I'm back, found this video and i understand the board, but I'm overly confused.. buddy who owns flooring company says start on bottom row.. but you mentioned it's antiquated nowadays...
Love the fact that you explained it twice, and told those who got it, to click off now.... clearly you care that the information is being received by the viewer.
I listened to your explanation a few times and it makes sense. I've never tiled before but now I have a lot more confidence to tackle this DIY job based on this video. So thank you for solving my biggest impediment. Trying to cut the bottom row of tiles to fit correctly against the sloping floor.
Another thing you can do is use levels. I'm a tile contractor as well and I have 2,4,5,6 and 8 foot levels I use as ledger boards. As long as you clean them well after using, they work great and are very easy to secure to the wall
This explanation was so easy to understand. Nobody has ever broken it dow this simply. I LOVE how you always give the real LYFE practical reason for why you’re doing what you’re doing. You’re not just like “well my instructor said X so I’ll do that forever without questioning.” Or some guys “paragraph 9 subsection Q of rule 8675309 clearly states you must hop on your left foot while rubbing your tummy and patting your head. Don’t question it. Just do it.”
Actually come back and rewatch these videos over and over of yours and your calm voice and your methodical explanations are always spot on and quite enjoyable to one who enjoys expert professionality. You’re the Holmes on Homes Tile-Guy!!!
Thanks so much for your videos! Why are the supposed "experts" watching your videos and then criticizing you? Some people just love to criticize everyone. I appreciate you and your humble attitude. Please, totally ignore the negative people.
You just critiqued people that criticise. 😂 . It's the way nowadays. All you people, blah blah blah. It's a kind of self serving therapy I guess. Imagine a world where the opposite happened and mostly, only positive reinforcement happened.
I’m thinking about taking out my fiberglass shower, and tile the enclosure including ceiling, watching your videos has given me more courage to try this and do it right, Thank you!
Great video , just layed a new shower floor with round penny size tiles. It is not perfect, and this video solved my problem. Now I can proceed with my wall tile. Thanks for taking your time to do these videos.
By the way your videos are supper helpful. It gives us homeowners to know how things should be done and give us some tools when dealing with contractors.
I found myself looking for answers and confirmation with the correct steps to take with my own bath remodel today. I picked up the phone and called the man himself. Mr. Doyle is a true gentleman, he took the time to answered all my questions in great detail, and even through in a history lesson for good measure! Keep up all the great videos, we learn a lot from them!! Thank you! Doug
I mostly so completly bathroom remodeling here in NewYork. I always use boards and start from second tile up. Laser level all around and then i use 1.5/8 metal track with 2/4 inserted inside. The best method ever. I taught lots of tiler how to do that. Bob i really hope all this time you waste of youtube pays you off somehow. I cannot imagine my self video taping my jobs 😂😂😂
This video was done for a shower, correct? Do you need to take 1/4" off the bottom row tile when installing for a tub surround? It seems like for a tub I should leave space for the length of the whole tile at the bottom + grout lines? Thanks, your channel is so helpful!
Thank you! This makes sense to me. I'm going to use the ledger, but I'll add the level ing clips behind it so when the ledger comes off I can use them to prevent lippage along the bottom row.
To cut in the bottom row simply place a 4mm plastic packer on the floor at the ends where the tile bottom corners will sit . Then position the tile upside down on the packers and mark tight to the under side corners of the above tile. When the tile is cut you have a 2mm spacing plus 2mm gap for silicone where it meets the floor. You can play around with different size packers for different grout widths.
Hi Ed. I have a sloped shower pan five feet long, schluter. This probably wouldn't work because the sides would end up being tilted ? Any suggestions? john m
@@jmack619 It will work, just means the tile at the front will be little bigger than at the back. That is if your drain is at the front instead of in the center. If you're using a large tile, you probably wouldn't even notice.
I went to set my first row last night after setting the pebble floor in pan. I had a level line set but once thinset was troweled couldn’t use it for reference. The ledger makes perfect sense, I’ve watched a lot of your vids, thanks for all the Pro tips, honestly mean that. I aborted first row until I could research topic better and am glad I did, it was getting super aggravating.
I think your video was clear. I pitched a fit on my tile job years ago, wanting a perfect whole tile starting at the bottom. What a trainwreck! I had to fix with a giant grout line, then tore it out and put a 1 inch tile in place of it at the bottom. It looked horrible until last week when I tore out my entire bathroom to remodel, and get it right! I am a female DIY, and all of these videos are very helpful. Thank you.
Used your ledger board recommendation on a DIY rental bathroom rehab. Everything worked well with measurements and pre planning. I screwed myself trying to make the cuts and transition from the tub well to the wall tile outside the tub/shower. My advice, get the proper tools before you start. It makes things much easier. Thanks for the help. Planning on another bathroom rehab later this year. Attempting a one-of-kind niche this time around.
Props to you for giving credit. I’ve watched a lot of tile videos and seems to me the 2 best come out of GA. You and the other guy you mentioned in the video. Thanks for taking the time to make these. They are really helpful.
I always use a ledger board. The other good reason is when your going to carry the same tile to the outside of the shower. I get my dimensions for the first row outside the shower and use the top of that tile to carry my line into the shower area. Works out great. Nice explanation Bob.
Dude, I'm so glad I found your videos! When the shower in my house started leaking I dreaded the unknowns of expense and effort to repair. Doing exploratory demo, I found that the builders of this 1999 single floor home in Mesa, AZ didn't use any waterproofing behind the cultured marble panels that lined the three shower walls (fourth side a glass door, the curb a pre-formed cultured marble piece w/no sealant). Behind that, the drywall (green board, no cement board) was rotted out almost three feet up, and between the piss-poor installation and the aging of the adhesive they didn't use enough of, the panels were only held up by friction. Digging further in, I found that there was no liner, pan, or other water sealing under the mortar bed or around the drain. It was poured straight on the concrete slab, damn the consequences! So when the caulk with a ten to twelve year service life reached 17 years, no surprise that water went everywhere. Financially, the threat of days of contractor labor and material costs was overwhelming, having recently lost my day job, jumping into doing what had always been a hobby as a new business venture, my budget is so tight it makes starving college students seem like such frivolous, wanton spenders. At least, this being Arizona, it dried right out once we stopped using it. Now that I've seen how you handle the mistakes you come across on the job, I've got a realistic appreciation for the scope of what I should do within the context of the project. I'm planning to do about 80% myself, doing everything from demo of the old mortar bed to building a new curb, installing a liner and drain, pouring the new mortar bed, building in new walls (custom niches!) with proper board and fasteners, and waterproofing w/redgard and higher quality caulk. The actual laying of tile I'm thinking of saving for a pro because that's where the smallest mistakes are most visible and where experienced hands guided by a sharp eye can shine. Several of the neighbors are tradespeople (there's an electrician, pipefitter, HVAC tech, and a specialized concrete engineer all on my block), and they've all got one guy who they've always hired for tiling in of their own houses. Thanks in huge part to what you've shared, I have confidence not only that I can do it, but that I will do it right and well within a tolerable budget. That's not a small thing!
I am just getting ready to tile a shower that looks almost exactly the same size and configuration of the one in this video and will be using 12x24 LFT for the first time. This video was a HUGE help and will make my job much less intimidating. Thanks Bob!
Don't worry too much about repeating yourself in your videos. Sometimes people need to her it several times to make it stick! Great vidos. Very helpful.
