designer / manufacturer his times worth at least $50 per hour. Making that upgrade run another $600-$1000 time and materials, just to get that machine to function as it should. Where the manufacturer could have implemented something similar, for a fraction of the cost and included it into the machine and developed a reputation of a decent machine, instead of one "well at least it's cheap". I am pretty sure the original bed could have been used just by creating joints under the aluminum plate allowing it to be fasted more often with pan head screws that sat flush and didn't interfere with the work mounts. Rather than the way they left the aluminum plate free spanning so it flexed like it did. With steel supports the manufacturer could have added for pennies, I bet the machine would have functioned well enough this guy would have continued using the machine as it came rather than making this kind of investment to reengineer the whole mounting plate. Also, I would bet when it comes to the machine not being true, where you got those machined edges when using larger diameter mills. You are clearly skilled enough to make a new piece that mounts the head to the frame that would allow you to adjust it from time to time, at true the cutting mill to the mounting surface, if not at least just shim the new metal plate once and be done with it. If it is too hard to move the cutting head, then move the mounting plate to match the trim f the cutting head, at least that way the would both be out of line, but true where the mill meets the cutting surface. So that way the machine performs at near perfection like you clearly would like it too. Great video, I look forward to checking out some other projects you have going.
You are not wrong but a lot of people get good use out of these machines at the price point they sell at. Do you have any idea how many hours of added labor this modification take. Then there is the shipping cost. There are plenty of machines that incorporate this quality but they cost proportionately more if that's what you want.
1. A good alternative to steel plate is a piece of granite or quartz. Check out a dumpster at your local counter top shops, they usually have off-cuts that they throw away. Some will cut an off-cut to size for a small fee. You can use $15 diamond-tipped drill bit for drilling into ceramic tiles to make holes in the granite plate to mount it to your router (just keep it wet).
2. I very much doubt you can deflect such thick plate that much by pushing on it with your hand. I am pretty certain the aluminium frame of your router is flexing. You would need to beef up the frame to eliminate that.
If you try the same "deflection test" with the plate on solid surface with indicator mounted to the same surface you will not be able to repeat the same result.
Thanks for your comment :)
1.That’s a good one. Never thought of that.
2. Your comment made me curious, when I have some more steel laying around I’m going to repeat the test on a solid base. I think your partly right, the aluminium frame is also bending. But I assume that most of the bending is the steel plate. I’m pushing with both hands until my feet come of the floor, that’s +- 75 KG. I’ve seen steel plates from the same thickness bend under their own weight when placed in a angle upright against a wall.
MBcreates try “plate deflection calculator “ at www.engineersedge.com/calculators/flat-plate-deflection.htm and then compare with empirical data.
Perfect!
I received my 6040 and building my own controller box but I don't know what the current rating of the stepper motors. Your videos are very good and a lot of help. thank you
If you run a couple of pieces of angle iron along the bottom of that plate inboard a bit from the edges, and just bolt it up from the bottom, it will get rid of any of the rest of the slop in the machine.
Thanks for this video.... I'm debating getting a 2.2kw spindle but, because I don't like my MDF table bed, I was going to hold off until I got a more solid bed. I am much more used to $100,000 CNC machines that have massive cast iron structure and I get frustrated with these light weight machines that flex and move. I now think I will spend the time to build a bed such as yours.
Nice video, some real nuggets there, have you tried ‘’ Rhino Board” ? The ply you are using is very reactive to moisture, a good quality water resistant board would move much less than Marine Ply or Face Ply. We soak ours every day in the Workshop and it’s doesn’t react with anything. We use harsh solvent based sealers and highly acid water waste every day and would recommend.Thanks for the upload .
Great video, thank you! Really glad to see you doing upgrades to the 6040 and seeing results.
thanks for your comment. I'm glad you liked it!
I use a 0.75 in. 6061 aluminum plate seems to work great.
Thank you for your effort and sharing. Very smart upgrade and approach.
Invest in some down cut bits they are awesome for plywood.
Any suggestions? link?
