I'm an old guy, but still open to learning. I came to this video to see if I could pick up some new ideas, and was surprised at how much you do things nearly exactly to the way that I do them, right down to the same polishing/waxing materials.
Honestly with Tamiya sprays for both color and clear I don't mist coat. If I mist coat Tamiya I end up with bad orange peel. The trick is to spray right to the point that it shifts from looking dry or misted to looking like a flat glass smooth wet coat and STOP right there. Let it set 15 to 20 minutes between coats, after the color is on let it sit at least 2 hours before you clear, I often let it sit overnight. After you clear don't touch it for at least 3 days unless you want finger prints in it because it will be quite soft. But, at the same time I end up with glass smooth clear. I usually don't even bother with sanding I go right to rubbing/polish/wax. On my Tamiya Mazda MX-5 ND I didn't even use the compounds on it as it was glass smooth and I could see my reflection in it. I let it sit a week and then went straight to wax. Tamiya is the only sprays I can work with like this. And using Tamiya I can now do it consistently.
i agree. misting 10 coats of tamiya is absolutely the worst you can do. i aim for 2-3 coats of 50%+ coverage each from primer to color, sand down as needed and then clear. clear over decals will require misting but you will have to eventually go pretty heavy with at least 2 full wet coats.
You may have just sold me on tamiya paint I was going to try them regardless on my next. I can get a good finish with others. I'm going to try tamiya and to polish and wax for the first time.
Amen Justin. I just did that today and had the same thought...just go right to cream polishing steps. It's so cool how the Tamiya suddenly goes smooth.
I couldn’t agree more. This guy loves to do multiple mist coats then says “with Tamiya it’s impossible to get a glossy finish”. I have no problem getting a glossy coat. I mist coat and 1 minute later give it a wet coat. Give it 5 minutes to rest then wet coat again, and then a third wet coat.
Thanks for the great video! I wasn't crazy about the color scheme at first. But, WOW what a fantastic job! I'm just getting into modeling and these videos are really helpful. Nice little paint shop you got there too!
I love model cars I just don't build very many for this reason. AFV don't need all that polishing. (Most) airplanes don't need polishing. And I've never glossed a ship model ever and they all turn out great. Still, you do great work. And some great tips in there as well. Thank you.
Guys, just wanna tell you my experience. This is my first time I paint any scale model. I painted 3 coats of clear and turns out it seems to be still flat and dull Then I keep adding more Finally, total of 6 coats of clear and it turns out really good So, dont be afraid that you have to add more and more layers Just keep on adding it, but bear in mind that MIST COST, dont be too close too,
i praise you alot for your videos. i even subscribed. i currently already built 3 cars and my 4th one is currently in bad shape since i painted it and already coated it ahead before knowing that i should still put a clear coat. thank you alot for these videos you make it helps me alot with my questions. and i hope one day i could be also as good as you.
I used to use rattle cans all the time years before I started using automotive paint. The tamiya gloss is one of the best I think and is very forgiving. My process is a couple mist coats a medium coat and then a wet coat. You can get pretty wet before it runs, once you do a mistake or two you will gauge how far you can go. Then you dont really have to worry about wet sanding and just polish. :)
Popo popopopo This is the tricky part. Tamiya Gloss cures at a different rate to the colours, It's best to paint it straight after the colour coat. Or to wait until the colour has cured completley or it can crack depending on weather. If I didn't spray it straight after I waited a week or more.
thank you very much !!!! I am tempted to use 2k clear on tamiya ts ... but Tom also made a video with a mx-5 and tamiya ts-13 and it seems to work ... i don't want to ruin a c1models RWB kit :)
Popo popopopo There shouldn't be a problem with 2k clear over Tamiya TS paints. The TS are Lacquer paints. If you want to put 2k clear over tamiya clear I would make sure it's fully gassed out. Don't worry about ruining your models with paint you can always strip paint and start over. :)
Hi all - I did not get a chance to read all comments but just wanted to add one thing I do is warm up the can in warm water, the paints flows more better also tip can upside down and spray to clear the nozzel after you apply the paint.
Thanks for a well produced video. It is clear, the sound is good, the steps are explained fully. We must remember to not rush the process and you've confirmed that. Also, can you tell whose music you have for the background? Interesting sound.
I really like Tamiya's spray paints overall but I think Tamiya's TS-13 Clear is better for topcoating over tinted windows since the intensity of the shine is higher than other brands. I personally like using Mr Hobby Premium Topcoat Gloss for a lighter shine and Mr Hobby Super Clear Gloss for a deeper shine, since they have a shine to it but it's not as much as TS-13 and is a bit easier to use. One thing to note is Mr Hobby paints tend to spray a bit wider for the area compared with Tamiya.
Hello there !! Thanks for all those video you post! I am willing to go into model cars, but I am completly greeny so I did not even know that a model as this, could receive more than 2 or evn 3 coats of paint...
