Say hello to doing things the correct way! Some people get bamboozled by sales charlatans and then people like yourself end up redoing what they didn’t do right in the first place! I despise crap work. Your video shows how it is done with detail! Good job! I would put two coats of UGL cement paint over the blocks. This will keep the moisture off the inside walls and won’t interrupt your good work!
Why wait until the water has already breached to the INSIDE of the house where electricity is needed to pump it BACK OUT? Prevention is always best! Install an exterior curtain drain around the perimeter and make sure gutters and downspouts work and drain away from the house.
That works well when you initially build the house. However, if you're trying to retrofit a basement with a waterproofing system the exterior is far and away the most expensive way to do it because you have to deal with landscaping, decks, and sidewalks. In some cases removal and replacement of some or all of these things is necessary. The University of Minnesota has concluded that an interior, sub-slab system -- like we install -- offers an effective system and cost efficiencies that make it the best choice for retrofit.. BTW, we have also installed exterior solutions.
We have a vapor barrier that we install on some jobs when water is intruding from higher on the wall. Here in the upper midwest we mostly see water coming in at the joint where the floor and the wall meet or up through cracks in the floor. And, yes, we use 4" pipe.
The water flows through the holes in the concrete blocks, under our patented Diamond Drainage Board, over the footing, into the drainage field and into the rigid drain-tile.
much better to see it animated---and professionally narrated Terry
good job drilling weeping holes between the joints of blocks.....crucial!
Great seeing educational waterproofing videos from across the pond and dual discharge too..
Excellent and superbly done! Thank you!!
Say hello to doing things the correct way! Some people get bamboozled by sales charlatans and then people like yourself end up redoing what they didn’t do right in the first place! I despise crap work. Your video shows how it is done with detail! Good job! I would put two coats of UGL cement paint over the blocks. This will keep the moisture off the inside walls and won’t interrupt your good work!
Oh gosh finally figured out why my sump pump always has so much water even though we have a french drain!!
Why wait until the water has already breached to the INSIDE of the house where electricity is needed to pump it BACK OUT?
Prevention is always best! Install an exterior curtain drain around the perimeter and make sure gutters and downspouts work and drain away from the house.
That works well when you initially build the house. However, if you're trying to retrofit a basement with a waterproofing system the exterior is far and away the most expensive way to do it because you have to deal with landscaping, decks, and sidewalks. In some cases removal and replacement of some or all of these things is necessary. The University of Minnesota has concluded that an interior, sub-slab system -- like we install -- offers an effective system and cost efficiencies that make it the best choice for retrofit.. BTW, we have also installed exterior solutions.
is that totally the guy from 'how its made' ?? cool deal ! oh and nice vid too :)
:) No, our voiceover guy didn't do "How It's Made" ... but he appreciates the compliment.
You need a Vapor Barrier on the wall. And a 4" pipe. Don't cheap out
We have a vapor barrier that we install on some jobs when water is intruding from higher on the wall. Here in the upper midwest we mostly see water coming in at the joint where the floor and the wall meet or up through cracks in the floor. And, yes, we use 4" pipe.
How does the water from the joint get into the pipe?
The water flows through the holes in the concrete blocks, under our patented Diamond Drainage Board, over the footing, into the drainage field and into the rigid drain-tile.