Thank you for the video, you missed the bleeder screw for the air purge which is behind the thermostat housing. But if your way works just as well, then that's awesome.
No I am very well aware of the bleeder screw but since the car was up on a slope driveway that my method works just as well. Ironically I just serviced this car last night and it still running like a champ!
i guess im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a tool to log back into an instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the login password. I love any assistance you can offer me!
@Emmanuel Francisco thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
you don`t have to jack the car up on these 4 cylinders. Reach your hand down past the radiator hands. a level car lets more fluid to fall out of the engine. I recommend doing the while the engine is hot because the thermostat is open if you want to take the thermostat out you'll get even more fluid out from there. BTW the design on the petcock will shoot the fluid down into your pan so you wont get burned. just wait until the fluid stops flowing to open your radiator cap.
U guys are really good people I don't know what makes u share ur experience or help others for no return Thanks thank a lot This world need more people like u
Thanks for such a thorough explanation! Question: I had a roadside emergency and had to use tap water. If I just drain and fill is that sufficient or have I contaminated it to the point where it must be flushed?
Hey buddy your video it's fantastic the only one thing forgot to say is this process should start when the car it's cold because when it is hot doesn't get cold easily
@@piercedasian ...(you did say do this cold, and thanx again for the great video!) My coolant is completely leaking out slowly over a few days from underneath. Any suggestions on what it could be to figure out why and where? was hoping its a simple loose hose or something? Have never had this issue before. 2001 Accord.
thank you so much this is a wonderfully detailed video. this is an easy job that will save me $100 now that I know how to do it, thanks to your great explanation!
crappy funnel? i like that funnel a lot. Super smooth and generally well constructed and fits the honda radiator neck perfectly. Wow, never thought I'd stand up for a funnel... losing my marbles :p
The bleeder valve in the back of engine must be opened before coolant is added so air in engine block can get out. When there is a steady stream of coolant comes out through the bleeder valve without air, close the valve. If you don’t do this step, your engine will be over heated with AC on....I learned it the hard way....good luck.
Great tip but some engines don't have the air bleed hole. In fact when I worked at Honda that the techs NEVER opened up the air bleed screw even if the car had one. They simply kept filling the rad and revving the engine up to purge the system of air. Each car is slightly different but fortunately the Honda's have historically been very easy to service the coolant without too many issues of air lock in the system. The older accords and civics had a air bleed screw towards to the top of the upper rad hose where it enters the cylinder head but subsequent revisions of their engine parts actually deleted the bleeder valve as it was deemed unnecessary by Honda engineers.
Awesome video though man & also when i refill the radiator i take the bottom hose off & pour in alot of water & let it just clean the radiator then out the hose back & vamonos.
Glad you liked my video! Generally speaking if a radiator/cooling system is routinely maintained and you're using distilled or deionized water or pre-mixed coolant that there is little need need to actually "flush" coolant out of a system. For badly corroded or contaminated systems I would agree with your statement but that would be a completely different video that I would make highlighting the importance of flushing out all the junk in a dirty system.
there is probably a lot of air in the system. Try filling it, putting the cap on the rad, starting it and letting it run for a minute or two and then shut off engine and open cap to fill some more. Do you know if you have any head gasket issues?
you're correct on that one however, our engines in Canada are equipped with block heaters and they're behind the exhaust manifold in a weird spot that makes it very hard to access. Given there is roughly about 1 liter of coolant in the block and how frequently I change the coolant on cars (I change before the actual manufacturer's specified interval that chances are I'm more than making up for the loss of anti wear and corrosion agents in the old coolant. It is somewhat like an automatic transmission oil change. You can't quite get it all out but as long as the system is clean that you're diluting the old coolant with the new making up for any losses in anti wear agents. The key is to service regularly.
piercedasian well I found out it was the head gasket. Only symptoms so far is empty reservoir and a Lil bit of white smoke behind the engine. Is it safe if I just change the head gasket and my engine would be back to normal?
no need to, if the car is running and you squeeze the upper rad hose you can accomplish the same thing with minimal effort. All the new Honda vehicles don't even have a bleeder on the top of the cylinder head.
I had put in a ac line about two weeks ago on my accord and gave it a recharge on freon, about a week later me and my lady were taking it to get smogged and the car ended up overheating and when we finally pulled over the overflow tank had water coming out of it like when you take the cap off the radiator. but we had no choice but to fill it with water (while on) and left the ac off to at least reach home. we ended up taking it the day after to get smogged and it passed. I then ended up finding out the condenser fan was out so I replaced it.( live in temperatures 100+) now today I ran a few arons with the ac on and went to work, on my way home I realized my engine light was back on after changing a sensor, timing belt, and a alternator to remove it for smogg. I'm highly concerned for my engine and at this point thinking of a complete engine oil and coolant flush after watching this. I just don't understand why my light is back on but I know it's not good. I'm in real need of advice
HI, Thank you for sharing this video. I got a few questions for you. Hopefully you don't mind your sharing your knowledge. A little over a month ago I had my 2002 Honda Accord V4 old engine block changed out. The car runs smooth and more powerful and responsive than my old 230,000 mile engine. I used to get around 30 mpg with my old engine. However, now I only got about 20 mpg with this newer engine. Everything seems to be fine and there is no engine check light. Is there any reason why the mpg dropped so much? I am going to change out a set of OEM spark plugs, flush the coolant with Honda coolant and flush the transmission fluid with Honda fluid as well. Please help me. Thanks.