Hi man 👍 I've watch this series of video's that you have very kindly shared (thank you for that👍) I just have 1 question........ in this video you say 5 days for the clear coat to harden, but even after 5 days it still won't be properly cured, would you be able to let me know how long until it's properly cured? As after watching these video's I feel confident to start my AE86 in the classic panda colour way I just feel I may be a little heavy handed for that final rub down with the 1200 grit before the final polish These videos you do and the paint jobs you create are fantastic👍I must say I'm a true fan of your channel👍
Wow you do really great work. Far too much work for my taste in model building but great results!!! I usually buff the 3rd coat of clear and call it done ;)
Pretty brave to flat and polish 3 coats of single pack. I always calculated that one coat of two pack was equal to five coats of single pack and l would never risk flatting one coat of two pack so pretty brave stuff risking rubbing through! Mind you l was painting full scale cars!!
I have to disagree about tamiya spray can. I use them and get an absolute perfect finish. When people ask they can't believe I use a can. Misting the paint on like you done in the video will definitely give you a bad finish. First coat I mist on but still keep it even. Second coat I lay down quite wet then the third heavier again. I do that for primer and colour.
Also put the can under warm water for a few minutes before spraying. Helps the paint or clear level out while drying. Cold or even just room temp paint can spray out uneven or blotchy. Also model master gloss clear sprays nicer than tamiya imo
Hello I´m painting my auto with Revell spray can but after 3 layers of Color I got an irregular light granulated Surface. What do you suggest? sanding it before applying the clear or applying the clear directly and sanding it after clear coats? Best Regards!
Great video series! Quick question - in case you were to apply decals to the body of the vehicle would you recommend doing so prior to or after applying the clearcoat? Cheers
I am building a model of a 1984 Coupe Deville. I have finished the paint job, but I want to paint a few small details on the body. Should I paint those details before I apply the clear coat, or after I apply the clear coat. The spray painting was done with lacquer spray paint, but the detailing is done with enamel paints.
This is excellent, thank you. I want to use this method, but my kit has a few large water decals that need to go on. At what point would you apply those here? There's one on the roof, the rear and the hood.
That makes perfect sense, thank you! Your channel is extremely helpful. Everything is stunningly simple, but your technique and experience make seem like magic.
While spraying my 1k clear i ran out, it was the next day before i could get more so i decided to let it fully cure. Should i wet sand my clear coat and then clear again, Wet sand and apply a light base and then clear and just clear straight over the cured clear coat? Thanks love the channel
@@TheScalemodelingChannel thanks. Your channel has helped me so much. Do you sand, polish and wax other body color parts such as side mirrors, hood scoops and spoilers too?
I have a question. What if you are making a 60's or earlier car with a lot of chrome trim. Would you paint the trim before the clear coat? Also what if you are using Bare Metal chrome trim?
I love your job. Assemble a Sauber C9 tamiya and when I apply polish to the carroceria I have a matte effect. I will try to fix it. thanks for your videos
I have a question. I started the hobby again after about 25 years and started my first kit. Got the primer down pretty smooth, but not really happy with the paint, some orange peel. How can I fix the orange before I spray with clear? Can it be sanded and polished out? Suggestions? Thanks.
Love your videos, they've been so helpful. Question...at what step does all the window and body trim occur? Is this after all color, clear and polishing steps or at some step in between? I'd think you'd want a clear coat over the trim right? I'm just unsure where the trim work fits in best. Thanks!
Tom, thanks for the quick reply. One follow up...in the past I've had issues with smudges and fingerprints when doing trim and body detail work after all color and clear coating. After watching this video, I'm thinking the reason I've had that trouble is that I've never polished and waxed. Would you agree? Polishing and waxing will allow me to easily wipe away any smudging or fingerprints from my detail work...right? BTW, this is my wife's account...I'm Luke, not Michele. :-)
Tom, If doing all the trim detail at very end after all the polishing, is there much risk of damage to the model with masking tape, if using quality masking tape such as Tamiya?
I am building a car that is molded in red plastic. I used rattle cans to lay down 2 coats of gray primer followed by 3 coats of the final color, gloss white. My car looks pink! I'm sure I will have to strip the paint and start over, but what would you advise to prevent this from happening?
Im new to the hobby. I was wondering if I have to sand down the clearcoat. I am not going for a realistic look. I just want the model to look good on my shelf. I am probably not going to pay too much attention to the orange peel. Most of my pre-built models have a little bit of orange peel. Thank you.
I like to build race cars and they have many decals. I usually seal them under a clear coat, but not only would I be afraid to sand through the paint but to sand through the decals. Any advice?
I made the mistake of spraying in my shop thinking it wouldn't get everywhere. Well I was wrong. What paint booth do you recommend using paint can projects?
Hey Tom Did you Sand Smooth primer wit regular 1000 or did you wet sand ? Also do you wetsand or sand the paint usually in prep for clear specifically for this 1k clear?
Maybe you should ask them, i personally would never do this as after you apply the clear coat you can still see the scratches you made by sanding the color coat.
I don’t know much about weathering. But i thing its better to clearcoat it first. So you can remove waathering easier. Look up: lasercreation world, Plasmo and Luke Towan. They are good at weathering
Hey great video I just have a quick question, after removing the orange peel and polishing the car I can get a pretty reflective surface however there seems to be small scratches that I can't seem to get rid of, do you have any advice for this?