Starr Tile: I'm from metro Atlanta and am always a little more excited to come across a tile video from where I learned the trade! I admire your cleanliness and overall ambition to be better, constantly learn, and pass along that experience to other tile contractors that are also continually trying to better themselves! That being said, I have a copy suggestions/pointers: 1. If you are screwing a baseboard 🙄 into the wall to be level in a shower you need to come to terms or acknowledge the fact that you are less than perfect or mediocre at mudding a shower floor or preparing a shower floor. Under no circumstances should you have to rely on a piece of wood to be level when you should be fully capable of doing so with concrete, shower floor mud, etc. Raw shower floor, prep, preslope, mudding, and setting the shower floor is definitely a tedious process! But if you didn't know that going into this trade, you were misinformed. Tile installation/custom bathrooms, commercial projects require the installer to be very good at math, geometry, and a whole lot of knowledge gained from experience. If you are truly the best at what you do and carry a great sense of pride, you should never rely on this method. Take more time on your shower floor, figure out your layout ahead of time and consider all factors and possible problems. This is what separates the actual "best" tile company installers/owners from the rest. Pride in your work, a willingness to constantly learn and adapt, and knowing problems you most likely will go through from experience CANNOT be understated. Unless that is the straightest framing known to man, you should also address that before you apply your final waterproof barrier. These kind of things will help you on the higher end jobs who will know just how good you are. And trust me, I would not start out with screwing baseboard into a wall. Always try to be better with mudding and preparing, as I always am too! Other than that, great video! And thank God in heaven you are not one of these schluter shower warriors who talk a bunch of game after watching a few videos and think they can do what most of us watching this kind of video does! P.S. can you please send some good BBQ, fried chicken, or seafood up here to Minnesota????
THX. I have a question that is sort of unrelated. I am doing a 9 x 5 bathroom. I had to deal with warped joists, cut out joists, joists that did NOT sit on the center wall and moved as you walked and alternate crowns. I clamped and glued/screwed the joists over the center wall to make them steady. I sistered the butchered joists and while at it added another to the inside - getting my 1/4 inch per foot at the same time. Then because of threshold to the next room - I sunk the 3/4 inch plywood in between the joists onto the sistered joists that OI has sloped - giving me a terribly strong floor and no increase in threshold to the next room. It is nicely sloped to a 48-inch drain. It is terribly uneven over the short-haul but right on the money over the long haul. I planned to put a finishing layer of 3/4 plywood over it all. Can I use thin-set over the lower level to support the upper 3/4 inch plywood in those short-haul imperfections?? My thought was to spread the thin-set, and then screw down the upper layer til its level, starting in the middle. I'm ONLY looking for 1/8 - 3/16 fill. THX again.
Thanks for this. I did this on my own and thought it was an amateur hack until I saw this vid. I just used it again as I didn’t trust my baseboards as a guide. I don’t know if there is an official ledger board tool, but I found mdf baseboard works great as it seems to usually have a better edge as it’s manufactured.
wow bob simply amazing been doing it wrong all my life thank for taking the time to make this vid I live in Marietta myself I know your bust as hell but I need a good tile guy to help us with all our reno projects we work from buckhead to east cobb
Made sense to me....I am carpenter but have laid tile this way since first day....just made sense to use ledger board from previous construction knowledge
Hardi plank split in half is the best ledger board I've found to use it's very straight it'll hold a huge load and it's the perfect thickness , enough to catch the tile but doesn't protrude out past the tile that helps for a few reasons . 👌
A little tip when installing those accent tiles that come on fabric: get them cut to the length you want then lay them on a tile or something flat and grout them with thinset then take a brush and wipe the grooves and put a fan on it to dry it. It locks them in place and prevents the morter from pushing through.
I did not understand what you were trying to say. I understand the concept just thought your delivery was confusing. Since I appreciate your effort for carving out time to try and help us learn I subscribed. Don't be offended, was just being honest.
Eliyyah Silva I think it might have helped if he actually did it while explaining it. Or at least use an actual 12” tile as an example. Using a cut 6” tile didn’t make any sense at all in trying to tell you what to do with 12” tile. I didn’t understand a thing either.
Hi Starr thanks for the video it's very helpful - zero tile exp. here. I have a Question...given my situation (below) do I need a ledger board? Prewar building bath to be tiled, the walls have no studs and no convenient way to attach a ledger board. In any event, the wall I am starting with is the long side of tub (porcelain) wall. The porcelain tub is 100% perfectly flat and level, i.e. the long edge of one side of the tub. The wall is flat/plumb. I figured as such I would effectively use the tub edge as the ledger board...and tile up towards the ceiling. Notably, the ceiling/wall corner is *not* level, with a difference of ~.5 inch between the left and right corners. The tub is staying, and will be trimmed to the bottom tile accordingly for water tightness etc. To that end I envision tiling up to top and cutting that last row to fit with the trim I'm using. So, is this a prudent plan - do I need a ledger board when using one would be its own issue anyway due to the prewar wall construction? I've confirmed three ways to Sunday that the 'tub edge' is true, flat, and level. I appreciate your thoughts if you have time to do so I'm sure you're busy and that's a-ok too! Thx again for the video it is a treasure trove for someone (me) with zero as in zero tile knowledge. I have to start somewhere however!
I think you are spot on, using the tub as a ledger since it's true is fine, remember small spacers at the bottom. To the sides I try to get full pieces in there, but if dealing with un-true walls at the corners, start full in the middle working your way out & trim left/right tiles to form with walls...ceiling part use a tad larger spacing going up to ceiling to take up that .5 if possible, assuming grout blends with color of tile, you'll hardly notice. You sound like you have more of an engineer hat than I do so you'll be fine...GOOD LUCK !
Thanks much Starr...I've decided that even though (amazingly) the walls are true all the way up, to start from middle and work the ~30 inches towards each wall corner (i.e. towards the walls at the 'spigot' and 'foot' ends of the tub). That's my approach because in my thinking, 1) it will create the same 'last tile' width on each side, and 2) also provide symmetry as you look at that wall which is in direct line of sight upon entering the bath door. Your idea about slightly greater spacing going up on the higher side is a good one and since I am doing the tiles vertically, won't be noticeable. On both the sides and 'top' corners (wall/wall; wall/wall; wall/ceiling) I am using a bit of a 'different' trim method I've concocted to provide (I hope!) a bit of design flair at the same time negating my need to miter any corner tiles which is way beyond my tiling paygrade at this newb stage of my journey (I've a small wet saw and have perfected straight normal cuts...baby steps!). And that method I sense will either work marvelously, or alternatively, go down in flames just as grandly and if so well I'll still learn from it and start again! Thanks again for your videos really very helpful!
Would this be the same technique used for prefabricated shower pans ? Or just for custom showers , reason being prefab shower bases already have a straight edge on them , wouldn’t making sure the pan is level suffice ? Thus allowing me to start my first row on the very bottom .
I have a question, if I may be so bold? I have been tasked with straightening out a hack job a family member had done. The tub enclosure is done in new 4X6 white subway tile. The person who did the job started his first row 1 inch above the bathtub. sad part besides having to fix this mess is the top tile (against the ceiling) has been cut to fit between the next to last row and ceiling. Had he started the bottom row correctly, the top tile may not have even needed cutting. Even if it had been, it would have been so little, I doubt it would have been noticed. Now to my solution for you to consider is removing the bottom row of tile, buying 6X6 tile and cut them to a height that will fill the void and reach the top of the tub. I know he put durock and redgard behind the tile. Secondly, what adhesive should I use for the bottom row when reinstalling? Thanks in advance.
