Dear Roger, to fix the cable problem loop a long thin rubber band around the cable and attach the free end to a weight of some sort, the rubber band will allow the cable to move with the laser head, the rubber band being extended will return the cable to its original position away from the engraving area. It works for me.
Hi Roger, Thank you for this video. You mentioned removing the "paint" from the tile after the engraving was complete. What coating did you use? I would be interested in your production video.
I usually Rustoleum satin white paint. This is how I remove the paint after engraving: ua-cam.com/video/SR05CoYgAco/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Roger%27sShop
9:06 two possibilities for the error. 1) Cabling prevented the laser from returning to the proper 'home' position. 2) Cabling bumped/caught the wood and caused a track alignment error. Cable management should be a priority design fix for Xtool.
I have since fixed this by adding drag chain. I have two of these. One has the drag chain now. The other is used only for the RA2 rotary, so that cable is not an issue since it does not move on the Y axis. I may add one to it too in the future. Just because.....
Great video lots of good information I am looking to buy a laser engraver I’m trying figure out between Ortur laser master pro 2 an the xTool D1 they both have features I like I will mainly engrave on wood just wondering what your thoughts are speed does make much difference it’s just to do things for family and friends no big production I ran an industrial laser on production from back in 93 till I retired it cut steel up to 1/4 “ thick it was 750 watt invisible laser
Speed makes a difference if one is in a "production" mode, or if impatient. I have plenty of patience, but sometimes get a little behind on orders and this is where the speed part comes in. One note: If running 3,000 mm per minute or higher, anchor the laser down or it will move around just enough to ruin the project. Guess how I know that..........
Top left, and it homes fine. Just for giggles, I changed the origin point to top right, but it made no difference with existing files set for my other lasers. Still flipped. Not a big deal to flip them for the D1. The odd thing is that if I create a new file when set for the D1, then open in one of my other lasers, the file is still in the correct orientation and can be run (after changing burn settings). When running projects, my set origin is center, so home origin is immaterial. I just found it odd that images were flipped and/or mirrored when opening for the D1.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I do like the D1, just wish so much of it was not so proprietary! I just received (today) a $200, 5.5W laser that I'm going to do some videos on. Haven't opened it yet. This should be interesting............ I have five other brands of lasers to compare it to.
Hi Roger just came across your channel and very helpful and enjoy it. I have noticed you have used a few different lasers. Which one do you like the best? I noticed you have use the Ortur how has that been running and are you happy with it? thanks!
I have an Annbull, Sainsmart, Ortur Laser Master Pro, Atomstack A5 Pro, Atomstack P9-M40, xtool D1, Twotrees TT 5.5, and Aufero Laser 2. Which one works best, depends on the project, and each has its own merits. As for the Ortur, yes, I'm quite happy with it and it gets a lot of use.
Hi, I’m hope you can help me, my husband just bought a D1 for me and It’s put together and I connected it to the computer but when I try to do a practice run and try to engrave or cut all it does is make a line whether it’s a cut or engraved it’s just a line. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You
The grid was downloaded from Thingiverse and was created by Buster Beagle 3D. I was going to make my own, but since he already went to the trouble to do it, I just used his design.
Hi Roger, Thanks for the AwEsOmE review & presentation. I'm a newbie & just purchased my first laser the 10W XTool D1. How do I set up Lightburn on my 10W Xtool D1 laser? Please help. Thanks. - Antonio
8:41 It's 10 degrees outside, and that's too cold to open the door??? How do you cope if it actually gets cold? 10 degrees is a nice Spring day here in the UK!
You mentioned having the Ortur (not sure which model you have) and the Atomstack A5. I've been looking at all 3 of these lasers. I've recently gotten into CNC and looking for a laser to pair with my CNC work. I'd like to engrave on some of my CNC pieces, as well as do some cutting to make earrings, Christmas ornaments, etc... Also I'd like to get in to engraving on tumblers. Which of the 3 do you most recommend?
My Ortur is the Lasermaster Pro and gets the most use engraving wood signs. My Atomstack A5 is used primarily to engrave our "Made In USA" trademark on different project items. The Sainsmart and Annbull lasers are used just to engrave ceramic tiles. The xTool D1 is still pretty new to the shop and I've been doing some modifications, so haven't really put it into a production mode yet. So far, for ease of use, the Ortur comes out on top as it has a homing function.