@@MBcreates www.wealdentool.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Down_Cut_2_Flute_228.html
www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+power-tool-accessories-router-bits-spiral-cut-tct-router-bit-down-cut-spiral-d=1-4-h=3-4-s=1-4-rutlands+tr139
routercutter.co.uk/carbide-spirals-metric-shank-router-bits
routercutter.co.uk/carbide-spirals-imperial-shank-router-bits
I use Prototrak machines at work (SMX's) - most of our cutters I get here www.cutwel.co.uk/milling-tools/milling-cutters
Thats a very nice machine..good value....only about 1000$ with 4 axis on ebay...
Nice work... I did similar to mine several years ago.. but used 19mm MDF as the base piece, then 12mm MDF as the top piece. Also after initial skimming, used west sytems expoxy to soak into the MDF and then did a final skim for surface flatness. This made it much more oil/water proof.. I too used the 6mm inserts...
Thinking of rebuilding my machine to give a larger work area, using the new C section extrusion..
I've been thinking about painting my spoil board. Because I really don't go cutting into it all that much. I actually tend to put another spoil board on top of it if I'm really planning on doing a through cut.
Really cool! Do you think the wood will swell without sealant enough to cause issues? Really good idea, none the less. If you damage the wood or you decide to switch, it will still be cheap.
Impressive!
Maybe you’ve done this already in one of your other videos but would be nice to see a tram adjustment upgrade for the 6040.
i upgraded my table also... i keep a vice mounted to the table , makes life easier for smaller parts.. nice work
That's a great idea.
My 6040 hasn't arrived yet.
I might fill the extrusion with steel rod and grout or something unit I can buy steel
Try epoxy, iron and aggregates mix.
@@vrva3138 even better!👍
Hello there. Tks for taking the time to make theses videos; they have been super helpful to me and to put my 6040 running :] You could make a video on how to connect (wiring) the limit switches. There are some videos showing ideas on how to implement them (physically) but none with the methodical approach you take and showing how to connect and configure them. Cheers o/
Nice job ,but try to flip the clamp bolt upside down for not to damge the spoil board woow by having a wide bace aria pushing on wood. Hoping
you the best
As you installed the steel plate, you tested for flatness and mentioned the tolerance you were looking for, but did not discuss the alternative.
What would you do if the steel plate was warped beyond your tolerances?
Use a washer under the wing nut.
Use a push on plastic button on the clamp screw so not to ruin the aluminium plate when tightening.
very nice if u have the money and time...another option that is very economical and less invloved would be to just fabricate 1 or 2 additional supports on the frame for the bed to mount to to eliminate a lot of the flex.....the alum extrudion is not the main issue ..the issue is no support underneath.
I LIKE THE ACCENT OF THIS GUY.
The best quality of miniature machine tools are customized for DIY woodworking, design &model making in all school, Maker space etc. zrtech.en.alibaba.com/
Really useful as a way forward for my 6040....
On your clamps the bolt farther from the work piece should have the hex on the plate or up side down and washers on your wing nuts would not go a miss.
Its an awesome upgrade, thanks for sharing. So you have had it and used it for a month or two now. If you had to do it again, would there be anything you would do differently? Thicker or thinner metal or plywood?
While Im at the metal shop, I may as well buy a 10 or 15mm backing plate for the gantry. As I think linear rails (SBR20) for the X and Z axis would significantly drop the vibration as well.
I also want to upgrade the unsupported rail. I’m thinking of using aluminium for this part instead of steel. A steel backplate will soon weigh 10-15 kg and I want to keep the gauntry as light as possible.
Really nice, i took inspiration from you and did the same upgrade than you concernant the metal plate. It is so heavy ! Just a question what kind of drill do you use please, because my plate is so hard to drill that i just use two screw for the moment . Thanks again for all the support you bring to me
Brilliant video, absolutely enjoyed
Awesome! Really like what your doing. You are really good with a hand drill. Wow.
Tip for anyone doing this. Make sure you use aluminium or bright steel. The 15mm fab steel is a pain to drill and tap.
Nice! I m looking to get the same machine and I ll definitely be following your improvement guide.
Awesome video! Can't believe the difference. Nice work
Woo! that's awesome
I have the same router, I would like to do everything the same except use an hdpe board on top, which would be more climate stable
I was trying to figure out how I was going to surface the steel haha, hadn't occurred to me to stack a more millable material on top
Consider Acetal. Much easier to work with.