I have a pile of old, out of level spirit levels and unistrut on my van, all different lengths. I use these as my battens (ledger board) which i simply sit on top of bits of timber, brick, anything that's laying around. Use a laser level to get them level and I'm off. try not to use timber as its more often than not bent! Been doing it this way for 30 years and its my quick preferred method to get going. Also here in the UK, not sure if you have them in the us, are 'tile batten stands', same method as mine more or less, just purpose made. Bit pricey though I think.
Thanks a lot for your videos. I learn a lot from you, as a diy-er, currently doing my bathroom.. first time.. 2 questions: 1) for tiling floors, how perfectly level does it have to be? I did self levelling compound, but ran thin on one end .. by 1/8th off level. You think i can make that up with thinset? 2) you think self leveling systems would make it easier? Thank you again, appreciate your videos greatly!
Yes you can definitely make it up with thinset. Self leveling systems are meant for the tile, not the prep, prep still needs to be good...imagine a perfectly flat & level floor, the leveling system would STILL be used, it's for the tile.
@ 8:28 What's the point of the ledger board if your putting shims under your tiles.....why didn't you just lay them on the ledger since you leveled it off at the height you wanted?
The ledger board does two things, it makes it possible to run your tile all the way up to the ceiling if you wanted to on day one, and it also serves the purpose of having all your bottom tile match up exactly to your floor, the shims have to be there for spacing
@@zeke112964 although the ledger board maybe level, tile or not all cut the same unless they are rectified so they're still manipulation that has to go on with every row
Tile Master GA has more years experience and a better understanding of the process. StarrTile even said he learned how to properly use a ledger board from TMGA.
@@StarrTile ah ok awesome. Thank you for being so active in the comments, I really appreciate it. I'm a welder not a renovator, so this is all very helpful. I've done a bit of work here and there but this project I definitely needed help with. Expect a sub on patreon or something in the near future when I get all that settled monetarily haha, you've been super helpful.
Another great video ... exactly how i did my bathroom .. Not Being very good with mesurements , I used a med size black marky on above each side of tile then went up the wall using the black marker as the grout line to the top to make sure it would end perfect. No cutting on top ... all cuts on bottom .. Yea overkill but i wanted to make sure with the grout lines .. didnt want to get to the top and find out i screwed up .. On another subject , If your going to tile your entire home .. where is the best place to start ? Hall way ? Kitchen ? living room ? Or does it not matter ...
I normally start at where it's seen first/most...at entrance. Plus door ways are normally the highest point. But you must know if there are high spots in other areas, it will kill your job if you don't.
will add plenty of thin set to make sure to cover the un even places ... one more trouble spot but will send pictures later ... thanx for youR ADVICE .!
Thank you.....first timer doing a kitchen backsplash and the counter top isn't level...I wasn't sure how to overcome that and now I know.... ledger board.
If you have a niche you'll want to lay your tile out on the floor first, use your spacers to know exact grout lines, then mark that on a straight edge. Centre your grout lines around the niche and this determines where the ledger board goes.
You would be assuming that both your shower pan and your tile on the pan or exactly level, should that be the case on all four sides then you are correct you would not need a ledger board
Thank you for the reply. I love your videos.👍 unless you have a perfect square shower pan" all 4 sides are equal " the pan will be leveled 2in from the wall=> no need for the ledger board. As i floated my pan today 60x30 in, no way you will get leveled 15in from the drain. You will end up with a flat \/ from the center. 1/4 in per 1ft is not ideal for 15in slope. Then, if your shower is long, you may need 5/8 per ft. I think YOUR LEDGER BOARD IS A MUST in this scenario. AND 12in - 1/2in = 11in gap from the pan is perfect. Experience is gold and you have it.
Maybe you could set your video camera on a halogen light stand because I'm getting dizzy watching you! Also music is a loud but your You Tube is awesome and I really appreciate all the insight you have shown us. I've just learned about the ledger. Great Call!!!
Great video Bob. Thx. Can you comment on setting the ledger bd influenced by the ceiling height? So you don’t end up with too small of a row at the top. You didn’t seem to cover this. I can see how it might cause you to reduce the size of the bottom row in some cases. Thx
You have to measure and find the center of the wall first . Dry fit the tile with pencil marks. Some people want the tile dimensions to be the same at top and bottom .
Can I set my tile in my final mortar bed? A 12x24 tile with 6 in.in the pan and 6in. On the the wall? Then start you rows. Or would the mortar string and Crack the tile in the mortar?
@@StarrTile yes, ty. My thought was , set my cement board 4 inches above ground, then set a tile into the pan, half in the mortar pan, half out the mortar pan onto the cement board, acting as a type of ledger for my first row if tile. In doing that also ensures no gap from ground to wall, since you shouldn't put your cement board in your mortar pan. So basically instead of the cement board in the pan, you put tile around the bottom.
@@joshuaallen5453 the tile should never be touching the mortar, regardless... Even at my final bottom row the tile never quite touches the floor tile because it has a grout line there. I suppose you could do it your way without an issue but I don't think I'd be willing to experiment
You did Not confuse me, but is a 1/8 inch gap, or any gap necessary for grouting? Or can you but the tile "chipped travertine" against each other. Thanks.
Hi, thank you for your videos. Though I am stuck on a few things... Do you fill the void between floor tile and Durock with anything ? If not, when grouting would the grout not go straight through gap. Also do you caulk where wall tile meets floor? do you leave a gap to accommodate? Sorry if i have missed the advice on previous videos... Thanks again. Andy
The void gets tile up to the liner, all tile is grouted...you could caulk where gap is but Redgard is painted in there also so a bit redundant. Once floor tile is set it's grouted and wall tile set....not sure I answered your question, thought it was clear on the video. ua-cam.com/video/cNLaNE2h9H8/v-deo.html That video might help...
I thought you are supposed to caulk, not grout, where the wall tiles meet the floor tiles? Wouldn't grout destroy the purpose of leaving 1/4" spacing for the hardibacker?
Question. If the other way of measuring and cutting the bottom took an hour and a half but you could tile the entire day, doesn’t that save more time than using the ledger board and then letting the above layer dry then having to tile the bottom layer?
I think the point is that you can't continue tiling much past the first row when you start with it, because it will need to cure enough to not budge if bumped (Remember this is going to be your reference for the rest of the tile job). It's a tradeoff between being able to knock out most of the work sooner, or put in a short workday in the middle of the job, then return to knock out the remaining later. Either way, you still have to split up the job over at least a few days, but most beginners or DIYers will likely appreciate the psychological boost and reward seeing quick early progress. An added bonus is that (speaking from my own DIY experiences) it's nice to get more progress before having to make yet another run to the store to get more _________, so one will often have a more complete shopping list by the time the next parts run happens...
I love your videos. I stumbled across you, while researching how to do a shower properly after a guy butchered a job on my mom's place. I think my friend and I still made a few errors, but I am hoping it won't matter as much, being that we live in Arizona and it is very dry. We didn't redguard our tile backer board, used that gypsum diamond pattern backer board, and a precast acrylic shower pan. We used tile rated impervious to water, and grout that is supposed to be epoxy based water proof grout that doesn't need to be sealed. If you don't mind answering, have you any experience with that Fusion Pro grout sold at the home despot, and if it is as waterproof as the claims?