Hey quick question, I always polish with the Tamia compounds, and what I do is after I apply the clear I sand with 1500 grit, 6000 grit and 8000 grit, and whenever I use the compounds I get streaks no matter what, they resemble scratches on a disc, they’re extremely fine and I was wondering if there is something I should be doing differently or if I am way to meticulous, thanks man!
The jump from 1500 to 6000 is to big. 1500 is also very coarse. So try starting at 3600 then 4200, 5000 etc. Use smaller steps and make sure to remove all the scratches from the previous step. Also be sure to use a super soft non scratching cloth. Lets say. You paper towel, it will scratch
Good day, if im going to use tamiya clear coat just what you did on this video when is the best time to apply the tamiya accent line before or after the clear coat? Thank you
Also use isopropyl alcohol to remove the polish completely before waxing. And honestly using something like hydrosilex instead of wax is probably better for the scale and longer lasting more protective coating.
Thank you for this well made tutorial. I am currently working on die-cast models in scale 1:18. Is there anything you would recommend to do differently than in this video, when painting a diecast model? For example I wonder if the diecast needs to be sanded before applying the filler, if I sand the filler (same as prime coat?) anyway... Does anyone have experience with this?
William Aviles no man, that would be like saying a cheeseburger from mcdonalds is the same as one from burger king. Same name different product. Different finish and quality
Really cool and helpful video mate! I was really impressed by the result .... I have a Supra with 1K Clear too and I really want to try this out too! Sadly all the stickers are already on the car... can I remove them somehow or would they be sanded down too? (I have another decal sheet of the same car... )
The Scalemodeling Channel awesome, so then I'll have to test run the coat on something. I appreciate your help, amazing job on this and that R-34 you did
Question: I'm working on my first model ever (your vids inspired me to give it a go :P) and I tried to remember your note at 4:30 about not polishing off the thin corners.... annnd i've rushed myself and done just that. I think only the colour layer has started to come off along - stopped as soon as I saw. I plan on masking and respraying the affected panel/panels but just wondering if you have any tips/advice on doing so? Should I sand back some of the clear on the rest of the panel with a lower grit then color + clear over the top of the whole thing or just try and focus my sprays on the one area? I'm using tamiya cans only at this point Thanks and keep up the great content :)
Thomas Ling i think it would be best to not fix it. Spray cans are pretty aggresive and can leave a very thick edge on the masked area. If you do want to give it a go. Sand the entire panel you want to repaint with 1200 grit sandpaper
Hi I'm completely new to scale modeling. Just want to ask if u clear then decal then clear, at which stage does sanding and polishing happen? I would imaging sanding after decal would destroy the decal....
If you have the time and patience, clear decal clear. If you dont have the patience just decal then clear. You polish after you apply clearcoat and gave the clear a week to dry. Sanding after decals would indeed destroy them :P just like sanding after paint will destroy the paind. Only polish the clear!
thank you for the info.! still a bit confused...So if i have a big chunk of decal that got clear coated, and have orange peel on it, i should just sand around the decal( parts where there is no decal) and avoid the decal(not to destroy it)?
If the decal is clear you can sand it, as you are sanding the clear on top of the decal, not the decal itself, if it is not clear you can not sand the decal.
Why do u have to let the car dry for 5 days? I let each of my coats dry for more than an hour then let the hole thing dry over night is that, going to get a good paint job as the finish?
The Scalemodeling Channel Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate it. All the info I read is from a decade ago. I'm guessing they changed their formula since then.
This might be a stupid question. If you are holding up the car and look at if can you tell the difference between the part you polished and the hard go get at places you couldn't really polish.
Do you polish after all clears you apply even the Zero paints 2K clear? Or just after the spray can 1K clears? One other clear related question as I have watched a ton of your videos. How do you decide what decals go under the clear and which ones go over? I noticed on some of your builds you do both so was just curious if you have a system to which go under or over or is it just a choice? Thanks for I put and tips.
+Brandon Drescher I only polish 1k spray can clear, the 2k clears usualy come out with a perfectly fine finish and shine. Pretty much all the decals on the body go underneath the clear, except when i forget or when i was planning on painting the detail by hand.
Great thanks for the info I greatly appreciate it. Right now I use spray cans for my car but looking to get w good airbrush in the coming months. As far as paints for someone that's new to air brushing is Zero Paints or Gravity paints a better one to use? Or are they about the same? Figured since we can both in the states I would ask you since you've used both. Thbaks
question: I plan to use your method of painting on a future gundam build. I do want it shiny but do you think a three layer clear coat is necessary or can will i get by with just go with one to two?
I bought a Rustoleom Black Gloss paint and primer and a Rustoleoum clear coat. I got terrible results. Is it because of the company or is it because I suck at this? I sanded it down with 400 grit before doing anything also. If I bought Tamiya Black gloss, primer and clear coat, do you think I could get better results?