John there are a multitude of reasons why your economy might not be as good. You're on the right track that you should do the key things like plugs, fluids and such but you should also consider cleaning the throttle body (I have a vid on that for Civic that would be basically the same for the accord so go watch that), make sure your ignition timing is spot on, check your tires are properly inflated and reset the ECU and do a ECU relearn procedure. Other things to check is your thermostat function (does the car heat up to temperature properly in a reasonable time frame?). Lastly consider replacing both 02 sensors. The new engine likely had the old O2 sensor on it and they DO wear out and get less responsive with age. Some wear out faster than others but putting in a new NGK (must be NGK) one will result in accurate emissions measurement which will help with fuel economy. I recently did a o2 sensor replacement on a car that wasn't throwing any codes and the MPG increased by over 15% consistently tank after tank. Suffice to say the owner of the car was pleased that his $200 sensor replacement paid itself off in just 2 months of fuel savings.
+piercedasian Thank you. after changing all the fluids and plugs. it is still the same. I am waiting for afr sensor. I will also going to clean the throttle body as well. after that I am going to give up!
I always change my coolant like this but I recently learned about the purging port above the thermostat housing. Haven't found a video on how to use that port, does it make a difference?
Not all accords or Honda have that port hence why I didn't demonstrate that purging port and how to use it. I figured that my method shown here is universal to all cars. That being said, let me explain how that port works. You crack that little nipple open prior to filling the cooling system. You start to fill the cooling system until you it starts to get full land coolant start to come out of either radiator filler neck or you see coolant bubbling out of the purge port. You start the car, run the heater on full hot (it opens up the valve to the heater core). Continue to fill the coolant until there are no more bubbles are coming from the purge nipple. Close nipple, top off rad, fill overflow reservoir. Reinstall rad cap and run engine until thermostat opens and cooling fan runs at least 2 cycles (increase idle rpms if you need to while watching to ensure car doesn't overheat. When cooling fans have come on at least 2x CAREFULLY crack the nipple open slightly (put a rag on top of the nipple or wear safety goggles) to let out any remaining air in the system - careful coolant and steam will be very hot. Close and you're finished! The nipple is supposed to be the highest point in the cooling system and anytime there is air in the cooling system that coolant won't circulate efficiently in the fluid circuit. The idea behind the nipple is that it allows the air to buildup at the highest point in the motor where you can release it. This is why I jacked up the car to do the coolant change, not because I need better access but instead I want to make the radiator filler neck the highest point in the cooling system so that air comes out of the filler neck instead so I can avoid making a mess of coolant dribbling all over the engine bay. Same idea but just different technique.
The thermostat doesn't always open when the system isn't under pressure lacks the ability to heat up properly in a timely manner. At least for Honda's the filling of the system is generally quite consistent with the thermostat opened or closed b/c there are "bleed passageways" and even a tiny coolant bypass built into the system that allows completely filling of the system if it is done in accordance to how i showed it in my video.
I have the same hinda but would having no antifreeze cuase the d4 light to blink on the dash and then it runs hot and can't shift over third or 4th gear plz help
I'm not sure but if the D4 light is blinking that is usually a sign that there is a transmission related problem. The fact that the engine runs hot is due to you lacking coolant in your motor.
If the coolant is extremely dirty i would do a flush. Running the car with the radiator cap off will help bleed the air out of the system. I have a 2000 accord and did a flush abd fill and my accord didn't have any problems with air in the system and i flushed it several times with no air bubbles
yes you can do that too BUT not every car has it. I have encountered some accords with bleeder screws and some without. I made my video using the lowest common denominator configuration where the accord did not have a bleeder screw. By showing it this way then whether you have a bleeder or not will still yield a properly bled system.
Hey I think a broke my drain plug I'm not sure it looks intact but when I put it in the water still comes out of the lower hole few mm away from plug. I bought one from AutoZone and it didn't fit. So now I'm just wondering what the original one looked like.
I don't recall replying to your question. I'm sure I'm way past being useful but you likely cracked the drain port on the rad. They are made of plastic and as a car ages and heat cycles that the plastic naturally becomes brittle. Did you end up replacing the radiator to fix the leak? Was it the plug's o-ring?
You just need to get genuine Honda coolant or the asian vehicle compatible coolant from your local parts store. I like using the OEM branded coolant designed for subaru/Honda vehicles.
-- first related question is Where should the Temp Gauge needle sit? --- when i took my 99 Accord to get new radiator hose replaced the temp gauge was about 1/4 up --- after new hose was put on the temp gauge needle sits just below half way point ... why would that change happen? --- does that mean there is air in the system --- i was asked if my tech bled the system and i dont remember if he did --- i was there in the shop watching him change the hose but dont remember if he bled system ... im concerned about the temp gauge being right under half way point ?
Sorry for the super late reply. Been insanely busy with work. Temp gauge should be just slightly below the halfway mark. Temp gauge at the 1/4 mark before a hose replacement? I can't explain why but the proper temp should be just slightly under half. If he didn't bleed the system that eventually the car would bleed itself. Just make sure you have sufficient coolant in the overflow reservoir so that any air that is pushed out of the system will be filled back with coolant when the engine cools.
piercedasian with regards to my Accord it does sit just below the halfway mark... But it was my CRX that always seem to be at the 1/4 maybe just above 1/4 and 1/2 so that's why I was confused but thanks again
you have a CRX????! So do I! I was going to do a walk around video of "blast from the past". The Accord's temps are proper and it is the CRX that is having the issues. Ironically my CRX had the same problem as yours too where it wasn't heating up to operating temps and when it did that the moment you flipped the heater on that the temp would drop to near nothing. Thermostat replacement is in order (I just did the vid for it) and your CRX will then be just under the halfway mark like where it should be. What year is your CRX? Mine is a Canadian edition 1990 Si that is factory fresh still.
piercedasian ... hey what's up... My 1990 CRX is also from Canada... Bought it here in Dallas... By the way you mentioned that your CRX had overheating issues like mine, but mine never had overheating issues... whether or not I turned the heater on the temperature gauge was at the level further below the center than my Honda Accord and above the 1/4 level that's how it was since I first bought it and it pretty much never changed and never had issues whether the AC on or heater on... Again my Accord temperature needle is just below the center Mark but my CRX was maybe five notches below that as i said between 1/4 and a 1/2 marker and never had issues regarding that ... I just noticed it recently as I was comparing the mark to the Accord. ... by the way where are you located and do you have any pictures of your CRX?
should i use this exact type of coolant vs the Peak brand coolants? I am confused about which coolant my Honda Accord EX 2000 needs. Also when you are refilling the reservoir, is it suppose to go up to MAX line? or the MIN line?