Fusion is awful!! I've had the displeasure of using that garbage many times as Home Depot forces it on unwitting customers. It is just paint and sand mixed together. There are numerous Fusion grout failures, a quick Google search will reveal many instances of it simply washing down the drain. Considing it stays in solution of Ethylene Glycol water, and what smells like latex, dumped onto lawns to enter the water table, it think it's an environmental disaster. Per the manufacture's instructions, the waster used in cleanup, is @ 11-12 x that of cement based grout. Fusion dries through solvent evaporation, ie shrinkage, grout lines are never as full as they were at the completion of the installation. Be sure to take your contaminated waste water to your cities local hazardous waste recycling center ( mine doesn't have one, neither do the other 4 surrounding towns) this is the advice of CBP, the manufacturer. Or just contaminate your local drinking water. A good size tile job can produce or 1000 gallons of contaminated water. I can't say enough bad things about this awful product.
Nice... Method and explanation. How about an installation of 3X6 subway wall tile where the bottom course is a tile base mold and the change is floor level is 3/4" over 4'. I would imagine you would let the base mold course follow the floor level. Then would you take out the entire 3/4" over the 2nd course OR would you take out a 1/8" per course over the next 6 courses (1/8 X 6 = 3/4)? Yes, its a lot of work to take it out over 6 courses but would it produce a better-looking installation?
What type of thinset are you using over the redguard? Can you use a modified or must you use an unmodified? I know Schluter says you must use unmodified over their water proof membranes.
Shouldn’t the outside perimeter of shower floor be perfectly level ? and everything pitched towards the drain from that point that ,there shouldn’t be any variations in tile width on bottom course
Let me tell you, I have watched a huge number of videos on tiles. I learn mostly from reading the comments. Most of what I do not like is how all the tile jobs are done under perfect conditions. I like these videos because he is for real. He may not have learned from someone, he may not follow the books, but he is a real guy on real jobs. Real.world application is much different than guidelines in a book. It burns me up the way guys throw hissy fits when something is not done to the letter of the law. Methods change, materials change, and the skills of the average pro change. People do ot want.to pay for a guy to spend any extra time on a job that will be torn out in 5 years.
at the ledger board..if you are using a LASH system how do you do it under the ledger board? I guess it;s one of those things you can't do? or maybe leave an un-thinseted spot under the first tile to slip the level piece under afterwards? thanks for the help man..love the vids
Struckus yeah you could figure out something in order to make it work but honestly I don't think it's really necessary for that last row of tile, there is going to be maybe 5 to 6 only anyway
With my 4x16 white glazed tile. Is it acceptable looking to cut the bottom edge off ? The face of the tile has a rounded edge slightly in the glaze, wouldn't i want to keep that
If all four sides of your shower are square and level then you don't need to cut but it is rare where you can get to that point, I would still give it about an eighth of an inch wiggle room even if that means cutting off the factory Edge by eighth of an inch all the way around
You need to be able to calculate from floor to ceiling the height plus grout lines to figure out how many rows it'll take you... it doesn't need to be a full tile at the bottom, you could cut that in half or however the math works out so you have an equal tile at bottom and top if a sliver cut is a possibility
Hi thank you for the video you explained yourself well. It looks very easy that with a straight line. I just have one question the bottom of the tile where it meets the floor does grout go in that seem or do you use caulk ?
If I’m installing a chevron patterned tile, so there’s no flat bottom to sit on a ledger and the wall is not in a shower so the floor is flat will I have any issue cutting the bottom row flat and sitting on 1/16 shims and tiling all the way up to the ceiling in one shot?
If I were you because I think their sheets you were talking about I would run those sheets through a tile saw and get rid of the points, however if you did it your way I would probably use an 16th-inch strip of wood or strips of cardboard rather than individual spacers. And I would probably only do one sheet or two if they are sheets, clean off the outside edges really well and then continue the next day so that you'll have something definitive to set them on that is sturdy because they might have a tendency of bunching up overnight if you stack all that weight on them.
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StarrTile annoying music! Had to mute!
Tiling a composite shower pan would be even easier you wouldn't need to really worry too much about running short at the bottom
@MegaSkilla l)
I'm back, found this video and i understand the board, but I'm overly confused.. buddy who owns flooring company says start on bottom row.. but you mentioned it's antiquated nowadays...
Love the fact that you explained it twice, and told those who got it, to click off now.... clearly you care that the information is being received by the viewer.
I can’t tell you enough how appreciative we are for all the work you do in sharing these videos with us. I look forward to your videos in action.
I listened to your explanation a few times and it makes sense. I've never tiled before but now I have a lot more confidence to tackle this DIY job based on this video. So thank you for solving my biggest impediment. Trying to cut the bottom row of tiles to fit correctly against the sloping floor.
Agreed
Another thing you can do is use levels. I'm a tile contractor as well and I have 2,4,5,6 and 8 foot levels I use as ledger boards. As long as you clean them well after using, they work great and are very easy to secure to the wall
This explanation was so easy to understand. Nobody has ever broken it dow this simply. I LOVE how you always give the real LYFE practical reason for why you’re doing what you’re doing. You’re not just like “well my instructor said X so I’ll do that forever without questioning.” Or some guys “paragraph 9 subsection Q of rule 8675309 clearly states you must hop on your left foot while rubbing your tummy and patting your head. Don’t question it. Just do it.”
Actually come back and rewatch these videos over and over of yours and your calm voice and your methodical explanations are always spot on and quite enjoyable to one who enjoys expert professionality.
You’re the Holmes on Homes Tile-Guy!!!
Thanks so much for your videos! Why are the supposed "experts" watching your videos and then criticizing you? Some people just love to criticize everyone. I appreciate you and your humble attitude. Please, totally ignore the negative people.
You just critiqued people that criticise. 😂 . It's the way nowadays. All you people, blah blah blah. It's a kind of self serving therapy I guess. Imagine a world where the opposite happened and mostly, only positive reinforcement happened.
I’m thinking about taking out my fiberglass shower, and tile the enclosure including ceiling, watching your videos has given me more courage to try this and do it right, Thank you!
ceilings scare me, i havent done one yet. I would need all the knowledge first hand
Great video , just layed a new shower floor with round penny size tiles. It is not perfect, and this video solved my problem. Now I can proceed with my wall tile. Thanks for taking your time to do these videos.
By the way your videos are supper helpful. It gives us homeowners to know how things should be done and give us some tools when dealing with contractors.
I found myself looking for answers and confirmation with the correct steps to take with my own bath remodel today. I picked up the phone and called the man himself. Mr. Doyle is a true gentleman, he took the time to answered all my questions in great detail, and even through in a history lesson for good measure!
Keep up all the great videos, we learn a lot from them!!
Thank you!
Doug
I mostly so completly bathroom remodeling here in NewYork. I always use boards and start from second tile up. Laser level all around and then i use 1.5/8 metal track with 2/4 inserted inside. The best method ever. I taught lots of tiler how to do that. Bob i really hope all this time you waste of youtube pays you off somehow. I cannot imagine my self video taping my jobs 😂😂😂
This video was done for a shower, correct? Do you need to take 1/4" off the bottom row tile when installing for a tub surround? It seems like for a tub I should leave space for the length of the whole tile at the bottom + grout lines? Thanks, your channel is so helpful!