@@rogersshop I assumed the D1 with the higher output laser would make it stand out. If buying just 1….would you buy the higher powered laser ya think? Or still go with the Ortur?
@@micahc2340 Higher power does equal more speed when engraving and/or cutting, but I think it comes down to what the intended use is going to be. I haven't had this one long enough to really put it through production pace yet. I just completed adding a drag chain (something it REALLY needs) and air assist. I'll be posting that video later today.
I was going to create my own layout grid, but since someone had already done that on Thingiverse.com, I decided to use that one. And, yes, it was engraved with the D1.
How do you rate this to the Ortur Pro? Worth the extra money? After seeing you had a couple quirky things happen, I wonder if sticking with the Ortur is a better decision?
I think it depends on the final intended use. The xTool has twice the output power and is better at cutting than the Ortur. The Ortur has limit switches and a homing function where the xTool does not. The xTool has an upper-left origin, where all of my others are bottom left, so takes some getting used to. The xTool is better built, insofar as structure. the xTool has had some odd sudden non-programmed movements, as noted in the video. The Ortur isn't perfect either as I've had instances where running the same file back to back will sometimes require a reboot between runs. Not every time, but can be a nuisance. The xTool does not have flame detection, but the Ortur does. However, direct sunlight will trip it as will reflections from engraving on glass, so I put a piece of black tape over it. Cable management on the Ortur (out of the box) is superior to the xTool, although I did create a solution. Overall, I like them both. For the beginner, the Ortur has a much less steep learning curve.
No. If you choose to use Lightburn, the license is currently $60, which allows use on two computers. I have eight licenses as I use Lightburn almost exclusive. Each additional license is $10. this is not monthly, but a one-time cost.
It depends on the model selected and if it is a package deal, or if there are promotions running. Currently, $699.00 US is list price. There are some promotions and sales out there which would reduce the price.
I think it had to do with the composition of the plywood core on that sample. It easily cuts through birch plywood in one pass and there isn't much difference in veneer thickness between the two.
My question Sir, and if I missed your reply before please accept my sincere apology. Anyway my question concerns the PC you use on your D1 Laser. I have seen comments where people are using a iPhone or iPad, and other people using a $4000 gaming laptop to run the Laser. This is going to be a hobby for me, not a production machine. Truth is I don't have $4000 to spend on a laptop. If you could give me some ballpark figures for an acceptable PC I would be most grateful. I plan on using the Laser on ceramic tiles, wood, metal engraving, and possibly cardboard to start with. I would prefer too spend my money on materials and accessories, but I want an acceptable PC that will let me "grow" into the game. I hope I have asked this in such a way as you understand what I'm asking. If not, I will try to rewrite this where it makes a little more sense. Before I stop, THANK YOU for sharing your time and and hard earned knowledge. I truly appreciate how you explain things in such a way that I can easily follow.
While you "can" use a phone or tablet, I prefer a hard wired (USB) connection. Anything wireless or in the Cloud has the possibility of dropped packets or signal loss which will ruin a project. I have 7 lasers and a variety of computers to run them. My oldest is HP AMD Rysen 3 laptop 14", that probably isn't worth $100, but it will run any of the lasers. I use Lightburn for just about every project and it runs it just fine. I have one ASUS 15" laptop missing the "H" key that I also use. So long as I do everything from the mouse, it runs a laser just fine. I do graphics designs on other more high-end computers with dedicated graphics cards and dual monitors, but mostly just for speed rendering. It isn't required. In all, I have a laptop or desktop computer for each of the lasers, with exception of my Atomstack A9. That one will run projects from a micro SD card with the G Code loaded on it and has a touchpad to control it. The D1 is "supposed" to get that in the future and has a port for it.
Thank You once again Sir! I can run a USB out to the garage so that takes care of that problem. So glad to hear I don't have to spend $3000 on a fancy laptop. I will be pestering you with more questions as soon as my D1 gets here! Thanks Again Sir for all your help! John@@rogersshop
Just like you, I'm wishing for limit switches on the D1, I'm working on an idea for it, have the parts picked out already but at the moment one thing gets me concerned, connecting it to the main board so is controllable by the software, not sure that be done totally integrated like you can on the Ortur, it has a plug just for that, any ideas? If I come up with solution, I'll be glad to pass on the solution to you, thank you for your video again.