I prefer always using factory fluids where possible to minimize any potential for incompatibility. That being said, using PEAK branded coolant is fine as long as it is meant for asian vehicles or is "universal". For the first fill after a coolant change I like to fill to the MAX line so that if there is any air in the coolant circuit that it is replaced by the coolant in the reserve tank. Worst case is that it overflows a little. Better be too full than too low for coolant.
yes yes, fully aware of that mishap on my part. I don't know WHAT I was thinking back when I did the video thinking it was a 2.2... my brain just isn't working the same as it was 20 years ago LOL.
nope only the petcock. in Canada all our cars have block heaters in place of the block plug which makes removal to drain the block no so easy (b/c the heater protrudes out enough to make it hard to remove. Usually coolant drain and fills are more than sufficient if you're on top of maintenance.
No not at all. Having it raised slightly just makes bleeding the system marginally quicker. Many shops have level floors and they do successfully do coolant changes all the time without issues. If you have flat ground just spend more time squeezing that upper hose to get the air bubbles all out. If you have a bleeder valve on your thermostat housing you can always crack that open to get faster results too but it can be a little messier doing it that way and spilled coolant is bad for the environment.
I got a 1996 accord it run good and smooth,but every time I turn on the AC after 30,40 minutes the temperature goes up and pass the half. I don't have thermostat on it,I flushed the entire system,my head gasket it's okay,radiator cap is okay,and I'm still can't find the solution. How can you help me solve this?
you likely have a defective radiator temperature fan switch. The rad fan switch is typically located in the radiator. Don't forget to also check or replace your rad cap with a known good cap since caps do fail to hold pressure as they age.
idk what the heck is going on with my JDM h23a coolant I replaced water pump, Filled up radiator and turned on car. never warmed up enough so I filled up overfill jug it was boiling hot shooting coolant out of it and felt like it wasnt getting it in the engine also i have a drain plug on my tstats nipple 12mm
is this the same procedure for a 2013 odyssey?? Thanks for your videos, they are so helpful and really save people a lot of money when they do it themselves.
I completely stand corrected.... I can't believe I said F22 in that vid. Totally a F23. My bad and my apologies. That is what happens when you're going on little sleep...
The block drain plug is actually the block heater. Use a 24mm wrench to undo it. It should be on the front of the engine block just slightly behind the exhaust manifold.
@piercedasian i put some Autozone universal 50/50 antifreeze coolant in my own honda accord 4cyl. Is that type of antifreeze ok for the car in your opinion?
It likely is fine. Almost all car makers now require coolants to be made with zero borates which is what wears out modern water pumps. I believe most coolants are also formulated using OATs and are "mostly universal". The only exception to this is GMs DexCool. GM coolant has compatibility issues but you're clearly not using it on a GM so I doubt you'll have problems.
Thanks for this video. I will be doing my 03 CRV this weekend. How many jugs of coolant do I need? And the coolant in the CRV is factory green color, the new stuff is blue color from the dealer, Is it ok to mix together? Thanks in advance
why my response is likely waaaay past being useful that you can mix green and blue coolant together. Good that you're using the genuine coolant. Get 2 jugs and that's plenty.
both fans should come on when the engine is up to temperature and the coolant sensor detects coolant that is hotter than the acceptable limit. Typically 104C
not true at all... all the modern honda's including the revised part for the accord (should you ever in a weird situation need to replace that head to hose joint) doesn't come with the bleeder valve. The bleeder valve just helps the bleeding process faster but isn't necessary to do the coolant change correctly. In fact the method I showed will ensure that those that do and don't have the bleeder screw all do it the same way.
Hi i will make DIY to change coolant my accord 95 model. how many liters or gallons of coolant do i need? planning to by asap as soon you reply please advice thanks :)
if you're doing a drain and fill as per this instructional video than a single 4 liter jug of pre-mixed Honda coolant should be sufficient. Do not dilute the coolant on pre-mixed with water otherwise you'll compromise freeze protection.
piercedasian my coolant is dark green but I want to do a flush so I bought Honda type 2 coolant that came in the color blue and my concern is nothing will happen if they mix?
not all honda motors always had the bleeder valve. Honda even sold a "revised" elbow for the cylinder head that didn't even have the bleeder on it. I like using the bleeder valve myself but for the purposes of showing the audience a procedure that can be universally applied to pretty much every car on the road, that I went with a more traditional approach.
Hmm, I don't have an accord to work on just yet but it is relatively easy to do this job. Drain the system as per my video and undo the hose and re-install new hose and refill.
I just changed the lower hose. Once you remove the screw clamp on the top part of the lower hose, you should remove a few items to make it easier to install. I removed the clamp on the top hose and disconnected it from the radiator (right next to the radiator cap). I also took out the 2 screws and unplugged the electrical connection and removed the fan in the plastic housing. This allowed me to access the lower hose's screw clamp.