Thank you very much for your time and help
You have a blessing day
Felipe from El Paso tx
Thank you! This makes sense to me. I'm going to use the ledger, but I'll add the level ing clips behind it so when the ledger comes off I can use them to prevent lippage along the bottom row.
To cut in the bottom row simply place a 4mm plastic packer on the floor at the ends where the tile bottom corners will sit . Then position the tile upside down on the packers and mark tight to the under side corners of the above tile. When the tile is cut you have a 2mm spacing plus 2mm gap for silicone where it meets the floor.
You can play around with different size packers for different grout widths.
Thank you for the explanation! I understand now. I asked what this was before on another video but then found this! Thank you again!
I swear by ledger boards, I use them all the time. The way you explained it is exactly the way I do it. Been doing it for 12 years.
Hi Ed. I have a sloped shower pan five feet long, schluter. This probably wouldn't work because the sides would end up being tilted ? Any suggestions?
john m
@@jmack619 It will work, just means the tile at the front will be little bigger than at the back. That is if your drain is at the front instead of in the center. If you're using a large tile, you probably wouldn't even notice.
@@edwardhofer2429 Thank you Edward. The linear drain is at one end, so the Schluter pan has about 1 1/4 " slope , over 5 feet.
I went to set my first row last night after setting the pebble floor in pan. I had a level line set but once thinset was troweled couldn’t use it for reference. The ledger makes perfect sense, I’ve watched a lot of your vids, thanks for all the Pro tips, honestly mean that. I aborted first row until I could research topic better and am glad I did, it was getting super aggravating.
I think your video was clear. I pitched a fit on my tile job years ago, wanting a perfect whole tile starting at the bottom. What a trainwreck! I had to fix with a giant grout line, then tore it out and put a 1 inch tile in place of it at the bottom. It looked horrible until last week when I tore out my entire bathroom to remodel, and get it right! I am a female DIY, and all of these videos are very helpful. Thank you.
thats so hot
Used your ledger board recommendation on a DIY rental bathroom rehab. Everything worked well with measurements and pre planning. I screwed myself trying to make the cuts and transition from the tub well to the wall tile outside the tub/shower. My advice, get the proper tools before you start. It makes things much easier. Thanks for the help. Planning on another bathroom rehab later this year. Attempting a one-of-kind niche this time around.
This is the first video I watched that helped my actually understand the process, thanks a lot!
Props to you for giving credit.
I’ve watched a lot of tile videos and seems to me the 2 best come out of GA. You and the other guy you mentioned in the video.
Thanks for taking the time to make these. They are really helpful.
I always use a ledger board. The other good reason is when your going to carry the same tile to the outside of the shower. I get my dimensions for the first row outside the shower and use the top of that tile to carry my line into the shower area. Works out great. Nice explanation Bob.
Thank You
Insightful. Love your background music choice
I have watched ton of videos about wall tile and this was simple and informative. Thank you. Now to my daughter's bathroom shower wall.
Your explanation was clear and through. Not too hard to follow. It's just like doing a floating floor with how you turn the tiles over to measure.
I accidentally tied a noose around my neck while that music was playing - thank god for pause buttons to regain my composure...
Dude, I'm so glad I found your videos! When the shower in my house started leaking I dreaded the unknowns of expense and effort to repair. Doing exploratory demo, I found that the builders of this 1999 single floor home in Mesa, AZ didn't use any waterproofing behind the cultured marble panels that lined the three shower walls (fourth side a glass door, the curb a pre-formed cultured marble piece w/no sealant). Behind that, the drywall (green board, no cement board) was rotted out almost three feet up, and between the piss-poor installation and the aging of the adhesive they didn't use enough of, the panels were only held up by friction. Digging further in, I found that there was no liner, pan, or other water sealing under the mortar bed or around the drain. It was poured straight on the concrete slab, damn the consequences! So when the caulk with a ten to twelve year service life reached 17 years, no surprise that water went everywhere. Financially, the threat of days of contractor labor and material costs was overwhelming, having recently lost my day job, jumping into doing what had always been a hobby as a new business venture, my budget is so tight it makes starving college students seem like such frivolous, wanton spenders. At least, this being Arizona, it dried right out once we stopped using it.
Now that I've seen how you handle the mistakes you come across on the job, I've got a realistic appreciation for the scope of what I should do within the context of the project. I'm planning to do about 80% myself, doing everything from demo of the old mortar bed to building a new curb, installing a liner and drain, pouring the new mortar bed, building in new walls (custom niches!) with proper board and fasteners, and waterproofing w/redgard and higher quality caulk. The actual laying of tile I'm thinking of saving for a pro because that's where the smallest mistakes are most visible and where experienced hands guided by a sharp eye can shine. Several of the neighbors are tradespeople (there's an electrician, pipefitter, HVAC tech, and a specialized concrete engineer all on my block), and they've all got one guy who they've always hired for tiling in of their own houses. Thanks in huge part to what you've shared, I have confidence not only that I can do it, but that I will do it right and well within a tolerable budget. That's not a small thing!
I am just getting ready to tile a shower that looks almost exactly the same size and configuration of the one in this video and will be using 12x24 LFT for the first time. This video was a HUGE help and will make my job much less intimidating. Thanks Bob!
You're most welcome ;-)
This was presented clearly, start to finish in a manner this DIY'er can not only feell confidnece that ihis is something that can be done!
Do you need to consider using a ledger board on a shower pan wall tile install? Seems the shower pan is level.
Never trust a pan! There'll be something that throws your level and bugs you 9 times out of 10
Don't worry too much about repeating yourself in your videos. Sometimes people need to her it several times to make it stick! Great vidos. Very helpful.
Thanks---------------------------------------------------------------------
Starr Tile: I'm from metro Atlanta and am always a little more excited to come across a tile video from where I learned the trade!
I admire your cleanliness and overall ambition to be better, constantly learn, and pass along that experience to other tile contractors that are also continually trying to better themselves!
That being said, I have a copy suggestions/pointers:
1. If you are screwing a baseboard 🙄 into the wall to be level in a shower you need to come to terms or acknowledge the fact that you are less than perfect or mediocre at mudding a shower floor or preparing a shower floor. Under no circumstances should you have to rely on a piece of wood to be level when you should be fully capable of doing so with concrete, shower floor mud, etc.
Raw shower floor, prep, preslope, mudding, and setting the shower floor is definitely a tedious process! But if you didn't know that going into this trade, you were misinformed. Tile installation/custom bathrooms, commercial projects require the installer to be very good at math, geometry, and a whole lot of knowledge gained from experience.
If you are truly the best at what you do and carry a great sense of pride, you should never rely on this method. Take more time on your shower floor, figure out your layout ahead of time and consider all factors and possible problems.
This is what separates the actual "best" tile company installers/owners from the rest.
Pride in your work, a willingness to constantly learn and adapt, and knowing problems you most likely will go through from experience CANNOT be understated.
Unless that is the straightest framing known to man, you should also address that before you apply your final waterproof barrier.
These kind of things will help you on the higher end jobs who will know just how good you are. And trust me, I would not start out with screwing baseboard into a wall. Always try to be better with mudding and preparing, as I always am too!