This mainboard appears to be of a proprietary design with unique firmware, not open source, as I am unable to open it in Marlin. Unlike many other boards, there are no inputs for limit switches. I've also been searching for a schematic or breakdown of components on this mainboard, but no luck yet.
@@rogersshop That was the word I don't want to hear, proprietary, but what can we do? Just trying to find a solution, if I get to the bottom of it, you'll be the first one to know. Your comments are appreciated.
i was having the same probles with it carving wrong you have to go into device settings and change you're origin to top left and then the machine we be setup proper for the D1
Had already done that. The odd thing is that new files created just for the X1 display correctly when opened on my other lasers. Not a hard work-around. I just need to remember to flip in Lightburn.
@@rogersshop As Jared Lucian said, device settings is your solution. Where is the home position on you other lasers, bottom left or top left? I faced the same issue couple of weeks ago. I learn that the D1 preferred home position is top left, your images will flip vertically because, if the file was set to bottom left, the D1 will flip it to match home position to the top left, giving you a flipped image. I just set both of my lasers to top left and problem solved. This has nothing to do with the work origin, all depending on home position. Hope it helps.
Now that watched until the end of the video, I had another episode also on the issue of the D1 trying to off the area and banging against the rails. It happens only when "going to home position" is not set or work origin is not set. Not sure if you are using Lightburn or Laserbox, but I have set Lioghtburn to go to home position when I open the software, as soon as I start Lightburn it goes home by default. One more detail about Lightburn, after setting up work origin, don't move the laser head by hand, you will loose it that position, move it from Lightburn, work origin will stick, found that out when doing 3 of the same sign, repetitive work. Remember, This is the first version of compatibility with the D1, a few kinks needs to be ironed out. Thank you for your video!
@@marcoss6212 I'm very experienced with Lightburn, hence my software of choice. Since this has no limit switches, there is no real "home" unless you artificially create one by setting it as an origin. The miss operation I got on video happened after framing when start was initiated, and never should have occurred. I've also had this happen a couple of times when first turning the laser power switch on, before it is even connected to the computer. Has not happened again recently, but I now always watch for it.
That depends on the model of the head, and even then, it is not consistent throughout manufacturing. You need to actually measure it. As I recall, mine is 14 mm.
Roger, thx for the reply mate. What im wondering is what is the dia of the cutting focus, how small a line or text i can burn. Is it .1 mm or better, .05 mm?
Love your laid back presentation style. Straightforward and easy to understand.
Dear Roger, to fix the cable problem loop a long thin rubber band around the cable and attach the free end to a weight of some sort, the rubber band will allow the cable to move with the laser head, the rubber band being extended will return the cable to its original position away from the engraving area. It works for me.
I went with drag chain.
Hi Roger, Thank you for this video. You mentioned removing the "paint" from the tile after the engraving was complete. What coating did you use? I would be interested in your production video.
I usually Rustoleum satin white paint. This is how I remove the paint after engraving: ua-cam.com/video/SR05CoYgAco/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Roger%27sShop
Thanks Roger! What would the tile look like without paint?
9:06 two possibilities for the error. 1) Cabling prevented the laser from returning to the proper 'home' position. 2) Cabling bumped/caught the wood and caused a track alignment error.
Cable management should be a priority design fix for Xtool.
I have since fixed this by adding drag chain. I have two of these. One has the drag chain now. The other is used only for the RA2 rotary, so that cable is not an issue since it does not move on the Y axis. I may add one to it too in the future. Just because.....
Thanks for the video. Your explanation of the eye protection color makes sense. But then why does the xTool D1 ship with green safety goggles?
Because they are very cheap. I've seen these in various shades of green and red shipped with Chinese diode lasers.
Good review. How does it compare to Atomstack? Thanks
Apples to oranges unless you have a 10 watt output Atomstack. They are coming out with one, but I have not had the chance to play with one yet.
@@rogersshop Atomstack have a 20 watt now and xtool have a 20watt module coming out soon…
Great video lots of good information I am looking to buy a laser engraver I’m trying figure out between Ortur laser master pro 2 an the xTool D1 they both have features I like I will mainly engrave on wood just wondering what your thoughts are speed does make much difference it’s just to do things for family and friends no big production I ran an industrial laser on production from back in 93 till I retired it cut steel up to 1/4 “ thick it was 750 watt invisible laser
Speed makes a difference if one is in a "production" mode, or if impatient. I have plenty of patience, but sometimes get a little behind on orders and this is where the speed part comes in. One note: If running 3,000 mm per minute or higher, anchor the laser down or it will move around just enough to ruin the project. Guess how I know that..........