I'm an old guy, but still open to learning. I came to this video to see if I could pick up some new ideas, and was surprised at how much you do things nearly exactly to the way that I do them, right down to the same polishing/waxing materials.
Honestly with Tamiya sprays for both color and clear I don't mist coat. If I mist coat Tamiya I end up with bad orange peel.
The trick is to spray right to the point that it shifts from looking dry or misted to looking like a flat glass smooth wet coat and STOP right there. Let it set 15 to 20 minutes between coats, after the color is on let it sit at least 2 hours before you clear, I often let it sit overnight.
After you clear don't touch it for at least 3 days unless you want finger prints in it because it will be quite soft. But, at the same time I end up with glass smooth clear. I usually don't even bother with sanding I go right to rubbing/polish/wax.
On my Tamiya Mazda MX-5 ND I didn't even use the compounds on it as it was glass smooth and I could see my reflection in it. I let it sit a week and then went straight to wax.
Tamiya is the only sprays I can work with like this. And using Tamiya I can now do it consistently.
i agree. misting 10 coats of tamiya is absolutely the worst you can do. i aim for 2-3 coats of 50%+ coverage each from primer to color, sand down as needed and then clear. clear over decals will require misting but you will have to eventually go pretty heavy with at least 2 full wet coats.
You may have just sold me on tamiya paint I was going to try them regardless on my next. I can get a good finish with others. I'm going to try tamiya and to polish and wax for the first time.
Amen Justin. I just did that today and had the same thought...just go right to cream polishing steps. It's so cool how the Tamiya suddenly goes smooth.
I've had such a tough time with spray can clear coat and this video has really helped a lot, thanks so much for sharing! Great build!
I couldn’t agree more. This guy loves to do multiple mist coats then says “with Tamiya it’s impossible to get a glossy finish”. I have no problem getting a glossy coat. I mist coat and 1 minute later give it a wet coat. Give it 5 minutes to rest then wet coat again, and then a third wet coat.
What a great turtorial followed all your steps and i can believe how good the paint job is i used spray cans as well, thanks for sharing your wisdom 😊
This is the video that changed my life!
Thanks for the great video! I wasn't crazy about the color scheme at first. But, WOW what a fantastic job! I'm just getting into modeling and these videos are really helpful.
Nice little paint shop you got there too!
I love model cars I just don't build very many for this reason. AFV don't need all that polishing. (Most) airplanes don't need polishing. And I've never glossed a ship model ever and they all turn out great. Still, you do great work. And some great tips in there as well. Thank you.
thank you so much for these videos!! I am getting pretty close to what I want with a white coat thanks to you!
Guys, just wanna tell you my experience.
This is my first time I paint any scale model.
I painted 3 coats of clear and turns out it seems to be still flat and dull
Then I keep adding more
Finally, total of 6 coats of clear and it turns out really good
So, dont be afraid that you have to add more and more layers
Just keep on adding it, but bear in mind that MIST COST, dont be too close too,
i praise you alot for your videos. i even subscribed. i currently already built 3 cars and my 4th one is currently in bad shape since i painted it and already coated it ahead before knowing that i should still put a clear coat. thank you alot for these videos you make it helps me alot with my questions. and i hope one day i could be also as good as you.
I used to use rattle cans all the time years before I started using automotive paint. The tamiya gloss is one of the best I think and is very forgiving. My process is a couple mist coats a medium coat and then a wet coat. You can get pretty wet before it runs, once you do a mistake or two you will gauge how far you can go. Then you dont really have to worry about wet sanding and just polish. :)
+xrlent12 how much time did you leave between the color and the clear coat ?
Popo popopopo This is the tricky part. Tamiya Gloss cures at a different rate to the colours, It's best to paint it straight after the colour coat. Or to wait until the colour has cured completley or it can crack depending on weather. If I didn't spray it straight after I waited a week or more.
thank you very much !!!! I am tempted to use 2k clear on tamiya ts ... but Tom also made a video with a mx-5 and tamiya ts-13 and it seems to work ... i don't want to ruin a c1models RWB kit :)
Popo popopopo There shouldn't be a problem with 2k clear over Tamiya TS paints. The TS are Lacquer paints. If you want to put 2k clear over tamiya clear I would make sure it's fully gassed out. Don't worry about ruining your models with paint you can always strip paint and start over. :)
+xrlent12 Thank you very much. I am gonna try my best :) Best regards
Hi all - I did not get a chance to read all comments but just wanted to add one thing I do is warm up the can in warm water,
the paints flows more better also tip can upside down and spray to clear the nozzel after you apply the paint.
Thanks for a well produced video. It is clear, the sound is good, the steps are explained fully. We must remember to not rush
the process and you've confirmed that. Also, can you tell whose music you have for the background? Interesting sound.
Mitch Gawlik youtube audiolibrary ;)
request: I am wondering if you can show us you collection of built models. please
He should do this, it would make a good video
+DansanTutorials look on fb.