Other than that, great video! And thank God in heaven you are not one of these schluter shower warriors who talk a bunch of game after watching a few videos and think they can do what most of us watching this kind of video does!
P.S. can you please send some good BBQ, fried chicken, or seafood up here to Minnesota????
I will send you some barbecue if you guys stop voting for lunatic, liberal freaking Democrats into political office!
THX. I have a question that is sort of unrelated.
I am doing a 9 x 5 bathroom. I had to deal with warped joists, cut out joists, joists that did NOT sit on the center wall and moved as you walked and alternate crowns.
I clamped and glued/screwed the joists over the center wall to make them steady. I sistered the butchered joists and while at it added another to the inside - getting my 1/4 inch per foot at the same time.
Then because of threshold to the next room - I sunk the 3/4 inch plywood in between the joists onto the sistered joists that OI has sloped - giving me a terribly strong floor and no increase in threshold to the next room.
It is nicely sloped to a 48-inch drain. It is terribly uneven over the short-haul but right on the money over the long haul.
I planned to put a finishing layer of 3/4 plywood over it all.
Can I use thin-set over the lower level to support the upper 3/4 inch plywood in those short-haul imperfections?? My thought was to spread the thin-set, and then screw down the upper layer til its level, starting in the middle. I'm ONLY looking for 1/8 - 3/16 fill.
THX again.
This is very helpful. Good job. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for this. I did this on my own and thought it was an amateur hack until I saw this vid. I just used it again as I didn’t trust my baseboards as a guide. I don’t know if there is an official ledger board tool, but I found mdf baseboard works great as it seems to usually have a better edge as it’s manufactured.
So you added the 1/4 " to the cut marks you made to accommodate for groute line? Thanks for the great information 👍
wow bob simply amazing been doing it wrong all my life thank for taking the time to make this vid I live in Marietta myself I know your bust as hell but I need a good tile guy to help us with all our reno projects we work from buckhead to east cobb
Thanks for the vid!!! Good job... done some tile... i will use this next time i do some!!! This is pretty cool
Ledger board is so smart much easier at the end to get your angle so smart you are I started do that a few years ago great job 👍
Made sense to me....I am carpenter but have laid tile this way since first day....just made sense to use ledger board from previous construction knowledge
Hardi plank split in half is the best ledger board I've found to use it's very straight it'll hold a huge load and it's the perfect thickness , enough to catch the tile but doesn't protrude out past the tile that helps for a few reasons . 👌
Excellent Bob.
Extremely helpful
So if the tile is 12 inches tall you put the ledger board at 11” 3/4? And then mark your line on the tile at the bottom of the board?
A little tip when installing those accent tiles that come on fabric: get them cut to the length you want then lay them on a tile or something flat and grout them with thinset then take a brush and wipe the grooves and put a fan on it to dry it. It locks them in place and prevents the morter from pushing through.
I did not understand what you were trying to say. I understand the concept just thought your delivery was confusing. Since I appreciate your effort for carving out time to try and help us learn I subscribed. Don't be offended, was just being honest.
Eliyyah Silva I think it might have helped if he actually did it while explaining it. Or at least use an actual 12” tile as an example. Using a cut 6” tile didn’t make any sense at all in trying to tell you what to do with 12” tile. I didn’t understand a thing either.
Thanks for providing a visual after your explanation. You explained it very well, however, the visual made everything sink in.
Hi Starr thanks for the video it's very helpful - zero tile exp. here. I have a Question...given my situation (below) do I need a ledger board?
Prewar building bath to be tiled, the walls have no studs and no convenient way to attach a ledger board. In any event, the wall I am starting with is the long side of tub (porcelain) wall. The porcelain tub is 100% perfectly flat and level, i.e. the long edge of one side of the tub. The wall is flat/plumb. I figured as such I would effectively use the tub edge as the ledger board...and tile up towards the ceiling. Notably, the ceiling/wall corner is *not* level, with a difference of ~.5 inch between the left and right corners. The tub is staying, and will be trimmed to the bottom tile accordingly for water tightness etc.
To that end I envision tiling up to top and cutting that last row to fit with the trim I'm using. So, is this a prudent plan - do I need a ledger board when using one would be its own issue anyway due to the prewar wall construction? I've confirmed three ways to Sunday that the 'tub edge' is true, flat, and level. I appreciate your thoughts if you have time to do so I'm sure you're busy and that's a-ok too! Thx again for the video it is a treasure trove for someone (me) with zero as in zero tile knowledge. I have to start somewhere however!
I think you are spot on, using the tub as a ledger since it's true is fine, remember small spacers at the bottom. To the sides I try to get full pieces in there, but if dealing with un-true walls at the corners, start full in the middle working your way out & trim left/right tiles to form with walls...ceiling part use a tad larger spacing going up to ceiling to take up that .5 if possible, assuming grout blends with color of tile, you'll hardly notice.
You sound like you have more of an engineer hat than I do so you'll be fine...GOOD LUCK !
Thanks much Starr...I've decided that even though (amazingly) the walls are true all the way up, to start from middle and work the ~30 inches towards each wall corner (i.e. towards the walls at the 'spigot' and 'foot' ends of the tub). That's my approach because in my thinking, 1) it will create the same 'last tile' width on each side, and 2) also provide symmetry as you look at that wall which is in direct line of sight upon entering the bath door. Your idea about slightly greater spacing going up on the higher side is a good one and since I am doing the tiles vertically, won't be noticeable. On both the sides and 'top' corners (wall/wall; wall/wall; wall/ceiling) I am using a bit of a 'different' trim method I've concocted to provide (I hope!) a bit of design flair at the same time negating my need to miter any corner tiles which is way beyond my tiling paygrade at this newb stage of my journey (I've a small wet saw and have perfected straight normal cuts...baby steps!). And that method I sense will either work marvelously, or alternatively, go down in flames just as grandly and if so well I'll still learn from it and start again!
Thanks again for your videos really very helpful!
Upside down and backwards. (Or, inside-out.)
This is very helpful. Thanks!
Most helpful to this newbie. Thanks. How would you use leveling clips on the bottom of the row of LFT that sits on the ledger?
We have been using this method for years now. After using this method i would never go back to starting off any floor.
RIGHT! Me too
Also stops you working on a floor that’s just been tiled...
Would this be the same technique used for prefabricated shower pans ? Or just for custom showers , reason being prefab shower bases already have a straight edge on them , wouldn’t making sure the pan is level suffice ? Thus allowing me to start my first row on the very bottom .
Yes if your prefab pan is level which it should be in your floor is level which it should be then there's no sense in doing a ledger board
I have a question, if I may be so bold? I have been tasked with straightening out a hack job a family member had done. The tub enclosure is done in new 4X6 white subway tile. The person who did the job started his first row 1 inch above the bathtub. sad part besides having to fix this mess is the top tile (against the ceiling) has been cut to fit between the next to last row and ceiling. Had he started the bottom row correctly, the top tile may not have even needed cutting. Even if it had been, it would have been so little, I doubt it would have been noticed. Now to my solution for you to consider is removing the bottom row of tile, buying 6X6 tile and cut them to a height that will fill the void and reach the top of the tub. I know he put durock and redgard behind the tile. Secondly, what adhesive should I use for the bottom row when reinstalling? Thanks in advance.
Your solution sounds good to me.
Use thinset, not adhesvie.
I've used 1x2 aluminum used in screen rooms with good results. was able to reuse it a few times as well. dead straight and stiff.