Very cool, I like your safety goggles, what brand are they?
Not cheap, but eye protection is not a place to cut costs! MCWlaser Laser Goggles amzn.to/3syNXy8
Great Video Roger. Your "glitch" with Lightburn is in your Device Settings. You have the wrong origin setting Sir. The origin is the top right.
Top left, and it homes fine. Just for giggles, I changed the origin point to top right, but it made no difference with existing files set for my other lasers. Still flipped. Not a big deal to flip them for the D1. The odd thing is that if I create a new file when set for the D1, then open in one of my other lasers, the file is still in the correct orientation and can be run (after changing burn settings). When running projects, my set origin is center, so home origin is immaterial. I just found it odd that images were flipped and/or mirrored when opening for the D1.
@@rogersshop I have a D1 on the way, I'll check it out.
@@TheLouisianaHobbyGuy I do like the D1, just wish so much of it was not so proprietary!
I just received (today) a $200, 5.5W laser that I'm going to do some videos on. Haven't opened it yet. This should be interesting............ I have five other brands of lasers to compare it to.
I'm new to the xtool d1. What type of board did you do the grid onto? Thank you very much.
That is 1/2" MDF. It burns darker than plywood. Also much cheaper!
Thanks. I would be interested in how you pretreat tilesand settings you use to etch.
I'll be doing a video soon on my entire process and also demonstrating the differences in paint types (brands) and differences in tile brands.
Hi Roger just came across your channel and very helpful and enjoy it. I have noticed you have used a few different lasers. Which one do you like the best? I noticed you have use the Ortur how has that been running and are you happy with it? thanks!
I have an Annbull, Sainsmart, Ortur Laser Master Pro, Atomstack A5 Pro, Atomstack P9-M40, xtool D1, Twotrees TT 5.5, and Aufero Laser 2. Which one works best, depends on the project, and each has its own merits. As for the Ortur, yes, I'm quite happy with it and it gets a lot of use.
Hi, I’m hope you can help me, my husband just bought a D1 for me and It’s put together and I connected it to the computer but when I try to do a practice run and try to engrave or cut all it does is make a line whether it’s a cut or engraved it’s just a line. Any help would be appreciated. Thank You
What software are you using? If Lightburn, you may need to update the firmware. If Laserbox, you still may need to do an update.
Great review Roger. Where would i be able to get a cut file for the grid you are using?
The grid was downloaded from Thingiverse and was created by Buster Beagle 3D. I was going to make my own, but since he already went to the trouble to do it, I just used his design.
Hi Roger, Thanks for the AwEsOmE review & presentation. I'm a newbie & just purchased my first laser the 10W XTool D1. How do I set up Lightburn on my 10W Xtool D1 laser? Please help. Thanks. - Antonio
I also made a video on this: ua-cam.com/video/J_g2eqNSAqg/v-deo.html&ab_channel=Roger%27sShop
Great video!
8:41 It's 10 degrees outside, and that's too cold to open the door??? How do you cope if it actually gets cold? 10 degrees is a nice Spring day here in the UK!
10 degrees F is -12C. Add a stiff north wind and it makes your face hurt..........
@@rogersshop I assumed you meant centigrade, since that's what most people use.
@@Jer0867 In the US, most use Fahrenheit. Although, I understand both.
You mentioned having the Ortur (not sure which model you have) and the Atomstack A5. I've been looking at all 3 of these lasers. I've recently gotten into CNC and looking for a laser to pair with my CNC work. I'd like to engrave on some of my CNC pieces, as well as do some cutting to make earrings, Christmas ornaments, etc... Also I'd like to get in to engraving on tumblers.
Which of the 3 do you most recommend?
My Ortur is the Lasermaster Pro and gets the most use engraving wood signs. My Atomstack A5 is used primarily to engrave our "Made In USA" trademark on different project items. The Sainsmart and Annbull lasers are used just to engrave ceramic tiles. The xTool D1 is still pretty new to the shop and I've been doing some modifications, so haven't really put it into a production mode yet. So far, for ease of use, the Ortur comes out on top as it has a homing function.