I own a similar machine with the same problems. Definitely going to do the bed upgrade. How have you dealt with the rigidity of the gantry? Mine can flex a lot. If the plunge rate is even a little quick, it is not good.
switch the screwhead to the wood side to have a better wood lifetime. lower damage on the wood plade
will you be doing a video's on how to do tool paths in fusion 360 as i can tget my head around his software and a beginner
meaning like how you do little cuts as not to put to much preasure on the tool.
hope to see more of your great video's.
45kg of steel plate😂😂😂damm heavy. Overall Worthy upgrade.
Seems perhaps a nice piece of hardwood would have also made a good bed
@@Bahnamoon The problem here is no support in middle, there should have been some profile or bar like thing. Then you can pretty much use any board ply etc.
I have exactly the same machine. And exactly the same problem. I replaced the table, though not for such a metal plate, but still. The problem did not go away, it turned out that the spindle was slightly skewed ... that is, even when working with a spoiling cutter, stripes of the cut edges are visible. I am afraid that the spindle holder will have to be aligned. True, I do not yet know how to do this, and can I ask you for a link to the meter that you used in the video?
A lot of gear is built down to a price which limits performance. It looks like your upgrade really took it up a big notch for you. By the time you're done upgrading do you think you'll have any of the original machine left? Maybe you can keep one screw just for sentimental reasons. I bet even the screws in that machine are janky though.
Hey Paul, Love your comment! I bought this machine in first place for its price and second for the upgrade possibilities. I really enjoy the upgrade process and I learn a lot from it.
@@MBcreates having built a CNC machine from scratch myself I know how involved that process is. So I can understand why many would do anything to avoid it. Heck I even designed and built my own stepper motor drives. No, you don't want to know how long it took me to do that either.
if you had access to an oxyacetylene torch, you could try and straignten the steel plate a little more...
Very informative and excellent narration! I subscribed and look forward to future videos.
I think ply will expand in contact with water so maybe PLEXIGLAS will be better?
Good job. Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video! Why wood? ...Why not a composite or a thick Formica product?
Thank! Because it was the cheapest option :)
Hallo, ik heb dezelfde Frees. Bij mij staan de X en de Y as niet precies in een 90 graden hoek. Op een lengte van 35 cm ben ik 0,9 mm uit de 90 graden hoek.Kan men dat beter instellen. Verder een heel leerrijk filmpje!
Notevole upgrade. 👏
Nice Job and a lot of work. But you lose a lot of stiffness mounting a wooden plate on top. You're next cnc has to be a concrete one. Hihi.
Great job
Really nice video and a really nice (and needed) upgrade!
bravo, complimenti, un ottimo lavoro 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼
Thanks :)
Olá amigo, ficou ótimo, meus parabéns.
Obrigada
Great improvement!!
Was the steel plate even needed? What if you have just used 3/4 inch plywood?
Good video...there is no way to,add supports under the bed?
Good idea
Hi, i saw your video and questioned myself if this stealboard isnt any overkill? Does the havy weight effect the movement?
Is there a reason why you didnt used a thicker aluminium board? I mean you could have used an aluminium board that is same thickness as your steel and woodboard. I guess it should have similar stiffness but is lighter weight and you could have done inserts straight into it or use a nut mill...
Whould like to hear your opinion.
thank you
Hey
- the "stealboard" doensn't move
- The aluminium alternative was more expensive
- the weight of the steel helps with absorbing overal fibrations of the machine
MB
1:08 that BADLY needs washers and I'm surprised they weren't included.
Wow nice upgrade. Ive never seen 6040 CNC machining aluminum so well. Whats the wattage of your spindle?
Thanks Arthur! It’s a 1500 watt spindle.
i can say the wood under the machine act like a resonator this happened with my nas server that was making a lot og noise so i put it on the floor problem solved, so if you use a metal bench it should be fine with the aluminium bed
Nice video. Did the Y axis stepper motors handle the extra weight okay?
Hello. I see a video that this model of cnc got a bending nx X axis because the x axis rail are without back support. Thank you
Did you consider using cast tool and jig plate? Nice work though.
3:44 Fibartions?
Oops :)
I think thats the correct term for a fart vibration? :D
Nice!