Its easiest to take out radiator as whole & disconnect the bottom hose from the top & take it out attached... once out can remove the clamp, & place hose in same position/angle, & put it all back together same way you took it out
I don't know why, but on my mother's Honda Accord (she's had it since it was new), where the petcock valve should be, there is instead a short piece of what looks to be maybe a 1/2" i.d. rubber hose with a hose clamp on it. The hose does not attach to any other fitting or hose. It's just a short piece of hose about 2 inches long, slid onto either a nipple or maybe covering the petcock valve. I've never seen anything like it before. Since it's hard to get to, I haven't yet removed the piece of hose to see if it's covering a petcock valve, or why the hose is even there. The way the hose clamp is positioned, it will be hard to get a screwdriver or nut driver in there to loosen the clamp. Has anyone else encountered this situation, or am I the only one?
hmm that is odd. I can't say that I have experienced that myself. Are you sure the radiator hasn't been previously replaced or was serviced by someone that might have popped that hose and clamp on the nipple of the radiator?
Exactly what Franciso said... Remove the lower rad hose. Are you sure the radiator doesn't have a drain plug? I don't think I've ever see a radiator that didn't have one.
yes you're right that it can be done that way but I like jacking up the car just a little bit to put the car on a slight upwards angle b/c it helps get the air out of the motor quicker when you're filling it.
yes, thanks for that. I totally caught myself on this one AFTER I published it. I can't believe I made that mistake when I used to work on these cars all day long.
does not blow as in it moves no air at all? Does it work at ANY fan speed setting? If it only works on max then the blower resistor is blown and needs replacing.
Yes you're correct, I've worked on all sorts of Honda 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 engines and I may have incorrectly narrated the engine displacement. My bad if I did :(
Love the way you show the jackpoints BRAVO! This info is sort of difficult to find on GOOGLE. There's no diagrams. THUMB UP!
The devil is in the details... glad you liked the video!
You forgot to add there is a bleeder screw right on the thermostat housing by the vtec solenoid on a f23a4 2.3
Great vid! I did this today on my Accord, and it went smoothly. Petcock was pretty tight, but I was able to get it off with Channel lock pliers.
glad you got your coolant changed out!
So many never shows the right way and points where to jack up a car
Thank you!
glad you liked the video! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the help. I didn’t have a jack so I used the curb(sidewalk) on the front left side to help me get underneath easier lol
No problem! Thanks for stopping by.
Thank you for the video, you missed the bleeder screw for the air purge which is behind the thermostat housing. But if your way works just as well, then that's awesome.
No I am very well aware of the bleeder screw but since the car was up on a slope driveway that my method works just as well. Ironically I just serviced this car last night and it still running like a champ!
Most descriptive and helpful video yet. Thank you for explaining yourself in great detail. Instant subscription from me.
glad you liked my video!
Thank you! Needed clear how-to so I can be sure Mama's car is right. Great vid!
glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
i guess im asking the wrong place but does any of you know a tool to log back into an instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the login password. I love any assistance you can offer me!
@Ameer Finnegan Instablaster ;)
@Emmanuel Francisco thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Emmanuel Francisco it did the trick and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out !
wow , finally a very easy to follow and understand video...thanks so much
Glad it was helpful!
Very detailed instruction and demonstration. Informative and very clear. Thanks a lot.
glad you liked my video. Thanks for watching!
Sweet, wish you posted more videos on 6th gen accords. Very informative video.
I would IF the 6th gen needed more work but these things are fairly solid and do not need much work to keep them going.
you don`t have to jack the car up on these 4 cylinders. Reach your hand down past the radiator hands. a level car lets more fluid to fall out of the engine. I recommend doing the while the engine is hot because the thermostat is open if you want to take the thermostat out you'll get even more fluid out from there. BTW the design on the petcock will shoot the fluid down into your pan so you wont get burned. just wait until the fluid stops flowing to open your radiator cap.
great tips! Thanks for sharing them!
U guys are really good people
I don't know what makes u share ur experience or help others for no return
Thanks thank a lot
This world need more people like u
The 98 to the 2002 Accord has a 2.3 VTEC NOT A 2.2 get it right!
@@mahmoudalalami6232 cuz in the end we all help each other
Thanks for such a thorough explanation!
Question: I had a roadside emergency and had to use tap water. If I just drain and fill is that sufficient or have I contaminated it to the point where it must be flushed?
Hey buddy your video it's fantastic the only one thing forgot to say is this process should start when the car it's cold because when it is hot doesn't get cold easily
Valid point. I swear I said that at the start of the video but if I didn't then my sincerest apologies.
@@piercedasian ...(you did say do this cold, and thanx again for the great video!) My coolant is completely leaking out slowly over a few days from underneath. Any suggestions on what it could be to figure out why and where? was hoping its a simple loose hose or something? Have never had this issue before. 2001 Accord.
thank you so much this is a wonderfully detailed video. this is an easy job that will save me $100 now that I know how to do it, thanks to your great explanation!
glad I could be of service to you :)
Thank you. You are a scientist. Great explanations.
You are welcome!
Nice, you have the same crappy funnel I bought to fill my radiator. Cheapest one from Canadian Tire lol.
crappy funnel? i like that funnel a lot. Super smooth and generally well constructed and fits the honda radiator neck perfectly. Wow, never thought I'd stand up for a funnel... losing my marbles :p
@@piercedasian haha looks better than the piece of crap i made i need to buy one
Great video, very clear instructions. I'm gonna do myself 👍
glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching!
The bleeder valve in the back of engine must be opened before coolant is added so air in engine block can get out. When there is a steady stream of coolant comes out through the bleeder valve without air, close the valve. If you don’t do this step, your engine will be over heated with AC on....I learned it the hard way....good luck.
Great tip but some engines don't have the air bleed hole. In fact when I worked at Honda that the techs NEVER opened up the air bleed screw even if the car had one. They simply kept filling the rad and revving the engine up to purge the system of air. Each car is slightly different but fortunately the Honda's have historically been very easy to service the coolant without too many issues of air lock in the system. The older accords and civics had a air bleed screw towards to the top of the upper rad hose where it enters the cylinder head but subsequent revisions of their engine parts actually deleted the bleeder valve as it was deemed unnecessary by Honda engineers.