@@rogersshop I assumed the D1 with the higher output laser would make it stand out. If buying just 1….would you buy the higher powered laser ya think? Or still go with the Ortur?
@@micahc2340 Higher power does equal more speed when engraving and/or cutting, but I think it comes down to what the intended use is going to be. I haven't had this one long enough to really put it through production pace yet. I just completed adding a drag chain (something it REALLY needs) and air assist. I'll be posting that video later today.
what is the mat or board you have down with the lines? did you make that with the D1?
I was going to create my own layout grid, but since someone had already done that on Thingiverse.com, I decided to use that one. And, yes, it was engraved with the D1.
@@rogersshop I'm looking on that site, how do I find it
@@beazer74 www.thingiverse.com/thing:5098673
How do you rate this to the Ortur Pro? Worth the extra money? After seeing you had a couple quirky things happen, I wonder if sticking with the Ortur is a better decision?
I think it depends on the final intended use. The xTool has twice the output power and is better at cutting than the Ortur. The Ortur has limit switches and a homing function where the xTool does not. The xTool has an upper-left origin, where all of my others are bottom left, so takes some getting used to. The xTool is better built, insofar as structure. the xTool has had some odd sudden non-programmed movements, as noted in the video. The Ortur isn't perfect either as I've had instances where running the same file back to back will sometimes require a reboot between runs. Not every time, but can be a nuisance. The xTool does not have flame detection, but the Ortur does. However, direct sunlight will trip it as will reflections from engraving on glass, so I put a piece of black tape over it. Cable management on the Ortur (out of the box) is superior to the xTool, although I did create a solution. Overall, I like them both. For the beginner, the Ortur has a much less steep learning curve.
How do you make shapes and custom designs in the software?
Is there any sort of monthly subscription required? I saw that some laser companies, like GlowForge require a subscription for the software and such.
No. If you choose to use Lightburn, the license is currently $60, which allows use on two computers. I have eight licenses as I use Lightburn almost exclusive. Each additional license is $10. this is not monthly, but a one-time cost.
@@rogersshop Great! I just ordered one of these with the air assist and a honeycomb panel for under it. Thanks for this video and the reply.
Hi ! Just wanna ask the price of xTool D1 laser ? Thanks
It depends on the model selected and if it is a package deal, or if there are promotions running. Currently, $699.00 US is list price. There are some promotions and sales out there which would reduce the price.
@@rogersshop thanks for the info..
At least i have an idea for the price
Not sure how, but Chris Powell did a cut of 1/4” walnut in one pass, so you should be able to get one pass with oak
I think it had to do with the composition of the plywood core on that sample. It easily cuts through birch plywood in one pass and there isn't much difference in veneer thickness between the two.
@@rogersshop I can’t wait to get mine, between your videos and powells it made my decision easy :)
Maybe your tile test was offset because you left the focus arm down and it moved the tile?
The focus arm is retracted.
My question Sir, and if I missed your reply before please accept my sincere apology. Anyway my question concerns the PC you use on your D1 Laser. I have seen comments where people are using a iPhone or iPad, and other people using a $4000 gaming laptop to run the Laser. This is going to be a hobby for me, not a production machine. Truth is I don't have $4000 to spend on a laptop. If you could give me some ballpark figures for an acceptable PC I would be most grateful. I plan on using the Laser on ceramic tiles, wood, metal engraving, and possibly cardboard to start with. I would prefer too spend my money on materials and accessories, but I want an acceptable PC that will let me "grow" into the game. I hope I have asked this in such a way as you understand what I'm asking. If not, I will try to rewrite this where it makes a little more sense.
Before I stop, THANK YOU for sharing your time and and hard earned knowledge. I truly appreciate how you explain things in such a way that I can easily follow.
While you "can" use a phone or tablet, I prefer a hard wired (USB) connection. Anything wireless or in the Cloud has the possibility of dropped packets or signal loss which will ruin a project. I have 7 lasers and a variety of computers to run them. My oldest is HP AMD Rysen 3 laptop 14", that probably isn't worth $100, but it will run any of the lasers. I use Lightburn for just about every project and it runs it just fine. I have one ASUS 15" laptop missing the "H" key that I also use. So long as I do everything from the mouse, it runs a laser just fine. I do graphics designs on other more high-end computers with dedicated graphics cards and dual monitors, but mostly just for speed rendering. It isn't required. In all, I have a laptop or desktop computer for each of the lasers, with exception of my Atomstack A9. That one will run projects from a micro SD card with the G Code loaded on it and has a touchpad to control it. The D1 is "supposed" to get that in the future and has a port for it.