Hi Tom,
Nissan is looking very nice thus far. I can't wait to see the finished build.
happy Modelling,
Les
Looking great! I went through the same process on my 300ZX. A lot of work but certainly worth it.
thank you for uploading this. i am currently building a RX7 FC cabriolet and i needed help on this step. thank you so so so much!
I really like Tamiya's spray paints overall but I think Tamiya's TS-13 Clear is better for topcoating over tinted windows since the intensity of the shine is higher than other brands. I personally like using Mr Hobby Premium Topcoat Gloss for a lighter shine and Mr Hobby Super Clear Gloss for a deeper shine, since they have a shine to it but it's not as much as TS-13 and is a bit easier to use. One thing to note is Mr Hobby paints tend to spray a bit wider for the area compared with Tamiya.
Hello there !! Thanks for all those video you post! I am willing to go into model cars, but I am completly greeny so I did not even know that a model as this, could receive more than 2 or evn 3 coats of paint...
Hi man 👍 I've watch this series of video's that you have very kindly shared (thank you for that👍) I just have 1 question........ in this video you say 5 days for the clear coat to harden, but even after 5 days it still won't be properly cured, would you be able to let me know how long until it's properly cured? As after watching these video's I feel confident to start my AE86 in the classic panda colour way I just feel I may be a little heavy handed for that final rub down with the 1200 grit before the final polish
These videos you do and the paint jobs you create are fantastic👍I must say I'm a true fan of your channel👍
It should be fully cured after 90 days. Its safe to handle after 5 days. Polishing probably after a week or so
Ok, thank you for your speedy reply 👍
Wow you do really great work. Far too much work for my taste in model building but great results!!! I usually buff the 3rd coat of clear and call it done ;)
Pretty brave to flat and polish 3 coats of single pack. I always calculated that one coat of two pack was equal to five coats of single pack and l would never risk flatting one coat of two pack so pretty brave stuff risking rubbing through! Mind you l was painting full scale cars!!
Heat spray can in a little hot water before painting which gives a little more pressure 👍
Thought the music around 7:42 onwards was familiar. It's definitely 6th Avenue Heartache by the Wallflowers. I miss the '90s.
Put a drop of washing detergent in the water it helps.
baby shampoo
I remember long ago compounding my models with Crest toothpaste.
Did it work
@@rayyannoushad
I had the shiniest orange peel paint jobs.
I have to disagree about tamiya spray can. I use them and get an absolute perfect finish. When people ask they can't believe I use a can. Misting the paint on like you done in the video will definitely give you a bad finish. First coat I mist on but still keep it even. Second coat I lay down quite wet then the third heavier again. I do that for primer and colour.
Yep. This is the correct method.
Also put the can under warm water for a few minutes before spraying. Helps the paint or clear level out while drying. Cold or even just room temp paint can spray out uneven or blotchy.
Also model master gloss clear sprays nicer than tamiya imo
How long between coats?
All right, thanks a lot again. Dry sanding? One more last question. Am I able to stick my water slide decal after spraying the ts80?
yes and yes
Hello I´m painting my auto with Revell spray can but after 3 layers of Color I got an irregular light granulated Surface. What do you suggest? sanding it before applying the clear or applying the clear directly and sanding it after clear coats? Best Regards!
Great video series!
Quick question - in case you were to apply decals to the body of the vehicle would you recommend doing so prior to or after applying the clearcoat?
Cheers
Prior
It dawned on me at 11 minutes in that he was playing the wallflowers. Nice.
I am building a model of a 1984 Coupe Deville. I have finished the paint job, but I want to paint a few small details on the body. Should I paint those details before I apply the clear coat, or after I apply the clear coat. The spray painting was done with lacquer spray paint, but the detailing is done with enamel paints.
This is excellent, thank you. I want to use this method, but my kit has a few large water decals that need to go on. At what point would you apply those here? There's one on the roof, the rear and the hood.
Jason Karlek aply 1 or 2 light coats of clear. Let those dry for a couple days. Aply the decals. And add 2 or 3 more coats of clear
That makes perfect sense, thank you! Your channel is extremely helpful. Everything is stunningly simple, but your technique and experience make seem like magic.
Question: Do you rinse down the body in between polishing with the different grits? Or do you go directly into polishing from 1200 to 2000?
Yes, clean the surface before you go to the next grit.
Nice video.
How do you paint the black rubber seal from the windows with can?
Mask it off. Paint it
I like to use acrylic spray can. Should I apply clear coat after this process?
While spraying my 1k clear i ran out, it was the next day before i could get more so i decided to let it fully cure. Should i wet sand my clear coat and then clear again, Wet sand and apply a light base and then clear and just clear straight over the cured clear coat? Thanks love the channel
Sand the clear and apply more
Hey Tom,great work!!! ball park figure, wut would you charge for a paint job on one of these?
Sorry, i’m not looking for commission work
When do you paint the trim, like around the windows? After the wax?
After
@@TheScalemodelingChannel thanks. Your channel has helped me so much. Do you sand, polish and wax other body color parts such as side mirrors, hood scoops and spoilers too?