Thank you for your detailed and easy to follow video. Much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. Made it look easy and simple.
Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.
Amazing and very thorough video !you saved me time and money!!
Glad I could help!
Awesome video though man & also when i refill the radiator i take the bottom hose off & pour in alot of water & let it just clean the radiator then out the hose back & vamonos.
Glad you liked my video! Generally speaking if a radiator/cooling system is routinely maintained and you're using distilled or deionized water or pre-mixed coolant that there is little need need to actually "flush" coolant out of a system. For badly corroded or contaminated systems I would agree with your statement but that would be a completely different video that I would make highlighting the importance of flushing out all the junk in a dirty system.
Once I filled the radiator and turned on the car how you said, the coolant starting coming out of the radiator cap
there is probably a lot of air in the system. Try filling it, putting the cap on the rad, starting it and letting it run for a minute or two and then shut off engine and open cap to fill some more. Do you know if you have any head gasket issues?
Thank you dude this was great
No problem! Glad it helped.
There's a second drain plug on the engine itself on the front facing part of the engine. You just drain the radiator and not the engine.
you're correct on that one however, our engines in Canada are equipped with block heaters and they're behind the exhaust manifold in a weird spot that makes it very hard to access. Given there is roughly about 1 liter of coolant in the block and how frequently I change the coolant on cars (I change before the actual manufacturer's specified interval that chances are I'm more than making up for the loss of anti wear and corrosion agents in the old coolant. It is somewhat like an automatic transmission oil change. You can't quite get it all out but as long as the system is clean that you're diluting the old coolant with the new making up for any losses in anti wear agents. The key is to service regularly.
Well and professional explanation.
glad you liked my video.
Nice detail. Thank you
you're welcome.
Thankyou so much for this video
You're most welcome!
Your video helped me out a lot. Thanks for making it. 👌🏽
you're most welcome. Thank you for watching it!
Will this process work on Honda accord 2007?
Very well detailed
glad you liked the vid.
No peacock on my radiator. What else can I do?
There’s a hole in my coolant reservoir by where the cap is put on. Not sure if that’s why my coolant bottle is getting empty.
Hole is supposed to be there. If coolant is disappearing that you may be burning it via a bad head gasket or you’re leaking somewhere.
piercedasian well I found out it was the head gasket. Only symptoms so far is empty reservoir and a Lil bit of white smoke behind the engine. Is it safe if I just change the head gasket and my engine would be back to normal?
Appreciate the video. Wondering why you didn't open the bleeder bolt on the thermostat?
no need to, if the car is running and you squeeze the upper rad hose you can accomplish the same thing with minimal effort. All the new Honda vehicles don't even have a bleeder on the top of the cylinder head.
do you need to raise the vehicle?
And the drain bolt on the block?
Can I do this exact process on my Honda Accord 2005?
yep the coolants change procedure on almost every car is done the same way.
do you need to drain the coolant?
I had put in a ac line about two weeks ago on my accord and gave it a recharge on freon, about a week later me and my lady were taking it to get smogged and the car ended up overheating and when we finally pulled over the overflow tank had water coming out of it like when you take the cap off the radiator. but we had no choice but to fill it with water (while on) and left the ac off to at least reach home. we ended up taking it the day after to get smogged and it passed. I then ended up finding out the condenser fan was out so I replaced it.( live in temperatures 100+) now today I ran a few arons with the ac on and went to work, on my way home I realized my engine light was back on after changing a sensor, timing belt, and a alternator to remove it for smogg. I'm highly concerned for my engine and at this point thinking of a complete engine oil and coolant flush after watching this. I just don't understand why my light is back on but I know it's not good. I'm in real need of advice
You can get a check engine light diagnosed at most auto part stores for free. Mine simply required a fuel treatment.
you need to pull the code and as COOMIC0374 has pointed out. Get the code and report back.
This is helpful. Thank you.
You’re welcome!
Excellent video. Thanks.
glad you liked it.
Great vid
HI,
Thank you for sharing this video. I got a few questions for you. Hopefully you don't mind your sharing your knowledge. A little over a month ago I had my 2002 Honda Accord V4 old engine block changed out. The car runs smooth and more powerful and responsive than my old 230,000 mile engine. I used to get around 30 mpg with my old engine. However, now I only got about 20 mpg with this newer engine. Everything seems to be fine and there is no engine check light. Is there any reason why the mpg dropped so much? I am going to change out a set of OEM spark plugs, flush the coolant with Honda coolant and flush the transmission fluid with Honda fluid as well. Please help me. Thanks.
John there are a multitude of reasons why your economy might not be as good. You're on the right track that you should do the key things like plugs, fluids and such but you should also consider cleaning the throttle body (I have a vid on that for Civic that would be basically the same for the accord so go watch that), make sure your ignition timing is spot on, check your tires are properly inflated and reset the ECU and do a ECU relearn procedure. Other things to check is your thermostat function (does the car heat up to temperature properly in a reasonable time frame?). Lastly consider replacing both 02 sensors. The new engine likely had the old O2 sensor on it and they DO wear out and get less responsive with age. Some wear out faster than others but putting in a new NGK (must be NGK) one will result in accurate emissions measurement which will help with fuel economy. I recently did a o2 sensor replacement on a car that wasn't throwing any codes and the MPG increased by over 15% consistently tank after tank. Suffice to say the owner of the car was pleased that his $200 sensor replacement paid itself off in just 2 months of fuel savings.
+piercedasian Thank you. after changing all the fluids and plugs. it is still the same. I am waiting for afr sensor. I will also going to clean the throttle body as well. after that I am going to give up!
@@johnlim6108 how did it end?
@@MarcoH84 it didn't end well. I sold the car.
@@johnlim6108, thanks for your reply and that's a pity. Changing the sensor and cleaning the throttle body didn't work?