I have a pile of old, out of level spirit levels and unistrut on my van, all different lengths. I use these as my battens (ledger board) which i simply sit on top of bits of timber, brick, anything that's laying around. Use a laser level to get them level and I'm off. try not to use timber as its more often than not bent! Been doing it this way for 30 years and its my quick preferred method to get going. Also here in the UK, not sure if you have them in the us, are 'tile batten stands', same method as mine more or less, just purpose made. Bit pricey though I think.
Good advice, thanks !
I couldn't tell in this video but when you cut tile do you take the line right out or do you cut on one side of it like you would with wood
The tile gets marked backwards on the edge, then that line is transferred to the front and cut at the front
Thanks a lot for your videos. I learn a lot from you, as a diy-er, currently doing my bathroom.. first time.. 2 questions: 1) for tiling floors, how perfectly level does it have to be? I did self levelling compound, but ran thin on one end .. by 1/8th off level. You think i can make that up with thinset? 2) you think self leveling systems would make it easier? Thank you again, appreciate your videos greatly!
Yes you can definitely make it up with thinset. Self leveling systems are meant for the tile, not the prep, prep still needs to be good...imagine a perfectly flat & level floor, the leveling system would STILL be used, it's for the tile.
@ 8:28 What's the point of the ledger board if your putting shims under your tiles.....why didn't you just lay them on the ledger since you leveled it off at the height you wanted?
The ledger board does two things, it makes it possible to run your tile all the way up to the ceiling if you wanted to on day one, and it also serves the purpose of having all your bottom tile match up exactly to your floor, the shims have to be there for spacing
@@StarrTile Why do you use shims on the ledger board if it's level and you're cutting your first row the next day?
@@zeke112964 although the ledger board maybe level, tile or not all cut the same unless they are rectified so they're still manipulation that has to go on with every row
Hands down your the best tile guy on UA-cam
Thank You !
Tile Master GA has more years experience and a better understanding of the process. StarrTile even said he learned how to properly use a ledger board from TMGA.
Agreed
Sal diblasi is pretty good.
Could you use double sided tape instead of the screws and remove the board and leave the leftover tape there after you're done?
Probably not...the tape wouldn't hold the weight of the tiles and probably damage the redgard
@@StarrTile ah ok awesome. Thank you for being so active in the comments, I really appreciate it. I'm a welder not a renovator, so this is all very helpful. I've done a bit of work here and there but this project I definitely needed help with. Expect a sub on patreon or something in the near future when I get all that settled monetarily haha, you've been super helpful.
Another great video ... exactly how i did my bathroom .. Not Being very good with mesurements , I used a med size black marky on above each side of tile then went up the wall using the black marker as the grout line to the top to make sure it would end perfect. No cutting on top ... all cuts on bottom .. Yea overkill but i wanted to make sure with the grout lines .. didnt want to get to the top and find out i screwed up .. On another subject , If your going to tile your entire home .. where is the best place to start ? Hall way ? Kitchen ? living room ? Or does it not matter ...
I normally start at where it's seen first/most...at entrance. Plus door ways are normally the highest point.
But you must know if there are high spots in other areas, it will kill your job if you don't.
will add plenty of thin set to make sure to cover the un even places ... one more trouble spot but will send pictures later ... thanx for youR ADVICE .!
What's the make/model of the tile cutter?
Thank you.....first timer doing a kitchen backsplash and the counter top isn't level...I wasn't sure how to overcome that and now I know.... ledger board.
So, do you cut to the inside of the line taking the blade thickness to allow for joints. I think that's what I'm seeing.
Seems like he is not marking the grout thickness on the tile.
If you have a niche you'll want to lay your tile out on the floor first, use your spacers to know exact grout lines, then mark that on a straight edge. Centre your grout lines around the niche and this determines where the ledger board goes.
Question: if you level your shower pan 2 in from the wall all around then work your slope, why you need the ledger board? Thank you
You would be assuming that both your shower pan and your tile on the pan or exactly level, should that be the case on all four sides then you are correct you would not need a ledger board
Thank you for the reply. I love your videos.👍 unless you have a perfect square shower pan" all 4 sides are equal " the pan will be leveled 2in from the wall=> no need for the ledger board. As i floated my pan today 60x30 in, no way you will get leveled 15in from the drain. You will end up with a flat \/ from the center. 1/4 in per 1ft is not ideal for 15in slope. Then, if your shower is long, you may need 5/8 per ft. I think YOUR LEDGER BOARD IS A MUST in this scenario. AND 12in - 1/2in = 11in gap from the pan is perfect. Experience is gold and you have it.
Maybe you could set your video camera on a halogen light stand because I'm getting dizzy watching you! Also music is a loud but your You Tube is awesome and I really appreciate all the insight you have shown us. I've just learned about the ledger. Great Call!!!
Does this apply to bath tubs ?
Probably stupid question, but want to be sure.
Thanks
Yes
Where the bottom wall tile meets the tile floor, do you grout that joint or caulk it? Both? Thanks!
I grouted that area, if there is any cracking in the future than it should be caulked
Great video Bob. Thx. Can you comment on setting the ledger bd influenced by the ceiling height? So you don’t end up with too small of a row at the top. You didn’t seem to cover this. I can see how it might cause you to reduce the size of the bottom row in some cases. Thx
You have to measure and find the center of the wall first . Dry fit the tile with pencil marks. Some people want the tile dimensions to be the same at top and bottom .
Can I set my tile in my final mortar bed? A 12x24 tile with 6 in.in the pan and 6in. On the the wall? Then start you rows. Or would the mortar string and Crack the tile in the mortar?
I'm not sure I understand your question but tile should never be set inside of the mortar bed
@@StarrTile yes, ty. My thought was , set my cement board 4 inches above ground, then set a tile into the pan, half in the mortar pan, half out the mortar pan onto the cement board, acting as a type of ledger for my first row if tile. In doing that also ensures no gap from ground to wall, since you shouldn't put your cement board in your mortar pan.
So basically instead of the cement board in the pan, you put tile around the bottom.
@@joshuaallen5453 the tile should never be touching the mortar, regardless...
Even at my final bottom row the tile never quite touches the floor tile because it has a grout line there.
I suppose you could do it your way without an issue but I don't think I'd be willing to experiment
You did Not confuse me, but is a 1/8 inch gap, or any gap necessary for grouting? Or can you but the tile "chipped travertine" against each other. Thanks.
Explanation was perfect. My ADD was a problem! 😂
Hi, thank you for your videos. Though I am stuck on a few things...
Do you fill the void between floor tile and Durock with anything ? If not, when grouting would the grout not go straight through gap. Also do you caulk where wall tile meets floor? do you leave a gap to accommodate?
Sorry if i have missed the advice on previous videos...
Thanks again. Andy
The void gets tile up to the liner, all tile is grouted...you could caulk where gap is but Redgard is painted in there also so a bit redundant. Once floor tile is set it's grouted and wall tile set....not sure I answered your question, thought it was clear on the video.
ua-cam.com/video/cNLaNE2h9H8/v-deo.html
That video might help...
I thought you are supposed to caulk, not grout, where the wall tiles meet the floor tiles?
Wouldn't grout destroy the purpose of leaving 1/4" spacing for the hardibacker?