@@CCSUnit13 no, only big pieces that need it
I have a question. What if you are making a 60's or earlier car with a lot of chrome trim. Would you paint the trim before the clear coat? Also what if you are using Bare Metal chrome trim?
I would use BMF after the clearcoat
A question to you is why not wet sand the whole thing
I love your job. Assemble a Sauber C9 tamiya and when I apply polish to the carroceria I have a matte effect. I will try to fix it. thanks for your videos
Try turning the can upside down and clearing the spray nozzle every once in awhile and you won't get so much orange peel
Warm that can and use more than three coats you can get a glass shine on there
Do you
recommend apply TS13 over decals? Or better apply decals after clearcoat. I had read a lot about the problems with TS13 over decals
I have a question. I started the hobby again after about 25 years and started my first kit. Got the primer down pretty smooth, but not really happy with the paint, some orange peel. How can I fix the orange before I spray with clear? Can it be sanded and polished out? Suggestions? Thanks.
either sand it down and repaint, or leave it, sandscratches are realy hard to remove from the color coats even after adding more coats.
ok, thanks
Newbie here! I was just wondering, about sanding? Should I sand the whole thing? Or just the hood(like in the video) thank you!!! ❤️ more power
The whole thing
The Scalemodeling Channel thank you so much! Ive been watching most of your videos about what to do with the models👌🏻 youve been a great help
@@TheScalemodelingChannel do you need to wear a mask when spraying? Plz answer😢
@@turbod4646 yes
What is the order of application if decals are involved? Do you not polish and just apply decals after paint then clear coat over the decals?
Decals are applied before clearcoating. Polishing is done after clearcoating
@@TheScalemodelingChannel thank you! I love the content BTW!
Incredible amount of time an effort. Im wondering why?? Do you submit for competitions?
Nope, just for my own satisfaction
Love your videos, they've been so helpful. Question...at what step does all the window and body trim occur? Is this after all color, clear and polishing steps or at some step in between? I'd think you'd want a clear coat over the trim right? I'm just unsure where the trim work fits in best. Thanks!
After, the trim is mostly flat black. If you do want it gloss. Then before clear of course ;)
Tom, thanks for the quick reply. One follow up...in the past I've had issues with smudges and fingerprints when doing trim and body detail work after all color and clear coating. After watching this video, I'm thinking the reason I've had that trouble is that I've never polished and waxed. Would you agree? Polishing and waxing will allow me to easily wipe away any smudging or fingerprints from my detail work...right? BTW, this is my wife's account...I'm Luke, not Michele. :-)
Polishing has nothing to do with smudges. It does help with the finger prints a little
Tom, If doing all the trim detail at very end after all the polishing, is there much risk of damage to the model with masking tape, if using quality masking tape such as Tamiya?
Luke Smith if all the pre paint prep work and proper curing time have been closely monitored and followed there should not be a risk at all
I was just wondering what the rotating base you were using to paint the body was, thanks
Tamiya spray stand
The Scalemodeling Channel thank you
How long does it normally take for you to finish a small car like this. From start to finish. Painting, assembly and detail.
I am building a car that is molded in red plastic. I used rattle cans to lay down 2 coats of gray primer followed by 3 coats of the final color, gloss white. My car looks pink! I'm sure I will have to strip the paint and start over, but what would you advise to prevent this from happening?
I have tried a silver base over the primer. That helped slightly. Not sure if its an actual fix though.
How do you clean your final paint coat (I use Tamiya) before applying clear
I blow it of with an air gun and or a tamiya anti static cleaning brush
Im new to the hobby. I was wondering if I have to sand down the clearcoat. I am not going for a realistic look. I just want the model to look good on my shelf. I am probably not going to pay too much attention to the orange peel. Most of my pre-built models have a little bit of orange peel. Thank you.
In that case. No
I use automotive spray can clear but Tamiya makes some very fine paints and primers
i have a hard time with yellow and black any ideas what i'm doing wrong thank you wayne
Hard to say. I have no idea what it looks like. And or what your interpretation of a hard time is?
I like to build race cars and they have many decals. I usually seal them under a clear coat, but not only would I be afraid to sand through the paint but to sand through the decals. Any advice?
If your afraid of sanding through the clear. Then your either sanding to aggressively. Or mot have enough clearcoat on
I'm curious if you've experimented the Tamiya clear coat over Rustoleum rattle cans and how did that work out for you
I have not. We dont have Rustoleum over here
Wouldn't do it. Rustoleum paint is enamel,even though their clears are lacquer.
Have you tried Meguiar's ultimate compound and polish?
I made the mistake of spraying in my shop thinking it wouldn't get everywhere. Well I was wrong. What paint booth do you recommend using paint can projects?
There are some listed in the description below the video ;)
What about the lower black panels?
If I wanted to add decals can I do this between clear coat #2 and clear coat #3? Or should I do them after #3 and add a #4 coat over them?
Either do it before clearcoating. Or between one of the coats. Though they do need to dry four a couple days before you put the decals on.
hey Tom, im building my first model and was just wondering if you personally clear coat the interior of the car as well or only the exterior
Kelvin Pak only the exterior
Awesome build, i would love to see you do the Tamiya Ferrari FXX so i can follow along, its one of my soon builds.