Brilliant
Can I ask where you purchased this machine? I am interested in buying one
Hello, can you tell me if this router can make precise cuts in wood? have you ever made inlay ??
🤨Come on now, the machine extrusion t-slot bed had zero support in the middle now wonder the excessive flexing.
only bends 1/10th of a mm but how flat is it? milled steel plates aren't that flat. You need a precision ground one.
Hi. The brand I was looking at was Vevor 3040t . Do you think it would be any better of a unit over buying one from China. Try to make the best decision. I am totally new at this.
Awesome work!!! Really inspiring!
Awesome man! Are u happy with the machine overall?
After 4 year's of use do you have any rust on the steel bed. I got ½" iron plate that i got from a an ironwork friend and i am planning on doing the same thing. The only what worries me is the water mist cooling system i have. I probably would have to paint the iron first
Good job !!
how do you do when you want to level your machine. and does it exist auto-leveling for CNC..
I have similar machine nad issues. However, because I am using a small precision vice (38 x 105 x 45h mm) on the bed that I hummer with a mallet I am wondering if the vice will press down the wood and cause position displacement of the vice on the z-axis, do you think it is possible to face mill the iron even with a slow program?
i'm more interested on the table. that some badass table of yours ^^,
maybe you can help me. I am new to routing machine and i would like to buy one. i do not want to purchase one that's too cheap or one that's too expensive and complicated. i am worried about using the software. to be able to understand how to do things with the router, using the software. are there tutorials on using a router.
Hi. I am looking at the 3040 4 axis with a 400W spindle. Can I do aluminum with that. Maybe 1/4 inch. What do you think.
Did the thick steel plate made your machine quieter when cutting? I've found that aluminium extrusions as part of a CNC machine's structure ring like bells due to harmonic vibrations from the cutting tool and stepper motors.
ttjarrett
Im thinking about buying one of these and also thought the noise is a bit excessive for consistent use a residential area. I think I will put it in a standalone enclosure with tempered/laminated glass walls, might try utilise the dual pane doors from commercial display refrigerators, if I can get the argon gas in them purged and replaced with helium.
Also;
•thin bladder of helium sandwiched between paneling. (If bladder material suitable for helium is easily available.)
•vibration dampeners on mounting points within enclosure, and possibly for enclosures feet if unit is freestanding or cannot/should not be solid mounted to work bench/table.
yea.. i have this machine , its like a fucking tuning fork with the factory bed, need ear prtection to cut aluminum
Music is not required at all!!!!! We are here because we want to see your work. We will not wander off if we don't have annoying sounds to keep us occupied!
CNC 6040. Is the Y range really 600 mm (23.622 inches) ? One UA-camr (Csongor Varga) said the Y travel is only 50 cm? Can anyone tell me the exact distance of the longest axis?
"X,Y,Z Working Area 600(Y)*390（X）*120(Z)mm"
Hey MB! What is the holding power of your stepper motors? I have a 3040 that I'm looking to upgrade. I was going to go with the 100mm long 3.0NM NEMA23 steppers, but I can see that yours look closer to 70mm long?
Hi! What's your opinion about this machine? I'm planning to buy a Shapeoko 3 XXL, but I myself find it a little too expensive as I have to ship internationally - I'm just looking into options.
Very nice video... Glad I subbed!
Přemýšlím nad podobným vylepšení, jen mám CNC 6090 + vodní chlazení, tak použít dřevo je nepřípustné (ani ve tvém případě bych dřevo nepoužil, z důvodu změny roviny z důvodu vlhkosti okolní, nebo mazání nástroje). Základ bych použil ocelovou desku, jen ještě nevím jakou tloušťku a na to dám hliníkové profily a na srovnání použiji nějaký plast, aby byl odolný proti vodnímu chlazení nástroje.
Do you have the file for the ply wood plate you installed?
It‘s the Mill made of Steel? Our Aluminium?
The machine frame is made from Aluminium.
why didn't you buy a thicker steel plate? a 100kilos steel board. mill the a pair of steel feet and steel X axis.
Can you email me the setup instructions or video you used to setup the parameters in mach 3? I have the same machine...trying to get it working...thanks
was it still bending after screwing the bed down?
are ther 2 seperate files one for the plate steel and one for the spoil board??