I love this video!
I love the fact that you love my video. Thank you for watching!
Great work out thank you
You're so welcome!
I always change my coolant like this but I recently learned about the purging port above the thermostat housing. Haven't found a video on how to use that port, does it make a difference?
Not all accords or Honda have that port hence why I didn't demonstrate that purging port and how to use it. I figured that my method shown here is universal to all cars. That being said, let me explain how that port works. You crack that little nipple open prior to filling the cooling system. You start to fill the cooling system until you it starts to get full land coolant start to come out of either radiator filler neck or you see coolant bubbling out of the purge port. You start the car, run the heater on full hot (it opens up the valve to the heater core). Continue to fill the coolant until there are no more bubbles are coming from the purge nipple. Close nipple, top off rad, fill overflow reservoir. Reinstall rad cap and run engine until thermostat opens and cooling fan runs at least 2 cycles (increase idle rpms if you need to while watching to ensure car doesn't overheat. When cooling fans have come on at least 2x CAREFULLY crack the nipple open slightly (put a rag on top of the nipple or wear safety goggles) to let out any remaining air in the system - careful coolant and steam will be very hot. Close and you're finished! The nipple is supposed to be the highest point in the cooling system and anytime there is air in the cooling system that coolant won't circulate efficiently in the fluid circuit. The idea behind the nipple is that it allows the air to buildup at the highest point in the motor where you can release it. This is why I jacked up the car to do the coolant change, not because I need better access but instead I want to make the radiator filler neck the highest point in the cooling system so that air comes out of the filler neck instead so I can avoid making a mess of coolant dribbling all over the engine bay. Same idea but just different technique.
Idk if anyone told you but, you gotta leave the radiator cap open & wait till the thermostat opens & the you will be able to put my fluid in.
The thermostat doesn't always open when the system isn't under pressure lacks the ability to heat up properly in a timely manner. At least for Honda's the filling of the system is generally quite consistent with the thermostat opened or closed b/c there are "bleed passageways" and even a tiny coolant bypass built into the system that allows completely filling of the system if it is done in accordance to how i showed it in my video.
great video!
Thanks!
I have the same hinda but would having no antifreeze cuase the d4 light to blink on the dash and then it runs hot and can't shift over third or 4th gear plz help
I'm not sure but if the D4 light is blinking that is usually a sign that there is a transmission related problem. The fact that the engine runs hot is due to you lacking coolant in your motor.
@@piercedasian I thank you but I sold the car now ik when I buy another one
I am going to replace my 2000 Honda accord radiator as well as the lower radiator hose, do I need to flush or bleed my coolant??
If the coolant is extremely dirty i would do a flush. Running the car with the radiator cap off will help bleed the air out of the system. I have a 2000 accord and did a flush abd fill and my accord didn't have any problems with air in the system and i flushed it several times with no air bubbles
Awesome thank you very much, I loosen up the bleeder valve ( I believe it is called that) and it worked like a beauty.
What about use of the bleeder screw near the thermostat housing in order to expel the final bit of air?
yes you can do that too BUT not every car has it. I have encountered some accords with bleeder screws and some without. I made my video using the lowest common denominator configuration where the accord did not have a bleeder screw. By showing it this way then whether you have a bleeder or not will still yield a properly bled system.
Good video manual. How many hoses are there in 2002 Honda for the coolant circuit? When do you change the hose?
hmm I can't say I recall. Probably 6-8 hoses for sure.
thanks man very thorough help me out alot videos skills on point sun!
glad you liked my vid. Thanks for watching!
Does this work on 6 cylinder 99 accords too? Cuz I can't find videos anywhere... Everything is on 4 cylinder accords 🤦
yep the coolant change procedure is identical on every honda engine.
Hey I think a broke my drain plug I'm not sure it looks intact but when I put it in the water still comes out of the lower hole few mm away from plug. I bought one from AutoZone and it didn't fit. So now I'm just wondering what the original one looked like.
I don't recall replying to your question. I'm sure I'm way past being useful but you likely cracked the drain port on the rad. They are made of plastic and as a car ages and heat cycles that the plastic naturally becomes brittle. Did you end up replacing the radiator to fix the leak? Was it the plug's o-ring?
i have a ‘99 accord LX, what coolant do i get? and should i flush out the old coolant or can i keep it in there since it’s at the minimum level?
You just need to get genuine Honda coolant or the asian vehicle compatible coolant from your local parts store. I like using the OEM branded coolant designed for subaru/Honda vehicles.
@@piercedasian got ya, thanks a lot!
Great video brother! how did you dispose the waste coolant?
I took it to my local municipality that has a collection site that takes old oil and coolant.
awesome tutorial.
glad you liked my vid!
-- first related question is Where should the Temp Gauge needle sit? --- when i took my 99 Accord to get new radiator hose replaced the temp gauge was about 1/4 up --- after new hose was put on the temp gauge needle sits just below half way point ... why would that change happen? --- does that mean there is air in the system --- i was asked if my tech bled the system and i dont remember if he did --- i was there in the shop watching him change the hose but dont remember if he bled system ... im concerned about the temp gauge being right under half way point ?