Hey Tom Did you Sand Smooth primer wit regular 1000 or did you wet sand ? Also do you wetsand or sand the paint usually in prep for clear specifically for this 1k clear?
Isaily De La Rosa just normal sanding.
I do not sand the color coat. Never!
The Scalemodeling Channel thank you , I was really confused , I'm in scale modeling group and some of them sand the colors ??
Maybe you should ask them, i personally would never do this as after you apply the clear coat you can still see the scratches you made by sanding the color coat.
that 6th avenue heartache?
Hey Nice Video. Keep up the great work!!! One question. I want to make a dirty model. Is it necessary to spray Clear Coat? And bth I subbed!!!
I don’t know much about weathering. But i thing its better to clearcoat it first. So you can remove waathering easier. Look up: lasercreation world, Plasmo and Luke Towan. They are good at weathering
Hey great video I just have a quick question, after removing the orange peel and polishing the car I can get a pretty reflective surface however there seems to be small scratches that I can't seem to get rid of, do you have any advice for this?
You will never be able to get rid of those. That is a downside to polishing
Polish with your finger
Hey quick question, I always polish with the Tamia compounds, and what I do is after I apply the clear I sand with 1500 grit, 6000 grit and 8000 grit, and whenever I use the compounds I get streaks no matter what, they resemble scratches on a disc, they’re extremely fine and I was wondering if there is something I should be doing differently or if I am way to meticulous, thanks man!
The jump from 1500 to 6000 is to big.
1500 is also very coarse. So try starting at 3600 then 4200, 5000 etc.
Use smaller steps and make sure to remove all the scratches from the previous step.
Also be sure to use a super soft non scratching cloth.
Lets say. You paper towel, it will scratch
Good day, if im going to use tamiya clear coat just what you did on this video when is the best time to apply the tamiya accent line before or after the clear coat? Thank you
after
The Scalemodeling Channel thank you its my first time to build a scale model
i see you use tamiya i love that paint to how about enamel
You should use Meguiars M205 polish. Its way better. Thats what I use to polish cars on the professional level. (Ferrari's, Lamborghini, etc..)
Also use isopropyl alcohol to remove the polish completely before waxing. And honestly using something like hydrosilex instead of wax is probably better for the scale and longer lasting more protective coating.
Have you triedrenaissance wax as a final?
Thank you for this well made tutorial. I am currently working on die-cast models in scale 1:18. Is there anything you would recommend to do differently than in this video, when painting a diecast model? For example I wonder if the diecast needs to be sanded before applying the filler, if I sand the filler (same as prime coat?) anyway... Does anyone have experience with this?
Sand the metal with 400 grit before you do anything else. The rest is the same
Clear coat. Is there a difference for the paints on plastics models.
A difference between what?
@@TheScalemodelingChannel Differences between2k and others. What's that about. Clear is clear right
William Aviles no man, that would be like saying a cheeseburger from mcdonalds is the same as one from burger king. Same name different product. Different finish and quality
is it necessary to use sandpaper? or you did it because you got some orange peel in the kit?
The kit does not have orangepeel. This is to help the primer and pain stick.
Really cool and helpful video mate!
I was really impressed by the result .... I have a Supra with 1K Clear too and I really want to try this out too! Sadly all the stickers are already on the car... can I remove them somehow or would they be sanded down too? (I have another decal sheet of the same car... )
+KBTDK Removing them would be a waste, maybe you can just clear over the decals. or just leave it for a next project. live and learn as they say ;)
So should I use automotive polishing compounds or Tamiya polishing compound?
Both will do just fine.
+The Scalemodeling Channel But I keep getting swirl marks on the paint...is there something crucial to get rid of that?
Higher grit sand paper, like 4000 or higher and maybe a swirl remover polishing compound.
is it okay to between the paint and clear stage to apply details like painting rubbers on bumper then clear over that im using acrylic tamiya
It is, but if you clear over it everything will be shiny, inlcuding the rubbers, so if that is what you want your good to go this route ;)
Hello! If I have a car that came with decals, should I apply first the decals and after that the clear coats? or viceversa? Thank you
If you have the patience, clear first. then decals. then clear again a final time.
excellent, so one coat first, then decals, finally other coat?
yes
All rigth I'll try, thanks for your help
+The Scalemodeling Channel I've already decal d it is that ok
Would this be a perfect process to fallow using Testors One coat Lacquer? Any insight would be appreciated
I never used Testors paints, so i can not give you a Yes or no, though i assume it would work the same way with most types and brands of spray paint
The Scalemodeling Channel awesome, so then I'll have to test run the coat on something. I appreciate your help, amazing job on this and that R-34 you did
you make it look so easy how do you do that when i do it it looks like crap
I’m showing you exactly how i do it😅
thank you so mush what a great job you did
I would be interested in seeing your process modified for enamels if such exists.
Exactly the same
Would this 3 part paint tutorial also apply to Aoshima-brand 1/24 kits?