What kind of wood is that, where did you get it from. I can’t find a straight piece of wood if my life depended on it
Base board, found it 🤓
I ended up using my left over goboard and use the factory edge, working great!!! Thank you for this video man, great help!
Does screwing In a ledger board affect waterproofing since it is piercing a hole through my waterproofed wall and into the stud ?
You fill the holes with silicone
Question. If the other way of measuring and cutting the bottom took an hour and a half but you could tile the entire day, doesn’t that save more time than using the ledger board and then letting the above layer dry then having to tile the bottom layer?
I think the point is that you can't continue tiling much past the first row when you start with it, because it will need to cure enough to not budge if bumped (Remember this is going to be your reference for the rest of the tile job).
It's a tradeoff between being able to knock out most of the work sooner, or put in a short workday in the middle of the job, then return to knock out the remaining later. Either way, you still have to split up the job over at least a few days, but most beginners or DIYers will likely appreciate the psychological boost and reward seeing quick early progress.
An added bonus is that (speaking from my own DIY experiences) it's nice to get more progress before having to make yet another run to the store to get more _________, so one will often have a more complete shopping list by the time the next parts run happens...
I love your videos. I stumbled across you, while researching how to do a shower properly after a guy butchered a job on my mom's place. I think my friend and I still made a few errors, but I am hoping it won't matter as much, being that we live in Arizona and it is very dry. We didn't redguard our tile backer board, used that gypsum diamond pattern backer board, and a precast acrylic shower pan.
We used tile rated impervious to water, and grout that is supposed to be epoxy based water proof grout that doesn't need to be sealed.
If you don't mind answering, have you any experience with that Fusion Pro grout sold at the home despot, and if it is as waterproof as the claims?
I've heard Fusion is not that great...I would get Prism
StarrTile thanks. unfortunately we used the premixed fusion already. hopefully we don't run into any issues. once again thanks for the awesome videos.
Fusion is awful!! I've had the displeasure of using that garbage many times as Home Depot forces it on unwitting customers. It is just paint and sand mixed together. There are numerous Fusion grout failures, a quick Google search will reveal many instances of it simply washing down the drain. Considing it stays in solution of Ethylene Glycol water, and what smells like latex, dumped onto lawns to enter the water table, it think it's an environmental disaster. Per the manufacture's instructions, the waster used in cleanup, is @ 11-12 x that of cement based grout. Fusion dries through solvent evaporation, ie shrinkage, grout lines are never as full as they were at the completion of the installation. Be sure to take your contaminated waste water to your cities local hazardous waste recycling center ( mine doesn't have one, neither do the other 4 surrounding towns) this is the advice of CBP, the manufacturer. Or just contaminate your local drinking water. A good size tile job can produce or 1000 gallons of contaminated water. I can't say enough bad things about this awful product.
All very helpful and answering many questions. Thx.
Nice... Method and explanation. How about an installation of 3X6 subway wall tile where the bottom course is a tile base mold and the change is floor level is 3/4" over 4'. I would imagine you would let the base mold course follow the floor level. Then would you take out the entire 3/4" over the 2nd course OR would you take out a 1/8" per course over the next 6 courses (1/8 X 6 = 3/4)? Yes, its a lot of work to take it out over 6 courses but would it produce a better-looking installation?
Great video as always put have to agree with some comments stop the music would rather have you explaining what your doing
You call it "music"?
Very helpful, if I want to put 12 by 24 vertical, subway how do I ledger or start, thanks!!
Your half ones get the ledger....put a scrap piece in between for proper spacing, then full go in next day shaved to fit at floor
Using your methods, coming along, 3 by 3 to ceiling, niche and metal trim. Pan liner first thing tomorrow,
Great info- so do you caulk the corners/bottom? Thanks
You could if you anticipate cracking or water getting in there , it wouldn't hurt but I don't do it by default
@@StarrTile Thanks
What type of thinset are you using over the redguard? Can you use a modified or must you use an unmodified? I know Schluter says you must use unmodified over their water proof membranes.
Shouldn’t the outside perimeter of shower floor be perfectly level ? and everything pitched towards the drain from that point that ,there shouldn’t be any variations in tile width on bottom course
Let me tell you, I have watched a huge number of videos on tiles. I learn mostly from reading the comments. Most of what I do not like is how all the tile jobs are done under perfect conditions. I like these videos because he is for real. He may not have learned from someone, he may not follow the books, but he is a real guy on real jobs. Real.world application is much different than guidelines in a book. It burns me up the way guys throw hissy fits when something is not done to the letter of the law. Methods change, materials change, and the skills of the average pro change. People do ot want.to pay for a guy to spend any extra time on a job that will be torn out in 5 years.
I’ve never understood the ledger till now, thank you for the vid
at the ledger board..if you are using a LASH system how do you do it under the ledger board? I guess it;s one of those things you can't do? or maybe leave an un-thinseted spot under the first tile to slip the level piece under afterwards? thanks for the help man..love the vids
Struckus yeah you could figure out something in order to make it work but honestly I don't think it's really necessary for that last row of tile, there is going to be maybe 5 to 6 only anyway
StarrTile thanks man.. I figured you could just eye it up to get rid of lippage on that row.. Appreciate the help!
What would you think about doing the floor then the lower wall tile (the one under the ledger)?
That sort of defeats the whole purpose of the ledger board, my first tile always goes last
With my 4x16 white glazed tile. Is it acceptable looking to cut the bottom edge off ?
The face of the tile has a rounded edge slightly in the glaze, wouldn't i want to keep that
If all four sides of your shower are square and level then you don't need to cut but it is rare where you can get to that point, I would still give it about an eighth of an inch wiggle room even if that means cutting off the factory Edge by eighth of an inch all the way around
Could you do just one row on the very bottom and then leave a space and then put on your board?
That would be defeating the purpose, your bottom row needs to conform to the floor tile.. that's why the Bottom row goes last
If you only measure from the bottom, how do you prevent having a sliver at the ceiling?
You need to be able to calculate from floor to ceiling the height plus grout lines to figure out how many rows it'll take you... it doesn't need to be a full tile at the bottom, you could cut that in half or however the math works out so you have an equal tile at bottom and top if a sliver cut is a possibility
Do you recommend to do the shower flower first before doing the walls?
Yes
Hi thank you for the video you explained yourself well. It looks very easy that with a straight line. I just have one question the bottom of the tile where it meets the floor does grout go in that seem or do you use caulk ?
There should be a slight gap, about 1/8'' at the bottom...using shims or spacers...then it gets grouted in.
Wow! OK sir you are the BOSS. Knew it when I saw your first video. Subscribed right away. Really good stuff. Thank you.
Thanks!
When you screw the ledger board into the wall, aren't you putting holes in your redguard and compromising the waterproof seal?
Yes..then caulk the holes
If I’m installing a chevron patterned tile, so there’s no flat bottom to sit on a ledger and the wall is not in a shower so the floor is flat will I have any issue cutting the bottom row flat and sitting on 1/16 shims and tiling all the way up to the ceiling in one shot?
If I were you because I think their sheets you were talking about I would run those sheets through a tile saw and get rid of the points, however if you did it your way I would probably use an 16th-inch strip of wood or strips of cardboard rather than individual spacers. And I would probably only do one sheet or two if they are sheets, clean off the outside edges really well and then continue the next day so that you'll have something definitive to set them on that is sturdy because they might have a tendency of bunching up overnight if you stack all that weight on them.