Sorry for the super late reply. Been insanely busy with work. Temp gauge should be just slightly below the halfway mark. Temp gauge at the 1/4 mark before a hose replacement? I can't explain why but the proper temp should be just slightly under half. If he didn't bleed the system that eventually the car would bleed itself. Just make sure you have sufficient coolant in the overflow reservoir so that any air that is pushed out of the system will be filled back with coolant when the engine cools.
piercedasian with regards to my Accord it does sit just below the halfway mark... But it was my CRX that always seem to be at the 1/4 maybe just above 1/4 and 1/2 so that's why I was confused but thanks again
you have a CRX????! So do I! I was going to do a walk around video of "blast from the past". The Accord's temps are proper and it is the CRX that is having the issues. Ironically my CRX had the same problem as yours too where it wasn't heating up to operating temps and when it did that the moment you flipped the heater on that the temp would drop to near nothing. Thermostat replacement is in order (I just did the vid for it) and your CRX will then be just under the halfway mark like where it should be. What year is your CRX? Mine is a Canadian edition 1990 Si that is factory fresh still.
piercedasian ... hey what's up... My 1990 CRX is also from Canada... Bought it here in Dallas... By the way you mentioned that your CRX had overheating issues like mine, but mine never had overheating issues... whether or not I turned the heater on the temperature gauge was at the level further below the center than my Honda Accord and above the 1/4 level that's how it was since I first bought it and it pretty much never changed and never had issues whether the AC on or heater on... Again my Accord temperature needle is just below the center Mark but my CRX was maybe five notches below that as i said between 1/4 and a 1/2 marker and never had issues regarding that ... I just noticed it recently as I was comparing the mark to the Accord.
... by the way where are you located and do you have any pictures of your CRX?
If my radiator is throwing little smoke would that mean that my head gasket is going to blow?
no it means your radiator is leaking and the smoke is actually steam from the sheer heat the radiator has and is evaporating the leaked coolant.
piercedasian I found the problem, my radiator wasn't leaking but I do have a blown head gasket.
Awesome vid! Did you just use one gallon jug of the OEM coolant?
yep
should i use this exact type of coolant vs the Peak brand coolants? I am confused about which coolant my Honda Accord EX 2000 needs. Also when you are refilling the reservoir, is it suppose to go up to MAX line? or the MIN line?
I prefer always using factory fluids where possible to minimize any potential for incompatibility. That being said, using PEAK branded coolant is fine as long as it is meant for asian vehicles or is "universal". For the first fill after a coolant change I like to fill to the MAX line so that if there is any air in the coolant circuit that it is replaced by the coolant in the reserve tank. Worst case is that it overflows a little. Better be too full than too low for coolant.
Great video, just a lil correction: it’s a 2.3
yes yes, fully aware of that mishap on my part. I don't know WHAT I was thinking back when I did the video thinking it was a 2.2... my brain just isn't working the same as it was 20 years ago LOL.
All I need now is a flat service to park my car on.
Admitted, i did only skip through this video, but did you take off the block coolant plug too? Or only the petcock
nope only the petcock. in Canada all our cars have block heaters in place of the block plug which makes removal to drain the block no so easy (b/c the heater protrudes out enough to make it hard to remove. Usually coolant drain and fills are more than sufficient if you're on top of maintenance.
Hi - does this bleed procedure depend on the front of the car being raised to be successful ?
No not at all. Having it raised slightly just makes bleeding the system marginally quicker. Many shops have level floors and they do successfully do coolant changes all the time without issues. If you have flat ground just spend more time squeezing that upper hose to get the air bubbles all out. If you have a bleeder valve on your thermostat housing you can always crack that open to get faster results too but it can be a little messier doing it that way and spilled coolant is bad for the environment.
It’s a 2.3l engine with the 4cyl.
I got a 1996 accord it run good and smooth,but every time I turn on the AC after 30,40 minutes the temperature goes up and pass the half.
I don't have thermostat on it,I flushed the entire system,my head gasket it's okay,radiator cap is okay,and I'm still can't find the solution. How can you help me solve this?
you likely have a defective radiator temperature fan switch. The rad fan switch is typically located in the radiator. Don't forget to also check or replace your rad cap with a known good cap since caps do fail to hold pressure as they age.
Muy buen video, me gusta
no problemo!
idk what the heck is going on with my JDM h23a coolant I replaced water pump, Filled up radiator and turned on car. never warmed up enough so I filled up overfill jug it was boiling hot shooting coolant out of it and felt like it wasnt getting it in the engine also i have a drain plug on my tstats nipple 12mm
are you sure your head gasket isn't blown? That would be the only logical explanation of why it's bubbling out like boiling water.
was rad cap i heard..
is this the same procedure for a 2013 odyssey?? Thanks for your videos, they are so helpful and really save people a lot of money when they do it themselves.
Yep the procedure is fundamentally the same.
so its not neccesary to open the coolant bleeder valve when puting in the new coolant?
+js dummy bleeder valve? the one on the engine block?
+W Guan the one by the thermostat housing
+js dummy it does no harm and speeds up the process however, not all cars or Honda's for that matter have a bleeder valve on the thermostat housing..
+piercedasian thanks
not a problem!
Dealer tryna make me pay 800$ I think this video is worth more ✅😈
Lol what 6th gen accords came with an f22? They were either f23 4 cylinder or j30 6 cylinder engines
I completely stand corrected.... I can't believe I said F22 in that vid. Totally a F23. My bad and my apologies. That is what happens when you're going on little sleep...
Would you know where the engine block drain bolt/plug is located on a 2005 Honda Accord V4?
The block drain plug is actually the block heater. Use a 24mm wrench to undo it. It should be on the front of the engine block just slightly behind the exhaust manifold.
LtnaPrd o
@piercedasian i put some Autozone universal 50/50 antifreeze coolant in my own honda accord 4cyl. Is that type of antifreeze ok for the car in your opinion?
It likely is fine. Almost all car makers now require coolants to be made with zero borates which is what wears out modern water pumps. I believe most coolants are also formulated using OATs and are "mostly universal". The only exception to this is GMs DexCool. GM coolant has compatibility issues but you're clearly not using it on a GM so I doubt you'll have problems.
I baught the polar brand 50/50 for my 2002 Honda Accord would that be ok to use?
as long as it is universal/asian brand compatible then you're all good!