Yes...
im working on a 1966 revell gt350h. in between what stage would i apply the decals? after paint (when the paint is sanded?) and ready for clear?
After paint. Before clear. No sanding
Do you have another form of communication? I had a couple of more questions 🙏🏻
Question: I'm working on my first model ever (your vids inspired me to give it a go :P) and I tried to remember your note at 4:30 about not polishing off the thin corners.... annnd i've rushed myself and done just that. I think only the colour layer has started to come off along - stopped as soon as I saw.
I plan on masking and respraying the affected panel/panels but just wondering if you have any tips/advice on doing so?
Should I sand back some of the clear on the rest of the panel with a lower grit then color + clear over the top of the whole thing or just try and focus my sprays on the one area?
I'm using tamiya cans only at this point
Thanks and keep up the great content :)
Thomas Ling i think it would be best to not fix it. Spray cans are pretty aggresive and can leave a very thick edge on the masked area. If you do want to give it a go. Sand the entire panel you want to repaint with 1200 grit sandpaper
Hi I'm completely new to scale modeling. Just want to ask if u clear then decal then clear, at which stage does sanding and polishing happen? I would imaging sanding after decal would destroy the decal....
If you have the time and patience, clear decal clear. If you dont have the patience just decal then clear.
You polish after you apply clearcoat and gave the clear a week to dry. Sanding after decals would indeed destroy them :P just like sanding after paint will destroy the paind. Only polish the clear!
thank you for the info.! still a bit confused...So if i have a big chunk of decal that got clear coated, and have orange peel on it, i should just sand around the decal( parts where there is no decal) and avoid the decal(not to destroy it)?
If the decal is clear you can sand it, as you are sanding the clear on top of the decal, not the decal itself, if it is not clear you can not sand the decal.
Why do u have to let the car dry for 5 days? I let each of my coats dry for more than an hour then let the hole thing dry over night is that, going to get a good paint job as the finish?
Sure, but if you want to polish it, the paint will not be hard/dry enough yet to be polished.
Hello, I have a question.
If you finished polishing the workpiece, does it need clear coat? (Flat/gloss/pearl)
No, polishing is done to the clear.
How come he has the air filter behind when painting
I've read that you need to wait a month before spraying ts-13... or spray within 10 minutes.
Is this true? Is really appreciate your input.
Not that i know of, as far as i know it cab be applied 15 minutes after, or the next day.
The Scalemodeling Channel Thanks for the reply. I really appreciate it.
All the info I read is from a decade ago. I'm guessing they changed their formula since then.
This might be a stupid question. If you are holding up the car and look at if can you tell the difference between the part you polished and the hard go get at places you couldn't really polish.
Yes, hey are pretty obvious
Do you polish after all clears you apply even the Zero paints 2K clear? Or just after the spray can 1K clears? One other clear related question as I have watched a ton of your videos. How do you decide what decals go under the clear and which ones go over? I noticed on some of your builds you do both so was just curious if you have a system to which go under or over or is it just a choice? Thanks for I put and tips.
+Brandon Drescher I only polish 1k spray can clear, the 2k clears usualy come out with a perfectly fine finish and shine.
Pretty much all the decals on the body go underneath the clear, except when i forget or when i was planning on painting the detail by hand.
Great thanks for the info I greatly appreciate it. Right now I use spray cans for my car but looking to get w good airbrush in the coming months. As far as paints for someone that's new to air brushing is Zero Paints or Gravity paints a better one to use? Or are they about the same? Figured since we can both in the states I would ask you since you've used both. Thbaks
They are both pretty much the same.
OK thanks again for the info.
does the sanding part is necessary if i repaint a 1:64 scale car , like Hotwheels/Matchbox ?
if you want the pint to stick better, yes.
@@TheScalemodelingChannel i mean after applying clear coat
Only if your not happy with the finish
question: I plan to use your method of painting on a future gundam build. I do want it shiny but do you think a three layer clear coat is necessary or can will i get by with just go with one to two?
Just try and see. If you like it with 1 or 2 stop. if not add more.
Question: what type of stand do you have for your car ?
tamiya spray stand
Thank you for the Info
I accidentally spark clear coat on the plastic windows . Any know how i can remove the foggyness on the windows ?? It wont come off
Which clearcoat have you used?
@@TheScalemodelingChannel uv resistant clear acrylic coating
@@jurado6335 what brand
I bought a Rustoleom Black Gloss paint and primer and a Rustoleoum clear coat. I got terrible results. Is it because of the company or is it because I suck at this? I sanded it down with 400 grit before doing anything also.
If I bought Tamiya Black gloss, primer and clear coat, do you think I could get better results?
Not sure in the quality of Rustoleum. though tamiya should be better as it is specificaly made for scalemodeling.
What kind of polishing cloth did you use?
Someone should make a 1/48 scale buffer.. would really add to the realism
It's called a dremel ;-)
could you give me the list of everything you used innthis video from part 1-4¿
I think that was a no...
can i use on any type of paint? any do's and donts?
I would suggest specific plastic paints or specific modeling paints.