Thank You once again Sir! I can run a USB out to the garage so that takes care of that problem. So glad to hear I don't have to spend $3000 on a fancy laptop. I will be pestering you with more questions as soon as my D1 gets here! Thanks Again Sir for all your help!
John@@rogersshop
How did you make the grid
Download from Thningiverse as I was too lazy to make my own: www.thingiverse.com/thing:5098673
Just like you, I'm wishing for limit switches on the D1, I'm working on an idea for it, have the parts picked out already but at the moment one thing gets me concerned, connecting it to the main board so is controllable by the software, not sure that be done totally integrated like you can on the Ortur, it has a plug just for that, any ideas? If I come up with solution, I'll be glad to pass on the solution to you, thank you for your video again.
This mainboard appears to be of a proprietary design with unique firmware, not open source, as I am unable to open it in Marlin. Unlike many other boards, there are no inputs for limit switches. I've also been searching for a schematic or breakdown of components on this mainboard, but no luck yet.
@@rogersshop That was the word I don't want to hear, proprietary, but what can we do? Just trying to find a solution, if I get to the bottom of it, you'll be the first one to know. Your comments are appreciated.
Was this with 5 or 10 power and if 10 do u think the 5 would suffice for a newbie
This one has the 10 watt output laser. If just starting out, and you don't intend to do a lot of cutting, a 5 watt output will work just fine.
i was having the same probles with it carving wrong you have to go into device settings and change you're origin to top left and then the machine we be setup proper for the D1
Had already done that. The odd thing is that new files created just for the X1 display correctly when opened on my other lasers. Not a hard work-around. I just need to remember to flip in Lightburn.
@@rogersshop As Jared Lucian said, device settings is your solution. Where is the home position on you other lasers, bottom left or top left? I faced the same issue couple of weeks ago. I learn that the D1 preferred home position is top left, your images will flip vertically because, if the file was set to bottom left, the D1 will flip it to match home position to the top left, giving you a flipped image. I just set both of my lasers to top left and problem solved. This has nothing to do with the work origin, all depending on home position. Hope it helps.
Now that watched until the end of the video, I had another episode also on the issue of the D1 trying to off the area and banging against the rails. It happens only when "going to home position" is not set or work origin is not set. Not sure if you are using Lightburn or Laserbox, but I have set Lioghtburn to go to home position when I open the software, as soon as I start Lightburn it goes home by default.
One more detail about Lightburn, after setting up work origin, don't move the laser head by hand, you will loose it that position, move it from Lightburn, work origin will stick, found that out when doing 3 of the same sign, repetitive work.
Remember, This is the first version of compatibility with the D1, a few kinks needs to be ironed out.
Thank you for your video!
@@marcoss6212 I'm very experienced with Lightburn, hence my software of choice. Since this has no limit switches, there is no real "home" unless you artificially create one by setting it as an origin. The miss operation I got on video happened after framing when start was initiated, and never should have occurred. I've also had this happen a couple of times when first turning the laser power switch on, before it is even connected to the computer. Has not happened again recently, but I now always watch for it.
@@rogersshop I understand your point, I was trying to help since I got the same issues as you did, hasn't happen again :),
have a nice day.
Id like to what the focus dia of the laser :)
That depends on the model of the head, and even then, it is not consistent throughout manufacturing. You need to actually measure it. As I recall, mine is 14 mm.
Roger, thx for the reply mate. What im wondering is what is the dia of the cutting focus, how small a line or text i can burn. Is it .1 mm or better, .05 mm?
@@barryhenshaw9321 .08mm. Highly accurate and fine details on line engravings.
"Now i go do lil stripping" LMAO
Paint?
Anyone know if you could engrave black oxide with the d1?
If you mean a black oxide coated metal, the answer is yes. It also works well with a black power-coated aluminum.
@@rogersshop thanks!
Not a very friendly fellow. Pretty condescending.
Likewise
@@rogersshop I apologize. I thought that I was being constructive, I guess that I should keep my comments to myself.