Thanks for this video. I will be doing my 03 CRV this weekend. How many jugs of coolant do I need? And the coolant in the CRV is factory green color, the new stuff is blue color from the dealer, Is it ok to mix together? Thanks in advance
why my response is likely waaaay past being useful that you can mix green and blue coolant together. Good that you're using the genuine coolant. Get 2 jugs and that's plenty.
after this do both fans need to be on at all times? or just one should be enough
both fans should come on when the engine is up to temperature and the coolant sensor detects coolant that is hotter than the acceptable limit. Typically 104C
thank you!
You're welcome!
What about the bleeder screw on the 98 accord models it's not there for show so this video is invalid
not true at all... all the modern honda's including the revised part for the accord (should you ever in a weird situation need to replace that head to hose joint) doesn't come with the bleeder valve. The bleeder valve just helps the bleeding process faster but isn't necessary to do the coolant change correctly. In fact the method I showed will ensure that those that do and don't have the bleeder screw all do it the same way.
@@piercedasian I have a 98 and it has a bleeder screw you obviously don't know what you're talking about
Hi i will make DIY to change coolant my accord 95 model. how many liters or gallons of coolant do i need?
planning to by asap as soon you reply please advice thanks :)
if you're doing a drain and fill as per this instructional video than a single 4 liter jug of pre-mixed Honda coolant should be sufficient. Do not dilute the coolant on pre-mixed with water otherwise you'll compromise freeze protection.
THANK YOU :) :)
you're welcome!
Is the coolant supposed to be dark green or blue?
It can be either color. Some Honda’s came with blue coolant while others came with a dark green coolant.
piercedasian my coolant is dark green but I want to do a flush so I bought Honda type 2 coolant that came in the color blue and my concern is nothing will happen if they mix?
Nope as long as you use Honda coolant then you’re fine. I mix green and blue Honda coolant all the time.
Thanks!!!!
No problem!
wouldbt have been easier to use the bleeder valve?
not all honda motors always had the bleeder valve. Honda even sold a "revised" elbow for the cylinder head that didn't even have the bleeder on it. I like using the bleeder valve myself but for the purposes of showing the audience a procedure that can be universally applied to pretty much every car on the road, that I went with a more traditional approach.
Thank u
No problem
Can anyone show me a video where I can change the lower coolant hose please? For a Honda Accord 1998 lx
Hmm, I don't have an accord to work on just yet but it is relatively easy to do this job. Drain the system as per my video and undo the hose and re-install new hose and refill.
I just changed the lower hose. Once you remove the screw clamp on the top part of the lower hose, you should remove a few items to make it easier to install. I removed the clamp on the top hose and disconnected it from the radiator (right next to the radiator cap). I also took out the 2 screws and unplugged the electrical connection and removed the fan in the plastic housing. This allowed me to access the lower hose's screw clamp.
hope u changed the upper hose while u r at it.
lower is harder than the upper.
Its easiest to take out radiator as whole & disconnect the bottom hose from the top & take it out attached... once out can remove the clamp, & place hose in same position/angle, & put it all back together same way you took it out
I don't know why, but on my mother's Honda Accord (she's had it since it was new), where the petcock valve should be, there is instead a short piece of what looks to be maybe a 1/2" i.d. rubber hose with a hose clamp on it. The hose does not attach to any other fitting or hose. It's just a short piece of hose about 2 inches long, slid onto either a nipple or maybe covering the petcock valve. I've never seen anything like it before. Since it's hard to get to, I haven't yet removed the piece of hose to see if it's covering a petcock valve, or why the hose is even there. The way the hose clamp is positioned, it will be hard to get a screwdriver or nut driver in there to loosen the clamp.
Has anyone else encountered this situation, or am I the only one?
hmm that is odd. I can't say that I have experienced that myself. Are you sure the radiator hasn't been previously replaced or was serviced by someone that might have popped that hose and clamp on the nipple of the radiator?
Only 1 gallon?
yep that's about all it needs for a drain and fill.
My car has an aftermarket radiator (no drain valve, from what I can see😣). Can I just drain from the engine block? If so, where's the bolt for that?
Disconnect the lower radiator hose
Exactly what Franciso said... Remove the lower rad hose. Are you sure the radiator doesn't have a drain plug? I don't think I've ever see a radiator that didn't have one.
Thanks, I ended up having to do what Francisco recommended. Definitely no drain valve on it, looked everywhere.
Used distilled if you are gonna use water
deionized water works just fine as well.
Why can put other coolant ?
Has to be the Honda.?
Nope I just buy Honda everything. You can use any QUALITY brand of coolant that is "universal" compatible.
Thanks.
there is not need to jack up the car, I can do it while it's on the ground, less work and less chance of an accident
yes you're right that it can be done that way but I like jacking up the car just a little bit to put the car on a slight upwards angle b/c it helps get the air out of the motor quicker when you're filling it.
I’m pretty sure this year of the Accord is a 2.3L 4-cyl..great video tho!
Yes I made a mistake in my narration and called it a 2.2 liter. My bad - thanks for correcting me.
Its a 2.3 liter from 98-02, not 2.2
yes, thanks for that. I totally caught myself on this one AFTER I published it. I can't believe I made that mistake when I used to work on these cars all day long.
my ac/heater does not blow... would that create a problem?
does not blow as in it moves no air at all? Does it work at ANY fan speed setting? If it only works on max then the blower resistor is blown and needs replacing.
dude it can be opened from above it easier than below the car
true on this particular car but to get a camera into the engine bay wasn't really possible in my case so I just showed it from the bottom view.
Use DISTILLED water if you are to use water.
or deionized water would work too. Just not any tap or well water!
I thought the 4 cal was 2.3L
4 cyl
Yes you're correct, I've worked on all sorts of Honda 2.2, 2.3, 2.4 engines and I may have incorrectly narrated the engine displacement. My bad if I did :(
Yeah, these years used the f23A1 and A4 engines. AKA 2.3 liter.